Re: [EVDL] Testing Curtis controller on side of road?

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 27 Dec 2016 at 13:06, Jay Summet via EV wrote:

> Unfortunately, this probably means I have a motor short  It measured 0.1
> ohms, which seems a bit too low for an FB1-4001A.

Don't assume the worst yet!

I've never actually measured the armature resistance of a series motor, but 
that doesn't sound out of line to me. Assuming a 144v system,  I = E/R = 144 
/ 0.1 == 1440 amps, which is not an unreasonable starting current for a 
series motor.

Put the trans in neutral, set the brake, and (just to be sure) jack up the 
driving end of the vehicle so it can't possibly take off.  Bypass your 
controller and connect 6 or 12 volts directly to the motor (or rather 
through a fuse or breaker and contactor).  See if it starts and runs OK.  At 
that low a voltage, it's very unlikely to overspeed with no load.

Also check your traction circuit connections.  Especially if you have a high 
resistance (maybe corroded) connection to that fuse, or with the fuse itself 
os its clips, it could have heated up significantly while you were driving.  
When a fuse is already hot, a current surge such as you get with 
acceleration is more apt to blow it.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Testing Curtis controller on side of road?

[Jay Summet via EV]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was able to test the controller and it 
lights/controls the light bulb correctly under high voltage.


Unfortunately, this probably means I have a motor short  It measured 
0.1 ohms, which seems a bit too low for an FB1-4001A.


Jay

On 12/27/2016 10:49 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

12 volts might not be enough to energize the Curtis logic circuits properly.

An incandescent light bulb (40-150 Watt) is your friend.  First, connect it
across the controller input terminals.  If it lights at all, it should be
just for a short time.  (You are making sure the capacitors inside the
controller are discharged.)

Connect the bulb across the fuse holder and pull in the contactor.  It
should go bright for some seconds and then fade to black as the controller's
capacitors charge.  If it stays bright, the controller is most likely
shorted (either through to the motor, or across its input).

If that test passes, put the fuse in place.  Apply normal input voltage but
connect the bulb in place of the motor.  It should brighten and dim with the
throttle potentiometer position.  If not, you have a problem in the
controller.

Others with real EE background may have further suggestions for you.  Good
luck!

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Testing Curtis controller on side of road?

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

12 volts might not be enough to energize the Curtis logic circuits properly.

An incandescent light bulb (40-150 Watt) is your friend.  First, connect it 
across the controller input terminals.  If it lights at all, it should be 
just for a short time.  (You are making sure the capacitors inside the 
controller are discharged.)

Connect the bulb across the fuse holder and pull in the contactor.  It 
should go bright for some seconds and then fade to black as the controller's 
capacitors charge.  If it stays bright, the controller is most likely 
shorted (either through to the motor, or across its input).

If that test passes, put the fuse in place.  Apply normal input voltage but 
connect the bulb in place of the motor.  It should brighten and dim with the 
throttle potentiometer position.  If not, you have a problem in the 
controller.

Others with real EE background may have further suggestions for you.  Good 
luck!

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not 
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my 
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


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Re: [EVDL] Testing Curtis controller on side of road?

[Jay Summet via EV]

I disconnected my motor from the Curtis controller. I fed the HV lugs of the 
controller with 12 volts from the accessory battery.

The motor connection saw about 10 or 11 volts even with the throttle at zero 
and when I move the throttle all the way up the voltage was about the same.

I think this means that my Curtis controller is shorted open but if anybody 
could confirm if this test is valid or not at 12 volts  with no load other than 
a multi meter that would be appreciated.
Jay

On December 27, 2016 9:57:27 AM EST, Jay Summet via EV  
wrote:
>
>
>
>Subject: Blown HV fuse reasons?
>
>Driving my S10 conversion the EVAmerica kit I stepped on the gas while
>crossing a road and heard a pop. Navigated to the side of the road and
>it looks like my high voltage fuse has blown.
>
>I have had twenty thousand miles on this fuse so far. No changes
>recently.
>
>I figure either the fuse blew because it was old and vibrating. Or
>because my Curtis controller had a problem.
>
>I have a spare fuse in my glove box I could replace it with, but
>obviously I'm worried the new one will just blow again if it's a
>problem with my controller. It's not like I was flooring it or doing
>any type of driving I wouldn't normally do.
>
>Does anybody have suggestions for side of the road testing of a Curtis
>controller with a multi-meter?
>
>
>Jay
>Jay
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[EVDL] Testing Curtis controller on side of road?

[Jay Summet via EV]

Subject: Blown HV fuse reasons?

Driving my S10 conversion the EVAmerica kit I stepped on the gas while crossing 
a road and heard a pop. Navigated to the side of the road and it looks like my 
high voltage fuse has blown.

I have had twenty thousand miles on this fuse so far. No changes recently.

I figure either the fuse blew because it was old and vibrating. Or because my 
Curtis controller had a problem.

I have a spare fuse in my glove box I could replace it with, but obviously I'm 
worried the new one will just blow again if it's a problem with my controller. 
It's not like I was flooring it or doing any type of driving I wouldn't 
normally do.

Does anybody have suggestions for side of the road testing of a Curtis 
controller with a multi-meter?


Jay
Jay
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