Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-20 Thread Martin WINLOW via EV
8 years or UNLIMITED miles as of last week - retroactive and transferrable, 
too!  MW


On 20 Aug 2014, at 02:50, Dennis Miles via EV wrote:

 Peri,  Watch the video, You Tube title is:  eSamba EP 29  TESLA style
 fuses  The many parallel packs in series  depend upon each pack not having
 multiple failures, one or two in each pack are no problem there are about
 50 cells in each parallel group.  If a catastrophic failure should happen
 and a cascade of the cell fuses blow, the car just stops and you get the
 battery pack replaced under warranty the first 8 years or 100,000 miles.
 (in a TESLA)
 
 Dennis Lee Miles
 
 (*evprofes...@evprofessor.com evprofes...@evprofessor.com)*
 
 * Founder:**EV Tech. Institute Inc.*
 
 *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)*
 
 *Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are
 intelligent enough,  **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!*
 
 *  You Tube Video link:  http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss
 http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss *
 
 *NEW You Tube Video link: *http://youtu. be/Pz9-TZtySh8
 http://youtu.%20be/Pz9-TZtySh8
 
 
 On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 9:12 PM, Peri Hartman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:
 
 So, if you want individual fusible cells, then a bus bar on both terminals
 won't work.   One side can be spot welded but the other side needs the fuse
 wire - or something.  Not sure how that could be done in this model.  Does
 Tesla really have each cell fused?
 
 Part of my idea is to make each module easy to connect and swap out, if
 needed.  Also easy to pack into a tray.
 
 
 Peri
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: Dennis Miles via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 To: Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net; Electric Vehicle Discussion
 List ev@lists.evdl.org
 Sent: 19-Aug-14 5:29:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -
 
 The cells in the TESLA pack are a group in parallel then the parallel
 groups are wired in series for the desired voltage, The key to pack
 survival when a cell fails is a fusible link (Correctly sized short length
 of wire) in series with each and every cell then any malfunctioning cell
 is
 isolated when the link opens. (Reducing pack capacity about 2%.)
 
 Dennis Lee Miles
 
 (*evprofes...@evprofessor.com evprofes...@evprofessor.com)*
 
 * Founder: **EV Tech. Institute Inc.*
 
 *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)*
 
 *Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are
 intelligent enough, **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!*
 
 * You Tube Video link: http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss
 http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss *
 
 * NEW You Tube Video link: *http://youtu. be/Pz9-TZtySh8
 http://youtu.%20be/Pz9-TZtySh8
 
 
 On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 7:32 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:
 
  Peri Hartman via EV wrote:
 
  To take this to a traction pack, I would want to try a similar design
 where strings of cells are spot welded in parallel for the desired
 current load. As I understand it, you can put as many in parallel as
 you
 want and control them with a single BMS unit.
 
 
 Well... There are those that believe this, and it is certainly done.
 
 However, think about failure modes: Sooner or later, a cell will fail.
 What happens if one of the cells in parallel shorts? All the rest will
 dump
 all their stored energy into that one shorted cell. That is very likely
 to
 result in a burst cell or even a fire. And packed like this, once one
 cell
 starts burning, it can set the rest on fire.
 
 When laptop manufacturers connected their cells directly in parallel,
 there were some dramatic failures and fires. Since then, reputable
 manufacturers are using cells with *internal* fuses and safety devices.
 Hobbyists and el-cheapo manufacturers aren't likely to use such cells.
 
 --
 The principal defect in a storage battery is its modesty. It does not
 spark, creak, groan, nor slow down under overload. It does not rotate.
 It works where it is, and will silently work up to the point of
 destruction without making any audible or visible signs of distress.
 -- Electrical Review, 1902
 --
 Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
 
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-20 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Dave,

I have a pack like that, 16 cells, 48V.  It is heavy and not packed tight
as it uses the plastic frames available for these cells.  But the threaded
holes in the stamped end plates seem to be well made and can take real
torque.  If they are nickel that explains their high cost.  I always
assumed they were copper with Ni plating.

Weight, cost, and low energy and pack density are probably cons, but maybe
the plastc boxed CALB and TS, etc. are similar?  I guess nothing is as
dense as the laptop style cells.

The small packs I have are not specified well, so I can't compare datasheet
items.


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 10:35 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On 19 Aug 2014 at 21:18, Jay Summet via EV wrote:

  The contact/connection may not be as good as bolt on terminals, but
  for 18650 cells you could probably get away with it without excessive
  force. Flashlights do it all the time...

 Does anyone here have experience with the screw-terminal 38140 cells
 offered
 by Headway (and perhaps some of their less well known Chinese competitors)?
 Their vendors even offer complete kits with hardware for grouping and
 linking cells.

 But then you might be falling back into the problems of loosening and
 corroding connections, I suppose.

 They also seem to be a bit more expensive per watt-hour than some other
 LiFePO4 cells, but that might be because I don't know where to look.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-20 Thread Lee Hart via EV

Jay Summet via EV wrote:

The eSamba guy is using a piece of fuse wire to each cell, so that
if a single cell shorts out, the fuse wire blows...


That's a good plan. Do you know how he tested it, to be sure the fuse 
wire is sized right to actually work?

--
The principal defect in a storage battery is its modesty. It does not
spark, creak, groan, nor slow down under overload. It does not rotate.
It works where it is, and will silently work up to the point of
destruction without making any audible or visible signs of distress.
-- Electrical Review, 1902
--
Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-20 Thread Lee Hart via EV

Jay Summet via EV wrote:

Why not pressure fit?  ...Flashlights do it all the time...


Think about how many times you've had bad connections and flickering 
light, had to shake it or clean the contacts to get it to work.


You can make a good electrical connection with pressure alone, but it 
takes a *lot* of pressure.


Corrosion is another problem. The contact surface is completely exposed, 
and subject to moisture, dirt, and the resulting corrosion. It would 
help to gold plate the connections, but who would want to spend the money?

--
The principal defect in a storage battery is its modesty. It does not
spark, creak, groan, nor slow down under overload. It does not rotate.
It works where it is, and will silently work up to the point of
destruction without making any audible or visible signs of distress.
-- Electrical Review, 1902
--
Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-20 Thread Jay Summet via EV


On 08/20/2014 10:22 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
 Jay Summet via EV wrote:
 The eSamba guy is using a piece of fuse wire to each cell, so that
 if a single cell shorts out, the fuse wire blows...
 
 That's a good plan. Do you know how he tested it, to be sure the fuse
 wire is sized right to actually work?

I believe he had a discharge tester and turned up the amps output until
the wire flashedaround 10 amps

Jay
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-20 Thread Michael Ross via EV
I believe he also used insulated wire to contain any molten copper beads
from getting loose.


On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 12:29 PM, Jay Summet via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:



 On 08/20/2014 10:22 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
  Jay Summet via EV wrote:
  The eSamba guy is using a piece of fuse wire to each cell, so that
  if a single cell shorts out, the fuse wire blows...
 
  That's a good plan. Do you know how he tested it, to be sure the fuse
  wire is sized right to actually work?

 I believe he had a discharge tester and turned up the amps output until
 the wire flashedaround 10 amps

 Jay
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-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Martin WINLOW via EV
Cor,  It wasn't the losses I was aghast at it was the thought of having a 
mini-stove going in my battery box!

I was also wondering if the easiest way of measuring the cell terminal 
connection resistance would be to disconnect the pack and just put a large 
resistor across it sufficient to draw half an amp or so but what ever it was, 
very carefully measure the current flow (and keep monitoring it in case it 
changes as the resistor value changes with heat) and then measure your voltage 
drops across each connection.  Much the same as other have suggested, just a 
bit more 'regulated', maybe.  MW


On 19 Aug 2014, at 17:15, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:

 Martin,
 Delivering 300A at 120V is 36,000 Watts, so losing 350W in the wiring
 and terminal connections means only 1% loss in the grand scheme of
 things.
 A single traffic light turning red in front of you so you have to stop
 and again accelerate up to speed is likely a bigger difference in the
 efficiency of a trip...
 
 Cor van de Water
 Chief Scientist
 Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
 Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
 Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Lee Hart via EV
 Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 9:08 AM
 To: Martin WINLOW; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -
 
 Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
 Depends on your current. Typically I would say in the order of
 magnitude of 0.1 mOhm (milliOhm) because a 300A current will then
 give 30mV drop, which produces 300A x 0.03V = 9 Watt of power loss
 as heat.
 
 Martin WINLOW via EV wrote:
 At EVERY connection?  In a 120V lithium pack that 's 38 x 9 =
 nearly 350W of heat!
 
 No; Cor has it right. And, 0.1 milliohms is a *good* connection. You 
 will discover that it is damnably difficult to make a connection that 
 good with aluminum terminals!
 
 -- 
 You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change
 something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.
   -- R. Buckminster Fuller
 --
 Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Jan Steinman via EV
From: Roland via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 
 Attach a milliamp meter shunting that one link that was torque...

It seems to me that what you mean is a milliVOLT meter.

A milliammeter has a low internal resistance that can give you errors if you 
don't have a good connection between it and the test circuit.

A millivoltmeter has high internal resistance, which means it's going to be 
immune to orders-of-magnitude changes in its probe contact resistance, albeit 
somewhat balanced by greater sensitivity to electrical noise.

 Court challenges over cow-share programs and regulatory efforts to further 
restrict the availability of raw milk have met heavy consumer resistance, in 
spite of biased media coverage that merely reports government propaganda. -- 
Ron Schmid
 Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op 
 (Send email to qu...@bytesmiths.com to get a random quote, or 
quo...@bytesmiths.com to get 50 random quotes. Put a word in the Subject line 
to filter for that word.)

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Michael Ross via EV
The website is now working.  I forgot to save the changes.

I am not branching out to more services.  Better for me to learn how to use
Google and whatever new stuff they have added.  I used Google Picasaweb for
years without any trouble.  The images I linked to were migrated to G+.  I
am guessing that I am looking at them logged in as me, and the URL is
different when others try to go there.  I need to figure out how to view G+
as not me.


Peri has been able to see this now:
https://sites.google.com/site/michaeleross/misc


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 4:44 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On 19 Aug 2014 at 15:57, Michael Ross via EV wrote:

   I don't have another file service.

 The following are not official EVDL recommendations, but rather my personal
 suggestion.  They used to be official EVDL recommendations, but a few
 people
 found things to gripe about with them.  Now my official recommendation is
 to
 see the Wikipedia lists of filesharing services.  But I personally have
 used
 the 3 below and have been satisfied with them within the limits and
 cautions
 stated on each one.

 I like imagebin http://imagebin.org/ pretty well.  However, paranoid
 browsers have fits over it, because apparently a few slimy users have
 figured out how to post malware there.  (My pix there do not have malware.)
 It requires no signup or login.  Just upload what you have and anyone can
 view it.  It has unobtrusive ads, if any.  You need javascript to post, but
 not to view photos. One big downside of imagebin is that your upload is
 temporary.  Their database holds 5000 photos, and new ones push older ones
 out.  Typical life of your photo is around 2 weeks.

 tinypic.com also requires no signup or login, either to upload or view.
 However, I think its ads are probably more aggressive.  (I don't know, I
 use
 various ad-blocking schemes on my computer, so I see none.)  It also
 requires javascript to post and view.  Photos on tinypic eventually vanish
 if they're not accessed now and then.  I just checked a photo I uploaded
 there in 2008, and it's still online, but a video clip I sent around 2002
 is
 gone.

 uploadhouse.com is a third site which requires no membership or logins,
 either to upload or view.  You do need javascipt to upload, but not to view
 the uploaded pictures. I don't know what the ads are like there either, but
 they do push their own hosting service pretty hard.  Also, make sure you
 get
 the URL right, because they allow (often VERY) NSFW pictures.

 Hope this helps.  Sorry for taking up bandwidth, but it's for EVDL
 business.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell
(919) 513-0418 Desk

michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread EVDL Administrator via EV
On 19 Aug 2014 at 15:48, Willie2 via EV wrote:

 Please inform me if my Google+ page is not visible to all:
 https://plus.google.com/102434734002949174273/posts
 
 Perhaps one has to be logged on to Google?  I didn't think so.
 

 I had no trouble seeing your page, and I'm not logged in to Google.

When I place the cursor over the pictures, a link to Willie McKernie's 
photos pops up.  If I left-click on that link (presumably to see more 
photos of that item), I get your entire photo album, not just the item 
pictured.  

If I right-click on the link and try to open it in a new tab (the way I 
prefer), nothing is viewable without a login.   Go figure.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Willie2 via EV

On 08/19/2014 04:00 PM, Michael Ross via EV wrote:

The website is now working.  I forgot to save the changes.

I am not branching out to more services.  Better for me to learn how to use
Google and whatever new stuff they have added.  I used Google Picasaweb for
years without any trouble.  The images I linked to were migrated to G+.  I
am guessing that I am looking at them logged in as me, and the URL is
different when others try to go there.  I need to figure out how to view G+
as not me.

http://gphangouts.com/googleplusurl.html

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Sorry, the BMS on this pack is hanging outside the pack.  There is an image
of another pack (32120 cells)  that has the BMS mounted inside its wrapping.

The pack is meant to be used by eScooters and such.  As these things go it
was very economical and seems to be functioning very well - except a crappy
spade connection between the pack and BMS.  The cost with air shipping
included was $450.  20Ah, 48VDC nominal LiFePO4. This included the BMS, a
6A charger, pack and a carrying bag.  The mass is 9kg.

Here is a link to a torn apart Tesla pack:
http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/21850-NHTSA-Opened-Up-the-Model-S-Battery-Pack-Pics

Here is an image of guys welding batteries:
http://bioage.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/welding2.jpg


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 5:47 PM, Michael Ross michael.e.r...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I think I gave the URL to view when viewed as me logged in as me.  I
 haven't sorted out how to get the public URL.  I think it used to be
 obvious, but I have lost the method :-(

 This battery was purchased through Alibaba from China.  The cells are
 18650 size LiFePO4.

 I believe I saw in image of a Tesla pack opened up and it had multiple
 thousands of these in it.  (I have head they use 6000 or 700 laptop cells)
   I am sorry I don't recall where I saw that.  Maybe EVTV?

 Seems like welding is the only way to get the sort of reliability you need
 if there are no threaded connections.   Clamping, as with funky old D cell
 flashlights, is clearly not the way to go.

 Yes it is a BMS placed inside the pack.  Then they duct taped and hot
 glued their way to a reasonably presentable pack.

 I did not build this myself - that is what I was wondering - if anyone
 here has tried this sort of thing.  I really don't think it would be too
 difficult once you knew the recipe.

 Here is another link that might take you to an album of battery images:

 https://plus.google.com/photos/100767276460953028406/albums/5857562724939978177?banner=pwa

 My intention is that it be visible to anyone, and it says that is so, but
 I may still be sharing the wrong URL.  I will put a few more images at the
 website.


 On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 4:53 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
 ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On 19 Aug 2014 at 16:10, Michael Ross via EV wrote:

  This should be viewable by anyone
  https://sites.google.com/site/michaeleross/misc

 This one works fine for me.  (I do have javascript enabled for Google; it
 might be required for this page.)

 Thanks for setting it up!  The two snipurl links said they were invalid.

 It's an interesting battery.  I take it that's some kind of BMS top right
 in
 the first photo?

 What kind of cells are they?  I mean what size, chemistry, brand?  Did you
 assemble the battery yourself?  How did you fasten the links?

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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 --
 Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
 happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
 *Dalai Lama *

 Tell me what it is you plan to do
 With your one wild and precious life?
 Mary Oliver, The summer day.

 To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
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 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

 A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
 *Warren Buffet*

 Michael E. Ross
 (919) 550-2430 Land
 (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google
 Phone
 (919) 631-1451 Cell
 (919) 513-0418 Desk

 michael.e.r...@gmail.com
 michael.e.r...@gmail.com





-- 
Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
*Dalai Lama *

Tell me what it is you plan to do
With your one wild and precious life?
Mary Oliver, The summer day.

To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 550-2430 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell
(919) 513-0418 Desk

michael.e.r...@gmail.com
michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Jay Summet via EV
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1



On 08/19/2014 07:54 PM, Ben Apollonio via EV wrote:
 True enough, but if a 200Ah cell fails shorted, it still has 200Ah
 to dump all by itself, which is likely to be equally catastrophic.
 I think the probability of occurrence is higher with 200 1Ah cells
 than with 1 200Ah cell, but the end result is the same.
 
 On the other hand, if you DO take precautions to isolate the
 parallel cells in a fault, you can limit the total energy released
 to the amount stored in a single cell (or a handful of small
 cells).  If I recall correctly, Tesla does this, including
 firewalls between modules, which is how they can get away with
 using 1000's of cells in a single pack.
 
 -Ben

The eSamba guy is using a piece of fuse wire to each cell, so that
if a single cell shorts out, the fuse wire blows. I believe the
assumption is that the then isolated cell won't be able to start
ITSELF on fire if it is not drawing current from all the other
parallel cells  I'm not sure if that is actually the case or not

Jay
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Peri Hartman via EV
So, if you want individual fusible cells, then a bus bar on both 
terminals won't work.   One side can be spot welded but the other side 
needs the fuse wire - or something.  Not sure how that could be done in 
this model.  Does Tesla really have each cell fused?


Part of my idea is to make each module easy to connect and swap out, if 
needed.  Also easy to pack into a tray.


Peri

-- Original Message --
From: Dennis Miles via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
To: Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net; Electric Vehicle Discussion 
List ev@lists.evdl.org

Sent: 19-Aug-14 5:29:00 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -


The cells in the TESLA pack are a group in parallel then the parallel
groups are wired in series for the desired voltage, The key to pack
survival when a cell fails is a fusible link (Correctly sized short 
length
of wire) in series with each and every cell then any malfunctioning 
cell is

isolated when the link opens. (Reducing pack capacity about 2%.)

Dennis Lee Miles

(*evprofes...@evprofessor.com evprofes...@evprofessor.com)*

* Founder: **EV Tech. Institute Inc.*

*Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)*

*Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are
intelligent enough, **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!*

* You Tube Video link: http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss
http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss *

* NEW You Tube Video link: *http://youtu. be/Pz9-TZtySh8
http://youtu.%20be/Pz9-TZtySh8


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 7:32 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org 
wrote:



 Peri Hartman via EV wrote:

 To take this to a traction pack, I would want to try a similar 
design

 where strings of cells are spot welded in parallel for the desired
 current load. As I understand it, you can put as many in parallel as 
you

 want and control them with a single BMS unit.



 Well... There are those that believe this, and it is certainly done.

 However, think about failure modes: Sooner or later, a cell will 
fail.
 What happens if one of the cells in parallel shorts? All the rest 
will dump
 all their stored energy into that one shorted cell. That is very 
likely to
 result in a burst cell or even a fire. And packed like this, once one 
cell

 starts burning, it can set the rest on fire.

 When laptop manufacturers connected their cells directly in parallel,
 there were some dramatic failures and fires. Since then, reputable
 manufacturers are using cells with *internal* fuses and safety 
devices.
 Hobbyists and el-cheapo manufacturers aren't likely to use such 
cells.


 --
 The principal defect in a storage battery is its modesty. It does not
 spark, creak, groan, nor slow down under overload. It does not 
rotate.

 It works where it is, and will silently work up to the point of
 destruction without making any audible or visible signs of distress.
 -- Electrical Review, 1902
 --
 Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Jay Summet via EV
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1



On 08/19/2014 09:12 PM, Peri Hartman via EV wrote:
 So, if you want individual fusible cells, then a bus bar on both 
 terminals won't work.   One side can be spot welded but the other
 side needs the fuse wire - or something.  Not sure how that could
 be done in this model.  Does Tesla really have each cell fused?
 
 Part of my idea is to make each module easy to connect and swap
 out, if needed.  Also easy to pack into a tray.
 

Why not pressure fit?  Have a whole bunch of springs mounted on a
board spaced appropriately for your cells. You'd probably need a lot
of screws to hold the board flat (unless it was an especially thick
and rigid material).

You would still have to solder/weld a wire/fuse to each spring..but
you could do that at high temperatures without risking cell damage.

The contact/connection may not be as good as bolt on terminals, but
for 18650 cells you could probably get away with it without excessive
force. Flashlights do it all the time(I know, I know...lower
current...)

Jay
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Dennis Miles via EV
Peri,  Watch the video, You Tube title is:  eSamba EP 29  TESLA style
fuses  The many parallel packs in series  depend upon each pack not having
multiple failures, one or two in each pack are no problem there are about
50 cells in each parallel group.  If a catastrophic failure should happen
and a cascade of the cell fuses blow, the car just stops and you get the
battery pack replaced under warranty the first 8 years or 100,000 miles.
(in a TESLA)

Dennis Lee Miles

(*evprofes...@evprofessor.com evprofes...@evprofessor.com)*

* Founder:**EV Tech. Institute Inc.*

*Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)*

*Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are
intelligent enough,  **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!*

*  You Tube Video link:  http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss
http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss *

*NEW You Tube Video link: *http://youtu. be/Pz9-TZtySh8
http://youtu.%20be/Pz9-TZtySh8


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 9:12 PM, Peri Hartman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:

 So, if you want individual fusible cells, then a bus bar on both terminals
 won't work.   One side can be spot welded but the other side needs the fuse
 wire - or something.  Not sure how that could be done in this model.  Does
 Tesla really have each cell fused?

 Part of my idea is to make each module easy to connect and swap out, if
 needed.  Also easy to pack into a tray.


 Peri

 -- Original Message --
 From: Dennis Miles via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 To: Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net; Electric Vehicle Discussion
 List ev@lists.evdl.org
 Sent: 19-Aug-14 5:29:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

  The cells in the TESLA pack are a group in parallel then the parallel
 groups are wired in series for the desired voltage, The key to pack
 survival when a cell fails is a fusible link (Correctly sized short length
 of wire) in series with each and every cell then any malfunctioning cell
 is
 isolated when the link opens. (Reducing pack capacity about 2%.)

 Dennis Lee Miles

 (*evprofes...@evprofessor.com evprofes...@evprofessor.com)*

 * Founder: **EV Tech. Institute Inc.*

 *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)*

 *Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are
 intelligent enough, **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!*

 * You Tube Video link: http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss
 http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss *

 * NEW You Tube Video link: *http://youtu. be/Pz9-TZtySh8
 http://youtu.%20be/Pz9-TZtySh8


 On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 7:32 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:

   Peri Hartman via EV wrote:

   To take this to a traction pack, I would want to try a similar design
  where strings of cells are spot welded in parallel for the desired
  current load. As I understand it, you can put as many in parallel as
 you
  want and control them with a single BMS unit.


  Well... There are those that believe this, and it is certainly done.

  However, think about failure modes: Sooner or later, a cell will fail.
  What happens if one of the cells in parallel shorts? All the rest will
 dump
  all their stored energy into that one shorted cell. That is very likely
 to
  result in a burst cell or even a fire. And packed like this, once one
 cell
  starts burning, it can set the rest on fire.

  When laptop manufacturers connected their cells directly in parallel,
  there were some dramatic failures and fires. Since then, reputable
  manufacturers are using cells with *internal* fuses and safety devices.
  Hobbyists and el-cheapo manufacturers aren't likely to use such cells.

  --
  The principal defect in a storage battery is its modesty. It does not
  spark, creak, groan, nor slow down under overload. It does not rotate.
  It works where it is, and will silently work up to the point of
  destruction without making any audible or visible signs of distress.
  -- Electrical Review, 1902
  --
  Lee Hart's EV projects are at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-19 Thread Dennis Miles via EV
Flashlights only have a current draw of half an amp. The 18650 cells are
typically used at FIVE amps. And I often have to shake my flashlights to
clean the contacts before they attain normal brightness. (That indicates
they a corroding.) About two years ago I recall seeing a spot-welding
system and strapping for the 18650 cells, the welder was only about $200
and for building a $7,000 to $10,000 pack, it would seem a reasonable price
to pay. I haven't searched for it yet but it had a video so searching on
You Tube for spot weld batteries might lead to a possible solution...


Dennis Lee Miles

(*evprofes...@evprofessor.com evprofes...@evprofessor.com)*

* Founder:**EV Tech. Institute Inc.*

*Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)*

*Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are
intelligent enough,  **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!*

*  You Tube Video link:  http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss
http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss *

*NEW You Tube Video link: *http://youtu. be/Pz9-TZtySh8
http://youtu.%20be/Pz9-TZtySh8


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 10:35 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV 
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 On 19 Aug 2014 at 21:18, Jay Summet via EV wrote:

  The contact/connection may not be as good as bolt on terminals, but
  for 18650 cells you could probably get away with it without excessive
  force. Flashlights do it all the time...

 Does anyone here have experience with the screw-terminal 38140 cells
 offered
 by Headway (and perhaps some of their less well known Chinese competitors)?
 Their vendors even offer complete kits with hardware for grouping and
 linking cells.

 But then you might be falling back into the problems of loosening and
 corroding connections, I suppose.

 They also seem to be a bit more expensive per watt-hour than some other
 LiFePO4 cells, but that might be because I don't know where to look.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-17 Thread Martin WINLOW via EV
What, as a matter of interest, is an acceptable amount of resistance in a 
battery or cell terminal connection?  MW


On 17 Aug 2014, at 00:48, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

 On 16 Aug 2014 at 14:04, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
 
 The technique has been described many times on the EVDL. It must be in 
 the archives somewhere. Before I type it all in yet again, maybe we can 
 find it?
 
 Here's one method.
 
 http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html#nabble-td4657626|a4657642
 
 Just to be clear, he means you should measure voltage drop across the 
 intercell link cable or strap, NOT across the cell or battery itself!
 
 I usually measure the voltage drop from the center of the battery post to 
 the clamp itself.  That's easy with lead batteries - there's lots of post 
 area for contact.  I don't know whether that's the case with your lithium 
 cells.  But the principle remains - pass a known current through the 
 connection and measure the voltage drop.   Calculate the resistance (if you 
 care) with Ohm's law.  Or just look for connections with exceptionally high 
 voltage drop.
 
 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-17 Thread Martin WINLOW via EV
At EVERY connection?  In a 120V lithium pack that 's 38 x 9 = nearly 350W of 
heat!  Sounds a lot and I'm pretty sure my battery box didn't ever get *that* 
hot!  But then, I suppose that would only be under acceleration... my normal 
cruising current was less than half that but that's still 150W.  Still sounds a 
bit high?   MW


On 17 Aug 2014, at 09:07, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:

 Depends on your current.
 Typically I would say in the order of magnitude of 0.1 mOhm (milliOhm)
 because a 300A current will then give 30mV drop, which produces
 300A x 0.03V = 9 Watt of power loss as heat.
 
 Cor van de Water
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Martin WINLOW
 
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -
 
 What, as a matter of interest, is an acceptable amount of resistance in
 a battery or cell terminal connection?  MW
 
 

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-16 Thread Chris Meier via EV
Try an IR-Blue, I have one, and have used it at varying distances.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ir-blue


On August 16, 2014 2:13:23 AM CDT, Martin WINLOW via EV ev@lists.evdl.org 
wrote:
Dan,

You should check the instructions for the laser thermometer - I expect
that, like mine, it recommends a maximum reading distance (from object
of interest to instrument) in single figure inches!  MW


On 15 Aug 2014, at 02:32, Michael Ross via EV wrote:

 I am with Jan.
 
 The laser thermometers are averaging over the whole patch you see lit
up
 and they are not hugely accurate because of it.  If the patch is
larger
 from being farther away or not circular because it is on an angle -
it will
 not report what you are hoping for. They are best for shining inside
a
 uniform container, oven, furnace, etc. Or if at a wall, then you need
to
 take a series of readings.
 
 Imagine on one terminal you slide off to one side and average in some
 temperature from the top of the battery case.  Or you have to get
very
 close to one and far from another, and so on.
 
 Can you share what make and model of thermometer you are using?
 
 Mike
 
 
 On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 7:21 PM, David Nelson via EV
ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:
 
 If this is a change then I would investigate. I have had my pack in
 for over 4 years and have not had the issue you and others have had
 and my pack isn't exactly closed to moisture and dust. I have 40
 TS-LFP100AHA cells in a 2p20s arrangement. Because the BMS I used to
 use attached to the heads of the terminal bolts I used brass bolts
 since they are much easier to drill and tap threads in. This also
 meant that I could assemble the pack and torque the bolts
independent
 of the BMS connections so they could not interfere with any
 connections. Before assembling my pack I wire brushed all the
 terminals to shine them up. I did this with NOALOX on the terminals
 and SS wire brush so that the NOALOX would seal the metal as soon as
 possible. I also tapped all the terminal holes again, using NOALOX
on
 the tap though this was probably way overkill. I did find some
 terminals that didn't get tapped all the way down. I then put NOALOX
 on the bolt threads before assembling. This was mostly so that the
 soft Al and Cu terminals wouldn't gall up at all. I used bronze lock
 washers, too. I have had no terminals come loose or get warm.
 
 Some may say that what I did was a waste of time but they can't
 counter the results. It just works and I'm glad. LiFePO4 has been
much
 simpler than lead acid in many ways. If I were you I would clean all
 the terminals using a similar process. If I were to do it over, and
I
 have on small 4-8 cell packs, I would use NO-OX-ID A SPECIAL
because
 it doesn't seem to get sticky over time like the NOALOX does.
 
 On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Danpatgal via EV
ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:
 I am using 38x130 ah CALBs in my Lectric Leopard and have had a too
hot
 (
 40C) warning on my BMS come on a few times in the last month or so.
 Today,
 after a longer stretch of accelerating uphill to home, I checked
some of
 the
 battery posts.  Measuring with a laser sensor, several of them were
 around
 33C , in a grouping, maybe 6 or 8 posts adjacent on the most
positive
 side
 of my pack.  Posts just a few cells more negative were much cooler,
maybe
 around 26C or cooler.
 
 I checked the bolts to make sure they were tight, and didn't notice
any
 real
 problem with the connections being loose.  My only other thought is
that
 perhaps (as has been discussed in other threads), these connections
have
 corroded over time ... adding a little resistance layer (I didn't
 initially
 polish or use Noalox on those) that is now finally heating up.  I
am also
 using the original copper straps with steels M8 bolts.
 
 Are others noticing this kind of heat with the lithium cell
terminals?
 Aside from just cleaning the terminals and putting on some Noalox,
might
 there be other things to do?  I installed these in Sep. 2012, so
they are
 not quite two years in service.
 
 Thanks - Dan
 

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-16 Thread Lee Hart via EV

Danpatgal via EV wrote:

I have on my to-do list to clean up the connections.  With the BMS modules on
there it's just a pain and I have to be very careful (I know - if I had done
it at the beginning ...).


You can measure the resistance of the connections without taking them 
apart. Then only clean the ones that have a higher-than-normal 
resistance. All you need is a normal multimeter and a source of a known 
current (like your charger).


The technique has been described many times on the EVDL. It must be in 
the archives somewhere. Before I type it all in yet again, maybe we can 
find it?


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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-16 Thread EVDL Administrator via EV
On 16 Aug 2014 at 14:04, Lee Hart via EV wrote:

 The technique has been described many times on the EVDL. It must be in 
 the archives somewhere. Before I type it all in yet again, maybe we can 
 find it?

Here's one method.

http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html#nabble-td4657626|a4657642

Just to be clear, he means you should measure voltage drop across the 
intercell link cable or strap, NOT across the cell or battery itself!

I usually measure the voltage drop from the center of the battery post to 
the clamp itself.  That's easy with lead batteries - there's lots of post 
area for contact.  I don't know whether that's the case with your lithium 
cells.  But the principle remains - pass a known current through the 
connection and measure the voltage drop.   Calculate the resistance (if you 
care) with Ohm's law.  Or just look for connections with exceptionally high 
voltage drop.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-16 Thread Jan Steinman via EV
 From: Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 
 You can measure the resistance of the connections without taking them 
 apart... All you need is a normal multimeter and a source of a known 
 current (like your charger)... The technique has been described many times on 
 the EVDL...

Pump a fixed known current through the battery, and measure the voltage drop 
between the terminal and the post. Set your DVM to the lowest range, where you 
can measure millivolts.

If you pump the current through your entire pack, you can quickly move 
post-to-post, checking them all. Call out the millivolt drop to an assistant 
for recording.

 Nothing wastes more energy than worrying. The longer one carries a 
problem, the heavier it gets. Don't take things too seriously. Live a life of 
serenity, not a life of regrets. -- Douglass Pagels
 Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op 

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-15 Thread Danpatgal via EV
I have on my to-do list to clean up the connections.  With the BMS modules on
there it's just a pain and I have to be very careful (I know - if I had done
it at the beginning ...).

I noticed the temperature first while driving from the BMS (Lithimate Lite)
telling me one cell was getting over 40C.  What was odd was I still got it
on a cooler day (in the 70s), so it made me suspect the connections.  So I
checked a few of the bolt heads with my fingers for comparisons and noticed
a few much warmer than others (none hot to the touch, just very warm
instead of just warm or cool).  I used the laser temperature gun just for
some idea on the number ... and my fingers didn't lie ;).  Those few were
4-5 C (10-12 F) warmer than the rest.  

I don't want to make a mountain out of a molehill, just wondered if there
might be others having similar issues with CALBs that I should be aware of
(bolts, straps, terminals ...) other than just a layer of corrosion on the
terminals.

Thanks for the comments - Dan



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http://www.evalbum.com/3854

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-14 Thread Jan Steinman via EV
 From: Danpatgal via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 
 ... several of them were around
 33C, in a grouping, maybe 6 or 8 posts adjacent on the most positive side
 of my pack.  Posts just a few cells more negative were much cooler, maybe
 around 26C or cooler.

That doesn't seem like much!

In fact, that amount could be explained by emissivity error of the tempgun. 
I've seen them shoot the same mercury-thermometer temperature as much as 10C 
different between reflective and non-reflective surfaces! Tempguns are 
notoriously wild, unless you're sure you're measuring things with *exactly* the 
same emissivity.

I'd try it with a contact thermometer before getting too concerned. And then, I 
wouldn't worry if the differential was 10C or less.

 Compared to those on pasteurized milk, children who received raw certified 
milk had better weight gain and greater protection against rachitis. -- Ron 
Schmid
 Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op 
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quo...@bytesmiths.com to get 50 random quotes. Put a word in the Subject line 
to filter for that word.)

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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-14 Thread Michael Ross via EV
I am with Jan.

The laser thermometers are averaging over the whole patch you see lit up
and they are not hugely accurate because of it.  If the patch is larger
from being farther away or not circular because it is on an angle - it will
not report what you are hoping for. They are best for shining inside a
uniform container, oven, furnace, etc. Or if at a wall, then you need to
take a series of readings.

Imagine on one terminal you slide off to one side and average in some
temperature from the top of the battery case.  Or you have to get very
close to one and far from another, and so on.

Can you share what make and model of thermometer you are using?

Mike


On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 7:21 PM, David Nelson via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:

 If this is a change then I would investigate. I have had my pack in
 for over 4 years and have not had the issue you and others have had
 and my pack isn't exactly closed to moisture and dust. I have 40
 TS-LFP100AHA cells in a 2p20s arrangement. Because the BMS I used to
 use attached to the heads of the terminal bolts I used brass bolts
 since they are much easier to drill and tap threads in. This also
 meant that I could assemble the pack and torque the bolts independent
 of the BMS connections so they could not interfere with any
 connections. Before assembling my pack I wire brushed all the
 terminals to shine them up. I did this with NOALOX on the terminals
 and SS wire brush so that the NOALOX would seal the metal as soon as
 possible. I also tapped all the terminal holes again, using NOALOX on
 the tap though this was probably way overkill. I did find some
 terminals that didn't get tapped all the way down. I then put NOALOX
 on the bolt threads before assembling. This was mostly so that the
 soft Al and Cu terminals wouldn't gall up at all. I used bronze lock
 washers, too. I have had no terminals come loose or get warm.

 Some may say that what I did was a waste of time but they can't
 counter the results. It just works and I'm glad. LiFePO4 has been much
 simpler than lead acid in many ways. If I were you I would clean all
 the terminals using a similar process. If I were to do it over, and I
 have on small 4-8 cell packs, I would use NO-OX-ID A SPECIAL because
 it doesn't seem to get sticky over time like the NOALOX does.

 On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Danpatgal via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:
  I am using 38x130 ah CALBs in my Lectric Leopard and have had a too hot
 (
  40C) warning on my BMS come on a few times in the last month or so.
 Today,
  after a longer stretch of accelerating uphill to home, I checked some of
 the
  battery posts.  Measuring with a laser sensor, several of them were
 around
  33C , in a grouping, maybe 6 or 8 posts adjacent on the most positive
 side
  of my pack.  Posts just a few cells more negative were much cooler, maybe
  around 26C or cooler.
 
  I checked the bolts to make sure they were tight, and didn't notice any
 real
  problem with the connections being loose.  My only other thought is that
  perhaps (as has been discussed in other threads), these connections have
  corroded over time ... adding a little resistance layer (I didn't
 initially
  polish or use Noalox on those) that is now finally heating up.  I am also
  using the original copper straps with steels M8 bolts.
 
  Are others noticing this kind of heat with the lithium cell terminals?
  Aside from just cleaning the terminals and putting on some Noalox, might
  there be other things to do?  I installed these in Sep. 2012, so they are
  not quite two years in service.
 
  Thanks - Dan
 
 
 
  -
  Dan Gallagher
  http://www.evalbum.com/3854
 
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Re: [EVDL] CALB bolt terminals getting hot -

2014-08-14 Thread corbin dunn via EV

 On Aug 13, 2014, at 2:20 PM, Danpatgal via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
 
 I am using 38x130 ah CALBs in my Lectric Leopard and have had a too hot (
 40C) warning on my BMS come on a few times in the last month or so.  

Do you get it when driving?

I have the Elithion Pro BMS. My to hot warning comes on sometimes when the 
cells sit in the direct sun. I don't have a cover over them; just plexiglass. 

corbin

 Today,
 after a longer stretch of accelerating uphill to home, I checked some of the
 battery posts.  Measuring with a laser sensor, several of them were around
 33C , in a grouping, maybe 6 or 8 posts adjacent on the most positive side
 of my pack.  Posts just a few cells more negative were much cooler, maybe
 around 26C or cooler.
 
 I checked the bolts to make sure they were tight, and didn't notice any real
 problem with the connections being loose.  My only other thought is that
 perhaps (as has been discussed in other threads), these connections have
 corroded over time ... adding a little resistance layer (I didn't initially
 polish or use Noalox on those) that is now finally heating up.  I am also
 using the original copper straps with steels M8 bolts.
 
 Are others noticing this kind of heat with the lithium cell terminals? 
 Aside from just cleaning the terminals and putting on some Noalox, might
 there be other things to do?  I installed these in Sep. 2012, so they are
 not quite two years in service.
 
 Thanks - Dan
 
 
 
 -
 Dan Gallagher
 http://www.evalbum.com/3854
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/CALB-bolt-terminals-getting-hot-tp4670981.html
 Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at 
 Nabble.com.
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