Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

An interesting book on this subject is "Uniforms: Why We Are What We Wear", by Paul Fussell, Mariner Books, 2002. Your humble and obediant servant, David S Mallinak ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/l

Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

> > http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do > > OOh! I've never seen that painting before! Do you have more information > about it? http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/main.htm Scroll down, just thought it owuld be nice to show a comparisson between it and other ex

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

On Thursday 14 July 2005 2:51 am, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote: > >Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! > > Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that > good. Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he > looks, well, bul

Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?

On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Lauren Walker wrote: > Cool, thank you. But to revert to my original question -- is there > anyplace where the various known ells have been compiled for > comparison and/or reference? You know, "English ell, 15th century, > 1.25 modern yards; Icelandinc ell, 14th century, 19.

Re: [h-cost] Future clothing trends?

We get away with casualness in my company for several reasons, a couple of which are: 1. Montana, as a whole, is a much more casual state than many others. Even the governor is known to wear jeans on occasion. 2. My department deals mostly with data, and virtually no face-to-face interactions

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

Sue Clemenger wrote: It's more of an issue with me, as well, but in my case, it's more of a bust issue than tummy, which I take care of with gores. When I wrote that this morning, what I was picturing was not only all the folk I know in the SCA who wear "I don't give a [EMAIL PROTECTED] if it's

Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?

> From: Joan Jurancich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > There is no "standard ell" that is recognized in all countries, > especially during these earlier periods. Depending upon your > location (and this varied even within some countries), the ell could > range from half a yard to around 1-1/4 yard. An

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

It's more of an issue with me, as well, but in my case, it's more of a bust issue than tummy, which I take care of with gores. When I wrote that this morning, what I was picturing was not only all the folk I know in the SCA who wear "I don't give a [EMAIL PROTECTED] if it's old and grody, you ca

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

>Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! > hums "Every girl's crazy for a sharp dressed man" - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page ___ h-costume m

Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

Adele de Maisieres wrote: People here practically use "t-tunic" as a techinical term. It means "a basic tunic with a rectangular front and back, unshaped sleeve heads, small square gussets at the armpit and two-piece gores in the side-seam." Great shorthand when you want to use that as a st

Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

Adele de Maisieres wrote: pount for descriding something I'm clearly having one of those days. But I'd like to define the word "descride" as-- v.t. to describe dismissively or unkindly. -- Adele de Maisieres - Quot homines, tot sententiae. -

Re: [h-cost] velveteen

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my ignorance but what is the difference between velveteen and velvet? I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something? Oo, oo! Pick me! I know this one! In velvet, the pile is formed

Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

Charlene Charette wrote: My understanding is (and it may be flawed of course) is that "T-tunic" has traditionally referred to the fold over cut and sew up the side, but otherwise unconstructed sort of tunic. When you start attaching sleeves, or sticking in gores, you are making a constructed

Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

Marc Carlson wrote: From: Cynthia Virtue <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why. The top is shaped like a T, even if the skirt area spreads out. Could someone enlighten me? My understanding is (and it may be flaw

Re: [h-cost] velveteen

At 11:42 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote: Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my ignorance but what is the difference between velveteen and velvet? I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something? Bjarne Hi Bjarne, Taken from http://www.apparelsearch.com/gl

Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question

At 10:24 PM 7/13/2005, you wrote: Also which is better/cheaper to buy, use and sew - linen/silk or linen/wool blend? Hi Aylwen, H... I've never thought of that question. Thanks for asking it. My usual thought is what do I want the fabric of my Elizabethans to look like, then go from the

[h-cost] Re: elizabethan dress trimm question

Forgive me for being dense, but I know I've seen that portrait before. I just can't for the life of me remember who it is. Could someone ID it for me? And does anyone have a link to a larger version of the portrait? As for the yardage of trim required, my rule is to guestimate generously and t

Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing

Robin Netherton wrote: On Wed, 13 Jul 2005, Elizabeth Young wrote: Robin Netherton wrote: two books so far on the significance of the clothing descriptions on Chaucer's general prologue to the Canterbury Tales, Would you have the citations handy for those works? Sounds fascinating! Laura

Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]

You do often see the big gold chains with this fashion. Personally, I have not been able to find anything even remotely close other than "decorative chain" from the hardware store, and that does not have the right "look" to me. photos of extant jewelry: http://www.curiousfrau.com/Articles/jewelry

Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

Marc Carlson wrote: Let's first establish what a "tunic" is: according to the Oxford Mnglish Dictionary and Middle English Dictionary, a Tunic (for the middle ages at least) is "A garment resembling a shirt or a gown, worn by both sexes among the Greeks and Romans (OED)", "In Old English and

[h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

From: Charlene Charette <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've never understand the difference between "t-tunic" and "tunic". Let's first establish what a "tunic" is: according to the Oxford Mnglish Dictionary and Middle English Dictionary, a Tunic (for the middle ages at least) is "A garment resembling a

Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?

At 10:07 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote: Hi, Going through my copy of _Woven into the Earth_ with a calculator this time, since I still think in inches, not centimeters. Ostergard writes that the ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas manuscript was about 19.29 inches -- or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I h

[h-cost] velveteen

Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my ignorance but what is the difference between velveteen and velvet? I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ _

Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]

Hi I can understand you would love to make this, but isnt it difficult to get the jewelry that goes with this fashion, i think about the big gold chains? They are very important accesories for this fashion? Bjarne - Original Message - From: "Dianne and Greg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "

Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?

Hi Østergaard is danish, and here we use the word alen. It is an old meassure comparallel to an ell. I once went to a lecture where Østergaard showed slides and told about the royal childrens burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Very very interresting. She is a member of the danish textile history g

Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)

Quoting Carmen Beaudry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: I disagree. I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't look good in a suit. This includes a good friend who's at least 100 lbs overweight. Oh, yeah. I'll second that idea. My teen-ager wanted to buy his tux after his prom for

Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

Quoting Garden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do OOh! I've never seen that painting before! Do you have more information about it? Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutiona

Re: [h-cost] Future clothing trends?

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wonder if there is a trend that if a person is in a job that produces something tangible, they can dress more casually? The professional dressed ones are either managers, or sellers of the product, but don't produce anything. What I've seen in recent years is t

Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?

Lauren Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > Ostergard writes that the ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas > manuscript was about 19.29 inches -- or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I > have heard elsewhere that the standard "ell" was closer to the full > modern yard. FWIW the definition of 'ell' wit

Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

At 07:14 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote: And where on earth would one find the jewellery? There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor jewelry (and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes that he makes custom pieces as well. http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for

Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question

At 06:28 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote: Oooops! That last message wasn't supposed to go to the list. Sorry! Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net "Everything for the Costumer" That's fine with me. I was about to start looking for something similar for my next Tudor gown ideas. It will be a bit befor

[h-cost] Future clothing trends?

Repling to part: My husband's place of employment is slowly swinging in the other direction--they just sent down a new rule that jeans and khakis are no longer acceptable dress during the week--and this is a cluster of radio stations, which normally tend to be quite casual. I did notice, though, t

[h-cost] Alen/ell?

Hi, Going through my copy of _Woven into the Earth_ with a calculator this time, since I still think in inches, not centimeters. Ostergard writes that the ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas manuscript was about 19.29 inches -- or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I have heard elsewhere that the standar

Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

Marc Carlson wrote: From: Cynthia Virtue <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why. The top is shaped like a T, even if the skirt area spreads out. Could someone enlighten me? My understanding is (and it may be flawe

Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"

A couple years back, my nephew had a crew neck undershirt showing in his open collar. We were about to do a family portrait, so I suggested he adjust it. I was informed that it was an intentional look. Better that than boxeer shprts showing, I guess! :-) -Carol > I thought it

Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"

I thought it was more usual to wear a tank undershirt and show a very small amount of upper chest, but I don't meddle in these things. You should see his sandals--he's had that pair since we first met (as college students) and he refuses to replace them. They look like archaeological finds. L

[h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology

From: Cynthia Virtue <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why. The top is shaped like a T, even if the skirt area spreads out. Could someone enlighten me? My understanding is (and it may be flawed of course) is that "

Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"

Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > Hey, my husband still wears the crew-necked white undershirt sticking > out of the shirt neck. That's wrong?!? I'd far rather show an undershirt than my chest... -- Robert Uhl The question of whether a computer can thin

Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

Greetings, A friend and I did a set of 1590s spanish court clothing for the King and Queen of the Midrealm a year or so and we went through easily 100 yards of trim. You could conservatively estimate 50 yards of trim for this dress and still not put as much trim on as you could. I have portrait

[h-cost] looking for picture of Frank Leslie's Lady's magazine

Hi, I have found a nice drawing from Frank Leslie's Lady's magazine. But the picture is quite small and since I am using it for inspiration for my bustle dress, I wondered if someone has a bigger picture of it. Here is the one I found online. http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fas

[h-cost] Tunic terminology

I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why. The top is shaped like a T, even if the skirt area spreads out. Could someone enlighten me? -- Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent "Such virtue hath my pen" -Shakespeare, Sonnet

[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 455

I don't think there were Puritans, per se, in 1740. Does he mean 1640, perhaps? Or, if 1740, maybe he's referring to Presbyterian or some other Protestant Scots-Irish immigrants? -- Mara Message: 1 Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 00:10:49 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1740s characters T

Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

The wise acre answer to that is, how much can you afford? For my Elizabethans I have stopped buying trim in anything less than 10 yard batches and prefer to buy the trim in 20 to 30 yard lengths. As the portrait doesn't show what is happening at the hem (do I count as a true 16th century costum

Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing

On Wed, 13 Jul 2005, Elizabeth Young wrote: > Robin Netherton wrote: > > I know a scholar who has done two books so far on the significance of > > the clothing descriptions on Chaucer's general prologue to the > > Canterbury Tales, if you want a good set of examples of cues that the > > medieval

[h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

Hi, I'm feeling lazy, don't feel like getting out the tape measure, its 12:12am here in Australia - maybe one of you on the list has this info in your head - please don't go to any lengths - otherwise I should be the one doing the work - but approx. how much length of trim do you think I shou

[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 455

Message: 1 Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 00:10:49 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] 1740s characters To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" A friend of mine has been asked to get together some costumes for a short promotional film

Re: [h-cost] Influence of women, was Future ware(gloves)

Given the (officially) low status of women in the past (though many no doubt found ways of exerting influence), I can't imagine it ever having been the norm for wives to choose their husbands' clothes. As for "dressing up", don't forget that before the 19th century well-to-do men often chose to

Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question

Oooops! That last message wasn't supposed to go to the list. Sorry! Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net "Everything for the Costumer" ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question

> Sorry to hijack your topic, but I've got a question on the same topic - > I'm about to make an upper-class Elizabethan Gown and am looking > for a lovely rich brocade to use in earthy colour combinations - can > anyone recommend a place online that I might go to that would have a > design that i

Re: [h-cost] 1740s characters

Well, I associate the term "Puritan" with the late 16th-early 17th centuries. Puritanism was a movement within the Church of England protesting against what they saw as continuing Catholic practices in worship. By the 18th century, people of that persuasion had started to form separate Nonconfor

[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 454

> Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! Oh my, yes! For our wedding 17 years ago, all the men in the party wore pearl gray tailcoats. I loved the color at the time, though it is very dated now. As someone who loves historic costume, that doesn't bother me. Anywa

Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question

At 03:46 AM 7/14/2005, Cynthia Virtue wrote: Side note: I was taught that it's not a brocade unless it has a gold thread in the design. Otherwise it's something else. Not sure if this is true or not! A brocade is (properly, as per a weaver) defined by the weaving technique used to create t

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

(Nothing against tee tunics, mind you, or any of the style-cousins, but many of the ones I've seen are old, sloppy, and badly-fitting. The nicely-fitting ones have just as much Yum! factor as other clothing styles. ;oD) --sue I do seem to have MORE trouble getting a t-tunic to fit right t

Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?

> I have to agree with Suzi. I don't wash my velvets before or after I > sew...it seems to mess with the pyle/pile. ok, it gets funky after it's > washed; however gently. And I've found all the velvet I have washed looks infinitely better than when I first got it. Same with many people around me

[h-cost] 1740s characters

A friend of mine has been asked to get together some costumes for a short promotional film to show investors and others in order to get funding to do a whole film. He always comes to me for period consultation because he has never studied any period clothing or costuming or design. But he's b

Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question

I'm about to make an upper-class Elizabethan Gown and am looking for a lovely rich brocade to use in earthy colour combinations - can anyone recommend a place online that I might go to that would have a design that is close to period accurate and is of a natural fibre? Calico Corners is a ch

Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing

Robin Netherton wrote: I know a scholar who has done two books so far on the significance of the clothing descriptions on Chaucer's general prologue to the Canterbury Tales, if you want a good set of examples of cues that the medieval reader would have found significant. Would you have the cita

Re: [h-cost] Re: Defensive costuming

> And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine". > > :-) > > > > Joan Jurancich > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Your brigantine??? > > Er - what is the connection between a woman's steel-boned undergarment, - and a two masted, sailing cargo-ship - square-rigged on the

Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing

Robin Netherton wrote: In the offices I've worked in, it was the secretaries and lower-level assistants that wore the snazzy hairstyles, trendy jewelry, shorter skirts, figure-flattering tops, and the like. The higher the level, the more sober the women dressed -- definitely well-groomed and succ

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! Dianne Yes, and i keep trying to convice my husband tio wear that stuff, but he says since he put on the years to get a phd, he does not have to wear that, and so i have to subsite on him in khakies :( Now, to bring

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

I think the key clue in the original question is "well-fitted," which, for me, would certainly include fabrics with a drape/hand appropriate to the wearer and the design. Certainly, men with different builds will look different in suits, but they all do tend to look Pretty Darned Good in a pro

Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)

Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that good. Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he looks, well, bulky. I disagree. I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't look good in a suit. This includes a good friend who's at lea

Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]

> something along these lines: > http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOneZoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view Mode=1&item=11.15 > Sigh..I love that gown. Absolutely love it. I want it. And there is no way I have time to make it before Pennsic. Dianne

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

- Original Message - From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 2:51 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves) > > >Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! > > Men hav

[h-cost] New Laughing Moon pattern!

Just received word from my supplier last evening about a new Laughing Moon pattern. Very excited about this one and thought I'd share, as well as offer advance, discounted sale. Early 1860s Day Dress I know this pattern's going to be a hit, not only because of the consistent level of high qua

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

I particularly like the look of a three-piece suit (getting rarer these days). Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13/07/2005 17:51 >>> Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! Dianne > > __

Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)

Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that good. Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he looks, well, bulky. CarolynKayta Barrows I disagree. I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't look good in a suit. This incl

Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)

Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr! Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that good. Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he looks, well, bulky. CarolynKayta Barrows dollmaker, fibre artist, textill