Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sharon Collier
Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with a
decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing in 1570's? 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jane Stockton
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 6:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

  At 11:28 AM 27/05/2009, you wrote:
Late Elizabethan, when ladies' hair was often (in portraits, at least) 
puffed at the front, and with a cap or something (hard to see because 
of course, it's on the back of the head). Often seemed to have quite a 
bit of jewelling/fancy work.

Nothing in colour, but much better for getting structure - try my blog:

http://plainattyre.blogspot.com/

You will have to scroll back, page by page, but you should be able to find
several examples of what you are looking for.

Cheers,
Jane



Jane Stockton - jane_stock...@webcon.net.au Barony of Mordenvale, Kingdom of
Lochac

Stocktons Historical Embroidery - http://stocktons.webcon.net.au/ (shop) In
Prayse of the Needle - http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/ (personal website)
Historical Needlework Resources - http://medieval.webcon.net.au/ (resource
website) The Needles' Excellency - http://laren.blogspot.com/ (blog)

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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:


Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with a
decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing in  
1570's?


A caul on its own is more likely.  Billiments generally appeared on  
the front of French hoods.  Images do appear of a billiment with a  
gathered bag on the back, like these:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52219...@n00/517628674/
http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12id=548
but they generally appear on children, not adults.

The exception I've found is Christina of Denmark
http://www.oberlin.edu/amam/images/coxcie_michiel_fi_000.jpg
http://www.studio-international.co.uk/studio-images/holbein/ 
Christina_b.jpg

but hers lacks a decorative billiment.

This one
http://www.englandhistory.com/sections/government/Monarchs/ 
ElizabethI.jpg
looks like a decorated caul with a veil pinned so that the edge makes  
small scallops over the top.


Melanie Schuessler
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Try googling

Elizabethan geek

She's got a great website.

Arlys

On Tue, 26 May 2009 16:37:18 -0700 Sharon Collier
sha...@collierfam.com writes:
 I am looking for a picture or instructions for a late Elizabethan 
 headdress.
 I do not want the French hood that covers the ears, rather I am 
 looking for
 the fancy roll that sits further back on the head. I believe these 
 were
 attached to a caul, but I'm not sure. Any 
 advice/ideas/pictures/links would
 be appreciated.
 Sharon C.
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[h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs

2009-05-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. My SCA persona's appr. time is 1312, England. 
 
A few months ago, I got my very long hair cut short; love it--no 
regrets. Made a sizable donation to Locks of Love, a charity I would 
encourage you to consider if you are getting your long hair cut.
 
Anyway, the problem:
 
My hair is naturally very wavy and has a lot of bounce. My summer 
coif isn't heavy enough to keep my hair down. Might anyone know if women 
of this period wore linen headkerchiefs? I'm trying to stay away from
turbans--things like that give me headaches. 
 
Any links would be hugely appreciated!

Much thanks,
Arlys


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Susan Farmer

 On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:



Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with a
decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing in 1570's?


Have you looked here yet?

http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html
http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html

I suspect that this is what you want.

jerusha/ susan
-
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Melanie Schuessler
While I agree with Laura on how coifs were probably worn, there is  
some debate about who would have worn them and under what  
circumstances.  In the 1570s, coifs were probably worn in public  
mostly by the middle and lower classes, not by the upper and noble  
classes.  The very fancy ones that survive were probably home/ 
sleepwear.   The only exception I can think of off-hand is  
Theophilia, wife of the 3rd Earl of Worcester (1567):

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Theophila.jpg
Please note that she's also wearing a forehead cloth.

If you're doing an upper or noble class outfit, there is this one  
piece of evidence for coif-wearing, but you might be better served  
with a more formal type of headwear.


Melanie Schuessler


On May 27, 2009, at 11:11 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:


 On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:



Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with a
decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing  
in 1570's?


Have you looked here yet?

http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html
http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html

I suspect that this is what you want.

jerusha/ susan
-
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sharon Collier
Yes, that looks very much like what I want to make. Is it a flat piece, like
a french hood, or a decorated roll? 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sagittarius Uisce Beatha
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

Here's a picture of Queen Elizabeth I (1575) wearing what I think you're
describing:
http://www.englandhistory.com/sections/government/Monarchs/ElizabethI.jpg

From my understanding, it's still essentially a french hood just a 
smaller
version so all that can be seen of it is the crescent.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/frenchhood.html.  If you scroll
to the bottom there's a paragraph about french hoods of the later period
that you seek.  There's also another page that tells you how to construct a
french hood, unfortunately the pattern for the later period isn't there but
the earlier periods are.  Maybe you can adapt the pattern to suit what
you're looking for.


On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 9:28 PM, Sharon Collier
sha...@collierfam.comwrote:

 Late Elizabethan, when ladies' hair was often (in portraits, at least) 
 puffed at the front, and with a cap or something (hard to see because 
 of course, it's on the back of the head). Often seemed to have quite a 
 bit of jewelling/fancy work.


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Alexandria Doyle
Just  to make sure I understand this, there is a difference between
coif and caul, isn't there?

I've always thought the coif was the embroider (or not) little hat
item that covers the top, side and back of the head, basically a
shaped folded piece of cloth.

A caul was more of a cap worn on the back of the head, covering the
hair that was put back in a bun/braid.  It would be highly decorated
with beads, jewels and embroidery.  there may or may not be a veil
pinned to the caul as well.

alex

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 12:10 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:
 If not a coif/caul, what? I don't want something to cover the ears. Did
 french hoods sit back farther on the head later in the century? I keep
 seeing pictures with what appears to be a jeweled or fancy fabric headband
 type of thing, but don't know how to make it. And have no idea what the back
 of such an item would look like.

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
 Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:11 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

 While I agree with Laura on how coifs were probably worn, there is some
 debate about who would have worn them and under what circumstances.  In the
 1570s, coifs were probably worn in public mostly by the middle and lower
 classes, not by the upper and noble classes.  The very fancy ones that
 survive were probably home/
 sleepwear.   The only exception I can think of off-hand is
 Theophilia, wife of the 3rd Earl of Worcester (1567):
 http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Theophila.jpg
 Please note that she's also wearing a forehead cloth.

 If you're doing an upper or noble class outfit, there is this one piece of
 evidence for coif-wearing, but you might be better served with a more formal
 type of headwear.

 Melanie Schuessler


 On May 27, 2009, at 11:11 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:

  On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:

 Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with a
 decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing in
 1570's?

 Have you looked here yet?

 http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html
 http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html

 I suspect that this is what you want.

 jerusha/ susan
 -
 Susan Farmer
 sfar...@goldsword.com
 Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
 Division of Science and Math
 http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs

2009-05-27 Thread Anne
Could you describe more fully what you are terming a coif and a 
headkerchief?


The classic style for early 1300s is with the hair in knobs, loops or 
columns at the temples, with one piece of cloth (wimple?) round the 
throat, under the chin and pulled up to the temples and another 
(veil?) draped over the top of the head.  They would certainly be 
linen, but of whatever weight suits you best.  (The hair can be false 
pieces on a headband, or omitted if necessary.)


Jean

Cynthia J Ley wrote:
Hi all. My SCA persona's appr. time is 1312, England. 
 
A few months ago, I got my very long hair cut short; love it--no 
regrets. Made a sizable donation to Locks of Love, a charity I would 
encourage you to consider if you are getting your long hair cut.
 
Anyway, the problem:
 
My hair is naturally very wavy and has a lot of bounce. My summer 
coif isn't heavy enough to keep my hair down. Might anyone know if women 
of this period wore linen headkerchiefs? I'm trying to stay away from
turbans--things like that give me headaches. 
 
Any links would be hugely appreciated!


Much thanks,
Arlys


Click to slash your phone bill by up to 90%. Discounted VoIP service
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTHbpcVHL0mcLMjCTut6ywTiNxtMZaTFunpxiLvHyxY2gh1LKf0740/
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sharon Collier
I was going to make a caul, but was looking for something different to go
over/with it, hence the decorated roll/billiment/whatever. I had a hat
before, but found that it gets really hot, so was hoping to find something
less.
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 11:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

Just  to make sure I understand this, there is a difference between coif and
caul, isn't there?

I've always thought the coif was the embroider (or not) little hat item that
covers the top, side and back of the head, basically a shaped folded piece
of cloth.

A caul was more of a cap worn on the back of the head, covering the hair
that was put back in a bun/braid.  It would be highly decorated with beads,
jewels and embroidery.  there may or may not be a veil pinned to the caul as
well.

alex

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 12:10 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
wrote:
 If not a coif/caul, what? I don't want something to cover the ears. 
 Did french hoods sit back farther on the head later in the century? I 
 keep seeing pictures with what appears to be a jeweled or fancy fabric
headband
 type of thing, but don't know how to make it. And have no idea what 
 the back of such an item would look like.

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
 On Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
 Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:11 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

 While I agree with Laura on how coifs were probably worn, there is 
 some debate about who would have worn them and under what 
 circumstances.  In the 1570s, coifs were probably worn in public 
 mostly by the middle and lower classes, not by the upper and noble 
 classes.  The very fancy ones that survive were probably home/ 
 sleepwear.   The only exception I can think of off-hand is Theophilia, 
 wife of the 3rd Earl of Worcester (1567):
 http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Theophila.jpg
 Please note that she's also wearing a forehead cloth.

 If you're doing an upper or noble class outfit, there is this one 
 piece of evidence for coif-wearing, but you might be better served 
 with a more formal type of headwear.

 Melanie Schuessler


 On May 27, 2009, at 11:11 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:

  On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:

 Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with 
 a decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing 
 in 1570's?

 Have you looked here yet?

 http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html
 http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html

 I suspect that this is what you want.

 jerusha/ susan
 -
 Susan Farmer
 sfar...@goldsword.com
 Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
 Division of Science and Math
 http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sagittarius Uisce Beatha
From my understanding, it's constructed like a french hood except the base
doesn't cover the ears but sits more like a headband with the crescent
sitting on top.
http://images2.fanpop.com/images/photos/270/Elizabeth-I-of-England-The-Darnley-Portrait-kings-and-queens-2710388-800-1170.jpg,
If you look in that picture of QEI, you'll see that there's also still a
veil attached as well.  As for the very back, I couldn't say for sure if
there is a bag there or not.  Or if there is a coif made to fit under such a
small hood.  From the looks of it, you still have the flat piece that the
crescent sits on, but the crescent basically takes it over.  It's really
hard to say for sure as the bouffant hair covers the detail of the base.

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 1:12 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote:

 Yes, that looks very much like what I want to make. Is it a flat piece,
 like
 a french hood, or a decorated roll?

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Sagittarius Uisce Beatha
 Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:30 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

 Here's a picture of Queen Elizabeth I (1575) wearing what I think you're
 describing:
 http://www.englandhistory.com/sections/government/Monarchs/ElizabethI.jpg

 From my understanding, it's still essentially a french hood just a
 smaller
 version so all that can be seen of it is the crescent.

 http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/frenchhood.html.  If you scroll
 to the bottom there's a paragraph about french hoods of the later period
 that you seek.  There's also another page that tells you how to construct a
 french hood, unfortunately the pattern for the later period isn't there but
 the earlier periods are.  Maybe you can adapt the pattern to suit what
 you're looking for.



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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sagittarius Uisce Beatha
I think a caul would work with the later period french hood/billiment,
especially in the heat.

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 2:42 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote:

 I was going to make a caul, but was looking for something different to go
 over/with it, hence the decorated roll/billiment/whatever. I had a hat
 before, but found that it gets really hot, so was hoping to find something
 less.
 Sharon


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On May 27, 2009, at 2:00 PM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:


Just  to make sure I understand this, there is a difference between
coif and caul, isn't there?


Yes.  At least modern people make a distinction.


I've always thought the coif was the embroider (or not) little hat
item that covers the top, side and back of the head, basically a
shaped folded piece of cloth.


It's sewn up at the top and gathered across the back of the neck.   
You can see images of coifs both flat and sewn up here:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coifpics.html

The distinguishing features of coifs are the shape when laid flat and  
the ground fabric, which was pretty much always white linen.  Some  
are plain, some embroidered with blackwork, some with polychrome  
embroidery, and some even have gold thread and spangles on them.



A caul was more of a cap worn on the back of the head, covering the
hair that was put back in a bun/braid.


It's basically a circle gathered and sewn to one side of a straight  
band whose short ends have been joined--at least, that is a  
construction that results in something that looks like what we see in  
the portraits.  I don't know that we have any extant ones.  The band  
is what you see in most portraits that show it, such as the one of  
Queen Elizabeth that has been referenced a few times in this thread.


In 16th-century portraits, cauls (when the word is used to mean a cap  
and not a net) generally look like they are made of a fancier fabric  
(i.e., not white linen, and probably not linen at all) and are often  
decorated.


Melanie Schuessler
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Melanie Schuessler
It might be cooler, but if you are concerned with historical  
accuracy, be aware that this is a modern hybrid and not a historical  
style.  What about putting a veil over it, as Elizabeth did?


Melanie Schuessler


On May 27, 2009, at 4:37 PM, Sagittarius Uisce Beatha wrote:


I think a caul would work with the later period french hood/billiment,
especially in the heat.

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 2:42 PM, Sharon Collier  
sha...@collierfam.comwrote:


I was going to make a caul, but was looking for something  
different to go
over/with it, hence the decorated roll/billiment/whatever. I had a  
hat
before, but found that it gets really hot, so was hoping to find  
something

less.
Sharon



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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sagittarius Uisce Beatha
I'm going by what it looks like to me.
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/images/13.jpg in that picture the
back shape looks like the QEI picture except this one covers the ears.
According to the site that you just linked me to, it says later period
french hoods are more often referred to as billiments because the hood
itself had gotten so small.

http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/images/48.jpg This one doesn't
cover the ears and you can see the crescent nicely.  It's pictures like
that, that make me say french hood.

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:49 PM, Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.netwrote:



 I don't think this is any variety of French hood at all, but rather a caul
 or cap made of a circle gathered to a band.  You can find diagrams and
 instructions on the top half of this page:
 http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/caulmake.html

 I should amend my statement in my previous email about cauls not being made
 of linen--that was in reference to upper-class cauls.  Clearly lower-class
 women did wear white linen cauls, as can be seen in many Flemish genre
 paintings.

 Melanie Schuessler

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Re: [h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs

2009-05-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Wed, 27 May 2009 19:10:45 +0100 Anne anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
writes:
 Could you describe more fully what you are terming a coif and a 
 headkerchief?

You bet! :-) Coif--the ubiquitous little cap-like thing everyone wore.
Headkerchief--I suppose we'ld call them scarves nowadays. Take a square
of fabric, fold it into a triangle, place on head, tie two points
together in the back.

Thanks!
Arlys
 
 The classic style for early 1300s is with the hair in knobs, loops 
 or 
 columns at the temples, with one piece of cloth (wimple?) round 
 the 
 throat, under the chin and pulled up to the temples and another 
 (veil?) draped over the top of the head.  They would certainly be 
 linen, but of whatever weight suits you best.  (The hair can be 
 false 
 pieces on a headband, or omitted if necessary.)
 
 Jean
 
 Cynthia J Ley wrote:
  Hi all. My SCA persona's appr. time is 1312, England. 
   
  A few months ago, I got my very long hair cut short; love it--no 
  regrets. Made a sizable donation to Locks of Love, a charity I 
 would 
  encourage you to consider if you are getting your long hair cut.
   
  Anyway, the problem:
   
  My hair is naturally very wavy and has a lot of bounce. My summer 
  coif isn't heavy enough to keep my hair down. Might anyone know if 
 women 
  of this period wore linen headkerchiefs? I'm trying to stay away 
 from
  turbans--things like that give me headaches. 
   
  Any links would be hugely appreciated!
 
  Much thanks,
  Arlys
 
  
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On May 27, 2009, at 5:14 PM, Sagittarius Uisce Beatha wrote:


I'm going by what it looks like to me.
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/images/13.jpg in that  
picture the

back shape looks like the QEI picture except this one covers the ears.
According to the site that you just linked me to, it says later period
french hoods are more often referred to as billiments because the hood
itself had gotten so small.

http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/images/48.jpg This one  
doesn't
cover the ears and you can see the crescent nicely.  It's pictures  
like

that, that make me say french hood.


These are both definitely French hoods.  The white crescent with gold  
on either side and black behind (the black is the hood) are a dead  
giveaway.


Melanie Schuessler
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sharon Collier
What would the veil be made of? Silk? Linen? And what color?
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 1:51 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

It might be cooler, but if you are concerned with historical accuracy, be
aware that this is a modern hybrid and not a historical style.  What about
putting a veil over it, as Elizabeth did?

Melanie Schuessler


On May 27, 2009, at 4:37 PM, Sagittarius Uisce Beatha wrote:

 I think a caul would work with the later period french hood/billiment, 
 especially in the heat.

 On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 2:42 PM, Sharon Collier
 sha...@collierfam.comwrote:

 I was going to make a caul, but was looking for something different 
 to go over/with it, hence the decorated roll/billiment/whatever. I 
 had a hat before, but found that it gets really hot, so was hoping to 
 find something less.
 Sharon


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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Sharon Collier
In the second picture, I don't see any type of veiling hanging from the
back. Do you think it was a caul or just that the veil can't be seen?
Sharon 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sagittarius Uisce Beatha
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 2:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

I'm going by what it looks like to me.
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/images/13.jpg in that picture the
back shape looks like the QEI picture except this one covers the ears.
According to the site that you just linked me to, it says later period
french hoods are more often referred to as billiments because the hood
itself had gotten so small.

http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/images/48.jpg This one doesn't
cover the ears and you can see the crescent nicely.  It's pictures like
that, that make me say french hood.

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:49 PM, Melanie Schuessler
mela...@faucet.netwrote:



 I don't think this is any variety of French hood at all, but rather a 
 caul or cap made of a circle gathered to a band.  You can find 
 diagrams and instructions on the top half of this page:
 http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/caulmake.html

 I should amend my statement in my previous email about cauls not being 
 made of linen--that was in reference to upper-class cauls.  Clearly 
 lower-class women did wear white linen cauls, as can be seen in many 
 Flemish genre paintings.

 Melanie Schuessler

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