Re: [h-cost] Ye olde modern art WAS Research, Primary so on

2009-07-06 Thread Saragrace Knauf

There are lots of things wrong with the costumes - but who cares?!  It looks 
like fun...though I'd have no idea how to play it.  I didn't even know 
Ubisoft still existed...
Sg (who misses Myst type games)


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[h-cost] Professional Pleating Services -your experiences?

2009-06-30 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I have a large amout of fabric I want to get pleated for a particular project I 
am working on.  Have any of you had any luck with a professional pleating 
service lately?  


http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pleating/

Saragracer
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[h-cost] Fabric Pattern, what is it? Was: web pages

2009-06-10 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Sorry about the no subject email - I hate those!

From: wickedf...@msn.com
To: therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com; h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: 
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 07:10:54 -0700









I think these are reproductions out of Norris, Kohler or one of the books they 
copied from, but I do have a question about the gown (0br.9 Pánská houpelande 
)on this page:

http://www.kostym.cz/Cesky/III_14_03.htm
Does anyone recognize the original painting from which this might have been 
derived?  I am interested in the pattern on the fabric which is reproduced up 
in the the left hand corner.
I'd be curious to find out if it really existed in a painting somewhere.
Sg





 To: therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com
 From: irena.prodelal...@post.cz
 Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 10:49:52 +0200
 Subject: [TheRenTailor] web pages
 
 Hallo, 
 
 there is interesting web pages with cutts etc.
 
 www.kostym.cz
 
 Irena
 
 
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[h-cost] Middle Eastern pant?

2009-06-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Hi all, I saw a pair of women's pants on someone who couldn't tell me much 
about them except that they were from a period pattern.

They were close fitted from the waist to the hips (sort of yoke I guess).  Then 
the rest which included the legs were like poofy like ballon pants.  The 
bottom of the legs gathered into a button band.  

The extra fabric to make the legs big was pleated into the front (didnt' get to 
see the  back), but the pleats were focused in about 10-12 inches of the 
middle lap.  The lower leg, from just below the knee was made from a fancy 
patterned fabric, the rest was silk noil.


Can anyone point me to what they might be...?

Thanks!

Sg

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Re: [h-cost] Middle Eastern pant?

2009-06-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I may have found my answer:  http://www.nearseanaturals.com/item.php?id=2162

Sarouelles from India?

 From: wickedf...@msn.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 14:40:15 -0700
 Subject: [h-cost] Middle Eastern pant?
 
 
 Hi all, I saw a pair of women's pants on someone who couldn't tell me much 
 about them except that they were from a period pattern.
 
 They were close fitted from the waist to the hips (sort of yoke I guess).  
 Then the rest which included the legs were like poofy like ballon pants.  
 The bottom of the legs gathered into a button band.  
 
 The extra fabric to make the legs big was pleated into the front (didnt' get 
 to see the  back), but the pleats were focused in about 10-12 inches of the 
 middle lap.  The lower leg, from just below the knee was made from a fancy 
 patterned fabric, the rest was silk noil.
 
 
 Can anyone point me to what they might be...?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Sg
 
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Re: [h-cost] Middle Eastern pant?

2009-06-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Here are some free patterns:

http://www.learnstitching.com/search?q=salwar
http://www.learnstitching.com/search/label/CHURIDAR

They both look the same at first, but scroll down.  Oh and beware the obnoxious 
videos in the upper right hand corner.  You have to turn it off every time you 
refresh.

Sg

 Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 15:45:41 -0700
 From: maggi...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Middle Eastern pant?
 
 Sounds like a modification of one of the Sorouelles from Folkwear.
 http://folkwear.com/caravan.html
 
 MaggiRos
 
 
 
 
 Maggie Secara
 ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
 Available at your favorite online bookseller
 See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress
 
 
 On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote:
 
 
  Hi all, I saw a pair of women's pants on someone who couldn't tell me much
  about them except that they were from a period pattern.
 
  They were close fitted from the waist to the hips (sort of yoke I guess).
   Then the rest which included the legs were like poofy like ballon pants.
   The bottom of the legs gathered into a button band.
 
  The extra fabric to make the legs big was pleated into the front (didnt'
  get to see the  back), but the pleats were focused in about 10-12 inches
  of the middle lap.  The lower leg, from just below the knee was made from a
  fancy patterned fabric, the rest was silk noil.
 
 
  Can anyone point me to what they might be...?
 
  Thanks!
 
  Sg
 
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Re: [h-cost] What colors were used Charles du Blois Purpoint?

2009-06-01 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I wasn't very clear in my request.  I have the sewing pattern.  The pattern I 
was refereeing to was the fabric pattern, the colors in the photos are better 
than what I have.  But usually on something this old, the colors now are not 
what they would have originally been.

As to the buttons, if they were reversed, I might offer the idea that he might 
wear some sort of armor on top of it - the flat buttons being more comfortable 
than the round...but I have not a clue otherwise.

Thanks,

Sg




 Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 00:37:56 -0400
 From: ail...@neo.rr.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What colors were used  Charles du Blois Purpoint?
 
 The buttons down the front are mixed - the one at the very top is flat, the 
 next bunch are balls as are the ones on the sleeves. The ones from about the 
 waist to the bottom of the pourpoint are flat like the one at the top. I 
 can't imagine why they're like that. 
 
 Kate
  otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: 
  http://tinyurl.com/mkzpm9
  
  http://gambesons.com/design
  Interesting, this shows that the buttons down the front are not the same
  shape as the ones on the sleeve.
  
  http://tinyurl.com/mj4bws
  this has a pattern.
  
  De
  
  
  
  -Original Message-
  Now that I have some really great close ups of the fabric, does anyone now
  what color(s) it was supposed to be?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Sg
  
  From: wickedf...@msn.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?
  Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:08 -0700
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  I was asked today to make one of these purpoints - given the recent
  discussion on reproduction prints, does anyone know of any really up close
  photos of the print on the fabric of this garment?  It sure would be fun
  to recreate it that way!
  
  Thanks,
  
  Sg
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Re: [h-cost] What colors were used Charles du Blois Purpoint?

2009-06-01 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Thanks!

 From: alt...@alfalfapress.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com; h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 10:08:51 -0500
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What colors were used  Charles du Blois Purpoint?
 
 My notes are at home, but I seem to remember that the pourpoint was made of
 silk damask fabric. The woven pattern consists of a heraldic design with lions
 and eagles (?) in roundels. The color was either red with gold thread or gold
 with gold thread. I can check later today.
 
 Althea
 
 
 
 On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 05:48:13 -0700, Saragrace Knauf wrote
  I wasn't very clear in my request.  I have the sewing pattern.  The 
  pattern I was refereeing to was the fabric pattern, the colors in 
  the photos are better than what I have.  But usually on something 
  this old, the colors now are not what they would have originally been.
  
  As to the buttons, if they were reversed, I might offer the idea 
  that he might wear some sort of armor on top of it - the flat 
  buttons being more comfortable than the round...but I have not a 
  clue otherwise.
  
  Thanks,
  
  Sg
  
   Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 00:37:56 -0400
   From: ail...@neo.rr.com
   To: h-cost...@indra.com
   Subject: Re: [h-cost] What colors were used  Charles du Blois Purpoint?
   
   The buttons down the front are mixed - the one at the very top is flat,
 the next bunch are balls as are the ones on the sleeves. The ones from about
 the waist to the bottom of the pourpoint are flat like the one at the top. I
 can't imagine why they're like that. 
   
   Kate
    otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: 
http://tinyurl.com/mkzpm9

http://gambesons.com/design
Interesting, this shows that the buttons down the front are not the same
shape as the ones on the sleeve.

http://tinyurl.com/mj4bws
this has a pattern.

De



-Original Message-
Now that I have some really great close ups of the fabric, does anyone 
now
what color(s) it was supposed to be?

Thanks,

Sg

From: wickedf...@msn.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:08 -0700








I was asked today to make one of these purpoints - given the recent
discussion on reproduction prints, does anyone know of any really up 
close
photos of the print on the fabric of this garment?  It sure would be 
fun
to recreate it that way!

Thanks,

Sg
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 ***
 Directory of Diverse Knowledge
 http://www.alfalfapress.com/sca
 
 Althea Turner
 alt...@alfalfapress.com
 
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[h-cost] What colors were used Charles du Blois Purpoint?

2009-05-31 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Now that I have some really great close ups of the fabric, does anyone now what 
color(s) it was supposed to be?

Thanks,

Sg

From: wickedf...@msn.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:08 -0700








I was asked today to make one of these purpoints - given the recent discussion 
on reproduction prints, does anyone know of any really up close photos of the 
print on the fabric of this garment?  It sure would be fun to recreate it 
that way!

Thanks,

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Tracking your projects

2009-05-26 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Cool!

 Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 18:24:44 -0700
 From: maggi...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Tracking your projects
 
 Kimiko turned me on to this servicce the other day, and it's really great
 for getting organized. Also it's aimed specifically at historical costumers,
 so we're all in good company. Check it out!
 
 http://www.projectarchive.org/
 
 
 MaggiRos
 
 Maggie Secara
 ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
 See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-26 Thread Saragrace Knauf

When you say Late Elizabethan, what do you mean by time period?  And do you 
necessarily mean English?  I have inserted a link below which is Italian, which 
is what was brought to my mind when you said fancy roll.

Saragrace

http://www.allposters.com/gallery.asp?aid=85097apnum=1347911LinkTypeID=1PosterTypeID=1DestType=7Referrer%20=http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/bacchiacca_francesco.html

 From: sha...@collierfam.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 16:37:18 -0700
 Subject: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress
 
 I am looking for a picture or instructions for a late Elizabethan headdress.
 I do not want the French hood that covers the ears, rather I am looking for
 the fancy roll that sits further back on the head. I believe these were
 attached to a caul, but I'm not sure. Any advice/ideas/pictures/links would
 be appreciated.
 Sharon C.
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[h-cost] The meaning of hand position in art - OT?

2009-05-15 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Well, I guess this could be considered OT - or mannerisms are a part of fashion 
-

I know someone here knows this...where or how do I find information on the hand 
positions in artwork???  These are a few links below for examples...the one I 
was really thinking of was where the hand is held up and the forefinger touches 
the thumbof course I can't find a picture of it right now.  It seems to me 
that I remember it as a typical gesture in the paintings of Christ and/or the 
Madonna.

http://www.viewbuildings.com/simages/isleham-full.jpg

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Jan_van_Eyck_001.jpg

Thanks in advance!

Sg
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[h-cost] These are pretty cool!

2009-05-15 Thread Saragrace Knauf

http://www.costumecavalcade.co.uk/index.htm

For such a small scale this lady has captured the essence of the periods..

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?

2009-04-28 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I have replied off list - Thank you very much!

 Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 13:12:40 -0500
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 From: bmat...@windstream.net
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?
 
 Saragrace,
 
 I have some closeups that clearly show the textile. I can sent you 
 (offlist) a full frontal at 3MB for the jpg or just a detail of the 
 pattern unit as a much smaller file.
 

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[h-cost] Really close up of Charles du Blois Purpoint?

2009-04-27 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I was asked today to make one of these purpoints - given the recent discussion 
on reproduction prints, does anyone know of any really up close photos of the 
print on the fabric of this garment?  It sure would be fun to recreate it 
that way!

Thanks,

Sg
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[h-cost] Wine! Was: - Dyeing linen wool blend

2009-04-23 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Now that is a cool idea!Thanks!

 From: sha...@collierfam.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 01:15:54 -0700
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] update -  Dyeing linen wool blend
Or try wine.
 Everyone complains that it is so hard to get out a wine stain, why not use
 that to your advantage? And on the pink, it might turn out really nice.

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Re: [h-cost] Dyeing linen wool blend

2009-04-23 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Aha!  This is the kind of help I usually getthank you very much!  I will 
look into this further...but I must admit the wine idea may be the simplest!  :)

 From: joan.mielke.y...@comcast.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 15:44:51 -0600
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyeing linen wool blend
 
 I'm sorry to hear that Sg had such awful luck with Dharma customer service.
 I asked them the exact same question last year and this is the response that
 I got.
 
 Joan

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[h-cost] Dyeing linen wool blend

2009-04-22 Thread Saragrace Knauf







Hi all, I bought this beutiful linen wool blend fabric (pale pink) with the 
intention of dyeing it a darker color.  I use procion dyes on linen with great 
success, but am a little leery of using it on wool.  I wrote dharma, who 
usually has great suggestions, but this time the customer rep wasn't 
encouraging:

hello, thank your for contacting dharma trading co.,



procion w/ soda ash can roughen wool, but is still the best dye for
linen. I would recommend that rather than idye for natural fibers,
since idye can fade with every wash. there is always the danger of
damaging a garment by dyeing it. I would only proceed if I was willing
to risk ruining the garment.

As I pasted this response, I realize I was reading it as - Don't try either 
method unless you are willing to risk ruining the garment  but maybe what he 
meant was:  use the procion, it is safe (though it may do funny things in the 
wool) but don't use idye products.

What would you guys do???

Sg
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[h-cost] update - Dyeing linen wool blend

2009-04-22 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I was dyeing some linen today, so I decided to put a small piece of the pink 
wool/linen in with it (using procion).  Not good news.  It became very clear 
that the fabric is half wool half linen with the threads of both weft and warp 
made up of a strand of each.  The linen absorbed the dye beautifully, the wool 
not at all.  And it fulled up and left a fuzz of pink wool on the surface.

So maybe the question is: what does one do with 8 yards of pretty pink 
fabricI know there is pink in pre 17th century stuff (which is what I do 
mostly) but not this shade.

SighI will have to do further testing with different dyes...  Thank you for 
your suggestions!  If you have any more I am all ears!

Sg

Further more, it 
 
 I hope the OP has enough yardage for sampling, because this is a prime case 
 for it! I
 would dye swatches. Use cellulosic dye, acid dye (for protein) and something 
 like Rit. And
 do all of them in several colors and strengths. Rit can be done successfully 
 if you follow
 the directions closely and monitor the fabric throughout the process. It is 
 also lightfast
 and wash fast in most colors (as much as any other dye) if the directions are 
 followed
 carefully and the article is rinsed thoroughly.  You might want to talk to a 
 natural dyer
 and see about doing some samples in a natural dye bath - depending on what 
 color you want
 in the end.
 
 The other factor is to determine if the linen/wool blend is the result of 
 alternating
 yarns in the weave, or if it's a true blend of linen and wool fibers in the 
 yarn that is
 uniform across the entire product. Each will give a slightly different look 
 when dyed.
 
 Denise B
 Iowa
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs

2009-04-09 Thread Saragrace Knauf

This is curious - someone else mentioned to me the other day that they had read 
in Janet Arnold's new book, POF4 that the ruffs were never stitched to hold 
the folds in shape.  (She cited the back part of the book where starching and 
shaping was described.)

I reread that section and could see that the ruff  they were working with, 
indeed was not sewn with stitches, but I didn't see anything that said they 
were never sewn.

Are you citing something you have read?

Sg

 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 From: h.zickerm...@gmx.de
 Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
 
 Hello,
 
 has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the 
 outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and 
 Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of 
 these stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as 
 the ruffs are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in 
 nylon material.
 Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a 
 decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?
 
 Thank you,
 Hanna
 
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Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs

2009-04-09 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I'd agree with you here.  It kinda makes sense that it would develop that way-
Started out as just a frill on a cuff or neckband and then got increasingly 
more complicated.

I have made them both ways - for very different looks.  I made a reproduction 
of this gown 
http://www.phxart.org/slideshow/index.html#/COL/72157606055619396/2650051503/

and sewed the pleats into place.

At the time I wondered if they would have done it that way - not sure how or if 
they would have laundered it.  I also used horsehair braid in the edge to 
maintain the shape since it was made out of silk organza - I wouldn't count 
this approach out.  Horsehair braid really was made out of horsehair at some 
point - (some interfacing still has goat hair in it.)  And one of my favorite 
quotes from a professional historian is: If you thought of it, they probably 
did too!!

(I also sprayed it with acrylic spray rather than starching it - it was going 
to the museum, and I figured it would be better from a dust standpoint)  

I think in the POF book they showed this type of ruff in one picture where 
there were two different methods used.  One where the attachment to the 
neckband was cartridge pleated and butted up to the band, and one where it 
looked like the pleats were flattened and attached into the seam line.  You 
could tell because the latter provided more space for the wearer.

Sg



 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 16:09:29 -0700
 From: kay...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
 
 IMHO, they're not folded and stitched onto a wide neckband till the early
 1600s.  I cite as evidence those portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, which
 show her ruff from two different angles.  I think earlier ones are tightly
 gathered at the seam at the top of the neck band, heavily starched, and
 goffered into place with a hot iron.  That's why the earlier ones are
 narrower at the neck edge, and why the later ones are so head on a plate.
 
 On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 12:55 PM, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.dewrote:
 
  Not really read, but it´s the technique described in Period Patterns for
  Stage and Screen. I always liked the way the ruffs turned out, but I´m
  beginning to doubt the historical accuracy of the technique, so I thought
  I´d ask here.
 
  Hanna
 
 
  At 21:18 09.04.2009, you wrote:
 
  This is curious - someone else mentioned to me the other day that they had
  read in Janet Arnold's new book, POF4 that the ruffs were never stitched
  to hold the folds in shape.  (She cited the back part of the book where
  starching and shaping was described.)
 
  I reread that section and could see that the ruff  they were working with,
  indeed was not sewn with stitches, but I didn't see anything that said they
  were never sewn.
 
  Are you citing something you have read?
 
  Sg
 
   Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200
   To: h-cost...@indra.com
   From: h.zickerm...@gmx.de
   Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs
  
   Hello,
  
   has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the
   outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and
   Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of
   these stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as
   the ruffs are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in
   nylon material.
   Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a
   decorative feature as well and that they are documentable?
  
   Thank you,
   Hanna
  
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 --
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 --
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[h-cost] State of: RE: New York fabric shopping

2009-04-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I haven't been to LA in a few years, but was in NY in 06 - and I was probably 
one of the people who echoed disappointment.  I also recall saying that I liked 
LA better - 

What I found in NY was that each store had something a little different and 
some of it was really cool, but it took more time to grub around, and the 
prices weren't that great.  I don't know what it was like before, but most of 
the stores are tiny shops crammed with fabric...  The information kiosk for the 
garment district wasn't manned the whole time I was there.  You need to plan 
for at least one business day besides a Friday, and be sure to check out when 
some of the ethnic holidays are.  Many of the shops are closed on those days.

Sg



 From: syl...@ntw.net
 Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 20:48:26 -0600
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] New York fabric shopping
 
 I haven't been following this NY shopping thread, since I never go  
 there, but it brings up a question for me.   I heard a year or two  
 back, that fabric shopping in the big cities isn't what it used to  
 be.  If I take on a new design job I've just been offered, I may have  
 to travel to L.A. to shop for it.  I recall someone saying that the  
 garment district doesn't have all the good jobbers it used to.   True  
 or not?
 
 Sylvia R
 
 On Apr 3, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
 
  Thanks everyone for all the suggestions so far.  I'm getting  
  psyched, and believe it or not, so is my husband (who was dubious  
  about the time we allotted on the schedule for fabric shopping,  
  until he realized there was stuff HE was looking for...)
 
  Susan
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Re: [h-cost] New York fabric shopping

2009-04-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I think this might be the store you are talking about:  
http://www.graylinelinen.com/  How'd I miss it when I was there?

Sg

 Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 21:17:47 -0400
 From: scarrollcl...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] New York fabric shopping
 
 Robin Betzhold wrote:
  My favorite stores are all the hole in the wall places on 39th between 7th
  and 8th. My personal favorite store has been having a going out of business
  sale for the past 3 years...there is one store that sells nothing but 100%
  linen and they have some neat finds. of business 

 Susan
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Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?

2009-03-31 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Ah ha!  Thank you.  I had seen the Kennedy book in OLC, but bad, prejudiced me, 
I thought - Jackie Kennedy wrote anything worth reading???  Looking at Tilke 
right now - very cool.

So far, there are pictures and hints that this type of dress was typical up 
to the 20th century...looks like I will have to dig further to see if I can 
find any hard evidence to show it actually existed before the 18th century.

Thank you very much for the lead!

Sg

 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 13:35:47 +
 From: rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?
 
 You might start with the Jackie Kennedy volume on Russian costume.  It 
 includes many photos of folk costume from Russian regions.  I would also 
 check Tilke for Russian regional dress.
 Kathleen
 -Original Message-
 From: K?the Barrows kay...@gmail.com
 Sent 3/31/2009 5:43:12 AM
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th 
 century?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarafan
 I have made all the body parts and faces for this doll:
  http://www.smallwork.com/babayaga.html
 
  While I love the style, I'd like to dress her in clothing which is earlier
  than (what I understand) 18th and 19th century peasant costume is.  I am
  having difficulty finding artwork and/or resources to do that with.
 -- 
 Carolyn Kayta Barrows
 --
 Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God.
 --
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Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?

2009-03-31 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I will check her out.  I was just able to purchase this: Max Tilke Folk Costume 
Patterns from Russa, Asia and the Greek Urals.  I don't know how far back they 
go but the pictures were awesome!  Thanks for all your suggestions!

Sg






 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 14:51:37 +
 From: rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?
 
 Sara, have you seen any of Alessandra Thor's original work? She is a Russian 
 dollmaker originally connected with the Seeley clan. I find her folk dolls to 
 be awesome...and she often dresses them in Old Time garb.
 -Original Message-
 From: Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com
 Sent 3/31/2009 10:14:02 AM
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?Ah ha!  
 Thank you.  I had seen the Kennedy book in OLC, but bad, prejudiced me, I 
 thought - Jackie Kennedy wrote anything worth reading???  Looking at Tilke 
 right now - very cool.
 So far, there are pictures and hints that this type of dress was typical up 
 to the 20th century...looks like I will have to dig further to see if I can 
 find any hard evidence to show it actually existed before the 18th century.
 Thank you very much for the lead!
 Sg
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 13:35:47 +
  From: rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?
  
  You might start with the Jackie Kennedy volume on Russian costume.  It 
  includes many photos of folk costume from Russian regions.  I would also 
  check Tilke for Russian regional dress.
  Kathleen
  -Original Message-
  From: K?the Barrows kay...@gmail.com
  Sent 3/31/2009 5:43:12 AM
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th 
  century?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarafan
  I have made all the body parts and faces for this doll:
   http://www.smallwork.com/babayaga.html
  
   While I love the style, I'd like to dress her in clothing which is earlier
   than (what I understand) 18th and 19th century peasant costume is.  I am
   having difficulty finding artwork and/or resources to do that with.
  -- 
  Carolyn Kayta Barrows
  --
  Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God.
  --
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[h-cost] Russian Peasant dress prior to 17th century?

2009-03-30 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I have made all the body parts and faces for this doll:  
http://www.smallwork.com/babayaga.html

While I love the style, I'd like to dress her in clothing which is earlier than 
(what I understand) 18th and 19th century peasant costume is.  I am having 
difficulty finding artwork and/or resources to do that with.

I understand that secular art wasn't real big earlier...anyone got any pointers?

I put Russian in quotes because I am open to anything that was part of that 
country or nearby.

Thanks!

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] boning order, want to share?

2009-03-26 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I haven't done the math, but it might be less expensive for you to have one of 
us buy here and ship it to you...you probably won't have to buy so much!  

Sg

 Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 09:46:24 -0300
 From: sjpater...@eastlink.ca
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] boning order, want to share?
 
 FYI I am not sure on shipping rates but we North American's have Greenberg  
 Hammer that sell bones by the pound (rolls) as well as by the piece in rigid 
 steel and spirals..
 http://www.greenberg-hammer.com
 
 Sarah Paterson/ Bess Darnley
 - Original Message - 
 
 
  Hi, I will be ordering these items from Wissner and wanted to know if any 
  of you would like to share. I have to buy at least 200 meters of each 
  boning type and I'm not sure if I can use it.
 
  plastic bones, endless, 7.0 x 1.0, 0,264eur/m (approx. $0.356/m)
  spiral steel bones, endless, 7 x 0.75, 0,40eur/m (approx. $0.54/m)
  spring steel bones, endless, 6.5 x 0.4, 0,42eur/m (approx. $0.57/m)
 
  maybe this (if someone wants to share this, well, I have to buy 2000 
  pieces):
  spiral wire end caps, 7mm, 0,0130eur/m
 
  The prices may get a bit higher as I'll have to pay the shipping, but I 
  don't think that'll be such a big deal.
 
  The only problem is I am from Czech Republic, EU, so the shipping to UK or 
  America will be somewhere between 10-25 dollars, depending on the weight 
  of the package.
 
  The reason I'm ordering these bones is that I haven't found them anywhere 
  else, at least not these widths and thicknesses (I'm speaking about the 
  plastic and spring steel bones). In my experience, the 7mm bones are 
  excellent for corset making, all the bones are stiff but still flexible 
  (thicknesses 1mm for plastic and 0.4mm for spring steel are ideal).
 
  I'll be happy if I find some co-buyers:-)
 
  Zuzana
 
 
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[h-cost] Pointed front kirtle - 1435 ~ 1450??

2009-03-19 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I am looking at Hunnisett Medieval -1500 and wondering about her justification 
for having a pointed front kirtle.  She seems to be using the Magdalene 
portrait as her example...
www.navigo.com/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg

She uses these to images to justify that the skirt is cut separately from the 
bodice http://www.wga.hu/preview/w/weyden/rogier/05sevens/2sevens3.jpg

http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2009/1/13/1231861275475/Gallery-prado-on-google-e-004.jpg

- which I agree with.

Has anyone seen images where a point is visible in the front of this type of 
dress?

Thanks

Sg
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[h-cost] Need help with wool Was: Arnolfi gown - fabric

2009-03-14 Thread Saragrace Knauf







Sorry about the cross posts, and mildly inappropriate topic for some groups, 
but I need help with what to do with this wool - if I should use it etc.

I have posted a journal entry which better describes the issue and has links to 
some pictures. http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1589.html

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

 From: wickedf...@msn.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:59:35 -0700
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi gown - fabric
 
 
 Hmmm, I think what I have  is a very fine twill wool suiting.  I just washed 
 a four inch square and only got 7/8  shrinkage (only along the length).  I 
 am a little worried that it won't be fuzzy enoughit looks so soft in 
 the picture.  This, even when pinked maintains it's structure very well.
 
 I washed the sample in hot water and dried it on high heatI know its 
 wool...I burn tested itbut it just wants to look very neat and modern...
 
 Ah!
 
 Sg
 
 
 
  
  I thought this dress demanded a very fine, rather lightweight material
  in order to make the pleating work.
  
 
  Cindy Abel
  
 
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[h-cost] Arnolfini Pleats/dagges WAS: Need help with wool

2009-03-14 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Wow, this is weird - I didn't send this message today - I was surprised to see 
it
But anyway, I appreciate the feedback.  I am waiting on several more swatches 
of other woolens...not sure yet what I will do about the fabric.  But if you 
are interested, here is some stuff on the pleat mock ups.  
http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/3806.html

 From: wickedf...@msn.com
 Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 09:04:29 -0700
 Subject: [h-cost] Need help with wool Was: Arnolfi gown - fabric
 

 Sorry about the cross posts, and mildly inappropriate topic for some groups, 
 but I need help with what to do with this wool - if I should use it etc.
 
 I have posted a journal entry which better describes the issue and has links 
 to some pictures. http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1589.html
 
 Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats

2009-03-05 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Dear Rebecca, I see the SCA in your future: :)  ...I started at Ren Fests too 
and am having about 100 times more fun there...

Anyway - the pleats.  I haven't done the mockup yet, but I will probably try 
Jean Hunnisetts method which is a series of strips (I think - she shows an 
example them cut in a strip and a pattern of how they attach) of box pleats.  I 
am not entirely convinced yet, but I will start there and fiddle till I am 
happy - may be next year before I am happy.  I think I will be going through a 
lot of wool in the mean time

Sg

 From: zearti...@hotmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 18:35:22 -0500
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
 
 
 I looked at the picture for a while. Are these hanging from the sleeve like a 
 thick fringe or sewn to some type of fabric and that hangs from the lower 
 edge? I think that if it's just hanging there it might turn all which-a-way 
 and not look right. I'm interested in how this is done. I know the site tells 
 how to cut the effect but not how to attach it.
 

 
 Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine
 

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Re: [h-cost] link??? Was: Large family

2009-03-05 Thread Saragrace Knauf

What post was this in reply to??? I must have missed the link...but I would bet 
your are looking at some donor picture where they painted every kid they ever 
had - even if it died young.

Sg

 From: la...@hotmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 06:11:00 -0800
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Large family (Was Mary I -- FOUND)
 
 
 
  
 
 There is the old saying that Bach had 20 children because his organ had no 
 stops
 
  
 
 Laurie
 
  
 
  
  From: zearti...@hotmail.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 21:49:20 -0500
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND
  

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Re: [h-cost] Large family-Original post

2009-03-05 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Oh yeah - donor picture I'd bet.  It really isn't as unusual as it sounds.  My 
own great grand mother had 18 kids - I think they all survived too!



 From: la...@hotmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 09:40:30 -0800
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Large family-Original post
 
 
 Sorry Saragrace, I guess I trimmed too much...
 
  
 
 Laurie
  
  From: zearti...@hotmail.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 21:49:20 -0500
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND
  
  
  WOW what a family! Do you think they are all the main couple's kids or some 
  of the married children's kids included. I don't know anything about this 
  portrait. I count 20 kids but not sure.

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Re: [h-cost] Period Impressions 411 Lucy

2009-03-05 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Which dress, where??? 

Sg

 Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 10:40:20 +1100
 From: aylwe...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Period Impressions 411 Lucy
 
 Has anyone here made this dress?I am looking for finished examples,
 and it is NOT reviewed at
 http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/period-impressions.html
 Any comments to share before I cut the fabric?
 Bye for now,
 
 Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
 
 Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
 music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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[h-cost] Need input on pleat size WAS: Need help with wool

2009-03-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I have posted pictures and a journal entry here:
http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1966.html
http://pics.livejournal.com/wickedfrau/pic/3fze/g8 (Picture is here)

I am wondering how big those dags and pleats areHunnisett thinks they are 
only 2 square.

What do you think?

Sg

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Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats

2009-03-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf

This is cool - another alternative to Hunnisett's method.

 From: zearti...@hotmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 13:29:39 -0500
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
 
 
 Didn't know what dagging was so I looked it up. Found lots about the 
 painting but only this one on the technique: 
 http://jauncourt.i8.com/dagges/index.htm
 
 Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine

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Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-03 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I interlined my under dress down to about the hip level with sturdy canvas - I 
also have done this with cotouil.  I also interlined the outer gown bodice and 
put pieces of sprung steel boning down the front edgesworked great!
http://www.saragrace.net/saragraceUS/2A_Cost_by_sg.htm

 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 11:13:48 -0500
 From: jaur...@gmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
 

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[h-cost] Arnolfi gown - Hunnisett

2009-03-03 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I have this book and have looked at it for reference.  I am fiddling right now 
with the box pleat decorations...wish me luck! I wonder how many deep there 
are.  That sleeve looks wicked heavy and the wool I have, though fine, is heavy 
already.

Sg

 From: viv.watk...@virgin.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 18:46:58 +
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What kind of fur would you use for this?
 
 I looked up Jean Hunnisett because I remember her saying she had made the 
 Arnolfini dress.  She includes the dress in Period Costume for Stage and 
 Screen: Medieval - 1500 but doesn't say what fur she used.  You might be 
 interested in her comments, bearing in mind (as she always said) that her 
 costumes are for stage and TV.
 
 Viv. 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Breast Cancer Awareness: Quilted Bras

2009-03-03 Thread Saragrace Knauf

It'll be history some day!  Its is very cool - what fun!  Thanks for sharing!

 From: vm...@cox.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:28:35 -0500
 Subject: [h-cost] Breast Cancer Awareness: Quilted Bras
 
 
   This was sent to me by a friend, and I thought you guys would
 appreciate it as well. Not exactly historical (sorry!) but certainly
 important and worth sharing.
 
 ::Linda::
 
 
 
Members of Quilters of South Carolina have created one-of-a-kind bras
for Breast Cancer Awareness. The exhibit consists of 49 original works   
of art which are unique, entertaining, humorous, and beautiful to make   
the public aware of breast cancer, to memorialize those lost to the  
disease, and to honor survivors. 
 
Be sure to click on page 2 to see the entire collection. 
 
http://www.quiltersofsc.org/artfullbras/artfullbras.htm
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi gown - fabric

2009-03-03 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Hmmm, I think what I have  is a very fine twill wool suiting.  I just washed a 
four inch square and only got 7/8  shrinkage (only along the length).  I am a 
little worried that it won't be fuzzy enoughit looks so soft in the 
picture.  This, even when pinked maintains it's structure very well.

I washed the sample in hot water and dried it on high heatI know its 
wool...I burn tested itbut it just wants to look very neat and modern...

Ah!

Sg



 
 I thought this dress demanded a very fine, rather lightweight material
 in order to make the pleating work.
 

 Cindy Abel
 

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Re: [h-cost] [TheRenTailor] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-03-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

http://cgi.ebay.com/Muslin-Bum-Roll-Bustle-Renaissance-Fair-Pirate-SCA-SALE_W0QQitemZ330311003999QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item330311003999_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72:1205|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

Or go to ebay and search on 330311003999

She has taken mine down now and has taken someone else's image.
I have contacted that company and am exchanging emails with Ebays security 
stuff.

Sg



To: h-cost...@indra.com; therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com
From: wickedf...@msn.com
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:23:07 -0700
Subject: [TheRenTailor] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?



















Anyone know who this is?  She is using photos from various historic costuming 
sites (including mine) without permission.  I and several others have reported 
her to ebay and she has been extreeemly nasty about it.




Saragrace
















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[h-cost] What kind of fur would you use for this?

2009-03-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I am about to embark on a Arnolfi Wedding dress.  

http://tinyurl.com/creey 

OR

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG186

I have 12 yards of the bright green woolit weighs a ton! It looks like that 
will just barely squeeze by as enough.  

What kind of fur does it look like to you?  I am pretty sure I can't afford 
that much Ermineif that is what it is.

Unless it is REALLY good faux fur, I don't want to use it.  I am almost more 
inclined to use a natural color of velvet --thinking rayon/silk

What would you do?

Sg


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Re: [h-cost] What kind of fur would you use for this?

2009-03-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Really?  It looks white to mewhat am I missing?  I'd definately only be 
trimming...too frickin' hot otherwise.  

 
 I think she's wearing gris, or, the gray backs of squirrel with the white 
 trimmed off. Squirrel is a fairly low-pile fur, shorter than rabbit. An 
 actual squirrel skin is about $5 or so.
 
 Me myself I'd just trim with it and not line the entire garment (although 
 it almost certainly *is* fully lined with fur) and line the rest of the 
 garment with lightweight linen or something along those lines.
 
 
 Jen/pixel/Margaret
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[h-cost] Rabbit - was: What kind of fur would you use for this?

2009-03-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Someone told me that rabbit (and cat) are one of the few furs that sheds and is 
a terrible mess?  Anyone have that experience?

Sg

 From: be...@softwareinnovation.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 18:17:56 -0600
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What kind of fur would you use for this?
 
 I had a look with the zoom feature- you can almost see the links in the
 necklace and the stitches in that 4-layer head veil, but the fur is
 curiously fuzzy- I would think a pale type of beaver? Or if you could lay
 your hands on actual german angora bunny pelts, that might be a close
 approximation without the expense of winter weasel fur(with or without
 tails)
 Just my .02 Lira, Betsy

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Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-03-01 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Well, she did take it down!   I also had sent her an email telling her to take 
it down and that I had reported her to Ebay.  She hasn't responded to me at 
all.  

She has a different image now up - wonder if it belongs to her or not.

Sg

 Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 05:08:06 -0500
 From: cvir...@thibault.org
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?
 
 Got a response!
 
 I asked:
 
 *Dear witchesbrewha,*
 
 The red one looks rather different than the other picture; are the green 
 and white ones for sale also?
 
 
 And received:
 
 *Dear C,*
 
 smaller ones are for sale, I will remove the picture is is confusing people.
 
 - witchesbrewha
 
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[h-cost] Mary I ???

2009-03-01 Thread Saragrace Knauf

http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/Y/Q/2/mary_i_tudor_holbein_001a.jpg

Anyone seen this one before - the image name indicates it is a Holbein??

Sg
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[h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-02-28 Thread Saragrace Knauf


Anyone know who this is?  She is using photos from various historic costuming 
sites (including mine) without permission.  I and several others have reported 
her to ebay and she has been extreeemly nasty about it.




Saragrace
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Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-02-28 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Oops - www.ebay.com Ebay Item number : 330311003999
The second picture is a crop of mine:  
http://saragrace.net/images/Elizabeth/Farthingale/images/BumrollProgression.jpg
Yesterday it had the full image.

Sg

 Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:42:50 -0500
 From: cvir...@thibault.org
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?
 
 Saragrace Knauf wrote:
  Anyone know who this is?  She is using photos from various historic 
  costuming sites (including mine) without permission.  I and several others 
  have reported her to ebay and she has been extreeemly nasty about it.
 
 Alas, the link or attached example was lost -- could you resend?  (Am 
 now very curious!)
 
 
 --
 
 Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
 
 Rustic vacation cottage for summer rent on the shore of Maine!
 http://www.virtue.to/cottages
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Re: [h-cost] OT-Equus heads and hooves

2009-02-28 Thread Saragrace Knauf

My dad did a production of this many years ago.  I probably won't be able to 
explain it well. The heads and hooves were made from metal rod.   They looked 
like cages - all the rods running vertically - no squares.  The hoof parts fit 
the foot like a pair of skates and were at least a foot tall and were heavy 
enough that they could stomp them.   The actors wore all black.  If I 
remember correctly the eyes glowed - otherwise the metal was all black.

Eeery - perfect!

Sg

 From: pinn...@mccc.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 12:34:05 -0500
 Subject: [h-cost] OT-Equus heads and hooves
 
  
 Anyone have good sources/instructions/suggestions for making the heads and
 hooves for the horses in Equus?  I think I can probably figure out the
 heads.  It's the hooves that I worry about.  When you do chopines, how do
 you keep them on your feet? --that's kind of what the hooves are?
 
 Kate
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-02-28 Thread Saragrace Knauf

You guys are the best!  Tee Hee!

 From: ricka...@muc.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:23:22 -0500
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?
 
 I was about to do the same thing. Let me know what she says. ;-)
 Patty
 
 
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
 Cynthia Virtue [cvir...@thibault.org]
 Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 4:19 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?
 
 Oh, my!  Yes, that is quite a difference.   I in all innocence asked
 her about the difference between the two images; I'll tell you if she
 says anything.  ;)
 
 cv
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Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-22 Thread Saragrace Knauf

No problem - I ended up going back to some of my own research which meshes very 
nicely with some of the stuff in the links you sent.

Sg

 Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:54:17 -0800
 From: reginalaws...@gmail.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 
 I'm sorry.  I didn't mean to be snarky.  I hit send before I realized I
 didn't finish the thought.  The combo of garments suggests a generic
 medieval feel.
 
 There is a great resource of extant garments at http://www.kostym.cz/.
 
 I have to work up a outfit for my guy soon, and I will be using this site to
 help guide me to authentic styles and patterns, as it is right out of my
 period of study.
 
 Regina in L.A.
 
 
 Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:49:21 -0800
 
 That is S.C.A. A.D.2000, actually.
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Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Yes, I understand that - I posted the original image link.  I was looking for 
someone who could tell me what the attempted period, country was so that I 
could research it further. 

Thanks

Sg

 Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:49:21 -0800
 From: reginalaws...@gmail.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 
 That is S.C.A. A.D.2000, actually.  The picture is from an SCA Photo Album
 web page.
 http://sca.berkeley.edu/album/2003_00_and_previous_years/imagelist.html
 
 Ever,
 Regina in L.A.
 
  Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:11:36 -0700
  From: Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com
  Subject: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 
  Can anyone tell me what the guy in the blue tunic is wearing?  I
  guess that would be Rahim
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Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf







Ah ha!  That was what I thought - thank you.  One of the details I am 
interested in is the side kick pleat

The baggy trousers and boots might imply 
 the wearer is aiming for Russ Viking, but a Russ tunic would have wide 
 skirts rather than a split.

http://tinyurl.com/cjb8dt


 Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:33:15 +
 From: anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 

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Re: [h-cost] Gore training: was: What period/country etc is this tunic ?

2009-02-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf

No, not at all!  I appreciated all the help I can get!


Sg
 From: seamst...@juno.com
 Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 21:44:58 +
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gore training: was: What period/country etc is this 
 tunic   ?
 
 I find that putting simple gores in the sides of tunics tends to create the 
 look without any effort on my part. The type of fabrics used in this style 
 tends to have alot of body and the front and back pieces maintain their shape 
 (relativley speaking) whihc forces the gores to sort of fold up and look 
 'pleaty'. Am I getting too technical? :)

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Re: [h-cost] Gore training: was: What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Oh thank you!  That is very helpful - both the link to Marc's pages and the 
ifurther information on construction.  I am not sure I understand this sentence:

When you make a centre-split tunic, you just miss out the front and back 
gores. 

Thank you for the pointers!

 Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 21:38:00 +
 From: anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gore training: was: What period/country etc is this 
 tunic?
 
 I think it has just fallen into a pleat because of the way he has hiked 
 the tunic up into his belt, and the fact that the trim looks to be 
 stiffer than the main fabric, so it folds rather than gathering or 
 rippling.  It might also have a fold in the trim from how he has kept it 
 in the cupboard!
 
 The standard pattern for an early medieval tunic or dress (exactly the 
 same except for length) is a four-gore t-tunic, like the Nockert Type 
 1 on Marc Carlson's pages 
 http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html (be 
 warned, some of the links on these pages no longer work).  When you make 
 a centre-split tunic, you just miss out the front and back gores.  And 
 it's really hard to make the split hang straight.  You need the side 
 gores for movement, but when he stands still, the centre either crosses 
 or hangs open.  Tweaking it with the belt is the only option, and if the 
 front goes right, the sides will go wrong.
 
 Jean
 
 Saragrace Knauf wrote:
  Hmm, I can see what you are saying.  You'd have to train the gore to lie 
  like that right?  I mean when I put a gore in it usually doesn't fold up on 
  itself like that.  This  looks like it comes to a point on the outside and 
  the underlying fabric is tucked back underneath it like a pleat almost 
  creating a facing for the slit/point.  Now, on the other hand, I recently 
  draped some wool where it did just this.
 
  The only reason I am pushing the point, is I like the look but am 
  suspicious of the authenticity of the way it is made/looks.
 
  Sg 
 

  From: seamst...@juno.com
  Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:07:21 +
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 
  That wouldnt be a 'kick pleat'. The tunic probably has a gore(s) set into 
  the side seam. When it's hanging down, it can give the appearanced of a 
  pleat. 
   
  Karen
  Seamstrix
 
 
  -- Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Ah ha!  That was what I thought - thank you.  One of the details I am 
  interested in is the side kick pleat
 
  
  The baggy trousers and boots might imply 
  the wearer is aiming for Russ Viking, but a Russ tunic would have wide 
  skirts rather than a split.

  http://tinyurl.com/cjb8dt
 
 
  
  Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:33:15 +
  From: anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 

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Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-20 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!  I was beginning to believe I wasn't going to 
get an answer!


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[h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-19 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Can anyone tell me what the guy in the blue tunic is wearing?  I guess that 
would be Rahim

http://tinyurl.com/brvg4j

http://sca.berkeley.edu/album/2003_00_and_previous_years/2000_Spring_-__Tabling_on_Sproul_Plaza_-_From_left_to_right_Sarah__Moshe__Faisal__Rahim__H_Sm.jpg.3.html

Thanks

Sg
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[h-cost] Ikat - Was: Vietnamese loom

2009-02-08 Thread Saragrace Knauf

And it even is period in Europe - I am on my way out of town - I'll have to 
look for the pictures when I get home.  Seems I have a picture somewhere of a 
young boy in it in the 15th or 16th century Europeand of course later in 
the 18th/19th.

Sg

 Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 02:09:22 -0500
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 From: webwar...@earthlink.net
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
 
 At Sat,  7 Feb 2009 11:47:37 +1100, stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:
 
 ...You can vary the thread for colour as you go but, amazingly in Bali, I
 saw thread pre-dyed at various points so as to create a regular 
 pattern. I would
 give twenty zillion dollars for my brane to remember the term for 
 this technique
 but it is 115 degrees here and I am not about to go thinking. Still, 
 the pattern
 is fantastic, a little blurred at the edges due to the in-exact way 
 the pattern
 comes out.
 
 I believe that technique is called ikat.
 
 
 
 Brenda
 webwar...@earthlink.net
 Help support a cure for diabetes -- visit my JDRF walk page at 
 http://walk.jdrf.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=extranet.personalpageconfirmid=87065186
 
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Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available

2009-02-06 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Through Amazon.com...but you better hurry.  I only see two copies so far!
Sg

 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 08:20:48 -0600
 From: cschm...@genteelarts.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
 
  
 
 BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
 Lorina -  
 
   I've tried the links and I've tried to access your site
 independently to order this book. Each time I get an error message and
 get kicked out of IE. And there's no mechanism to order the book on
 Deb's site. Is there an another way to order or get more information?
  Carolann Schmitt 
  cschm...@genteelarts.com 
  www.genteelarts.com 
  Ladies  Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 5-8, 2009 

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[h-cost] Yahoo group: WAS: Pics of taffeta:

2009-02-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Okay, I am a rock.  I can't find the group on Yahoocan someone point me 
there?

Thanks,

Sg

 Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:44:07 -0600
 From: ro...@netherton.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pics of taffeta:
 
 ladybeanofbun...@aol.com wrote:
 
  I went onto the yahoo group that was 
  recommended, the one which has been established for h-list members to 
  use for posting and am still awaiting a confirmation or approval to the 
  group so... ready when they are to start loading the pics there so I can 
  then email the links here. 
 
 I heard from Danielle today; she noticed the influx of membership requests. I 
 expect she has everyone approved by now.
 
 --Robin
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Re: [h-cost] White/gold plaid taffeta:

2009-02-03 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I think I am not getting most of the related emails either...pooh.

Sg

 From: ricka...@muc.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:51:51 -0500
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] White/gold plaid taffeta:
 
 I'm not getting pictures with any of these.
 

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Re: [h-cost] Google Earth and art museums

2009-01-14 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Were you able to get it to work?  I tried the google earth link but just got 
the roof of the the prado.  BTW, I couldn't get to it just using prado museum.  
You have to add Spain to the search.

Sg

 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:25:13 -0800
 From: mary_m_haselba...@yahoo.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Google Earth and art museums
 
 I saw this today and it sounds like it would be cool for historical costume 
 research based on paintings. So far it is only 1 museum and 14 paintings but 
 the article implies they'll add more eventually. 
 
 http://tech.yahoo.com/news/ap/20090113/ap_on_hi_te/eu_spain_google_art
 
 Spain's Prado Museum has teamed up with Google Earth for a project that 
 allows people to zoom in on the gallery's main works — even on details not 
 immediately discernible to the human eye.
 
 Cheers,
 Mary / Slaine
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Google Earth and art museums

2009-01-14 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I was able to get a super zoom by going to the Prado Museum's websitecheck 
out those pleats on Durer's self portrait.

Sg

 From: wickedf...@msn.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:44:30 -0700
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Google Earth and art museums
 
 
 Were you able to get it to work?  I tried the google earth link but just got 
 the roof of the the prado.  BTW, I couldn't get to it just using prado 
 museum.  You have to add Spain to the search.
 
 Sg
 
  Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:25:13 -0800
  From: mary_m_haselba...@yahoo.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: [h-cost] Google Earth and art museums
  
  I saw this today and it sounds like it would be cool for historical costume 
  research based on paintings. So far it is only 1 museum and 14 paintings 
  but the article implies they'll add more eventually. 
  
  http://tech.yahoo.com/news/ap/20090113/ap_on_hi_te/eu_spain_google_art
  
  Spain's Prado Museum has teamed up with Google Earth for a project that 
  allows people to zoom in on the gallery's main works — even on details not 
  immediately discernible to the human eye.
  
  Cheers,
  Mary / Slaine
  
  
  
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Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?

2009-01-08 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Thank you Margaret - if the other pictures are also just edged then these are 
fine.  I am going to pull my hair out...I know I've seen at least one - but 
where?  

Strong's book is so great - I used to have access to a copy - but have to get 
it through ILL - pain in the butt these days - just can't keep it long enough!

Sg



 Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 12:08:06 -0800
 From: mlys...@yahoo.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?
 
 I just happened to borrow Strong's English Icon, so I thumbed through it 
 looking for black ruffs.  There aren't any all-black ruffs, but there are a 
 few edged in black and a few more that are heavily embroidered with 
 blackwork.  I could only find three online:
 
 http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ThomasHoward1.jpg
 http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/FrancisSidney.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/blackmary.jpg
 
 If you'd like more pictures, email me privately and I'll see if I can get 
 them scanned.
 
 Margaret Roe
 
 
 
   
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[h-cost] Beading cord for lacing?

2009-01-07 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I came across some beading cord that looked like a great idea for lacing.  
Anyone used it before?  What was your experience?

Sorry for the crossposts.
Sg
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[h-cost] More black ruffs?

2009-01-07 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I was almost sure I had seen a discussion on this before, but am unable to find 
it in the archives of either list.
I have scanned QEW but not seen anything...so I figured I'd ask you.

I am looking for pictorial or inventory evidence of black ruffs -black lace 
would be nice.  1500~1600.

I found this quote from http://www.thelacemuseum.org/education/lacetypes.html

The portrait of Anne of Denmark shows delicate Flemish lace in considerable 
detail1.
A painting of Eleanor of Austria (1498 – 1558) by Thomas de Leu shows a
tight bodice edged with a border of very simple black bobbin lace,2
and one painted by Hilliard in 1575 shows Queen Elizabeth wearing a
shift edged in black needle lace to match her ruff. Ruffs made of
pulled metal of silver and gold were fashionable in this period but a
heavy black needle lace was often used instead.

I am not sure if these are the pictures:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Anne_of_Denmark_Gheeraerts.jpg
http://www.rci.rutgers.edu/~buckley/elizabeth1.jpg


Thanks, Sg
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Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?

2009-01-07 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Actually any of the below.  I have pictures of black lace trim on rebattos - on 
cuffs too.  I have pictures of black and saffron colored lace (a little later) 
but it is only on a neckline border and cuffs.

I am pretty sure I have seen a whole black ruff - I just can't find it!

Sg

 From: wan...@hevanet.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:11:52 -0800
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?
 
 Sorry, I'm confused.  Are you looking for entire ruffs that are black.  Made
 from black fabric?  Or are you looking for a ruff (colored or white) with
 black edging?  The edging would seem to be not uncommon, I just have never
 seen portraits of anyone wearing a black ruff for the basis.  What an
 interesting find if you do!  Please be sure and share.
 
 Regina
 
  -Original Message-
  From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
  Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
  Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:45 PM
  To: therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com; h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: [h-cost] More black ruffs?
 
 
 
  I was almost sure I had seen a discussion on this before, but am
  unable to find it in the archives of either list.
  I have scanned QEW but not seen anything...so I figured I'd ask you.
 
  I am looking for pictorial or inventory evidence of black ruffs
  -black lace would be nice.  1500~1600.
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Phrygian cap pattern?

2009-01-03 Thread Saragrace Knauf

This may be superfluous, but it seems to me that there was a pretty extensive 
discussion about this hat and the rosette on it a few years ago.  If you are 
interested, you can probably search the archives.

Sg


Happy New Years to you all!


 Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 12:33:31 +
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 From: s...@suziclarke.co.uk
 Subject: [h-cost] Phrygian cap pattern?
 
 
 Happy New Year to all.
 

 Suzi
 
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Re: [h-cost] Movie costumes

2008-12-30 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Is it out on video yet?  I could capture images - I can rent it from netflix.  
BTW - where are you in Iowa - I was born and raised (for awhile) in Iowa City.

Sg

 From: lando...@netins.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 07:27:54 -0600
 Subject: [h-cost] Movie costumes

 Any tips on a photo, detailed illustration or inside knowledge of a pending 
 pattern publication would be appreciated.  My daughter is playing with the 
 idea of making it for a prom dress.
 
 Denise
 Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] Italian sleeve question

2008-12-30 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Wow, I have never seen this picture before.  Very cool.
I think the cartridge pleating approach would workthat is a lot of work to 
embroider firstI wonder if you could paint a pattern of fabric??

As for the chemise, a pleater would make that easy work


Sg




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[h-cost] Martial Arts/Yoga Pant pattern?

2008-12-19 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I am looking for a pant pattern to go with Folkwear Pattern 114 - I am making 
these for a friend who will use them for Thai Chiany suggestions for a pant 
pattern?  I am considering these:  http://www.folkwear.com/112.html

Sg
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[h-cost] Straw Helmet

2008-12-17 Thread Saragrace Knauf







http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/ho_32.132.htm#

Browsing the met stuff, found this.  Too cool!

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume

2008-12-16 Thread Saragrace Knauf

My mistake, I was looking at this 
page:http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=cyclopedia%20costume
and read ...commencement of the Christian era to the accession of George the 
Third (Volume 2, Pt.1) My eyes and brain read Third Volume


Sg

 Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 14:59:15 -0600
 From: ro...@netherton.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume
 
 Saragrace Knauf wrote:
  The online version lists at least 3 volumes
  Sg
 
 What am I missing? I downloaded a 30MB .pdf. It ends abruptly at p.272 
 midsentence.
 
 The title page says IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. THE DICTIONARY. That's 
 consistent with WorldCat listings that say Vol. 1 is the dictionary and Vol. 
 2 
 is a general history.
 
 A few pages later, there's a note to subscribers (presumably people who 
 would have paid in advance and received the work in sections) noting that 
 they 
 should save the illustrations for binding with the General History, for the 
 illustration of which they were specially designed. However, for those who 
 prefer dividing the plates, there's a suggested placement for eight of the 
 illustrations within the Dictionary. The last of them is to go across from p. 
 499, so obviously I'm missing almost half of the book, or more.
 
 Did I miss downloading another file?
 
 --Robin
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[h-cost] Cyclopdedia of costume

2008-12-15 Thread Saragrace Knauf

http://www.archive.org/details/p1cyclopediaofco01planuoft

I was reading the OED word of the day and saw this reference.  You can tell 
from the archive that it has been downloaded ~ 300 times, so I am sure some of 
you have already seen it.  But it was new to me and has some really fun 
drawings in itlike check out the drawing of the liripipe hood.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume

2008-12-15 Thread Saragrace Knauf

The online version lists at least 3 volumes
Sg

 Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:55:43 -0600
 From: ro...@netherton.net
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cyclopedia of costume
 
 Chiara Francesca wrote:
  This is one of my favorite costuming book collections!
  
  Thanks for the heads up. I have been trying for years to save up enough for 
  all 4 volumes. :)
 
 Are you certain you're thinking of the same book? Every edition I've seen of 
 Planche's Cyclopedia is two volumes (sometimes rebound as one volume). I 
 still 
 find this on open stacks sometimes, esp. at old city or college libraries.

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Re: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?

2008-12-06 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I missed a few posts.  I am not sure which era you are looking for for 
examples; but here is one:
http://saragrace.net/html/Arabella/Arabella.htm

This has been a favorite of mine for years.  I will make it someday!!!




 
 There is the dress described in 'Costume in detail 1730-1930' as being a
 Purple-black satin with matching gauze overdress, dating from the 1830's,
 and
 Currently in the Snowshill collection. That's quite a lovely dress (imnsho).
 
 There's also (and this is from memory as it's been a while since I looked at
 a
 Copy) a mention in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes' about a short trend in the
 1660's
 For women to wear 'sheers' over their gowns (it was memorable for the quote
 from
 Charles II saying that he would be quite happy for the ladies to wear
 nothing
 Else). I've never seen any other evidence for this, particularly pictorial
 evidence,
 And I've always been quite curious as to whether it was true or not, and
 what such
 A thing might look like, given that the style of the time was quite rigid
 and structured.
 
 Claire

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Re: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?

2008-12-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Is it really stiff - could the stiffness be washed out?  And is it a deep 
violet?  I wonder if you couldn't do something from the 
Directoire/Empire/Regency period with it.  I worked on an extant one that was 
bright saffron!  Some of those gowns had trains, which I am sure could be made 
to be removable if you didn't want to be dragging that around all the time.

Sg

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 23:28:24 +1100
 Subject: [h-cost] What can I do with this fabric?
 
 Hi everyone,
 I've been trying to cull some stuff from my fabric stash and I've hit a
 fabric that I love and would like to keep but I can't think of a use for it.
 It's a silk/cotton blend voile (it basically looks and behaves like cotton
 voile I think it's about 20% silk) in violet. From memory it's 130cm (52)
 wide and I have about 8-10 metres (I can't remember exactly how much but I
 remember I bought the remainder of the roll and I thought it would be enough
 for a decent gown).
 Anyway, my original plan was a Victorian (probably 1850s-60s) sheer dress
 but I so far I haven't seen evidence for a solid colours (not counting
 white) in sheer cotton dresses of that period. 
 So what would you do with this? I'm open to just about any pre 1900
 suggestions but I don't want to have to stretch the historic accuracy too
 much and I'd prefer to use the whole piece in one project (little fiddly
 projects are the reason I've never been tempted to try quilting).
 
 Elizabeth
 ---
 Elizabeth Walpole   
 Canberra, Australia 
 http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
 
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Re: [h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein Look....Costume Journal Vol 42...

2008-10-20 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Much as I'd love to share, it is a no, no.  You could probably order a copy of 
the article through interlibrary loan.  



 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein LookCostume 
 Journal  Vol 42...
 Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 10:41:16 -0700
 
 Unfortunately for some of us we do not have that journal in our hands. Is 
 there any way to share the images she refers to?
 
 ♫
 Chiara Francesca
 

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[h-cost] Layering in pursuit of the Holbein Look....Costume Journal Vol 42...

2008-10-19 Thread Saragrace Knauf







Hi guys...I sent this to another group in hopes of having a discussion on it, 
but haven't heard a peep from anyone thereso sorry for the cross posts

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Layering in pursuit of the Holbein LookCostume Journal Vol 42...
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:52:25 -0700

Hi all, I was just reading the article in The Journal of the Costume Society, 
Vol 42, 2008.  I am hoping to generate some discussion but also hoping to hear 
from the authors...Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson and Ninya Mikhaila.

My first question is from Figure 6 on page 27.  I just want to confirm what I 
think I see.  I think the wearer is wearing in this (order) a smock, then a 
kirtle (no stiffening?) then a partially boned pair of bodies which looks like 
an 'un-strapped' version of the Pfalzgrafin Dorothea Sabina Von Neuberg's  
corset which is cut off  (just at?) the nipple. 

My second question, is how does one differentiate between a petticoat and a 
kirtle, (assuming both have attached bodices).  Is it just that the kirtle is 
'done' in a fashion fabric?  

Thanks!

Sg


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Re: [h-cost] hongreline

2008-10-10 Thread Saragrace Knauf
This is interesting!  I tried to look the word up in the Grimm German 
Etymological dictionary and didn't find a thing...then it occurred to me that 
it probably wasn't spelled the same...as the German word for Hungary is Ungarn. 
   Still no luck  The line part of the word is probably a derivation of 
lein which is a diminutive.  So something like little Hungarian [Jacket].   
(Like brüstlein is the one word for corset/stays) 


I will forward the question on to my German costuming list because there are 
several people there with better resources than I.  (I am assuming that will be 
okay - if not, you can yell at me  :).)  I will also attempt to find it in Max 
Von Boehn's works since I have them in German.

Sg




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Re: [h-cost] hongreline

2008-10-10 Thread Saragrace Knauf



The dictionary just happens to be a BIG project the Grimm brothers worked on.  
It is still the standard for German etymology.  No connection to the fairy 
tales.  

I am not sure there is a connection between the  line/lein  endings...I just 
thought there might be because someone said that it was brought back (from 
Hungary) by the Germans  Sometimes you can actually find the connection 
between the languages because of the similartity.  Kind of like verdingale and 
farthingale. 

Here is what my buddy Katherine had to say from the German list:
(If you would like the line drawings from the dictionary, I am sure Katherine 
would oblige)
Not German, French!
 
 
Hongreline (s.f.) La hongreline fut une sorte de surtout porté au début du
XVIIe siécle par-dessus le pourpoint.  Elle était à peu près ajustée;
d'abord les manches, non cousues aux entournures, y étaient liées par des
aiguillettes, puis elles firent corps avec le vêtement d'hiver, bordé et
même doublé de fourrure.  Les femmes portérent jusque sous Louis XIV, des
hongrelines à manches et à basques, mais non fourrées.
 
[Hongreline (feminine) The hongreline was a sort of overdress worn at the
beginning of the 17th century over the pourpoint.  It was a little
tailored, mostly in the sleeves, which were not sewn into the armholes,
and were tied in with aglets, added to the body of the garment for winter
wear, bordered or even lined with fur.  Women wore this into the reign of
Louis XIV, with sleeves and skirts, but not furred.] (translation mine)
 
From: Dictionnaire du costume et de ses accessoires, des armes et des
étoffes, des origines à nos jours. Achevé et réalisé sous la direction de
André Dupuis. Préf. de G.G.-Toudouze.
Author: Leloir, Maurice, 1853-1940.
Publication: Paris, Gründ [1961, c1951]
 
The Dictionary has some line drawings that will help the person with the
query.  The garment is similar to:
 
http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/BRGPOD/259768~Constantijn-Huygens-Posters.jpg
 
The red garments here are also similar:
http://www.artsmia.org/mia/e_images/10/mia_10450e.jpg
 
SG, drop me a note off line if you want more details.
 
Katherine



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Re: [h-cost] sewing machine woes - OT

2008-10-08 Thread Saragrace Knauf



I am glad to see that I am not the only one that :1.)  Sews on vintage machines 
(almost exclusively)2.) Can't get dates straight3.) Always over committed when 
it comes to costuming.4.) Can justify one more book or butt load of fabric.I 
just had a vintage machine revelation - I bought a 1960's vintage Kenmore a 
few years back because it was very much like the one my dad taught me to sew 
on.  It is a solid workhorse.Problem was it had a removable piece on the 
throat plate which allowed you to sew with just a hole  straight stitching or 
a slot  for zig zagging.  The thing rattled around and I broke tons of pins and 
needles, and finally just knocked the whole machine out of whack. (After I had 
just brought it home from the shop for its annual maintenance.)I joined a 
sewing machine repair yahoo group hoping for someone to tell me there was a 
solid  throat plate replacement.  All I got back was a bunch of admonishment 
for sewing over pins.  G.Then today, some blessed p!
 erson wrote me privately to inform me that that I had the removable plate in 
upside downand that once I turned it over, I could sew over pins without a 
problem!!!  I have been vindicated Sew  Yes I understand you perfectly 
Alex!! We are two peas in a pod!Sg Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 09:06:10 -0500 From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine 
woes  Just because I know that most of you will understand I am whining 
here.  Earlier this year on my 1952 vinatage Pfaff sewing machine I noted 
the belt was separating, not surprising when you consider it was last 
replaced prior to 1980, if ever.  I looked up a place on line and ordered a 
replacement, and my separating belt continued to work in the meantime.  I 
installed the new wone when it arrived and everything was good without a break 
in usage.  This weekend when I was pressed for time when I found the four 
piece ensemble for my son's renn faire excursion was due next wee!
 kend, not next month as I had thought, and I have a another s!
 uch ensemble for a friend's halloween costume, and there's an SCA event 
between here and there that I need to put together a few things and ...and... 
That's when I noticed that the replacement belt had bits of the outer plastic 
crumbling off.  I continued through the shirt and found I was having trouble 
getting the machine to work, the belt wasn't able to maintain the tension 
needed to run the machine.  uuurggg  Fortunately, the local shop 
believes they have the belt I need in stock and my son has the time off to go 
and take the picture of the machine and the bad belt in to get the right 
replacement, so everything should work out just fine.  It's just that I had a 
belt that lasted for at least 25 years, probably 55 years and a simple 
replacement only lasted 8 months.  And those 8 months weren't heavy usuage 
months either.  alex taking a deep breath and getting ready to finish that 
Waffenrock tonight, so everything should be fine...  --  I'm buy!
 ing this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to 
suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito 
infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday...  ;) 
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Re: [h-cost] sewing machine woes - OT

2008-10-08 Thread Saragrace Knauf

Sorry about the previous postit ran everything together.  I know I wouldn't 
have read it that way!


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sewing machine woes - OT
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 07:22:23 -0700










I am glad to see that I am not the only one that :
 Sews on vintage machines (almost exclusively) Can't get dates straight Always 
over committed when it comes to costuming.Can justify one more book or butt 
load of fabric.
I just had a vintage machine revelation - I bought a 1960's vintage Kenmore a 
few years back because it was very much like the one my dad taught me to sew 
on.  It is a solid workhorse.

Problem was it had a removable piece on the throat plate which allowed you to 
sew with just a hole  straight stitching or a slot  for zig zagging.  The 
thing rattled around and I broke tons of pins and needles, and finally just 
knocked the whole machine out of whack. (After I had just brought it home from 
the shop for its annual maintenance.)

I joined a sewing machine repair yahoo group hoping for someone to tell me 
there was a solid  throat plate replacement.  All I got back was a bunch of 
admonishment for sewing over pins.  G.

Then today, some blessed person wrote me privately to inform me that that I had 
the removable plate in upside downand that once I turned it over, I could 
sew over pins without a problem!!!  

I have been vindicated 

Sew  Yes I understand you perfectly Alex!! We are two peas in a pod!

Sg










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Re: [h-cost] Double-sided velveteen

2008-10-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Bad girl Joan!  My fingers are starting to twitch towards my credit card.  
Looks loverly!  The colors are goregeous.  I'd order a swatch, or a small piece 
and wash it in the wash machine...it makes a BIG difference with 100% 
velvet/teen.

Sg



 Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 21:35:05 -0700
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Double-sided velveteen
 
 I just received my regular email from fabric.com.  They are having a 
 sale on double-sided velveteen.  Here's the 
 URL: 
 http://www.fabric.com/CategoryDetail.aspx?CategoryID=f77efb13-f39f-4057-949e-6aaef12352be
 
 It might well be too heavy for clothes, though.  Has anyone used this 
 fabric before?
 
 
 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
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[h-cost] Looking for bad examples of costuming...

2008-10-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf



Okay, this is weird request I know.  I have someone who wants me to make her a 
sort of  accurate gown -
This is an example of what she is looking for:
http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-versailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm

Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a 
medical condition. 
I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right 
undergarmentsbut I was looking for some examples I might show her.

So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper 
undergarments.  Even if the style isn't the same - 

I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper 
undergarments:

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm

Thanks,

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Looking for bad examples of costuming...

2008-10-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf
I am looking for pictures to persuade her it is a bad idea.  I would really 
like to distance myself from doing anything that is that grossly wrong - but 
she seems interested in learning how to sew --- so I don't want to dissuade her.

I should have said also, that I understand someone not posting a link 
publicly...if you have something you would like to share, feel free to contact 
me off-list.

Thanks, Saragrace


 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 20:45:08 +
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for bad examples of costuming...
 
 sorry to be dense, but are you looking for pictures to persuade her it is a 
 bad idea, or pictures to work from to try to accede to her request? 
 
 You might get by with partially boning the bodice of the dress itself or 
 something. 
 Darn -- Moresca.com has taken its site down for repairs; I remember them as 
 having pictures of women both in and out of corsetry in both large and small 
 bodies. 
 
 Good luck!
 Lauren
  
 
 -- Original message -- 
 From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
  
  
  
  Okay, this is weird request I know. I have someone who wants me to make her 
  a 
  sort of accurate gown - 
  This is an example of what she is looking for: 
  http://www.azacdesign.com/items/clothing/custom-special-order-clothing/lady-vers
   
  ailles-gown-lvg-detail.htm 
  
  Problem is, is she is a size 28, and doesn't want to wear corsetry due to a 
  medical condition. 
  I have explained the whole - it isn't going to look right without the right 
  undergarmentsbut I was looking for some examples I might show her. 
  
  So I am looking for pictures of larger women who may not be wearing proper 
  undergarments. Even if the style isn't the same - 
  
  I showed her this as an example of a larger woman who was wearing proper 
  undergarments: 
  
  http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/exhibitions/past/holbein_400.htm 
  
  Thanks, 
  
  Sg 
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Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)

2008-10-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Yes, I have explained that to to her.  I have suggested just a firm under 
bodice (ala' Elenora of Toledo).  We will see where that goes. 
She has a gastritis problem that plagues her...

I really appreciate all  the folks who have explained some of their issues.  It 
really kicks me in the hiney, to remember that there are lots of legitimate 
reasons for wanting to dress up with some limitations...

Sg


 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 22:56:26 +
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)
 
 Oh, Kate, I am so sorry! 
 Your situation, though, also leads to another question for me: If Saragrace's 
 client cannot wear a corset for any of these reasons, how uncomfortable is 
 she going to be in the gown she's chosen without one? For me, the corsetry is 
 helpful in *supporting* that kind of skirtage; without it, you've got a ton 
 of skirt pulling on you. 
 My main corset problems are asthma/allergies and fat. On a bad day -- humid, 
 smoky, moldy, polleny -- it can just be one thing too many to fight against 
 the stays to breathe. The better the stays fit the less of  a problem it is. 
 Saragrace -- I assume you have the whole, stays are not that uncomfortable, 
 and before the 19th century tight-lacing was not the point song and dance by 
 heart? I know some large women who surprise themselves by *liking* stays. 
 Lauren
 -- Original message -- 
 From: Ailith [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
  I can no longer wear my beloved Italian gowns because I simply can't bear 
  the 
  constriction of a corset. I have nerve damage due to Guillain-Barre 
  Syndrome. 
  Just wearing a bra is torturous for me. :-( I'd give a lot to be able to 
  wear 
  my gowns again. 
  
  Kate 
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

2008-09-30 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Mace Windu outfit for my 9 year old nephew and furry lion for my 4.5 year old 
nephew.on the back burner - schaube.

Sg



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[h-cost] Great site!

2008-09-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Sorry for the cross posts.  I just came across this site and thought the work 
was really wonderful.http://www.in-nova-corpora.ch/index.htm

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[h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain

2008-08-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf
http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf My friend Camilla Louise 
Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy
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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 16th-century Mechanical doll

2008-08-14 Thread Saragrace Knauf
That is really cool.  I'd sure like to see more detailed pictures.
Sg



 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:37:39 -0400
 Subject: [h-cost] Fwd:  16th-century Mechanical doll
 
 
 
 Begin forwarded message:
 
  From: Jocelyn Hinkle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  I was browsing the Kunsthistoriches Museum collection and ran  
  across this
  mechanical doll
  http://www.khm.at/staticE/page1808.html
  Mid 16th century
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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 16th-century Mechanical doll

2008-08-14 Thread Saragrace Knauf

It seemed familiar to me, but I don't know that I remember it being an 
automaton...  The fabric seems to be in excellent shape.
Sg


 Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:42:01 -0500
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: 16th-century Mechanical doll
 
 This lady shows up in some of the doll histories, but the photo and
 blurb posted are about all that's included - if that much
 
 alex
 
 On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 8:32 AM, Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  That is really cool.  I'd sure like to see more detailed pictures.
  Sg
 
 
 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:37:39 -0400
  Subject: [h-cost] Fwd:  16th-century Mechanical doll
 
 

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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: technique used?

2008-08-12 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Probably, but in this case I think you'd have problems with the serger seam 
showing through on the bottom.  The pin tucks appear larger than those made by 
specialized feet on most machines  But the seam itself could be done with a 
straight stitch...(but not too tight-might be too stiff)...and then pulled into 
the scallop shape  by hand

Sg



 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 07:55:42 -0400
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: technique used?
 
 For those of us into modern techniques, I understand these Heirloom  
 Sewing Effects can be done by serger.
 
 
 
 Susan
 
 Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness Carol H.
 
 
 
 
 On Aug 11, 08, at 12:09 AM, Chiara Francesca wrote:
 
  It is called Pin Tucking. Now a day's though if you want to find a  
  book on it they call it fabric origami. :)
 
  Remember those cushions grandma had in her house? That be what this  
  is, pin tucking.
 
  Very beautiful. I have one costume where the sleeves are made from a  
  scrap of fabric that was meticulously folded into a beautiful pattern.
 
  When I tracked the fabric down for more it was something like 30/yard.
 
  ♫
  Chiara Francesca
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:h-costume- 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Maggie
  Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 7:51 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: technique used?
 
  I've always had the idea it was pressing. Otherwise, I have no idea
 
  MaggiRos
 
  2008/8/10 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 
 
  I saw this painting at the National Gallery of Art today and was
  intrigued
  by the ridging on the under dress with it's parallel, wavy  lines.
  Was
  this
  done by stitching, and if so, how?
 
  _A  Young Woman and Her Little Boy - Image_
  (http://www.nga.gov/fcgi-bin/timage_f?object=1143image=2109c=gg21)
 
 
 
 
  --
  Maggie Secara
  ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
  ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
  Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback or your
  favorite
  online bookseller
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Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans

2008-08-11 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Hey!  There are a bunch of 'em!  This one goes through several 
kindshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbUyw3X1TcMNR=1



 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 19:49:21 -0500
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans
 
 I'm reading week-old mail, so my appolgies if this has been linked already:
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkpuxcNdGc0
 
 video of wrapping a turban. There is another called 'how to tie a turban' 
 that I didn't watch.
 
 Denise 
 
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Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]

2008-08-07 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article.  I read it 
last night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it.

Sg



 Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?]
 
 Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication 
 Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't 
 have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn 
 over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) 
 wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a 
 photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/
 
 I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can 
 think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a 
 turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two 
 layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the under turban; I don't 
 know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front 
 of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about 
 Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, 
 you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of 
 facial hair would also be a giveaway).
 
 
 
 Claudine
 
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Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?

2008-08-07 Thread Saragrace Knauf
My vote would be QEW.  It meets your requirements and has just great 
fundamental knowledge that seems to be becoming the standard.  The other book 
is lovely too, but if I had to pick it would be QEW.

Sg



 Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 06:07:56 -0700
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?
 
 Hi,
 
 I am planning to spend some money and I have a real dilemma. I am hesitating 
 between Moda a Firenze and Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked. I've heard 
 very good reference on both. I do not have any special area of interest, so 
 Florence or England are both interesting to me, but I would welcome a 
 detailed study with lots of large, quality photographs and also some tips on 
 reconstruction (patterns or details - fastenings etc.)
 
 If you could boy only one, which one would you choose?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Zuzana
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 www.sartor.cz 
 
 
 
 
 
   
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Re: [h-cost] Curious about headdress - Arabic?

2008-08-06 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Thanks to all who have responded and Sheridan I would really like to see your 
process.  I remember vaguely reading the article in TI...have to look that up 
again.  I wish I could have recorded and shown you which turban i was 
particularly interested in.  It was white and it almost looked like the fabric 
had been pleated into neat rows around the  head.

Sg



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Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums events

2008-07-26 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Read this book http://www.randomhouse.com/vintage/dunnett/niccolo/rising.html
and take a trip to Brugge.  It takes place there, and if you love historical 
fiction (and lots of characters and plot twists) you'll love it.
There is a description of how the locks work (in the canals) and you can 
actually go there and see it take place...I there are some windmills there too.

Brugge is cool just by itself, but also the home and chapel of Anselm Adorne is 
open to the public - beautiful and very interesting.   Right next door is a 
lace museum.  

Sg


 
 
 At 21:37 26/07/2008, you wrote:
 Ladies  Gents,
 H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
 directly: What's to do in Amsterdam  nearby?
 
 I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
 after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
 extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
 costuming, social dance  history from the early Renn up to and
 including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
 wearable stuff: castles, living history events.
 
 My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law  I are all engineers and some of
 the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
 wind mill works, science  tech museums are good fun.
 
 If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
 10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
 of town are also accessible.
 
 Got any great suggestions?
 Got any out there suggestions?
 Thanks for the help,
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 It's a very long time since I was in Amsterdam, but the city itself
 is walkable if you are fit and healthy - mostly flat. Most people
 travel by bike or by tram(?).
 
 The Rijksmuseum is one of the great museums of the Western world. I
 saw nowhere near a 10th of it I think. They have an excellent zoo,
 and somewhere near, there are, I believe, diamond cutting demonstrations.
 
 (And of course there is the Red Light district, but I think they
 have toned down the area!)
 
 Best I can do, I'm afraid.
 
 Suzi
 
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[h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain

2008-07-21 Thread Saragrace Knauf







http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf
 
My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy

Sg

Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume.

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Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society

2008-07-10 Thread Saragrace Knauf

A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766 in Costume, London, 
new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21.

Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source awhile back...can't 
remember who...
http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html

Sg

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
 Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
 
 Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet Arnold. 
 She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in 1766. I 
 only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut. What i need 
 is the year of the publikation. 
 Thankyou...
 
 Bjarne
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