Re: [h-cost] I forgot to ask, re Tudor Tailor
Ninya is somewhat active on the Elizabethan Costume group on FB, depending on their production schedule. They are working on another book for Tudor Stuart children, so she's been more quiet unless named. http://www.facebook.com/groups/29374273995/ It is a very active group and has researchers and costumers from all over, usually focused on the research info to share, but also has some more casual costumers as well. We have discussed aspects of the books, but we discuss all sorts of books, patterns, latest research, portraits, and other info. We are known as the EC Bees, btw, for how quickly we tend to find answers to questions, and how we share that info. It is a very friendly group. The patterns, at least the initial sets, are pretty much blow-ups of their book patterns and instructions. The paper is high quality, as I spilled pickle juice and had no problems with the pattern paper, although the cover and instructions got messed up. IMO, I think if you hate blowing up patterns they are worth getting, depending on your own preferences and skills. I'm in the middle of something, but will try to understand and answer your other question as soon as I can. Kimiko On Aug 17, 2012, at 11:58 AM, jaur...@gmail.com wrote: Does anyone know if there are discussion lists or forums devoted to the books? I tried looking on yahoo groups but did not find one, though someone had mentioned it existed. ... bunch of patterns available. Has anyone used them, are they basically blown up versions of what is in the books, are they worth getting if one has all three books? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor, Page 79
Greetings again, I have made this garment, in part from the TT book, along with a style change based on a different effigy image that Ninya had posted on the EC group I mentioned in my other reply. My outfit and a link to my dress diary can be seen in my web site here: http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/Embroideress/index.html Jane the fool, while working for a royal person, is still not a royal nor noble herself. She will be wearing finer fabrics than a wealthy merchant or lesser gentlewoman simply because she is receiving her livery fabrics from the royal wardrobe, but still has to represent her station in the cut and style of her garments, and amount of fabric given. The styles of the fitted English gown will be similar, but note the differences in the sleeves, and the partlet has been dropped as a separate garment, and is instead part of the body of the fitted gown of the later 1560s. A nice silk taffeta will work just fine for the rank you are aiming for, if a wool damask is not found. You can also use a cotton velvet/een, or a wool satin. I used a wool broadcloth that was part cashmere but it doesn't have the visual impact, looking very much like basic wool. I'd love to find a wool damask in my area for a someday gown. You will need to flatline/line the silk taffeta as it just does not have the right drape otherwise, not that the gown needs much drape. The bodice may need some interlining, but just enough to keep the shoulder to bust area fairly smooth. The kirtle can be wool or silk, or even a nice blend of both if you can find a wool/silk blend. Having some body to the skirt will be nice, and interlining the bodice for support will be very helpful. On my kirtle I needed some extra support, so I tried a hemp cord boning which kinda worked, and I am still tweaking with as my weight shifted. I also added a row of corded welting to my kirtle skirts, which has given it a little extra stiffness around the feet area so it doesn't wrap around my legs when I walk. One or two rows is all that is needed, and while it takes a bit more work it can be very worth it, especially if no farthingale is desired. I hope that helps you and your Baroness, Kimiko known in the society as Joan Silvertoppe On Aug 17, 2012, at 11:49 AM, jaur...@gmail.com wrote: I am going to make the outfit on page 79, which is described as Fitted English gown with plain sleeves,. Which is snip for length ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dyed Cloth from the Iron Age
On Jun 28, 2012, at 5:01 PM, Laura Rubin wrote: This from a bog body: http://sciencenordic.com/dyed-clothes-came-fashion-early-iron-age I can see why you did a double take on the houndstooth. Incredible that what survived, did so very well. And was dyed. Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] mid to late 15th century English women's clothing
On May 31, 2012, at 5:01 AM, Elizabeth W wrote: I'm seeking images of mid to late 15th century (Yorkist or early Henry VII era) women's clothing in England Like the others have mentioned, specifically English images are a lot harder to come by. There are brasses, and a few effigies, some of which can be seen in the Queen's Servants book you have already mentioned. If you want to cast a slightly wider net, I do have some images from France, Flanders, a few unknown artists, and Spain (only the ones that seemed similar to continental styles) on my web site starting here for women. http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/index.html Perhaps those might help give further clues. Kimiko A Gentlewoman's Accounts http://www.kimiko1.com Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern. http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/TudorLady.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions
I also prefer the all cotton threads, especially Gutterman. My sewing machine was prepped by my repair guy to deal with the all cotton when he asked me my preference, and for the most part I've had no problems with it. I can usually get all cotton at the local fabric chain stores. As to color matching, I no longer bother. I keep a selection of basic colors - red, blue, black, white, green, purple, cream/neutral, and medium grey. I use those to sew with. I rarely topstitch so it doesn't show. If I do plan on topstitching, I tend to use a color that will contrast, either a little or a lot, depending on what I want. This means I can usually get the larger rolls of thread, and I don't have a color that hangs around for years because I only used a small amount for a project. I think I got the purple only because my daughter likes the color for her clothes. Kimiko On May 17, 2012, at 8:11 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Ideas? I know some folks out there are thread snobs, but I just want something that's (a) available!! and (b) will hold up. A little (c) affordability and (d) good color range wouldn't hurt either. A basic, workhorse thread!! Second question: how do you match thread to fabric if you can't actually *compare* them in a store? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Coloured Tudor dress with a partlet
Hi Elizabeth, Well, velvet and damask was more highly desirable than simple silk, so if you had the choice between simple silk or buying some velvet and making a partlet from that velvet (maybe because it was all you could afford of the velvet), then you would wear the velvet. It is also possible that the velvet one is their best partlet so they wore that for their portrait, but may have had other partlets. I'd have to go read the inventory writeups (thinking the ones for Mary Tudor's would be more pertinent to your question), but the info we have on the garments is going to be limited. Dress in the Court of King Henry VIII didn't have much specific info on partlets, other than one listing for Henry having one made of satin. The write up discusses that there was inventory upon Henry's death that lists a number of partlets remaining, but no break down of what they were. I don't have the inventory book yet as it is darn expensive. Mary's short inventory has partlets made of purple tissue, cloth of gold tissue, crimson velvet, crimson satin, purple velvet, purple satin (turned up with purple velvet, I think), and a partlet of tissue raised with crimson velvet and lined in crimson taffeta. Some were made separate from the others (in satin and in velvet) with the rest to match their French gowns - usually the ones in tissue or velvet. Remember, this is the inventory of the Queen, so her colors and fabrics were going to be the most desired/expensive. I personally made a wool gown, and a matching wool partlet, as I wanted a matching partlet not a velvet one. IIRC, there are only a handful of images that I've seen where the woman wears a partlet, and yes it was either in velvet (maybe real black wool for Mrs Pemberton) or matching in damask. But that is of images that survived, and of women usually wearing their best for their portrait. I say if you want to make a silk taffeta gown with a matching partlet of the same fabric, go for it. There is enough evidence in the inventories to show that partlets were made of silk (satin) and not always velvet or damask/tissue/cloth of gold. Kimiko On Mar 1, 2012, at 12:17 AM, Elizabeth W wrote: This evidence leads me to two possible conclusions either the only time a partlet is not made of velvet is when it's a brocade or that if you have a coloured gown you make the partlet out of the same dress. So I'm hoping that either somebody else on this list has a better art collection than me and can provide an example of a coloured silk gown with a partlet or, failing that, somebody can make a good logical argument why one is more likely than the other. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] starch recipe
Thanks Rachel, I had wondered if rice flour would work or not - I get that all the time for tempura. Our local grocery supermarket carries it in the Asian foods section, as does the Asian food store in my city (Fresno, CA, USA). White box, red blue letters, Mochiko - Sweet Rice Flour. The particular company that makes the box I'm holding is only an hour from where I live. Kimiko On Feb 16, 2012, at 1:33 AM, Rachel Stimson wrote: way is to mix rice flour with water. You should be able to get rice flour at a health food shop, it is now available at most supermarkets in the UK but not sure about the US. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] starch recipe
Bookbinders use starch, so stores that cater to them usually carry wheat and rice starch. I can't think of any specific stores but a search should locate them for you. Sometimes Asian markets will also have rice starch as well. Kimiko On Feb 13, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Katy Bishop wrote: Unless anyone knows where one can still buy powdered starch. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did you get?
On Dec 25, 2011, at 11:45 AM, Lavolta Press wrote: What did you get? Fran I got The Queen's Servant, and Goldwork Techniques, Projects Pure Inspiration as early Christmas gifts. The first book had a lovely little notecard from Ninya Jane for helping with the book. I hope to use the info from Ninya's pattern this spring to make a new gown, and bonnet frontlet for myself. I hope to use the second book sometime to help make some embroidered costume accessories. I also have some gift cards, including for Joanns, which I am pondering just what I want to buy with them. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did you get?
If anyone is interested in a book review on The Queen's Servants, I've got one here on my creative blog http://kimikosews.livejournal.com/66429.html Btw, there is also The King's Servants for men's clothing of the early Henry VIII period that had been released earlier. The typical clothes worn by middling men during the decades between the battles of Bosworth (1485) and Flodden (1513) are described and reconstructed in this beautifully illustrated book. Kimiko On Dec 25, 2011, at 2:40 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: The Queen's Servants sounds interesting, as my husband has an interest in HVII period, and I am a Ricardian. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new book - Renaissance
That looks like an interesting book, although it is curious to see adult toys and boys as part of the listings on accessories discussed. Thanks for sharing this, as I was wondering what book to get next. Kimiko On Dec 6, 2011, at 9:54 AM, Janet Davis wrote: an interesting listing on accessories in the Renaissance: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer
So this was your outfit I was admiring on FB. Wow, that is nice. And yes, I would be interested in the tutorial. Kimiko On Dec 6, 2011, at 2:11 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: I will be writing a detailed tutorial on how to do this once I get to it. Would you folks be interested? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on Court Fashion in 1500
I would go from 1490s and move forward. I do have a couple of pages that have images from this time frame, tho my focus was more English than Vienna. However, the images do include Flemish, French and Spanish images as well, tho not the odder Spanish styles. http://kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1490/index.html http://kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/index.html And I'd go more with a hood, as seen in many of these images. The early French hoods are simple rectangles pinned onto a coif or some sort of undercap. I'd wire the edge to help it keep its shape. There are variations on this as well, including a more half-circle hood, and others. Kimiko On Dec 2, 2011, at 2:16 PM, Sharon Henderson wrote: If you were able to go back in time and visit Maximilian's court in January of 1500 and wanted to fit in, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Organizing Hanging Bag System?
May I suggest clear book bags already with a handle. Doing a search using the terms library book bags clear hanger I found a few different companies with bags that may work for what you need. I know when I get the funds for them, that is my plan. Kimiko A Gentlewoman's Accounts http://www.kimiko1.com Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern. http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/TudorLady.html On Nov 15, 2011, at 11:18 AM, michaeljdeib...@gmail.com wrote: I'm looking for a sturdy, clear bag that I can hang on a hanger, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Uniquely you replacement cover
They are the company I bought my own Uniquely You from. I liked them, price was best at the time, shipping was fast and no problems. But I'd also suggest making your own cover. Considering the work a friend and I put into fitting mine with their cover, and knowing the cover size barely fit the thinner me then, yeah, going to need to make a fitted new cover anyway. I'd suggest either canvas or twill to make a cover from. Kimiko On Nov 3, 2011, at 4:30 PM, Cin wrote: Does anyone have info, good or bad about this vendor? http://www.sewvacdirect.com/uniquelyyou-cvr5.html The price is pretty reasonable. I've never heard of them before. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] cotton velvet/velveteen?
I've not seen much on the softer colors, but another source for basic colors is here: http://www.syfabrics.com/Browse.aspx/100--Cotton-Med-Light-Weight-Velvet/433 Found this one doing a google search for the other store I thought might have the nicer velvets. I couldn't find that one, but this one is both retail and wholesale, with 2 pages of cotton velvets in a wide variety of colors. Since they have a separate upholstery velvet page, I presume this one is not, but best to swatch first. http://www.fishmansfabrics.com/chicago_cotton_velvet_01.htm Kimiko On Oct 14, 2011, at 3:45 PM, mhprobe...@gmail.com wrote: Can anyone direct me to a source for velveteen? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] cotton velvet/velveteen?
No, I was thinking high end more, but decent prices. A client had ordered from them, and it was the nicest velvet I had ever worked with. Soft, not too thick, nice pile, nice color that wasn't a jewel tone, and lovely drape. Sadly, I can't recall which store it was. And my old bookmarks have disappeared with a recent browser update. Bah! I'll keep hunting. And thanks for the link to Fabric Guru, I don't think I've shopped there before. Kimiko On Oct 14, 2011, at 4:46 PM, Marion McNealy wrote: Kimiko, Were you perhaps thinking of Fabric Guru? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Today, my dummy was wearing a finished SCA tunic for a client. It is now in the wash to remove the marks I made all over it. Who knew that simple rectangles could be so annoying at the seams. I've recently finished my middle class Elizabethans (almost all from stash fabrics), although there are accessories that need to be made up by 12th Night. I'm pondering working on part of those tonight, like redoing my Italianate smock to shorten the sleeves. So right now, poor Bessie Blunt is rather naked. Next projects will be the kids Halloween outfits. Relle wants to be Twilight Princess, her brother wants to be Link - not sure which version of Link, but he's got a week to figure it out as I start those after I get back from a local War. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Your focus determines your reality ~ Master Qui-Gon Jinn On Oct 4, 2011, at 1:44 PM, Cin wrote: So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] How did you find the h-costume list (was Where is everyone ...)
Hmmm... sometime in the mid 90s, not sure what date as the old files are on my old computer that died long ago. I actually found the group from a book about computerized sewing, weaving and embroidery stuff, with a section in the back on email groups and how the group of people could help other people with their problems. It had a list of several email groups, from h-costume to a weaving group to sci-fi/fantasy. I joined the h-costume group as I was involved researching ren-faire costumes for my scots group at that time. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Celebrate any progress. Don't wait to get perfect. ~ Ann McGee Cooper So here are the questions...how did you find the h-costume email list? And what year did you join? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sewing Apps
I have a Mac, on which I use Bento for a simple database program. On Bento, one can create Templates, and I've created at least one for historical and vintage patterns that I've shared on the Bento Templates area online. http://solutions.filemaker.com/database-templates/detail.jsp?serial=2551354 I think it is outdated since I haven't updated to their latest version, but it works for me. Bento can also be ported to an App for the iPhone, which I will do as soon as I can find the iTunes card I bought for buying apps. I am also keeping track of my embroidery supplies list on a similar template which I've yet to upload. Also, there are old fashion print-outs to keep track of fabric trim swatches. I offer a few different types here: http://kimiko1.com/largesse.html I prefer to keep my fabric and trim swatches on a card, as I'd rather be able to touch and see exactly what I have. While it would be nice to have them on my iPhone, the colors change depending on what sort of light I took the photo from. I also shop my own stash cards before I head out to buy whatever I may be missing, and then I will take the cards with me in a folder, if I really need to color match. Kimiko On Aug 8, 2011, at 1:08 PM, Franchesca wrote: I remember a thread about organizers for our computers for our stashes as well as an entire mailing list (or two) on this but I cannot find it now. Anyone have any PC programs that do all this? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
Maybe it was that so many costumers were at Costume College last weekend?? Would you believe that some of us are actually congregating on Facebook? Their new Groups format is actually making things somewhat easier to chat about Elizabethan costumes at least. Traffic and conversations ebb and flow with some days full of new conversations, and some days rather quiet. Some folks are heading to blogs, such as on old LiveJournal (LJ), when it is not under DDOS attacks from the Russian Government (which is why a number of new blogs are being formed elsewhere and there is less traffic on LJ than formerly). I couldn't tell you which blogs to join, as most are focused on a specific time frame or interest, and so it is up to you as to which blogs you want to follow. LJ helped to make all those blogs into a community, with easy friending, and community blogs, which is why I like being there. I am also pondering going to a different blog format because of the LJ problems, but will repost to my old LJ accounts. Some folks are going to Google+, but I'm still not sure if I like things there. Some may be hanging around on Forums of all sorts, but which ones I don't know as I don't do many forums. But I will agree that there is less going on with costumers in a variety of costuming mailing lists. I kinda miss that, but it seems with all the new technology out there, times change along with the various formats available to communicate with. Kimiko A Gentlewoman's Accounts http://www.kimiko1.com Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern. http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/TudorLady.html On Aug 6, 2011, at 12:37 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Where ARE all the costumers hanging out, if not on h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
On Aug 6, 2011, at 2:05 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: snipNo one else has to respond to keep the blog going. And the formats of Facebook and Twitter basically encourage announcements rather than discussions. I don't do Twitter, but on Facebook, there has been a lot of in depth research type discussions going on in the two Groups I'm a part of. Elizabethan Costume http://www.facebook.com/groups/29374273995/ (being able to discuss with Ninya, Jane, and Melanie among many others about different aspects of whatever photo we are discussing about has been very enlightening. I think it is the ability to add in a photo shared by someone, and then discuss aspects of what is seen in that photo, that really adds an element that is harder to do on an email list.) Historic Hand Embroidery (which I just started two days ago and it is pretty hopping right now, mostly on sweete bags and elizabethan coifs, but other era garments/embroidery is welcome) http://www.facebook.com/groups/156337781110182/ The new Group format allows for photo posting, some basic documents (but that is glitchy), and fast response times which can keep me on the computer longer than expected. What I found is that if you create a group, invite a few friends you know are interested in the topic, that people with interest in that group show up rather quickly to be included. You might search to see if there is a Group already created and of interest to you, or make your own for your own interests. If you make your own, I suggest making it Closed so it doesn't spam friends who aren't on that list, but leave the accepting of new members open to other members so folks can be easily added by other members (I may close mine in a few weeks to just the admins, or if we get someone that is a putz.) However, I also know that in order for me to actually Create the ideas floating in my head, I will need to spend less time on this computer, or those ideas won't get created. Maybe folks are spending less time online in order to Create? In late 2008 I was wondering whether people would costume more (more involuntary free time, because they'd been laid off) or less (because travel to events is expensive and I notice many people saying they are now skipping events they used to travel to). My guess is they are costuming less than before the crash. I am not sure that purchase of supplies is as large an expense factor as event travel. I'm seeing people on both costuming and mainstream sewing groups saying how glad they are for their fabric stashes to draw on. The friends I read on LJ, and the community posters, have all mentioned doing a heavy draw on their stashes for awhile. I know I'm still working more from my stash as well and only buying a few items to add finishing touches from my stash items. But while folks are talking about not traveling as much, they are still traveling to events dear to their hearts - so fewer events, and fewer shopping for new stuff, but the commentary about making things seems to be just as active, as is recycling old materials into new items that is also coming up more often. I know that folks at Costume College have plans for next year's costuming and are very excited from their ideas. So, to my perspective, people are still doing stuff, making stuff, just adjusting to this new financial situation best they can. Anyway, I really like h-costume because it is multi-era, and one of the more substantive groups. I'm interested in many periods. I agree, even if my focus is mainly on 16th century. I have always liked this group and have no plans on leaving. In fact, I've realized that I need to break out of the 16th c. rut I am in, and branch out into other time periods, including fantasy/sci-fi, which often has a basis in historical styles. Fran, I bought one of your books recently to help me do just that. I know I'll end up having questions on other eras soon enough. Kimiko The ordinary arts we practice every day at home are of more importance to the soul than their simplicity might suggest. ~ Sir Thomas More (1478 - 1535) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
I mentioned my two FB Groups that I enjoy. On LiveJournal, I've got too many feeds and blogs that I enjoy, but one that I think really helps feed the creative soul for costuming is DressDiaries http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/ It is open to anyone who wants to share how they created whatever costume or costume accessory they are working on. Most folks are cross posting from their own LJ or other blog, but it can be interesting and educational in seeing how folks create X, from historical to fantastical. Just follow the community rules in posting is all we admins ask. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Celebrate any progress. Don't wait to get perfect. ~ Ann McGee Cooper On Aug 6, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Maybe people could post links to their favorite blogs or other groups and mention what era(s) or areas the group focuses on? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
On Aug 6, 2011, at 2:42 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: But still, you can't post anything very long in any discussion. I'm a member of a number of Facebook groups, and I ran into their posting length limit immediately. Quite true. It is more suitable for back and forth short chatting and sharing of ideas, than long-length pontificating from one person, which is appropriate more for a mailing list like this, or a blog. I think one can use a Document for longer content but that doesn't go as well in replies it seems. But it does allow for edits from multiple people in the Group. Perhaps a Google+ account is more your style? It seems a cross between a blog and FB, and I don't recall reading there being a length limit to posts or replies. And no apps/games to distract you. You can also limit your commentary to those you decide to put into your Circle of friends, which can be whoever you want. I've not done much there yet, and there are problems there since it is in early stages, but it is an option. So much variety nowadays, no wonder some of the older methods are not so hopping. Kimiko A Gentlewoman's Accounts http://www.kimiko1.com Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern. http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/TudorLady.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Linen for dyeing
I am thinking you may want a firmer weave? If so, this might be more your type of linen. I am not positive, as I've not ordered from here yet to see just what their linen is like, but it has been recommended for use for embroidery on linen, so I am thinking it would be a closer weave than what is available at fabrics-store.com. At least you can ask for a swatch. http://www.churchlinens.com/linens.htm Kimiko On Jul 17, 2011, at 4:18 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Does anyone know where to get that medium-weight, drapey 100% linen that was used for vintage tablecloths, in cream or white and in a plain weave (not damask)? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 173 Debbie Reynolds catalog pdf
Thank you Debra for the file you shared. Kimiko On Jun 21, 2011, at 1:38 PM, Debra Brightwell wrote: Be advised, it's an 89 MB file so most email servers can't handle it. I have also posted a copy here but I'm not sure how long it will stay there. http://www.mediafire.com/?2lnw7w6heeo5j ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th c Headdress Help
Regina, Have you seen Cynthia Virtue's articles on hats? http://www.virtue.to/articles/ I think it would be under the Complex Women's Hats section Kimiko On Jun 20, 2011, at 11:53 AM, Regina Lawson wrote: The headdress is the Irish version of the heart shaped headdress. Any and all advice regarding construction or application (kputting it on) would be greatly appreciated. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Caryatid hairstyles reproduced
That is really interesting. I've the length and thickness, but alas, no one skilled in this. But it is a lovely style as seen in the models. I am tempted to get the dvd. Kimiko On May 31, 2011, at 11:06 AM, Lavolta Press wrote: http://rogueclassicism.com/2010/04/10/caryatid-hairstylings/ Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the Tudors deal of the day from Amazon
It appears to be a link to the Showtime The Tudors complete dvd collection. Normally I wouldn't click on lonely links, either, but my system stops me from opening virus pages before actually loading, and the link was indeed to amazon.com Kimiko On May 24, 2011, at 10:12 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042RJWTC/ref=xs_gb_AHTP3DW99WRAD?pf_rd_p=441937901pf_rd_s=right-1pf_rd_t=701pf_rd_i=20pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DERpf_rd_r=146WNTH3QRNHNTQ2M5QW ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] coifs
No, don't change your notes. It is only listed on my web site, to show what a coif that may have been worn under a French hood might look like. It is most likely 15th century as the artist died in 1502. Kimiko On May 24, 2011, at 4:11 PM, Bonnie Booker wrote: That's the one. Guess I'll have to change my notes to 16th c. Thanks. On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 4:26 PM, Kimiko Small kim...@kimiko1.com wrote: Do you mean this image? http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/earlyforms/OctavienIllustration.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] loose gown
Oh, I see lots of nice, and some rather incorrect outfits in this movie clip. They've set the date of the movie in 1547, when Henry is old and about to die. His wife is obviously supposed to be Anne Boleyn (from the B on her necklace), who was killed by Henry's command in the 1536. The garments on the dancers range from Henrician to Elizabethan in styles. At least most of the women appear to have their heads mostly covered, and surprisingly in appropriate hoods of both English and French styles. The yellow loose gown is more Elizabethan with the puffed sleeves, about 1560s to early 70s in style. Loose gowns were worn all through that time period, what changed were the style of the sleeves, for the most part. Btw, are you on Facebook? If so, I can get you into an Elizabethan costuming group, where one of the members has recently posted a number of Dutch images that might be of help to you. Kimiko On May 23, 2011, at 3:23 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: I am still learning and studying loose gowns for the museum projekt. I love the loose gown in this film clip from The prince and the pauper: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMr5iS_51VA The coupple dansing right behind the prince of wales, the yellow gown with the short paned sleave. But i am afraid the period is two early for the projekt. By the way i think the costumes are very well made in this film, those were the hayday of costume moovies, “six wifes of henry VIII, and manny more. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
A kirtle is more the word for an underdress, with gown for the overdress. Confusingly kirtle, when used as a half-kirtle, can also mean a petticoat or underskirt without a body garment attached. Wide and narrow as terms suggest to me that some garments may have been made with some sort of farthingale (hoop skirt) (wide), or without some form of hoop skirt. Do you have any images to work from, or is it simply written documents? As to the ruffs, using an organza would be the easier way to minimize work later as it does have the spring needed - the neckband can still be in a soft linen for comfort. I also know folks using a monofiliment fishing line to the edges of a ruff to give that spring - in which case a nice light linen works nicely. In the period they starched it, but from firsthand experience I know that starch is a pain to keep up with, which non-historical costumers may not want to deal with. And welcome back Bjarne. :-) Kimiko On May 13, 2011, at 7:25 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: In some danish inventory lists, wich all are written in german ( it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. My question is, could a narrow dress be the same as the english word “a kirtle” Its hopeless with danish study of danish renaissance costumes, because nobody knows the danish terms for different costumes (costume parts) No danish words for anything except the major things like ruffs, cuffs and the like. Another question i have for you is: wich fabric would you recomend to use when i make ruffs and cuffs? They should be able to wash them often, and i thoaght about maybe using a synthetic fabric wich will hold the shape, and dont need to be ironed, or perhaps to use silk organza, as this also is stiff and keeps the shape. Any suggestions and any help would be greatfull apreciated. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Men's Outfits in Brueghel
I've been away for a few days, so I only saw this thread today. I've made a pair of the fitted hose as noted in the Tudor Tailor book, although I draped directly on the man's body, not using a pattern except as a guide to draping. Even using a pattern, it really needs to be fitted as close to the man's body as possible (especially in the crotch for the mans comfort), in order for it to stay on him without much need of lacing (although for some bodies, the lacing helps). The garment is made on the bias of the fabric, which in my client's case was in wool twill flannel, as twill that gives with strength to the fabric. It was lined in the upper portion only (not legs) with linen which made it comfortable to wear without much scratching from the linen. You mention the beer belly, which I didn't really have to deal with so I've no specific hints there. I would make sure it goes up to the man's actual waistline in the back, and if needed dip a little in front to a comfortable point around the belly. I don't know if your man is like most men I know where he keeps his pants/jeans at below the belly right off the hips (with that threat of revealing a bit too much in the back), but it helps the visual look if he will wear his pants over the belly. As to modern underpants showing, well, I guess that depends on what fabrics you used. The wool flannel twill I used didn't really show the client's undies, but other fabrics might. I am not sure the evidence of linen braes like were used in the medieval period, but that may be an option. I don't have any men's sites to help, as the one blog for men's clothing of this time period I know of, the guy hasn't written about breeches (at least not tagged as such). I hope this helps a little. Kimiko On Apr 26, 2011, at 12:13 PM, J A Urbik wrote: So, here is the question. It is obvious that the hosen have points to tie them up to(I assume) the vest that seems fairly standard. It is also fairly ovious(looks at the harvester painting) that the pants stay up on their own. HOW??? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cleaning real metal threads in fabric
Thanks for that link. I need to clean some silver and silver gilt embroidery threads that tarnished in the bag before they go onto a project, and had no idea how to deal with them. Kimiko On Apr 25, 2011, at 7:27 PM, Linda Rice wrote: Maybe this method? http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howtos/ht/silverdip.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, embroiderer?
Thank you for this link. I am drooling as I watch. Kimiko On Apr 17, 2011, at 5:33 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Royal School of Needlework, Hampton Court, on CBS Sunday morning today. Took some hunting but I finally found it: http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7363014n enjoy chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 15th-17th c. Textiles to Fondle for Storage Fundraiser.
This came across another group I'm in, and I instantly thought of the folks here. It is a fund raiser for textile storage and maybe conservation, but they are allowing folks who donate the opportunity to feel and view in person the textiles that will end up in storage. http://afashionableexcuse.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/save-me-15th-and-16th-century-textiles-in-the-philadelphia-university-design-center/ Kimiko Kimiko Sews dress diary http://kimikosews.livejournal.com/ Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern. http://www.margospatterns.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hoop storage (was (no subject))
Then I am glad I bought them when I did. But that does make doing this method of packing hoops more difficult. I wonder why they quit making them - as they were something Linda specifically had ordered to her specs. Thanks Margaret for the news, bad tho it was. Kimiko On Mar 16, 2011, at 9:04 AM, Margaret Roe wrote: As wonderful as Farthingales' Hoop Connectors were, they are no longer available (I'm referring to the Connectors, NOT the Hoop Steel Ends). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Hoop storage (was (no subject))
I don't have but a French farthingale I store right now, and that is flat enough I hang it on a hanger in the closet by its ties. It's support roll I keep in the box I store the whole garment in. At one of the classes I took from Linda Sparks of Farthingales some years ago at Costume College, she showed us how to prepare a farthingale or large crinoline so that the steel boning could be rolled up stored in a large zip-lock baggie. That's how she took her hoops on the plane. Basically, you shorten the channel tapes by a few inches where the steels are inserted into the channels, so they could be easily put in and pulled out. It didn't affect the way the steels stay in the channel. It does help to use the connectors that Farthingales sells, of course. It will require a few minutes of prep before wearing or storing the garment, but worth that extra time I think. I'm not sure how to work this with reeds used for boning. This is what I plan to do when I make my next farthingale, as my storage space is limited. Kimiko On Mar 13, 2011, at 6:01 PM, Laurie Taylor wrote: But I'll settle for asking how do you all store your hoop skirts or hoped petticoats or what ever term you prefer? What can be safely done to them to minimize the space that they require? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th c. man's waistcoat on ebay
I know the person who posted this link to the comm originally did send him a link to this on his lj. Otherwise, I would have. Kimiko On Jan 27, 2011, at 6:26 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote: I hope Bjarne is getting a look at this! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume con
Michael, Just go and have fun, and enjoy what it has to offer. Don't have to be an expert at all, just a person who appreciates good costumes. I've only gone once, hope to go again in a few years when it is near the west coast, and really at my first Costume Con that's all I did. Oh, and bring some money as there are vendors. Kimiko On Jan 26, 2011, at 2:34 PM, michaeljdeib...@gmail.com wrote: While I know a lot, I wouldn't call myself an expert in many areas. Any ideas/advice for a first timer? Michael Deibert ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 18th c. man's waistcoat on ebay
Hello all, This just came over a community I am on, and I thought folks here might be interested in the eye candy. The embroidery is what caught my eye. Not my period, so no idea if this is good or what. Just pretty. http://cgi.ebay.com/Georgian-18thC-finely-embroidered-waistcoat-Provenance-/360338397966?pt=UK_Antiques_AntiqueTextiles_EHhash=item53e5d79b0e The item is still available if someone really is interested. I just figured the photos would be nice to look through. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] (no subject)
http://thestylecloud.com/images/images.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
Sorry, the unmarked post with only a single link was from some virus or similar that came from this email address. The yahoo email seems to have been hacked or spoofed, and I will be moving to my regular secure email in a short bit, instead of my yahoo email. Please, if a link by itself is sent, it often is a virus, or a viral email. Please don't open the link as it might end up harming your system. I hope in this case no one's system was harmed other than my own (or yahoo, as my computer itself is still clean). Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: cora hendershot wheatgoddes...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, January 10, 2011 5:47:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] (no subject) but, if you manually enter www.stylecloud.com, you get a site on voting about food. Was this what was intended? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1620s jacket vs waistcoat
Thank you everyone for your thoughts on this question. It has both been enlightening, and a bit frustrating, but in some ways that is not surprising. Thanks again, :-) Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary
I think Margo is still on here, as I remember her posting something not too long ago. I remember joining sometime in the mid to late 90s, but I don't recall which year. I used to save off and print out the old posts to keep as a reference, but now I just keep interesting ones in its own folder. Thanks for the free access Penny, and happy anniversary. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, January 6, 2011 12:41:35 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary Are you sure Margo Anderson is not still on h-costume? As for Robb Shep, he retired years ago. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1620s jacket vs waistcoat
Hi all, I've been reading through the old Plymouth Plantation embroidery blog for their reproduction embroidered jacket, and they were talking about waistcoats and jackets, but in a way that made them seem interchangeable. I've tried googling their blog directly to see if they explain anywhere what the differences or similarities are, but all I found was one article that mention jackets, while the links themselves mention 3 waistcoats and 1 jacket. http://thistle-threads.com.mytempweb.com/blog/index.php/2009/01/new-jackets-to-view/ There was an earlier article where they said that the women would wear their smocks, petticoats and stays while indoors, but would not leave their homes without wearing a waistcoat or a jacket. I had thought waistcoats were like vests, but this is a time period that is new to me so I am not sure what they meant by waistcoat. Would anyone here be able to explain what the differences are, if any? Thank you, Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume-related holiday gifts did you get?
My family and Santa provided me with a few books under the tree today. Cool Couture by Kenneth D. King, so I can improve my sewing skills. I need to improve my piping if I'm going to attempt Victorian clothing, and I've never done a welt pocket and his instructions look good and doable. I also like his decorated tassle, which I've wanted to do for the end of a Tudor girdle. Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman. I can drape bodices decently now, but my skills on paper pattern adjustments for modern retro clothes are basic. I learned her shift pivot pattern adjusting method from a small article from an old Threads book of collected articles. But this book expands that basic info on fitting, including fitting for us plus sized folks. It was the pants adjustments that sold me, although I will find out how well it works in practice soon enough. I've also got Fitting for Real People for other fitting help, it's just the cut slash method they use that confuses me. And the beautiful Santa gift was the Italian renaissance paintings book Sunny recommended, with my heartfelt thanks. Virtue Beauty from the National Gallery of Art, Washington. Oh my what great images, many of which I've not seen before (and also didn't know to look). Many are in black and white, but the ones in color are large, and a few are closeup details, which just made this a wonderful book to look through. I can't wait to read and learn from it. Thanks again Sunny for the suggestion. I've also received a few amazon gift cards, so I'm trying to figure out what to get next. But most likely they will be embroidery illumination books, unless I pre-order one of the costume books coming. I hope everyone had a great Christmas, if you celebrate it, or at least a great holiday season. Kimiko Smallhttp://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tailoring supplies (was eek, quick opinion pls...)
I have a very old cotton velveteen cloak edged in faux fur, that started with a rayon lining which got shredded rather quickly (I think it was a cheap rayon, not the good stuff). I replaced that lining with a wool lining, and it was nice and warm. The back of the velveteen pile has been worn off, parts of the hem is now ragged, there are spots of ember burn holes, but the wool lining is still in decent shape, and still nice and warm. I wear it for Halloween as it has that spooky look to it that only time can create (or a good distresser). I've actually had a few larp friends offer to buy it from me, as is, for their own larp use, but I can't seem to part with it, as horrid a shape as it is getting. I've recently done a minkee (minky? - the stuff used for baby blankets and plush animals) fur lining in a Tudor gown that also keeps it warm in cold weather. That was chosen more for the fur look (the edge of the front is trimmed in thicker faux fur in the same color) than for any historical basis. It works well visually for what I wanted it for, and it is sometimes a little too warm. I am finding the minkee polyester is starting to hang low in the back, which surprised me. Not sure I would do this again, as wool seems to breathe nicer in regulating the body heat - but my area doesn't get super cold when I am outside. And no, I don't go near fires when wearing this gown, like I can with that ratty old wool cloak. Kimiko From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin audreybmo...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sat, December 18, 2010 1:52:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] tailoring supplies (was eek, quick opinion pls...) What is your favorite lining to use for wools? For any cloak that has even the slightest chance of being worn outside and/or camping, my favourite lining for wool is... wool! There's nothing better when it gets cold or rainy! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] taiioring supplies (was eek, quick opinion pls...)
A few years ago I bought the last roll of hair canvas at my local Hancock's, on clearance. It was almost a full bolt, as hardly anyone was buying it according to the manager at the time. I've got a little of it left. B. Black Sons is great for the tailoring supplies ( http://www.bblackandsons.com/ ). I went in to check the place out after last Costume College, and got some linen canvas to try out (worked nicely for my bodice, too). The gentleman gave me a free sample swatch pack of all their interlinings as well, so now I can order online and already know what each feels like. Next time I am also buying some of their fine wools as well. Man, how nice to walk row upon row of fine suit coat wools, and even fine shirting material that I've never felt before - nothing like what is in my local fabric stores. I think I need some of the shirting material as well, just to have one nice suit shirt when needed. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: annbw...@aol.com annbw...@aol.com Couldn't believe how hard it is getting to find hair canvas--Hancock used to carry it and I was shocked when I went to buy some several years ago and they didn't have it. ... But I haven't had to buy any of it lately, either, so I don't know how easy it is to find anymore. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tailoring supplies (was eek, quick opinion pls...)
For me, it depends on what I am making and the needs of the garment. Usually, it is a lightweight linen/cotton blend that doesn't stretch as much as 100% linen does, and has more breathability than regular cotton. Sometimes it might be a nice silk taffeta or silk shantung, but more often those are used as a facing on the inside where it might show, with the linen blend used as the main lining. I am not fond of really slippery silks for linings, but I am thinking about it for an Edwardian jacket on my future pile of things to make. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Franchesca franchesca.ha...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, December 17, 2010 10:53:36 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] tailoring supplies (was eek, quick opinion pls...) What is your favorite lining to use for wools? Franchesca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Have you checked out the GBACG Great Pattern Review for those patterns? http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/index.html I own the Laughing Moon pattern based on other folks' reviews, but haven't made it up yet so no personal review. Don't know about the others. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org To: h-costume-indra.com Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 2:56:35 PM Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com I have Moda a Firenze which covers Italian Renaissance costuming on my list. I've seen this book thanks to Inter Library Loan and it's wonderful. The other book on my wish list is lost from her majesty's back...just because it sounds interesting. I've never seen this book. Is it worthy to be on a wish list G? Julie I have the first book, and it is indeed wonderful. I also have the second as a set of photocopies that I've thumbed through a few times. It is an interesting read of an inventory nature, as it is indeed a list of items lost from her back. But at the price most places have it for, no, I would not suggest trying to buy a copy, unless you really, really are into the research aspect of Elizabethan items. If you can find it through ILL, I suggest getting it that way and taking a look at it. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
Thank you Sunny for the great book suggestions. That last one I hadn't heard of, so it went directly into my wish list.I have the Leisch book, but I need to get it out and actually read the book, so thanks for the reminder. The high priced out of print Italian books are on my ILL someday when I get serious list. I actually had a copy of the Herald book in my hand at an SCA event, for only a few hundred dollars... and put it down. Another person snatched it up before I came back to buy it. I guess it wasn't meant for me to own, as I really can't afford a few hundred for a book, but it was interesting to read parts of it. And it was so tiny a book, too. I seriously don't understand how folks price used books so high like this, but if folks are willing to pay... Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Sunshine Buchler sunny_buch...@sbcglobal.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 8:56:41 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking? Hi Kimiko! The time frames I am looking at are 1450-1500 Italy, and various aspects of the Victorian/Civil War era, in case folks have book suggestions for those. If you’re interested in Civil War day wear, I gotta recommend _Who Wore What?: Women’s Wear 1861-1865_ by Juanita Leisch http://www.amazon.com/Who-Wore-What-Womens-1861-1865/dp/0939631814/ref=sr_1_1?s=booksie=UTF8qid=1292258190sr=1-1 It’s a study of dress in carte de viste For 1450-1500 the best books in English (imo) are sadly long out-of-print and unconscionably expensive: _Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500_ by Jacqueline Herald _Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500_ by Elizabeth Birbari On the more attainable side there is: _Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo’s Ginevra de’ Benci and Renaissance Portraits of Women_ edited by David Alan Brown. http://www.amazon.com/Virtue-Beauty-Leonardos-Renaissance-Portraits/dp/0691114560/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1292258884sr=1-12-spell This is mostly an art book (with beautiful pictures from your period of interest) but there is one chapter dealing directly with clothing. _The Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525_ by Stella Mary Newton. This is very much an academic text book with few pictures (rather like Maria Howard’s _Rich Apparel_ ) I haven’t found it all that useful for my Italian costuming, but it is an interesting read. Enjoy! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
From: Onaree Berard msber...@gmail.com So, what book do you want? Onaree I think something is wrong with me. The only book on my current wish list, that is in print or available at the bookstores, would be Rich Apparel by Maria Hayward. Thing is, I'm rather burnt out on Henrician stuff at the moment, want to wander into other time periods, and am not sure what books from those time periods would be a good choice, that I don't have already, and not too expensive to buy. I also want to get into more embroidery, and have the books I want for that. So really, not much on my book wish list this time around. The time frames I am looking at are 1450-1500 Italy, and various aspects of the Victorian/Civil War era, in case folks have book suggestions for those. Happy Holidays to everyone! Kimiko Kimiko Smallhttp://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Uniquely You dress form question
Mine is only a few years old so I don't know how well it will spring back after many years compressed. On my form, I took a marker and marked lines at different areas around the breast, then took a large serrated knife to cut off the breasts so I could use it with a corset or pair of bodies. I then add stuffing a bit higher to mimic my own breasts in that higher position once the fitting garment is on. I put the breasts back into place, lined up with the marks I made so I can use it for modern fashions. I also added padding to the waist and butt areas to make it more me. While I am long waisted (why I love this dress form), I have that middle age waistline where I need that extra padding on the dress form. Make it yours is my thought. Cut where you need it, pad where you need it, and enjoy its squishy factor. My fitting has greatly improved, although I need to adjust the cover again. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Wilson, Annette annette.wil...@environment.gov.au Have any of you had any experience with reshaping one of these dress forms? If I leave the cover off, will the foam gradually spring back towards the original shape?? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: R.I.P. Carolyn Kayta Barrows
For those who want a face to the name, here is one of her from Costume College a few years ago, showing me one of her dolls. I only got to speak with her in person a few times, but she will be missed. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: penny1a penn...@costumegallery.com To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, November 8, 2010 4:34:06 PM Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: R.I.P. Carolyn Kayta Barrows [Penny Ladnier] Forwarding this about Kayta. She was a h-costume member for years. Kayta sure will be missed. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] For anyone who's already created a historically inspired party dress
Thank you Fran for letting us know. I've recently finished my ball dress so I'm going to give this a shot. I just have to figure out how to deal with the inspiration image, as that one is too small for their contest and I have no larger version. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ Or who can do it fast: You could win a new Bernina. Details at: http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/announcing-the-bernina-party-through-the-decades-international-competition?utm_source=BurdaStyle+Mainutm_campaign=ee2c71c9a4-Nov_1st_Bernina_Dedicated_10_28_2010utm_medium=email Fran Lavolta Press ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] For anyone who's already created a historically inspired party dress
It is possible, but not what they have listed in their rules. They want a decade or two, and even in the qa mention that historical or futuristic is fine (not in so many words, but among their answers to other folks' queries. They don't even have limits on what patterns are used. I figure it is worth a little bit of my time to try it and see what happens. Kimiko From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, November 3, 2010 4:11:10 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] For anyone who's already created a historically inspired party dress My guess is, since this is Burda, they want historically inspired modern rather than authentic historic. Though maybe steampunk or goth would count? Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sherlock
It depends on location as to when it aired/will air. I have to wait for Halloween night for the first episode! I've loved Sherlock since I was a kid reading all the stories, so I look forward to seeing how good or how bad this remake is. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Elena House exst...@gmail.com but is interested, it's a BBC series that will air on PBS starting Oct 24 at ...as Masterpiece Mystery, which explains why my DVR couldn't find it as Sherlock. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Greenberg and Hammer closed!
Oh, that really sucks. Thanks for letting us know. Kimiko From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] Greenberg and Hammer closed! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
Thank you all for your suggestions on this problem. The front is on a curve, so boning is not going to be an option, but I will remember that option for straighter seams. I did sew down hooks and bars through the round holes, and the area by the hook top. But I did not set it back from the edge by 1/2, only about 1/4, which might be part of the problem so the hooks will be moved. The bars were sewn on top of the underlap about a half inch from the edge, so I will move those closer to the edge. Because of the lapped parts of the bodice, I couldn't figure out how to alternate the hooks and bars. Both hooks and bars were sewn through the lining and interlining of linen canvas, but that seems to be allowing the silk top fabric to shift back a little. I may hand sew the layers together about an inch back to keep the layers together and see if that also helps. I am trying to get a photo or two uploaded of the problem area but that's going to take a bit of work, as I am also uploading the rest of the photos for my dress diary. I don't have a full shot of the whole outfit yet, as I took a few photos with the photographer, but he hasn't contacted me yet to get the photos ordered. Another person took a photo of the Fashion Show we had at the Ball, and you can see the me in this photo (the only female of the three). http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=481895455986set=t.1209547229 The headband was annoying, and didn't stay in place until I shoved it close to the hairline near the end of the night, which is why it is nearly in my eyes. Live and learn. Thanks again for all the great suggestions. I've really learned a lot about what seems like a simple thing. I'll post a link to my dress diary and photos a little later. Kimiko Smallhttp://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
I was told that the photos I linked to are not available. So I have uploaded them for a short time on my Livejournal album and made them public. http://pics.livejournal.com/sstormwatch/gallery/x2w4 Other photos will be noted later. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric swatches
The main wool swatch set I know of is in the book All About Wool : Fabric Dictionary and Swatchbook. It is a bit pricey, which is why I've not picked up a copy yet. I've also received some nice wool swatches from Wm Booth, Draper, which they can send to you on request. You have to email them, and ask for specific color swatches on the types you are interested in. I requested a few which they sent me for free. You could see about requesting all of what they have and what cost that might be. It doesn't hurt to ask at least. Sadly, their purples were too dark for my needs, but I'm still itching to buy some of their red/clarets. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Susan B. Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Does anybody have a wool set? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT RE: Semi Off Topic
Oh, there are interested persons on this list. :-) Kimiko From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net Just a note, I think there is a yahoo group site that deals with SCA items for sale, if you don't get any takers here perhaps you could try there. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sheer linen RE: Chemise pattern
I have some of that Joann's cotton/linen blend that I use for linings (it is rather limp, and I prefer 100% linen for smocks). Joanns seems to be phasing out this type of blend, as their online bolts were out, and all I'm finding in my local store at present is the linen/rayon blend which isn't as nice to use. If you can find it, snag it. I know I keep looking, as it is rather nice and soft. I think Bjarne also mentioned that his usual store was out of the really nice linen at the time and he was looking for another source. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ Bjarne posted it long ago and I knew I didn't have the funds then or have it in the future so I didn't save it. ... snip I have found at Jo Ann's a cotton/linen blend that came very close to the chemise weight. I think it is called tissue linen. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Prym/Dritz dress forms
I'm with the group that says get a Uniquely You, or a similar squishable, shapeable dress form. The hard ones like the Dritz form, which I did buy first (actually it was a birthday gift from my hubby), will not be shaped like you unless you do some major padding up from a smaller form. Mine never could be like me, as I have a long torso, and even padded it could not get longer in the middle - which meant its minimal behind was several inches higher than my behind. My old Dritz is now in the garage waiting for a yard sale, while I am now very happy using the UY. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com My local Hancock Fabrics is having a sale with Prym/Dritz dress forms (the Twin Fit and My Double models) at $40 less than the usual price. I've never had a dress form, and I'm wondering whether to take advantage of this sale. Does anyone here have this kind of dress form? Is it good quality, or not worth bothering with? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FW: [Alderfolk] Fashion Crisis!
I like Tom's drawings for coloring in planned styles (if he's got something close to what I want to make), and letting my daughter color in copies for fun. But for a resource? Nope, not so much, not even for 16th century fashions as he, like Norris, edits his drawings. I'd rather go to the source, which I know for Celts can be difficult to find, especially before the 16th century. May I suggest Dress in Ireland by Mairead Dunlevy instead. One of the best books on Irish/Celtic clothing, and she does point to original sources for further research. There are a few other books, but I'd start there. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ OK my SCAdian family...I have a book by Tom Tierney on Celtic Fashions. What I would like to know is how reputable is this source? What I am looking for is Irish Celt in the 6th Century. I really like the style on the cover but the illustration states Frankish Celts, ca 450 B.C. PeaceDub Essa/Cliodhna ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gray Line Linen
I finally pulled out my old hankerchief linen stash from old Denver Fabrics, only 3 yards, and am making it into a new smock. I was despairing of ever finding its like again, since many stores have such slubby linen at this weight, or it is a blend with cotton or rayon, or it is super expensive. But to learn that there is a store that has even better quality linen at this weight? Ah, like mana from heaven. Thank you Marion for sharing this info. I look forward to buying some from Gray Line for my family's nicer smocks. And checking today, their site is still having errors. But I can wait. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Marion McNealy m_mc_ne...@yahoo.com snip Their handkerchief linen is the BEST! I adore it, its very smooth, not slubby and tightly woven, so you won't get the pulling at the seams like the linen from fabric-store.com. I love all the chemises and veils that I've made from it. (Do you remember the old Denver Fabrics handkerchief linen from 6-7 years ago? Its just like that, only better) Yes, it would make a lovely embroidered shirt. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Seriously beautiful app, not OT
Nice image and thanks for letting us know, but sadly this app (like most others it seems) only work on certain apple products, and sadly not on their regular Mac computers. I downloaded it, in case I someday buy an iPad or something, but I'm in no rush for that. Kimiko From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, July 15, 2010 7:53:59 AM Subject: [h-cost] Seriously beautiful app, not OT Apologies for bringing up a _book_ archive, but for those of you of the medievalist persuasion, this is stunning: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lunadabayletterpress/4795259562/ from the Bavarian State Library search the iTunes store for famous books. It has, among other illustrated manuscripts, Kostume und Sittenbilder, 1580. Did I mention it's free! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] unknown Tudor words
Hi all, I was hoping some folks here might have some insight into a new term (to me) that was in an inventory item for Queen Mary Tudor's wardrobe accounts (c.1554). [30] Item for lyning of a peire of pleites of a frenche Gowne of crymsen Satten What is a 'peire of pleites'?? There is a similar entry at 32, again for a French gown but with 'Murrey vellat' instead of crymsen satten. It isn't sleeves, as sleeves are noted. It isn't a partlet, nor a forepart, as those are noted, too. Any ideas or OED info, please?? Thank you. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] unknown Tudor words
Thank you Fran and Sharon for your thoughts on these words. That does make sense. I appreciate your help. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, June 28, 2010 2:43:59 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] unknown Tudor words From what others are saying, might it be a pair of facings for the center front opening of a gown? One can change the underskirt, so maybe the facings were also changed, so when the front opened, say while dancing, a complimentary fabric would be seen. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 10:18 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] unknown Tudor words Hi all, I was hoping some folks here might have some insight into a new term (to me) that was in an inventory item for Queen Mary Tudor's wardrobe accounts (c.1554). [30] Item for lyning of a peire of pleites of a frenche Gowne of crymsen Satten What is a 'peire of pleites'?? There is a similar entry at 32, again for a French gown but with 'Murrey vellat' instead of crymsen satten. It isn't sleeves, as sleeves are noted. It isn't a partlet, nor a forepart, as those are noted, too. Any ideas or OED info, please?? Thank you. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Seeking costume activities in Canada Maritimes
Hi Robin, I have a friend who is in Montreal who used to be involved in medieval re-enactment groups. But looking at the map of the eastern seaboard, I see that your friend is actually farther east. There is/was a ren-faire in Maine which would be closer, but it was cancelled for this year from the notes online. I don't know if it will be back or not or what happened. She is in the East Kingdom according to a lookup on the SCA site. Looking at the East Kingdom site, she would be in Shire of Lyndhaven - New Brunswick, which leads to this web site for more info. http://lyndhaven.org/ Hopefully those closer will have better contact info, and more info on other groups in her area, but I hope this is a helpful start. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net A net-friend has a 16-year-old daughter who has become interested in historic costuming. From photos of what she's doing, it appears to me she'd be delighted to make contact with the sort of people who go to Costume-Con, or possibly to Renaissance Faires. However, she's in Fredericton, New Brunswick. Can anyone point me to something that might be within reasonable travel range for her? I'm sure there must be an SCA branch somewhere near there, but I don't know if re-enactment is up her alley. Still, if there's no straight historic costume activity in her neck of the woods, I figure that would be a good alternative to suggest. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Asian fabrics in Victorian era?
With all the current discussion on Victorian era clothing (something I am trying to learn more about), I was wondering when Asian fabrics might have been used, if at all? Or is that something that comes in later, like Edwardian era or later? The reason why I ask is I have some Asian brocade fabrics in my stash that was originally meant for a larp costume, but I am pondering using it for a Victorian winter holiday outfit or maybe steampunk outfit, but I don't want to be seriously out of date if it is not appropriate to the time period. Thank you, Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - pockets
One stout middle-aged French woman was engaged in filling her pockets which were stuffed out with cold chicken and sweet cakes as she stood before me. I was eating a custard – the opportunity was tempting – so I emptied my glass into her open pocket, and a nice mixture she must have found when she got home. That... is one LARGE pocket. I can't imagine putting chicken and cakes and more into the little pockets of my modern clothing. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress forms
I have a foam dummy, and I love her (she's named Bessie Blunt, since I had to whack her breasts and was working on Tudor clothing at the time). Cin, what sort of stocking do you suggest using for the bird seed? And why how ace bandages for padding? I padded mine with poly batting in the areas I needed, under the cover. I'm just picturing the ace bandage going round and round the body - and that doesn't seem right so I am thinking you are doing something different. Thank you, Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com Really, there's no other sensible option: get a foam dummy. Pad her out with ace bandages, give her a boob-lift with a stocking full of birdseed, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Query re: website
I've met the site owner, when she came to Costume College last year and wore her incredible Worth gown reproduction, and taught a couple of classes. She also has a LiveJournal blog that she occasionally will post to. I don't have an opinion of the site itself, as it mostly covers a time period I've not gotten into yet. But I do know a few of her contributors, and several of my friends do like the site and info provided. I can't say much about it otherwise. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ - Original Message From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com Anybody know the site owner? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Query re: website
I don't know (my friends have not mentioned it). But I suggest contacting her and asking. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, May 17, 2010 10:06:57 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re: website But I do know a few of her contributors Do you know what the contributor payment range is? I don't do much magazine work any more but if the price is right . . . . Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] printed reproduction of early 15th-century fabric
Thank you for sharing this Melanie. That is beautiful. I'd love to get some of that fabric in silk, and it's not my time period. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ - Original Message From: Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sat, May 8, 2010 6:36:37 AM Subject: [h-cost] printed reproduction of early 15th-century fabric A textile company in Sweden has recreated the fabric of the extant golden gown of Queen Margareta and also a somewhat speculative reproduction of the gown itself. The fabric has a printed rather than woven design and will be available in silk and in cotton. Details here: http://www.durantextiles.com/newsletter/documents/news_3be_10.asp Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list href=mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com;h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Partlets
Hi all, I was going over Arnold's book, Patterns of Fashion 4, last night and finally noticed that there is only one extant partlet, in plain linen, noted in the book. Does anyone here know if there are any other extent partlets, plain or decorated, around? Thank you, Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Frobisher Garb
Do you mean this one? http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Martin_Frobisher_by_Ketel.jpg I wish it was a larger file to see the details better. It looks like the jerkin and possibly his breeches are in leather. But his sleeves have a fabric look to them, and may be attached to a doublet of the same fabric. The sleeves look to be extra long and pushed into doing those gathers - I can't tell with an image this size. The sleeves also look to be in 2 pieces. And just because you don't see an opening doesn't mean there isn't some sort of opening that is unseen in the image to get the hands through. I'm not sure what more help I can be, as sleeves are not a strong point for me. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ - Original Message From: REBECCA BURCH ctrvlyf...@sbcglobal.net I am, once again, making a Frobisher suit for Ansel to wear at Bristol. This time I want to approximate the outfit Sir Martin is wearing in the only full length portrait of him that I have seen. I need some input though on the jerkin he is wearing. I think that it looks to be made of leather, but I have no concept of how to make the sleeves gather like that. Or how you would get hands through such a tight sleeve with no visible opening. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] early 16th c. French illuminations.
Greetings all, I finally hunted down some illumination images that I had seen a few years back, but then disappeared while the French museum was redoing their web site. I finally found them again, although there is no stable url to give you as a pointer. But I have put a few of them of interest to me into my sewing blog, and I was hoping for those who have an interest in this time period, if you would mind taking a look at them, and giving me any insights you might have into them. Most I've posted are of women, one is a man's image. They are mostly of possible fashion styles that I've not seen elsewhere (at least not those known to be Franco-Flemish in style), so I am wondering if they are allegorical (the whole story is about Greek Roman heroes and heroines), or if they might possibly be actual fashions of that time period, but perhaps a different local. The blog entry is at http://kimikosews.livejournal.com/35026.html I've left it open to anyone to post, even if you are not a LiveJournal blogger. Thank you, Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A strange question
My goth friends say no. It just seems that way. Many of them do enjoy Steampunk, but Steampunk seems to appeal to those who were not goths as well. I know I like some aspects of it, and I've never had an interest in the regular goth scene. Seems the Lolita crowd likes it, too... from what I saw on one LJ Steampunk community I was on for awhile. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ - Original Message Has goth (clothing and events) basically evolved into steampunk? Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blackwork pattern sought
Hi Julie, It may have come from Bronwen's Blackwork Library, which is here now: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/blackwork/index.html Last I heard she was working on a book to include those designs that are now not available, but that was a few years ago and nothing further was said. Maybe you could email her about your question. I have a couple of designs from her patterns, but neither match the style you've described. Sorry. Alternately, she took her designs from period sources, so perhaps you might have to hunt those sources down to recreate. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com I'm hoping someone here can help me out. I've misplaced the pattern for some blackwork that's in progress. I've checked everything I have at home and haven't turned it up. The pattern is a counted blackwork with acorns, oak leaves and trellis work that repeats in mirror image/left/right. It's not in Gostelow and not in the Blackwork Archives. I'm pretty sure it was from an online source. Everything else I've checked is a broken link. Any suggestions? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] non paned trunkhose pre 1600
A good primer on forms of address in Elizabeth's court is here http://www.elizabethan.org/compendium/13.html It is a little different than what the SCA uses it seems. I know I get confused, having learned the above info as a courtier in renfaire, then having to learn the SCA's titles. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Wanda Pease wan...@hevanet.com snip I do recommend the book for those interested in the people in Elizabeth's life. Mistress Blanche (she is given that title in letters to her and about her during her lifetime which is an interesting item of SCA type information - that Mistress could be considered a proper title for a highly placed and born woman.) Regina Romsey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern
Without getting into too long a discussion, her idea cannot be trademarked, as it is not an item that falls under that category (it is not a word, name, symbol or device). I also don't know if she can copyright it (don't think so), as in the US, a general fashion design cannot be copyrighted, unless she were to create a specific paper pattern design and copyright that specific paper design. She also may not be able to patent the idea... as there is cause under prior art (tho a few centuries old prior art). I am not sure how she can protect this under modern legal protections. But I am glad Regina did figure this one out, as it is one I've pondered for many years as well, and knew she was working on it. Great job Regina! I look forward to seeing your garments done in this fashion (will you have a class at CoCo?). And if I see anyone else claiming they re-discovered this style, well we know otherwise. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ For gods' sake woman, get it tradmarked. I don't know you, but I do know cultural property. snip Since I am about to proliferate an original idea, I wanted to put it up here to make sure it doesn't get hijacked. I have studied 16th century Irish clothing for the last 25 years. Leine (Irish bag sleeves) have never looked right how they have been interpreted by re-enactors. SO, I fixed it. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummy
My latest dummy only got her name after I carefully removed her overly extended breasts. Bessie Blunt is a play on Elizabeth Bessie Blount, one of King Henry VIII's mistresses. I've been doing a bit of Henrician stuff recently. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ I'm sure others can make excellent suggestions, --cin Cynthia Barnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Sadly, I've been in a sewing slump for the past few months, hibernating for the winter. My dress form Bessie Blunt is therefore not wearing much other than her covering. I've got a few projects in mind, but nothing beyond thought stage at this point. I hope with the spring, my own desire to sew will also return into glorious bloom. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com Whatever the reason, costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US?
I will agree and disagree with this comment. We have a number of weekend renfaires in my area, and a very big civil war event once a year. We are also going to have a Jane Austen event in May. But other than that... you are right, very little else goes on in the middle of California. Kimiko from Fresno But at least I can travel elsewhere if I had more time. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, February 22, 2010 12:35:39 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US? Justine, The problem with California is that the activity is centered around SF and LA, with little or nothing between. California is huge. . . there's 400 miles of not much in the middle! == Marjorie Wilser (in the middle. . . wishing for better events!) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] questions
A. The difference depends on time period, and simple word use. Elizabethan farthingales are shaped differently than Victorian crinolines, which differed in shape depending on the time frame. Both are different in shape than modern hoops. People in general call them all hoops. I have a page that shows the differences. http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/CostumeMythsWS/myth13a.html (I only show 1 type of farthingale and 1 type of crinoline to make my point) 1A. Some modern bridal hoops are going to be made of polyester, but most of those I've seen are made in cotton or a cotton/poly blend. You would have to ask your source for the fiber content. Cotton is best for premade modern hoops for breathability. 2A. You can use any lightweight material from the regular fabric store, from a firmly woven cotton muslin on to firm linen canvas or twill (which will be heavier in weight). You can even cover or make it in silk if you wanted something fancy, tho it won't be seen. 3A. I liked getting the thicker steels with connectors from Farthingales. http://farthingales.on.ca/ To understand the differences in steels, and compare them to alternatives, read her article on steels. http://farthingales.on.ca/steel_class.html And there is a US company that sells the steels for her, Vogue Fabrics under the Corset Making Supplies http://www.voguefabricsstore.com I hope that helps. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com Is there a difference between a farthingale and hoops? I need hoops/something under my skirts. (snip for space) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Margot Anderson pattern
I have it, and will be making the same soon (as soon as I get out of my not wanting to do diddly funk). I am also biased, so I figured I would link to the GBACG Pattern Review site, for some non-biased viewpoints on the pattern set, from those who have made up the garments already. http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/margo-anderson.html Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, February 1, 2010 6:20:26 PM Subject: [h-cost] Margot Anderson pattern Has anyone used the Elizabethan Ladies Undergarments pattern? I am looking to make a new chemise and farthingale and wondered if anyone had any problems/loved it. Sharon ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cartwheel farthinggale pattern
May I suggest The Tudor Tailor book. It has directions and pattern inside the book for the wheel farthingale (aka French farthingale). Worked up pretty well for me. They also have the pattern on their web site as part of the farthingales set. http://www.tudortailor.com/ Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Jodi Nelson faerieglenstud...@yahoo.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Mon, February 1, 2010 7:55:20 PM Subject: [h-cost] Cartwheel farthinggale pattern Dear List, I need to locate information to create a cartwheel farthinggale. Where do I look?? Thanks in advance, Jodi Nelson __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washing linen trousers
I have two pairs of linen slacks that I machine wash in cold water and dry on low air. They shrank just a tad, which is fine since my legs are on the shorter length, and not a problem around the waist as they expand on warming up to my body. I won't dry clean anything if I can help it, and was willing to risk it on linen pants. YMMV. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Claire Clarke angha...@adam.com.au I'm not exactly in the habit of going to to the dry cleaners. I was wondering if it would be a bad idea to wash these trousers in the washing machine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
This is one online site that I've bought some 100% cotton velvet from before. You can buy swatches to check out before ordering if you need. They seem to carry the same basic colors regularly. http://www.syfabrics.com/Browse.aspx/100--Cotton-Med-Light-Weight-Velvet/258 I don't see any blue-green or green however. And my local Hancock sells velveteen in the fall, but not velvet. It may be that your stores only carry it seasonally. Did you ask any of the clerks? My store will order fabrics for me if it is one they carry on a regular basis, like their velveteens. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ So what is it with velvet these days? The acrylic stuff just gets crappier and crappier and I can't find simple cotton anywhere. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
If you travel to Bakersfield, then don't go in the late spring to summer seasons, when yes it will be very hot in our valley. Or days of fog in the winter. I live in Fresno, but visit Bakersfield on occasion, usually to visit their large warehouse fabric store (FM Fabrics). But I would rather trek south to the garment district and park on a roof than try and find decent natural fiber fabric at my local Hancock's any day, sad to say. Although yesterday I was pleasantly surprised to find my local Hancock's actually carrying real 100% linen, but their prices on sale is at least double to triple the price I find in L.A. I guess mileage varies. :-) btw, Marjorie, where do you live? Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com snip If I want to drive 45 miles there's a huge, messy, jumbled-together Joannn's. Or, for 120 miles in nightmare traffic, I can go to the LA garment district and drive around looking for a parking place. Of your three, Hancock was the best in the San Jose area, but now, the closest is over 100 miles inland and in the worst climate. Whoever put the Bake in Bakersfield was sure right! :) == Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
I have dealt with swatches from the second company. They will tell you that their producers tell them it is 100% silk velvet. But do a bleach test and you will find as I did that the velvet is a regular silk/rayon velvet. I told them that, and they still wrote back that they stand by what their producers tell them, and that their burn test shows otherwise (note I did a bleach test, too, not just a burn test). I am sure they make more money selling silk making false claims like that. So, unless they actually have gotten in real 100% silk velvet in the past few years, I would order a swatch and do a bleach test first on any silk velvet to confirm their claims before placing a full order. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net snip or http://www.distinctivefabric.com/fabric.php?product=SILKVELVET1 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
No idea... but the wonderful thing with Diana's shop is she will send you swatches upon request... for free! Just send her an email. I've bought from her both via mail, and in person when I was in her area, and she's wonderful to work with and buy from. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, January 19, 2010 12:36:15 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant) I'm quite taken with the olive green embossed velveteen. Anyone know how heavy it is? Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 13, message 8
Which kind of adhesives? There are basting sprays and completely glued sprays. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ has any one had problems with the spray adhesives for quilting? Penny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
I found the smaller brass drapery rings from Warm Natural window batting, but my local Joanns store that carried them discontinued those items this past year. I am not sure where to suggest online, but maybe that brand name might help in your search. And you can use the smaller cable ties. That's what I have in my fitted Tudor kirtle. The key is to have them go across the front of the bodice in channels just a little larger than the boning you use so they can slip in. I've seen the wider thicker duct ties in the air conditioning areas of the major home improvement stores. They are really long, too... since they go around the much larger a/c metal duct tubes. I personally prefer the thinner cable ties, but each person has their own preferences. Hth, and have fun with the project! Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ Two materials recommendations have me baffled. There's half-inch diameter Roman drapery rings. I can't find any smaller than an inch -- where would you get them? And the often-made suggestion of using half-inch plastic strapping for boning -- no one around here seems to sell any that's larger than 3/8. Mail order? Use it double? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Online dictionary of colors with color swatches
Then may I suggest we drop this topic asap? Please? Kimiko But hey, I'm not in the mood to play one-upmanship games. Fran ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting Christmas Presents
Hi Penny, Did anyone receive or give some interesting Christmas presents that pertains to historic costume? I gave myself two gifts I forgot to mention as they weren't received till after Christmas. They aren't as interesting as the hats and photo album you received Penny. Those are some nice gifts you received that many here would appreciate. The first is the book Women in Pants: Manly Maidens, Cowgirls, and Other Renegades by Smith Greig. Interesting image filled book of the 19ths and early 20th century women wearing bifurcated garments of some sort (bloomers, stovepipe pants, men's suits, etc.) and why the women wore them. Great book that is currently available for really good price (under $10). I got it as I wanted something historically accurate but not a fashion plate for doing steampunk or regular Victorian events. This is the book for inspiration on that end, and I've already finished reading the book. The other item won't start for another month, but it is lessons in doing gold work and silk embroidery, from one of the ladies involved with the embroidered Plymouth Jacket (that was so beautiful). http://thistle-threads.com.mytempweb.com/teaching/projects/onlineclasses/index.html I'll be taking the class on Floral Glove Needlecase, hoping it will get me to actually create the gauntlet for my hand made gloves made from one of your classes with Franchesca. That's one item I would like to finish, and finish well. I've got a late Elizabethan gown that needs the right accessory for it. snip interesting stuff As usual, every year I open up my online Library subscription area for FREE. snip This is wonderful! Thank you very much for this. I know what I'll be doing for a few days. :-) Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
