Re: [h-cost] Boys Costume in a Daguerreotype Photo
Probably is a boy. Boys and girls were dressed the same until a certain age during the 19th century. Not sure up until what age or when this practice stopped though. -Original Message- From: Beteena Paradise lt;bete...@mostlymedieval.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Mon, Jun 28, 2010 3:32 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boys Costume in a Daguerreotype Photo Are you sure that is a boy? It looks like a girl to me. From: penny1a lt;penn...@costumegallery.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Mon, June 28, 2010 7:07:08 AM Subject: [h-cost] Boys Costume in a Daguerreotype Photo Someone please explain this little boy's costume to me, http://daguerreian.org/fm3/detail.php?Databasenumber=861 .? You can click on the image to see details in Zoomify.? I do not understand the bodice with the trousers.? They do not seem to go together. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com lt;http://www.costumegallery.com/gt; 14 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Working in a museum:
Hello all, I am writing to the list with unique inquiry. Currently I am going to school for Art Education although I entered this field already possessing a deep-seated passion for the 19th century. However, after a lot of forethought I decided a degree in education would give me greater stability than perhaps pursuing a degree in history or the like. The reason I am writing is for advice from anyone here who would know what type of careers there may be that I could pursue on the side where my interest and knowledge may be put to use. Great consideration has already gone into the idea of working in a museum environment, which is what I would like most, although the field I am most interested in (costume preservation) requires a graduate degree. Aside from being an educator on the topic or working in a museum, how else could I possibly make use of my interest in a professional way? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you very much. -Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments
I'm rather surprised because my solution to forms was the first to come back in response to the issue at hand and I've received no feedback on it. As a collector I KNOW anything like plastic, wood, etc is lethal for displaying old garments which is why the technique I use is good for short term because the form is covered with appropriate materials and sized/shaped to fit the garment prevent damage. Was only curious as to whether or not there was any interest in attempting my technique as it had not made the NEVER USE list. -Justine. -Original Message- From: Schaeffer, Astrida lt;astrida.schaef...@unh.edugt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Sat, May 29, 2010 10:37 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments Just a note-- most of the dummy suggestions given so far would be harmful to your 200 year old garments. Perfectly fine for short term display of modern stuff, but really not a good idea for clothing of historical merit. Please, please don't use them! I don't know how much you know about display, so please forgive me if I'm saying obvious things. And I'm not trying to stomp on anyone's suggestions or anything, but Ive been making museum-grade mannequins for over ten years and I've had to learn about this stuff! There's a lot to keep in mind and protecting your garment is as important as displaying it with the right silhouette, if not more so. Plastic forms from stores are likely questionable-- no idea what kind of plastic is involved, and are likely the wrong shape in any case and could have hard, sharp edges. Inflatable forms have sharp seams (bad) and would need padding out for protection. Duct tape is scary both because of the plastic that carries the adhesive and of course the adhesive itself. What you want are materials that won't outgas, like ethafoam (a kind of closed cell, carveable, chemically inert foam made by the company 3M). Styrofoam is actually safe but crumbly, you'd need to cover it in any case and it might not be structural enough. Urethane foams are a bad idea-- they outgas. You can use acid free mat board or museum grade plastic corrugated board to build up a form as well, again the key is acid-free and inert. No matter what rigid core you use for structural integrity and strength, your form will need to be padded so nothing rigid or sharp comes in contact with your textile, and you want padding materials that do not have starches in them (attract insects). Poly batting is good, so is needle-punched cotton. Polarfleece is great (use white though). You want to avoid nylon (polyester is safe), and anything that is dyed should be tested first to make sure dyes won't rub off on your historic garment. No matter what kind of dummy you wind up with, you a! lways want a barrier between the dummy and the garment, something like stockinette. And you want the dummy to be fully supportive of the specific shape of your garment yet just a teensy bit too small so that no seams get strained. You want to be absolutely sure that the shoulders are not too broad for the garment-- modern forms tend to have this flaw, modern store mannequins are made to our modern aesthetic, which is much more built up and sporty than historic clothes can handle. And exposed wood should be sealed to prevent outgassing of acids (don't use polyurethane, paint is safer). Hope that helps, Astrida ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments
Didn't realize anyone actually ever marketed something of the sort. I've never seen one online but wish I had! Maybe they don't use the exact same type of chicken wire because the kind I use is flexible enough that there was never a problem getting the exact form required. The secret is to sort of tuck in the wire to make a larger reduction quickly sort of like folding under fabric. Would really like to know now how the other ones are to work with, if they'd be easier or harder but when cutting everything to size on your own it will be the right height, width, etc. Do you know what brand they were? It's probably much cheaper despite the extra effort to make them, though I made my first 6 in one afternoon so it isn't too difficult if you have a good game plan before starting. Guess it is a matter of weighing preference, time and convenience vs. cost. -Justine. -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press lt;f...@lavoltapress.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Sun, May 30, 2010 2:36 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments On 5/30/2010 11:17 AM, ladybeanofbun...@aol.com wrote: gt; I'm rather surprised because my solution to forms was the first to come back in response to the issue at hand and I've received no feedback on it. As a collector I KNOW anything like plastic, wood, etc is lethal for displaying old garments which is why the technique I use is good for short term because the form is covered with appropriate materials and sized/shaped to fit the garment prevent damage. gt; Was only curious as to whether or not there was any interest in attempting my technique as it had not made the NEVER USE list. gt; -Justine. gt; If you were the person recommending chicken wire forms, there were commercial ones in the 1960s. My mother had one. She bought one in roughly her size and shape and my father fitted it by molding it around her. I don't think she ever used it, it didn't really shape that well. But anyway, I've sometimes seen forms like hers on eBay--might beat shaping chicken wire from scratch. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments
Hi there, I know that in the past, although it was out of my budget, there is a place that sells foam mannequins that can be cut with a special tool. I don't know where this was exactly because I had the link on my old computer over three years ago but this is a place saved in my new favourites. While this may not be the recommended way to display old pieces, if you are really in a pinch and need something specific, I could recommend a home-made form as I have been using for my Victorian collection displays. NOT suitable of course for long term display but as I said, good for a pinch. The link to the site is: http://www.anatomic.net/ They may or may not do custom. If they do however, it will likely cost and depending on the scale of your exhibit and budget it may or may not be worth it. Note: This works for dresses only. Now, this will sound super cheesy but it does work if you have a somewhat creative, sculptural mind. Most of what you would need is from the home improvement center. Get a roll of chicken wire, the stuff with the hexagon openings in it. It comes in a couple widths, I buy the stuff that is 36 high since most torsos are not longer than that. As many wooden stair posts as you would need, some thin wood, nails, batting, and muslin. Basically what you do, is make a stand with the post and some of the wood. On top of that you cut a piece out that is the shape and span of the hip line of your garment. The total length of the garment's torso down to the hipline gets made from the chicken wire so you will need to cut that to just a little longer than what you need and about 4 inches (more or less if wanted) wider than the hip measure or widest measure of the torso if it isn't the hip. The wire will be folded in and you reach into the wire and twist the cut ends to secure the tube closed. Wear heavy gloves and long sleeves for this because the wire is sharp! The tube of wire gets fixed to the piece of wood on the stand, the chicken wire stapled or tucked under the wood so as to make a smooth hip line at the bottom. *No cut edges of wire should be exposed when you are through, they should all be secured together and tucked under inside the tube so they will not snag on any material or poke through. It is easier to just fold any excess wire at the top inside at the neckline. This will make a stronger and safer opening than just cutting to length. Once you have your wire attached to the stand is when the creative part begins. You have to more or less bend and form the wire, sculpting it to the correct shape, proportions, measurements of the garment. You can test for fit and continue to readjust until the garment fits well. It should be the right fit but a little smaller to accommodate the following steps. ?Once the wire is sculpted into the correct torso form, take the batting and cover the wire as neatly and tightly as possible and just drape the form with unbleached washed cotton muslin. It should be washed without detergents so as to be safest against the fabrics. You literally just drape it to the form and hand stitch into place just to cover the batting. In areas where the garment fits loosely, take some pieces of torn or fluffed up batting or acid free tissue paper and gently stuff it until it fits well. This step I usually hold off on until I am setting up the display. Be reminded this is NOT ideal for long term display but will really get you by in a quick pinch and the best part is that they are completely custom sized for each garment! You can get little yard sale tags too and label each form and tie them to the inside neckline of each form for future use because, believe me, once they are naked they are difficult to tell apart. If you cannot locate what you are looking for and decide to give my home made display form technique a try, please let me know how it worked out for your or if you have any questions. Take care and good luck:) Regards, Justine Jackson. lady_of_bris...@yahoo.com www.DVLGS.org -Original Message- From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden lt;aylwe...@gmail.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Sat, May 29, 2010 12:40 am Subject: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments The posts on dummies are reminding me to write this request. I am putting on an exhibition next year of 200-year old garments that are too small for the standard sized dummy/mannequin - I probably need ones the size of a thin 12-year old girl. Can you recommend anywhere online where I can purchase nice-looking foam dummies/mannequins for display of extant garments? I really want people to see the gowns in 3D instead of lying flat in boxes. I have purchased dummies in the past from http://www.tinnafashion.com but the shoulders and chests are too broad. Bye for now, Aylwen Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia
Re: [h-cost] MODERN HAIR RECEPTICLE
gt;Now I'm curious - how *do* you change clothes in a moving carriage or sleigh? lt; Wouldn't it be similar to changing in a moving car? It is rather surprising to hear anyone was changing anything in a moving carriage if we are talking about the time when they only had carriages. I am just curious, when was this grandmother alive to remember such things? -Original Message- From: Emily Gilbert lt;emchantm...@gmail.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Tue, May 4, 2010 1:38 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] MODERN HAIR RECEPTICLE Now I'm curious - how *do* you change clothes in a moving carriage or sleigh?? ? Emily ? AVCHASE wrote:? gt; Hi, All:? gt;? gt; My Grandmother told me to save my hair in a net bag (for making rats), I should make and once a year wash it, sqeeze out the moisture in a towel, and hang to air dry. She said I'd have to make new bags to replace the old as silk net eventually rots; then along came nylon. However, I never did that. But now I save all combings in a recycled boutique tissue box in the back of a drawer. I don't save it for rats though. I save it to cut up for potting plants. It's nitrogen. I could make rats if desired. gt; Frn, should I write a book about all the things my Grandmoter told me, like the possible bath, how to change clothes in a moving carriage or sleigh, or how to how make the cat stay when moved to a new home?? gt; Best to all, Audy.? gt;? gt; in the high boonies of Central Texas? gt;? gt; ? gt; PeoplePC Online? gt; A better way to Internet? gt; http://www.peoplepc.com? gt; ___? gt; h-costume mailing list? gt; h-cost...@mail.indra.com? gt; http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? gt;? gt; ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair: hair receptacle
Many years ago, about 6 now as a matter of fact, when I first decided to start growing my hair out I bought a bakelite receiver from a local antique shop (it was all I could find and afford at the time) and start using it. What I did was take the hair from the brush BEFORE washing and I should have cleaned it but hadn't thought of it at the time. I ended up with a bag full of various sized rats and even tried the hair net approach but they just never worked. Chances are I wasn't doing it right, making the pieces too small, etc. The final problem in doing this was using them. I found it very difficult to put them in without them being loose and slipping or coming through the hair styled over them. After these two posts though I might start over and wait until there is a lot of hair and stuff them really full to make big pieces. The hairspray is a good idea. Perhaps now that my hair is one colour again (I had recently coloured it burgundy by accident) the rats won't show throu! gh as much as they had under blonde hair? Justine J. DVLGS Organizer www.DVLGS.org -Original Message- From: Elizabeth Walpole lt;elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Mon, May 3, 2010 11:54 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair: hair receptacle On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 1:27 PM, Penny Ladnier lt;penn...@costumegallery.comgt;wrote: gt; gt; gt; Now, for making the rat...would it work best to place the hair in panty gt; hose before using it in my hair? gt; gt; I've heard 'invisible' hair nets plus some hairspray recommended by those who've done it before. Pantyhose might work but one of the great benefits of making a ratt from your own hair is that it is already colour matched. Finding pantyhose to match your hair colour (especially if you're not a brunette) is trickier. Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian Hair:
Hello fellow costumers. ? I wanted to thank those of you who offered your suggestions on mounting swags onto my 1880s balldress. Your advice helped immensely in the creation process and everything went together mostly as planned. My only frustration was that once the decorative parts were?tacked by hand?in place, they lost the smoothness upon laying across the edges of the bodice as had been when initially pinned in place and puckered in some spots. ? After much effort and little discovery though, arranging my hair in a nice period coiffure seems entirely inpossible! Many people I know chose to wear wigs or hair pieces when in costume and although this looks very nice, I have been painstakingly growing out and caring for my own hair for 7 years now solely for the purpose of doing these styles naturally. However, I cannot seem to find a way to do it. Perhaps because I am not very experienced styling hair? ? If there is anyone who could and would be interested in training me on how to put my hair up in some styles it would be so very appreciated and would be willing compensate you for your assistance. My hair is currently down to the bottom of my back or longer. I don't know because I usually brush it out at the side and put it right back up so I haven't measured lately.? Also, I live just outside of Philadelphia PA. Thank you so much :) ? Kindest Regards, Delaware Valley Ladies and Gentlemen Society lady_of_bris...@yahoo.com www.DVLGS.org ? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair:
? I think most people today would be horrified at the thought of adding oil to their hair! Believe it or not, aside from having to full submersion cleanse my hair maybe once every week or every other week, part of my regime in doing so involves combing in an herbal Indian hair oil I buy at Subzi Mandi nearby. I find this to be a much more effective means of pretending tangles and a few days after my hair completely dries (I keep it wrapped all the time) it regains all it's slipperiness. As you can imagine, by the time wash day comes along for my hair it is raring to go in terms of oils and great texture, it's just the my main issue is the actual arrangement of my hair pieces into a period hairstyle that is the problem. I will keep in mind hair dressers for Asian weddings as I have seen what gorgeous styles are worn for traditional weddings (not to mention the headpieces in Chinese culture). I did try a modern pomade once that I purchased from the Afro-American section of the beauty department and it was great! Only problem after using it was that I couldn't wash it out because it was so waxy and thick, not even Dawn could take it out right away. Justine Jackson DVLGS Organizer www.DVLGS.org -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press lt;f...@lavoltapress.comgt; To: Historical Costume lt;h-cost...@indra.comgt; Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2010 9:57 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair: When I was using a run of 1867-1868 _Harper's Bazars_ for _Reconstruction Era Fashions_, what struck me were the numerous descriptions purchased chignons, a term used to cover a wide variety of hair pieces/styles attached more or less to the back of the head. I put some of this information in the book.? ? Fran? Lavolta Press? Books on Historic Clothing? www.lavoltapress.com? ? I recently purchased an 1868? gt; Harper's with step-by-step directions for a ladies' hairstyle. This was? gt; accomplished with the ladies' own long hair. It doesn't look difficult? gt; to do.? gt;? gt; Since the film, The Young Victoria, came out, the Queen's hairstyles? gt; have become fashionable again in tweens and teenagers.? gt;? gt; Penny Ladnier? gt; Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites? gt; www.costumegallery.com? gt; 14 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history? gt;? gt; ___? gt; h-costume mailing list? gt; h-cost...@mail.indra.com? gt; http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? gt;? gt;? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair:
There is a very good reason why people did not bathe that way until warmer weather and it had a lot to do with the simple fact that it was too cold to do so in winter. -Original Message- From: albert...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2010 3:29 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair: In addition to directions for sponge-washing the hair without immersing the whole head--where much of the soap would likely remain in the hair after the process is over and therefore stiffen it--there are period arguments for and against vigorously immersing and washing the whole head full of hair. Arguments against: It causes headaches, earaches, toothaches, complaints of the eyes, wrinkles, and head colds. * Imagine tons of wet hair in a fireplace or coal stove heated houseon a cold day in a age without antibiotics. Which puts me in mind of one of my favorite paintings by one of my favorite artists: Sunday, Women drying their hair by John Slone.. This is 1912 so it's not really Victorian, but... http://www.metmuseum.org/special/americanstories/objectView.aspx?sid=5oid=35 Notice the length. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1880's ball dress
Hello, I am planning to take on a ball dress as my next project and wonder if anyone may be able to advise me. I bought the pattern from Ageless Patterns and think it is a lovely gown. However, instead of the plain styling along the edge of the bodice I want to have swags of fabric or something like that along the front, shoulder, and neck seams. This isn't in the pattern but find it was very popular at the same (at least based on fashion illustrations). Should I ultimately just drape strips of fabric along the edge and sew it down? Also, the pattern called for epaulets on the shoulder and pearl bead embroidery which is funny, because I thought by looking at the illustration it was supposed to be just regular embroidery and decided I'd want pearl scrolls since my fabric is brocade. Just comes naturally I guess. Any recommendations on any of the above? Also, if anyone knows how to put long hair into a period style please contact me. Thank you very much for your time. -Regards, Justine J. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Camille is currently wearing a lovely rasberry two-peice suit, circa 1892. The fabric is most definitely fit for chilly winter/early spring weather as it is very warm, although considerably light in weight which makes is rather suitable for traveling around. I am not sure what it is, I got it on clearance for $1.60 a yard. It irons very poorly, and the highest temperature it can take is the rayon setting. It's probably polyester, but it is very pleasing regardless. The suit: An Eton jacket trimmed with black velvet braid and complete with a watch pocket. The skirt is a one-piece circular skirt (walking length) that I scaled from a pattern book some time ago, although I never remember to NOT cut out the darts so that I can make it a little larger than I once needed it to be. This is literally the easiest and fastest skirt to make with only one seam along the back, It, too, is trimmed with the matching braid and trains nicely in the back. Not too much drag, yet just enough. I am waiting for the courage to wear the complete suit to school. With the intention on starting my dark chocolate brown skirt to wear when I need to just throw something on that will match any top (which is WHY I went fabric shopping to begin with the day I found the rasberry fabric and fabric for everything else) I found myself instead starting my grand bustle from TV. So far's so good. I've got the fourth row of ruffles on now, which my cats are enjoying. I can't wait to try it on as I have only ever worn a crinoline hoop, and bustle pad. Hopefully I'lI get to my birthday cake suit just as the weather breaks. I am absolutely torn on what style of garb to make it from! It is a very losely woven cream coloured fabric, sort of a knit, and woven throughout are little tiny velvet pastel dots and it looks exactly like confetti cake mix. Here is the best part! The day I found this fabric, I played show and tell with my mum who had just finished telling me that she bought nothing other than confetti cake mix and was planning to make cupcakes; which was then my queu to bring forth the delicious goods. The fabric to me, completely has the feel of the gay nineties or early Edwardian, it's just so cute and playful and sweet. However, finding a good pattern for a heavily pleated skirt (like those in the National Cloak and Suit Company's catalogue from about 1907) is very hard to find. :) -Justine J. -Original Message- From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: h-cost h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Mar 1, 2010 7:30 pm Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing? It's spring (where I live). You might be making something for the end of the theater season, a party, a wedding, a con or a re-enactment. Whatever the reason, costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something spiffy on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. You could tell us about what's on your worktable, hat block or in the box that you keep your current project in. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US?
I'm coming to the US in July/Aug/Sept this year, and will mostly be on the East coast. Do you know if there are any historical costuming events, lectures or workshops scheduled for that time? As I am on the East coast, in the Philly area, if anyone happens to know of any that will be taking place at that time or any time, please let me know as well because we seem to be starved for costuming events in the northeast. Strange as it may seem though, especially since it is the oldest region in the country. California and vacinity seems to have a really really active reenacting/costuming community. Does anyone know why all the action is out there? Things do happen in this region but in very isolated events. Aside from the active Civil War reenactor groups most others seem to hide and surface a couple times a year for a few of the larger events but that is it. Goal number 1: Try to talk the Glenfoerd Mansion folk into hosting a costumed garden party or other kind of party at some time :D Take care!! Justine J. -Original Message- From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2010 5:28 am Subject: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US? I'm coming to the US in July/Aug/Sept this year, and will mostly be on the East coast. Do you know if there are any historical costuming events, lectures or workshops scheduled for that time? Bye for now, Aylwen Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au Member, Jane Austen Society of Australia Member, Australian Costumers Guild ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US?
Sigh, I'd absolutely love to go to the Newport Vintage Dance week. Every year they send me the publication for it but there is no way I can afford it yet, not to mention I have no dance partner so it would be silly to go and not be able to dance. That is so true about Cali. being a large state, I hadn't even considered that many of the events are limited to certain areas within the state. There are a couple things I.ve be wanting to mention, but should probably open a new topic for them. I'll keep my eyes posted for local events though in summer and pass the word long if I find out about anything. :) -Justine. -Original Message- From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2010 4:35 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US? I know you said you are going on July, but during the last couple of days in June there is a big 18th century event called Under the Redcoat in Williamsburg: http://www.33rdfoot.org/UTR.html Also, I don't live on the east coast anymore, but friends of mine do and they seem to do a lot of period events (CW/Victorian, Regency and 18th c). From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, February 22, 2010 9:06:18 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US? I'm planning to arrive in time for the Newport Vintage Dance Week so will be bringing 1850s, 1890s and 1910 outfit with me. Have heard there might be some 18c workshops that I'm really interested in as well. Cheers, Aylwen On 23/02/2010, at 7:35 AM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Justine, The problem with California is that the activity is centered around SF and LA, with little or nothing between. California is huge. . . there's 400 miles of not much in the middle! == Marjorie Wilser (in the middle. . . wishing for better events!) =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Feb 22, 2010, at 11:03 AM, ladybeanofbun...@aol.com wrote: I'm coming to the US in July/Aug/Sept this year, and will mostly be on the East coast. Do you know if there are any historical costuming events, lectures or workshops scheduled for that time? As I am on the East coast, in the Philly area, if anyone happens to know of any that will be taking place at that time or any time, please let me know as well because we seem to be starved for costuming events in the northeast. Strange as it may seem though, especially since it is the oldest region in the country. California and vacinity seems to have a really really active reenacting/costuming community. Does anyone know why all the action is out there? Things do happen in this region but in very isolated events. Aside from the active Civil War reenactor groups most others seem to hide and surface a couple times a year for a few of the larger events but that is it. Goal number 1: Try to talk the Glenfoerd Mansion folk into hosting a costumed garden party or other kind of party at some time :D Take care!! Justine J. -Original Message- From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2010 5:28 am Subject: [h-cost] Costuming workshops in the US? I'm coming to the US in July/Aug/Sept this year, and will mostly be on the East coast. Do you know if there are any historical costuming events, lectures or workshops scheduled for that time? Bye for now, Aylwen Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au Member, Jane Austen Society of Australia Member, Australian Costumers Guild ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Southeastern PA resources:
Hello all, while I have been fairly quiet on the mailing list until today there are a few things that have been waiting to be passed along to everyone. First: I know of an excellent source for good, plentiful, and usually dirt cheap fabrics, trims, notions, etc. They now have a website I believe but you must visit their stores in-person to shop. They offer student discounts on fabrics now also although they usually were willing to give me the discount in the past when I inquired about it. It is called Jo-Mar and they are located throughout the Philly area. Most of their fabrics I was told are leftovers from wholesalers and such (in NY in particular) so the fabric can be purchased sometimes in huge quantities, and generally measures about 54 which is great for large projects. The inventory is constantly changing and varies from store to store and once something is gone it's gone for good so I've learned to stock up to be sure I don't run out and end up stuck later with an unfinished project. The location I frequent in the Northeast has quite a few rolls of 100% cotton tape and is already preshrunk. It's 19cents a yard and absolutely authentic and perfect for making period underpinnings where drawstrings or tapes were used. They have a million yards of different eyelet trims and laces right now too. Not to mention how many millions of yards of LARGE rolls of satin ribbon they have right now, all different colours. They are sold in 100 yard rolls for $5.00. If anyone would be interested in coming to this area to do a Jo-Mar shop-hopping trip I would be more than happy to lead the tour since I've been to nearly all of them, excluding locations on the far end of the city or those that have just recently opened. If anyone would be interested in a middle man who cannot get to this area, I would also be glad to find my way back to the yahoo group pages where goods can be traded and list some things for sale. It's usually better though to go in person because quantities vary and are constantly changing with fabrics. Second: One other thing I would like to mention again that I think I mentioned last year, is that I would like very much still to organize a group where the costumers, reenactors, vintage dancers, etc. in this region can unite and possibly plan public events of our own. This was experimented with breifly last summer but did not succeed. However, if anyone would be interested and is in the Philadelphia/Southeastern PA region please let me know. Thank you all for your ear and hope to talk soon. -Justine J. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costuming Events in the US/East coast Jul-Aug-Sept
I have been to the South Street shops once but found most of what was being sold to be very expensive, like anywhere from $10-80 per yard fabrics. Jo-Mar is very cheap. I went crazy last year, taffeta was on sale for $2 a yard, and they had plaids in all different colours. I ended up taking a tube of cream and gold coloured home. I made a 15 yd 1860s day dress and there is still a great deal left on the tube. If I could afford to buy all of what I saw and liked there I would keep it a secret :P but there is so much that could be used in wonderful ways. Keep me posted if ever you come up into the area or I'll keep you posted if something comes up :) Take care. -Justine J. -Original Message- From: A. Thurman athur...@gmail.com To: Historic Costume List h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2010 8:56 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming Events in the US/East coast Jul-Aug-Sept Early August might be late for your visit, but the Costume Society of America is having a symposium Fashion In Fiction - The Dark Side October 8-10 http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/RegionII/event_workshop_sym.htm I'm a DC person and if I'm still local in October (long story) I plan to attend. I too would be interested in any potential Philly shopping trips. I don't think I've ever been to Jo Mar but I was very impressed with the South Street fabric district when I was last there. Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] In search of a costuming teacher
Hello Emily, I know exactly how you feel because I, too, would like to find someone who can teach me. With all the talented costumers out there it seems it would be easy, I am just outside of Philadelphia and haven't had any luck yet but I hope you will come across the right teacher:) Good luck and take care! -Justine. -Original Message- From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Oct 30, 2009 8:46 pm Subject: [h-cost] In search of a costuming teacher I love 19th-century costume, and I'd like to find someone who makes it and would be willing to teach me how. Someone who lives in Wisconsin would be best, but Illinois, Minnesota, or Michigan are acceptable too. Can anyone put me in touch with someone like that? Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Well, she's slowly crumbling apart as she's is made from paper mache and the years have not been kind to her, but Camille has spent the summer dressed appropriately in a 1908 white lawn and lace insertion dress that I suspect was made by the National Cloak and Suit Company. Sorry Camille... don't want to kill you! ;) -Justine. -Original Message- From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: h-cost h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, Sep 2, 2009 2:24 pm Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? It's that time of year! We're planning for holiday parties, fall winter balls, company dinners, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night and theater season. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something spiffy on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your worktable, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidery (was:Help! Enlarging with a photocopier)
That sounds like a good idea, both ideas do: Is there any chance you can find some embroidered fabric to use of the plastron and bodice back, and then appliqué some of the motifs onto straps made from plain matching fabric? and You can achieve very nice effects using basic stitches in interesting ways, or doing free- motion sewing - set stitch length to zero, lower feed dogs, get a darning or embroidery foot, and go! It takes practice, but you can create almost any pattern that way. If you need a guide, copy or trace the design onto thin paper, baste it to the project, and tear it away after it's done. I looked all over to work with my original idea, which comes close to what you were saying about appliqueing the embroidered parts... I wanted to find something I could use just as contrasting fabric but nothing turned up cause the material is very hard to match. I don't think the portable, new(er) sewing machine I end up using has a darning or embroidery foot, and I wouldnt know where to get one right now. But, the old beast of a machine, the Sears Kenmore from I think 1971 that comes in this huge open-out table/cabinet set up does I think. It's a very old school machine and complicated. while it can do alot. It has all the original accessories, and the other night I learned it has two or three hemming feet like I used on the commercial sewing machine 0Adoing replacement convertible tops a few years back so maybe I should take all my laundry room stuff off it, clean it up, and try using it. Once i get the pieces cut out I am going to get pricing for having them done, and if she gives me too high a cost I will try it on my machine. Its ashame, today a girl in my class was wearing a sweatjacket with the exact kind of embroidery i would like! Thank you again everyone who is helping me with this project, it means alot and hopefully when it gets done I'll have made something not too terrible of it. Take care:) -Justine. -Original Message- From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 7:14 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery (was:Help! Enlarging with a photocopier) Long long time ago I made my prom gown out of a white linen fabric that had an overall pattern of embroidered roses. My shoes were also white linen, and I cut two roses out of the leftover fabric and appliquéed them onto the side-fronts of my shoes. From only inches away you couldn't tell they were sewn on. Is there any chance you can find some embroidered fabric to use of the plastron and bodice back, and then appliqué some of the motifs onto straps made from plain matching fabric? Or would that be too much bulk? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Aug 31, 2 009, at 11:32 PM, Pierre Sandy Pettinger wrote: Justine, What sort of machine do you have? You can achieve very nice effects using basic stitches in interesting ways, or doing free- motion sewing - set stitch length to zero, lower feed dogs, get a darning or embroidery foot, and go! It takes practice, but you can create almost any pattern that way. If you need a guide, copy or trace the design onto thin paper, baste it to the project, and tear it away after it's done. It takes more time than having a fancy embroidery machine, but remember - good (read fancy), fast, cheap - pick two! HTH, Sandy At 09:19 PM 8/31/2009, you wrote: What complicated things, is that the dress calls for a plastron, bodice back, and trimming all made from the dress fabric but embroidered, or a really nice contrasting fabric. It won't work without having the strips of material for trimming, because they are used to hold the back parts of the polonaise together with buckles. I foresee in the near future, spending alot of money to have them embroidered by my friend around the corner with the much needed embroiderer. Pity I don't have that king of all computerized home embroidering machines at a beautiful ...$6k... (oy) now. When i went to Joann's my goal was to find some sort of contrasting but harmonizing wide tape trim or ribbon to use i nstead. Had I found some, that would have left me up the creek without a paddle for the plastron and bodice back so i think embroidery like originally used, even real fast sparse embroidered motifs, are best. -Justine. Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier
The home fabric deptarment IS very nice, esp for the heavier winter fabrics. I bought a load of stuff this past weekend, some which I need and some not now, but could definitely picture using for other projects later. That's how fabric shopping works! Those who don't do it, just don't get it and always wonder why we buy stuff we aren't using right now. Because! That's why!! You will never find a great deal on the same thing twice, ever. Atleast I've never had it happen. When you see something you love and you have the means to acquire it TAKE IT or else leave it and forget about since chances are it won't be there when you realize you should have gotten it. Take for example, Joann fabrics. I love their selection but boy does it hurt to use them as a main source of material for any project cause the bill is way too high. Last spring I went there to buy really elegant trims and just regular old cotton to make 1860's undies. A project that is still in the bag, literally. All i bought were a few yards of eyelet tape, lace beading, etc... my bill was $56! Now, most of the stuff I went there for and even turned down because it was too costly is now in the clearance bin for 97 cents a yard (I just learned there is no symbol on a computer keyboard for cents lol) so I bought a bunch of stuff, not needing it at this moment but well worth having. So, I haven't touched my bustle project in a couple days because I started back to class this morning and I was more or less occupied with preparing for that and for gathering materials. I spent $57 Friday night buying stuff, most of which is the aforesaid don't need right now stuff, another $81 (with my student discount) first thing Sat morning when i went back for the fabric I didn't know if there would be enough of left on the roll to use for the project, and $37 at Joann's Sat afternoon when i went back out to look for some other stuff. This is why i don't use my fabric more often, because it always involves spending so much more on notions and such. Do any other bustlers out there, or any period costumers for that matter, find that it REALLY costs alot to buy what is needed for doing these projects? Maybe I am just too picky with my fabrics and trims and spend more than i technically have to. Either way, this dress is not going to be ANYTHING like the original colour scheme I initially planned for it, and mainly because as usual there just wasn't any fabirc like what I wanted available. What complicated things, is that the dress calls for a plastron, bodice back, and trimming all made from the dress fabric but embroidered, or a really nice contrasting fabric. It won't work without having the strips of material for trimming, because they are used to hold the back parts of the polonaise together with buckles. I foresee in the near future, spending alot of money to have them embroidered by my friend around the corner with the much needed embroiderer. Pity I don't have that king of all computerized home embroidering machines at a beautiful ...$6k...(oy) now. When i went to Joann's my goal was to find some sort of contrasting but harmonizing wide tape trim or ribbon to use instead. Had I found some, that would have left me up the creek without a paddle for the plastron and bodice back so i think embroidery like originally used, even real fast sparse embroidered motifs, are best. Ok that was more info than I probably needed to share with the list, and in response to developing an eye for period correct fabrics, I guess it depends also on the person and their goal, as the expectations for period correctness vary alot. Some costumers are strictly by the book, aiming to acheive the most authentic museum quality reproductions, even if that means sacrificing overall attractiveness for using instead of frilly inaccurate materials what's left of the drab but period correct fabrics available today for the modern costumer, and some use fabrics I don't even want to talk about. I',m somewhere in between, I try to be correct to the point where my pieces really capture the feel of that period in colour combos, textures, weight, etc... and i worry much less about things like fabric content because where I shop, that's not even really possible to find out. I try to keep it within the realm of fibers used, if the print or weave is special I dont worry about it because the pieces are for me to enjoy only and foremost is how attractive they are without looking silly or entirely out of context. What are some good resources by the way, for researching period fabrics/fiber contents, dyes, weaves, prints, etc? I know elastic was available in the 1870s now, so i am going to use it as prescribed. -Justine. -Original Message- From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, Aug 30, 2009 11:56 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier Get on MJ's mailing list. They
Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier
Good afternoon! Here is an update, so far so good (holding breath) using the grid method is working well. I went with that initial idea to translate each of the 1/4 inch squares from the paper where I traced the 1/8 scale pieces in the book onto and into a block of 4 of the 1 squares on my drafting board instead of square by square as did with the 1/4 pieces. They look good, they look like they are nearly my size, maybe a little long... which is the easiest alteration to make! Now today once I finished redrawing the the back skirt piece (big) and the polonaise side piece I can get an idea of how much fabric I'll need, but will then be able to first make a mock up and really see how everything will fit. I've been making absolute use of my library on this project so I know what will really work on this dress. We have a few places I like to hit for fabric hunting but it's hit or miss and usually I only find great that stuff that I am not looking for, and never what I need. Where is a good place to find trimmings and fabrics for period costuming? MJ Trim (I think that's what it's called) out of NY has a lovely selection, if one can afford their prices. I could be wrong but it seems like some of the prettiest fabrics for period looking ensembles are decorator/home fabrics! They just have that oomph with colouring and pattern that most modern dress fabric lack. In the future I might try using the photocopier technique however. I already made the effort with the grid and have the roll of plain paper. Take care and happy Saturday! It's my last two days of freedom before classes start again :( -Justine. -Original Message- From: bphal...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 10:58 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier Also some copy places, Office Depot is one, have what are called blueprint printers that can enlarge pieces up to 36 inches wide.? The trick is to know what percentage to tell the copy operator.? The advantage of this is that you are not taping many letter sized sheets of paper together for a pattern. Britta/Vasilisa -Original Message- From: Viv Watkins viv.watk...@virgin.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 2:34 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each peice!?? ? I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for pattern pieces. Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to four inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length. I just experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set a 'custom' %. You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then enlarge your enlargements! You just need time and to be ready for 'millions' of sheets of paper. But once you have it worked out you can get your pieces and sellotape them together!? ? Good luck? Viv ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Hi all. Well, I started battling the grid method last night. I started by tracing the pieces onto the 1/4 graph paper and I felt like everything was going great... and I knew exactly how to dive into the next step, which is redrawing the unscaled pieces using the 1 grid cutting board. Here's where I tripped... the pieces are in 1/8 scale. Two pieces provided however are in 1/4. I began to question how I am supposed to do the enlarging from that scale and maybe I was just overtired but nothing was making anymore sense to me so I stopped for the night. My goal today is to see about finding somewhere that has a projector, maybe the library, or even finding a cheap one I could pick up at the office supply store. Either way, I mean no matter how I enlarge them it is true, I already knew that doing mock-ups from muslin will be my first chore before I start planning how much material to get from a finished pattern set. Luckily, hopefully, I have time for this trial and error period. I will be wearing the full period undergarments under the dress, nor do I mind the period-correct limited range of motion that was designed into the clothing. It's probably the shoulders and height I'll have to adjust since while I'm not tall, 150 years ago I would be considered so, and my arms tend to be a tad unproportionately longer than they probably should be, even for today. Right now I'm worried just about getting full size patterns. Take care:) Justine. -Original Message- From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 11:43 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! No matter how you blow up the one period pattern you have, you're still only getting the pattern that was made for that one person in their particular proportions. No matter what you do, you're going to have to do a mock-up, and pinch and tweak and fiddle till you have a pattern for you. But I think you knew that :-) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu wrote: Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate between sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the armscye, for example, too large, too small, or in the wrong place. It's a place to start, though. Patty From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge. If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some good book or good teacher to help learn. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help!
Well... my progress wasn't too great today since I was busy all afternoon doing other things, but I went to Staples first to see if they had projectors while I was there pricing large-format copies and they have two models, both $199. That seems like an awful but it's Staples, office supplies. Maybe Michael's has different kinds, perhaps if theirs are less the kind they stock are more intended for hobby purpose as opposed to an office supplier selling a heavier duty stock intended for use in a business, so Michael's is the next venture. Initially my instinct was to work out the difference between 1/4 and 1/8 the same way suggested, since 1/8 is half, so to make up the difference use two boxes instead but i got all frazzled trying to figure out how. I think I might know now. My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each peice!? -Justine:) -Original Message- From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com To: h-cost...@indra.com; h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2009 3:02 pm Subject: [h-cost] Help! Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to, since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc. I was at Michael's yesterday and they had 3 different projectors that weren't horribly expensive. Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] HELP!
Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to, since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc. Where can the gridded pattern pattern be found? I do believe I've seen the gridded quilters interfacing at the craft store and will give them a call today to see if they carry any. I once scaled up a pattern for a skirt from Jane Arnold's book and it went amazingly well, size adjustments weren't even necessary in the end. What made it easier was the fact that her patterns are laid out over the 1/4 grids, whereas the pattern parts in the Frances Grimble books are just on plain paper. I guess it's time to tear the house apart to find my olf writing tablet that has the 1/4 graph paper on the back so I can trace them first onto there, and maybe use tissue paper to redraw them over my 1 grid quilting board? I'll see how far I get first just trying to get workable patterns from the book before I continue worrying about how to piece the dress together. The one thing I am curious about is using the tapes on the skirt without boning as described in the original instructions for how the dress is made. What were they for, are they meant to be moveable like the pleating tape they sell for window shades that has little rings where cord is run through to open and close, but in this case so one can adjust the skirt freely and as desired? I've studied period pieces, bustle styles but only have one early original in my collection do far to study from in terms of construction inside and out, but it was a very basic piece that I think was remade from a hoop skirt, so it lacks all the pleats and folds of the elaborate later styles, just cartridge pleating along the back waistband. Unless there was an overskirt that was lost. Thanks again and talk soon. -Justine. -Justine. -Original Message- From: Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 10:42 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if that is not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch must equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the pattern pieces would give a bust of 4 inches, you have to enlarge at least 10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is 2.5 inches. It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one and the large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across the top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two. All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to adjust a pattern you already have. For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the back. You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel on each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the back at the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest. If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin, folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an overskirt from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you need to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a closure that is invisible. A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing. Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape the bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs. Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic boning--I had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere. The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy something authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian. Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without illustrations! Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] HELP! Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my
Re: [h-cost] Elliptical crinolines
Can't you go as a woman who just returned from France, or where ever) and therefore knows the latest fashions? Dang! My thoughts exactly, you said it before me :D Especially New Orleans, I'm sure there were many who were still very closely tied to and in contact with Parisian society, so it would hardly be unreasonable for this to have happened. Now, if you were going to a small dance in the mid west or something of that sort, and even if you attended the dance portraying someone of local elite, they probably still were unlikely to be as versed in high fashion as perhaps a creole. Keep in mind that ladies had a preference for their French lady's maid to all others because of the supposed fashion expertise they were known for. I would go with the elliptical so long as the actual styling of the gown doesn't advance too far in fashion. I went to a ball once that was Civil War era in an elliptical style gown, and later it was posted that that style was inappropriate for ball attire, even though by 1865 it was even more likely a wealthy woman would be wearing the fashionable style so... in short, go with it and have a ball! -Justine J. -Original Message- From: Mathilde Bartholin li...@wanadoo.fr To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 10:51 am Subject: [h-cost] Elliptical crinolines Hello everyone, Next october I'm attending a Civil War ball which is supposed to take place in New Orleans in may 1862. Would it be too early to wear an elongated crinoline (something along these lines : http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/103.html ) ? I know this shape will be more common around 1865, but I've seen evidence of elliptical hoopskirts as soon as 1862 (a sketch of a Thompson cage crinoline), and I was wondering if it was something usually worn, or still considered haute couture at that time. Any thoughts on the subject from more knowledgeable people would be welcome ! Thank you all for your help, Mathilde ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hook Eye closures (was Club for enthusiasts o...)
Good evening all and thanks for the input. One time Hancock fabrics near my house was going out of business and everything was on clearance. I was always hesitant to buy the tape only because it was so expensive! They wanted like $15 per yd which to me, was really overpriced. But of course there is always that project that is running way behind and needs to be done like an hour earlier and I was desperate so I sent my dad over to get me a yard and a half on clearance, and it still added up, but boy what a difference! The only problem I had, unless there are other kinds (and after this I am going to search online and see what's out there) the hooks and eyes seemed a little too big for most wearable projects, especially for lightweight summer fabrics. With my machine I can't drop the feed thingies but it has a little cover you place over them. I did my row of about 50 eyes with the machine and the zigzag stitch, It took a while but not nearly as long as by hand. By hand definitely results in much stronger and evenly placed closures it seems. However, while it is always a better idea for me to do them each by hand, when there is a real time shortage it's not always possible to do that type of careful work. The hooks are always the biggest problem, mostly in lining them up evenly. This must be the type of skill that is acquired cause mine usually come out so poorly and when the outfit is on and they are closed you can always see the opening spread, or part of the hook. Why can't they bring back bars instead of just selling the round eyes? I don't know if any of you have ever come across these, but on one of my period gowns from the 1880's the bodice closes with little black hooks and eyes that are quite unsual, and hard to explain, but the hook slides over and the eyes or bars have like a flap so that when the hook slides over it catches with ease and closes automatically and holds it tight so it won't pop open again! They must have been a new patent at the time and just did not survive. Really was a good idea no less. Take care and have a lovely weekend, and happy Easter to those who celebrate it :) -Justine J. -Original Message- From: stils...@netspace.net.au To: Historical Costume Sent: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 7:42 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hook Eye closures (was Club for enthusiasts o...) Ps: does anyone know a really easy way to securely and evenly attach the corresponding hooks of hook and eye Have you tried hook and eye tape? I've seen two kinds, one is rather flimsy, studs. I've heard it works well, but I've not bought any yet. I tend to Hook and eye tape is great, even used for corsetry during the Roman empire, according to Gladiator. It is easy to use for a good line-up of hooks and eyes. The colours of the tape are limited but you can usually dye the white stuff to suit. You can also place the stuff inside your garment with only the metal showing if you are very careful. The only real problem comes with machine sewing, the studs can be lumpy under the machine foot or push you off course; try a one-sided foot, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Club for enthusiasts of the Victorian and Edwardian periods
Hello all! While I know this is not related to costuming, a friend suggested sending a memo to my fellow costume list members. I am starting a club based in the Philly area that is dedicated to appreciating the 19th and early 20th centuries. We are called the Delaware Valley Ladies and Gentlemen Society, and anyone who shares this dedication and would like a way to outlet it in a more informal way without having to pay to join an organization to do so, is welcome to join us. The website is still under constructed as we have not yet held a first club meet, but the address is: www.ladiesandgentssociety.com We have a couple costumers (including myself) who are interested in being members which is a good start though it would be nice to get others involved in this region who enjoy this era immensely but perhaps lack any idea that there are ways of going about expressing such appreciation. Again, I don't think this is exacly relevant to the costume list but just thought I'd try to get the word out a little in case anyone would be interested. Thanks for your time and take care:) -Justine. Ps: does anyone know a really easy way to securely and evenly attach the corresponding hooks of hook and eye closures without it taking hours? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabrics posted for sale
This email reminded me that I never came back to mention that I've finally posted the photos of the fabric on swapsell, along with the information. I suppose it would help to include the link, wouldn't it? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/photos/album/2102167231/pic/list I think this is the right link, it SHOULD work, but I am not always very saavy with these things, especially since I'm new to yahoo groups. If this link doesn't work for whatever reason please get back to me. Or, if you know the right process for this any recommendations will be much appreciated :D Hopefully things are smoothing out finally and everything is ready to go. Talk soon and take care. -Justine J. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Pics of taffeta:
Hello everyone. I know I know, sorry about the photos, I didn't realize that photos didn't open in emails on the list, wish I had known that before I spent a half hour loading all of them and then sending each message one at a time as it went through. I went onto the yahoo group that was recommended, the one which has been established for h-list members to use for posting and am still awaiting a confirmation or approval to the group so... ready when they are to start loading the pics there so I can then email the links here. Sigh. Again, sorry fo the confusion, it hit me too. Take care:) -Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Plaid taffeta:
Hi everyone! No this isn't a repeat of an old post, I am getting back to those of you who were interested in knowing more about the taffeta I was asking for information on about how to go abouts selling it on ebay. I apologize for taking so long to get back to you but I recently started the spring semester at school and have no had time to take pics of the fabric or anything until recently. I tried to send this email last week only there was an error in sending and did no go through so it had to wait til today. I have some pics to post of the fabric but I think trying to send all of them at once is what ultimately caused the error, since I have a dial up connection and probably was taking too long. Instead, I am going to submit the pictures for each fabric as individual posts. Again, this is really gorgeous stuff and it's ashame to have it just stored away without being used and feel certain someone made need it more urgently. I've never had the fortune of coming across plaid taffeta like this before which is why I stock piled it in the first place. The 60 inch width is perfect for costuming too and I had planned to make some pretty gowns for myself but since we started renovating where my sewing room is I haven't done any projects at all and do not foresee the end of the renovation anywhere near. Enjoy the pictures and if you are interested in any of it please email me back. I purchased it for $8 per yard originally over a year ago but am selling it for $6 so that I can just clear the space some, mostly so it won't go to waste. Take care:) -Justine J. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Pink Plaid taffeta:
Here is what the pink on pink plaid taffeta looks like, this I have two rather large cuts of, one is abotu 8 yards and the other is 21 1/5 yards total. They were measured but I never wrote down what each was so with the exception of the 21 1/5 that I know is the right measurement, I am estimating for the time being. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Dark gray/silver plaid taffeta:
This is very gorgeous fabric with a dark grayish/silver back ground and deep red plaid running through it. It was hard to try and capture the true colours of this fabric with my camera, although I came pretty close. It's hard to see it in the photographs but the fabric catches the light in a sort of mauve sheen which is absolutely breathtaking. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] White/gold plaid taffeta:
This is the prettiest taffeta and the largest amount. I believe I currently have about 30 yards of this rolled on a tube in more than one cut, and I think I might keep some for myself but there is more than I will ever need. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Plaid Taffeta:
Hello, I am trying to clear out some of my fabric because I don't have the time to make anything with it and was thinking of putting it up on ebay. However, I am not an experienced seller and was wondering if anyone would be able to suggest what may be the best way to go about listing it. I currently have (although I do not know for sure) about 30 yards in total of plaid acetate taffeta, 60 wide that I was going to use for costuming. Should I sell it by the yard or sell it in large chunks? 15 yards of that stuff weighs a ton and shipping would be astronomical. That is the part I am most unsure of at this time, is how I can possibly calculate shipping rates when I don't know where it will be going or how much anyone will want. Thanks alot and hope anyone can offer some recommendations. -Justine:) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Plaid Taffeta
Thank you so much for the suggestion on the flat rate shipping box, that would probably make the most sense. I wasn't able to get photos of the fabric today because the batteries in the camera are dead, also because it was really dreary outside and the lighting in my house is very dim so I am hoping to get up bright and early and take good photos of each kind, plus actually go through how much there is. As for knowing exactly what type of plaid or weave I am afraid I am not very knowledgable on types of fabrics, all I know is that it is taffeta and it was told by the sales person it is acetate. However, it really is very crisp and I have never come across anything like it before so I went crazy when I found it, but now I have no use for it and thought someone else would have better use of it than I. Some of it does have sheen to it, most of it has a little sheen. I have a beautiful pink on pink plaid, one is like a white with a soft goldish plaid which is my favourite, that I bought everything they had and have it rolled up on the tube, there is about 30 yds of that and I was hoping to keep enough just to use for myself one day on a bustle gown. The kind I have the least amount of and wanted to use in a winter velvet/tafffeta bustle ensemble is a taffeta in deep rust colours and certainly the most vibrant. It falls into both the brown and maroon families and has just the most lively sheen. The accuracy or period correctness of these fabrics is not necessarily there however and I know if used on any project they'd likely be much better suited for an earlier style, 1850s or 1840s, but I don't usually aim for incredibly authentic fabric when making things for myself, just so long as they look nice. I was hoping to sell it for $6 a yd which I think is pretty good, that way I just get my money back from the purchase. Being that it is 60inches it it certainly will go alot farther than the taffeta they sell at places like JoAnn that are only 45 and is much more rare I think. I'll be sure to keep posted and get pics up along with total yardage. There is also a purple on purple and a white with pink plaid, I'm not sure if I want to get rid of that yet but if anyone is interested let me know, they seem the least authentic to me. Talk soon and thank you all:) -Justine J. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Old fashion in fashion
Hello, I have found the same to be true where I am also and I actually find it a little frustrating, because my antique clothing dealer gets alot of trendy women from the city in her shop who look at her older things like camisoles and petticoats to turn into funky modern outfits, she firmly believes the same as I do that it is sacriledge, cause many of the people who buy the antique items for purposes of looking like a designer showpiece have intentions of altering and or butchering them for the same reason. A lady in a nearby shop who sometimes buys thing from my dealer really tries to cash in on this, she hires girls to help with sewing for her, rather underpaid too. She offered me a job once but I was not interested at all, I am a conservationist to some degree, atleast in preserving the clothing an appreciating what they represented from a bygone era where morals still meant something, as evident by the beautiful ways in which ladies chose modesty in fashion, atleast by today's standards. One of the common jobs she was telling me, is to take old bodices and gowns (I almost fainted) and she adds ZIPPERS to the backs so that young women can wear them as modern art pieces. She also was trying to sell me something that was attractive, a late Victorian capelet, for much more than it was worth, despite it's extent of damage, just because she had purchased in Paris. It was without any sort of label or marking also, and I couldn't believe her standards for business in a vintage clothing market. Unfortunately, she does make some business by people who just really don't understand or care at what cost their funky finds effect the market. It is interesting as you said to see people wearing bustle petticoats and such on the street as modern day wear, partly it is good because in buying new pieces like that they are readily available and ready to wear without fear of damage and can be used in inauthentic costuming or dressing up when you wish to portray the feel of Victorian or Edwardian style without wanting to go to dinner in an all out bustle or trained ensemble. It makes dressing in a rather old fashioned way a little more understandable to those who can recognize the look, because it has become fairly mainstream in that it's presence is out there in modern fashion, but most still do not recognize what it is, not where I live atleast, and some completely misinterpret my intentions all together. The thing that is funny is that I wear those peices as undergarments, layered in the correct way under modern old-looking outter wear, and cannot step outside the any longer dressed in just a slip or undershirt! It has actually come to feel wrong for me after having done it for so long. It would be nice to see those things more or less drop out of fashion as they seem to be gradually, though buying repro jewelery, boots, undies, etc. is easier, it has gotten hard to find those things in the last few years, whereas when my sister got turned on to acquiring fashion items which were of her long favoured period in time (since childhood) she was able to go out and buy repro boots and things at the local clothing store, if only I had been interested then and had money to shop, I would have stockpiled while it was available. I just long now for the Victorian look to go back to belonging to those who really have a passion and appreciation for historical fashions, it really hurls alot of bad information and impressions out there to those who aren't looking into it from a serious angle and only doing it for trend's sake. Just thought I would write a response to your message, it was very interesting to actually hear someone else make the same observation and wanted to share some of the experiences I've had in dealing with that situation. Take care:) Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Old fashion in fashion
I do agree with you Carol, most people would rather spend the least money for something they can wear out than a whole lot for a repro, but the way I see it is that repros are also more disposable unless made by one of a kind materials, because they can just as well be made again. That dress you got was a bargain! People did alter gowns, which is why antebellum gowns are more scare today than bustle gowns, because they cut them up to make bustle gowns later, but those weren't considered rare and antique items then, it would be like if you or I open our closet and say, yeah this skirt from 1995 is really pretty, I love the buttons and material but don't like the cut of it, so I will make a new skirt from it. It's different from saying, this beautiful antique bodice I am being sold seperately from the matching skirt that could be in a museum and 125 years old could make a really funky jacket like this that or the other designer had in the magazine, the one that all my friends liked. The same lady who sells me my antique clothing as I said would rather see them preserved, so she goes out of the way to hold them for me until I can pay them off, sort of like pay as you will indefinite layaway, which is really really generous of her. Atleast someone realizes the connection though, of fashion trends stemming from period movies, I saw a commercial for two models making their own clothing line with insipiration from art nouveau (having trouble spelling today) flowers, and state how they were used in fashion in the 1970s! Not alot of fashion consumers realize the connections of what they are wearing. When the gauzy boho look came around, people didn't realize alot of what that was wasn't just Victorian or Edwardian inspired, but more inspired by the Victorian and Edwardian style lacy and summer whites brought into fashion in the 1970s and early 1980's after things like Little House on the Prairie and Somewhere In Time came out. My mother loved that delicate femminine look, she owned Gunne Sax pieces to which I have inherited her favourite one. She no longer fits into it but it's a gorgeous, incredibly well made dress that really invokes a spirit of Edwardian femminity. The thing second worse to me than altering existing originals that can never be replaced for the sake of being in style is the misrepresentation of the term Victoriana, usually is consists of an ultra froufrou, lacy, flowery, modern concept of Victorian that really is reminiscent of Edwardian and not Victorian at all. Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Old fashion in fashion
Hi there, In regards to your question about petti coats holding their shape, I do knot what you mean, you'd think with all the weight the entire cage of a bustle would just go forward. Bustle support pads went on underneath the bustle cage and it set right over on top of that, filling in the empty space that would otherwise be forced forward under the weight of the gown. Also, gravity does have some effect on how the weight falls, many times just falling straight down and because of the angle of the bustle it doesn't always force it forward. I wear an original bustle for programs on Victorian era topics and find that without the modern hand made bustle pad underneath to support the cage, the dress will not stand out as strongly, so it really is a simple solution, though tournures and such existed to be used without a cage altogether or to be worn over the top of the bustle to soften the shape. This is a link for a page with various patterns for bustles, though I have never purchased any. http://www.agelesspatterns.com/bustles.htm Hope this helps, take care:) Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Knife pleating:
Hello, I bought material to make my first bustle dress, I am going to try and emulate a gown I have in a La Mode Parisiennes fashion plate from 1880 with consideration of Edna Pontellier's white cotton ensemble at the beginning of Grand Isle. What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create permanent creases? Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Corset Supplies:
Good afternoon, I know a great resource for corset supplies and ready made corsets, it is a corsetiere company and boutique located in Philadelphia, only minutes from where I live called Delicious Corsets. They have a website where you can find anything needed for making corsets from grommets and material to wood boning for early corset models, spoon busks, and patterns. It is the company I always do business with for any corsetting projects, they are pleasant to do business with and very helpful and if you live near them (which I doubt) they will place orders over the net or phone and allow you to come pick them up in person at the shop. The web address is: www.corsetmaking.com. Hope this helps and take care:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Where are the Lectures?
Hello, oy there are so many good things coming up in terms of lectures and classes in the near future but none of them are in the Philadelphia region! If there is anyone out there who knows of any or may have influence over the planning for such events PLEASE please please start coming to this immediate area, we're parch! Cape May and Gettysburg are close enough to make the trip for for specific events, however, those are pretty much the only nearest hubs for costuming. One is strictly for Civil War costuming and would you believe the tourists give strange stares to people in historic garb? Cape May has a wide range of things though I don't make it down there often, in fact I haven't yet. Both places are no less than three hours from here and many of the attendees to CM travel that far or greater to go so I wonder why there is never activity in the areas in between. Through one of my first posts, I was informed about the Costumers Guild which operates in my immediate area but as usual when there is or was such a group they are no longer active, I haven't recieved any response as of yet. Do any of you attend the annual conference hosted by the Genteel Arts out in Gettysburg? I have heard it is very good and will likely plan to go far enough in advance next year that it won't be booked up. Have any of you ever been asked to speak publicly about period clothing of any era? A lady friend of mine asked me a very lovely question last night and I may need a little advice before giving her a reply. She was told about my collection of antique clothing and my general passion for it, and asked if I ever hold public programs involving them. I told her I haven't yet but am honoured to be considered in doing so. The program would be about 45 minutes and I am trying to come up with a theme for it, a way in which I can utlize my collection for such a purpose since I am far from having a complete collection of anything. If anyone could offer any suggestions for a program theme and would need to know what I have to work with please email me directly. Take care everybody:) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Bottle green
I agree that because dye processes on each type of fabric varies, it would be hard to find one exact example of what bottle green is precisely, especially since the dyes and materials used in the early 19th century were different from what is readily available today but don't quote me on that as I do not know for sure. It is a good guess, however, that in calling it bottle green, it most likely did closely resemble the green glass that bottles were made with at that time, and those are probably more easily found to compare. Cobalt glass was gorgeous and it is makes me wonder whether or not the word was used as well in dye applications. This is a very old town, the third I believe in America to become a borough, and because we are located on the river, often times during low tide if you rummage through the stones on the bank you can find renmant shards of cobalt glass and other types of glasses. Sometimes you can find complete bottle necks or bottoms with the maker information on it and it would be interesting to research such information and try to track the original product. Particularly, remnants of old pottery and flatware turn up less often but are the most interesting to study, as people in those days did not have trash collection and therefore used the river as a place to quickly discard their rubbish. Hope you find out more about the colour and am curious to know more also. Take care:) Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: What is a serious costumer?
Hello and thank you for such wonderful replies to last nights' posting they were very helpful, structural, ideas to relfect on and things to look into. I cannot wait for some extra time to explore the links you sent to me Melanie. Some of them I recognize and have saved in my favourites but a good many look new to me:) In terms of what interests me most about costuming, it is very hard to say and off the top of my head many of the possible directions one may take with such an artform are equally appealing to me in that knowing which one to concentrate on most is difficult. I know it is hard to make steady, let alone good money using costuming as the basis for a career and if I could that would be wonderful. The elements I have found to be most rewarding or invigorating thus far have been in the actual styling of a garment's materials, trims, etc and developing a design. I enjoy that part moreso than the sewing since sewing the project is often tedious and time consuming and my skills not always good and it would be more fun in creating a new piece if I could complete it before I get tired of seeing it. I love anything about the Victorian era in way in which I want to jump through time and live that life and the fashion is an exciting part of it. Wearing of the garments is not just for special events or reenacting for me, it is somewhat of my lifestyle at this point and though it's hard to pull off a full bustle to go to the food store, there are ways to mix and match modern and old pieces to create an ensemble that carries the essence of old fashion. I collect period peices no matter what condition and enjoy the research alot. I attended Moore College of Art for two years in the fashion program and my sparked interest in wearing Victorian and Edwardian clothing coinsided with my first year in the majour, a school costume collection included. I started reconsidering my interest in joining the glamorous world of fashion design when it turned out to be fun learning how to go to stores and steal ideas from other designers to produce marketable lines of clothing that other people will want to wear and the notion of working for a large clothing label, probaly doing work that is somewhat related to the actual design of the clothing really didn't seem to me like a good career to spend so much money getting into so I left and have been spending the last three years fine tuning what exactly I would like to do. Lately I have become more connected with local historic sites and museum as well as organizations in hopes that what I know about the era may be put to some good use and I can share my knoweldge with the public rather than have it build up in my head and just look pretty around my house and never be used. Being a tour guide of sorts or living history actress would really work well for me and my goal now is to get back into school aand get a degree in art education. Sometimes you have make choices and I prefer to get a good steady job as soon as possible than wait many years and spend so much more money to try and get into a master's program to study costume conservation, which has become the ideal career path unceratin sucess. I am here writing to all of you, because there are some things I do well yet there are so many technical aspects to costuming I have not developed and to be an accurate costumer who hopes to educate other people reliably, it is getting those specific details to the clothing like colours, materials, etc (as mentioned in my post) and getting them right, that seems so just to be so out of reach to me. Do I like sewing? Yes I think so, but only when the project is going well. Maybe finding better ways to sew, or the correct ways in which to sew the styles of clothing I am working on would be helpful in making them look less homemade. Obviously there were specific techniques as available in alot of books that are not in my collection yet for stitching and assembling different parts of a garment that I have sewn in whatever way I could come up with just to make it work. In studying original peices, nearly all of what i have seen is far from perfect in comparison to our standards for modern commercially made clothing, I imagine because so many peices were made by local tailors or seamstresses, or at home. Through studying them I have learned some great things, like how to attach hooks and eyes much faster without having to keep cutting and knotting the thread by using a long continuous stitch. It would be wonderful to see the differences in the clothing I have and with couture pieces by Worth to see how they did such things. Again, I appreciate the information that was passed along and intend to look into it later. I am off to sleep because in about 13 hours I hope to visit the museum at FIT for the first time and see what they have. Have any of you heard about the Perelman center in Philadelphia, the newest
[h-cost] What is a serious costumer?
Good evening to all of you and hope my series of questioning doesn't seem silly but for some reason I am still having trouble trying to decypher the difference between an amateur costumer (myself, one who has a general knowledge of a topic) and one who is a serious costumer, or professional. Moreso, I am very much driven to enhance my education and skills as a costumer but just can't seem to learn what steps to take to increase my level! I know of the people who have specific period correct skills such as needlework, etc and those who reguarly attend specific classes, but find most of the options I have for reaching those resources of knowlege in person are separate from me by great divides, distance and finances especially. It is with hope that in joining this list, and now with keen interest in the wardrobe subscription that was mentioned in earlier posts today that being in communication with such groups is a good start, though it isn't certain how effective joining any amount of lists will be in turning my somewhat sedentary costuming hobby into something very sucessful and active. What does it take? How many hours about do those of you who are consider yourselves serious put into your work. Does using reproduced original patterns, altered modern period patterns, and self drafted patterns to construct a garment in period with period styling of fabrics, trims, etc. that is correct for fit, style, etc, count in calling oneself a costumer? When I have the chance, I will post photos of the work I have done and if it wouldn't be an inconvenience, I would greatly appreciate any working feedback on what I have done thus far, possibly on improvements or suggestions on what to try additionally. At this point, resources limited, I am not incredibly focused on having exactly authentic fabrics or trims, but am generally using the best I can find that still contains a rather period looking feel. Meaning, the material could be modern from Joann's and maybe not in material used in 1860 per se or possibly even an authentic colour, but is period looking and nothing obviously out of time frame. Luckily, despite many unsucessful google searches for period fabrics or reproduction fabrics, today I stumbled onto a website for a small supply store that can only be one that someone had told me about at a Civil War ball near Gettysburg last year. I was searching for millinery wire and in spotting the phone number curiously looked for the address as it was a recognizable area code. They sell what I believe to be civil war era fabrics for reenactors and other notions, I can't wait to trek out that way and visit this summer. It is the other elements of costuming that confuse me, such as where to learn what exact dyes were being used in each era, aside from what colours were represented in current fashion plates and the variations of skirt lengths and widths from year to year. Surely at this point in reading the many facets of direction I am in need of I seem like too much inexperience to be helped with one answer but any advice would help. thank you so much for your time, again:) Justine. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] fabric storage ...those darn Zipper -vacuum bags.....
I have never worked with those bags before, they look like they'd be really good to have around, if they work as they should however. My problem isn't in storing new fabrics so much as how to safely store away my garments. I am familiar with techniques for storing away vintage and antique textiles and garments, it's just that my house really prohibits me to do so well spacewise. At the moment most of my peices are hanging from padded hangers, with their skirt weight alleviated from gravity by being draped softly over a second hanger to remove the strain. I go in and rehang them every month or so so that creases don't form and any strain doesn't continually linger in the same place. I fear moths, since there seem to be many around here and this summer I plan first to remove the carpeting from my second floor, which is ancient (when was the last time people carpeted with red and rust orange?? Probably when people still paneled their walls with faux wood paneling and white faux wood panel on the ceiling!! I wanted some opinions on whether making unbleached muslin garment bags with zippers would help not only to keep dust off the garments, but keep bugs off as well so long as there are no openings for them to get into. I wouldn't bag them and leave them unattended forever, I would still check them regularly and at that point, for any bug holes, etc. I keep dark blinds in the room and closed to protect them from light as well as keep the door closed to prevent access heat to enter the room, as it gets very warm upstairs. The room is already a few degrees cooler, being that it is on the north side of the house. My only other fear is humidity control, it gets very dry in winter and humid in summer. Are there any reliable humidifiers out there that actually work? I have a cheap $20 one that operates in the front bedroom but according to my hydrometer, it makes little difference. I suppose that the comfortable location on the meter is deal moisture, not too high nor low. If anyone has any suggestions or opinions about this please let me know. Also, what is a good company to insure valuable items? My collection has been growing and now includes one or two pieces that were very costly and feel it may be best to get them insured soon. Talk soon:) -Original Message- From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 3:56 am Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric storage ...those darn Zipper -vacuum bags. The early forms had problems with keeping a seal I have had better luck with the new ones. The originals I keep for things that just need to be stored but not flattened. I did have a problem opening the new box form after I had sealed and vacuumed the air out. Definitely had a good seal as it wouldn't open and I ended up ripping it. :P -Original Message- I have used the 1 st generation vaccuum bags with mixed success, I packed away a large bag with sweaters in them ,all nice and flat, under my bed. About sweater time rolling around ,I tried to remove said bag. Unhappily, the seal failed along the way and my sweaters expanded .I had to have 2 people jack up the foot of the bed so I could extradite them. All the while I thought they were safe and sealed up they were open and gathering dust,smells and moisture. The bags I bought were from the original designer, not a Pic n save knock off, they had the zip lock bag trac along the top and I figured failed at the very edges of the trac. Maybe a strip of duct tape might have aleveated the problem,but they never mention that in the info-mercials. The very small sized bags seem to do better in not cutting loose the seal.,maybe size is a factor.Or if you don't smoosh the all the way down to the krinkley stage, the may work ok My experience on the matter, Melody Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My 2 cebts worth: I have used the Space Bags. They are great to keep stuff dry and clean. Also reduces bulk, somewhat, because they suck the excess air out. Susan On Feb 22, 2008, at 7:43 PM, Natalie wrote: I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags as I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags for garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen them advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, I hope that helps! Natalie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage locker (climate controlled). I might take a bug or two with me. Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack fabric for storage? I Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside) - Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re:Finding Information
Thank you for your wonderful advice again, I never thought to look in the back of the book for the sources where the author did the research from! This is something I got from ebay and thought it would be worth having, the original would be awesome but this is a copy of the entire book on cd rom: The History of Fashion in France or The dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time. From the French of M. Augustin Challamel. By Mrs. Cashel Hoey and Mr. John Lillie 1882 It has 293 pages which are said to be all included in the disc and for the price I paid for it ($8) I am sure it will be worth something without losing much. This seems like a good place to start for my own collection, minus the dozens of Dover paper doll books my sister and I have accumlated over the years. I have the Godeys fashion plate book, and the history of underwear, and the history of the corset and there are others I want still but it is time to get into the real researching. Those books are good for at a glance information, and the pictures are stimulating too of course. Moore College of Art in Phila is where I went and they had a good library too, I think there would be no problem with me getting in there and looking around and perhaps atleast making printouts. they did have antique books in there that were costume porfolios but I think they were ethnic costumes, worth taking another look at though. Take care Justine:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bad books:
After I checked my mail this morning and got all the tips about researching, starting with cconsulting the back of the book, I went and looked in the back of some of my books! One book wasn't a book on fashion, but in it the author rather studies and compares the differences between our society today and Victorian society, and how many of the things that are bad today are the result of things that changed from that era, it really is fascinating and she nails many good points in the head. The bibliography is huge! Most of the literature consists of books written in the 1980s and 90's but there are a few titles, most reprinted, from the 1880s and I noticed that most of those were reprinted by one specific publishing company, so I will look them up. I will be sure to send along any bad books I get but most of my purchases are done so with care to avoid that sort of problem. However, I recall quite a few of those basic costume through history books on our library shelves that were printed I guess mainly for kids doing reports on a specific time period or someone doing a play. Our library system also has the network so that you can reserve/order books from any other library within the system and it's fairly fast cause I did it once, our branch here, though the prettiest library you can imagine, has a very poor selection on such topics for serious researchers, sadly. Even the other titles from other locations were again those broken down overview books where one person has done all the hunting and gathering and sloshed it together into one book. I will remember now that whenever I have one of those, to get a piece of paper and pen or pencil and just browse through the back of it. I have an original book of etiquette from 1880 so I take much of the content of that book more seriously than I would a new book about the Victorian era only such form varied from place to place and what rules applied in one town may not have been weighed so heavily in others. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Finding information:
Hello everyone, I have just been observing your posts to one another, fascinated by the topics. Earlier periods aren't quite my interest but I find the bits of knowledge you contain very interesting. That is my second problem as a costumer, scholarly research. Aside from going onto websites and reading in timeline books where all the information is already researched and digested for others to read, which is my main source of learning, where do you find this stuff? The only thing I have thought of is to go to a library but than I wonder, where to beging digging deep into the collection to find original sources of info. The Victorian fashion era seems to be vwidely available on an informal research scale but where may I look for resources of the hardcore information that serious historians and researchers study before relaying all they've learned to the rest of us? One of these I will hit the FIT book store up in the fashion district, since they have not only a large collection but a course focusing on preservation and curatorial studies. Take care:) Justine More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Ball dress
Thank you Lynn for your advice, TV patterns have a good vibe about them, people who use them seem satisfied and being that you said they have good instructions makes me all the more certain that that will be where my patterns are purchased from. Ageless has all the same patterns they do, not sure which of their patterns classify as ageless as opposed to TV or folklore patterns, etc. I wonder if there is a haute couture's secret dressmaking and design bible floating around somewhere from way back when that has all the good information on how to create a totally custom style, cause the styles you see reproduced (not to say there aren't reproductions being made so well you can't tell the difference) are rarely varied in pattern when there are so many unusual methods of bustle, skirt, sleeve, drapery and bodice treatments of the originals. We get to use what is available of printed patterns from then with inspiration taken from original examples but someone knew how to create them from their head and that's sweet. Lots of money to the person who develops the skill of custom pattern drafting in historical reproduction clothing. :) Justine. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Ball dress:
It is that time, I have to plan making not only my first bustle gown, but probably best if I get a bustle era ball gown knocked out of the way since I do not have one. What is a good pattern to start with? I keep finding a pattern on ebay called Buckaroo Bobbins and it is a pattern for a polonaise and bustle skirt but I am not sure if it would be a good pattern, it could be just as unathentic as the one or two incredibly inaccurate patterns produced by the large companies. The polonaise gown looks easy enough but with out any experience it may be alot harder than thought to be. Would it be best to try out that era first with something simple to get the feel for it? When I do make the ball gown, it isn't going to be an easy 1-2-3 peice like my others to date so maybe if there are any bustlers out there you could share some hints on how to get started and what to avoid/try. Goodnight and thanks, Justine:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Cape May/Morris Co
Susan, do you do any costuming? You mentioned you are more a horse person so I wondered if you wear any particular riding garb. I have gotten the impression that the Morris Co. historical society is a very active group with a large membership in terms of costuming, dancing, etc. Last year I attended a vintage fashion show and tea in Scranton and many of the attendees and/or participants were from there. As a matter of fact, only a week or two after was their Victorian Fest at Acorn Hall and Fosterfeilds but it was too much travel for our car to make another long trip so I am shooting for this year. I just became a member of the board of directors as well as the chairperson for ways and means at my local historical society, they are fairly active and do try to mix it up but I hope my presence there now may influence the programming and we can integrate more living history programming similar to that of what groups in surrounding areas pursue. It seems the hardest thing is making initial contact with people who share such interests, even moreso in finding anyone willing to participate publicly as if they are too shy to bring their costuming into the public eye or just do not keep such hobbies at all, being that criticism is very harsh around towards people who do something historical. It is heartbreaking and I am sure there are critics everywhere, in other areas though the interest seems to overcome fear of not keeping up with the Jones' so to speak. Every year we have a traveling civil war encampment that comes to a local state park with battles and a camp village with tradespeople and merchants which is great fun. They do not advertise this and even the fact that this is going on all over the park, was unfortunate to overhear a couple of young kids making comments to one of the encampment ladies in costume. I recall the reference to her in her civil war garb as being princess leah. How nice that you are horse person, horses are wonderful creatures. One day it would be nice to have some land and keep one. Only small pets are easy to keep where I live, it is an almost urban landscape, just we have yards of a bit larger scale than those in the inner city. Do they make costumes for horses? I made costume for my rabbit one Halloween. Take care:) Justine More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Waistcoat:
Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am pleased, it looks like porcelain i think. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm; __ That is absolutely stunning, is the embroidery hand done or by machine?? There's an art I would love to learn. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Embroidery
Anyone who can embroider ultimately has my respect. It is amazing what that embellishment can do for any project, how it can alter it so much in appearance. A lady friend of mine brought some of her Chinese antiques for display at our China themed tea and what she had was amazing. She bought them there years ago for a song and are probably worth over a thousand dollars! She had a skirt going back to the 1800s (not sure which dynasty that would have been) but let me tell you.. it was made of a series of different coloured silk panels all pleated over one another vertically, and each panel was hand embroidered the full length!! She had many peices of the same quality and all the embroidery was done by hand and it was so fine, that you could NOT find a single knot on the back, the embroidery was reversible!! We guessed that the artists must have used a continuous stitch but the use of colours in each design was immense so it's mind boggling trying to understand how. There was a peice of embroidery that was a decorative piece, it was a little white cat chasing a grasshopper but it was set in round glass with a round wooden frame and stand and all there was was the cat and the grasshopper further down, they weren't even connected and it was too reversible, it looked so real the rendering of the fur! More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Cape May:
Susan, it is about three hours from where I am and too far for a one day trip, I suppose staying overnight is a good idea but most of the bbs and hotels in Cape May have really increased rates because of it being such a tourist area. Can ladies attend the dances without a partner? I was told that it doesn't matter because with dance cards partners change throughout the night anyhow. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Black Linen
Hello all, I am new to the list and this is my first post! :) In regards to the dilemma with what to do with the 5 plus yards of black linen, I know from experience that when something good like that lands on your lap it's very hard to chose a project with it later, my bins are full of about 5 yd cuts of absolutely gorgeous satins and laces that I am afraid to use because there is only enough for one dainty outfit and then it's gone. When the black linen comes to mind, the late Victorian or Edwardian period definitely is a good era to use it on, so many suits and things were made with black linen. In fact, the dress Rose's mother is wearing in the scene when they are touring the ship comes to mind also. You can make a slim walking suit with that and use a white silk and light coloured or even brightly coloured lace in addition to that. I need some advice on accessory making, particularly hats. I have only made one hat and it was entirely without the assistance of a purchased pattern. I would like to start making more Victorian and Edwardian era small accessories as well, not just garments though I am not sure where to start or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority who have made them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat making class? Justine:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Millinery:
In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. I am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast offers the best variety, I was considering going to the costume college this spring but it was sold out, maybe next year. About the hats, there are a couple in my possession that are opened underneath and you can see the innerds, they usually tend to be made up much in the same way, with a wire frame and buckram or some sort of hay stuffing. Were there specific rules to those things in those days or did the milliners just make them the best they could using their own skills to replicate the latest fashions I wonder? The tricky part seems to be creating hats or bonnets with asymetrical frames, moreso to cover them with fabrics such as velvet where the material seemed to perfectly fitted. The trimmings were so unusual at times, I have a tiny little bonnet that is overflowing with an assortment of trims, many of which I don't think I could even identify! It's hard to find such trimmings in the modern market. There are little tiny metal balls in the size of peas dangling all over, stiff curly thin gold stems sticking out all over, the usual vibrant coloured silk foliage, lace, velvet tabs, etc. Thank you for the suggestion on the book by Denise Dreher, that will be the next Amazon search. Goodnight:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] mailing list:
Hello, I am trying to locate the discussion board but think I have to send an email to your here first, unless this is just for a separate mailer which is fine also. Thanks. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
