Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
I was thinking shoulder strap too...It sound like you may have to unpick the strap seam, and take up the front shoulder at an angle from it's original, not touching the original back shoulder seam. You may also want to interline the bodice with your interlining cut so the shoulder strap is on the straight of grain. Kelly On 3/3/06, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, Yet another possible cause, the shoulder strap wants to lie slightly outside or inside of where it was designed to go. You may have to release the side CB seams, then pivot or slide the section until the straps lie right. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
My experience, based on antique bodices in my collection, features this fitting mode only on the lining or under bodice. This point of fitting is then 'upholsterd by the outer fabric that is draped and tweaked in such a manner that the adjustment is not obvious. A dressform is definitely a plus for one of these constructions. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 2:12 PM Subject: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, and about the same length across the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice fits beautifully... I also had this problem on my princess-line tea gown using their pattern... But I thought it was due to the weight of the fabric, but that can't be the case for my current bodice... Does anyone have any suggestions for how to handle this fitting problem? Should I make the armhole bigger (and if so, should it be lower side front, lower side back, or the bottom? I'm afraid if I widen the armhole it'll just pull the armhole out of shape due to the pull...) should I let the side seam out a little bit? I thought about putting padding inside the bodice ther! e, but there is very little room... And the bodice is satin so it shows every little crinkle or dent - unfortunately you can even follow the line of the lace on the chemise if you look closely. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you, -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
On 3/3/06, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, and about the same length across the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice fits beautifully... I'm sure you've thought of these, given your professional training, but I thought of another possible cause, the stress lines are actually due to slight bias stretch. Fix this by interlining with straight grain goods (selvedge offcuts are traditional) or tailors tape, tho this may be too heavy if your chemise lace is showing thru. Yet another possible cause, the shoulder strap wants to lie slightly outside or inside of where it was designed to go. You may have to release the side CB seams, then pivot or slide the section until the straps lie right. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
This is kind of what I meant when I spoke of doing a fine-fit with the lining before you add the garment fabric. A well fitted muslin will deal with some if not all the problems of possible bias when the the outer fabric is added. Most of all my antique jackets were constructed in this way. There seems to be a slight change in the shape and the wearing when the two layers come together. My experience, anyway. This is one area that really shows up when modern patterns try to emulate the ninteenth century fit...starting with the shoulder seam sitting squarely on the shoulder. Another way the seamstresses seemed to solve the problem is with a little wadding in the armhole area. If you are using an antique construction, maybe adding the padding which will also give a look of a fuller bustline, is what is missing in your calculations. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: sunny sunshine buchler [EMAIL PROTECTED]; h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 1:47 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice On 3/3/06, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, and about the same length across the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice fits beautifully... I'm sure you've thought of these, given your professional training, but I thought of another possible cause, the stress lines are actually due to slight bias stretch. Fix this by interlining with straight grain goods (selvedge offcuts are traditional) or tailors tape, tho this may be too heavy if your chemise lace is showing thru. Yet another possible cause, the shoulder strap wants to lie slightly outside or inside of where it was designed to go. You may have to release the side CB seams, then pivot or slide the section until the straps lie right. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
Thank you everyone for your help! Letting out the tops of the side seams just a smidge and then adding dress improvers seems to have done the trick :-) Thank you very much! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, and about the same length across the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice fits beautifully... I also had this problem on my princess-line tea gown using their pattern... But I thought it was due to the weight of the fabric, but that can't be the case for my current bodice... Does anyone have any suggestions for how to handle this fitting problem? Should I make the armhole bigger (and if so, should it be lower side front, lower side back, or the bottom? I'm afraid if I widen the armhole it'll just pull the armhole out of shape due to the pull...) should I let the side seam out a little bit? I thought about putting padding inside the bodice ther! e, but there is very little room... And the bodice is satin so it shows every little crinkle or dent - unfortunately you can even follow the line of the lace on the chemise if you look closely. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you, -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
