Since there's only very few patterns for floral Bucks: will there be a
book by Alex eventually? (... hopes flying high ...). And what is
Part 2 CG?
Best, Achim
Alex got me into Floral Bucks
(further than Part 2 CG did) last month,
-
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Morning All
We can be hopeful on a floral bucks book by Alex... CG is an
examination board in Britain. It actually stands for City and
Guilds. The Part 2 is the second part of the exam!
Hope this helps.
Sue in East Yorkshire
On 13 Jun 2008, at 08:28, Achim Siebert wrote:
Since there's
Hi All
Thanks for the tips you sent me. I have had a go at making leaves but when
looking through lace books they never really tell you how many times to go
back and forth. But then again at the laceday I was told you do as many as you
want to get the thickness. I think the problem I had was
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Wendy Davies
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
Am I right in thinking once I have mastered leaves then Beds or is it Bucks
will be the next lace type to have a go at. At the moment I am working on my
first Milanese pattern the Humming Bird.
There is no set pattern as to
HiThis will be my first attempt at posting on the lace digest
so hopefully I will succeed.I am newish to lace so please excuse any
silly comments. On the subject Leaves and Tallies, on our Lace day in
Haverfordwest some one told me that it is easier to make leaves and tallies
using
Hello Wendy
Well done on your first post :)
(post again, post often!)
Good question.
It might be that making a leaf with wire is 'easier' than with thread (and
they do look nice), but the two substances are quite different to handle. If
you want to try the wire to see how the weaving process
I think this was meant for the entire list - a good tip about using wire:
Subject: Re: [lace] leaves and tallies - with wire
To: bevw [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wire also breaks if you have to redo a section. If you're careful, you can
generally get away with re weaving it once. Twice if you're REALLY
Can I ask what are 'insect pins in what way are they different to quilting
pins (which seem to be a bit thick anyway). I have some of those and some
of the things I think you perhaps call berry pins, smaller than quilt pins,
thinner than them but still with the coloured tops.
Sue T Dorset UK
Insect pins are made for mounting insect specimens on a display board.
There must be a huge demand for these things, because they're readily
available in shops on the internet. They come in a number of sizes from
very, very fine (000) to big (7). The heads of these pins are just a
tiny
Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So... here's the next explosive subject for debate:WHAT TO DO WITH
THE WORKER AND MATE at the end of the tally???
- Carry on, as normal...
- Do a knot to secure the tally...
- Do a half-hitch to help secure the tally...
I can pretty
I was told that traditionally there were no knots on the tally. HoweverI
go with expediency rather than strict tradition and a tiny knot will not show
in the finished work.
The most effective way to secure a tally at the end is to put a single knot in
the two-passives pair, not the
That's a given!! But I've found that with a fine pin and patience, I've
been able to take out even a full knot. Still... a half-hitch works
nearly as well, and is easier to take out.
I also find that if I don't do *something*, even if I'm very careful,
I'll collapse those lovely tallies,
Thanks, Alice, for your helpful thoughts!! It's nice to know a
lacemaker of your experience is also using a knot!! I'd love to become
skillful enough not to do that, but I'm not there yet!!
Clay
Alice Howell wrote:
I was told that traditionally there were no knots on the tally.
A half hitch is the way I usually end leaves. A supporter pin, is also
very helpful, and secures the leave while the pairs are waiting to be
worked again.
On square tallies, it is also useful to put 2 supporter pins, at right
and left of the tally, taking them out as soon as the pairs are
Carolina de la Guardia wrote:
A half hitch is the way I usually end leaves. A supporter pin, is
also very helpful, and secures the leave while the pairs are waiting
to be worked again.
On square tallies, it is also useful to put 2 supporter pins, at right
and left of the tally, taking them
Good idea. For medium to large threads, I use the long yellow-headed quilting
pins as temporary markers.The yellow tops glare at me until I remove them.
I can see the value of insect pins with painted heads for temporary pins in
fine-threaded laces. Thanks for the idea.
Alice in Oregon
A refinement on the leaves as described by Tamara: The most important
thing about getting them regular and smooth is tension. And this
means constant tension on the two outside threads. When Tamara says
that she had difficulty with this (needed the services of a
chiropractor...), I know
I, too, found it impossible while using East Midlands bobbins. But I
could do it using Continental bobbins - they're just that much
thicker and easier to grab while your hand's contorted!
On 2 Jun 2008, at 17:45, Tess Parrish wrote:
Now for the hard part--which the lacemakers in Brioude
Hello everyone -
I have also had my turn with trying to learn this technique. Anny
Noben-Slegers demonstrated this during a workshop a couple of years ago
- using Binche bobbins. She seemed to be made of more flexible stuff
that I am!!! (Not to mention more genius, more grace, more
On 2 Jun 2008, at 21:05, Clay Blackwell wrote:
WHAT TO DO WITH THE WORKER AND MATE
Nothing. I use Christine Springett's method for making leaves/
tallies - slow but sure - and the weaving is so tight that you don't
have to do anything at the end. I've even packed my pillow in my
I almost always end a leaf tally with a half-stitch (CT, occasionally TC if
'C' is required to start the next bit). The hs acts as a lock.
I'm not bad at leaf tallies now, on the cookie pillow, and I can even
'leave' the pillow with the 'leaf' half-finished, and resume some other time
without the
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