http://www.realtechnews.com/posts/2145
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
http://wsbradio.com/news/111505gaslist.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
When I changed mine. I put in 6 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes to
fill the oil filter/galleys. Turn the engine off. Let the car sit
overnight add oil in the morning to bring it to the proper level.
Mike Piles
1985 300SD
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Testicle? Testicle?
Scott Ritchey, Kittrell, NC
1982 300 SD 225K miles
1979 300 TD 355K miles
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Nov 17 05:12:21 2005
Received: from mail.vla.com ([65.19.58.5] helo=mail.losalamos.com)
by server1.arterytc1.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1Ecc4L-yJ-FA
for [EMAIL PROTECTED];
1999 Chevy Malibu. About one time out of every four that you try to
start it, it fails to start and the THEFT SYSTEM light in the instrument
cluster starts blinking. The only solution is to wait about ten minutes
for the anti-theft system to reset. After that it starts right up every
time.
In a message dated 11/15/2005 8:31:32 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Two problems with the SD re: idle:
1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but worse
when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in reverse (or turn on
I brought my '91 300D 2.5 74k miles in to the dealer to diagnose a slight
clunking sound in the front end over uneven pavement. They say the noise is
the control arm bushings, which sounds reasonable, but they say that they
have to change the ball joints, that it is all one piece. Total
Has there been a Mercedes Driver Rapture and I'm the only one left behind?
I don't remember reading about this in Revelations!
Butthink of all the parts I can glean..
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Nov 17 14:48:30 2005
Received: from
Yea, be sure you post them to the list. We got to see this!!!
Gabriel S. wrote:
Bought it, and this is the email I got back (i hinted that it was alright if
it was a practical joke):
Dear Gabriel: Thankyou for the quick payment it's not a pratical joke, I
have had this on in the past and it
Marshall,
The battery is an Interstate MPT-93, which appears to be a sealed unit.
There are two panels on top that might be access to add water, but they are
flush with the top of the battery, which leads me to believe that they are
not intended to be removed.
On 11/15/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL
If there had been an actual Rapture, Banned would still be online.
Therefore, that wasn't the cause.
On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has there been a Mercedes Driver Rapture and I'm the only one left behind?
I don't remember reading about this in Revelations!
Butthink
Guess you got my mail then huh?? Cool deal GabrielThank you.Mike
- Original Message -
From: Gabriel S. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] wtf?
Ok, so who wants to buy this and see whats
Sounds like you need to invest a couple hundred $ in some used parts (PS
pump and brake caliper, or a rebuild kit) and a vac pump rebuild kit,
and a weekend of wrenching, and you would have an OK car. The windows
are easy to open up and clean/lube, as are the switches.
This is all stuff that
I drove my turbodiesel vanagon from Chicago to Scranton, PA with no
alternator, even using the wipers and lights the last two hours.
Still had enough juice to roll start the next morning.
Dan
Still it appears you can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty
electrical system.
John
--
My neighbor had a C wagon, new maybe 3-4 yr ago, that was in the shop
constantly for electrical/electronics problems, some guy did her a favor
by hitting it hard (I don't think she even paid him for his trouble),
she got a new one maybe 2 yr ago and it has been reasonably OK as far as
I know.
Smith, Todd wrote:
Hello,
I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert
advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month
ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily
driver and as a suitable
no
Christopher McCann wrote:
anyone there?
Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
Voltage regulator, bad. Did not charge the battery. By observing the
issues the few days before, this
happened over a few days and that morning glowing, heaters etc
managed to suck the last amps out
of the battery.
PS funny thing is that last week when I was diagnosing my climate
controls
you failed
frederick w moir wrote:
Testicle? Testicle?
___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
you also failed
Vernon Ritchey wrote:
Scott Ritchey, Kittrell, NC
1982 300 SD 225K miles
1979 300 TD 355K miles
___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery
you failed as well.
Craig McCluskey wrote:
You know the drill ...
---
Craig McCluskey
Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 222 kmi
Past: 1964 190Dc
1972 220D/8
1972 220/8
1987 190E/2.3
/\
\ / ASCII RIBBON
In a message dated 11/17/2005 7:58:04 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
1999 Chevy Malibu. About one time out of every four that you try to
start it, it fails to start and the THEFT SYSTEM light in the instrument
cluster starts blinking. The only solution is to
1. Idle speed is not too low - just now adjusted a bit high (to address this
problem)...prolly around 800.
2. what are other symptoms of late injection timing...don't you tend to get
smoke? I never have smoke - ever.
3. Timing chain is brand new
4. rack positioner stop bolt - is that the
Tom,
Have the new primer pump. Will check rubber down stream of it.
Thanks,
Chris
tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote:
Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some GIZMO
that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse
Hello Rich,
Thank you for your response. I really don't think that the car is in
unreasonable condition but I had purchased it with the understanding that it
was a daily driver since I was in the process of getting rid of my gas car.
Unfortunately, the time and money for parts is at a
Thanks for the research. Sounds like all the suggestions thus far were
repeated there. Obviously not the first time this problem has been presented
to the list.
Chris
redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Number 2 issue sounds like loping at idle.
Both are fuel
delivery/timing issues.
http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
You can get a butt-load of parts in the back of that.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 9:53 AM
Hello Kaleb,
Thank you for your response. I agree that plumbing the vacuum lines would be
make a big difference. Are the door lock elements in the door itself or under
the hood?
Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements.
Cruise Control works but will not hold
Just did this a couple of months ago.
1. Remove old.
2. Install new, being careful to use washer(s) AND being careful to seat the
hook end of the lever.
3. Hook up a MityVac to the shutoff valve and pump.
4. If the shutoff valve doesn't fall off, reinstall screws. If it does fall
off, return
I need a chicken
Thanks Don.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement
Just did this
If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go.
On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I need a chicken
Thanks Don.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: LT Don
1977 300D Have an accelortor pedal or linkgage that is getting stuck in high
fire. Will trouble shoot soon . Any suggestions besides the toe flick to
release it? Cheers Tom Scordato
LT Don reassured me:
If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go.
So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum
pump and the shut off valve, correct?
If I put the Mity Vac
Is your car shutting off as it should?
On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
LT Don reassured me:
If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go.
So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into
No...it almost does...but not quite.
Cruise works well, HVAC is squirrely but it's always squirrely, no oil in
the line from the vac pump to the air cleaner housing.
Brakes feel correct.
BR
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL
Oil (brake fluid) can get in through the vacuum brake booster
-Original Message-
From: Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 17, 2005 12:28 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement
LT Don reassured me:
If you can tug on the valve
I had that same problem, the linkages on the lower side of the engine,
below the air cleaner, connects from the throttle to the tranny (I
forget what it is called) runs horizontally aft, came loose and was
hanging full on (fun ride home that evening!). Contorted myself and
reattached and
Fine Corinthian wood grain interior too!
--R
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
That's not quite right. You probably have 50-60 hours of life at 1 amp.
When the battery gets much over 50% discharged, it probably won't have
enough juice to run the starter, and the lights will be noticeably dim.
The radio will probably run a lot longer, but not much else.
Ron Dwelle
On
John Peterson wrote:
I brought my '91 300D 2.5 74k miles in to the dealer to diagnose a slight
clunking sound in the front end over uneven pavement. They say the noise is
the control arm bushings, which sounds reasonable, but they say that they
have to change the ball joints, that it is all
I think the accel part is a quick easy cheap fix -- the other guys have
the adjustments for the ALDA thing. If you have a leak in a vac line
you can just plug it, see if the shutoff and brakes then work OK, if not
the vac pump rebuild is not too expensive and fairly easy. The PS pump
-- see
Kaleb,
Siren still work
Chuck
On Nov 17, 2005, at 10:30 AM, Donald Snook wrote:
Kaleb Wrote:
check out my new ride
http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
I'll give you $500.
Donald H. Snook
McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn Herrington, P.A.
300 West Douglas
P.O. Box 207
kleb, i h8 u.
seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some point
that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success
On 11/17/05, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb Wrote:
check out my new ride
http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
I'll
Fred Johnson wrote:
Issue solved!!!
First time I've heard on this or any MB list, it was
the actuator!!
Haven't been able to take it apart but am guessing
that a solenoid or something along those lines is
going bad.
Replaced the amplifier with a known good amplifier and
had the same issue.
Christopher McCann wrote:
1. Rack damper bolt in too far - possible. As I first noticed this probl=
em this summer when I had the old bolt replaced with the new style. This s=
eems very likely.
=
2. Rack damper bolt out too far - well, this problem, (the revving idle=
) is new.
=
IIRC, it's not a GM diesel Maybe International?
My '86 Ford F250 has a 6.9 International Diesel.
Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Nov 17, 2005, at 11:03 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:
kleb, i h8 u.
seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some
point
that GM converted gas
That is correct, but I was talking theory, and with a relatively small
current drain, as in running a diesel down the road with lights and all
un-necessary electric consumers off.
Hitting the starter changes the underlying assumptions. In practice, if
you have 100 Amp hours, you might only
I hate to say this...but that's what I paid for my '82 300CD with a supposedly
bad transmission. $60 for M1 ATF and filter kit and she's as good as new.
Kaleb, how do you replace the sway bar links?
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 17, 2005 10:21
--
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___
For new parts see official list sponsor
The shutoff valve is not at fault!
What does the yellow line go to? I plugged off the yellow vacuum line, as a
manner of troubleshooting, and now everything works wicked good. Is it it
doors?
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, Az
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL
LT Don wrote:
Marshall,
The battery is an Interstate MPT-93, which appears to be a sealed unit.
There are two panels on top that might be access to add water, but they are
flush with the top of the battery, which leads me to believe that they are
not intended to be removed.
You need to open
Hi Bob -
Here's a online location with schematics of the Vacuum system -
http://www.peterschmid.com/
Hopefully you have a Mighty Vac to assist the troubleshooting --?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results
Kaleb,
Looks like it could be decent find.
However, that red velour interior is more akin to a house of ill repute than
it is to a truck. Of course, that was the style back then.
:)
It could probably tow your entire collection of Benzes... all at once. :)
Enjoy.
the guy i gladly bought fuel from at 4.50 a gallon didn't make the list.
On 11/16/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://wsbradio.com/news/111505gaslist.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
'Til it's out of fuel.
Wilton
Also note:
Least Reliable:
SPORTY CARS/
CONVERTIBLES/COUPES: Volkswagen New Beetle Convertible, Mercedes-Benz
SL, Mercedes-Benz CLK, Ford Mustang (V6)*, Chevrolet Corvett
WAGONS: Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Volkswagen Passat (V6) (2005), Volvo V50*
Yet none of the M-B SUVs make the best or worst
OK Don wrote:
http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023544src=LP%20Passenger
Least reliable:
SEDANS: Jaguar S-Type, Lincoln LS, Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Saab 9-3,
Mercedes-Benz S-Class, BMW 5-Series (V8), Audi A8, Chrysler 300 (V8)*,
BMW 7 series
I've never been entirely sure
Unless it is really dark out - that may limit how far one gets.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of wilton strickland
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with
Of course the sad thing here is a huge discussion of battery charging/
voltage.
And last week when I was doing diagnostics on my climate controls
system, and looking at the
voltmeter I'm thinking *gee that voltage seems low if the car is
sitting here idling and charging (not) the battery
Christopher McCann wrote:
The rhythmic revving ONLY happens in PARK and NEUTRAL. NEVER in DRIVE, REVERSE, 3 or 2...even when at a dead stop.
Almost surely suggests that at least ONE motor or transmission mount is
NOT doing it's job (if they are all the same age, they may all may be
Even the old-fangled diesels with distributer-type injection pumps (VW
/ Cummins) would eventually fall victim to a lack of sufficient
electrons, due to their electro-mechanical shutoff solenoids.
On 11/17/05, Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Thu, Nov 17, 2005 at 01:50:20PM -0500, wilton
Smith, Todd wrote:
I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on
mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what
that is?
Look for a little square metal device on the injector pump. It will
have a thin hose connected to it, via a
Bumper sticker: IN THE EVENT OF RAPTURE, CAN I HAVE YOUR CAR?
Thanks Jim, I am replacing cap today. We'll see what happens.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 1:27 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help
In a message dated 11/15/2005
If you turn everything hvac/electrical off and you do not need any lights or
radio, a fairly long time...
- Original Message -
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] How far can you
I assume, you're actually calculating your mileage based on filling up the
tank and doing the math of miles driven to gallons of gas used and averaging
your mileage over several tanks or more in a row?
If you're simply going by the low fuel light, my first thought would be if
your low fuel light
andrew strasfogel wrote:
When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100 miles
LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19 mpg.
I am beginning to feel ashamed that my
electrolyte level goes down on discharge and back up when fully charged. A
constant low level can also warp the plates in the battery. NAPA sells a
real neat automatic 20 amp charger, leave it on and it will not boil the
battery dry, however you need at least 4 volts in the battery for it to
work.
John M McIntosh wrote:
PS well I might have stopped once I started to enter the city it was
unclear how bright (not) the brake lights were. Still it appears you
can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty electrical system.
I've driven from Pittsburgh to Washington DC (and back ~250 mi
since the timing chain is new install, could it have jumped a tooth on
the IP sprocket?
I think it may be accumulated off fuel. this is not the AKP, I assume.
cold weather making it not flow as it wants to, so the engine is
searching for proper idle
On Thursday, November 17, 2005, at
Bet that will get attention when you go to drag home new benz donors.
Congrats on a cool sweet ride.
On Thursday, November 17, 2005, at 08:53 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
--
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL -
John,
The dealer is either lazy or mis-informed:
You can buy the bushings separately, for something like $100 per side
(list price). Labor to install shouldn't be more than a couple hours
per side, plus alignment. I have a hard time seeing this job over
$500-$600, even at the dealership. They
Timing chain is brand new.
Damper bolt is new and the new style. Also, I don't have any lope (know what
that is...that's why I got the new bolt)...this is a rhythmic revving...like
pushing the accelerator ever so slightly - no engine loping at all. It happens
in PARK, NEUTRAL and DRIVE
Gotta ask - was that a $500'er?
Dave W
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: [MBZ] check out my new ride
If the IP were WAY out of calibration what else might I notice...poor fuel
economy...like 23mpg hwy? 19mpg city/hwy?
Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote:
Two problems with the SD re: idle:
1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room
Someone told me it was because they were using crappier gas at
the stations.
I have been secretely suspecting this myself since Katrina...
Chris
Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I assume, you're actually calculating
your mileage based on filling up the
tank and doing the math of
chain jumping a tooth - well, don't know, but i really doubt it as the chain
was new in June and the rhythmic revving (not loping) started about 1 month
ago.
No, not the AKP-Wagen, this is the SD. Bad fuel - well, this IS possible.
THe rhythmic revving thing started after the car was
Bob Rentfro wrote:
LT Don reassured me:
If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go.
So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum
pump and the shut off valve, correct?
If
David Brodbeck wrote:
The most accurate way to calculate fuel economy is as follows:
- Fill the tank until the pump shuts off.
- Drive.
- Refill the tank, preferably from the same pump, since the shutoff
point varies from pump to pump.
I'd run it off a small tank under the hood, even a
Bad vacuum pod on one of the door locks, or the vac hose is unhooked
somewhere. I had a 123 where the yellow line came off the rubber connector
for no apparent reason.
At 02:35 PM 11/17/2005, you wrote:
I seem to remember that the yellow line goes to the door locks.
On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro
andrew strasfogel wrote:
My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak of,
and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in 2 at
Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might
Everything works well with the yellow line disconnectedexcept for, of
course, the door locks, fuel filler flap, and the trunk lock. At some point
I suppose I'll tear into the doors and start systematically replacing the
almost 30 year old lines and pods and switches.
I still must address
Marshall Booth wrote:
Tire pressure below the top
end of the Mercedes recommendations can reduce fuel economy by 10-15%.
Improperly adjusted valves can reduce it a little.
I'm thinking that if he had a brake hose acting like a one-way valve
it would have killed the pads a few times in the last
Herr Doktor Booth schooled us as follows:
Your engine is NOT running rich. With diesels there really is NO such
thing (except at wide open throttle under full load - and then there
IS smoke). More fuel simply translates into the engine running faster -
UNTIL you use up all the air and then
David Brodbeck wrote:
Nick Gough wrote:
Have you checked the trunk seal itself? The trunk lid could be out of
alignment and allowing water to get in through the gap. BTDT.
That's on my list, too. Any good tricks for checking it? I was
thinking of smearing lipstick on the seal, closing
Christopher McCann wrote:
Timing chain is brand new.
Damper bolt is new and the new style. Also, I don't have any lope (know what that is...that's why I got the new bolt)...this is a rhythmic revving...like pushing the accelerator ever so slightly - no engine loping at all. It happens in
redghost wrote:
since the timing chain is new install, could it have jumped a tooth on
the IP sprocket?
I think it may be accumulated off fuel. this is not the AKP, I assume.
cold weather making it not flow as it wants to, so the engine is
searching for proper idle
NO CHANCE! A tooth
OK guys, it's time to start putting more fuel INTO Andrew's tank every
few nights!
HAHAHAHA, I don't care who you are, that right there is funny!
--R
andrew strasfogel wrote:
My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. It runs fine,
Brilliant! and so simple, even I can do it! Will do if not cured when I pick
the SD back up from the Indy who is re-re-adjusting the idle. Nifty little
tool for that he has...much simpler on a W124 though.
Thanks,
Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann
andrew strasfogel wrote:
My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years.
Different fuel supplies WILL result in differences as great as 20% in
fuel economy. My 190D 2.5 turbo will deliver 33-36 mpg on BP/Amoco fuel,
while MOST other brands
crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my pet theories as to why my
mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD). Not cold enough in the last
couple months for THAT (coldness) to have effected it.
Also, the TD (haven't had it long enough to really get a feel for it), does
not
Another thought: VDO odometers have a tendency to develop cracks in the
gears that make them stick or slip at certain points in the rotation.
(I had one in a VW that would stick briefly every time three tenths came
around, for example.) This isn't always very noticeable if you aren't
also makes it harder to collect ALL 5 high mileage awards - one of my life
goals.
Chris
David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Another thought: VDO odometers have
a tendency to develop cracks in the
gears that make them stick or slip at certain points in the rotation.
(I had one in a
Thanks Bob (and Marshall),
Very well explained. I missed it the 1st time Dokter Booth instructed us
;-)
Now, how does the fuel injection timing affect fuel economy performance -
with the kind of background provided below.
Sorry if this has been explained in the past - my memory is
Bob,
I've had a golf tee in the line for several months Not anxious to
skin the doors to chase down the leak. One of those things on the
someday list. The trunk lock will remain locked and require a key
be used all the time if your car acts the same as mine.
Take care,
Chuck
Smith, Todd wrote:
Hello Kaleb,
Thank you for your response. I agree that plumbing the vacuum lines would be
make a big difference. Are the door lock elements in the door itself or under
the hood?
The lock elements are in each door. Really need to get the factory
manual or CD and
Just unscrew then from the sway bar and the control arm
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I hate to say this...but that's what I paid for my '82 300CD with a supposedly
bad transmission. $60 for M1 ATF and filter kit and she's as good as new.
Kaleb, how do you replace the sway bar links?
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