hue wong wrote:
Hi all!
Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks
like it's exactly 5 degrees off.
(if the mesurement is: the mark on the cam guide
collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3' oclock
are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with the
top post/nub/zero
On a stock wheel, yes. 15x6.5 ET45 for the early 15-hole wheels, and the
same or maybe 15x7 for the later 8-holers. ET37 is not a drastic change,
just puts the centerline of the wheel 8 mm farther out. Together with wider
tires than stock this means the edge of the tire is at most an inch or so
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On a stock wheel, yes. 15x6.5 ET45 for the early 15-hole wheels, and the
same or maybe 15x7 for the later 8-holers. ET37 is not a drastic change,
just puts the centerline of the wheel 8 mm farther out. Together with wider
tires than stock this means the edge of the
Was somebody looking for a 123 console? I was at the U-Pull and
one of the cars there had one that doesn't appear to have been
buggered up. (Yet.) I can get it and ship it for a modest fee.
(Cost + $10, that should cover the fuel to go back!)
-- Jim
Soy oil is $2.88/gal at Sam's, Goldsboro, NC; #2 is $2.56
Wilton
Glad I took Marshall's advice and replicated the chain stretch measurement
on my '95 E300D with the OM 606.910 engine. My first measurement on
Saturday was 4 deg.
The subsequent measurements, today, were 3 deg, 2 deg and 2.5 deg. Think
I'll keep this chain and check it again in 30 or 50k miles.
If I use it, Nature will heat it sufficiently.
'Doubt if it'll be cold enough here in eastern NC to jell it til Dec or so.
Wilton
I belive it is the 61X.xx engine It's a 300t '82 the
Odo reads 129k (but I suspect it might have been
turned at the shady car lot I bought it from...)
I decided to set the vavles and button her up and do
the work after another few thousand miles or so (the
end of summer.) Teh sprocket looks
we have a biodiesel list for this stuff you know.
Bill Gallagher wrote:
Any one have knowledge or experience with making BioDiesel.
http://www.biodieselsolutions.com/home/home.asp
Give you all the Equipment and like . reminds me of making your own
wine..TIA
Bill
1981 300 TD
Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim.
When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot and dry to
URL Please
Bill
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
we have a biodiesel list for this stuff you know.
Bill Gallagher wrote:
Any one have knowledge or experience with making BioDiesel.
http://www.biodieselsolutions.com/home/home.asp
Give you all the Equipment and like . reminds me of
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Bill
Plug the little holes:
Buy some professional exposy paint and apply thin coats until holes
are filled . make sure surface is bare metal..
Bill
1981 300 TD
redghost wrote:
Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim.
When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ4628649766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D,
Yeh, right - looks like a decent front clip donor for a more worthy
Mercedes.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 10:23 PM
To: Banned List;
See, what makes it especially Euro is the Mercedes-Benz emblem on the
hood.
Odo and speedo are in miles, there's no radio, and somehow the steering
wheel is completely faded and the rest of the vinyl is shiny black ...
curious.
Maybe if he paid me $19.81, I'd take it from him.
On 4/4/06, Tom
that even looks like real leather. pity it's so far away.
On 4/4/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-Mercedes-220d-220-D-Diesel-runs-great-New-Mex-car_W0QQitemZ4627953055QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E-Z-FIX-LOW-MILE-EURO-
ROADSTER_W0QQitemZ4628649766QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
What a dreamer! Looks like an excellent start on a 107 pickup
truck, though.
-- Jim
On 4/4/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
See, what makes it especially Euro is the Mercedes-Benz emblem on the
hood.
Odo and speedo are in miles, there's no radio, and somehow the steering
wheel is completely faded and the rest of the vinyl is shiny black ...
curious.
No, that part
Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim.
Sorry, dude!
When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot
Let's see - how would we best describe it - but not scare anyone off?
How about: Classic Mercedes SL with small dent in rear - easily fixable!
OR -
Imported European Mercedes Sports Car - custom body work! A real eye
catcher! You'll be the envy of the crowd at the Dairy Queen! OR -
Are you kidding! You haven't been cold until you have been duck hunting
on Lake Mattamuskeet in winter.
Tom Potter (Ex Tarheel, if there is such a thing)
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wilton strickland
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 8:34
How about Can be converted into a custom, short bed pickup
truck
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:16 AM
To: Mercedes
Yep, if the chain breaks, it *will* destroy the engine. The pistons will
hit the valves and both will suffer and you'll need a valve job and probably
some new pistons - and depending on how hard they hit, the head may crack
and the rods may bend. But as Marshall suggested, you've probably got
Johnny B. said:
Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it
or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight?
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator
hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I
You can have the radiator cleaned of deposits. This is often done. Any
good radiator shop should be able to do it. I think I paid about $50 to
have mine cleaned a few years ago.
The old standby cooling system cleaner from years ago was DuPont No. 7.
It would really REALLY clean the system. God
On Apr 5, 2006, at 9:14 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Johnny B. said:
Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it
or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts
tight?
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the
radiator
compare our prices with amazon.com. buyMBparts best prices on books! :)
On 4/4/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Alex wrote:Ritter book and the Haynes manual
(published only in England, but easily available on the left side of the
pond from amazon.co.uk) are nice supplements to
I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned
up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some
places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with,
to keep from making it worse? I know about the clean wheels but
POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they have a
variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob the paint on if
the holes are really tiny and the structure of the metal is not compromised or
use it with some fiberglass matte to build up strength. They
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator
hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is
a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all
of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the
radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I
think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for
getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ?
What about using a
Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones. The last 2
choices are about the same price. Personally I prefer steel wheels and
hubcaps.
At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned
up well, but the front ones
Wow, that's really tempting. How hard to take my 300TD drive train and fit
it to that 92 chassis? Might have to call on it for the int/ext colors.
It's about 25 minutes from my sister's place in Braintree..
...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
Frederick Moir said:
Hi, All.
Ad reads:- 1992 Mercedes
When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still
had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the
wheels still looked pristine. The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and
not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust. Maybe
If you pick that car up, I would be interested in the rear bumper off it.
Dave W
Wow, that's really tempting. How hard to take my 300TD drive train and fit
it to that 92 chassis? Might have to call on it for the int/ext colors.
It's about 25 minutes from my sister's place in Braintree..
we've got paint.
On 4/5/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones. The last 2
choices are about the same price. Personally I prefer steel wheels and
hubcaps.
At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
I have been negligent in washing.my
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 15:26:33 -0600
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] VIN JF1SG65636G734626
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Can someone do a Carfax on this VIN?
Thank you,
Jim Keefe
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi
---Original Message---
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still
had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the
wheels still looked pristine. The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?)
No affiliation, etc:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4628199906
I wonder which is correct on the mileage... 900,024 or 9,000,024?
Anyway - no photos on the auction listing, but here's some of the
text. Located in Ocean Springs, MS.
1992 Mercedes Benz 300-D Turbo,
oops. Hope Jim is reading this thread, so he can remove them from his car.
On 4/5/06, jlervine [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
---Original Message---
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they
still
had the factory
Yeah, but you guys should start selling the British Haynes book too! No 124
owner's library is complete without all three! Besides, it's fun to
translate spanner into wrench, boot into trunk, paraffin into
kerosene, etc. ad infinitum, in your head as you read. ;)
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D
I have them on my 83 300D and have not had any problems. They keep my
nice new-looking wheels super clean. I know they are there and if there
was any sort of downside I'd noticed, I'd remove them.
So far so good. (except for the hole in the block)
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
83 300D
If you pick that car up I'd like the taillights!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
I've considered picking it up just to have parts from. I sort of have a
place to store it. If it was really nice and complete inside, it would
probably mean I'd part out the 87 instead. All of this is probably just
dreaming as the wife has a long list of things that would be in front of
any such
Jeff wrote:I have them on my 83 300D and have not had any problems
I'm with Jeff on this - even if MB has issued a warning. The steel wheels
some of our cars came with restrict airflow even more than Kleenwheels do -
the steel wheels have 3 very thin slots maybe 1/8x4 around the outside of
Dave wrote:no photos on the auction listing
Looks like some photos were added this morning - Man! Look at all those
spare parts on the hoof!
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Tom, you can bet I've been cold, but usually in Nebraska, Michigan UP or
Greenland; had frostbite in MI and Grnlnd. When it's cold enough to jell
veggie in NC, I don't use it.
Wilton
http://www.ehowa.com/showpicture.shtml?image=burningmercedes.jpg
this is why we need to keep the engine clean and check for leaks. Or
just normal behaviour for the new mercedes
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel
Tom Hargrave wrote:
How about Can be converted into a custom, short bed pickup
truck
That would rule. ;)
Found on [EMAIL PROTECTED] job Rick.
Luther
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 14:30:39 -0500
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: car issues???
I am a member of an email list dedicated to Mercedes diesels. You can get all
the help you need here...
I'm with both Jeff and Larry..
I've had Kleen Wheels on my '80 300SD for about 200,000 miles with no
adverse consequences. They most certainly have reduced brake dust
buildup on the bundtcake wheels. In order to increase inward air
flow, I spread the vents in the KW's a
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
attach
the ends
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like manner. I managed to do it
without the special tool but the engine was completely disassembled during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a vise where I could work on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in place. I tried to
It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and
riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen
hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum,
thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I
guess
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the
tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming
chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying
the tool..
If, it's like an old bike chain, no problem, but it
looks like this big double chain may be a bit more and
need the tool?
Hey, you could build a small gooseneck trailer out of a 126 and pull it
with the SL pickup!
At 01:03 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Tom Hargrave wrote:
How about Can be converted into a custom, short bed pickup
truck
That would rule. ;)
___
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the
tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming
chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying
the tool..
Rent or borrow the tool, or peen it over with a hammer.
(With another hammer behind it as an anvil.) I also have
riveted
Thanks Larry,
It might be risky trying to brad the stud with the chain in the car and
someone holding a buck bar, so it's probably best to rent the tool.
Performance Products catalog lists the tools sale price at $195.00 but I
couldn't find their rental price. Does Rusty rent the tool?
Dropped by the U-Pull yesterday, and found three better door checks (the
one on the car I already replaced is great, the other three are only
so-so), an intact piece of wind lace for the driver's door, and a
passenger-side under-dash panel that has the firewall-side black part.
(This is a later
Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening too.
Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. I'll bet you were
making a bowl out of a flat sheet of aluminum in Jr. High shop, weren't you?
(grin)
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth
Not that this is a one-up-manship contest, but I had a buddy that was
working security at a construction site in the winter in Yellowknife, NWT.
One night whilst making his rounds he found that if he spit, it would
freeze solid before it hit the ground! Now THAT'S COLD!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87
Kinda like when you have to worry about the oil in your differential
freezing solid so that it physically won't move even with the engine's
power, or if you shut the door too hard your paint falls off. (:
Those are just anecdotes I've heard from people.
Personally, the coldest I've done is
Aluminum trays of various forms.
I forgot to mention the BIG (16-24 oz) hammer behind the link as an anvil,
as Jim mentioned. Use a 6-8 oz ball peen.
Yeah, if you know the principle of cold riveting is lots of blows with a
fairly light hammer, then you can do it with no problem. I have no
I will rent the tool for $30. You pay shipping both ways, and pay a
deposit of $ 160. Total payment up front from you $ 200, money order.
I return a money order for $ 160 when you return the tool in good
shape.
Richard
--- hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So, Look slike I would do this if
Kaleb posted this car
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-4-Dr-300D-Tu-NO-RESERVE-1987-MERCEDES-BENZ-300D-T_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6330QQitemZ4627171297QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
originally. Saw it today- this is a gen-u-ine POS that has been run down
hard. Those pictures
You can rent it from:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.html
No need to buy it. And there are probably other places to rent it from. At
one time I believe there was a list member who loaned it out.
Once you get comfortable with the diesel you'll love it like we do - it's an
Had to be a bowl or an ashtray! ;-) I remember those days too.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
I got my '67 200D about 1972 and sold it about 1987. The speedo was broken
when I got it, but it probably had over 400,000 miles on it when it was
sold. I still miss the 33 mpg it got driving around town.
Do you use the flat or the round end of the BIG hammer as a buck bar? The
round end
I did the riveting in the car on a 603. it should be even easier on a
616/617. There is also a punch tool made for peening rivets that has a
hole the size of the rivet and a dimple to peen the rivet. I would bet
that Motion Industries or a similar industrial drive supplier can sell one
to
hue wong wrote:
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the
tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming
chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying
the tool..
You can rent the tool from many suppliers that sell the chain. You can
also peen the chain link with a
the flat end
It is there to absorb the energy of the taps that is not translated into
moving the steel in the rivet (link pin) so that energy does not distort
the sprocket or cam assembly.
110s were/are great cars. Between the noise, the fins and the big ol
grille, they were always
It looks like Loren has convinced me I can do it with a ball peen hammer.
Thanks for the reference to Mercedesshop. It's good to know tools can be
rented someplace besides Performance Products.
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi Gerry,
I agree - it would
Do you rent any other tools, Richard? Front spring compressors, for
example?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Richard Hattaway [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I will rent the tool for $30. You pay shipping both ways, and pay a
deposit of $ 160. Total payment up front from you $ 200, money
The beauty of living in Toronto is that we have a huge heat source right
at the south end of the city so even though we're farther north, we're
almost always warmer than NYC 500 miles south!
Buffalo on the other hand, is on the wrong side of the lake and gets 10
times the snow and cold that
Probably have to buy the chain first, measure the diameter of the rivet, and
then order the punch tool; wouldn't I?
GerryA
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I did the riveting in the car on a 603. it should be even easier on a
616/617. There is also a punch
Mine was white. My wife wouldn't drive it when I brought it home; said it
looked like an ugly ambulance. I finally persuaded her to drive it around
the block. She wouldn't give it back and wouldn't drive anything but MBs
the rest of her life.
I still have her '83 240D (showroom condition)
one made for a 1/8 inch rivet would do. The one I have used is for 3/16
rivets, but it is too big for the timing chains. I like them because the
hole is used to make sure the links are tight before you peen the rivet.
At 04:27 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Probably have to buy the chain first,
have it. It is ok
On Sunday, April 2, 2006, at 10:15 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
While getting a order ready to place with Rusty I came across the
Bentley
Handbook with this description: Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide,
maintenance handbook
My 200D is black My wife would never drive it. She drove the Hawaiian
200D. She did like the 240D, and liked her 230TE better and now likes her
300TD very much. She does not want anything but an MB either now.
At 04:40 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
Mine was white. My wife wouldn't drive it
What do you mean by huge heat source? Are you referring to the hot air that
comes out of Queen's Park?
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jeff Zedic
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 4:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re:
81 matches
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