Almost over,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/023108826_W0QQitemZ4627821012QQcategoryZ6328QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Apr 09 00:30:53 2006
Received: from pop-tawny.atl.sa.earthlink.net ([207.69.195.67])
by
On Apr 8, 2006, at 4:21 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:
Any suggestions on the turbo oil?
It is most likely coming from the breather. What's the air filter
looking like?
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Get yourself a bottle of Seafom gas additive, change the oil to Mobil 1 and get
a new NGK sparkplug.
Drain the old gas out, even though it might not be real old its not gonna be
real good. Put in fresh gas and an ounce of Seafoam. Crank it over a couple
times with no plug, put the new plug in
On Sat, 8 Apr 2006 19:15:20 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Also, as I don't seem to be able to locate an owners manual for it, I am
wondering how much a 4000kw unit will power.
I presume you meant 4 kW (4000 W), not 4000kw (= 4,000,000 W).
It will be able to power 4000 W
Peter Frederick wrote:
Backfire is probably not exhaust failure related, though.
Maybe, maybe not. I've found a lot of cars will backfire when you lift
off the throttle, if the exhaust is open. It seems that they let a
little unburned fuel into the exhaust under that condition, and if it
hits
Maybe. There is a difference between the rumble of open air combustion
and a real explosion (backfire) in the exhaust. You will get some
rattle, but not much -- the fuel should be completely shut off on
closed throttle above 1500 rpm and burnable (no backfire) below that.
The bits of metal,
the filter element is dry, but there is some liquid oil down in the very
bottom of the filter basin. Should I swap filter/breather parts from the
Blue Bomber and try that?
On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 19:37:48 -0500, John Berryman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Apr 8, 2006, at 4:21 PM, Luther
Ah, I should mention I've a weakness for NGK plugs at the moment.
Iridium ones if I can find them. Mind the 500SEL still has the
original bosch ones in it since I've read mixed reports on putting
platinum or iridium plugs in benzes were that was not the OEM
choices. Likely I should consider
Thanks John and all who gave me a good intro to generator ownership. I have
had good experience with NGK's also. The generator is one item I hope not
to need, but if needed having it start easily will make a major difference -
especially using a well. PO said that it was serviced at a local
2. What would be the suggested weight oil to use [8hp Briggs engine]?
Don't they always recommend 30W non-detergent oil for all these
splash-oiled small motors? (Doesn't stop me from putting Delo
in anyway...)
-- Jim
On Apr 8, 2006, at 11:25 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:
Maybe, maybe not. I've found a lot of cars will backfire when you
lift
off the throttle, if the exhaust is open. It seems that they let a
little unburned fuel into the exhaust under that condition, and if it
hits the oxygen in the air
On Apr 8, 2006, at 11:50 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:
the filter element is dry, but there is some liquid oil down in the
very
bottom of the filter basin. Should I swap filter/breather parts
from the
Blue Bomber and try that?
Did you epoxy the valve cover yet? And more importantly the oil
On Apr 9, 2006, at 6:42 AM, BillR wrote:
Most helpful to have so many willing to offer advice. Anyone
headed through
Jax please stop by.
BillR
904-707-0404
Jacksonville FL
I'll most likely be passing through but it will be during hurricane
season. Straight SAE-30 oil should be what
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2. What would be the suggested weight oil to use [8hp Briggs engine]?
Don't they always recommend 30W non-detergent oil for all these
splash-oiled small motors? (Doesn't stop me from putting Delo
in anyway...)
-- Jim
On Apr 9, 2006, at 10:17 AM, archer wrote:
What would be the detergent oil equivalent? XX-W-30?
GerryA
SAE-30 detergent. It is becoming more and more difficult to find non-
detergent oil. Detergent when referring to oil means it keeps
particles in suspension so they can be filtered.
John Berryman wrote:
On Apr 9, 2006, at 10:17 AM, archer wrote:
What would be the detergent oil equivalent? XX-W-30?
GerryA
SAE-30 detergent. It is becoming more and more difficult to find non-
detergent oil.
Yep, even the little bottles of BriggsStratton oil are detergent
You have a vacuum leak, could be anywhere, you will have to just
troubleshoot the system and check for leaks.
Dan Schriber wrote:
I have just purchased a 1982 300 CDT. When I shut the car off at the key it
runs on and on. Lately it will shut off when I open the driver's door
(coincidence or
The turbo usually lasts the life of the car unless something gets sucked
into it. You probably have a blocked fuel enrichment line or something.
Sunil Hari wrote:
I really like the 124 as a driving machine, but maintenance on it is harder
b/c the spaces are tighter. Also, the 124 really
It would help to know the year make and model of the car we are talking
about.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
How much fluid does it take to go from the bottom mark on the dipstick to
the top (full) mark?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84
you will probably have to remove the fan/clutch at the very least.
Tony wrote:
I have a 1991 190e 2.6. The airpump seized
(conveniently???) as I drifted into my driveway. I
have another one but am trying to find a way to loosen
the tensioner (the centered, fulcrum) 19mm bolt
without having to
well how much oil is it using now?
Luther Gulseth wrote:
the filter element is dry, but there is some liquid oil down in the very
bottom of the filter basin. Should I swap filter/breather parts from the
Blue Bomber and try that?
On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 19:37:48 -0500, John Berryman
[EMAIL
detergent oil. Detergent when referring to oil means it keeps
particles in suspension so they can be filtered.
Which is not a useful property if there is no filter!
Then having the dirt settle to the bottom of the pan
is more helpful.
-- Jim
Bill,
Why can't I ever find a bargain like that DRAT..
Found a site that has the PDF for you generator.
http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/Homelite_files/Old%20Homelite%20Owners%20Manuals/generators/UT03845_thru_03847_PS03548.pdf
Hopes this helps.
Russ W.
BillR wrote:
Stopped by a garage
Newer Brigg's engines use regular 10W-30 motor oil. Non-detergent is for
older engines.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] generator ??
detergent oil.
Yes, oil can leak from the turbo into the intake, but usually will also
leak into the exhaust -- if so, there will be quite a bit of coke in
there (hard glassy carbon) that is fairly oily, not dry and fluffy.
The other source of oil in the front of the turbo is blowby and/or a
failed oil
Unless you have an ancient engine that has NEVER had detergent oil in
it, I would not use non-detergent oil in anything. Old engines do not
require non-detergent oil, there just wasn't anything else available
then.
Detergent oil will re-suspend huge amounts of sludge if there is any in
I am retired and not far from I95 and I295 - lots of good places to eat if
you are here near to meal time.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 10:22 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re:
Wrong...Detergent oils tend to foam in the crankcase causing it to leak out
of the crankcase breather on the older Brigg's engines. It will work but it
WILL leak. In more worn engines it can build enough crankcase pressure to
blowby the rings causing at least fouled plugs and usually a good
Thanks for the replies - I am pretty sure the car is running as it should,
and the backfire is from the exhaust being open. It is not a loud bang of a
backfire, just kinda a tut-tut-tut kind.
The car ran great with no backfire when she started out around town. Was
coming down a hill and it
Russ great find. I'm printing that out now. I do get lucky once in awhile.
Best find was a Newton - $45 at a sale from a guy who got it as a gift then
quit his traveling job. The box still had the $1,xxx+ sticker on it.
Neither of us really knew what it was and he rather grudgingly accepted it.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
It would help to know the year make and model of the car we are talking
about.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
How much fluid does it take to go from the bottom mark on the dipstick to
the top (full) mark?
The distance between the MAX and MIN marks on 722.0/.1/.3/.4/.5
Dan Schriber wrote:
I have just purchased a 1982 300 CDT. When I shut the car off at the key it
runs on and on. Lately it will shut off when I open the driver's door
(coincidence or design?) or maybe it tires of me pushing the stop button
under the hood. Can anyone direct me to the cause and the
In a message dated 4/9/2006 10:19:04 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Thanks for the replies - I am pretty sure the car is running as it should,
and the backfire is from the exhaust being open. It is not a loud bang of a
backfire, just kinda a tut-tut-tut kind.
Dan,
I have a vacuum troubleshooting guide I can mail you offline if you like.
Regards,
Dan Steadman
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1980 300D
1980 300TD EURO
Dan Schriber wrote:
I have just purchased a 1982 300 CDT. When I shut the car off at the key it
runs on and on. Lately it will shut off when I open
I had holes in the pipes as well, not just the muffler.
Most likely the center muffler is hollow if the rear is bad, it goes
first.
Factory rear muffler is welded on, replacements are usually clamped, so
if you have a welded joint, the mufflers are likely originals.
Peter
I will be listing a brand new, never-been-worn designer wedding dress for a
coworker later this evening. Their daughter's wedding isn't going to happen
after all. The girl hadn't even tried the dress on yet, and it is going to
go up on eBay. Retail on the gown was $963 and it has a $00 reserve. I
I'd run it with some load if possible, but 15 to 20 minutes should be plenty to
get it warm and cook out any condensation.
For oil I'd use 10w30 or 5w40, maybe with a slight lean to 5w40 if you can
find it. I've run 10w30 in several lawnmowers and had excellent results.
-Curt
Any one of the 3 in my signature line. They all have the same
equipment
On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 10:33:06 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
It would help to know the year make and model of the car we are talking
about.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
How much fluid does it take to
That's the kind of information you can ALWAYS trust Marshal to provide.
On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 12:37:37 -0500, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
It would help to know the year make and model of the car we are talking
about.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
How much fluid
If a door/trunk/fuel door lock is suspect, couldn't a person reach over
and unlock the passenger door by itself, then unlock the trunk, then pull
the fuel door lock, as a way to isolate the leaking acuator? This is, if
all doors start locked in that process. Follow my logic, or is it
Valve cover is epoxied, with J.B. (remember that thread?) and the oil
level is almost always between the Min mark and the middle.
What does blow by amount on an engine tell?
Oil spots? We have assigned parking at work, so I get the same spot
everyday. It finally started leaving spots on the
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=8054956307
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Hi, All.
OT question:- I have my daughters 97 Toyo Paseo, ( 1.5L 4 cyl NA ) and it
smokes. When started cold it smokes like a mosquito control truck, no visible
smoke when warm or on the highway. I have replaced the valve stem oil seals,
lapped the valves reset the valve clearances and
What colour smoke?
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
Don't Know, I'm not Roman Catholic.
Fred Moir
Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What colour smoke?
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
___
http://www.striplin.net
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
We need to know specifics dude, you could have a variation or something :)
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Any one of the 3 in my signature line. They all have the same
equipment
On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 10:33:06 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore,
Jeff, and Alles.
It's Oil I tell 'ee, OIL!
Bwahaha!
Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What colour smoke?
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL
Jeff, and Alles.
It's Oil I tell 'ee, OIL!
Bwahaha!
Uh, rings..
What did the cylinders look like with the head off? Maybe she needs an oil
burner (diesel)..
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
On Apr 9, 2006, at 6:24 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:
Or should I use a small amount of lock
tite on the base fittings? Or maybe antiseize on the line
fittings? TIA
all,
Luther
Might as well do bothWhile it easy.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Synthetic oil in it already?
I've got an old White lawnmower thats beat, in an effort to get a couple more
years out of it I put Mobil 1 10w30 in it a couple years ago. Its not like a
new mower but its definately got more oomph and it starts easier than it did.
Big improvement for ~$4 in oil.
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