One of my colleagues brought their 560SL into Lightning only to have it
returned to them with a torn and heavily damaged dash. Lightning called
it unavoidable damage and refused to accept responsibility for the
damage. I have heard good things about Triumph Auto Glass in Lilburn
off Hwy 29 but
To stress the importance of proper coolant, I have seen a number of
cylinder heads with holes eaten into the deck surface requiring
expensive deck welding repair by the machinist. The V8s are prone to
this as are the older inline sixes. (m130, m108, m110, etc) This is
caused by a poor coolant
You're never too young for a wagon. We got our 280te when we were 25.
Still have it and love it. However with gas prices as of late, we're
driving our diesels. Go for it, everyone should have a wagon. ;)
Mathieu
On Apr 28, 2006, at 3:49 PM, Donald Snook wrote:
We have all had much
Joe,
Go to the pick-n-pull, find a car with a console piece like yours and
you will see that there are blanks to fill in the holes not being
used. Please don't ruin a nice bezel. The blanks pop out of the bezel
with a minimum of effort.
Mathieu
On Apr 26, 2006, at 8:29 PM, Joe Knight
yes, it is for the a/c.
mathieu
On Apr 26, 2006, at 12:54 AM, John Ervine wrote:
Craig McCluskey wrote:
Maybe a temperature wheel, like on 240Ds?
Sounds like it to me.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 175+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd
The Euro headlamp height adjuster switch has the same dimensions as the
other switches e.g. antenna, rear defog, rear dome light, etc. The
narrow slot is strictly for the A/C wheel on the Euros with manual
klima.
Mathieu
On Apr 26, 2006, at 11:47 AM, Harry Watkins wrote:
Joe
That may be
107, 116, 124, 126, 201 have the switch like you describe. I don't know
about the later models.
123 has them in the center console.
Mathieu
On Apr 26, 2006, at 3:48 PM, Jeff Zedic wrote:
I thought the headlamp height adjuster wheel was part of the headlamp
switch bezel. The three position
http://dieselgiant.com/replacetimingchain.htm
On Apr 18, 2006, at 6:26 PM, hue wong wrote:
SOmebody posted a link to a real good tutorial on
replacing the timing chainon a 300d...(all I remember
was that it was on a benz site and the poster had shot
the tutorial in his garage...)
I wanted
Use a very long extension with a universal plus the 10mm hex socket to
remove the starter bolts. Ensure the hex heads are free of dirt and
debris with a pick so that you don't round out the head. Pulling the
trans cross-member does simplify things a bit, but is completely
unnecessary. I use a
On Apr 17, 2006, at 4:50 PM, V Layton wrote:
I'd agree unecessary, in fact I haven't HAD to do that yet since I
thought of it! I have done that to access the modulator on the
turbos, it's just s easy to lower it while you work, especially
when one doesn't have a lift! (Yes, I support
Sounds like monkeys have been in there. Ugh! Note: a 3/8 will be too
small and will round out the bolts. Whenever I come across a rounded
out starter bolt I hammer in a 12mm triple-square head and have had
good luck getting them to crack loose. Should this be the case, replace
the bolts.
The '78 and 79' SDs had the fast idle knob. They stopped them on the
'80 model year cars.
Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com
On Apr 14, 2006, at 9:50 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:
For some reason, they stopped with the turbo cars. Later diesels all
have electronic idle control.
Peter
. Keep your wits about you and you will do fine.
Mathieu J. Cama
www.oldworldauto.com
On Apr 12, 2006, at 8:55 PM, hue wong wrote:
well damb!
So what would be your advice if this was tried with
the tensioner in.
I suspect I've done a doosy on this! lord
Trial by fire, will make me
Order a master clip for an m100 car (p/n 0009970598). It will work just
fine. Also, I place many rags in the chain cavity so that if something
should fall, it will land on the rag or fall outside of the motor. This
is critical to do when grinding/breaking the old chain as well as
covering the
Folks,
Today and tomorrow I will be parting a 1977 280se. The engine, trans
and servo are spoken for already. The interior is believed to be Brasil
(lighter than saddle) and is in very nice condition. The seats do need
to be re-stuffed. Body is a rust bucket. Car is a 70k mile car. Let me
I'm with Zeitgeist on this one. Been boycotting WalMart for over two
years now.
On Feb 10, 2006, at 8:28 PM, Zeitgeist wrote:
Try anarcho-libertarian commie pinko, and no, I don't like WalMart for
a variety of reasons.
On 2/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
you must be a
For those that knew him, my father, Peter Heimuller, passed to the
Maker on Friday. He was diagnosed with cancer in May and fought hard to
beat it. In the last two weeks it became apparent that he was going to
lose the fight and was being called home. His passing was calm and
peaceful and
My fiancee, Jennifer, was rear ended in her 240D this morning. She is
OK, the car did its job. Left rear of the car is toasted and there is
frame damage. She was hit by a large Ford work van that went over her
bumper at about 30-35 mph. I'll post a link to pictures as time allows.
Off to
Pictures of the car are at:
http://oldworldauto.com/240RIP/240D_RIP.htm
Body shop estimates $5400 in damages.
OUCH!
Just set up a map for everyone.
Link to it at: http://www.frappr.com/klebmbz
Cheers,
Mathieu
Rick Knoble wrote:
Anybody want to map out where we all are?
http://www.frappr.com/
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
___
For new parts see official list sponsor:
. Now we have two maps for the list
www.frappr.com/dieselbunch and the one Matheiu set up..
Will be happy to delete the dieselbunch... What say you, Matheiu???
Chuck.
On Nov 3, 2005, at 9:52 AM, Mathieu J. Cama wrote:
Just set up a map for everyone.
Link to it at: http
Seeing all the subs already on yours, mine will be deleted momentarily.
Chuck Landenberger wrote:
So much for coordination. Now we have two maps for the list
www.frappr.com/dieselbunch and the one Matheiu set up..
Will be happy to delete the dieselbunch... What say you,
it is for the map admin only.
Gabriel S. wrote:
i don't see the advance menu
It's a scam, most likely. Car is located in Indonesia.
Mathieu Cama
www.oldworldauto.com
Rick Knoble wrote:
http://detroit.craigslist.org/car/105133770.html
$58 large...
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
___
For new parts see official list sponsor:
Been a part of these lists since 1997 when it was still
Mercedes-Veterans. Saw the lists go to mbz.org and saw all the other
lists evolve from the Vets list. During the mbz.org years I had the
pleasure of adminstering a number of those lists.
Mathieu
off to Road Atlanta fro the race in a few
Injection pump.
Gabriel S. wrote:
what is an ip?
Andrew,
There is one bulb that illuminates the switches via fiber optic cable.
The bulb sits in a holder that provides for all of the fiber optic lines
to catch the light. This holder is located in the depths of the center
console on the drivers side. It sits against the console between the
The fellow who taught me the trade used to drag race a '59 bug with a
rather hopped up S90 motor with dual Weber 48s in it during the 1970s.
He was so quick, that they placed him in the Hi-Gas class with the hot
GTOs, Camaros, and the like of the time. Before he stopped racing he was
turning
On that note, I was attending an unveiling of the at the time new r129 at
MBNA headquarters in Montvale and a discussion had ensued about the newer
MBs and computers among some of the attendees and MB officals there. It was
said that in the upcoming w140, there would be more computers on that
Steve,
My recommendation would be to perform a valve adjustment and then a leak
down test. If the issue is a burned valve, you will know it by the sound of
air escaping through the intake or exhaust. It is rare for these motors to
eat a piston to the point where you have zero compression, but
This car is a Euro car unless someone converted it after the fact. Should
it still be in true Euro form, this will be a very nice machine. I have
always wanted one of these w/ a 5 speed. Of course it should be injected
being an E. For reference, my 280slc with 4 speed manual gets about 22-23
Personally, I like to loosen the injector lines from the injectors, pull a
vacuum with a mity-vac on the shut off valve, and then crank the motor. If
the valve is seated correctly there should be no fuel coming from the pump.
If there is fuel, it should be a good amount, and then, yes, the
On US motors the STOP button does not move. This will only apply to Euro
motors and the later pumps in the 60X motors.
At 11:11 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
What he means is when the stop button won't work. A dire
emergency. Don, do this:
1: Put the new valve back in place
2: Leave all 4 bolts
It does not work in that case.
At 11:11 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
No, I think the emergency stop doesn't work if the shutoff valve isn't
in correctly.
I picked my tool up for about $150 on EBay used a few years back. I have
seen them go for as little a $100. I believe Rusty used to have one of
these available for rent. Rusty?
When it comes to doing these timing chains, please use the tool and have
the peace of mind. Yes, the chain can be
These diesels do not have electronic fuel pumps. Once started, these motors
needs no electricity to stay running.
It would be nice if it were that simple.
Mathieu
At 01:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
How bout a home made kill switch?
Take a fuse that will fit for your fuel pump. burn it.
Tim,
You've got it. The shut off stops fuel flow.
Mathieu
At 02:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
I've found the manual shutoff for the VW TDI engine. It's similar to
my MB 617, but it doesn't have the big red stop sign on it. I
understand that it shuts off the fuel flow. That's how the MB shutoff
That's exactly the purpose of that plug. It is a provision for a mechanical
tach. There is an o-ring in there that will leak after a while. Leaks from
this plug are commonplace as these cars are getting up in years.
Mathieu
If I recall correctly, older OM61x engines (or maybe it was OM621
It was only used for diagnostic purposes.
Mathieu
At 08:16 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
A tach would be nice. Where would I find such an animal? Where did it go
inside? Was it part of a different cluster or was it an add on like the
tachs we are familiar with for gasoline engines in older
Here in Atlanta we are blessed with two such driveshaft shops that are up
to this task. On my conversion, I had a true Euro 300d parts car so there
was no need to modify the driveshaft. It was a purely bolt in affair. The
N/A m617 with a manual trans behind it is really a nice driver.
Steve,
Juan,
I occasionally have cars for sale, but my mainstay is repair and mechanical
restoration. There are recyclers here in the area that you should look into
when you get into town. Every once in a while they have some interesting
cars roll through. If by good deals you mean am I am the
Fellow Listers,
A customer of mine is seeking a car to use for his traveling sales job. He
averages 60,000 miles/year. He was thinking of rebuilding a 300sd w126 for
this, but the cost of doing so has him thinking of moving into something
else or at least a far nicer example. Does anyone have
Let me clarify, the fellow is looking at w126 and w124 cars. He does not
want a w123 or anything earlier. Anything newer would likely be out of his
price range. Personally, I think a 300D 2.5 would be the ideal car. Now, to
only find a nice, low mile example.
Mathieu
At 12:21 PM 8/9/2005,
Marshall,
Any thoughts about this one? TIA.
http://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159Bhttp://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159B
Mathieu
A 124 300D 2.5 or E300D (90 thru '95) in good shape could be ideal. The
124 is a LOVELY car to drive on the highway and 30+ mpg of the 602.96 or
606.91 engines
Contact Yankee Diesel in Newton, Ct. He is the sage of all things injection
pump.
Mathieu Cama
At 03:56 PM 8/5/2005, you wrote:
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
One can never have enough. :)
Mathieu
11 and counting
At 11:30 PM 7/29/2005, you wrote:
A dozen is probably enough --
On 7/29/05, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sounds like people are getting Sanford and Son Syndrome... I know it
Get a PPI from a competent shop. If the car has majors, you will know soon
enough to run away.
Mathieu Cama
At 03:36 PM 7/29/2005, you wrote:
On an errand this morning, saw a 450SEL with a for sale, $1200. Looked
pretty nice, blue/blue, paint a bit faded, a few dings here and there,
I have no objections. If you'd want it to cover all MBs from the 114/5 and
back that works for me too. I'd gladly welcome talk and tech about the
older MBs.
Mathieu Cama
At 09:13 AM 7/19/2005, you wrote:
you will have to ask mat that.
redghost wrote:
they going to cover the 115 as well?
Check the fitting on the back of the intake manifold that connects the
plastic line to the alda as well as the banjo fitting on the line. When
this is clogged, your performance will be slow on the m617 turbo. Also, if
this does not help you, there is a switchover valve on the firewall on the
My euro m617 has the same pump. There is no ada. The euro 240d also has the
same pump, just minus one cylinder.
Mathieu Cama
240D 3.0 euro conversion running WVO
www.oldworldauto.com
In a message dated 6/20/2005 6:56:50 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The
My 240d 3.0 is not for sale. I have way too much in it, especially now that
is has a low mile euro 3.0 in it. I plan to use this vehicle as a test bed
for WVO and bio diesel mods. I plan on configuring custom injectors and
with the help of the fellow who does IPs for me we will play with pump
Umm, no. It may not have a floor. They look for things like frame rot
around the suspension points and the frame rails. If the floor is patched,
either metal or fiberglass it would still pass. Personally, I've had many
cars pass that had 3 plus diameter holes in the floor. Then again, I knew
David,
What you describe is typical of a faulty brake flex line. Also a defective
caliper can cause this, but that is less probable being that it is new.
First off, I would recommend that you check to see that you did receive the
new parts that you paid for. If your flex line seems to be dry
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