> Michael wrote:
> The latest symptoms are good heat at belowq 2000 RPM’s but then
> heat would cut out completely at any thing over 2000.
Classic symptoms of damaged diaphragm in the monovalve.
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In some of my research I came across reference to this site. They
are an independent (they say) that analyses unused oil to
determine it's compliance to the label and the standards.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
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> tyee165 wrote:
> Need a means of bolting to the floor in a manner that permits
> removal. Must be some sort of threaded insert for concrete.
Yup. That was what I had in mind with the comment
"I figure I could put nut-anchors in the concrete and only bolt
the changer in place when I need
> > > Randy wrote:
> > >
> > > https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-62317.html
> > >
> > > The biggest issue then is where to install it. If need be, I
> > > think it could be bolted to a 4X4 square of plywood so that
> > > it could be used without permanent installation in one's
> >
> Randy wrote:
> https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-62317.html
> The biggest issue then is where to install it. If need be, I
> think it could be bolted to a 4X4 square of plywood so that it
> could be used without permanent installation in one's garage.
Might work, but there is
> Buggered wrote:
> The Sheikh liked to go roar around the desert in his LM400s.
LM-400?
Lamborghini made an LM002 in the late 1980s. Serious car. I
remember wishing I could take one for an off-road spin back when
they came out. I recall a lot of them went to rich Saudis.
> archer75--- wrote:
> BTW, do you know the name of that really good anti-rust paint
> I've read about on this list? I want to paint the tin roof on
> the storage shed since it's getting a little rusty.
Not rust-proofing, but Coroseal is what I've been using to convert
the rust to paintable
> M. wrote:
> One of these days, I wanna lose the old analog car phone in my
> W210, move the radio to the bottom and put a DIN instrument
> panel in the middle. I'm thinking oil pressure, voltmeter with
> ammeter charge warning light and...I dunno, vacuum?
Temperature of engine oil,
> Dan wrote:
> This is so easy to do these days - there’s an app (one of many
> out there) that uses an ODBII dongle with Bluetooth and your
> phone or tablet to display just about every parameter available
> through the diagnostic port.
Totally useless if the owner is smart enough to have an
> Dan--- wrote:
> Any reason I shouldn’t use Rock Auto for a Bosch reman starter?
I did. Worked well for me.
I really appreciated that they let me use their shipping account
to return the core. It cost me about $12.00 (deducted from the
core charge) to ship my core to CA.
> Andrew wrote:
> I want this in the worst way. Anyone have any good reasons for
> not getting it?
The roof depends on the top steel joint for roof load. It is not
a truss nor a rafter roof. Heavy roof load could be a problem.
The longer the side walls the more it will be a problem. Adding a
> Mitch wrote:
>
> Without a drain cock in the bottom of the block,
OM61x have a block drain. Just forward of the starter motor. I
access it with a long extension through the starboard forward
wheel well.
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> Kaleb wrote:
> On this 240d the linkage that comes from the pedal has 2 prongs
> that stick into the linkage on the engine and should have 2
> plastic busing things in the holes. On this car the plastic
> parts are mostly missing so the pedal had to go about half way
> down before it starts
> > Grant wrote:
> >
> > Perfect ! It has "Andrew" stamped all over it... Should fit
> > all the garden shop stuff nicely... and impress the
> > neighbors...
Is it a 1985?
> Mitch wrote:
>
> I think I might build myself an El Camino for my 55th birthday.
> I've been seeing reports of 2.0L
> Dan wrote:
> I have one of these kits that I got for my former W123 but never
> installed it. If a list member has a W123 that doesn’t have the
> relocated fuse/holder I’ll gift it to them for the cost of
> shipping.
Oooh! I could use one! Or 3 or 4...
If it's not already spoken for - I'll
> > Kaleb wrote:
> > I’m pretty sure my jd tractor has a yanmar. Yep.
> >
> https://www.deere.com/en/tractors/utility-tractors/3-family-compact-utility-tractors/3032e-compact-utility-tractor/
> Curley wrote:
> yes, but that is not exactly a garden tractor.
But the JD 430 is. Made 1984 to
> Curt wrote:
> My small scale experiment was half an ounce of oil in a tuna can, as it got
> hot it'd spit and
> pop,
> The plan right now is to use a turkey fryer and a metal 5
> gallon bucket.
> I just want to nudge 100C, maybe hold it there for a little while.
> ..and I don't want to
> Curt wrote:
> The jack and tools are supposed to be under the front seat. The
> jack was there, nothing else was. I need to call some junkyards.
So how long have you been driving this car - without basic service
tools?7
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> Curt wrote:
> Anybody got a good way to get water out of ATF?
I have a funnel with a filter that lets gasoline through, but not
water. I don't know if it will work with transmission fluid. I
don't know if I'll have time to try that today...
___
> Curt wrote:
> ... and it needs an new exhaust manifold. The latter
> we've known about for years but its recently gotten much worse.
> Apparently Pisten Bully can actually come up with the real thing
> for just over $1000.
Is it repairable? Cast iron can be welded - with care.
Experience is
> Randy wrote:
> Not sure if it applies to automotive bulbs, but my architect son
> advises that over time, LED bulbs fade away. His firm had a
> presentation by some manufacturer or vendor of lighting and were
> advised that LED bulbs get less bright over time.
Correct for white LEDs. Those
> Dan wrote:
> I’m a little confused by the comments on the Moss Motots Page,
> however. They talk about the inability to use LEDs in a positive
> ground system. That doesn’t make sense to me, as I would simply
> reverse the LED. I’m not sure why that wouldn’t work
It will - but I have not
> Curley wrote:
> Can anyone guess why the car builders love to sell trucks and
> SUVs?
Less regulations, lower build cost, higher sell price, and the buyers want them.
Next?
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> Bob wrote:
> IS an AGM battery worth it??
I don't know. Lots of people say good things about them. But if
it is twice the price, I should get twice the life. I'm not sure
it adds up.
> How can I check if starter is good ?? 83 240D
Well - put in a new one and see if it's fixed? *smiles*
> Rdeafboy wrote:
> Anybody use AGM type battery??
AGM is functionally a drop-in replacement for flooded cell battery
in a car. Charge voltage is close enough it seems to work out
just fine.
Are they better than flooded cell? They cost more, so AGM must be
better - right?
> My Interstate
> Dan wrote:
> As in Tejas, we have large groups of turkey vultures, which
> perform an amazing community service by clearing roads and
> pretty much and open areas of dead animals.
Is that year 'round? Or are there more of them in the winter?
I'm asking because most of the turkey vultures
> Curley wrote:
> I wonder if this would be useful on one of our old cars?
My opinion? Not very. Best I can tell in reading the copy is it
is a digital volt meter. I'm not fond of digital gauges because I
don't scan them as easily.
The percent-of-full is not going to be very useful since it
> G wrote:
> For those of you who have never been hunting:
>
> https://www.helibacon.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4idlNjG2AIVCYGzCh2DTgeaEAAYAiAAEgJ2w_D_BwE
I guess I'm picky.
The copy says "...M16 in your hands." and a bit later "Reload the
machine gun and engage."
*sigh*
Even at full auto an
> G wrote:
> With a solar battery bank, the charge level will not reach 100%
> if you have a weak battery. It will draw down the strong
> batteries to it's level.
Correct. That is the inherent problem with a pure parallel system.
> No worries...
>
> Identify with load tester, pull out the
> Dan wrote:
> That’s not hunting, that’s eradication. Hunting would imply
> tracking and stalking your prey.
Tracking and stalking is - well, tracking and stalking. Hunting
is "go looking for prey". I see no requirement for tracking, or
stalking, or hiding in a blind, or being "sporting" in
> M. wrote:
> I don't think your average auto charger could do more than 2-3
> at once, tops.
If it's just a trickle charge, yes. If each trickle change is not
more than 0.5 A, a 10 A charger could manage 20.
But if you just connect them all in parallel, they may not each
get what they need
> Kaleb wrote:
> Over the years I have acquired dozens of group 49 batteries.
> So anyway, I have been thinking for years of a way to have a
> rack of batteries stored, but have them wired up in parallel and
> have a float charger or maintainer hooked to the bank of
> batteries.
> What do you
> tyee165 wrote:
> Is that the block drain in the lower right of the photo?
Referring to Craig's email set Sat, 6 Jan 2018 11:48:50 -0700
filename om617.block.heater.jpg
Yes. That is the block drain.
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> > Curt wrote:
> >
> > We each have several pairs of studded rubber things you put on
> > your shoes. Work a treat for walking in icy conditions.
> Craig wrote:
>
> Those things are helpful, some more than others.
>
> When I was at Los Alamos National Laboratory, we were given some
> Yaktrax
> > Curt wrote
> >
> > How did you get the formatting to stick? The listserv seems to
> > hate Yahoo mail...
> Craig wrote:
>
> I just replied to your email and edited the URLs, putting them on
> separate lines from all the other text, so there was a CR-LF at
> the end of the URL before the
> Curt wrote:
> How did you get the formatting to stick? The listserv seems to
> hate Yahoo mail...
Listserver, like a proper email server does NOT like HTML formated email.
Try sending as "plain text"
I found this instruction site. I cannot vouch for it's accuracy.
May not even be the
> Curt wrote:
> So as a follow up to my getting the ASV started yesterday I
> thought maybe you'd like to see it:
Cool. I've read about your working with them, but never bothered
to figure out what they look like.
> comparison:https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4692/38831788994_6328cf950f_b.jpg
>
> Jim wrote:
> This turned out to be one of the skating rink thaw days that
> plague our hill,
> I figured that if I could just get unstuck I could probably get
> to the bottom of the hill OK.
> The only other real option was to call for a tow out, which
> would have left us very vulnerable to
> WILTON wrote:
> Coupla weeks ago, I needed a leaf blower... Found
> battery-operated, 60 volt model
60 V - is that a DeWalt? Just curious.
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> Curley wrote:
> Show me a SPC control chart of the (actual, not tampered) temps
> going back say 500 or 1000 years, and you will see nothing is
> out of control.
Seems that tampered data is considered "at risk". There was
concern that the data might be removed from the web by the current
> G wrote:
> At full load only 1 gallon per hour is "conservative". I have
> owned 6 of these engines, presently own one 8V92 [same
> cylinders, just 2 more of them].
>
> Plan for 2 to 3 gallons per hour at full load
Do you mean "minute" not "hour"?
> > > Andrew wrote:
> > >
> > > Block heater was definitely buggered due to frayed cord.
> > Curley wrote:
> >
> > And HOW MANY TIMES WERE YOU TOLD TO CHANGE THE CORD
> Andrew replied:
>
> Don't be a schmuck - the cord isn't sold separately.
Ah! But it _is_ sold separately. Or was.
> Rick wrote:
> I suspect the cables are universal, but I am not 100 percent
> sure. This one looks very familiar.
There are two different heater ends used on OM6ix. I don't
remember the difference, or which car needed which one - but I
have worked with two different types. NOT
> Dan wrote:
> Anyone here done a mesh wifi network in their house with an Eero
> or similar hardware?
>
> I’m giving it some thought as a replacement for the dual band
> wifi I currently run that just barely covers the whole house.
Not mesh, but I _really_ like all of the Ubiquity hardware
> Clean and full. I did have some
> brake fluid trouble earlier that did activate the brake lamp.
> Would it be the brake wear sensors? And why would the manual
> not indicate what the lamp is?
>
>
> clay
>
> 1974 450sl - Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 1982 300 SD - Allen
>
> Floyd wrote:
> Johns Island. To get to Kiawah, Seabrook, and Wadmalaw Islands
> one has to transit Johns Island. We have 2 bridges on/off.
I'm disappointed...
In reading your posts over the years I have imagined a 3 or 5 mile
long causeway connecting the island to the mainland.
I just used
> Fred wrote:
> Put foam insulation on pipes and filled the hard to access void
> with foam. This bloody foam sticks to everything, fingers, coat,
> hat, pipes,the can itself, but the darn stuff will not stick to
> brick or wood without much encouragement, mostly verbal!
If possible, clean off
> Gerry wrote:
> Putting in a new one can be a messy and difficult job in icy
> weather; even for a DIYer.
One feature I really like about the OM61x engines is the effective
and easy to get to block drain. Using a kinda long extension from
the front starboard wheel well remove the block drain.
> Curley wrote:
> Taking the PLUG out of the block requires 1) 6' breaker; 2)
> major beating; 3) Flame wrench; 4) All of these.
>
> Taking the HEATER out can usually be done with a 12" channellock
> or similar.
Correct.
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> > Curt wrote:
> >
> > Being on the edge of the country seems to be an advantage, we
> > don't have those super huge truckstops in New England.
Maybe an advantage to non-drivers...
> Mitch wrote:
>
> Being crowded causes that. It's hard for truckers to find
> overnight parking in New England
> Andrew wrote:
> No warmth whatsoever. I guess mine is a virtual block heater.
One hour is not enough time for a dependable hand test.
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> Andrew wrote:
> 12 deg. this AM. I parked facing UPhill on Sunday rather than
> facing downhill. This morning I plugged it in as usual for an
> hour
One hour?
The system won't reach equilibrium for at least 4 hours. As with
any fixed heat output setup, the early time is more effective
> > fmiser sez:
> >
> > Except on Andrew's car. I recall he still has it on.
> Rick wrote:
>
> That's the car he sold.
> This one is an '83 300TD.
I'm not keeping up!
But then it was kinda pointless for Dan to check EPC on an '85...
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> Dan wrote:
> ...it will clear the trap oxidizer (a moot point now, of course):
Except on Andrew's car. I recall he still has it on.
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> Dan wrote:
> I looked up an 85 300TD and Bosch only shows one part, an SR70X
> (remanufactured).
>
> https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/alternators-and-starters/remanufactured-starters?partId=SR70X
Hmm. My notes show a SR67x is the starter for the turbo motors,
the non-turbo starter is
> > > Curt wrote:
> > >
> > > PV has a very long payback period. Much better to install
> > > solar hotwater, last I checked it'd pay for itself in 3-5
> > > years.
> > Andrew wrote:
> >
> > Bologna. Prices for PV have plummeted.
> Curt wrote:
> You also don't get the rated output. We've got
> Andrew wrote:
> Advance auto offers Delco and Bosch starters. Fairly
> significant price difference. Any good reason to spring for the
> Bosch?
The Bosch starters last longer and run better than any of others
I've tried. From my reading, I'm not the only one with that experience.
ON
> Dan wrote:
> Why do I have an aversion to the idea of getting “food grade
> grease” from Amsoil?
Food grade grease if for the machines that handle food. If you
have a meat band saw, do you want non-food grade grease on the
bandwheel bearings?
___
> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > Just high RPM isn't enough, so running the engine against the
> > governor in a low gear isn't effective. It is the heat caused
> > by max power and high RPM that clears junk out.
> Gerry wrote:
>
> Well, guess I'll have to wait until a trip to Georgia or beyond
>
> archer75--- wrote:
> My '83 300D (same drivetrain as yours), which also doesn't get
> driven much, does the same thing. It sort of "hammers" and
> shakes the engine at idle in any kind of weather.
> I vaguely recall that carbon buildup isq supposed to be the
> cause and the cure is to lug the
> Curley wrote:
> The OM621/61x starters are basically tractor
> or truck starters. Very durable.
And the danger in long cranking is heat. If the situation is
sub-freezing cold-start, heat is not much of an issue.
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> Andrew wrote:
> On my W123 300TD, I am having a hard time getting it started
> when the temperature dips below 20 F despite the car being
> plugged into the block heater. It takes 2 minutes of multiple
> glows and attempts before I can get it fired up. Once I get it
> started the engine runs
> > > Craig wrote:
> >
> > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/302579536655?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123
> > Fmiser replied:
> >
> > Nice truck!
>
> Thank you, Philip.
> > 40,000 lb tandems is a bonus and allows for over-weight
> > hauling. 13 speed transmission is an odd mate for the tandems,
> Craig wrote:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/302579536655?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123
Nice truck!
40,000 lb tandems is a bonus and allows for over-weight hauling.
13 speed transmission is an odd mate for the tandems, though...
No mention of the steer axle weight capacity. Typical is not
> Andrew wrote:
> forthcoming all-electric semitrucks,
I'm picking an nits - but the "semi" refers to the trailer.
Approx. 50% of the trailer weight is on the tractor, so it is a
"semi-trailer". The tractor is NOT a "semi-truck".
> Meanwhile, there's a small shop in Los Angeles making electric
> Buggered wrote:
> ANDREW!!! Needs that!!!
He won't want it. It's one of the better pre-1985 models and he
prefers the cluttered '85s.
I'd like it. I don't think I can afford $4k right now. It is
close enough, though...
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> > > OK Don wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm thinking of building a trap consisting of several (5 to
> > > 7) sheets of 3/4" plywood, separated by 2X4's on the long
> > > edge, with the space between the sheets filled with sand.
> > Curt wrote:
> >
> > Back the "trap" with about 100 cubic yards of sand
As of some time between 03:30 and 04:00 UTC on Wednesday, each
message has a "X-Assp-Intended-For" header listing (probably)
every list members email address.
I sent a message about 2 hours later and for the first time in
multiple _years_ I saw my own message. GMail has been "helpful"
and
> > Michael wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have a set of hubcaps for 14” aluminum wheels in
> > champagne?
> Russ wrote:
>
> Just checked and I do have a complete set they came with my
> Champagne 240D. Original owner had put Bunts on the car. Gave me
> the steel rims and caps
Michael actually
> Kaleb wrote:
> still haven’t been able to identify what happened. All of the
> hoses are intact, the radiator still has coolant, no strangeness
> in the engine bay. I was driving it around 11 pmand wasn’t
> worried about the gauges. Never had a problem with it before. I
> noticed it having a
> Dwight wrote:
> Anybody brave enough to try it in an OM 616?
Sure! But only if it's bio-diesel and not VO. If it's been
trans-esterfied into biodiesel, all that matters really is
viscosity and cloud-point - 'cause it _is_ diesel.
I would NOT use just the oil straight because that is just
> Max wrote:
> https://www.usatoday.com/story/tech/2017/11/16/tesla-semi-electric-big-rig-truck-rolls-into-reality/873162001/
>
> More significantly for trucking companies, Musk said that a
> standard diesel truck would be 20% more expensive to operate
> than a Tesla truck: $1.26 per mile
> Curt wrote:
> I'm using 50 grains of powder in that but may go up
> to 60, my flintlock .45 likes that load a little better.
I think the traditional way to figure the load is to lay the rifle
with the muzzle on a white sheet. Increase the load until there
is lots of soot on the sheet. That
> > Hoodstacked 1991 Mercedes 300D
> >
> > https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/6338281656.html
> Fred wrote:
> Why!?
Hmmm. Maybe to keep the windshield wiper well lubricated? Or at
least the windshield. Just a touch of oil blow-by and the
windshield and roof get oiled - not the
> Karl wrote:
> I suspect that the na606 filter from the 1995 e300d is a bit
> under size for my fuel level on the turbo 606 motor however,
The turbo-charged engine _will_ pump more air through.
However, normally aspirated _engine_ is "sucking" the air through
the filter so filter size and
> Kaleb wrote:
> It sounds like I need to get a solder station. Got any
> suggestions?
That soldering iron I think you got a few months ago will do a
mighty fine job. You can spend a lot more money, but I have a
hard time justifying adding more than a Solderpult to suck the old
solder off in
> > > Dan wrote:
> > >
> > > I agree. As dear old Dad always told me, "Dress like the CEO
> > > and people will treat you like one."
> > Randy wrote:
> >
> > My elder son ... has always
> > been a "preppie" sort and dresses pretty conservatively. A good
> > thing when one represents the office
> Randy wrote:
> I prefer the old round gauges. But, I had an 08 Honda Civic for
> a year and it had the digital speedo up high above the rest of
> the gauges.
> ... The numbers were large
> My truck on the other hand has round gauges and the numbers are
> fairly small
A big part of
> Meade wrote:
> Wow, Digikey's selection of capacitors is overwhelming.
Yeah, kinda.
> What should my first choice be on this list?
Aluminum Electrolytic is the style that is most likely to fail.
So that is probably what you are replacing.
Tantalum are rather pricey, but less likely to
> > > Rick wrote:
> > >
> > > https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/1984-mercedes-benz-300/6367497195.html
> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > OM617 turbo AND a manual transmission!?! Ooh
> Craig wrote:
>
> No, not a turbo from the VIN.
Ahh. Right.
But it would sure be easy to put a turbo
> Andrew wrote:
> Speaking of rubbers, I just received the outside window rubber
>
> What's the best tool to cut this? There is a metal core.
Sharp tin snips. Think "very sturdy scissors."
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> Rick wrote:
> https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/1984-mercedes-benz-300/6367497195.html
OM617 turbo AND a manual transmission!?! Ooh
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> > Kaleb sez:
> >
> > Maybe I am understanding it wrong.
> Rick wrote:
>
> Yep. It's your fault.
> Just go buy a new Toyota for her and be done.
Naw. Toyota parts are too pricey. Get an old chevy/buick like
the ones Snook talks about. Should be cheap to buy and cheap to
fix.
> Kaleb wrote:
> Not sure if I can bring this one back
> to life. Unbelievable. I have had this car for 8 years or so. I
> highly suspect texting while driving.
The car did it's job - keep the people safe.
Now there is no reason not to make that 240D your primary driver!
*grin*
> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > Ah - (almost) everything _tries_ to harvest personal
> > information. *grin*
> >
> > Some of us use means to prevent it. And there are apps that
> > don't - at least for Android. Check out https://f-droid.org/
> > for non-google apps.
> Mitch wrote:
>
> What's the
> > Dan sez:
> >
> > but they also harvested your personal >information, so that
> > was a big negative.
> Rick wrote:
> EVERYTHING harvests your personal information.
Ah - (almost) everything _tries_ to harvest personal information.
*grin*
Some of us use means to prevent it. And there are
> Dan wrote:
> I love the phone app, since it lets me enter my fuel stuff right
> when I do it. I have the iPad version, too, for easier data
> entry at home for repairs and such.
Must not be storing it locally if you can enter data from two
devices.
Is there also a desktop client?
> Kaleb wrote:
> So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust
> specs supposed to be?
0.1 mm intake, 0.35 mm exhaust
or 0.004 inch intake, 0.014 inch exhaust.
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> Kaleb wrote:
> So I can look it up but am lazy. What is the intake and exhaust
> specs supposed to be? Also I am trying to remember if it’s best
> to do it on a warm or cold engine. I seem to recall I have
> always done it cold.
Cold. Like "sit all night" cold.
> Kaleb wrote:
> Probably should do a valve adjustment while I’m at it. No
> telling when that has been done. It’s been years since I have
> done this job.
I think you are getting in over you head. Better sell that thing
quick before you go crazy!
___
> Russ wrote:
> I guess you do that when you don't know how to navigate.
"Associated Press said the women want to repair the boat and sail
it back to Hawaii."
Oh my!
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> Dan wrote:
> If you’re in or around shipping lanes, you better have a watch.
Or radar that will beep if something is out there.
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> Buggered wrote:
> At about 40 it started to shimmy really badly the other evening
> just a half mile or so up the road. Felt like RF wheel. I came
> home and got in a the SD and carried on. Anyway the steering
> seems tight enough, tires ok,
Are you _sure_ the tires are okay? That sure sounds
> Dan wrote:
> I have a question for all of the former and present 300D owners
> here. What’s the best fuel mileage you ever got from the car?
> ...the very best I can ever recall getting in either a turbo or
> non-turbo was in the mid to upper 20s, maybe 27-28 at the very,
> very best.
I
> > Donald wrote:
> >
> > With my new job, I have a 130 mile commute...
> Max wrote:
>
> finance a hybrid beater
A hybrid is a poor choice for a long highway commute. More
complexity, heavy battery, and very little benefit.
> > So, one question is whether it even makes sense to get another
> >
> > Andrew wrote:
> >
> > How about someone who really knows his wild mushrooms?
> MG wrote:
> I go out and pick Chantrelles when they are growing. They are
> one of the best mushrooms for cooking and have a great taste.
Yup. My "plot" didn't grow any this year. Probably 'cause it was
too
> Kaleb wrote:
> I take back the blow by part. After it’s warmed up it does have
> your normal amount of it.
Sounds pretty risky. I think you should sell it quick. 'Cause I
like you, I'll increase my offer to $325. You don't really want a
W123 anyway - not after all those OM60x engines.
> Floyd wrote:
> In general the body is rusting away so not a lot of good body
> work there. What other bits should I keep?
Everything unique to the S123. Hatch latch, lift struts (if they
are good), all the SLS stuff (high pressure hose under the hood,
pump, tank, leveling valve,
> > fmiser wrote:
> >
> > Keep the starch (carbs) and oils/fats 4 hours
> > apart and the quantity doesn't matter.
> Max wrote:
>
> Can you put some color on this? Source?
Trim Healthy Mama (THM) has popularized the technique. But it is
a huge, convoluted, and not logically progressive book.
> Scott wrote:
> Tower fly-by is a basic flight test technique to calibrate a new
> pitot-static system.
> My most memorable flyby was a 600 KIAS pass to a closed
> pattern. The turn to downwind was wide, even at 7g, and we had
> to extend the downwind leg (a lot) to get slow enough to lower
>
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