Schade. Take the Turbo off and send it back. That RVT gets in the head
and smoking is the start of your problems.
Did they really paint the exhaust housing?
-Rolf
On 3/16/2012 11:39 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Photo of the new turbo hanging in place and one showing the missing stud.
mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL
More followup:
The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I
Dieselhead wrote:
I have been a fan of the blue permatex in small quantities. as in put a
little on your finger and rub it on the surface. It takes almost none
to work well. I have seen frod dealers smear way too much black RTV on
everything in sight.
Many times the blue goo has bailed
-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 8:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL
Dieselhead wrote:
I have been a fan of the blue permatex in small quantities. as in put a
little
Photo of the new turbo hanging in place and one showing the missing stud.
-- next part --
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More followup:
The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the
turbo. The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.
I know
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 22:34:34 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
More followup:
The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo
Bolt holes are 8mm. top to bottom of the machined surface is maybe 2
I don't write manuals. I don't have a photographer standing by. You
are lucky that I think enough of y'all to try to clean up and take a
few pitchurs ; )
I admit it would be nice to have a good writeup with pictures,
] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL
More followup:
The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the
turbo. The other photo is a closup
Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL
More followup:
The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
What I pulled off can be seen
always said not to use that stuff. Guess he was right again.
Thanx for pics.
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo
Oil gets in compressor naturally from oil breather in head. The oil feed
pipe runs right over the exhaust and I've had one break there dripping
on exhaust. Haven't really kept up with the thread, sorry.
It's a shame I just sold my old one for $80 on ebay :(.
The euro manifolds (sans egr) can
But is that what caused it? Sealant plugging the oil passage?
Randy
On 16/03/2012 5:40 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil, scored the crank, and it
broke on the highway doing 60, trashed the engine.
Peter
On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Big blob of orange silicone sealant in the oil passage at the spun
bearing.
Peter
On Mar 17, 2012, at 2:06 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
But is that what caused it? Sealant plugging the oil passage?
Randy
On 16/03/2012 5:40 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil,
So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked in and
plugged an oil passage???
Randy
On 15/03/2012 6:16 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
At least it was just the turbo, and not the #2 main oil passage like
it was on my brother's 75 300D.
Peter
On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:08 PM,
Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil, scored the crank, and it
broke on the highway doing 60, trashed the engine.
Peter
On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked in
and plugged an oil passage???
Randy
On
How would you get oil in the compressor if the oil feed was leaking?
It accounts for leaking outside the turbo, but not oil inside the
turbo.
Anyhow, I had it just about done by noon, then found a tin ring on
the ground. Figured out it must have been inside the flex coupling
between the
Oh the trap oxidizer replacement pipe = football replacement. :-)
On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 11:46 PM, John Freer mbfo...@gmail.com wrote:
Actually, only the 86 West coast 603's had the football trap oxidizer. All
87's had them.
John
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:44 PM,
Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on top
or from underneath. So you have to take the football (trap oxidizer)
elimination pipe and the EGR out anyway. It would have been a lot
easier to do that in the first place.
Oil leak found: the oil supply pipe was loose
Was the RTV clogging due to use somewhere else, or locally?
Getting a complete unit to replace the dead certainly was the right call.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go
At least it was just the turbo, and not the #2 main oil passage like
it was on my brother's 75 300D.
Peter
On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on
top or from underneath. So you have to take the football (trap
on the gasket for the supply line. glued down to the turbo only,
with great excess.
Fortunately all my other 603 were apparently un- messed with. un-buggered up.
Will post more observations when I actually pull it out of the car.
I have to take loose one bracket hung on the exhaust
Check out the attachment for some factory procedures on turbochargers.
On Thu, Mar 15, 2012 at 5:28 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
on the gasket for the supply line. glued down to the turbo only, with
great excess.
Fortunately all my other 603 were apparently un- messed with.
You should not need to order parts more than once. It is a relatively
straightforward job, but it does take some time. The exhaust parts tend to
come loose without too much trouble. You will need (or find it easier) to
get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe. It may also help to
Oil in compressor is from intake not turbo. Did you verify its not the supply
line?
--
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to rewind on my
commodore 64.
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that
I have decided I'm using part of my bonus this year to buy a rebuilt
turbo for my 87 300D -- same symptoms (blue smoke on startup,
excessive oil consumption (worse on the highway) and definitely
lethargic turbo response when cold, all the same problems I had with
the 85 Volvo TD when it's
That seems like a reasonable life expectancy, especially when you
don't know what the PO did.
In spite of the fact that my turbo came in minus a stud, I'd still
getting your turbo from Rusty. The fact that he has had ZERO returns
over a lot of years tells me they are a good rebuild.
I took
It seems to me that taking off the EGR valve and the football
eliminator pipe would make access much easier. Are these necessary
for access, or just a convenience for getting the turbo out? I am
going to start on this tomorrow.
Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly. You will
What is the football eliminator pipe? You don't have to separate the EGR
valve from the pipe it bolts to. There are big fat o-rings that keep all
those intake pipes together. You probably won't even need to replace them
unless they were butchered in the past.
But I strongly suggest not bolting
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs
with a post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual
parts and what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for
a
It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs
with a post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual
parts and what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for
a few weeks...
Or take pictures with a digital camera
Or both :-)
Rick
This is a 603, not a 617. All US 603s had a football smog crap
over the top of the exhaust manifold. This caused problems, and led
to an extended warranty, where the stealer would replace the football
with a pipe, and replace the trashed turbo if the football was not
replaced before it
Actually, only the 86 West coast 603's had the football trap oxidizer. All 87's
had them.
John
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:44 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
This is a 603, not a 617. All US 603s had a football smog crap over the
top of the exhaust manifold. This
The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and
the oil filler cap loose. [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with
the cap off at idle. a whole lot at higher rpm.] Still roughly the
same amount of oil coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown
out in wisps
I
Can anyone find the pdf for removing a turbo in a SDL? (or a OM603 in
a 300D or 300TD for that matter)
Dave M's online version does not have anything about the turbo. Nor
did his notes.
I think he has notes in the 124 section. I will have to look there.
I found a really good how to from
You should not need to order parts more than once. It is a relatively
straightforward job, but it does take some time. The exhaust parts tend to
come loose without too much trouble. You will need (or find it easier) to
get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe. It may also help to
THanks for the info. It is not the parts for the job, that require
the second wait. It is stuff that is not in the kit or things that
you find when you are in there that cause the second order.
You should not need to order parts more than once. It is a relatively
straightforward job, but
Right, like if the bushings around the transmission are bad or you decide
you want new studs, washers, or nuts for the exhaust, or one or both of the
flex pipes or clamps appears to be in poor condition.
I recall the job vividly because I had a KKK rebuilt and it wouldn't spool
up. So I had to
From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that right?
Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence
of seal failure?
Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?
Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?
It
Dieselhead wrote:
From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that right?
Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
seal failure?
...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
pressure, the oil will get into
All diesel engines have some blowby -- easy enough to check on a 603,
just pull the hard plastic hose out of the intake boot in front of
the turbo.
I believe mine is bad, due to the amount of oil consumption (too high
for the front seal leak to account for) and blue smoke on startup
(new
Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the
turbo off? My guess is not. I can't imagine the drain getting
plugged when M1 is in the engine.
I am inclined to order a turbo cartridge and just change it. If the
drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the
The turbos can be either Garrett or KKK. They were used interchangeably
from the factory. You do not need to take off the exhaust manifold. You
will need the metal gasket that goes between the turbo the manifold. You
may need to purchase studs or new copper nuts if you have problems. The
I did not pull off the intake yet. That was on my list for the
morning. Along with wrapping the joint at the crossover/intake
manifold with a white rag and after a highway drive, checking to see
if oil is leaking out there.
After 300k to 400k, the shaft on my old SDL had imperceptible side
It is unlikely that hot shutoffs killed your turbo. Some parts just break
and no amount of oil changes or babying could have prevented it.
On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 5:52 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
I did not pull off the intake yet. That was on my list for the morning.
Along
Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly. You will probably
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well. Not a big deal.
The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with
strap clamps, easy
yes. 270k miles is on the low side of longevity, but not unheard of.
500k miles is probably the top of longevity. (with possible outliers)
It is unlikely that hot shutoffs killed your turbo. Some parts just break
and no amount of oil changes or babying could have prevented it.
On Mon,
Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?
It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from
below. What is the best method for getting the turbo out?
I think I am on to something. With the crossover off, the insides
are abnormally clean. Like a
The Garrett and KKK turbochargers are interchangeable and both were used.
On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?
It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from below.
What is
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