On 4/26/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've also seen Harley Davidson and Kawasaki police
cars, much less room in those than in a Saturn SL.
German vehicle content: The Oregon and Washington highway patrols just
retired all their Kawasaki bikes and replaced them with BMWs. It's a
On 4/26/06, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You are comparing the worn out horse hair seats of your 83 123 with the
seats in a 97 Subaru? I bet the seats in a 97 KIA would feel better.
Think about how much butt time has been spent in that Benz. Come on,
wait until the Subaru seats
I always get the question as to why the W126. My response is that if you
drive it for a month your butt will not get out of it.
My wife when we were dating had a Honda Accord, she let her parents borrow
the car for a couple of week while she drove my 300SD. The whole time she
complained about
I've also seen Harley Davidson and Kawasaki police cars, much less room in
those than in a Saturn SL.
The Harleys and Kawasakis I've seen have one seat and unlimited head and
elbow room. What ARE you on about here?
RLE
I test drove a new MB and didn't think it was any better than the Ford
(or whatever) I also test
drove
Anybody who seriously makes a statement like this must be suffering from a
serious case of sensory deprivation.
The perfect Saturn customer, now that I think about it.
RLE
Jim Cathey wrote:
What is the boost pressure supposed to be on a 1985 300Dt?
Only 8-10# IIRC.
Between 700-800 millibar under full load AND between 2000-5000 rpm.
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/09-450.pdf
Near as I can tell Mathieu is correct. There's just no place the
light range switch can go on a W123 anywhere near the headlight
switch. Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'm thinking I'll
mix up some fairly soupy epoxy with some ground up pencil lead for
color and make a mold out of
OK, now for the dumb question: How do you measure boost pressure? ...especially
under full load at 2000-5000 RPM?
Thanks,
Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Cathey wrote:
What is the boost pressure supposed to be on a 1985 300Dt?
Only 8-10# IIRC.
Between 700-800
It is the my new windows machine is way faster than a mac argument, not
bothering to clarify that the Mac was 7 years old, never had a component
fail and the hard drive was full and was never defragmented.
At 05:32 PM 4/26/2006, you wrote:
Levi Smith wrote:
The seats are nice and firm,
What were the differences in the engines from a 116
turbo diesel to say a 85 123 turbo engine?? Would it
be a straight switch or is there some more major
differences??
Eric
crunched 85 300 CD 94K
__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has
Levi Smith wrote:
Perhaps my Benz' handling is not what it once was, but it doesn't hold a
candle to my Sube. The 300D isn't horrible, but it weighs about 25% more
and has enough of that boaty ok, I'm gonna make a turn feeling, that I
feel like racecar man once I'm in the sube.
Never driven
It was like a little W123 convention when I stopped for fuel in Renton,
today. I pulled up and there was a 300D and a 240D already at the pump.
Little moments of synchronicity like that always make me smile.
David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo
A 240D will feel like a 560SEL in comparison.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Recently read a note asking about putting a W123 300D into a 350SDL
rodbender on another forum - the short answer given was - yes, it;s an
easy change.
Has anyone tried this? Is it an easy change as they said? Seems
Oil filter housing will have to be changed to accept the electronic oil
pressure switch for 1985.
1985 they had the EGR and pop off valve (both of which usually gets
disconnected).
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of eric peterson
do a google seach of peak oil, you will be shocked.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Hydrogen is only a battery -- storage. There is always some energy
lost during transfers (heat, in fact, usually, although noise is wasted
energy, too). Using the electricity to charge a battery or run a train
would
oh geez, looking for a replacement for the saturn?
Gary Hurst wrote:
and how low is this being sold for??
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72
you must have been watching Boston Legal, the best TV show on right now.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Stop the gibber jabber!
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 11:56:57 -0500, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84
You would have to swap the entire engine/tranny assembly, the glow plug
wiring etc might be different, motor mount arms will be different, other
things also Im sure I am forgetting.
eric peterson wrote:
What were the differences in the engines from a 116
turbo diesel to say a 85 123 turbo
On that note I just picked up a 1967 Dodge M-37..I am going to replace
the engine with a MBZ 5 cyl, hopefully a turbo if I can find one. THe truck
has a divorced transfer case so motor mounts a tranny mount and a driveshaft
are the hard parts.
Mike
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've also seen Harley Davidson and Kawasaki police cars, much less room in
those than in a Saturn SL.
The Harleys and Kawasakis I've seen have one seat and unlimited head and
elbow room. What ARE you on about here?
You were complaining that a ten year old Saturn
No 123 had electronic oil pressure sender.
Trampas wrote:
Oil filter housing will have to be changed to accept the electronic oil
pressure switch for 1985.
1985 they had the EGR and pop off valve (both of which usually gets
disconnected).
Trampas
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90
Hit 292292 last weekend on the turnpike --
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78
Mitch Haley wrote:
John W. Reames III wrote:
I've seen tag-teams working where the spotter ran with traffic in a
cavalier (the giveaway was the windshield mounted transponder and you
could see the blinky-dinks if you looked closely) and the pursuit car was
elsewhere.
Sounds like VASCAR
wilton strickland wrote:
Flying rock from a landscaper's grass trimmer broke rt rr window in my
showroom 87 300D today. 'Fraid guys at glass shop my not know how to rr
inside panel without damage to panel, tabs, etc.
Perhaps you'd feel better if the dealer did it? I hope your local dealer
They use white circles about a yard (meter) in diameter here -- I
think they got the idea from crop circles ;-)
Sounds like VASCAR without the airplane.
With VASCAR, a guy in an airplane with a stopwatch times your progress between
two marks on the pavement that define a measured distance.
On 4/26/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I hope your local dealer remembers
how a W124 goes together.
HAHAHAHA!
Don't count on it.
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
David Brodbeck wrote:
Could also be pacing with a certified speedometer, but I somehow doubt
you could order a Cavalier with one.
Late model Cavis were electronic, you could adjust them with the dealer's
computer device. I don't know how you'd ever trace it to a certified standard
though.
I believe it comes off like a 126 - slides straight up - not snap-off
the door sideways like a 123.
On 4/26/06, wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Flying rock from a landscaper's grass trimmer broke rt rr window in my
showroom 87 300D today. 'Fraid guys at glass shop my not know how to
Smith, Todd wrote:
Thanks Mitch,
How would I tell if it has a balance shaft or not? Are you referring to the
harmonic balancer?
No, I'm talking about a weighted shaft which does nothing but vibrate out of
phase
with the engine vibrations to cancel them. Lots of four cylinder cars have
Back when the CHP had some (Fast!) Mustangs and Camaros, I asked a friend of
mine what he did about transporting 'Perps'. George (a CHP Sergeant, at the
time) said he cuffed them to a nearby tree, using a length of chain from the
trunk, until one of the Victorias came available.
Jerry
The supposedly free 86 benz was already spoken for when I got there
this morning at 9:30. It was an earlier edition 500SE. It had sat in
the parking lot for at least the winter if not longer. Had been hit on
passenger side softly, not too smelly, just old and probably clapped
out.
While
I first ran into the balance shaft in my '74 Sonett (Saab) with the
V-4 (Ford forklift engine). I don't imagine that the fiberglass body
would have lasted long without the balance shaft!
No, I'm talking about a weighted shaft which does nothing but vibrate out of
phase
with the engine
Actually, I am looking for a replacement for the Sunbird.
On 4/26/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
oh geez, looking for a replacement for the saturn?
Gary Hurst wrote:
and how low is this being sold for??
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87
In a message dated 4/26/2006 10:59:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Back when the CHP had some (Fast!) Mustangs and Camaros, I asked a friend of
mine what he did about transporting 'Perps'. George (a CHP Sergeant, at the
time) said he cuffed them to a nearby tree,
I'd let the dealer do the job, but if you or anyone else is removing
the rear (or front) door panel on a W124, the big tip is DO NOT PRY
OUTWARD. Remove the plastic stuff, unbolt the top of the door handle,
slide the door handle housing forward to un-clip it, then the whole
panel slides straight
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 07:37:51 -0500 Potter, Tom E
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There is some good info on balance shafts and vibration here:
http://www.aphkac.com/automotive/technical/balance/
Actually, start at
http://www.aphkac.com/automotive/technical/balance/smooth1.htm
Craig
Seems that when the rods bend, the cylinders go oval within a thousand
miles or less (as expected -- the piston won't fit crooked).
First sign is excessive oil consumption, but sometimes is the noise of
the piston clanking in the now oval bore.
This isn't a gradual failure.
Peter
Do not exceed 13 psi, higher pressures will significantly reduce engine
life. Often need a new wastegate control spring by now, they gradually
shrink from usage and will often have only 7 or 8 psi pressure
developing. That makes for sluggish performance and low milage. New
spec is 11 or 12
Like the W126, NOT like the W123. Panel must be shoved UP after
armrest top screw is removed, along with window switch and trim, plus
door latch bucket. Ashtray must come out, too. DO NOT pry inward,
you'll need a new panel, it's held onto the door by vertical hooks.
Very slick, until
You know the scary part is that you keep a camera handy for such moments.
Perhaps you need another hobby to keep you busy, looks like you got enough
cars. What about building a MB out of matchsticks, I know someone build a
minature 123 out of lego but that is way too easy.
Hendrik
who only
Sounds like someone is not happy to be beaten to it, should have got up
earlier you know what the say about the early bird and all that.
Hendrik
who is not an morning person and only just an afternoon person
- Original Message -
From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes list
Had another look at your picture and figured that in another three miles
your tripmeter would read 666, now that is scary. You must be driving the
Devil's chariot.
Hendrik
who does look at the tripmeter to figure out when it is time for a tune up
- Original Message -
From: Hendrik
On 26-Apr-06, at 10:01 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Like the W126, NOT like the W123. Panel must be shoved UP after
armrest top screw is removed, along with window switch and trim, plus
door latch bucket. Ashtray must come out, too. DO NOT pry inward,
you'll need a new panel, it's held onto
OK, now for the dumb question: How do you measure boost pressure?
...especially under full load at 2000-5000 RPM?
You tee a pressure gauge, such as the should-be-ubiquitous modern
pressure/vacuum MityVac, into the line from the intake manifold that
(eventually) goes to the ALDA. Put the gauge
OK Don wrote:
I first ran into the balance shaft in my '74 Sonett (Saab) with the
V-4 (Ford forklift engine). I don't imagine that the fiberglass body
would have lasted long without the balance shaft!
I once saw, in an aircraft application, a 1-cylinder engine with a large
*external*
Hello everyone!
The first question has to do with the intake manifold, and boy is the inside
D-I-R-T-Y! Is there any way short of removal to get this crud out of
there?
My second problem has to do with valve adjustment. I'm having a VERYYY hard
time adjusting the last exhaust valve.
Well, I just compared them as best I could, as it seems like what I read on
this list is that almost any Mercedes of any vintage is better than almost
any other car.
I don't doubt the age has a lot to do with it. Though both cars have a lot
of mileage. The Sube has 220K miles on it... (i.e. a
No, I agree, it's not a fair comparison. Just my observations when I feel
like all I hear is that oh, we don't need anything other than RWD, it gets
through anything.
Heck, I'm still hearing it now... I'd love to drive a 300D and a good fwd
car both with Blizzaks on and see how they compare. Or
No doubt, the 300D would be better newer. I'd love to try one that I knew
had proper suspension and steering to see if my butt thinks it's as good
as I hear it is.
However, as to the maintenance (again, hard to quantify since the Benz is
older, and there are unknown maintenance periods on both
Yesterday my wife came home in her 300CDT and the window on the driver's
side would not go up.
I have the inner panel off and electrically everything is fine to the motor.
Does anyone know if there is an internal limit switch in the motor. The coil
of the window motor reads continuity but will
On Apr 26, 2006, at 8:29 PM, Joe Knight wrote:
Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'm thinking I'll
mix up some fairly soupy epoxy
I have removed switch blanks in order to install switches where none
existed. They were made of black plastic with tabs on the ends,
removed and
On Apr 26, 2006, at 8:30 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:
OK, now for the dumb question: How do you measure boost
pressure? ...especially under full load at 2000-5000 RPM?
Thanks,
Chris
Tee into the line that signals the ALDA and run a hose and gauge
into the cabin where you can read
Did you make some bent wrenches?
--R
kevin kraly wrote:
Hello everyone!
The first question has to do with the intake manifold, and boy is the inside
D-I-R-T-Y! Is there any way short of removal to get this crud out of
there?
My second problem has to do with valve adjustment. I'm
Joe,
Go to the pick-n-pull, find a car with a console piece like yours and
you will see that there are blanks to fill in the holes not being
used. Please don't ruin a nice bezel. The blanks pop out of the bezel
with a minimum of effort.
Mathieu
On Apr 26, 2006, at 8:29 PM, Joe Knight
I have removed switch blanks in order to install switches where none
existed. They were made of black plastic with tabs on the ends,
removed and installed by flexing.
Johnny B.
_
Unfortunately the opening for the temp wheel is a little different
size shape than those intended for
Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one
from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the
metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was
able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force.
The same can't be said
Apparently the same as the W201. I learned this lesson the hard way. I have
made a fairly servicable clip out of nails and shoegoo. Does that earn me some
sort of Jim Cathey in training award? :)
-Curt
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 21:51:18 -0600
From: Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Kevin,
I bent a pair of 14mm for the valve adjustments and have adequate room
for #5 cyl (firewall). There are very short wrenches available (Sears
has set 10-14mm) so that may help. Good luck.
Neal
Rich Thomas wrote:
Did you make some bent wrenches?
--R
kevin kraly wrote:
Hello
The label on the plastic bag the part came in has the p/n I ordered,
123 683 31 08. Finally occurred to me to do the obvious check the
part itself. On the back it's clearly indicated that I was sent the
wrong part, 123 683 38 08. D'oh!!
Fortunately the correct part appears to be available in
this is a good car for you, don. the powertrain is as over-engineered as
any ever made and certainly beyond anything that chrysler benz is capable of
producing today in terms of longevity and reliabilty.
these cars are very well appointed. they are very much old persons cars,
but really are
How about a nice 85 300D, I am fixing to sell one.
LT Don wrote:
Actually, I am looking for a replacement for the Sunbird.
On 4/26/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
oh geez, looking for a replacement for the saturn?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
Do you have the factory adjusting wrenches?
kevin kraly wrote:
Hello everyone!
The first question has to do with the intake manifold, and boy is the inside
D-I-R-T-Y! Is there any way short of removal to get this crud out of
there?
My second problem has to do with valve adjustment.
you see a lot of the impalas here in georgia. originally, the cops were
very negative on them, but they seem to have gotten used to them here
it's really not a bad car. not sure that the old view of cop/taxi cars
having to be full size and body on frame is particularly valid
On 4/26/06,
if i wanted a $100 auction parts car from todd, i'd get it from todd
On 4/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How about a nice 85 300D, I am fixing to sell one.
LT Don wrote:
Actually, I am looking for a replacement for the Sunbird.
On 4/26/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL
Kevin,
I actually have two set of bent wrenches for the job you are doing. One is
the standard length the other are the shorter ones for the Unimog - I never
be buying a mog I have used them I one of the cars - they are Stahlwille
#12972 brand would sell them at a fair price.
Inlet manifold, I
Bingo!
That's 3 outta 8 I can say today
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 21:09:31 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
you must have been watching Boston Legal, the best TV show on right now.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Stop the gibber jabber!
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 11:56:57 -0500, Luther
My bypass hose leaks a little, nothing dreadful mind you. Yes I have tightened
the clamps so I have decided to replace it. I ordered and received new radiator
hoses Upper, lower and bypass (what a pathetically small hose to start all this
..), a thermostat and the o-rings - gasket, fan clutch,
haha, think he wants his daughter driving a faster benz than he is? It
bugs him enough when he's around 126 fest at OkieQ.
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:15:00 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
How about a nice 85 300D, I am fixing to sell one.
LT Don wrote:
Actually, I am
So which of the three of you initiated the secret Mercedes owners'
handshake?
On 4/26/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It was like a little W123 convention when I stopped for fuel in Renton,
today. I pulled up and there was a 300D and a 240D already at the pump.
Little moments of
Diesel vehicles in U.S. increase 80% over 5 years
The number of diesel vehicles on U.S. roads rose 80 percent between 2000 and
2005, according to data released yesterday by advocacy group Diesel
Technology Forum.
There were 543,777 new diesel vehicles registered last year, up from 301,471
in
Chuck is correct, but you neglected to mention whether the window was
attempting to rise or was totally dead. If it's bumping and then falling
back down, the regulator teeth or a toogh thereof, are/is broken. Otherwise,
it could be a bad motor or switch.
On 4/27/06, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL
Kevin,
It sounds like you are trying to mount the clutch to the water pump,
then attach the fan blade separately? That would be awfully hard, if
not impossible. The blade and clutch should stay attached. You install
the water pump by itself, then drop the clutch+fan down the front and
bolt it on
Is that anything like the M100 owner's handshake?
Sunil Hari
-Original Message-
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subj: Re: [MBZ] They're everywhere!
Date: Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:46 pm
Size: 968 bytes
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
So which of the three of you
Peter Frederick wrote:
Do not exceed 13 psi, higher pressures will significantly reduce engine
life. Often need a new wastegate control spring by now, they gradually
shrink from usage and will often have only 7 or 8 psi pressure
developing. That makes for sluggish performance and low milage.
George Larribeau wrote:
Are there any tricks to refilling it with coolant air bubbles and the like?
I've always heard that the best way is to fill it through the top
radiator hose. The idea is to minimize the amount of air in the head.
What kind of water would one mix with the MB
andrew strasfogel wrote:
So which of the three of you initiated the secret Mercedes owners'
handshake?
No handshake, but we thoroughly ogled each others' cars. The 240D was
the first Mercedes I've seen that was even rustier than mine -- it had
holes in the front fenders big enough to
I was cleaning under the hood of my 84 300SD today and found a three lead
wire that ends in an oval female connection behind the drivers side
headlight next to the preglow timing relay. It starts at a contact (looks
like a magnetic pickup) next to the timing mark. I can see no connection
Just wanted to confirm that it's okay, and recommended to let the oil
level remain at half-way between the two indents (a pint low, I
believe). I mean even if I'm running it hard - 90 mph on the highway,
etc. 83 240D
Brian
Another question: in my 83 240D, I notice that when I shift to second
and let out the clutch expediently (not dumping it though) I feel this
forward and rearword sort of bouncing of the vehicle - sort of feels
like some big pickups do that tend to have frame-bounce, only this is
fore and aft. It's
That is the recommended oil level. Between the Add mark and half-way
above it. It should be 1 qt low when at the add mark.
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 12:54:25 -0500, Zoltan Finks
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Just wanted to confirm that it's okay, and recommended to let the oil
level remain at
Levi Smith wrote:
As to the seats, I can't possibly see how even if the seats were
brand new they would have any more side support. There's just nothing
there. It's like a flat bench seat on the bottom.
I think the target audience for these cars is the rich gentleman
suffering from a bit of
Dan,
I tend to agree with Chuck re the regulator versus the motor. That said,
the lube in the motor gearset does dry out over time, and bearings do go
dry. Pull the motor and see if it runs. But first, try another 12V source
to run the motor with, preferably one that doesn't get bent in a door
Luther Gulseth wrote:
That is the recommended oil level. Between the Add mark and half-way
above it. It should be 1 qt low when at the add mark.
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 12:54:25 -0500, Zoltan Finks
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Just wanted to confirm that it's okay, and recommended to let
I see 4BT engines on eBay for 3K or so, just a matter of fabbing engine mounts
and adapter plates. :) I know a friend of mine who watches forklift auctions
because he is looking for a special Mazda engine that can be built to insane
levels because of the thickness of the castings.
In one
It does look pretty rough but I should be able to see it on Saturday since he
traveling to WV to see his father and I am not too far away. If it doesn't
feel or look right then I can walk away from the deal, but I hope that this
works out.
Todd Smith '85 300CD 248K
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yeah, it would be nice if there were some other plug and play option for
seats I could find at the junkyard. If mine actually break a spring, I'm
pretty sure I'll be heading to the junkyard to see what I can find that I'll
just try to bolt in one way or the other.
I like that fine adjustment
You must get the engine rpm closer to the tranny rpm when shifing. MB
diesels are notorious for bouncing neophyte drivers faces off the
steering wheel!
Slower clutch engagement or a bit more right foot will take care of the
problem.
I would, however, check (or just replace) the tranny
David Brodbeck wrote:
George Larribeau wrote:
Are there any tricks to refilling it with coolant air bubbles and the like?
I've always heard that the best way is to fill it through the top
radiator hose. The idea is to minimize the amount of air in the head.
What kind of water would one
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Not a desperately important question, I know, just wondering if anyone
has experienced this, and if it indicates something worn out (like
tranny mount)? It's seems to be a general bouncing of the drivetrain
or frame that works its way through for 2 or 3 seconds.
Try
Reminds me of my wagon, rust everywhere. Holes in the floor, holes in the
rockers, holes around the windows. Pristine interior, pristine dash.
Shoulda kept the seats outta that one... Might have looked goofy in my 240D
(tan in the 240D, blue in the wagon) but they were so comfy.
-Curt
Thanks. I sort of figured after I sent the question that it would be assumed
that less-than-optimal shifting was the culprit. I'm not sure that's the
case though - it just feels like there isn't sufficient rigidity in the
drivetrain to accept what (I think, at least) is an acceptably smooth and
Ah. Very good. Curious, though: Recommended by whom? Certainly not Mercedes?
Brian
83 240D
On 4/27/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
That is the recommended oil level. Between the Add mark and half-way
above it. It should be 1 qt low when at the add mark.
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Another question: in my 83 240D, I notice that when I shift to second
and let out the clutch expediently (not dumping it though) I feel this
forward and rearword sort of bouncing of the vehicle - sort of feels
like some big pickups do that tend to have frame-bounce, only this
In preparing for the inevitable death of my Dakota I've been researching
pickups and find that its tough to get even what I'd consider reasonable
mileage.
Everybody says the EPA estimates are low. I find that odd because I seem to
always do better. My Dakota averages around 18mpg, the EPA
Let me state it another way:
On my 617 engines -
The range of the dipstick - from min to max is 2 quarts.
And the nominal crankcase fill capacity is at approximately half way between
min and max on the dipstick.
With my 606 engines it seems like the dipstick shows topped off when I put
the
WDBGA43E8SA217138
95 S420
Thanks in advance
Tarek
Did you make some bent wrenches?
I bought some, but they seem to be too long. I think I'm going to hook up
with Dennis T to try out the short wrenches. Even an inch or so would make
ALL the difference in the world on the #5 cyl valves!
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
Giesela, 1981 300CD 204K
What would you sell your stahlwille wrenches for? My wrenches should work
well for someone, so they'll be up for sale. Any takers? They were $87
new, used only once, so make me a good offer.
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
Giesela, 1981 300CD 204K miles
I have attached an interesting 35 KB picture of someone fueling up at the =
truck stop . Not sure if it will go through.
Mike
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Kevin,
I was thinking less than half of that.
Send you telephone number and I'll call you. I'll have to measure the
difference between the 2 sets.
Dennis T.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of kevin kraly
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006
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