Ah!
So the question remains (in my mind anyway) can vehicles other than the new
clean diesels run on Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel? In othe words, when ULSD is
the only diesel available, how will vehicles fare that were not made
specifically to run ULSD? Most notably, how will my 83 240D handle it?
because of this goofy mix (forced by successful lobbying, mostly of the
US
Trucking industry,) some manufacturers of the new Clean Diesel technology
already in use in Europe and elsewhere are loathe to bring their offerings
to
the US until the risk of putting the 'wrong' fuel in the tank
Kaleb - If none of the listers are in banking and can answer for you I have
a sister who is in commercial banking. My bet would be that she could
answer most any question you have. Let me know and I'll put you in touch.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL
(allegedly,) yes.
in theory (and marketing), the new ULSD *should* work in any diesel.
let's hope so, because in a few years, that's the only kind of #2
(petro) that's going to be available!
cheers!
e
'85 300D (36K miles on B99/100)
burning the bean in Berkeley,...
Ah!
So the
Thanks Peter,
Your evaluation sure makes sense - now, if I can find the Idle Control
Valve ;-) Hopefully the pages I printed from the WSM will lead me to it.
Thanks!!
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results
Larry:
It's under the air filter housing up front, about half the size of a
coke can, two wire connecter on the fore end and two large rubber hoses
on the aft.
Hoses are likely rock hard leaking. If the one from under the air flow
meter horn (what the air filter housing goes on) pulls out
Here's the deal.
BEFORE THE CHECK YOU WRITE IS CASHED, YOU MUST HAVE THE MONEY IN YOUR
ACCOUNT.
_
Frank Pembleton other half of 15 year bank manager; former transporter of
checks via the Federal Reserve Intermodal Transportation System
Manchester, MO
KLEB FOR PREZ!!
This sounds like you're talking about CIS injection system parts, not
Diesel injector seals, and probably seals for the injector
holders.. Am I wrong, or are the systems very similar in the 60x
engines now?
On 10/31/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Larry:
It's under the air
On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 10:36:29 -0600 Stephen D Murrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I think the pitman arm shaft has 1 larger spline to only go on 1 way;
i have changed gearboxes by myself;(not fun) put at least 1 mounting
bolt thru use long ext. bar with socket, lift st. box up with left
hand
I spent two years doing internal-customer computer support for Barnett Bank
out of a cubicle in Jacksonville FL. Does that count?
On 10/31/06, Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Anybody here in the banking business or know about it? If so, email me
offlist ([EMAIL
On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 18:33:37 -0500 Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does anyone know if Mercedes ever made a transmission with a lock up
torque converter that will bolt up to a 117 engine in a W126? A friend
I think you mean 617, a 5-cylinder diesel engine.
of mine asked what could be done
That would do it, though I'd sell the 560SEL and buy a 300SDL. (making
a couple of big assumptions here).
On 10/31/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A friend
I think you mean 617, a 5-cylinder diesel engine.
of mine asked what could be done to a W126 to get better fuel mileage,
I'm quoting part of an email from the BioDiesel list, since it's on
the same topic ---
OK Don wrote:
I'm going on the assumption that my MB eingines will be just fine with ULSD
until I either start producing bioD or can buy it locally.
Dan Holden, AKA Dr. BioDiesel wrote:
Don, Sweden, Finland
This ULSD is giving me déjà vu all over again-reminds me of when leaded
disappeared and I had to add lead or later substitute to my 50 Dodge
pickup, my 73 Land Rover and my 67 Ford 3/4 ton. I fear that those of
use who now run Low sulfur diesel will be forced to use the ULSD-I am
not convinced
Which company did you buy your equipment from for making biodiesel?
Thanks,
Gerry
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
You can currently buy Biodiesel as a fuel additive at auto parts stores
like
O'Reily's for about $4 per quart ($16/gallon!!!). Or make it yourself,
our
I haven't started yet - but I read the BioDiesel list to learn what I
need to do. Dan Holden makes a lot though -- he's only on the
BioDiesel list, which is why I posted that email here.
On 10/31/06, Archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Which company did you buy your equipment from for making
what is this about these cars supposedly getting 30-50 m.p.g.;
Anything more than 30 is a lie or an exceptional condition.
No exceptions! (Our 190D 2.5 manual will turn in 42 on a highway
trip, or as low as 35 knocking around town.)
-- Jim
Thanks for posting that very informative aritcle. It, along with the
other input, pretty much answers my questions.
So looks like when I run ULSD I should periodically use an additive to
lubricate things (or perhaps every tankful - guess there's another
question).
Or I could just add some B 99
I have read that even B2 will increase the lubricity of dinoD. B5, B10, (ah,
why not...) B100 are much better :)
On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 00:10:50 -0600, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks for posting that very informative aritcle. It, along with the
other input, pretty much answers
B100 will be frozen solid at 15 F.
Peter
peter,
it's difficult to make a blanket statement like that; you need to
qualify what kind of stock the BioD you're talking about is made from.
not all B100 will be frozen at the same temps, and some will be frozen
solid at temps *much* warmer than 15F.
a quick reference (from a site i don't
LT Don wrote:
I spent two years doing internal-customer computer support for Barnett Bank
out of a cubicle in Jacksonville FL. Does that count?
I worked for a bank a few years, but that was before Check 21 came
along. Check 21 totally changed check processing. They don't send
actual
some European countries have a few percent of BioD in *all* #2 sold at the
pumps, in part just for this very reason.
if you're concerned about lubricity of ULSD (which i wouldn't be with
our cars), buy a carboy container or 2 to bring home some BioD in. throw in
a gallon before you go to fill
Don,
try picking up this Guide Book; i know the lady that wrote it, and
she's very knowledgeable on the topic and has been very deeply involved
in all aspects of BioDiesel for many years already.
http://www.localb100.com/book.html
cheers!
e
OK Don wrote:
I haven't started yet - but I
Hi Craig;
Hi; yes i forgot to say center the wheel; put pitman arm in general
direction; then stab Rectangle of flex joint on male rect. shaft of
steering column; i have never used the centering bolt as i never removed
the multi splined end of flex joint from gearbox; if multi spline end
removed
Here are some answers to questions about ULSD:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/diesel/ulsd.shtml#A18
More answers here:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=enq=low+sulphur+diesel+ppm
Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Trampas wrote:
Does anyone know if Mercedes ever made a transmission with a lock up torque
converter that will bolt up to a 117 engine in a W126? A friend of mine
asked what could be done to a W126 to get better fuel mileage, so my first
thoughts were lock up converter and an electric fan,
I'm thinking about buying a 34' motorhome with the following
engine/transmission:
Cummins B5.9 230HP @ 2500 RPM, 605 FT. Lb Torque @ 1700 RPM
Turbo Charged Diesel with Allison 6 speed
I seem to remember a discussion about a computer module being mounted on top
of a Cummins engine where engine
First off this is for a 420SEL. I figured the 560SEL I have is low mileage
and runs great. The 420SEL is the daily commuter and has a new(used) head.
Thus I was debating on if I could get the mileage up around 25MPG from
19MPG. Of course the easiest thing would be to get a 300SDL.
Trampas
Thanks Peter,
I'll take a look - so far I have not found any of the hoses to be hard
with age. The PO had many hoses in the engine compartment replaced not long
before I bought it. He was chasing a problem I solved with long-distance
driving. So, I may still have a loose hose - I could
If you want good mileage above all else, get a diesel Jetta. You will
get close to 50 mpg highway. It's not a Mercedes, however...
-Dave Walton
On 11/1/06, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
First off this is for a 420SEL. I figured the 560SEL I have is low mileage
and runs great. The 420SEL is
archer wrote:
I'm thinking about buying a 34' motorhome with the following
engine/transmission:
Cummins B5.9 230HP @ 2500 RPM, 605 FT. Lb Torque @ 1700 RPM
Turbo Charged Diesel with Allison 6 speed
I seem to remember a discussion about a computer module being mounted on top
of a
- Original Message -
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cummins B5.9 230HP engine
archer wrote:
I'm thinking about buying a 34' motorhome with the following
Well, I just pulled the steering wheel and adjusted it. That was WAY easy.
Am I mistaken in thinking that if the pitman arm lines up with the tie rods,
then it would have to be where it should relative to the gearbox?
Man, it seems like this stuff should be really simple, but there seems to be
archer wrote:
I'll keep your inline pump in mind if I find a good deal on
a M/H with the Cummins rotary pump.
There's nothing really wrong with the V-pump, it lives about 150-200kmi
in a pickup. Don't know if it would die in x years and low miles in a
MH. When one dies, it is usually a good
I'm told it's in California somewhere, but where I do not know.
Tim
1982 300TD Moby (for sale)
1991 300TE 4Matic Beulah
--
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 09:20:09 -0500
Where is this place? I want to see if I can work it in to my driving
tour of National Parks
From what I've gathered the old Benz's shouldn't have much trouble since our
IP's aren't lubricated by the fuel. but those engines that do have fuel
lubricated IP's are more likely to start seeing problems without additives
(seems like the fuel companies or stations would do this to avoid
Well I have been debating for awhile on getting a newer vehicle. However I
had to take a trip for work, which was 8 hours in a car with some coworkers.
So we took a relatively new Acura that one of my coworkers own. After
getting back I realized I would have paid to driven a W126.
Thus I guess I
Ok, you guys have got me a bit paranoid about overtightening the steering
box and after having changed it, I DON'T want to do it again. (Is there any
potential rebuilding I could do on the old one?)
So, I'm going to ask a simple question:
If I rotate the input shaft from the steering wheel back
For pure comfort, you can't beat a W140. Expensive to maintain, however.
The amount of rear leg room in the SDL is unsurpassed.
I test drove a diesel Jetta and a diesel Passat, and then decided to
buy my first used Mercedes.
-Dave Walton
87SDL, 94S350, 99E300
On 11/1/06, Trampas [EMAIL
I seem to remember a discussion about a computer module being mounted
on top
of a Cummins engine where engine heat damaged it.
Not there in my pickup. Mine (wherever it is) controls the glow plugs
and the alternator, and that's about it. (I have the P7100.)
Any advice, comments, or
Levi,
I am not sure about the W123 but the W126 steering box has to be set
correctly. The W126 steering box is designed such that when the car is going
straight ahead it is slightly harder to turn the steering wheel. Then after
you turn steering wheel a few degrees it gets easier. This makes the
archer wrote:
I'll keep your inline pump in mind if I find a good deal on
a M/H with the Cummins rotary pump.
There's nothing really wrong with the V-pump, it lives about 150-200kmi
in a pickup. Don't know if it would die in x years and low miles in a
MH. When one dies, it is usually a good
I seem to remember a discussion about a computer module being mounted
on top
of a Cummins engine where engine heat damaged it.
Not there in my pickup. Mine (wherever it is) controls the glow plugs
and the alternator, and that's about it. (I have the P7100.)
Any advice, comments, or
You know Girl Mark? Me too, I got to drive her around StLouis for a while
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car
Quoting ernest breakfield [EMAIL
Hmm, I've never noticed it feeling like it's hard to turn anywhere else in
the rotation, but otherwise I wouldn't be surprised by anything else you're
saying.
I wish I knew if there was someplace near Corning, NY that actually knew how
to handle these cars, or at leas just the
It is hard to beat an SDL for road trips. I don't think there is a japanese
car around that can come close. Remember, Japan is a series of islands,
like Hawaii. Even on the Big Island of Hawaii, in 5 1/2 hours, you can
drive on every mile of road available.
At 07:59 AM 11/1/2006, you wrote:
Well your best bet is to print out instructions from manual and then help
train your mechanic. I personally gave up on local shops and take my car to
stealership for alignments. Pretty much everything else I do myself.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL
I guess I need to start looking. The body on my 420SEL is in great shape no
rust or anything so maybe I will find a donor for a diesel. I finally found
the donor for the heated seats.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
In a message dated 11/1/2006 7:53:51 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The problem that I have had is most alignment shops do not know how to align
the W126s as a result they try to lock steering wheel pointing straight and
then do an alignment. This will usually
Jim,
Thanks for the valuable information. It all seems to make sense.
Just seems like a HUGE PITA to get these things set up correctly!
I'm trying to decide between:
-Leaving it as is and just driving the thing like I have been. Not a huge
deal. Just bugs me that it's not right.
-Paying
Ok, I've paid some attention, but not enough apparently to various models.
I'm considering Mike Canfield's 300SD. It seems this 83' 300SD is a 126 as
opposed to my 83' 300D which is a 123.
So...
What exactly would the difference(s) be? So far all I can see is that it
looks like it has the
That's about 25mm of play according to the manual (about 1). 40mm is too much!
I cobbled together the correct tools to be able to adjust the box
according to the manual on my dearly departed W123. Wasn't too hard. A
piece of bar stock long enough to straddle the steering wheel, two
Ubolts to
Thanks Gary! That's the sort of here's how a normal person can do it
instructions I like to see!
Though your last comment of the standard looseness of the steering on a 123
kinda makes me think I'll just leave it because I'm never going to be happy
with it. Especially if I were to take the
snip If the centering screw is NOT used, the alignment will be a
failure.
snip Also, removing the steering wheel is a bad idea, unless you are
fixing
someone else's FUBAR.
Great post Jim, if you would've USED more CAPS, it would've SEEMED to come
from Marshall.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
The SD is an S-class (duh) which gets you a slightly bigger car. AFAIK, same
engine, same or similar transmission, similar option packages. I think you
could get headlight washers and different leather on the SD than the D.
On 11/1/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ok, I've paid some
I wish I knew if there was someplace near Corning, NY that actually knew how
to handle these cars, or at leas just the steering/alignment. I couldn't
get my mechanic to figure out how to tighten the steering box even when I
told him how so I have doubts about other places... The nearest Benz
'83 126 has Same engine/tranny, more rear seat leg room, leather
interior, 8 way
power adjustable drivers/passenger front seats, and a MUCH better
highway ride.
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) needs
Ahhh, the dfferences are many and varied. The S class is a much better
drive. Quieter and more relaxed, especially on the highway!
Between the two, I'd take the S any day! No comparison!! I've had both and
the 123 is not in the same league as the 126. (Obviously)
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
Good point. I'll ask this question and I'll bear in mind that it isn't
possible for anyone to say with complete certainty and accuracy - just
asking for opinions here:
Let's say the claim is true that B100 will be frozen solid at 15 degrees F.
And let's say I put a couple gallons of B100 in my
Ernest, what's a carboy container?
Brian
Ernest wrote:
if you're concerned about lubricity of ULSD (which i wouldn't be with
our cars), buy a carboy container or 2 to bring home some BioD in.
I think that's one of those things you'd want to try in a separate container
first.
My thoughts are that it's going to depend on how well it's mixed. (did you
just dump in two gallons of B100 after an almost full tank of diesel? Or
did you mix everything to gether well first and then dump it
Levi; i am wondering the same thing?; are all steering boxes worn or all
have play in them; remember to turn allen adj. COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO
REMOVE PLAY; my M.B. ills. parts breakdown shows the gears meshed the
other way!!; it is printed WRONG!!!; wider part of gears are on
bottom, so
I hear ya on the variables regarding quality of fuel.
I would think, though, that the mixing issue would be sort of moot, as it
seems to me that the fuel will get pretty well mixed up in there as you
drove, and as the fuel gets added to the tank. Or do Bio and Dino not tend
to mix well - an oil
In a message dated 11/1/2006 9:22:12 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
That's about 25mm of play according to the manual (about 1). 40mm is too
much
Sorry, my brain farted. I was thinking 25mm X 0.040= 1, which is roughly
correct, and I wrote 40mm
Regards,
I found it pretty easy to tell which way to go with the adjuster on my old
box. If I screwed it down in I had about 6-8 inches of play in the wheel.
Screwed all the way out I had 1-2 inches of play. (:
Levi
On 11/1/06, Stephen D Murrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi; i am wondering the same
I think they will mix to some degree as you drive, but I don't know that
they would mix as well as if you mixed the ratios outside the car. It seems
like I've heard people mention that before that were into blending...
I think they mix well enough together, but depending on how cold it gets I
In a message dated 11/1/2006 9:30:04 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Great post Jim, if you would've USED more CAPS, it would've SEEMED to come
from Marshall.
Thanks, Rick,
I am SURE some of my material came from Marshall's posts on the subject.
Jim in
a sort of jug; generally seen around Biodiesel circles in 5 Gal
varieties.
http://www.metacrawler.com/info.metac/search/web/carboy/1/-/1/-/-/-/1/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/417/top/-/-/-/1
as for mixing, BioD splash mixes with #2
Spoke with a co-worker yesterday about his '79 Euro-spec W107. It has A/C,
but manual climate controls. He says his driver side heat is always on,
which I thought was a standard default for a failed mono-valve, but I don't
know if the manuals come with those. The local indie quoted him ~$600
Turning the input shaft will not make a difference. The adjustment is on the
output shaft and loosening the screw makes it tighter. If you over tighten
the box then when you drive and release steering wheel it will not return to
center, also it wears box more quickly.
Trampas
-Original
the manual valves are i think the same as in the 123 240D and others. I
have never worked on those, so I can't help any further.
At 12:04 PM 11/1/2006, you wrote:
Spoke with a co-worker yesterday about his '79 Euro-spec W107. It has A/C,
but manual climate controls. He says his driver side
Aaak. Something else to think about. As you alluded to - even if Bio
and Dino are mixed well, will they stay mixed, or will cold temps.
cause them to separate?
Brian
83 240D
Levi wrote:
I think they mix well enough together, but depending on how cold it gets I
wonder if they will stay together
Jim, that's the type of concise answer I was seeking before I
purchased my 83 240D, but didn't get. I too get irritated at claims of
40 some MPG in W123s.
Anything more than 30 is a lie or an exceptional condition.
No exceptions!
(snip)
And I (Brian) would also add that:
Curt, the
could be that the cable is broken between the lever and the valve.
On 11/1/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
the manual valves are i think the same as in the 123 240D and others. I
have never worked on those, so I can't help any further.
At 12:04 PM 11/1/2006, you wrote:
Spoke with a
given the variabilities based on the base stock used, the process used, and
the temps where you're at, the only way to know for sure would be to test it
yourself,... but i've never seen anything to lead me to believe that there's
any separation issues.
cheers!
e
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Aaak.
So, you're saying this vehicle doesn't have a mono-valve, then?
On 11/1/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
could be that the cable is broken between the lever and the valve.
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane
I think I found a fixed rod bender. The message below seems to
indicate the engine is good and the car might be of interest to the
list
Begin forwarded message:
From: craig gottschalk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: November 1, 2006 12:44:37 PM PST
To: Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
If you even have to ask its time to get scientific about it...
Get some biodiesel in a can, get some petro diesel in a can. Get 'em cold and
see what happens.
Then mix and cool and test.
The ONLY way you'll know for sure is to test it...
-Curt
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 11:19:20 -0600
From:
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