Re: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph

[John Peterson]

Agreed.

- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph



It could have been a deadly accident.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph


I think the service managers are pushing the mechanics so hard to do 3x 
the

normal work in the same time- the result is, of course, human error.  It
could have been a costly accident.

John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5 78k

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.net 


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Re: [MBZ] 190D Phase 2 and 3 completed

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Curt-way to go. Fixing the seat in my 240D was the best investment I
ever made. I spend about 6-12 hours a week in that seat and wish I had
fixed it when I got the car t instead of doing the spring padding, etc.
Were any of those keys steel keys? Can't wait to see it at the ChowdahQ.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI



Took the seat apart, took the upholstry off, then put it on the new seat
base and pad.
   
  The Mercedes Source book I bought is useless for a 201 seat,
particularly an electric seat... Might be good for a manual 115, 116 or
123.  Anybody want it? I paid $12, I'll let it go for $7 shipping
included.
   
  The electric seat appears to be alot easier to take apart, there are
only 2 screws but you MUST move the seat back to get to them if you ran
the seat forward (so you could get to the rear bolts). The book say
(paraphrasing here)"Oh just play with the wires until you find the right
ones" Fortunately I have my 110ah Marine battery in the house. The
small motorcycle starting battery I also keep in the house wasn't up to
the effort...
   
  Onward!
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D "Dory" 235kmi - New driver's seat half done!


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Re: [MBZ] Uh Oh -- Little Bearings?

[ned kleinhenz]

Sunil:
You asked "how likely/frequent is this failure on an OM602 engine, say in a
92 300D
with 287Kmi?"

I don't know the exact probability.  But the pump pictured on Rusty's web
site for the 602 engine looks almost identical to the one for the 606
engine.  Uless someone can give you a more enlightened answer, I'd recommend
investing $300 in a new as insurance.
Ned Kleinhenz

Re: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph

[Hendrik Riessen]

It could have been a deadly accident.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph


I think the service managers are pushing the mechanics so hard to do 3x 
the

normal work in the same time- the result is, of course, human error.  It
could have been a costly accident.

John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5 78k

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.net 

Re: [MBZ] Bird in Star

[Hendrik Riessen]

I thought you where referring to the plane with it's nose in the Merc truck 
until I scrolled down further.
I like the one where the couple on the bike are pulled over, the moral of 
the storyalways carry a spare helmet:-)


Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Bird in Star



It had to happen sometime ---

Source:
http://www.ezprezzo.com/crazypics/bummers.html

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph

[Richard Murdoch]

John,
The loose lugs could be attributed to simple negligence, bad work habits, being 
distracted and what else.  But the used rim - I call that fraud.

Considering what could have happened they ought to buy your sister off with the 
deal of a lifetime on a new car (which she could have serviced elsewhere).

But then one of the things my wife came to hate after being in real estate for 
many years was the "never admit guilt" directive.

Richard Murdoch
> 
> From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2006/03/18 Sat PM 05:21:47 EST
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph
> 
> My younger sister has a 2000 Volvo which she brought in for service at the 
> Volvo dealership.  They told her she needed a new rim, so she said "okay" 
> and paid up the $400 to put it on and balance (existing tire)
> 
> They let her leave.  Down the road she hears a dragging sound and brings the 
> car back.  She brings it in and they said "oh, we forgot to put your sway 
> bar on"  DUH
> 
> But the story gets better.  They put the sway bar on and she went on the 
> highway.  The car did a nose dive and she went off the road.  She watched 
> her wheel roll down the highway lane.
> 
> State cops come, tow the car back to the Volvo dealership (not too bright) 
> and they say "You must have had an accident, it wasn't the wheel's fault."
> 
> So the insurance company says they'll pay for the wheel and they will sue 
> the dealership (so my sister doesn't have to.)  THEY hire an investigator 
> who notices that not only were the lug nuts not tightened but IT WAS A USED, 
> DEFECTIVE WHEEL.  Now remember, she had paid $400 for a "New Volvo Wheel."
> 
> So for those of you that remember my transmission overfill story from last 
> year- combine that with this and MAKE SURE you check EVERYTHING before 
> leaving any dealership!!
> 
> I think the service managers are pushing the mechanics so hard to do 3x the 
> normal work in the same time- the result is, of course, human error.  It 
> could have been a costly accident.
> 
> John Peterson
> Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5 78k
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
> 
> 
> > I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
> > rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
> > since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
> > only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.
> >
> > Dwight Giles, Jr
> > 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
> > 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
> > Wickford, RI
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
> > Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
> > To: mercedes
> > Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
> >
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682
> > &rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
> >
> > Any idea what it should go for?
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
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> >
> >
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> > 
> 
> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] return line from air filter

[Richard Murdoch]

This seems so much like something I should have known ages ago that I wondered 
if I should register under a pseudonym before asking.

I'm trying to take care of some of the oil leaks on our 82 300TDt while I'm 
finishing the new oil cooler lines and motor mounts.

A piece of the tube (return line (?)) that attaches to the bottom of the air 
filter housing had disintergrated and I managed to patch it with hose and 
clamps that held for a long time.  Since I had never taken it off I am not sure 
how it should go on.  

Should there be some type of hose or gromet to hold it to the air filter 
housing?  And at the bottom?
Even on the parts car there is nothing where the tube is supposed to attach to 
the housing and the pan.

When I patched it I also put a piece of hose over the top end and clamped it to 
the filter housing.

That seemed to do the job for a long time but I would like to get it right.

I don't know if this is a source of a lot of oil that has recently accumlated 
on that side of the engine or not.

Richard Murdoch
82 300TDt
82 240D

[MBZ] Bird in Star

[OK Don]

It had to happen sometime ---

Source:
http://www.ezprezzo.com/crazypics/bummers.html

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[John Peterson]

Method worked perfectly.  I used only my clean, paranoid fingers to check 
the level.  It was half way between the marks - just fine.


Thanks to all.


- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



Tom Hargrave wrote:

Possibly because the 2.5 turbo is the best diesel Mercedes ever made.


The 602.96 engine was about the most powerful (re displacement) of the
mechanical injection diesel engines while still remaining just plain
reliable. No serious flaws. I don't like the EGR control system (used in
the '90s) and all 124s have the problem of having to remove the entire
dash, steering wheel and console to replace the AC evaporator and the
outrageously expensive Nippondenso compressor, but the '90-'93 124.128
300D 2.5s are really VERY refined cars. Many of the things that were
introduced in '94 to the 124 E300D (like the biodegradable wiring
harness, the tuned resonance air intake system, the complex afterstart
glow system, etc.) detracted from long term reliability and made repair
more complex than it should have been.

All of that said, I still prefer driving my '87 300TD with it's OM603.96
engine on the highway and while many, many fewer than half of the
OM603.96 engines developed cracked heads - but that potential problem IS
still real. That extra 25 hp really makes a difference even in a car
that weights 660 lb more than my 190D 2.5t. The difference between the
weight of an '87 300D and a '90s 300D 2.5 is MUCH smaller so the 300D
with the 6 cylinder engine is a ROCKET by comparison.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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[MBZ] Wheel Fell off Sister's Car at 60mph

[John Peterson]

My younger sister has a 2000 Volvo which she brought in for service at the 
Volvo dealership.  They told her she needed a new rim, so she said "okay" 
and paid up the $400 to put it on and balance (existing tire)


They let her leave.  Down the road she hears a dragging sound and brings the 
car back.  She brings it in and they said "oh, we forgot to put your sway 
bar on"  DUH


But the story gets better.  They put the sway bar on and she went on the 
highway.  The car did a nose dive and she went off the road.  She watched 
her wheel roll down the highway lane.


State cops come, tow the car back to the Volvo dealership (not too bright) 
and they say "You must have had an accident, it wasn't the wheel's fault."


So the insurance company says they'll pay for the wheel and they will sue 
the dealership (so my sister doesn't have to.)  THEY hire an investigator 
who notices that not only were the lug nuts not tightened but IT WAS A USED, 
DEFECTIVE WHEEL.  Now remember, she had paid $400 for a "New Volvo Wheel."


So for those of you that remember my transmission overfill story from last 
year- combine that with this and MAKE SURE you check EVERYTHING before 
leaving any dealership!!


I think the service managers are pushing the mechanics so hard to do 3x the 
normal work in the same time- the result is, of course, human error.  It 
could have been a costly accident.


John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5 78k

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682
&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[John Peterson]

I am really wanting to drive the 87 TD.  I haven't found anyone with one 
around here yet.  I think the 2.5 is fast.  Anyone have one in RI or MA? 
I'd like to see one.




- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



Tom Hargrave wrote:

Possibly because the 2.5 turbo is the best diesel Mercedes ever made.


The 602.96 engine was about the most powerful (re displacement) of the
mechanical injection diesel engines while still remaining just plain
reliable. No serious flaws. I don't like the EGR control system (used in
the '90s) and all 124s have the problem of having to remove the entire
dash, steering wheel and console to replace the AC evaporator and the
outrageously expensive Nippondenso compressor, but the '90-'93 124.128
300D 2.5s are really VERY refined cars. Many of the things that were
introduced in '94 to the 124 E300D (like the biodegradable wiring
harness, the tuned resonance air intake system, the complex afterstart
glow system, etc.) detracted from long term reliability and made repair
more complex than it should have been.

All of that said, I still prefer driving my '87 300TD with it's OM603.96
engine on the highway and while many, many fewer than half of the
OM603.96 engines developed cracked heads - but that potential problem IS
still real. That extra 25 hp really makes a difference even in a car
that weights 660 lb more than my 190D 2.5t. The difference between the
weight of an '87 300D and a '90s 300D 2.5 is MUCH smaller so the 300D
with the 6 cylinder engine is a ROCKET by comparison.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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[MBZ] Diesel at Sebring

[l02turner]

The new Audi using a Diesel with 650hp and 800+ ft #'s of torque is running 
at Sebring - today, tonight and tomorrow for the 12 hour event.  It's nice 
to see a diesel in the forefront of technology!  Audi has won LeMans, 
Sebring & Daytona numerous times over the past few years so they have little 
to prove when powered by gas engines - but the diesel is all new to them. 
The new technology is providing them with an exceptional powertrain which 
hopefully will have a good showing in the end.


SpeedTV is providing coverage.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] seat repair

[Gerald R. Flintrop]

The smell?  What smell?  If you are talking about the smell I think you 
are talking about, that is a great smell, I love that smell.
--
New ones - yeah, but old, powered ones are sorta reminiscent of DP camps, in
the West Germany of the 1950s.

Re: [MBZ] W126 Rear Subframe Rubber

[Barry Stark]

Pete , Tom -
I haven't changed the mounts out yet on my 126 but when I did that on my
107, and I believe they are much the same, I went to my local McParts with
the "tool borrowing" program and borrowed a 2 claw gear puller to remove the
old mounts.I think I bought a shorter center bolt to push against with the
center puller screw so I wouldn't mess up the threads in the underbody. I
had the same problem using the car weight, and mine eventually found their
way home as well, but later someone on the list said that the problem with
pressing them in using the cars' weight was that the subframe bottomed out
on the underbody before the mount was all the way in. The fix" was to put a
2 X 4 between the mount and subframe then lower the car. This pushed the
mount all the way home. Mow jack it up and remove the wood then lower again
and install the bolt. Haven't had a chance to try that out, but it seems
right. As far as the CDs not working, I just dump all the files from the CD
to an appropriately named folder on the hard drive. Next I find and click on
the "matrix.htm" file. You don't get the cutesy intro but That got old after
the first few times anyway. I think one of my CDs has "matrix6.htm".
Whatever one your CD has run matrix?.htm. Hopefully that will work for you.

Barry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 6:22 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W126 Rear Subframe Rubber


I'm assuming you are talking about the mounts between the subframe and the
body? The two with the large bolts up from the bottom?

My issue was not getting the old ones out, it was getting the new ones in.
It took a while but I walked the old ones out with a large screwdriver. But
even the weight of the car would not seat the new ones. I seated them as far
in as possible & drove the car. They seated themselves in about 2 weeks.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter T. Arnold
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 7:03 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] W126 Rear Subframe Rubber


As soon a I get decent weather, I've got to R&R my sub frame mounts.
This will be a weekend consuming event here due to old age and
infirmities.  I also plan on R&R rear calipers, rotors and diff mount.

My CD is not happy on my new computer (WINXP).  Can some one tell me
what section I need to read, I can do a search given the section.

I understand that I will  have to fabricate a homemade puller with
threaded rod, nuts and washers.  Any one cares to elaborate would be
thankful here.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

Re: [MBZ] Uh-Oh -- Little Bearings?

[Tom Hargrave]

The little bearings fell down into your oil pan and many have been sucked up
against your oil pump pickup.

They'll do no harm there unless there are pieces small enough to be sucked
past the pickup screen. It that's the case then your oil pump is the first
target.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of ned kleinhenz
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 2:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Uh-Oh -- Little Bearings?


I removed the vacuum pump from my '95 E300D, today, to replace it with a new
one from Rusty.
Right away, it was easy to spot why I totally lost all vacuum.  The old pump
was trashed.
I'd post photos, if I could figure out how to.  (Could someone instruct me
off line?)

I remember stories of other 606 engines being ruined by little bearings from
a failed vacuum pump.
So I am reluctant to install the new pump until I feel confident there isn't
the potential for residual damage.

I can't find any little bearings on the failed pump.  Are they supposed to
be in the cam follower?  If so, I may be in trouble, because that whole cam
assembly disintegrated. Where do the bearings go when the pump fails? Do
they fall through that small opening where the timing chain comes through?
Do I have to overhaul the whole engine to look for and remove these little
bearings from the entire oil system?

Maybe I'm lucky because I drove 30 miles home after I lost all vacuum.

Would appreciate advice from anyone else that went through this with a 606
engine.

And I'm the one who always recommends replacing the vacuum pump when
someone buys one of these 606 engines.
This copy only has 142k miles on it!  And the failed vacuum pump is the kind
that has the cover held on by cap screws.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] This yours Jim?

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 3/18/06, Rory <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Judging by the DOT bumpers and headlights, I'd surmise that yes, this car
> was imported from Germany, but not as a Euro-spec car.  Therefore, I doubt
> it has ABS.
>
>
I agree on the bumpers.  I should have thought about that.  But headlights
are more easily changed, and usually have been on most of the gray-market
cars I've seen.

All that being said, the seller is probably wrong.  I still think the
question of ABS on Euro 123s was worth posing.  Somebody must know.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] Uh-Oh -- Little Bearings?

[Sunil Hari]

how likely/frequent is this failure on an OM602 engine, say in a 92 300D
with 287Kmi?

On 3/18/06, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I suspect you dodged a bullet.  I'd drain the oil, then pull the small
> removeable side panel off the oil pan, and fish out the offending
> marbles with a magnet.
>
> On 3/18/06, ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I can't find any little bearings on the failed pump.  Are they supposed
> to
> > be in the cam follower?  If so, I may be in trouble, because that whole
> cam
> > assembly disintegrated. Where do the bearings go when the pump fails? Do
> > they fall through that small opening where the timing chain comes
> through?
> > Do I have to overhaul the whole engine to look for and remove these
> little
> > bearings from the entire oil system?
>
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
> '87 300TD intercooler (212k)
> '84 300D (211k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] seat repair

[Rory]

I too, enjoy the smell of the horsehair seat pads.  It is a smell that
evokes many memories, dad's Jags, Mom's Saab ('65 Model 96) and of course
the 5 Benz's I've owned.  It's the smell of Quality!



On 3/18/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> the smell?  What smell?  If you are talking about the smell I think you
> are talking about, that is a great smell, I love that smell.
>
> Sunil Hari wrote:
>
> > I got a large piece of that memory foam from Meijer (like Wal-Mart, but
> > Midwest) that tops mattresses, cut it to fit, and used that in my 115
> when I
> > redid those seats.  Got rid of all the horsehair and the smell went away
> > too.
> >
> > On 3/16/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >>Hey that sounds a bit better. Didn't know you had stuff like that.
> Someone
> >>on one of these lists gave me the web
> >>address for World and I had a look - then emailed to ask for a price.
> >>
> >>So, do you think the real thing is better than an update??
> >>
> >>Randy B
> >>
> >>-Original Message-
> >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
> >>Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 5:01 PM
> >>To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
> >>Subject: Re: [MBZ] seat repair
> >>
> >>
> >>I have the OE Genuine MB horsehair for $164.00. Why did you cal World
> >>Upholstery?
> >>
> >>Rusty Cullens
> >>BuyMBparts, Inc.
> >>1-800-741-5252
> >>
> >>-Original Message-
> >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of R A Bennell
> >>Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 5:40 PM
> >>To: Mercedes Discussion List
> >>Subject: [MBZ] seat repair
> >>
> >>I checked with World Upholstery and they want $235 for a horsehair pad
> >>to put into the front seat bottom on my 115.
> >>I know I saw on here somewhere about repadding the seats with foam etc.
> >>Who has done this and how well did it work
> >>out? Am I better off to have a local upholstery shop make me something
> >>out of dense foam or to try to do it myself.
> >>Shaping the foam would be the hard part I guess - after finding
> >>something suitable. I just wonder if something more
> >>modern than the horsehair pad would be as good or better at a lower
> >>cost. I'd have to look more closely but I don't
> >>think the passenger side is really in need yet so I could get away with
> >>just doing the driver's side. I had thought
> >>about doing both until I got the quote. I'm frugal (and poor) so that
> >>isn't to my liking. Two of them would be $470
> >>plus shipping of probably $25 or more plus taxes of 14% (on the value
> >>converted to Cdn $).
> >>
> >>Randy B
> >>
> >>
> >>___
> >>http://www.striplin.net
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >>
> >>___
> >>http://www.striplin.net
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >>
> >>___
> >>http://www.striplin.net
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Sunil Hari
> > 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 513-205-7474
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD

Re: [MBZ] Uh-Oh -- Little Bearings?

[Zeitgeist]

I suspect you dodged a bullet.  I'd drain the oil, then pull the small
removeable side panel off the oil pan, and fish out the offending
marbles with a magnet.

On 3/18/06, ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I can't find any little bearings on the failed pump.  Are they supposed to
> be in the cam follower?  If so, I may be in trouble, because that whole cam
> assembly disintegrated. Where do the bearings go when the pump fails? Do
> they fall through that small opening where the timing chain comes through?
> Do I have to overhaul the whole engine to look for and remove these little
> bearings from the entire oil system?

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

[MBZ] Uh-Oh -- Little Bearings?

[ned kleinhenz]

I removed the vacuum pump from my '95 E300D, today, to replace it with a new
one from Rusty.
Right away, it was easy to spot why I totally lost all vacuum.  The old pump
was trashed.
I'd post photos, if I could figure out how to.  (Could someone instruct me
off line?)

I remember stories of other 606 engines being ruined by little bearings from
a failed vacuum pump.
So I am reluctant to install the new pump until I feel confident there isn't
the potential for residual damage.

I can't find any little bearings on the failed pump.  Are they supposed to
be in the cam follower?  If so, I may be in trouble, because that whole cam
assembly disintegrated. Where do the bearings go when the pump fails? Do
they fall through that small opening where the timing chain comes through?
Do I have to overhaul the whole engine to look for and remove these little
bearings from the entire oil system?

Maybe I'm lucky because I drove 30 miles home after I lost all vacuum.

Would appreciate advice from anyone else that went through this with a 606
engine.

And I'm the one who always recommends replacing the vacuum pump when
someone buys one of these 606 engines.
This copy only has 142k miles on it!  And the failed vacuum pump is the kind
that has the cover held on by cap screws.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD

Re: [MBZ] Oil Pan Damage

[Zeitgeist]

I have a good OM617 longblock from an '85 123, I'd let go for $400, if
you opt to go for it.

On 3/18/06, B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How would one ascertain the level of engine damage on this:
>   http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142998728.html

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] seat repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I have plenty of them in stock.

Bob Rentfro wrote:

Speaking of seats, how much should I expect to pay for a good palomino rear 
seatback? The top of mine has erupted along the top perpendicular to all the 
stiching.
I'm going to call TriStar here in town and see what they have...eventhough I 
havn't enjoyed doing business with them since Pete sold the business.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 15K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] seat repair



Speaking of which mine came in yesterday and is really nice. Tonight I'll 
pull the drivers seat in my 190D. Hopefully by Monday morning I'll have it 
all back together. ;)


I bought the seat repair book from Mercedes Source, not one of his better 
works. :(


-Curt

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 18:00:55 -0500
From: "Rusty Cullens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] seat repair
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I have the OE Genuine MB horsehair for $164.00. Why did you cal World
Upholstery?

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 87 300SDL

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

you need to replace or clean your speed sensors.

Tarek Elshenawy wrote:


See whats funny is one day the antilock light came on. Now when I left the
car with my mechanic, the relay was change due to suspicion stemming from
the car running so rough, etc. So the relay is changed but the antilock
light will still come on every now and then. It lights up and goes out fine
on startup, but randomly during the course of my drive the light will come
on. Once the car is turned off and restarted, the light goes out again. 


The car seems to be running a lot better now that the relay was changed, but
occasionally the antilock light still comes on. What could be the problem
besides the relay? The alternator?

Tarek
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 9:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300SDL

It's the over protection relay and its function is to protect the engine
control computer and anti-lock break controller from over-voltage in the
unlikely event that the alternator runs wide open.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tarek Elshenawy
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 7:50 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: [MBZ] 87 300SDL


Hello all. Can anyone tell me the function of the relay that is right next
to the AC compressor relay (the one with the 10A fuse in the top cover)? It
might be called the overload protection relay.

Thanks in advance.

Tarek



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] seat repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

the smell?  What smell?  If you are talking about the smell I think you 
are talking about, that is a great smell, I love that smell.


Sunil Hari wrote:


I got a large piece of that memory foam from Meijer (like Wal-Mart, but
Midwest) that tops mattresses, cut it to fit, and used that in my 115 when I
redid those seats.  Got rid of all the horsehair and the smell went away
too.

On 3/16/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hey that sounds a bit better. Didn't know you had stuff like that. Someone
on one of these lists gave me the web
address for World and I had a look - then emailed to ask for a price.

So, do you think the real thing is better than an update??

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 5:01 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] seat repair


I have the OE Genuine MB horsehair for $164.00. Why did you cal World
Upholstery?

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 5:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] seat repair

I checked with World Upholstery and they want $235 for a horsehair pad
to put into the front seat bottom on my 115.
I know I saw on here somewhere about repadding the seats with foam etc.
Who has done this and how well did it work
out? Am I better off to have a local upholstery shop make me something
out of dense foam or to try to do it myself.
Shaping the foam would be the hard part I guess - after finding
something suitable. I just wonder if something more
modern than the horsehair pad would be as good or better at a lower
cost. I'd have to look more closely but I don't
think the passenger side is really in need yet so I could get away with
just doing the driver's side. I had thought
about doing both until I got the quote. I'm frugal (and poor) so that
isn't to my liking. Two of them would be $470
plus shipping of probably $25 or more plus taxes of 14% (on the value
converted to Cdn $).

Randy B


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] seat repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

maybe you should check with rusty on those

R A Bennell wrote:


I checked with World Upholstery and they want $235 for a horsehair pad to put 
into the front seat bottom on my 115.
I know I saw on here somewhere about repadding the seats with foam etc. Who has 
done this and how well did it work
out? Am I better off to have a local upholstery shop make me something out of 
dense foam or to try to do it myself.
Shaping the foam would be the hard part I guess - after finding something 
suitable. I just wonder if something more
modern than the horsehair pad would be as good or better at a lower cost. I'd 
have to look more closely but I don't
think the passenger side is really in need yet so I could get away with just 
doing the driver's side. I had thought
about doing both until I got the quote. I'm frugal (and poor) so that isn't to 
my liking. Two of them would be $470
plus shipping of probably $25 or more plus taxes of 14% (on the value converted 
to Cdn $).

Randy B


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Oil Pan Damage

[Jim Cathey]

How would one ascertain the level of engine damage on this:
  http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142998728.html


Hard to say, but at that price (assuming the car is in decent
condition) it might be a good gamble.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 Turbo

[Jim Cathey]

*have* to ask the question - is it possible for the turbo to operate
intermittently?


No, and yes. The _turbo_ won't operate intermittently, but the
system that detects the (highly variable) boost and adds fuel
commensurate with boost pressure versus throttle pressure
versus RPM can be intermittent.  The ALDA and overboost
protection systems, or their more modern equivalent.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Oil Pan Damage

[l02turner]

With the info provided you can't tell.  You'd need to check the oil pressure 
and to *really* know, you'd need to check the main and/or rod bearings for 
damage.  The bearings would have a blue or black discoloration if they were 
overheated from lack of oil.


Can't remember if the 300 engine has a 2 part pan like the 240  does - if 
so, the lower pan could be removed to get access to the bearings - after the 
oil pump were taken out of the way - and then the bearings could be checked.


The guy's right about parting it out if the engine didn;t work for you.  But 
you need to ask him what the oil pressure was when he drove it home. 
Although if it were a very short distance it might hold oil pressure for a 
few minutes (very few).If the main bearings were damaged, the oil 
pressure would be low.  If the rod bearings were damaged you probably 
wouldn't hear it until a rod came thru the block.


HTH's -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "B Dike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:01 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Pan Damage



How would one ascertain the level of engine damage on this:
 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142998728.html

 Thanks,



Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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[MBZ] 300D 2.5 Turbo

[l02turner]

Howdy -
   I have been driving my new (to me) '91 300D alot and it's really a joy 
to drive.  But, (there *had* to be a but), sometimes I can really feel the 
turbo as it pushes me back in the seat.  Other times, it pulls strongly but 
not with the same zoom effect as at other times.


   I realize the gear selected has a huge effect on acceleration but I just 
*have* to ask the question - is it possible for the turbo to operate 
intermittantly?  If I was more familiar with this engine I wouldn't have to 
ask - especially since given the way a turbo works,  I just cannot imagine 
how it wouldn't work 100% of the time.


   Am I being paranoid?  I get like this when I have a new purchase - worry 
about too much until I get accustomed to things. ;-)


TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] This yours Jim?

[Rory]

Judging by the DOT bumpers and headlights, I'd surmise that yes, this car
was imported from Germany, but not as a Euro-spec car.  Therefore, I doubt
it has ABS.

--
Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD

[MBZ] Oil Pan Damage

[B Dike]

How would one ascertain the level of engine damage on this:
  http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142998728.html
  
  Thanks,
  
  

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 12:24:12 -0600
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: [MBZ] Cargo Largo
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X-List-Received-Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 18:26:11 -

Dr Biodiesel Dan and myself headed up to KC thursday to go to the Cargo 
Largo auction.  While there also picked up a really ugly VW diesel 5 
-speed.  Anyways, this auction is like nothing I have ever seen.  Its 
held in a giant cave which was once a mine of some sort then turned into 
a HUGE warehousing complex underground.  Anyway, this auction has 
thousands and thousands of pallets of stuff that has been lost or 
damaged or whatever in shipping.  This is stuff from fedex, yellow, and 
several other trucking companies.  Anything you can imagine or not 
imagine was there.  Just a few things I saw, many pallets of copy paper 
and such, pallets of different types of contractor sealers and such, 
laser printers, there was a brand new 700r4 transmission on a pallet, 
floor cleaning stuff, buffer pads for floor cleaning machines, pallets 
with probably 50 cases of Taco Bell wrappers(not sure what anybody would 
do with that), groceries, car parts, huge truck parts, AC units, 
clothing, just on and on and on.  You turn in a list of your bids then 
come back the next day to see what you won.  We bid on several pallets 
but ended up with 5.  I was a little worried since the car trailer 
already had the VW loaded on it.  Anyways, we won a pallet of those 
Symbol hand held scanners that Wally world uses, a pallet of lexmark 
laser printers, 2 pallets with about 12 cases of these cardboard standup 
presentation boards(school kids use them for projects, will sell well) 
and a pallet of highly flammable chemicals including acetone, 
collodian(sp), collodian remover.  We had that suburban packed FULL, the 
VW was packed FULL, all the ares on the traler around the VW were loaded 
with boxes and strapped down.  It looked like santas sleigh on the way 
back. Anyway, I was hoping to see a 603 head in there somewhere but no 
such luck, maybe next time.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 1983 300SD continued

[Jim Cathey]

I did try pushing each button down every few seconds with no action 
from the
ACC.  The central locking must be inoperative, probably due to the 
moisture

in the trunk.


Fuses also can play into it!  Did the clock run?  Same fuse as
the central locking system.

I almost bought a well-maintained 83 SD as my second MB, but
I decided to hold out for the SDL.  I wanted a 'boat'.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Marshall Booth]

Tom Hargrave wrote:

Possibly because the 2.5 turbo is the best diesel Mercedes ever made.


The 602.96 engine was about the most powerful (re displacement) of the 
mechanical injection diesel engines while still remaining just plain 
reliable. No serious flaws. I don't like the EGR control system (used in 
the '90s) and all 124s have the problem of having to remove the entire 
dash, steering wheel and console to replace the AC evaporator and the 
outrageously expensive Nippondenso compressor, but the '90-'93 124.128 
300D 2.5s are really VERY refined cars. Many of the things that were 
introduced in '94 to the 124 E300D (like the biodegradable wiring 
harness, the tuned resonance air intake system, the complex afterstart 
glow system, etc.) detracted from long term reliability and made repair 
more complex than it should have been.


All of that said, I still prefer driving my '87 300TD with it's OM603.96 
engine on the highway and while many, many fewer than half of the 
OM603.96 engines developed cracked heads - but that potential problem IS 
still real. That extra 25 hp really makes a difference even in a car 
that weights 660 lb more than my 190D 2.5t. The difference between the 
weight of an '87 300D and a '90s 300D 2.5 is MUCH smaller so the 300D 
with the 6 cylinder engine is a ROCKET by comparison.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Tom Hargrave]

I don't know if the quality went down but the cost of repair definitely went
up. Those years had some expensive modules.

I guess in the long run it doesn't matter when you factor in longevity and
economy.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


IIRC, thr mid-90s was when the quality started going downhill.  Right?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


>I have seen them go for as little as 8k with low miles like that and for as
> much as 12k!  Big range for some reason.  I've been watching them for
> about
> 2 years.  Another interesting obversation is that the 2.5 turbos with low
> miles seem to command more than the 1995 E300D with similar miles.
>
> John Peterson
> 300D 2.5 78k
> Kingston, RI
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:46 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>
>
>> Yep, I think $8k and maybe even $9k if someone's been looking for a
>> while.
>> It's a great color that doesn't show dirt, seems to be in excellent
>> condition and has low miles.  It's much like the one I just bought for
>> $8k
>> except mine's a year newer.
>>
>> Sincerely,
>> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
>> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
>> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>
>>
>>>I agree with Dwight.
>>>
>>> I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
>>> 100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Tom Hargrave
>>> 256-656-1924
>>> www.kegkits.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
>>> To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
>>> rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
>>> since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
>>> only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.
>>>
>>> Dwight Giles, Jr
>>> 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
>>> 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
>>> Wickford, RI
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
>>> To: mercedes
>>> Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>>
>>>
>>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=
>>> 1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
>>>
>>> Any idea what it should go for?
>>>
>>>
>>> Craig
>>>
>>> ___
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>>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For
>>> used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>>
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid

[John Berryman]

On Mar 18, 2006, at 11:20 AM, John Peterson wrote:

I know the procedure is something like "Drive 30 minutes to get  
hot, leave

running then check." but I am not sure.  Can anyone help?

Thanks friends.  Feels good to get the Diesel out from winter  
hibernation!!


John Peterson


John.
	You have it about right. Check when fully warmed up, running in park  
on level ground, the fluid should come to full mark but any reading  
between full and add is acceptable. If it is not brought up to normal  
operating temp, one can be duped into overfilling.


	You should have a good look at the lines. They should have little  
rubber lined brackets to hold them in place. The rubbers can  
disappear and the line can be worn through.
	I had one go in Georgia last Feb. We were on our way from NY to  
Daytona and spent a night in a hotel in Macon. For some reason, after  
starting my 300TD, I opened the door and looked underneath. I saw a  
steady flow coming out of a cooling line. I quickly checked the level  
and shut it down with an ice bucket under to catch whatever fluid I  
could. The level was good and I got lucky. Found a MB indy shop about  
2 1/2 miles from our hotel.
	The guy didn't have a new one in stock and offered to braze it up  
for me. He also replaced all the brackets and installed a new  
secondary hood release and topped it up with Mobil 1 fluid. I was  
back on the road pronto, the bill came to $85.
	Had I not peeked under the car things surely would have been much  
worse.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid

[l02turner]

You've said it correctly.  One more step I like is to move it thru the gears 
during the 2 minutes you allow the car to idle before checking.  A pause in 
D, then R, then N and finally P. will make sure all the valve bodies are 
filled properly.


It's probably more than is required but it's the habit I'm in.   Like you, 
I've had trouble getting the AT's filled properly.  I lost my AT after it 
was overfilled also - but mine happened too long after it was overfilled to 
make a claim because we didn't drive it very often.


Good luck --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid



Dieselers, does anyone know the correct procedure to check transmission
fluid level in the 2.5?  I had a small drip from a line and want to be 
sure

that my level is okay.  I'm paranoid about fluid levels, after I lost my
transmission to OVER filling last year.  I don't think I lost much fluid
with the drip (one small drip a week, more or less) but I want to be sure.

I know the procedure is something like "Drive 30 minutes to get hot, leave
running then check." but I am not sure.  Can anyone help?

Thanks friends.  Feels good to get the Diesel out from winter 
hibernation!!


John Peterson
Kingston RI
1991 300D 2.5 78k


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Re: [MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid

[Marshall Booth]

John Peterson wrote:
> Dieselers, does anyone know the correct procedure to check transmission =

> fluid level in the 2.5?  I had a small drip from a line and want to be su=
re =

> that my level is okay.  I'm paranoid about fluid levels, after I lost my =

> transmission to OVER filling last year.  I don't think I lost much fluid =

> with the drip (one small drip a week, more or less) but I want to be sure.
> =

> I know the procedure is something like "Drive 30 minutes to get hot, leav=
e =

> running then check." but I am not sure.  Can anyone help?

It's covered here:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Maintenance/MY81/=
2710.pdf

and I attached it as well (will be stripped from the list copy).

Drive the car for 15-20 minutes to insure that the AT fluid is at =

operating temp (80 deg. C) and leave the engine running while you check =

the level. If you don't have a chamois to wipe the dipstick, use your =

fingers (NOT a cloth rag). You may have to read it half a dozen times, =

but just keep trying - you WILL get the hang of it!

Marshall
-- =

  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 =

turbo 237kmi
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 2710.pdf
Type: application/pdf
Size: 167591 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060=
318/b7103a3e/2710.pdf

[MBZ] 1983 300SD continued

[kevin kraly]

Hi, Jim.

I did try pushing each button down every few seconds with no action from the 
ACC.  The central locking must be inoperative, probably due to the moisture 
in the trunk.  This car was boxed in by three other cars on the lot (not the 
position where a hot selling diesel Benz should be that was advertised in 
the paper 2 days earlier.  The salesman (you know how salesmen are) told me 
that there have been quite a few calls on the car, and when I told him that 
I would be back tomorrow when I had more time, he said "if it's still here." 
I know that it will be, or the buyer (possibly me) will give him a lowball 
offer to clear it outa there.  My dad and I must have waited at least 20 
minutes while he rounded up the keys and people to move the surrounding 
cars.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon

1973 220D parting out 

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[l02turner]

IIRC, thr mid-90s was when the quality started going downhill.  Right?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



I have seen them go for as little as 8k with low miles like that and for as
much as 12k!  Big range for some reason.  I've been watching them for 
about

2 years.  Another interesting obversation is that the 2.5 turbos with low
miles seem to command more than the 1995 E300D with similar miles.

John Peterson
300D 2.5 78k
Kingston, RI


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


Yep, I think $8k and maybe even $9k if someone's been looking for a 
while.

It's a great color that doesn't show dirt, seems to be in excellent
condition and has low miles.  It's much like the one I just bought for 
$8k

except mine's a year newer.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



I agree with Dwight.

I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=
1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid

[Tom Hargrave]

John,

You've got the procedure. The only thing I'd add is to rock the transmission
into reverse and then back to drive. Also, make sure that you check the
fluid while the car is on level ground.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Peterson
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:20 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid


Dieselers, does anyone know the correct procedure to check transmission
fluid level in the 2.5?  I had a small drip from a line and want to be sure
that my level is okay.  I'm paranoid about fluid levels, after I lost my
transmission to OVER filling last year.  I don't think I lost much fluid
with the drip (one small drip a week, more or less) but I want to be sure.

I know the procedure is something like "Drive 30 minutes to get hot, leave
running then check." but I am not sure.  Can anyone help?

Thanks friends.  Feels good to get the Diesel out from winter hibernation!!

John Peterson
Kingston RI
1991 300D 2.5 78k


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Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 07:19:11 -0800 "Woodlandtaylors"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The reserve is just under $10,000
> 
> Dennis T

Ah, yes, he does say that in the Question & Answer section, doesn't he?


Craig

[MBZ] 190D Phase 2 and 3 completed

[Curt Raymond]

Took the seat apart, took the upholstry off, then put it on the new seat base 
and pad.
   
  The Mercedes Source book I bought is useless for a 201 seat, particularly an 
electric seat... Might be good for a manual 115, 116 or 123.  Anybody want it? 
I paid $12, I'll let it go for $7 shipping included.
   
  The electric seat appears to be alot easier to take apart, there are only 2 
screws but you MUST move the seat back to get to them if you ran the seat 
forward (so you could get to the rear bolts). The book say (paraphrasing 
here)"Oh just play with the wires until you find the right ones" 
Fortunately I have my 110ah Marine battery in the house. The small motorcycle 
starting battery I also keep in the house wasn't up to the effort...
   
  Onward!
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D "Dory" 235kmi - New driver's seat half done!


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Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 09:33:01 -0700
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
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On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 11:14:07 -0500 "John Peterson"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have seen them go for as little as 8k with low miles like that and for
> as  much as 12k!  Big range for some reason.

Maybe it depends on where the car is. Most of them for sale are on the
east coast, some on the west. This one's in Colorado.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] 190D's seat is out

[John Peterson]

You know my MB driver's seat is more comfortable than my home armchairs.
I'd leave it in the house and use the couple bucks in change to buy another 
at the junkyard!!

I can't wait to see your 190, Curt!  John Peterson

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:19 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 190D's seat is out


Okay step 1 is down the seat is out of the car and on the floor of my 
apartment.
 The worst was wrestling the seatbelt latch loose. Under the seat I found 
at least 2 screwdrivers, a set of keys and a couple bucks in change. Oh 
not to mention the tokens from Chuckie Cheese...


 Onward!

 -Curt
 '85 190D "Dory" 235kmi


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[MBZ] 190D's seat is out

[Curt Raymond]

Okay step 1 is down the seat is out of the car and on the floor of my apartment.
  The worst was wrestling the seatbelt latch loose. Under the seat I found at 
least 2 screwdrivers, a set of keys and a couple bucks in change. Oh not to 
mention the tokens from Chuckie Cheese...
   
  Onward!
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D "Dory" 235kmi


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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
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Now that is bound to get the opinions rolling!  I wasn't as bold as to spill 
my guts like that!!  But yes, it is a beautiful car.
I like the looks of the 123 better, but you can't beat that motor.
John Peterson

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


> Possibly because the 2.5 turbo is the best diesel Mercedes ever made.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> 256-656-1924
> www.kegkits.com
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Peterson
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:14 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>
>
> I have seen them go for as little as 8k with low miles like that and for 
> as
> much as 12k!  Big range for some reason.  I've been watching them for 
> about
> 2 years.  Another interesting obversation is that the 2.5 turbos with low
> miles seem to command more than the 1995 E300D with similar miles.
>
> John Peterson
> 300D 2.5 78k
> Kingston, RI
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:46 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>
>
>> Yep, I think $8k and maybe even $9k if someone's been looking for a 
>> while.
>> It's a great color that doesn't show dirt, seems to be in excellent
>> condition and has low miles.  It's much like the one I just bought for 
>> $8k
>> except mine's a year newer.
>>
>> Sincerely,
>> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
>> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
>> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>
>>
>>>I agree with Dwight.
>>>
>>> I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
>>> 100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Tom Hargrave
>>> 256-656-1924
>>> www.kegkits.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
>>> To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
>>> rising in value the last year or so that I hav

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Tom Hargrave]

Possibly because the 2.5 turbo is the best diesel Mercedes ever made.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Peterson
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


I have seen them go for as little as 8k with low miles like that and for as
much as 12k!  Big range for some reason.  I've been watching them for about
2 years.  Another interesting obversation is that the 2.5 turbos with low
miles seem to command more than the 1995 E300D with similar miles.

John Peterson
300D 2.5 78k
Kingston, RI


- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


> Yep, I think $8k and maybe even $9k if someone's been looking for a while.
> It's a great color that doesn't show dirt, seems to be in excellent
> condition and has low miles.  It's much like the one I just bought for $8k
> except mine's a year newer.
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>
>
>>I agree with Dwight.
>>
>> I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
>> 100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Tom Hargrave
>> 256-656-1924
>> www.kegkits.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
>> To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>
>>
>> I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
>> rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
>> since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
>> only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.
>>
>> Dwight Giles, Jr
>> 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
>> 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
>> Wickford, RI
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
>> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
>> To: mercedes
>> Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>>
>>
>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=
>> 1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
>>
>> Any idea what it should go for?
>>
>>
>> Craig
>>
>> ___
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>
>
>
> ___
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[MBZ] Correct Method, Check Trans. Fluid

[John Peterson]

Dieselers, does anyone know the correct procedure to check transmission 
fluid level in the 2.5?  I had a small drip from a line and want to be sure 
that my level is okay.  I'm paranoid about fluid levels, after I lost my 
transmission to OVER filling last year.  I don't think I lost much fluid 
with the drip (one small drip a week, more or less) but I want to be sure.


I know the procedure is something like "Drive 30 minutes to get hot, leave 
running then check." but I am not sure.  Can anyone help?


Thanks friends.  Feels good to get the Diesel out from winter hibernation!!

John Peterson
Kingston RI
1991 300D 2.5 78k 

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[John Peterson]

I have seen them go for as little as 8k with low miles like that and for as 
much as 12k!  Big range for some reason.  I've been watching them for about 
2 years.  Another interesting obversation is that the 2.5 turbos with low 
miles seem to command more than the 1995 E300D with similar miles.


John Peterson
300D 2.5 78k
Kingston, RI


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



Yep, I think $8k and maybe even $9k if someone's been looking for a while.
It's a great color that doesn't show dirt, seems to be in excellent
condition and has low miles.  It's much like the one I just bought for $8k
except mine's a year newer.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



I agree with Dwight.

I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=
1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Woodlandtaylors]

The reserve is just under $10,000

Dennis T

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 10:40 PM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[l02turner]

Yep, I think $8k and maybe even $9k if someone's been looking for a while. 
It's a great color that doesn't show dirt, seems to be in excellent 
condition and has low miles.  It's much like the one I just bought for $8k 
except mine's a year newer.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel



I agree with Dwight.

I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=
1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W126 Rear Subframe Rubber

[Tom Hargrave]

I'm assuming you are talking about the mounts between the subframe and the
body? The two with the large bolts up from the bottom?

My issue was not getting the old ones out, it was getting the new ones in.
It took a while but I walked the old ones out with a large screwdriver. But
even the weight of the car would not seat the new ones. I seated them as far
in as possible & drove the car. They seated themselves in about 2 weeks.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter T. Arnold
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 7:03 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] W126 Rear Subframe Rubber


As soon a I get decent weather, I've got to R&R my sub frame mounts.
This will be a weekend consuming event here due to old age and
infirmities.  I also plan on R&R rear calipers, rotors and diff mount.

My CD is not happy on my new computer (WINXP).  Can some one tell me
what section I need to read, I can do a search given the section.

I understand that I will  have to fabricate a homemade puller with
threaded rod, nuts and washers.  Any one cares to elaborate would be
thankful here.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!

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Re: [MBZ] Time to try for another St Louis - Kansas City gettogether?

[tom savage]

Christopher McCann wrote:

That would be quite interesting. I'm really sorry I missed out on the  Last 
LouisQ...I think it was because my was was immenintly about to  give birth... 
I'm always up for a road trip. Jim would like to come  too. I'll run it by him. 
I've got things tied up for the next couple  weekends, but April might work 
out...let me know when you are free.


Pretty much any weekend in the forseeable future will work for me, so 
just let me know when you can make it.  The car isn't going anywhere for 
a while.  Work is about to recommence on one of the Gullwings, though, 
so the rare opportunity to get up close and personal with its inner 
workings (as opposed to admiring from behind a velvet rope) may be waning.



  We should do HermannQ in Oktober! Everyone bring a designated driver! Prost!


That sounds like a capital idea!

Tom

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Tom Hargrave]

I agree with Dwight.

I just looked, in the condition it appears to be in and with less than
100,000 miles on the clock, this one may go for 8K or even more.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:02 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
only daily driver, I think they might be worth it.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=
1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD worth it?

[Jim Cathey]

functions check out ok as well, but I couldn't seem to get the ACC 
system to
come on perhaps due to my lack of familiarity with the later ACC 
systems, or


It's probably broken.  Repairable, though it can be time-consuming
to chase down.  It's easy to use, set the temp on the dial and push
the middle button.  You're either comfortable, or it's broken!
With the exception of the monovalve insert, anything else is
probably a bad connection that can be cured for little $.  Oh,
and the blower motor brushes or the aspirator motor are wear
items that could cost a bit.

If pushing the defrost (left) button jump-starts the system then
it's the engine temperature interlock that's preventing the heat
from coming on.

the power/vacuum locks to work.  Do these cars have a lock/unlock 
button or
the traditional vacuum locks where one has to pull up or push down on 
the
driver's door lock to activate the other three?  I didn't get a chance 
to


Just like a 123, the driver's lock knob runs it.  Later systems (86?)
will run the system from both front doors and the trunk.  Unlike 123,
it has an electric vacuum/pressure pump in the spare tire well, it
doesn't rely upon a vacuum tank.  It also only uses one line to each
actuator since it can use pressure as well as vacuum.  Because it's
electric, a keyless entry system can be fitted easily.

http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLkeyless.html

chips in it as well.  It also has a leaky trunk (not sure if it's the 
seal

or the window gasket.


Or more likely: the taillight seals.  The trunk's rainshed dumps on
the top of the lights, if the seals are bad it goes right in.  BTDT.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

I'd guess double current bid. 8K wouldn't surprise me-these have been
rising in value the last year or so that I have been watching them. And
since I have been driving mine more now and phasing out the 240D as the
only daily driver, I think they might be worth it. 

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 1:40 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682
&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] This yours Jim?

[Jim Cathey]

I noticed the seller claims it has anti-lock brakes.


In a 123?  The vacuum booster is probably out!

-- Jim

[MBZ] W126 Rear Subframe Rubber

[Peter T . Arnold]

As soon a I get decent weather, I've got to R&R my sub frame mounts.
This will be a weekend consuming event here due to old age and
infirmities.  I also plan on R&R rear calipers, rotors and diff mount.

My CD is not happy on my new computer (WINXP).  Can some one tell me
what section I need to read, I can do a search given the section.

I understand that I will  have to fabricate a homemade puller with
threaded rod, nuts and washers.  Any one cares to elaborate would be
thankful here.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!

Re: [MBZ] Pointy

[Sunil Hari]

It's funnier because we learned how to do those on Thursday.

In other news, there are PROFESSIONAL genital exam models.  This guy came in
and had med students examine him for three hours!  Nothing but genital and
rectal exams for that long.  I really hope he got paid well.

On 3/17/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> < reach
> in through the oil filler hole in the cam cover and feel the cam lobe to
> see
> how sharp the point is.>.
>
> My God, a DRE for an engine.
>
> RLE
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Sunil Hari]

I'm picking $6000.  Very low miles, diesel, and looks good.

Unless of course, it's been in an accident and repaired.  Then, $5000.

On 3/18/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
>
> Any idea what it should go for?
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD worth it?

[Sunil Hari]

If it's the pushbutton ACC (5 buttons across) it's probably broken after 22
years.  Easily restorable (I've done two).  Should have the same vacuum
locks as all the other 123, 126, and 124 cars, and it's a PITA to locate the
issue and fix if there's a problem.

Does the car have records with it?

I'd say it's a $1000 car AT MOST, especially with the leaks.  Kaleb will
give you $50.

On 3/18/06, kevin kraly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello listers.
>
> Well, I took a look at an '83 300SD today.  My dad spotted it in the
> Oregonian advertised by a local car lot, so we decided to stop by since we
> were in the neighborhood.  It has 300K miles on it.  It started well other
> than taking a few moments to clear its throat (probably glow plugs), but
> it
> showed no signs of blow by!  It shut off promptly as well with no
> shuttering
> or thumping due to bad engine/transmission mounts.  The body is solid, and
> other than 23 years of rock chips on the hood, the paint was very good!
> Tires were well used with about 5000 miles left on them.  The interior was
> ok other than tired seat springs due to the high miles.  The power seat
> functions check out ok as well, but I couldn't seem to get the ACC system
> to
> come on perhaps due to my lack of familiarity with the later ACC systems,
> or
> the power/vacuum locks to work.  Do these cars have a lock/unlock button
> or
> the traditional vacuum locks where one has to pull up or push down on the
> driver's door lock to activate the other three?  I didn't get a chance to
> have someone test drive the car, but  supposedly, it runs and drives very
> well.  The only major thing was a cracked windshield with a few other rock
> chips in it as well.  It also has a leaky trunk (not sure if it's the seal
> or the window gasket.
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
>
> 1973 220D parting out
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] This yours Jim?

[Alex Chamberlain]

Not impossible, since it's a Euro car according to the seller ("the previous
owner imported it from Germany").  IIRC 116s were available in Europe with
ABS, so maybe later 123s were too?  I bet Marshall knows.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

On 3/18/06, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I noticed the seller claims it has anti-lock brakes.
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
>
>
> On 3/18/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/141743469.html
> >
> > Not mine!  Mine's Bamboo inside, but that looks like
> > the exterior color.  Other differences: ours does have
> > scratches, a slushbox, and manual windows.  It will also
> > be cheaper!  Not quite as nice, not half so expensive.
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] This yours Jim?

[Zoltan Finks]

I noticed the seller claims it has anti-lock brakes.

Brian
83 240D


On 3/18/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/141743469.html
>
> Not mine!  Mine's Bamboo inside, but that looks like
> the exterior color.  Other differences: ours does have
> scratches, a slushbox, and manual windows.  It will also
> be cheaper!  Not quite as nice, not half so expensive.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

[MBZ] 83 300SD worth it?

[kevin kraly]

Hello listers.

Well, I took a look at an '83 300SD today.  My dad spotted it in the 
Oregonian advertised by a local car lot, so we decided to stop by since we 
were in the neighborhood.  It has 300K miles on it.  It started well other 
than taking a few moments to clear its throat (probably glow plugs), but it 
showed no signs of blow by!  It shut off promptly as well with no shuttering 
or thumping due to bad engine/transmission mounts.  The body is solid, and 
other than 23 years of rock chips on the hood, the paint was very good! 
Tires were well used with about 5000 miles left on them.  The interior was 
ok other than tired seat springs due to the high miles.  The power seat 
functions check out ok as well, but I couldn't seem to get the ACC system to 
come on perhaps due to my lack of familiarity with the later ACC systems, or 
the power/vacuum locks to work.  Do these cars have a lock/unlock button or 
the traditional vacuum locks where one has to pull up or push down on the 
driver's door lock to activate the other three?  I didn't get a chance to 
have someone test drive the car, but  supposedly, it runs and drives very 
well.  The only major thing was a cracked windshield with a few other rock 
chips in it as well.  It also has a leaky trunk (not sure if it's the seal 
or the window gasket.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon

1973 220D parting out 

Re: [MBZ] This yours Jim?

[Jim Cathey]

http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/141743469.html


Not mine!  Mine's Bamboo inside, but that looks like
the exterior color.  Other differences: ours does have
scratches, a slushbox, and manual windows.  It will also
be cheaper!  Not quite as nice, not half so expensive.

-- Jim

[MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Craig McCluskey]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621351682&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Any idea what it should go for?


Craig

Re: [MBZ] WTF VW -- LT Don?

[Jim Cathey]

http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/140923157.html


If it's not a diesel, I'm not interested!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood

[Jim Cathey]

wood than you could burn, and it keeps on coming.  Wonder if Jim C. has
a dual axle trailer for hauling cars that could convert to sides for
hauling wood back home.


Two axles, has side rails.  (Was used primarily as a hay hauler
by the PO.)  Probably better for hay than cars, the rails are too
high and you have to jack up an MB before you can open the doors.
Makes getting out the first time interesting!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[John Berryman]

On Mar 18, 2006, at 12:48 AM, Luther Gulseth wrote:


 What's the next suggestion for diagnosis?



	Check for proper valve clearance, then wash the engine real good and  
look for fresh oil on the outside. The oil on the pressure side of  
the turbo may well be coming from the crankcase breather or the turbo  
itself.
	There is a baffle inside the valve cover that could have a gap that  
needs to be epoxied that can cause an excessive amount of oil to be  
picked up by the intake air. I would run a warm compression test  
again too and compare with your previous results.

Any oil spots on the rear bumper or trunk area?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[Luther Gulseth]

I've had the car since June.  Don't know much about it before then.  It  
seems to me that it wasn't drinking oil right away, but I might be  
mistaken.  Oil outside the engine?  None, it might leave a drop or 2 over  
8 hours at work.  My SD drips more than it does, and I only add 1 qt every  
3500-4000 miles (M1 T&SUV).  Haven't looked at the exhaust side of the  
turbo.  There was plenty of fresh oil on my fingers when I moved the  
shaft.  Overheated?  Not by me (only to about 105-110 during an Italian  
tune up).  I drive the car hard, and frequently do full throttle runs onto  
the interstate, usually once or twice a week.  Vacuum shutoff box has been  
replaced by me, it failed last summer.  Pad under the dash?  I don't know,  
but I do need to pull the instrument cluster out because my odometer  
started crapping out yesterday.
I have driven behind the CD and there is constantly a light haze coming  
out of the exhaust at all times.  Under moderate acceleration, it's  
heavier, and pretty strong under full throttle.  How does the car run?   
Like a scared rabbit compared to my SD or Dad's '85D Cali.
Marshall mentioned that it could be injector related and excessive carbon  
build up in 1 & 2.  I could swap the very clean set of injectors from the  
Holy Block Blue Bomber into the CD and give it several full throttle runs  
up the mountains north of me.   What's the next suggestion for diagnosis?


On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 23:06:24 -0600, John Berryman  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:




On Mar 17, 2006, at 8:34 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:


Side to side play against the shaft.  I didn't try along the shaft.


Did you see oil in the housing? The shaft runs on a film of oil in
bushings, it needs some room for expansion but .030" seems excessive.



Valves are adjusted, around 4,000 miles ago.


That doesn't say much, a tight valve(s) will give low compression
readings. You have to check them and a few other things before
condemning a head gasket.


  Coolant's clear and golden.
Could the head gasket go bad in between 1 and 2 without opening up a
coolant pasage?


Sure it can but it is not common that there is no trace of
combustion contamination in the coolant. You could have stuck rings.
Would you pull your pistons before doing a proper diagnosis?


I don't know the geometry of these engines well enough
yet.


At only 159,000mi you shouldn't have to be finding out. Do you have
any history on this car? Have you had this car any length of time?
Did it suddenly start drinking oil? Is there any oil showing outside
the engine? Spots on driveway? Turbo wet with oil on the exhaust
impeller side? Was it ever overheated? When was its last Italian Tune-
Up? How does it run? Is the pad under the dash soaked with oil? Is
there oil in the vacuum lines for the shut-off box?



Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[John Berryman]

On Mar 17, 2006, at 8:34 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:


Side to side play against the shaft.  I didn't try along the shaft.


	Did you see oil in the housing? The shaft runs on a film of oil in  
bushings, it needs some room for expansion but .030" seems excessive.




Valves are adjusted, around 4,000 miles ago.


	That doesn't say much, a tight valve(s) will give low compression  
readings. You have to check them and a few other things before  
condemning a head gasket.



  Coolant's clear and golden.
Could the head gasket go bad in between 1 and 2 without opening up a
coolant pasage?


	Sure it can but it is not common that there is no trace of  
combustion contamination in the coolant. You could have stuck rings.  
Would you pull your pistons before doing a proper diagnosis?	



I don't know the geometry of these engines well enough
yet.


	At only 159,000mi you shouldn't have to be finding out. Do you have  
any history on this car? Have you had this car any length of time?  
Did it suddenly start drinking oil? Is there any oil showing outside  
the engine? Spots on driveway? Turbo wet with oil on the exhaust  
impeller side? Was it ever overheated? When was its last Italian Tune- 
Up? How does it run? Is the pad under the dash soaked with oil? Is  
there oil in the vacuum lines for the shut-off box?




Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Speaking of valve adjustments...

[Craig McCluskey]

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 14:07:57 -0600 "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> That part would appear to be alright. I have yet to take the valve cover
> off so I am judging by only the one lobe - I need to order some stuff
> like a valve cover gasket etc., before I get into this.

The valve cover gaskets are re-usable many times. Just take a little care
to not gouge or tear it as you're taking the valve cover off or putting it
back on and clean the top of the head and the gasket before putting the
valve cover back on.


Craig

[MBZ] WTF VW -- LT Don?

[redghost]

http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/140923157.html

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] This yours Jim?

[redghost]

http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/141743469.html


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood

[redghost]

Best source of wood around here is Craigs List.  Free wood coming out 
the rafters in heaps and piles.  Haul your own and have more seasoned 
wood than you could burn, and it keeps on coming.  Wonder if Jim C. has 
a dual axle trailer for hauling cars that could convert to sides for 
hauling wood back home.


On Friday, March 17, 2006, at 12:59 PM, John Berryman wrote:



On Mar 17, 2006, at 1:10 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


What has been working, sort of, is to have the pieces of wood
short enough that they can sit in there endways towards the
door.  Then I stack some next to the fire, and maybe on top
of the smoke shelf, to dry out.  Partially.  Using this and
leavening it with the last of our semi-dry wood (it was cut
for next year!) we can keep the upstairs of the house at about
60 degrees, with some work.  At times it even approaches 65,
when the sun is out!

-- Jim



You might get a few more degrees out of it if the wood was well
seasoned. It doesn't always work out that way so you compromise and
make do with what you have.
On the coldest nights last year when power went out we were able to
maintain 62F with one Vermont Castings Vigilant. Our log home is
pretty big but we shut down 2 stacked bedrooms that are on their own
heat zone. They are only used when we have guests, so we save a bit
there.
This Winter we have 2 Vermont Castings as my Wife bought a mint
hardly used Resolute (wood not gas) for $250 and had my buddies
install it while I was working down South. We can get it real toasty
in here now but both of us like it around 67F daytime and 60-62 at
night.
We started putting up wood for next year already and still have
enough seasoned to get through this year with about 1/2 cord left
over. A family around the corner just had some big trees cut down, 2
big beech, some ash, hard maple, locust, white birch and red oaks
too. They have gas stoves and I get all the wood as long as I get it
out of there by May. It'll be close to what I will be needing for
next year.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Saint Pats Cars

[Craig McCluskey]

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 20:26:01 -0600 "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Is that the front end of the drive shaft and the rear of the tranny
> sitting on the drive in the last picture of the 16v?
> How would you do that?
> 
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142854889.html  --  190e 16v  $3k

Actually, they are hanging down but not touching the driveway. Looks a
little funny, though. He does say, "The car has a good running motor but
needs some work on possibly the driveline to get it going I've
included pictures of the car and of what needs to be fixed."

I think I would like to see the car up close and personal before
considering buying it.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] Quick Boot

[Jim Cathey]

DO NOT DO IT! Purchase a good used axle!


Yes, at the U-Pull an axle is _cheaper_ than the boot kit!
I have four boot kits somewhere in my garage.  I was impatient,
and ignorant.  Now I've got four or five spare axles laid in
for our many cars that take such things.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Quick Boot

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

Unless you are just replacing a boot with stress cracks that havn't gone 
all the way through, don't bother. If the boot is torn, the cv joint is 
already on the way to quickly being trashed, the dirt is in and the 
damage has already started. Get a fresh half shaft.
If on the other hand, it hasn't torn through yet, you'll need those 
fancy cv clamp pliers to get the band clamps off and on ( or a 
screwdriver, a pair of needle nose, and a wide vocabulary )Cut the old 
one off, remorve the clamps, use the grease that comes with the boot, 
slip the boot around without getting any grease in the grove ( if you do 
, clean it out with brake parts cleaner or alcohol etc ) follow 
instructions for gluing togethr ( unless it's the screw together type :, 
it's been so long since I fooled with one of those things , I don't even 
know what's available nowdays) Clamp  the ends and  you're done.

now if it sounds easy. don't believe it.

--Robert

Zoltan Finks wrote:

Any inside info. on installing "quick boots" on the rear shafts? I know, it
should be self explanatory, but why not ask? Since it's such a simple item
(at least I think it is) I'm just going to try to pick up a kit here in
town.

Tips on the install?

Brian
83 240D
___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.

[Marshall Booth]

redghost wrote:
Reamer is very important.  The carbon builds up and can interfere with 
the GP doing its job.  The plug will cook and short out much sooner if 
the crud is not removed at each change of GP.  Paid $600 to have all 
the crud removed in the e300d because the last guy to install GP #5 did 
not, and it died inside, having cemented itself to the carbon.  You 
need to remove that junk so the GP seats well.


Try Rusty for the tool, or PP always has them in their booklet



On the OM606 engines reaming is MUCH more important than it is on older 
engines (unless a plug is hard to get out). I haven't needed a reamer 
for more than 20 years, but if I had an OM606 engine I'd use a reamer 
every time I changed plugs.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[Marshall Booth]

Luther Gulseth wrote:
Tonight I checked compression and the turbo on my coupe.   The turbo spins  
freely under my fingers, the shaft has around 1/32" play.

1=300
2=300
3=380
4=330
5=360

Could I have 2 oil loss locations?  The turbo and the head gasket between  
1&2?  TIA all,




In Mercedes diesels, low compression and oil consumption are often NOT 
tightly correlated. The oil control rings often fail to control oil 
consumption LONG before compression suffers. This is particularly true 
with the OM603.97 rod bender engines, but it applies to all the '80s and 
'90s Mercedes diesels.


The compression spread on that engine is almost double what Mercedes 
permits, but that could result from a couple of injectors dribbling and 
causing carbon buildup on the #1 and #2 pistons. That will greatly 
increase oil consumption until the injectors are replaced and the carbon 
is burned out (that can take 250-500 miles of HARD driving or a lot 
longer if not driven hard). A couple of hanging valves can cause that 
kind of droop on #1 & 2 cylinders, or the engine/rings could be worn. 
That's rare on that engine even when the engine has some 400-500kmi on 
it. It's unlikely to be a head gasket (no easy way to tell until it 
get's VERY bad - the engine needs to be at the top end of the optimal 
range before early head gasket problems will show up and oil consumption 
isn't usually a symptom of that kind of gasket problem!


Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Quick Boot

[Marshall Booth]

Zoltan Finks wrote:

Any inside info. on installing "quick boots" on the rear shafts? I know, it
should be self explanatory, but why not ask? Since it's such a simple item
(at least I think it is) I'm just going to try to pick up a kit here in
town.

Tips on the install?


DO NOT DO IT! Purchase a good used axle!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.

[redghost]

Reamer is very important.  The carbon builds up and can interfere with 
the GP doing its job.  The plug will cook and short out much sooner if 
the crud is not removed at each change of GP.  Paid $600 to have all 
the crud removed in the e300d because the last guy to install GP #5 did 
not, and it died inside, having cemented itself to the carbon.  You 
need to remove that junk so the GP seats well.


Try Rusty for the tool, or PP always has them in their booklet

On Friday, March 17, 2006, at 05:06 AM, Levi Smith wrote:


Also on the subject of tools...  How important is the glow plug reamer,
and what's the best place to get one?




--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Saint Pats Cars

[OK Don]

Is that the front end of the drive shaft and the rear of the tranny
sitting on the drive in the last picture of the 16v?
How would you do that?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142854889.html  --  190e 16v  $3k



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

[MBZ] Saint Pats Cars

[redghost]

Use delete button or proceed at your own risk.


http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142854889.html  --  190e 16v  $3k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142805861.html  --  4spd 240D

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142800166.html  --  D309  $4500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142685497.html  --  Ed Booher  $1k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142588941.html  --  84 190D  5spd

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142426816.html  --  82 240D $5500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142282000.html  --  87 190D $4500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142217949.html  --  76 240D overprice

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142154750.html  --  72 SEL $1800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142145550.html  --  76 240D $50

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/141975471.html  --  79 300D $3k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/142022849.html  --  85 300D $2200

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/141856023.html  --  83 300D $2k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/141622571.html  --  85 380 $700

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/141535656.html  --  90 CE $1800


Have a great weekend and if you need me to look at one, let me know
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.

[OK Don]

The only time I needed one was when the new glow plug wouldn't go in ---

On 3/17/06, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK, so how would one know when one needs to use a reamer?
>
>
> OK Don wrote:
> > I don't remember what the dowel size was, and I only needed to use it
> > once, on one glow plug. It was what I found lying around the fit. Most
> > of the time you don't need it.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Woodlandtaylors]

Jim,

Put a for sale sign in the back window, my daughter said the late 70's and
80's MB diesels are fetching big bucks around Seattle - any comment Casey.

Dennis T

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 5:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

> We're planning to fill up both tanks in Idaho tomorrow and
> drive to Seattle and back in the car.  The shakedown cruise.

Fuel is a lot cheaper in Idaho, in case you're curious.  Effectively
the car is 'done', though there are a few small things left to do.
I'm into it a conservative 80 hours of labor, and the expenses
(including acquisition) are a hair under $1000.

(Hmm, motor mounts, restoring the AC, and a CLA on the sunroof
are still on the list.  Maybe not so small.  Sigh.)

I doubt this is going to make much money for us.  Nice looking
car, though.  That's why I want to drive it to Seattle.  That way
I get some small ROI for all the TLC before we sell it.  And it
ought to save us a bit of money if we don't have to buy expensive
Washington fuel.  (An extra gas tax.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Good luck Jim on your maiden voyage. You deserve a nice ride.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 8:22 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon


The 'new' differential is in, and the whine is gone.

Whew.  I clock it as a seven hour job, not counting putting
a differential back in Smelly.  On the plus side now I've
taken a rear subframe off of a car, so it's no longer a
scary thing.

We're planning to fill up both tanks in Idaho tomorrow and drive to
Seattle and back in the car.  The shakedown cruise.

-- Jim


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For
used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Jim Cathey]

We're planning to fill up both tanks in Idaho tomorrow and
drive to Seattle and back in the car.  The shakedown cruise.


Fuel is a lot cheaper in Idaho, in case you're curious.  Effectively
the car is 'done', though there are a few small things left to do.
I'm into it a conservative 80 hours of labor, and the expenses
(including acquisition) are a hair under $1000.

(Hmm, motor mounts, restoring the AC, and a CLA on the sunroof
are still on the list.  Maybe not so small.  Sigh.)

I doubt this is going to make much money for us.  Nice looking
car, though.  That's why I want to drive it to Seattle.  That way
I get some small ROI for all the TLC before we sell it.  And it
ought to save us a bit of money if we don't have to buy expensive
Washington fuel.  (An extra gas tax.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Pointy

[RELNGSON]

<.

My God, a DRE for an engine.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[Luther Gulseth]

Side to side play against the shaft.  I didn't try along the shaft.   
Valves are adjusted, around 4,000 miles ago.  Coolant's clear and golden.
Could the head gasket go bad in between 1 and 2 without opening up a  
coolant pasage?  I don't know the geometry of these engines well enough  
yet.


On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 19:19:24 -0600, John Berryman  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:




On Mar 17, 2006, at 8:21 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:


Tonight I checked compression and the turbo on my coupe.   The
turbo spins
freely under my fingers, the shaft has around 1/32" play.
1=300
2=300
3=380
4=330
5=360

Could I have 2 oil loss locations?  The turbo and the head gasket
between
1&2?  TIA all,



Are your valves adjusted properly? In what direction is the play in
the shaft? Do you have a black film in the coolant tank?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Jim Cathey]

The 'new' differential is in, and the whine is gone.

Whew.  I clock it as a seven hour job, not counting putting
a differential back in Smelly.  On the plus side now I've
taken a rear subframe off of a car, so it's no longer a
scary thing.

We're planning to fill up both tanks in Idaho tomorrow and
drive to Seattle and back in the car.  The shakedown cruise.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[John Berryman]

On Mar 17, 2006, at 8:21 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:

Tonight I checked compression and the turbo on my coupe.   The  
turbo spins

freely under my fingers, the shaft has around 1/32" play.
1=300
2=300
3=380
4=330
5=360

Could I have 2 oil loss locations?  The turbo and the head gasket  
between

1&2?  TIA all,



	Are your valves adjusted properly? In what direction is the play in  
the shaft? Do you have a black film in the coolant tank?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[Jim Cathey]

freely under my fingers, the shaft has around 1/32" play.


Which way?  A little play in one axis is OK, the other is bad.
I just can't remember if radial or axial play is OK.  Whichever,
the other way is NOT.

-- Jim

[MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage

[Luther Gulseth]

Tonight I checked compression and the turbo on my coupe.   The turbo spins  
freely under my fingers, the shaft has around 1/32" play.

1=300
2=300
3=380
4=330
5=360

Could I have 2 oil loss locations?  The turbo and the head gasket between  
1&2?  TIA all,


--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi burning oil 1qt/250mi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] Where's the thundrous laughter?

[Zoltan Finks]

Ah. I'm validated. I didn't know if the picture got through.

Brian


On 3/17/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Zoltan Finks wrote:
> > I give up. Me and Crackie are goin' on the road.
> >
>
> I thought it was pretty funny...
>
>
> David Brodbeck
> '83 300D Turbo
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

Re: [MBZ] Where's the thundrous laughter?

[David Brodbeck]

Zoltan Finks wrote:

I give up. Me and Crackie are goin' on the road.
  


I thought it was pretty funny...


David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.

[David Brodbeck]

OK Don wrote:

The feel part of using a feeler gauge is to have some resistance when
pulling the gauge through the gap, but not so much that it's changing
the gap -- no resistance means that the gap is too wide.


One thing I've found helpful, when I'm in doubt, is to do a go/no-go 
test.  Try a gauge the next size up from the spec.  It should fail to go 
through.  The proper size gauge should go through with a slight drag, 
and the next smallest gauge should fall through with no resistance.


It's a feel sort of thing...with the proper adjustment, the gauge will 
go through, but you'll feel it slide against the surface on each side.  
Be careful not to tilt or twist the gauge, or you'll get a false reading.

Re: [MBZ] New GL class

[David Brodbeck]

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Yeah, but that wouldn't be the case with the Crown Vic, which somebody
singled out as having a lower tow rating now than it used to.  It's still
body-on-frame---as far as I know, the last American car (as opposed to truck
or SUV) to be made that way.


Yes, that's true.  Maybe they "cheapened up" the transmission, rear 
axle, or cooling system.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.

[David Brodbeck]

Tom offered:

"Valve adjustment is an art as much as a science. Remember, you use
"feeler" gauges. You have to learn the proper "feel" of the gauge at the
correct adjustment. That said; the only way to learn is to do it several
times. I suggest you get someone who has done it before to guide you
through the first time."
  


I always found doing valve adjustments an oddly pleasing task.  
Something about the way the feeler gauge slides through the gap...it's 
very hands-on and tactile.  I haven't done it on a Mercedes, yet, but 
I've done it on aircooled VWs and on a Honda Civic.  The Civic was 
easier -- I didn't have to lay down on the ground to get to the cylinder 
head.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo