[MBZ] Power steering leak?

[Curt Raymond]

The other day I noticed the power steering on my '85 190D moaning a little bit 
first thing in the morning. I made a note to change the PS fluid and filter 
when I change the oil this weekend (I always change the PS fluid anyway). Today 
I noticed it moaning as I left work, hmmm
  Got home and checked and the resevior was totally empty except for some down 
in the filter. Filled it up and looked around. I can't see any obvious leak but 
its threatening a thunderstorm so I didn't stay out there. Assuming it is 
leaking and is leaking at a constant rate its gone through about a pint in 4 
months/7,000 miles and I'm not too terribly worried about it especially since I 
know to watch for it now.
  But still...
  Anywhere common I should check?
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D "Dory" 241kmi

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Today's Topics:

1. Ammonia? (Frederick Moir)
2. Re: AC Compressor issue? (Levi Smith)
3. 240D rescued.. (Kevin J. Slater)
4. Re: OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37 (Smith, Todd)
5. Re: AC Compressor issue? (Robert & Tara Ludwick)
6. Re: OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37 (John Berryman)
7. Re: AC Compressor issue? (Potter, Tom E)
8. Re: OT - Ammonia Refrigerant? (George Larribeau)
9. short in aux fan ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
10. Re: short in aux fan (Levi Smith)
11. Re: short in aux fan (ernest breakfield)
12. Re: easy fix (andrew strasfogel)
13. Re: short in aux fan (Levi Smith)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 11:24:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frederick Moir 
Subject: [MBZ] Ammonia?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Are you NUTS?
The seafront of Gloucester MA underwent explosive urban renewal! Luckily it was 
early Sunday morning and the collection of bars, cafe's and er 'massage 
parlors' were empty when they dissappeared as the block long cold storage blew 
up. There was still, in the 90's, one ammonia cold storage plant, and when they 
sprang a leak, it was like an air raid was imminent and a mad scramble to gain 
a safe distance! NOT for cars, No! No! Hell NO!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
BTDT
Diesel Rules!


-
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ 
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--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 14:26:36 -0400
From: "Levi Smith" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

That was the next thing I wanted to verify. The clutch is simply a 12v
electromagnet, correct? So I should see 12V coming in on the connector, and
if I put an external 12v source to the compressor I should notice the clutch
moving, correct?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Potter, Tom E wrote:
>
> Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?
>
> Tom Potter
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?
>
> Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor. However, the clutch is
> not
> engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning. So it IS normal for
> the
> low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.
>
> So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch isn't
> engaging?
>
> Thanks,
> Levi
>
> On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:
> >
> > A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or
> > not?
> > If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is
> > reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum
> > expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.
> >
> > ---Robert
> >
> > Levi Smith wrote:
> > > OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it
> this
> > > spring. I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as
> last
> > year
> > > (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds). Then it wasn't
> working
> > again
> > > a week or so ago. I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I
> > would
> > > try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
> > >
> > > Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me
> and
> > the
> > > gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?) but the
> > compressor
> > > clutch wasn't engaging...
> > >
> > > I tried letting some pressure out thinking 

Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[Marshall Booth]

LarryT wrote:
A limo without AC?  Actually, *any* 1980 MB in N America without AC is a 
rarity!  Even in 1980 MB was loading all the options on their cars -


The stretch 123 was NEVER imported to the US by MB-USA. The ones here 
were usually European cars and no AC was common in Europe.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Ammonia?

[Desert Rat]

I know how to solve this real easily.

Just drop a note to your insurance company that you are using amonia
based refrigerant in your car.



On 6/19/06, ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Relax, Friends.

I don't think it is likely anyone will start using ammonia in automotive A/C
systems very soon.
But I've done a little engineering work with ammonia refrigeration.  And
ammonia can be dangerous.
But let's put it in perspective.  Many cars contain about 120 lbs of
gasoline.  A typical A/C unit would contain maybe 2 or 3 lbs of ammonia.
The heating value of gasoline is in the range of 20,000 BTU/lb.  Ammonia is
8,000 BTU/lb.  The UEL to LEL range for gasoline is 1.2% to 7.1%.  That
range for ammonia is 15% to 28%  (It is far easier to create and explosive
mixture of gasoline and air than ammonia and air.)

By my rectal estimate, you would be 150X more likely to get fried by the
gasoline in that car that t-bones your diesel, than by some ammonia in the
A/C system of your diesel.

(Interestingly - the the probablility of getting killed by inhaling or
igniting diesel fumes is so low, none of my references even disucss it.)

When I was a child, my father had my grandparents' original Fridgidaire
refrigerator in his office.  That thing had an ammonia charge.
We never thought about it being dangerous.  When its control circuit burned
out after 50 or 60 years of continuous service, it had never lost and ounce
of ammonia.   My father took it way -- way out back and cut one of the
refrigerant lines and ran.  When all the ammonia had all gone, he removed
the nice little 2 cylinder compressor and used it to fill tires ever since.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 143K "Stardust"
1985 380SL 143K "Blue Belle"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"

Re: [MBZ] Ammonia?

[ned kleinhenz]

Relax, Friends.

I don't think it is likely anyone will start using ammonia in automotive A/C
systems very soon.
But I've done a little engineering work with ammonia refrigeration.  And
ammonia can be dangerous.
But let's put it in perspective.  Many cars contain about 120 lbs of
gasoline.  A typical A/C unit would contain maybe 2 or 3 lbs of ammonia.
The heating value of gasoline is in the range of 20,000 BTU/lb.  Ammonia is
8,000 BTU/lb.  The UEL to LEL range for gasoline is 1.2% to 7.1%.  That
range for ammonia is 15% to 28%  (It is far easier to create and explosive
mixture of gasoline and air than ammonia and air.)

By my rectal estimate, you would be 150X more likely to get fried by the
gasoline in that car that t-bones your diesel, than by some ammonia in the
A/C system of your diesel.

(Interestingly - the the probablility of getting killed by inhaling or
igniting diesel fumes is so low, none of my references even disucss it.)

When I was a child, my father had my grandparents' original Fridgidaire
refrigerator in his office.  That thing had an ammonia charge.
We never thought about it being dangerous.  When its control circuit burned
out after 50 or 60 years of continuous service, it had never lost and ounce
of ammonia.   My father took it way -- way out back and cut one of the
refrigerant lines and ran.  When all the ammonia had all gone, he removed
the nice little 2 cylinder compressor and used it to fill tires ever since.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ammonia Refrigerant?

[Peter Frederick]

Around three lbs, maybe more for the required capacity.  Vented into 
the cabin, it will promptly kill the people in there.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ammonia Refrigerant?

[Peter Frederick]

A bit tricky, requires high pressure (1000 psi or so), but will run 
nicely off the exhaust heat.  The main problem is that the ammonia  is 
both highly toxic  and flamable (read explosive) when released.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[George Larribeau]

Don't forget that it has Crank Windows!  :)

God only knows what kind of condition that this is really in. Curious that 
no one pointed out that it has a trailer hitch. Visible in 2 photos). A limo 
anything pulling a U-haul would be a strange site.

4 me a manual tranny would have been the cudegra

George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[Ed Booher]

Don't forget that it has Crank Windows!  :)

On 6/20/06, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

A limo without AC?  Actually, *any* 1980 MB in N America without AC is a
rarity!  Even in 1980 MB was loading all the options on their cars -

Seems odd -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)



--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[John M McIntosh]

That's about 30 miles away, 60 or so by road.
I'm sure I've seen a number of cars for sale coming out of the lake  
area, likely the same collector.


On 20-Jun-06, at 4:42 AM, LarryT wrote:

A limo without AC?  Actually, *any* 1980 MB in N America without AC  
is a

rarity!  Even in 1980 MB was loading all the options on their cars -

Seems odd -


John
1983 300TDt  366k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  171k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 176k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)

Re: [MBZ] 240D rescued..

[Kevin]

On Mon, Jun 19, 2006 at 02:33:14PM -0400, Kevin J. Slater wrote:
> There are issues:
> 
> 1) Ignition tumbler is somewhat dicey at times, requiring the key to be
> pulled out just a bit to get it to turn.

You'll want to deal with this sooner than later so that it doesn't freeze on
you. There are two types of lock tumblers - in the 78 it comes out completely
different than what everyone describes for later 123s. If you run into 
problems getting it out send me a note and I'll describe how to get it out.
The CD isn't overly helpful.

> 2) Driver's side rear door is locked (?) shut as previously mentioned and
> can't be opened.

This is probably an effed up vaccuum lock pod stuck in the down position.
On a door with a key, this will prevent the key from turning.

> 3) Starter didn't engage a few times. I don't think it's the neutral
> safety switch and may be related to item 1)

Could be the neutral safety not thinking park was all the way in park or
something like that.

> 4) The front suspension seems to have negative camber. (I noticed this
> while following the car up a hill or two on the way home.) I don't know if
> this is right or worn rubber or something else.

The alignment guy will probably tell you that it needs all of the front
bushings replaced. Not hard to do.

> 5) The speedometer, odometer and trip odometer are inoperable. I think
> they did work on the initial visit. I have a 300D cluster I could swap in.
> Is it possible to substitute and is everything in a 240D for a working
> tach?

This could just be a cable being a bit loose, or a busted gear inside
the cluster. 300D would probably work, but if it was a turbo car, the
speed might be massively off. The tach will be a pain to hook up, as a
sensor and wiring under the hood will have to be added.

K

Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[LarryT]

A limo without AC?  Actually, *any* 1980 MB in N America without AC is a 
rarity!  Even in 1980 MB was loading all the options on their cars -


Seems odd -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
- Original Message - 
From: "Ed Booher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo



The auction ended around $2500, without tripping the reserve off. I
asked the seller what the reserve had been and all he had to say was
"Are you serious about buying?"

I'm thinking he's wanting more than what even the rarity is worth.
---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Mercedes-Benz-Limousine-300D-diesel-rare-Pullman_W0QQitemZ4648671042QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
---

--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

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Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

[LarryT]

There should be a 12v wire going into the back of the clutch housing.  I had 
the wire break off inside the clutch once and had to replace the wire - it's 
been 10+ years and I believe I may have replaced the clutch with one from 
AdvanceAuto -


I think I kept the clutch because it was a special order and I didn;t 
discover the broken wire until I'd picked up the replacement clutch.  (IIRC)


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
- Original Message - 
From: "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?



That was the next thing I wanted to verify.  The clutch is simply a 12v
electromagnet, correct?  So I should see 12V coming in on the connector, 
and
if I put an external 12v source to the compressor I should notice the 
clutch

moving, correct?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Potter, Tom E <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is
not
engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal for
the
low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.

So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch isn't
engaging?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or
> not?
> If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is
> reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum
> expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.
>
> ---Robert
>
> Levi Smith wrote:
> > OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it
this
> > spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as
last
> year
> > (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't
working
> again
> > a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I
> would
> > try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
> >
> > Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me
and
> the
> > gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the
> compressor
> > clutch wasn't engaging...
> >
> > I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much
> pressure,
> > but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the
> "normal"
> > level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the
danger
> > pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when
going
> > through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is
this
> a
> > sign of some other problem?
> >
> > What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
> > How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
> > Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to see
it
> > engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
> > The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse
issue
> > concerning the clutch...
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Levi
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] short in aux fan

[LarryT]

I've noticed some fans tend to be more difficult to turn than others. 
Perhaps a build up of dirt and debris making it difficult to turn - raising 
the resistance until the motor overheats trying to overcome the resistance 
until the fuse blow.


Maybe the fan can be cleaned?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 3:30 PM
Subject: [MBZ] short in aux fan



Hello All,

I posted about this in the past and haven't really figured out how to 
approach it.  I am not sure how to track down the short or to determine if 
the fan is bad.  I have a volt meter and the schematic for the car.  A few 
people made comments, one that this car may go through a few fans it its 
lifetime but I don't want to just run out and buy a fan if I don't need 
it.


"I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other day 
and wanted to get that fixed.  The fan has never been plugged in and the 
AC has not worked since I got the car.  After I plugged it in as soon as I 
started the car it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped.  I noticed 
that it had blown a fuse.  Other point of interest is that on the repair 
information from previous owner it says "conversion to r134a, wire aux fan 
to run constantly". "


Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 97kmi

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Re: [MBZ] short in aux fan

[Levi Smith]

Follow the cord from the motor.  As I recall, it goes along one of the
support braces, the connector is perhaps right behind the radiator bracket?
Somewhere in that vicinity...

Levi

On 6/19/06, ernest breakfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


as an aside; where is said connector? my Aux Fan ('85 300D) recently blew
a fuse then went intermittent, and i'd like to do a little troubleshooting
of my own,...


cheers!
e


> You should be able to test the fan by simply hooking up 12v directly to
> the
> connector.  You can either run wires from the battery, or get another
> power
> source like an "non-smart" battery charger or a jump-start pack, etc.
>
> If it started and then blew the fuse, it sounds like it's at the upper
> limit
> of it's wear/power draw.  From what I've heard the aux fan and the
blower
> fan tend to blow fuses when they get old.  Apparently there's  a service
> bulletin on running larger wire with a larger fuse...
>
> Levi
>
> On 6/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> I posted about this in the past and haven't really figured out how to
>> approach it.  I am not sure how to track down the short or to determine
>> if
>> the fan is bad.  I have a volt meter and the schematic for the car.  A
>> few
>> people made comments, one that this car may go through a few fans it
its
>> lifetime but I don't want to just run out and buy a fan if I don't need
>> it.
>>
>> "I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other
>> day
>> and wanted to get that fixed.  The fan has never been plugged in and
the
>> AC
>> has not worked since I got the car.  After I plugged it in as soon as I
>> started the car it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped.  I
noticed
>> that it had blown a fuse.  Other point of interest is that on the
repair
>> information from previous owner it says "conversion to r134a, wire aux
>> fan
>> to run constantly". "
>>
>> Any insight would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dan Elliott
>> 82 300D-T 97kmi
>>

>> Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and
>> industry-leading
>> spam and email virus protection.
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>


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Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[andrew strasfogel]

Slightly more involved means what, please?  Heavy tool use required?
Average mechanical intelligence?  The abiity to work responsibly, using
common sense??
Extreme physical strength?


On 6/19/06, John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


andrew strasfogel wrote:

> 1) replace a missing rear bumper end piece (on the side - curves around
the
> rear quarter panel) on a 1983 300TD

Slightly more involved than:

> 2) Replacing the engine shut-off valve because the engine is starting to
run
> for more than a few seconds after I turn it off (1985 300CD).

...which is pretty darn easy.

--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 180+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
1972 220 278+kmi

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Re: [MBZ] short in aux fan

[ernest breakfield]

as an aside; where is said connector? my Aux Fan ('85 300D) recently blew
a fuse then went intermittent, and i'd like to do a little troubleshooting
of my own,...


cheers!
e


> You should be able to test the fan by simply hooking up 12v directly to
> the
> connector.  You can either run wires from the battery, or get another
> power
> source like an "non-smart" battery charger or a jump-start pack, etc.
>
> If it started and then blew the fuse, it sounds like it's at the upper
> limit
> of it's wear/power draw.  From what I've heard the aux fan and the blower
> fan tend to blow fuses when they get old.  Apparently there's  a service
> bulletin on running larger wire with a larger fuse...
>
> Levi
>
> On 6/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> I posted about this in the past and haven't really figured out how to
>> approach it.  I am not sure how to track down the short or to determine
>> if
>> the fan is bad.  I have a volt meter and the schematic for the car.  A
>> few
>> people made comments, one that this car may go through a few fans it its
>> lifetime but I don't want to just run out and buy a fan if I don't need
>> it.
>>
>> "I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other
>> day
>> and wanted to get that fixed.  The fan has never been plugged in and the
>> AC
>> has not worked since I got the car.  After I plugged it in as soon as I
>> started the car it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped.  I noticed
>> that it had blown a fuse.  Other point of interest is that on the repair
>> information from previous owner it says "conversion to r134a, wire aux
>> fan
>> to run constantly". "
>>
>> Any insight would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dan Elliott
>> 82 300D-T 97kmi
>> 
>> Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and
>> industry-leading
>> spam and email virus protection.
>> ___
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>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

Re: [MBZ] short in aux fan

[Levi Smith]

You should be able to test the fan by simply hooking up 12v directly to the
connector.  You can either run wires from the battery, or get another power
source like an "non-smart" battery charger or a jump-start pack, etc.

If it started and then blew the fuse, it sounds like it's at the upper limit
of it's wear/power draw.  From what I've heard the aux fan and the blower
fan tend to blow fuses when they get old.  Apparently there's  a service
bulletin on running larger wire with a larger fuse...

Levi

On 6/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hello All,

I posted about this in the past and haven't really figured out how to
approach it.  I am not sure how to track down the short or to determine if
the fan is bad.  I have a volt meter and the schematic for the car.  A few
people made comments, one that this car may go through a few fans it its
lifetime but I don't want to just run out and buy a fan if I don't need it.

"I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other day
and wanted to get that fixed.  The fan has never been plugged in and the AC
has not worked since I got the car.  After I plugged it in as soon as I
started the car it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped.  I noticed
that it had blown a fuse.  Other point of interest is that on the repair
information from previous owner it says "conversion to r134a, wire aux fan
to run constantly". "

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 97kmi

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[MBZ] short in aux fan

[dieselbenz24]

Hello All, 
 
I posted about this in the past and haven't really figured out how to approach 
it.  I am not sure how to track down the short or to determine if the fan is 
bad.  I have a volt meter and the schematic for the car.  A few people made 
comments, one that this car may go through a few fans it its lifetime but I 
don't want to just run out and buy a fan if I don't need it.
 
"I noticed that my auxillary cooling fan was not plugged in the other day and 
wanted to get that fixed.  The fan has never been plugged in and the AC has not 
worked since I got the car.  After I plugged it in as soon as I started the car 
it ran for about 15 seconds and then stopped.  I noticed that it had blown a 
fuse.  Other point of interest is that on the repair information from previous 
owner it says "conversion to r134a, wire aux fan to run constantly". "
 
Any insight would be appreciated.
 
Thanks,
 
Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 97kmi

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and email virus protection.

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ammonia Refrigerant?

[George Larribeau]

Gee, I remember about 20 years ago being in an evacuation of a good
sized chunk of a town in upstate NY when the ammonia cycle system at the
cold storage I was delivering to sprung a leak. Couldn't go near the
place for a couple of days till it was *safe* ( and we were still
choking anywhere near the place )
Those systems work great, but...


Yeh Yeh Yeh , ammonia is nasty stuff however when there is a leak requiring 
an evacuation in an ammonia plant one is usually talking about a big 
refrigerator that could have thousands (or more) of gallons of ammonia in 
it. I know that an absorption refrigerator uses two gases, ammonia and 
hydrogen and are still used in the RV market. So it is not unprecedented in 
a 'mobile environment'. Would a car need so much ammonia that that the 
hazard could not be contained?


George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K

Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

[Potter, Tom E]

I am assuming this is the GM style compressor. The clutch is truly just
an electromagnet. There should be a two-wire connector to the clutch.
One should be 12 volts with the ignition switch in ON position; the
other leads to ground through the switching system.

Pull the two-wire connector off the clutch and check to see if you have
12 volts to it with the ignition switch in the ON position. Check the
other lead to see if it goes to ground.

If the leads check out, test the clutch. Connect a jumper wire from the
battery to the clutch connector that the live lead was on. Connect
another jumper wire to the other connector and touch one end to a good
ground. If the clutch is OK, it will engage. You will hear a CLACK when
it engages.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

That was the next thing I wanted to verify.  The clutch is simply a 12v
electromagnet, correct?  So I should see 12V coming in on the connector,
and
if I put an external 12v source to the compressor I should notice the
clutch
moving, correct?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Potter, Tom E <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?
>
> Tom Potter
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?
>
> Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is
> not
> engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal
for
> the
> low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.
>
> So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch
isn't
> engaging?
>
> Thanks,
> Levi
>
> On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning
or
> > not?
> > If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side
is
> > reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a
bum
> > expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.
> >
> > ---Robert
> >
> > Levi Smith wrote:
> > > OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it
> this
> > > spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as
> last
> > year
> > > (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't
> working
> > again
> > > a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured
I
> > would
> > > try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
> > >
> > > Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me
> and
> > the
> > > gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the
> > compressor
> > > clutch wasn't engaging...
> > >
> > > I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much
> > pressure,
> > > but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the
> > "normal"
> > > level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the
> danger
> > > pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when
> going
> > > through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is
> this
> > a
> > > sign of some other problem?
> > >
> > > What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
> > > How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
> > > Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to
see
> it
> > > engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
> > > The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse
> issue
> > > concerning the clutch...
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Levi
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ___
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> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who....../BT4 in M37

[John Berryman]

On Jun 19, 2006, at 1:39 PM, Smith, Todd wrote:

  I don't have any clues as what to look for but if this one fails  
then no more "remanned" starters for me.  When I am under the truck  
with my wife turning the key, there is a loud click as the starter  
tries to engage but no bendix movement.


	The "integral" solenoid is more likely than not, the problem. It is  
responsible for pulling in the bendix-drive and putting the juice to  
the motor. Sometimes, the disc inside the solenoid can be flipped and  
contact is improved as there should be no pitting, due to arcing on  
the other side of the contact disc.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

Yes, jump the wire to the clutch , it sould make a firm click when it 
engages , let it run on high for a few minutes and then check the pressure.
Obviously, if you jump the wire and the clutch does not engage then the 
problem is mechanical.


--Robert

Levi Smith wrote:

That was the next thing I wanted to verify.  The clutch is simply a 12v
electromagnet, correct?  So I should see 12V coming in on the connector, and
if I put an external 12v source to the compressor I should notice the clutch
moving, correct?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Potter, Tom E <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  

Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is
not
engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal for
the
low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.

So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch isn't
engaging?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or
not?
If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is
reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum
expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.

---Robert

Levi Smith wrote:
  

OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it


this


spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as


last


year
  

(it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't


working


again
  

a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I


would
  

try one more time and see if it still leaked out.

Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me


and


the
  

gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the


compressor
  

clutch wasn't engaging...

I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much


pressure,
  

but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the


"normal"
  

level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the


danger


pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when


going


through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is


this


a
  

sign of some other problem?

What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to see


it


engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse


issue


concerning the clutch...

Thanks!
Levi
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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who....../BT4 in M37

[Smith, Todd]

Hello Robert,

I hope that it just a bad rebuilder but we will see in a few days so see if it 
outlasts the others before problems start.  I may have to try a different 
starter or source an OEM to see if it makes a difference.

Todd Smith '85 300CD 248K

[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robert & Tara Ludwick
As many of those engines that were used for delivery vehicles, I can't 
imagine why they would have a problem with starters.
Could it just be a poor quality rebuilder?

Robert

[MBZ] 240D rescued..

[Kevin J. Slater]

Hey dieselers,

Just wanted to provide a quick trip report from my 'mastadon hunting'
adventure over the weekend. My 16 y/o son and I went down to Richmond to
retrieve a 1979 240D that had been sitting for the better part of a year
since it was last started. Although the car had been well taken care of
earlier in life, it had fallen into that state where the crusher was the
likely next step.

A couple of weeks back we went down and got it started and drove it around
briefly to make sure we weren't buying a clapped out expense pit. (Maybe
we still have, only time will tell.) It took a new battery and lots of
goading but we got it started spewing a huge cloud of unburnt diesel smoke
to the applause of the assembled neighbors and the seller. We left $40
deposit and pulled our new battery and headed home to decide whether to
pull the trigger or not.

This past Friday we dropped in paid for it - the balance of $500; used a
few washers to fix the right wiper arm; replaced the battery with our new
one; put a tiger muffler wrap on the rusted out part of the exhaust
downpipe (the rest of the exhaust is < 1 year old); cleaned out the trunk
and dropped in the spare we took down; found the original spare in a pile
of weeds and threw that in; replaced most of the right side bulbs; headed
to the Va DMV to get a $5 trip permit to take her home semi-legally (with
no plates); put a can of diesel purge in the tank; filled her with fresh
diesel; took her to the wand-car wash and hosed and scrubbed off 1 years+
worth of dirt and debris; and finally drove her north to Mars, Pa.

A veritable 'walk-in-the-park' to quote Johnny B.

There are issues:

1) Ignition tumbler is somewhat dicey at times, requiring the key to be
pulled out just a bit to get it to turn.

2) Driver's side rear door is locked (?) shut as previously mentioned and
can't be opened.

3) Starter didn't engage a few times. I don't think it's the neutral
safety switch and may be related to item 1)

4) The front suspension seems to have negative camber. (I noticed this
while following the car up a hill or two on the way home.) I don't know if
this is right or worn rubber or something else.

5) The speedometer, odometer and trip odometer are inoperable. I think
they did work on the initial visit. I have a 300D cluster I could swap in.
Is it possible to substitute and is everything in a 240D for a working
tach?

The car has about 15x,000 miles. The transmissions shifts well with no
hesitation. All in all, even SWMBO, agrees it's a good fit for our first
16 y/o driver. (My wife almost admitted to liking it.) I can shoot and
post pictures if anyone is interested.

Thanks to Larry for putting us onto this car - Larry you can let Gary know
the car will be put back in proper running order. Thanks also to Marshall
for the tip on the Va. trip permit.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi
79 240D 156k mi

[MBZ] Ammonia?

[Frederick Moir]

Are you NUTS?
  The seafront of Gloucester MA underwent explosive urban renewal! Luckily it 
was early Sunday morning and the collection of bars, cafe's and er 'massage 
parlors' were empty when they dissappeared as the block long cold storage blew 
up. There was still, in the 90's, one ammonia cold storage plant, and when they 
sprang a leak, it was like an air raid was imminent and a mad scramble to gain 
a safe distance! NOT for cars, No! No! Hell NO!
  Fred Moir
  Lynn MA
  BTDT
  Diesel Rules!


-
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That was the next thing I wanted to verify.  The clutch is simply a 12v
electromagnet, correct?  So I should see 12V coming in on the connector, and
if I put an external 12v source to the compressor I should notice the clutch
moving, correct?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Potter, Tom E <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?
>
> Tom Potter
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?
>
> Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is
> not
> engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal for
> the
> low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.
>
> So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch isn't
> engaging?
>
> Thanks,
> Levi
>
> On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or
> > not?
> > If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is
> > reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum
> > expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.
> >
> > ---Robert
> >
> > Levi Smith wrote:
> > > OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it
> this
> > > spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as
> last
> > year
> > > (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't
> working
> > again
> > > a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I
> > would
> > > try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
> > >
> > > Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me
> and
> > the
> > > gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the
> > compressor
> > > clutch wasn't engaging...
> > >
> > > I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much
> > pressure,
> > > but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the
> > "normal"
> > > level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the
> danger
> > > pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when
> going
> > > through the expansion valve without the compressor running

Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

[Potter, Tom E]

Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is
not
engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal for
the
low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.

So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch isn't
engaging?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or
> not?
> If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is
> reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum
> expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.
>
> ---Robert
>
> Levi Smith wrote:
> > OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it
this
> > spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as
last
> year
> > (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't
working
> again
> > a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I
> would
> > try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
> >
> > Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me
and
> the
> > gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the
> compressor
> > clutch wasn't engaging...
> >
> > I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much
> pressure,
> > but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the
> "normal"
> > level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the
danger
> > pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when
going
> > through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is
this
> a
> > sign of some other problem?
> >
> > What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
> > How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
> > Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to see
it
> > engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
> > The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse
issue
> > concerning the clutch...
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Levi
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

[Levi Smith]

Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is not
engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal for the
low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.

So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch isn't
engaging?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or
not?
If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is
reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum
expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.

---Robert

Levi Smith wrote:
> OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it this
> spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as last
year
> (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't working
again
> a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I
would
> try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
>
> Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me and
the
> gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the
compressor
> clutch wasn't engaging...
>
> I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much
pressure,
> but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the
"normal"
> level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the danger
> pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when going
> through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is this
a
> sign of some other problem?
>
> What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
> How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
> Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to see it
> engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
> The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse issue
> concerning the clutch...
>
> Thanks!
> Levi
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>


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Re: [MBZ] Audiophiles

[George Larribeau]

>> Tarek Elshenawy wrote:
>> > >From my receiver (Blaupunkt Miami CD72) I would like to put in a
>> > >2x120 Watt
>> > amplifier and keep the factory fader switch to avoid rewiring the
>> > speakers. The million dollar question: Will the fader switch handle
>> > the increased power?

In my 85 300SD the fader is a 'L-pas' like gisimo that splits the output of 
the radio to the front and rear speakers. I yours is like that it will not 
handle hi power ( it will smoke the fader). If this type of this thing is 
necessary, one solution would be separate (possibly smaller ) booster 
amplifiers for front and rear. They would need to be configured as to being 
driven from the speaker output of the source. It may be necessary to place a 
load resistor (8 ohms) at the inputs of the each booster amplifier to get 
the fader to work. Do not drive the fader with more power that the stock 
radio.

George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
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As many of those engines that were used for delivery vehicles, I can't 
imagine why they would have a problem with starters.
Could it just be a poor quality rebuilder?

Robert

Smith, Todd wrote:
> Hello Curt,
>
> The problem with the starters is somewhat troubling but as of yet, no real 
> conclusions.  The failure mode for the first was a slowly degenerating 
> condition in which it would just "click" when you turn the key to start.  I 
> would turn the key back and try again and it would start.  My first thought 
> was starter solenoid but the starter and solenoid are a integrated unit and 
> the condition within a few days become a dead starter. The second starter 
> abruptly failed and it lasted less then a week before it failed abruptly.  
> Taking the starter off and having it tested showed that it didn't move the 
> bendix at all.  After playing with the toggle switch on the test station at 
> the local FLAPS, it eventually caused the bendix to pop in and out but only 
> after a half-dozen tries.  I don't have any clues as what to look for but if 
> this one fails then no more "remanned" starters for me.  When I am under the 
> truck with my wife turning the key, there is a loud click as the starter 
> tries to engage but no bendix movement.
>
> Kevin's website is http://4btconversions.com and you need to call him for 
> pricing but I believe that around $15K is what he is charging for a turnkey.  
> A little less for some options and little more for some options.  I believe 
> that he hasn't taken the pictures for mine down yet so the white '97 F-150 is 
> mine.  So far, his service has been really good and honestly much better then 
> any local dealer given the starter issues I have had.
>
> Kevin' turned up the fuel delivery on the IP on the truck and replaced the 
> 4BT industrial injectors with the 6BT injectors since they are a little bit 
> bigger with a better spray pattern.  I haven't had it dynoed but he is 
> claiming 160HP and 330 ft/lb of torque.
>
> Todd Smith '85 300CD 248K
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Curt Raymond
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 13:06
> To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37
>
>
> Hi Todd,
>   
> Thats great news! Any idea why the starters won't last? Do you know what kind 
> of HP/Torque your engine is putting out? How about how much the truck weighs?
>
>   I

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ammonia Refrigerant?

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

Gee, I remember about 20 years ago being in an evacuation of a good 
sized chunk of a town in upstate NY when the ammonia cycle system at the 
cold storage I was delivering to sprung a leak. Couldn't go near the 
place for a couple of days till it was *safe* ( and we were still 
choking anywhere near the place )

Those systems work great, but...

---Robert

George Larribeau wrote:

Besides the slight inconvenience of having to jump out of your car at 100 if 
you get a leak (remember the ejector seat in 007's DB5), has any one heard of 
crazies attempting to use ammonia refrigerant in a car? I know the stuff is 
very efficient however I believe it is extremely corrosive.

George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
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Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning or not?
If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side is 
reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a bum 
expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.


---Robert

Levi Smith wrote:

OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it this
spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as last year
(it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't working again
a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I would
try one more time and see if it still leaked out.

Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me and the
gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the compressor
clutch wasn't engaging...

I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much pressure,
but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the "normal"
level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the danger
pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when going
through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is this a
sign of some other problem?

What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to see it
engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse issue
concerning the clutch...

Thanks!
Levi
___
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Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[Ed Booher]

He thinks it's a 600 Pullman, I think. 30K if mint? Sure it's a limo,
but it's mechanically a W123, right? It isn't like the 600's with
hydralics on *everything* is it?

---
From: Elly Ruge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Jun 19, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: 1980 MB 300D Pullman
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


$8000  will take it today

very little rust ,  i did not touch it up  on poropse so people can see what
they are getting

if it was mint it would be $30,000

mechanicaly it is mint
---


--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] Ebay Canadian 300d Limo

[Ed Booher]

The auction ended around $2500, without tripping the reserve off. I
asked the seller what the reserve had been and all he had to say was
"Are you serious about buying?"

I'm thinking he's wanting more than what even the rarity is worth.
---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Mercedes-Benz-Limousine-300D-diesel-rare-Pullman_W0QQitemZ4648671042QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
---

--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who....../BT4 in M37

[Smith, Todd]

Hello Curt,

The problem with the starters is somewhat troubling but as of yet, no real 
conclusions.  The failure mode for the first was a slowly degenerating 
condition in which it would just "click" when you turn the key to start.  I 
would turn the key back and try again and it would start.  My first thought was 
starter solenoid but the starter and solenoid are a integrated unit and the 
condition within a few days become a dead starter. The second starter abruptly 
failed and it lasted less then a week before it failed abruptly.  Taking the 
starter off and having it tested showed that it didn't move the bendix at all.  
After playing with the toggle switch on the test station at the local FLAPS, it 
eventually caused the bendix to pop in and out but only after a half-dozen 
tries.  I don't have any clues as what to look for but if this one fails then 
no more "remanned" starters for me.  When I am under the truck with my wife 
turning the key, there is a loud click as the starter tries to engage but no 
bendix movement.

Kevin's website is http://4btconversions.com and you need to call him for 
pricing but I believe that around $15K is what he is charging for a turnkey.  A 
little less for some options and little more for some options.  I believe that 
he hasn't taken the pictures for mine down yet so the white '97 F-150 is mine.  
So far, his service has been really good and honestly much better then any 
local dealer given the starter issues I have had.

Kevin' turned up the fuel delivery on the IP on the truck and replaced the 4BT 
industrial injectors with the 6BT injectors since they are a little bit bigger 
with a better spray pattern.  I haven't had it dynoed but he is claiming 160HP 
and 330 ft/lb of torque.

Todd Smith '85 300CD 248K



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 13:06
To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37


Hi Todd,
  
Thats great news! Any idea why the starters won't last? Do you know what kind 
of HP/Torque your engine is putting out? How about how much the truck weighs?
   
  I'm thinking this is a brilliant swap, any idea how much he'll charge for 
them? I'd definately be interested in that kind of mileage in a fullsize pickup.
   
  -Curt
 

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Curt Raymond]

Ever have one? Try riding a lawnmower or snowmobile into a truck that has a 
cap... Plus if you haul brush or such you really need to take the cap off.
  Then if its winter and this is a snowmobiling trip the snowmobile in the back 
will have snow on it, which will get on your luggage, that and most snowmobiles 
are long enough you need to leave the tailgate open thus negating 40-50% of the 
cap.
   
  A month ago when we went to camp we too my Cub Cadet, lawn cart, backblade, 
cultivator and disc all with us, the cart was on top of the cub cadet upside 
down. Couldn't have done that with a cap on. Good thing we could put the 
luggage in the extended cab.
   
  So to make a long concept a little longer, if you need to haul stuff and 
people, or stuff and luggage, an extended cab truck makes alot of sense. Using 
one for a daily driver might not make sense. It does for us, since we can only 
have 2 cars (nowhere to park more) and my wife only goes a few miles every day.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 12:08:47 -0400
From: John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed


On Jun 19, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

> The problem with a single cab is theres nowhere to put your luggage.

 What about putting a cap on it?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



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Hi Todd,
  
Thats great news! Any idea why the starters won't last? Do you know what kind 
of HP/Torque your engine is putting out? How about how much the truck weighs?
   
  I'm thinking this is a brilliant swap, any idea how much he'll charge for 
them? I'd definately be interested in that kind of mileage in a fullsize pickup.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 12:47:18 -0400
From: "Smith, Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello Curt,

I have the F-150 with the 4BT in and I like pretty well.  The biggest 
problem has been starters and I am on my third one now.  All still under 
warranty but still pretty annoying.  My wife and son and his friend 
drove to Cedar Point, OH from WV to ride some killer roller coasters and 
was averaging about 28.8-30MPG  with cruise running and the A/C on.

Kevin, the builder, has learned from my prototype and is improving the 
next one which is a black '99 F-150 4x4 but I like my well enough.

Todd Smith '85 300CD 248K



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Re: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won theLeMans 24h !!"

[David Brodbeck]

LarryT wrote:
> The ACO which organizes LeMans has changed the 
> rules to require the original case be used through-out the race - now, Audi 
> must replace the bad parts and continue to use the case used to qualify 
> with.

I think I read that Audi dealt with this by redesigning the trans so
most of the critical gears are contained in a "cartridge" that can be
quickly removed and replaced.

The basic problem is the Audi turbodiesel is developing the same level
of horsepower as a gasoline racing engine, but at less than half the
RPM, so they've got truly massive torque levels to deal with.

Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Luther Gulseth]

And it'll cost him more to get the car than he pays for it. If he only 
ran BioD, then it'd be cheap to get.

Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 02:31:14 -0400 "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> 
> > did i miss something?  what's the joke?
> 
> It was too far away and he accidentally won it.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[David Brodbeck]

John Berryman wrote:
> On Jun 19, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>   
>> The problem with a single cab is theres nowhere to put your luggage.
>> 
>
>   What about putting a cap on it?
>   

That's fine, unless you're planning on hauling a 5th wheel.

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Hummer's a DOG!

[David Brodbeck]

Mike Canfield wrote:
> And you think the H1 has enough power with the 6.5  The Hummer is a DOG 
> with that engine.  Seems the military would be smart enough by now to use a 
> Cummins.
>   

I'd guess freeway speed wasn't their major concern.  Military vehicles
are almost always slow by civilian standards.

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ammonia Refrigerant?

[Christopher McCann]

I recall Rudolf Diesel wanting to exhibit an ammonia refrigerator at (I  forget 
which) World's Fair but being denied due to safety concerns. The  idea for his 
"Rational Heat Engine" as he called it and a Diesel engine  as everyone else 
calls it, grew from his experience with compressing  gases...which also landed 
him a job working for Carl von Linden, an  expert in liquifying gasses and 
pioneer of refrigeration (though not  it's inventor):
  
  "German  engineer Carl von Linden, patented not a refrigerator but the 
process of  liquifying gas in 1876 that is part of basic refrigeration 
technology."
  
  Interestingly, von Linden chastized our dear Rudolf for wasting his  time 
perfecting a method of creating perfectly clear ice which was  quite the rage 
among the Paris elite. All this came before the design  of the 
engine...although he was fascinated with engine design from his  youth. An 
interesting concommitance of interests which led to the  compression ignition 
engine as we - more or less - know it today.
  
  Anyway, an interesting aside.
  
  CM
  
George Larribeau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Besides  the slight inconvenience of 
having to jump out of your car at 100 if  you get a leak (remember the ejector 
seat in 007's DB5), has any one  heard of crazies attempting to use ammonia 
refrigerant in a car? I know  the stuff is very efficient however I believe it 
is extremely corrosive.

George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 345K km, "Wulf"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

"Mercedes Diesel: Die Motorleistung wird mit dem Kilometerzähler gemessen."

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] value of a 1987 190D 2.5T
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I offered $2300 for one here in Austin several months ago. 200Kmi.
Needed a complete front end rebuild as well as rear subframe mounts.
Had a little trouble tracking a straight line down the road. Ran well,
but needed some pretty serious cosmetic help. Seller turned my offer
down thinking he could get north of $3000. Maybe he did. Haven't seen
it advertised in a while.


Gary Thompson
1995 E320


On 6/17/06, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Given their rarity, how much are people actually paying for these cars?
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who....../BT4 in M37

[Smith, Todd]

Hello Curt,

I have the F-150 with the 4BT in and I like pretty well.  The biggest problem 
has been starters and I am on my third one now.  All still under warranty but 
still pretty annoying.  My wife and son and his friend drove to Cedar Point, OH 
from WV to ride some killer roller coasters and was averaging about 28.8-30MPG  
with cruise running and the A/C on.

Kevin, the builder, has learned from my prototype and is improving the next one 
which is a black '99 F-150 4x4 but I like my well enough.

Todd Smith '85 300CD 248K

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 10:44
To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37


Apparently the 4BT in an M37 is a fairly popular swap. Theres a guy online whom 
I can't find now that does them with a brand new engine reportedly getting 
130HP which doesn't sound exciting but 300+lb/ft of torque sure does. I 
defiantely want to try one in a Scout, replace the anemic 110hp Nissan diesel 
with some power...
   
  Who was it was getting one put in an F150? I'm still dying to know how that 
comes out.
   
  -Curt
   

Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat

[Marshall Booth]

Tom Scordato wrote:
Manuala calls for the little notches to be lined up properlly on those 
thermos.  I do not know if it makes a difference.  When I did my 1977 300D 
it also ran a bit hotter, but I also change the fluid to the G-5 stuff at 
the same time from a standard prestone green/Tom


Any time you change out a thermostat that hasn't been fully closing, the 
engine WILL run a bit hotter. That is NOT a fault, it's a feature and 
one that desirable.


Thermostats are designed to PREVENT cooling, not to improve cooling. 
Once the thermostat is open all the way (that 8+ mm at 94 deg C in a 123 
diesel) it can do NOTHING more and then it's up to the air through the 
radiator driven by the speed of the vehicle and the engine fan as well 
as the volume of coolant driven by the water pump to cool the engine. 
The thermostat makes NO further contribution.


If the thermostat opens 8+ mm at 94 deg. C but the engine is running too 
hot, it's caused by something OTHER than the thermostat.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[John Berryman]

On Jun 19, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:


The problem with a single cab is theres nowhere to put your luggage.


What about putting a cap on it?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

[MBZ] OT - Ammonia Refrigerant?

[George Larribeau]

Besides the slight inconvenience of having to jump out of your car at 100 if 
you get a leak (remember the ejector seat in 007's DB5), has any one heard of 
crazies attempting to use ammonia refrigerant in a car? I know the stuff is 
very efficient however I believe it is extremely corrosive.

George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K

Re: [MBZ] No speedo - 1990 300TE

[John Berryman]

On Jun 18, 2006, at 1:34 PM, Wakin's wrote:


Is there a trick to installing the new one?

Thanks

Dave Wakin


	Not really, the new cable should come with a "grommet" attached to  
it. Most of the work will be done by the firewall, feeding it into  
the cabin and down to the trans.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] 1982 w126 300sd -- coolant temp sensor wiring

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 6/18/2006 1:08:12 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  coolant temp sensor (the one in the T-stat housing) isn't current hooked
to  anything, and there isn't an obvious orphan wire under the hood.

Where  should I be wiring it up to?

Also, just to confirm, that IS the sensor  that controls the auxiliary
electric fan,  correct?



Mac,
 
My 79 300SD, a 116 chassis, has the sensor you describe.  The wire  comes 
from a group that is running forward on the frame rail, below the air  cleaner 
and battery.  It is probably brown, or maybe brown with a  stripe of color, as 
it merely grounds through the sensor when the temperature  setting is reached.
 
Does your aux fan run as soon as the key is turned to the run  position?  If 
so, the PO may have cut the tip connector off and grounded it  to the frame 
somewhere convenient.
 
Good luck,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Steve MacSween]

on 6/19/06 10:13 AM, Craig McCluskey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 02:31:14 -0400 "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> 
>> did i miss something?  what's the joke?
> 
> It was too far away and he accidentally won it.

Accidentally? There were 28 bids!

Kaleb! Switch to espresso! QUICK! LOL

Methinks the man doth protest too much... I think many of Kaleb's, e,
acquisitions, are "accidents".

ROTLMAO

Mac

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who....../BT4 in M37

[Curt Raymond]

Apparently the 4BT in an M37 is a fairly popular swap. Theres a guy online whom 
I can't find now that does them with a brand new engine reportedly getting 
130HP which doesn't sound exciting but 300+lb/ft of torque sure does. I 
defiantely want to try one in a Scout, replace the anemic 110hp Nissan diesel 
with some power...
   
  Who was it was getting one put in an F150? I'm still dying to know how that 
comes out.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 09:00:48 -0400
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who../BT4 in M37
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
 reply-type=original

Philip,
  Yep a BT4 would be sweet.  I have been thinking of swapping in a MBZ 
diesel.  I found a 76 240D 4 speed with only 65K DOCUMENTED original 
miles 
but am afraid it will be too gutless for the old war machine.  The 
original 
230 puts out around 77HP at 3200 and 140LB-FT of torque at 1200.
  Maybe a 5 cyl turbo would have enough but I really want to stick with 
a 
manual tranny.

Mike



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] ooops
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Q:  hi i was wondering if i can file for a lost title for it thanks
richJun-13-06
A:  A lost title cannot be filed.

The buyer (Kaleb) can not file for a lost title on this vehicle? The
seller is unwilling to sign a bill of sale, or what?

Ed

On 6/19/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 02:31:14 -0400 "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > did i miss something?  what's the joke?
>
> It was too far away and he accidentally won it.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>


-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Mike Canfield]

Not true here in NY.  When the INS co. checks the VIN they know it is a 
wrecker or rollback and will only write a policy that reflects the risk of 
car hauling.  Commercial use is even highr like you said.  NY insurance 
rules SUCK!


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?



Im not talking about a rollback or a wrecker.  Even if it was a rollback
or wrecker, if its not for hire the insurance is no different than any
other car.

Mike Canfield wrote:

Until you figure in the special high priced insurance for a vehicle 
designed

to haul cars.

Rollbacks and wreckers are way high.

Mike



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Curt Raymond]

'96 Dodge Dakota v8 extended cab, purchase price $16k in '99. 190k miles on it 
now.
   
  You ever spend much time driving a single cab pickup? The biggest problem is 
that theres no place to put stuff that can't live in the bed. We take the 
Dakota to camp where its the primary mover off stuff, we also use it to haul 
snowmobiles around. The problem with a single cab is theres nowhere to put your 
luggage. The Dakota regularly gets around 18mpg which is interestingly the same 
as my friends with v6 Dakota's report.
  I know, real men only need an overnight bag but the wife wants clothes for 
every condition and I can't imagine if we had kids.
   
  That said the Dakota replacement is likely to be a fullsize single cab with a 
cap tall enough to fit snowmobiles under. The newer fullsize singlecabs get 
decent mileage.
  If I can find one for a reasonable price I'll get a little Toyota but that'd 
have to be an extended cab, not enough space in the bed for a snowmobile and 
luggage...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 20:02:44 -0400
From: John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed


I just gotta ask,
 What do you guys "need" these huge expensive trucks for? I feel  
trucks were intended to be used for work. Trucks with back seats cost  
more to purchase and run, lengthen wheelbase resulting in lousy  
turning radii and were intended to haul your tools, equipment,  
materials and work crew.
  *SNIP*


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Subject: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?
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OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it this
spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as last year
(it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't working again
a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured I would
try one more time and see if it still leaked out.

Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me and the
gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the compressor
clutch wasn't engaging...

I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much pressure,
but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the "normal"
level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the danger
pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when going
through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is this a
sign of some other problem?

What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to see it
engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse issue
concerning the clutch...

Thanks!
Levi

Re: [MBZ] 240D Turbo

[Craig McCluskey]

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 07:36:59 -0400 John Ingram <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> However, I'd like to have a 4-speed, which can be done.

And has been done ...

--- 
Craig McCluskey

Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 227 kmi
   Past: 1964 190Dc
 1972 220D/8
 1972 220/8
 1987 190E/2.3

 /"\   
 \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN   "Friends don't send friends
  X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email."
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   http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
  http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

Re: [MBZ] Audiophiles

[Craig McCluskey]

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:56:20 -0700 David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tarek Elshenawy wrote:
> > >From my receiver (Blaupunkt Miami CD72) I would like to put in a
> > >2x120 Watt
> > amplifier and keep the factory fader switch to avoid rewiring the
> > speakers. The million dollar question: Will the fader switch handle
> > the increased power?
> >   
> 
> I seriously doubt it.  However, if you bypass the fader by splicing the
> wires in the center console, you can probably avoid replacing most of
> the wiring.

Or disconnect the plug from the fader and poke jumper wires in it. If
needs be, get another fader, short it internally, and use it as a means to
connect to the plug on the cable.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Craig McCluskey]

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 02:31:14 -0400 "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> did i miss something?  what's the joke?

It was too far away and he accidentally won it.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[John Ervine]

andrew strasfogel wrote:


1) replace a missing rear bumper end piece (on the side - curves around the
rear quarter panel) on a 1983 300TD


Slightly more involved than:


2) Replacing the engine shut-off valve because the engine is starting to run
for more than a few seconds after I turn it off (1985 300CD).


...which is pretty darn easy.

--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 180+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
1972 220 278+kmi

Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I still have not come across one of those.

andrew strasfogel wrote:


Speaking of an easy fix, how difficult is it to:

1) replace a missing rear bumper end piece (on the side - curves around the
rear quarter panel) on a 1983 300TD

2) Replacing the engine shut-off valve because the engine is starting to run
for more than a few seconds after I turn it off (1985 300CD).

Andrew


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

No, its a surprise.

Luther Gulseth wrote:



How about a picture so we know what we're getting into

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:



oh, its changed QUITE a bit

LT Don wrote:



Can't wait to see your backyard (maybe) a year later, Kleb.








--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Hummer's a DOG!

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Dr Dan has a hummer, real hummer.  Doesnt seem like a dog to me.  It 
does what its designed to do.  Not cruise down the highway at 80


Mike Canfield wrote:

And you think the H1 has enough power with the 6.5  The Hummer is a DOG 
with that engine.  Seems the military would be smart enough by now to use a 
Cummins.


Mike


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Im not talking about a rollback or a wrecker.  Even if it was a rollback 
or wrecker, if its not for hire the insurance is no different than any 
other car.


Mike Canfield wrote:

Until you figure in the special high priced insurance for a vehicle designed 
to haul cars.


Rollbacks and wreckers are way high.

Mike



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea, could be.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Only the civilian version of the H1 uses a turbo. The military version is normally aspirated due to the reliability of the turbo in harsh conditions 
 
Harry

69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea

Luther Gulseth wrote:


You're welcome.  Provide me with my comission check at the OkieQ.

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:04:55 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971







--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[andrew strasfogel]

Speaking of an easy fix, how difficult is it to:

1) replace a missing rear bumper end piece (on the side - curves around the
rear quarter panel) on a 1983 300TD

2) Replacing the engine shut-off valve because the engine is starting to run
for more than a few seconds after I turn it off (1985 300CD).

Andrew



On 6/19/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:




How about a picture so we know what we're getting into

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> oh, its changed QUITE a bit
>
> LT Don wrote:
>
> > Can't wait to see your backyard (maybe) a year later, Kleb.
> >



--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)



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Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[Luther Gulseth]

How about a picture so we know what we're getting into

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> oh, its changed QUITE a bit
> 
> LT Don wrote:
> 
> > Can't wait to see your backyard (maybe) a year later, Kleb.
> > 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[Mike Canfield]

OK.Tell that to my friend who had his last (2005) in the shop more than 
he drove it.  3 days after the 06 arrived it was leaving the driveway on a 
hook because it left him stuck in the middle of the road with a loaded 
trailer when it just quit.  Same problem that wouldn't go away in the 05. 
Let's see..All of the front brakes had to be replaced under warranty due 
to them chattering at 10K miles, engine ran when it wanted, tranny would 
shift well MOST of the time, electronic 4wd control box went bad at 12K 
miles locking the t-case in 4 lo and got 17MPG empty at 55MPH.  LOTS of 
power though.  More power than you could likely use in a pickup.  Too bad 
you can't use all of that power in the shop.
 By the way these trucks are METICULOUSLY maintained and driven very 
easily.  Dealership told him that he takes too good of care of the trucks 
that's why he has troubleNice thing to tell an irate $50K truck 
owner.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


When you think about it there isn't one of these diesel trucks that won't 
spend time in a shop.
I had over 150,000 on my 01 Duramax and never had any problems with it. 
Some people just don't realize you can't just drive these things and 
expect nothing to break or go bad. A diesel engine requires maintainence 
just like any other vehicle. If you want a real hard core diesel engine 
buy a Cat


Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata


-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 22:41:29 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


A powerstroke make walk all over the 6.5, but the 6.5 is MUCH cheaper
and easier to work on.  Has plenty of power for my needs

Mike Canfield wrote:
Durajunk..If you want a truck in the shop all the time go ahead and 
buy

one.  I speak from experience, not mine personally but that of a close
friend who is a GM diehard and has suffered through 4 of the junks.  The 
GM
diesel I refer to the powerchoke walking all over is the 6.5.  I do have 
to

agree the Chebbie is the most comfortable ride of the 3.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?



Thats funny someone whould mentiion the powerstroke walking all over the
Chevy DM. Sorry guys, just not possible. The powerchoke as you call it
makes less horsepower and only few ft.lbs of torque more than the DM.
Seriously, the Chevy is a better riding truck anyway

Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata


-Original Message-
From: Mike Canfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 12:01:00 -0400
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


If you get a Ford get the 7.3 PowerchokeStay away from the 6.0.
The
7.3 has very good power and will walk all over a Chebbie diesel.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?



I would love to, the package its wrapped in it junk though.  I would
rather stick with chevy anyway.  What will probably end up happening is
I will just sell my truck and get an extended cab/crew cab about like
what I already have, around a 95-99.

Luther Gulseth wrote:

Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.

On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 20:46:13 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won the LeMans 24h !!"

[LarryT]

My apologies - I initially said a *V10* Turbo Diesel  had won LeMans - I 
should have said a *V12* Turbo Diesel had won LM.  Awesome engine 
(obviously).


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won the 
LeMans 24h !!"




yea

Bob Rentfro wrote:

WOW...At $95 per hour labornot too bad.

Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: "Jeff Zedic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won the
LeMans 24h !!"




Yes and the tranny replacement took them 10 minutes!!


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Who....../BT4 in M37

[Mike Canfield]

Philip,
 Yep a BT4 would be sweet.  I have been thinking of swapping in a MBZ 
diesel.  I found a 76 240D 4 speed with only 65K DOCUMENTED original miles 
but am afraid it will be too gutless for the old war machine.  The original 
230 puts out around 77HP at 3200 and 140LB-FT of torque at 1200.
 Maybe a 5 cyl turbo would have enough but I really want to stick with a 
manual tranny.


Mike

- Original Message - 
From: "Fmiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?



rumor has it that Mike wrote:


1968 Dodge M37 3/4 ton 4x4
Hauls scrap metal at least once a week
just hauled 50 locust posts to a local winery today
hauled out 2 loads of firewood to season for winter last weekend
burns junk gas from scrap cars

Top that for a daily driverLOLOL


All that needs is a Cummins BT4 and it'd be perfect!

--  Philip, who admires those old Powerwagons

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?/Hummer's a DOG!

[Mike Canfield]

And you think the H1 has enough power with the 6.5  The Hummer is a DOG 
with that engine.  Seems the military would be smart enough by now to use a 
Cummins.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


The 6.5 is anything but light duty. After all these years of being the 
engine of choice for a H1 Hummer it can take a beating and still keep 
going. Even with a 7.62mm AK round in the engine block


Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata


-Original Message-
From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:47:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 10:09:34PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:

Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.


I smack talk my powerchoke all the time, since I really wanted a truck 
with

a real injector pump and without all the electronics. Dead stock, it'll
leave a cummins when climbing a hill, and both the cumminses and I will be
laughing at the bowtie garbage at the bottom of the hill. The cummins
has a narrower powerband which will hurt you with an automatic. For all of
its electronics, the powerchoke has been rock solid reliable for over a 
quarter

of a million miles, and with a locker, automatic, and 33s, still gets over
20 mpg on the highway with no mods.

This said, the aforementioned K30 is going to get a cummins transplanted 
into
it since the 6.2 isn't heavy duty enough and the 6.5 is a waste of my 
time.
Both were designed as light duty engines, whereas the cummins and 
powerstroke

were designed as medium duty engines. I have worked on Isuzu medium duty
engines before, and that coupled with all the electronics on the duramax,
I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.

K

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Re: [MBZ] FWD: http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29400-2357-0?uid=110226912&site=0&ver=WNA080805&item=8074739971&id=&lk=Itemdescription1 '89 300SEL

[Mike Canfield]

Really???  Did you say that?

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FWD: 
http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29400-2357-0?uid=110226912&site=0&ver=WNA080805&item=8074739971&id=&lk=Itemdescription1 
'89 300SEL




with gas prices the way they are, its too far away.

Luther Gulseth wrote:

it's at $425.83 with 1 hour and 45 minutes left.in Plainfield IL, 
grey

interior looks CLEAN and is a "GOLDMINE of good parts" according to the
seller..

--- Forwarded message ---
From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc:
Subject: '89 300SEL
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 10:21:21 -0500

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971
Parts car price for a daily driver???





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won theLeMans 24h !!"

[LarryT]

Audi has revolutionized the modern pit stops in endurance races -- they roll 
the car in on little carts under each wheel and basically unbolt the rear 
axle, roll the transaxle and rear wheels away before rolling a new one in. 
The time is between 7 and 8 minutes IIRC.  It all looks like a
choreographed routine - as the mechanics look like they've practiced this 
change a few times.  As someone said, the tranny must not be able to handle 
the 1000 ft #'s of torque.   The ACO which organizes LeMans has changed the 
rules to require the original case be used through-out the race - now, Audi 
must replace the bad parts and continue to use the case used to qualify 
with.  I haven't watched all the race - but I believe that's the way I heard 
the new rules would be.




The ACO sometimes makes some really odd rules - the worst is IMHO, the 
requirement that cars leaving the pits must *not* spin the wheels!  And the 
penalty is a 3 min stop & go --  seems pretty severe when the cars have 
touchy clutches and ornery engines at low speeds --




The only downside of the Turbocharged V10 Diesel is the traditional scream 
of the engine as it rolls down the Mulsanne straight - but the Audi has much 
of its exhaust note muted by the turbochargers --  it's more of a whosh 
than a scream.




Audi's approach to endurance racing has been pretty extreme - they organize 
things and leave very little to chance.  They tested the Diesel Audi approx 
38,000 miles to prepare for LeMans - they also ran at Sebring early this 
year and won there also.  It was seen as a good test for LeMans since 
Sebring is a very bumpy track & often beats cars to death as they compete in 
the 12 H race.  LeMans is a much different track - very smooth and fast - 
with Sebring bumpy and having that incredible Mulsanne straight - originally 
over 4 miles long  - it was changed to include a couple of chicanes after 
the Porsche 917s were clocked at over 240MPH.




Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won 
theLeMans 24h !!"




No I just read in the paper that they had to replace a tranny during the
race.

Hendrik
who is pretty impressed with owdies effort

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:23 AM
Subject: [MBZ] OT - "Audi powered by a V10 Diesel engine just won the 
LeMans

24h !!"



Too cool! IIRC,  last year they lost the tranny - too much torque.
Must have figured out how to handle it.

http://today.reuters.co.uk/news/newsArticle.aspx?type=motorSportsNews&storyID=2006-06-18T152430Z_01_L18278722_RTRIDST_0_SPORT-MOTOR-RACING-LE-MANS-UPDATE-2-PICTURE.XML

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Mike Canfield]

Typical worn shifter bushings.  Locked between gears.  Could have wiggled 
the linkages and been all fixed.'til it did it again.  New bushings on 
the shift linkages would have fixed it permanently.
 Love those old EaglesHad several wagons, a couple sedans and some 
SX4's.  Great cars all but for the electronics.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?



Two eagle wagons (unstoppable in snow),

Yeah!  We had a 1982 Eagle with the big 258 C.I 4.2L I6 with a 5spd behind
it, and it was one of the best snow cars we've ever had!  It was about 9
years ago, and we paid $2K for it.  However, the main seal and clutch went
out soon after purchase with only 85K on the car (185K)?  Once that was
fixed along with the timing chain, it drove like new until my nephew 
locked

up the tranny one day.  It acted like it was stuck between gears, and the
shifter didn't feel right anymore.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204k miles, Giesela


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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Mike Canfield]

You're right..She lives in a 4 mile long town.All flat from her 
house to the store.  Pitiful!


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?



only left the house to buy a bottle of water.

Heck, it cost her more to drive that BEAST to the store than it did to
purchase the water bottle!  She should get a bike and save some $$!

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela AKA Granny
2003 Dodge Quad Cab Cummins Diesel pickup, 25K miles, THE TRUCK!
side-by-side recumbent tandem bike (gets the best mileage of them all)!


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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Mike Canfield]

HAHAHAHA.The gear vendors overdrive costs more than a 6.2 Burban is 
worth.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?



Well, the burb probably dogs out due to the rear end ratio. The trick to
compensate for that is to get one of those gear vendors over/underdrive
units. you will get an extra overdrive for highway cruising and get even
better fuel milage when not loaded down , but when towing you can
effectively put it in direct and under ( in reality, the gear below and
over ) to lower the final drive ratio and give you all the pulling oomph
you need.

--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

Well the 1 ton 6.5 td doesnt even know there is a car on a trailer back
there, but the burb 6.2 diesel is kind of slow, but gets the job done
and gets a little better mileage.  Also thought about finding a mid 90's
3.4 ton 6.5 td with a 5 speed, that would probably get pretty decent
mileage without the slushbox.

John Berryman wrote:



On Jun 17, 2006, at 11:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:




yep.  The only reason I was really looking was for the extended cab to
get more people in if needed.  I will be sticking with my 95 and my
diesel burb


Dayum, you are smarter than you look!! With the burb, there's plenty
of seating anyway. Which one is your preferred hauler?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Mike Canfield]

Until you figure in the special high priced insurance for a vehicle designed 
to haul cars.


Rollbacks and wreckers are way high.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?



Actually, the more I think about it, the more I think that if I do sell
my truck and get something different Im just going to get one of them
car hauling ramp trucks, with the long 20' or whatever flat bed on the
back.  That way I could haul 2 cars if I wanted to and it will still be
cheaper in the end.

John Berryman wrote:


On Jun 17, 2006, at 11:46 PM, Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:



there's no way I'd even consider dropping 30 grand on a pickup truck,
you could buy a used semi with a small engine and convert it to an rv
for a whole lot less money and get better fuel milage )

--Robert



It just baffles me how many people shell-out the big bucks and
launch their boat 3 times a year and then just drive it to work every
day. Same folks are pissin' and moanin' about fuel prices. Makes no
cents to me.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turbo

[John Ingram]

You all are right, a 240D turbo would eventually self-destruct.  My  
friend's car apparently covered 70K miles before the pistons  
disintegrated.  I plan to leave my 240D alone, I like driving around  
with my foot firmly planted on the go peddle.  I think the best  
suggestion was to buy a 300D turbo and just add it to my collection.   
However, I'd like to have a 4-speed, which can be done.


John Ingram
83 240D
89 Volvo 740 5.0L
72 VW Bus 2.7L

Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat

[Tom Scordato]

Manuala calls for the little notches to be lined up properlly on those 
thermos.  I do not know if it makes a difference.  When I did my 1977 300D 
it also ran a bit hotter, but I also change the fluid to the G-5 stuff at 
the same time from a standard prestone green/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat



Peter --

I understand that hotter is better (with our cars and with our females).
However, there is that small, nagging voice that start to whisper into my
ear when the temp needle leaves the 175F and starts to climb to the 212
mark.

Hey, I am Iowa. If I start to approach 212F climbing OUR hills, I have to
wonder what will happen if I head out this summer to visit my parents in
WV.  (!!)

Anal retentive as I am, I am afraid I'd have to get yet another driver's
seat (due to brown spots) from Kaleb if I saw the temp needle swing up 
near

the 250F mark. It was there once, but that was when I broke a alternator /
water pump belt.

Perhaps this is why I flew fixed wing rather than rotary wing planes.

D.


On 6/18/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


No, only the rubber ring is necessary.

You should run about 175 to 195 F -- cooling is NOT better, as engine
efficiency is lower at lower temps.  After all, the radiator will dump
MORE heat the hotter the coolant and the cooler the exterior air
(larger temperature drop).  With proper coolant, no engine damage will
occur so long as the temp guage is out of the red range.

My 300D will start to heat up above 85C on long grades in the mountains
in the summer with the AC on -- never gotten above 100, though.

Peter


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-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Hendrik Riessen]

What's the problem? He came in $20 under budget, or has Kaleb dropped his 
ceiling to $400?


Hendrik
who is doing really well not buying cars via sharkbay

- Original Message - 
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ooops



I believe Kaleb was busy pushing the bid button :-)

---Robert

Sunil Hari wrote:

did i miss something?  what's the joke?

On 6/19/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


hahahahahahaha
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] ooops




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[mykd1]

Only the civilian version of the H1 uses a turbo. The military version is 
normally aspirated due to the reliability of the turbo in harsh conditions 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:02:45 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


There is a turbo version in the hummer also.  From what I have been told 
you want to avoid those though as the turbo sits right against the head 
and causes them to crack.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> They use mechanical injection in the Hummer and there is no electronics not 
even a turbo 
> The 6.5 they use is normally aspirated 
>  
> Harry
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata   
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 23:16:30 -0500
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?
> 
> 
> the 6.5 is a good engine.  Its only real weakness is the IP and 
> electronic controller, neither of which is real expensive to replace.
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> 
>>The 6.5 is anything but light duty. After all these years of being the engine 
> 
> of choice for a H1 Hummer it can take a beating and still keep going. Even 
with 
> a 7.62mm AK round in the engine block 
> 
>> 
>>Harry
>>69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
>>72 350SL   108,000 Miles
>>2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
>>1999 Mazda Miata   
>> 
>> 
>>-Original Message-
>>From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:47:27 -0700
>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?
>>
>>
>>On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 10:09:34PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.
>>
>>
>>I smack talk my powerchoke all the time, since I really wanted a truck with
>>a real injector pump and without all the electronics. Dead stock, it'll
>>leave a cummins when climbing a hill, and both the cumminses and I will be 
>>laughing at the bowtie garbage at the bottom of the hill. The cummins
>>has a narrower powerband which will hurt you with an automatic. For all of
>>its electronics, the powerchoke has been rock solid reliable for over a 
> 
> quarter
> 
>>of a million miles, and with a locker, automatic, and 33s, still gets over
>>20 mpg on the highway with no mods.
>>
>>This said, the aforementioned K30 is going to get a cummins transplanted into
>>it since the 6.2 isn't heavy duty enough and the 6.5 is a waste of my time.
>>Both were designed as light duty engines, whereas the cummins and powerstroke
>>were designed as medium duty engines. I have worked on Isuzu medium duty
>>engines before, and that coupled with all the electronics on the duramax,
>>I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.
>>
>>K
>>
>>___
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>>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

Here's one of the chebby diesel sites that stays pretty active 
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/index.php
This site here has a gear vendors listed in the classifieds section for 
$1500 with a turbo 400 tranny adapter  http://www.thedieselpage.com/ 

There are a bunch of other sites, but I can't remember which ones are 
worth fooling with, just do a search. I just had a few links from when I 
was truck shopping a while back.
on ebay just search gear vendors or  laycock ( gear vendors uses a 
Laycock overdrive unit very similar to the ones used on Volvos in the 
70-80's and british cars going way back. it's a little stouter unit, but 
many parts interchange )


-Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
any recomendation for a truck site that something like this may show up 
one, or, what sort of ebay search would yield said piece of equipment?


Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:

  
If you keep an eye on some of the truck sites, those things show up used 
fairly regularly for around a grand or less., still cheaper than buying 
a new truck.


-Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:



yea, if you want to spend about 4k on one of those.

Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:
 

  
Well, the burb probably dogs out due to the rear end ratio. The trick to 
compensate for that is to get one of those gear vendors over/underdrive 
units. you will get an extra overdrive for highway cruising and get even 
better fuel milage when not loaded down , but when towing you can 
effectively put it in direct and under ( in reality, the gear below and 
over ) to lower the final drive ratio and give you all the pulling oomph 
you need.


--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

   


Well the 1 ton 6.5 td doesnt even know there is a car on a trailer back 
there, but the burb 6.2 diesel is kind of slow, but gets the job done 
and gets a little better mileage.  Also thought about finding a mid 90's 
3.4 ton 6.5 td with a 5 speed, that would probably get pretty decent 
mileage without the slushbox.


John Berryman wrote:



 

  

On Jun 17, 2006, at 11:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


  

   



yep.  The only reason I was really looking was for the extended cab to
get more people in if needed.  I will be sticking with my 95 and my
diesel burb

 
  
	Dayum, you are smarter than you look!! With the burb, there's plenty  
of seating anyway. Which one is your preferred hauler?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

I believe Kaleb was busy pushing the bid button :-)

---Robert

Sunil Hari wrote:

did i miss something?  what's the joke?

On 6/19/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  

hahahahahahaha
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] ooops




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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Re: [MBZ] Audiophiles

[David Brodbeck]

Tarek Elshenawy wrote:
> >From my receiver (Blaupunkt Miami CD72) I would like to put in a 2x120 Watt
> amplifier and keep the factory fader switch to avoid rewiring the speakers.
> The million dollar question: Will the fader switch handle the increased
> power?
>   

I seriously doubt it.  However, if you bypass the fader by splicing the
wires in the center console, you can probably avoid replacing most of
the wiring.

Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Sunil Hari]

did i miss something?  what's the joke?

On 6/19/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


hahahahahahaha
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] ooops


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
>  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
>  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

[MBZ] Audiophiles

[Tarek Elshenawy]

I plan on adding 4 Infinity Kappa 4x6" plate speakers to my SDL. I hear the
front two will need some Dremel trimming, but I'll deal with that later.
Hopefully this will aid my Infinity Kappa Perfect 12" subwoofer and complete
the sound I'm looking for (Dylan sounds amazing with bass).

>From my receiver (Blaupunkt Miami CD72) I would like to put in a 2x120 Watt
amplifier and keep the factory fader switch to avoid rewiring the speakers.
The million dollar question: Will the fader switch handle the increased
power?

Tarek

P.S. The Blaupunkt America SR04 SIRIUS satellite unit is a complete piece of
shit. Blaupunkt made good on it though and bought it back from me for what I
paid for it. Hopefully the SIRIUS s50 will be better.

Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Rick Knoble]

hahahahahahaha
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD

'87 190 DT
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: [MBZ] ooops



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] ooops

[Luther Gulseth]

You're welcome.  Provide me with my comission check at the OkieQ.

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:04:55 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971




--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

[MBZ] ooops

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8074739971
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

There is a turbo version in the hummer also.  From what I have been told 
you want to avoid those though as the turbo sits right against the head 
and causes them to crack.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

They use mechanical injection in the Hummer and there is no electronics not even a turbo 
The 6.5 they use is normally aspirated 
 
Harry

69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-

From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 23:16:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


the 6.5 is a good engine.  Its only real weakness is the IP and 
electronic controller, neither of which is real expensive to replace.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The 6.5 is anything but light duty. After all these years of being the engine 


of choice for a H1 Hummer it can take a beating and still keep going. Even with 
a 7.62mm AK round in the engine block 



Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   



-Original Message-
From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:47:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 10:09:34PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:



Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.



I smack talk my powerchoke all the time, since I really wanted a truck with
a real injector pump and without all the electronics. Dead stock, it'll
leave a cummins when climbing a hill, and both the cumminses and I will be 
laughing at the bowtie garbage at the bottom of the hill. The cummins

has a narrower powerband which will hurt you with an automatic. For all of
its electronics, the powerchoke has been rock solid reliable for over a 


quarter


of a million miles, and with a locker, automatic, and 33s, still gets over
20 mpg on the highway with no mods.

This said, the aforementioned K30 is going to get a cummins transplanted into
it since the 6.2 isn't heavy duty enough and the 6.5 is a waste of my time.
Both were designed as light duty engines, whereas the cummins and powerstroke
were designed as medium duty engines. I have worked on Isuzu medium duty
engines before, and that coupled with all the electronics on the duramax,
I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.

K

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[mykd1]

Kind of why I have my VW with all wheel drive, its cheaper to run than a suv 
and just as unstoppable as any of them in the snow.  
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:41:42 -0700
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?


On Sat, Jun 17, 2006 at 08:02:44PM -0400, John Berryman wrote:
> 
> I just gotta ask,
>   What do you guys "need" these huge expensive trucks for? I feel  
> trucks were intended to be used for work. Trucks with back seats cost  
> more to purchase and run, lengthen wheelbase resulting in lousy  
> turning radii and were intended to haul your tools, equipment,  
> materials and work crew.
> 
>   I'd like to see a list of truck owners and how each uses it.

Have three. One is the infamous powerchoke (96 F250 extended cab 4x4), one
is a dead 88? chevy K30 crew cab dually (6.2/automatic), one is a dead 79 
dodge D300 club cab dually (440/automatic). In addition to dragging dead
cars all over the place, the truck is used for hauling stuff for the house,
and pulling travel trailers. The two duallies were meant to eventually replace
the F250 as duallies cure a lot of evils on windy mountain roads with a big
heavy trailer. The F250 is equipped with a locker, and is backup for the 
jeep cherokee as a trail/off road rig.

Club cabs/extended cabs are handy for keeping your gear inside and dry
if you don't have a shell. I rarely have less than two people ride with me
when I have a travel trailer hooked up, so the extra seatbelts don't go unused.

>   How about a second list for SUVs?

Two eagle wagons (unstoppable in snow), two 70's jeep cherokees (used for
four wheeling, and snow duty since the eagles have been off the road).

California doesn't use salt (anymore, for now). 

K

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

Check www.oilburners.net for one. In the marketplace section, there is a 
gear vendors for a NP205 transfer case setup for $1000 right now ( 
Although for the life of me I can't remember what truck that transfer 
case is on ). Also read through the forums, they have a habit of listing 
items in the tech forums.
I can't remember the name, but do a search on chevy diesel forums and 
you'll find a couple that specialize in those things and usually have 
some goodies available .


---Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
any recomendation for a truck site that something like this may show up 
one, or, what sort of ebay search would yield said piece of equipment?


Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:

  
If you keep an eye on some of the truck sites, those things show up used 
fairly regularly for around a grand or less., still cheaper than buying 
a new truck.


-Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:



yea, if you want to spend about 4k on one of those.

Robert & Tara Ludwick wrote:
 

  
Well, the burb probably dogs out due to the rear end ratio. The trick to 
compensate for that is to get one of those gear vendors over/underdrive 
units. you will get an extra overdrive for highway cruising and get even 
better fuel milage when not loaded down , but when towing you can 
effectively put it in direct and under ( in reality, the gear below and 
over ) to lower the final drive ratio and give you all the pulling oomph 
you need.


--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

   


Well the 1 ton 6.5 td doesnt even know there is a car on a trailer back 
there, but the burb 6.2 diesel is kind of slow, but gets the job done 
and gets a little better mileage.  Also thought about finding a mid 90's 
3.4 ton 6.5 td with a 5 speed, that would probably get pretty decent 
mileage without the slushbox.


John Berryman wrote:



 

  

On Jun 17, 2006, at 11:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


  

   



yep.  The only reason I was really looking was for the extended cab to
get more people in if needed.  I will be sticking with my 95 and my
diesel burb

 
  
	Dayum, you are smarter than you look!! With the burb, there's plenty  
of seating anyway. Which one is your preferred hauler?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

___
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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[mykd1]

When you think about it there isn't one of these diesel trucks that won't spend 
time in a shop. 
I had over 150,000 on my 01 Duramax and never had any problems with it. Some 
people just don't realize you can't just drive these things and expect nothing 
to break or go bad. A diesel engine requires maintainence just like any other 
vehicle. If you want a real hard core diesel engine buy a Cat 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 22:41:29 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


A powerstroke make walk all over the 6.5, but the 6.5 is MUCH cheaper 
and easier to work on.  Has plenty of power for my needs

Mike Canfield wrote:
> Durajunk..If you want a truck in the shop all the time go ahead and buy 
> one.  I speak from experience, not mine personally but that of a close 
> friend who is a GM diehard and has suffered through 4 of the junks.  The GM 
> diesel I refer to the powerchoke walking all over is the 6.5.  I do have to 
> agree the Chebbie is the most comfortable ride of the 3.
> 
> Mike
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 4:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?
> 
> 
>> Thats funny someone whould mentiion the powerstroke walking all over the 
>> Chevy DM. Sorry guys, just not possible. The powerchoke as you call it 
>> makes less horsepower and only few ft.lbs of torque more than the DM. 
>> Seriously, the Chevy is a better riding truck anyway
>>
>> Harry
>> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
>> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
>> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
>> 1999 Mazda Miata
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Mike Canfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Sent: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 12:01:00 -0400
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?
>>
>>
>> If you get a Ford get the 7.3 PowerchokeStay away from the 6.0. 
>> The
>> 7.3 has very good power and will walk all over a Chebbie diesel.
>>
>> Mike
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>> Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 8:14 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?
>>
>>
>>> I would love to, the package its wrapped in it junk though.  I would
>>> rather stick with chevy anyway.  What will probably end up happening is
>>> I will just sell my truck and get an extended cab/crew cab about like
>>> what I already have, around a 95-99.
>>>
>>> Luther Gulseth wrote:
 Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.

 On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 20:46:13 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 wrote:

>>> -- 
>>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>>  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
>>>  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
>>>  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
>>> http://www.striplin.net
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>> ___
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>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
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> 
> 
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> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Fmiser]

rumor has it that Kaleb wrote:

> Actually, the more I think about it, the more I think that if I do
> sell  my truck and get something different Im just going to get one of
> them  car hauling ramp trucks, with the long 20' or whatever flat bed
> on the  back.  That way I could haul 2 cars if I wanted to and it will
> still be  cheaper in the end.

The advantage of a trailer is the engine isn't attached. Thus you can
drop it, switch to a different truck to tow it, buy a new truck to tow
it, etc.

--  Philip, who likes trailers

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Fmiser]

rumor has it that Mike wrote:

> 1968 Dodge M37 3/4 ton 4x4 
> Hauls scrap metal at least once a week
> just hauled 50 locust posts to a local winery today
> hauled out 2 loads of firewood to season for winter last weekend
> burns junk gas from scrap cars
> 
> Top that for a daily driverLOLOL

All that needs is a Cummins BT4 and it'd be perfect!

--  Philip, who admires those old Powerwagons

Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat

[Marshall Booth]

LT Don wrote:

Peter --

I understand that hotter is better (with our cars and with our females).
However, there is that small, nagging voice that start to whisper into my
ear when the temp needle leaves the 175F and starts to climb to the 212
mark.

Hey, I am Iowa. If I start to approach 212F climbing OUR hills, I have to
wonder what will happen if I head out this summer to visit my parents in
WV.  (!!)


When the temp reaches 212 the engine fan kicks in to add more cooling. 
Before that, there is only the passage of fluid thru the radiator and 
the flow of air thru it to cool the engine.


Is the area between the AC condenser and the radiator clear of debris??



Anal retentive as I am, I am afraid I'd have to get yet another driver's
seat (due to brown spots) from Kaleb if I saw the temp needle swing up near
the 250F mark. It was there once, but that was when I broke a alternator /
water pump belt.

Perhaps this is why I flew fixed wing rather than rotary wing planes.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[mykd1]

They use mechanical injection in the Hummer and there is no electronics not 
even a turbo 
The 6.5 they use is normally aspirated 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 23:16:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


the 6.5 is a good engine.  Its only real weakness is the IP and 
electronic controller, neither of which is real expensive to replace.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> The 6.5 is anything but light duty. After all these years of being the engine 
of choice for a H1 Hummer it can take a beating and still keep going. Even with 
a 7.62mm AK round in the engine block 
>  
> Harry
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata   
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:47:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 10:09:34PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:
> 
>>Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.
> 
> 
> I smack talk my powerchoke all the time, since I really wanted a truck with
> a real injector pump and without all the electronics. Dead stock, it'll
> leave a cummins when climbing a hill, and both the cumminses and I will be 
> laughing at the bowtie garbage at the bottom of the hill. The cummins
> has a narrower powerband which will hurt you with an automatic. For all of
> its electronics, the powerchoke has been rock solid reliable for over a 
quarter
> of a million miles, and with a locker, automatic, and 33s, still gets over
> 20 mpg on the highway with no mods.
> 
> This said, the aforementioned K30 is going to get a cummins transplanted into
> it since the 6.2 isn't heavy duty enough and the 6.5 is a waste of my time.
> Both were designed as light duty engines, whereas the cummins and powerstroke
> were designed as medium duty engines. I have worked on Isuzu medium duty
> engines before, and that coupled with all the electronics on the duramax,
> I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.
> 
> K
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke? Who needs them and why?

[Fmiser]

rumor has it that John wrote:

> 
> I just gotta ask,
>   What do you guys "need" these huge expensive trucks for? I feel 
> trucks were intended to be used for work. Trucks with back seats cost 
> more to purchase and run, lengthen wheelbase resulting in lousy  
> turning radii and were intended to haul your tools, equipment,  
> materials and work crew.
>
>   I'd like to see a list of truck owners and how each uses it.

I've got a late 60s Chevy 3/4 ton (c20) 2wd that hauls all my winter
fuel (3+ cord of firewood), pulls a trailer for moving/rescueing cars,
and provides general driving pleasure.

But it's too small for the family, so either some get left behind for
that trip or we take a second car (w123). So I'm keeping an eye open for
a 4-door so the whole family can travel together. I want it to be
diesel, preferably Cummins, and I'd like 4wd.

I also have a mid-80s 1/2ton 2wd Suburban. The whole family fits in, it
can pull the trailer, and haul all my tools. I wish it had a Cummins.

My W123s get most of the miles, though. As long as I don't need lots of
tool/materials we can all fit. Someday I'll get the wagon back on the
road and that should give me a bit more room. I wouldn't mind something
like an Isuzu Trooper diesel to use as a "baby" suburban.

--   Philip, country boy

Re: [MBZ] value of a 1987 190D 2.5T

[Marshall Booth]

Trampas wrote:
Marshall, 


I thought the OM617 was the most bullet proof engine. I know I have been
trying for the last year to blow mine up. I just can not justify driving a
car to the junk yard and leaving it.

My 1985 300SD with over 300k miles on it has never left me stranded. The
water pump started leaking on a trip, let it cool and added more water and
drove 200 miles home. My wife drove 100 miles with E-brake on, kept complain
that the car was slow and I kept say it was a diesel, yes the light and
brakes did work but she never noticed, till she stopped at red light and
asked what was that smell and then asked why car would not move. 


Oh wait it did leave me once, when the mechanical part of ignition switch
broke. Took me almost a whole day to drill out switch and replace. When I
replaced it with a used one, I took all the tumblers out such that it will
never have a problem again. My wife asked if it was easier to steal with out
tumblers, I said I hope so. 


I occasionally will drop transmission into first gear going 50MPH, yes it is
really bad for car, but it stops people from tailgating really quick as it
blows lots of black smoke. The governor limits engine speed to about 4500,
but I can get about 5000 RPM out of it this way. 


I also have disconnected the waste gate for last 6k miles, just to see if
over boosting will blow it up. I don't think it has enough compression left
for the over boost to make a difference. 

Now I think the transmission will go long before the engine. 


And what's the question?

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

the 6.5 is a good engine.  Its only real weakness is the IP and 
electronic controller, neither of which is real expensive to replace.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The 6.5 is anything but light duty. After all these years of being the engine of choice for a H1 Hummer it can take a beating and still keep going. Even with a 7.62mm AK round in the engine block 
 
Harry

69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-

From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:47:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 10:09:34PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:


Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.



I smack talk my powerchoke all the time, since I really wanted a truck with
a real injector pump and without all the electronics. Dead stock, it'll
leave a cummins when climbing a hill, and both the cumminses and I will be 
laughing at the bowtie garbage at the bottom of the hill. The cummins

has a narrower powerband which will hurt you with an automatic. For all of
its electronics, the powerchoke has been rock solid reliable for over a quarter
of a million miles, and with a locker, automatic, and 33s, still gets over
20 mpg on the highway with no mods.

This said, the aforementioned K30 is going to get a cummins transplanted into
it since the 6.2 isn't heavy duty enough and the 6.5 is a waste of my time.
Both were designed as light duty engines, whereas the cummins and powerstroke
were designed as medium duty engines. I have worked on Isuzu medium duty
engines before, and that coupled with all the electronics on the duramax,
I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.

K

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

oh, its changed QUITE a bit

LT Don wrote:


Can't wait to see your backyard (maybe) a year later, Kleb.

On 6/18/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 21:08:30 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-NO-TITLE_W0QQitemZ4651803152QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


"easy fix"  Oh, yeah, right.


Craig

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?

[mykd1]

The 6.5 is anything but light duty. After all these years of being the engine 
of choice for a H1 Hummer it can take a beating and still keep going. Even with 
a 7.62mm AK round in the engine block 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 11:47:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Powerstroke?


On Fri, Jun 16, 2006 at 10:09:34PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:
> Can you say Flowerchoke?  Dude, get a real engine.  Get a Cummins.

I smack talk my powerchoke all the time, since I really wanted a truck with
a real injector pump and without all the electronics. Dead stock, it'll
leave a cummins when climbing a hill, and both the cumminses and I will be 
laughing at the bowtie garbage at the bottom of the hill. The cummins
has a narrower powerband which will hurt you with an automatic. For all of
its electronics, the powerchoke has been rock solid reliable for over a quarter
of a million miles, and with a locker, automatic, and 33s, still gets over
20 mpg on the highway with no mods.

This said, the aforementioned K30 is going to get a cummins transplanted into
it since the 6.2 isn't heavy duty enough and the 6.5 is a waste of my time.
Both were designed as light duty engines, whereas the cummins and powerstroke
were designed as medium duty engines. I have worked on Isuzu medium duty
engines before, and that coupled with all the electronics on the duramax,
I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole.

K

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Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat

[Peter Frederick]

It will heat up some in the mountains of WV in the summer for sure -- 
that's where I was last summer.  Not a big deal, just watch.


It should never be below 175 after warmup.  If it is, the thermostat 
isn't working correctly, and may neither close NOR open completely -- 
runs cold in the winter and too hot in the summer.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] No speedo - 1990 300TE

[Peter Frederick]

The old cable broke because there was too much friction in the housing. 
 A new one will break rather quickly for the same reason.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] easy fix

[LT Don]

Can't wait to see your backyard (maybe) a year later, Kleb.

On 6/18/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 21:08:30 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-NO-TITLE_W0QQitemZ4651803152QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


"easy fix"  Oh, yeah, right.


Craig

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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat

[LT Don]

Peter --

I understand that hotter is better (with our cars and with our females).
However, there is that small, nagging voice that start to whisper into my
ear when the temp needle leaves the 175F and starts to climb to the 212
mark.

Hey, I am Iowa. If I start to approach 212F climbing OUR hills, I have to
wonder what will happen if I head out this summer to visit my parents in
WV.  (!!)

Anal retentive as I am, I am afraid I'd have to get yet another driver's
seat (due to brown spots) from Kaleb if I saw the temp needle swing up near
the 250F mark. It was there once, but that was when I broke a alternator /
water pump belt.

Perhaps this is why I flew fixed wing rather than rotary wing planes.

D.


On 6/18/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


No, only the rubber ring is necessary.

You should run about 175 to 195 F -- cooling is NOT better, as engine
efficiency is lower at lower temps.  After all, the radiator will dump
MORE heat the hotter the coolant and the cooler the exterior air
(larger temperature drop).  With proper coolant, no engine damage will
occur so long as the temp guage is out of the red range.

My 300D will start to heat up above 85C on long grades in the mountains
in the summer with the AC on -- never gotten above 100, though.

Peter


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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen