date:20090921

Re: [MBZ] Knock & slosh

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth

Do you have the hard return lines on that engine?  Those are a collar 
type fitting held down with a nut.   They can be buggers to get 
sealed.  You can try loosening the banjo bolt where the collar meets 
the hard line.  that allows some flexibility.


Peter is right, of course about the body seal and the crush 
washer/heat shield between the tip and the prechamber.  Those have to 
be replaces each time the injector nozzle holder is removed.


At 07:12 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Got the injectors installed and Gump starts and runs with more power
than I recall her ever having.

Problem is that the injectors are leaking at the body and I have a
pretty severe knock coming on.  I did not replace the spacer in each
cylinder, just left what was there in.  I think they are all the same
anyway.

I guess I need to remove and retorque the injectors to deal with the
leaking fuel, but what else should I be doing?

clay
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Loren Faeth 



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[MBZ] 380SL Timing chain and rails

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth



This is the third installment.  Will try to get the photos with the 
three pieces and make a decent article.  There my be a few minor 
steps I skip in the writeup, because I am assuming an average or 
better mechanic skill level before you would attempt to change a 
chain and rails.  There may be big steps I skip too, because I am 
completing each piece from memory after I am cleaned up, not while I 
am doing the work.  M116 engine type in 1985 380SL.  153k miles.


Finished up the job today.   I wired up the chain and removed the 
sprocket on the right cam, after making sure the match marks I had 
put in earlier were still visible.  The tensioner banana rail pin 
would not come out as advertised. I put an ezout in it, tapped it and 
turned.  Nothing happened.  Kept trying, and could not get the pin to 
budge.  Considered pulling the radiator, but the evap would still be 
in the way.  Then I remembered Rusty said the cover was 
removable.  took the new rail and removed and replaced the cover a 
couple of times.  Could it be done with the rail in the engine?  It 
was easy enough to slide off the old cover and pull it out with needlenose.
Could not get the new one to hook in at both top and bottom.  Then I 
tried just hooking the bottom, but every time I pushed it down enough 
to hook the top, the bottom came off.  Finally went back to the new 
rail with the new cover and put in on and off.  I found the trick.


Hook the bottom end on the aluminum rail, put a loop of wire around 
the cover.  Pull up on the loop of wire while pushing the op end down 
into the slot.  as the top end slides up, release the wire.  Check to 
see both top and bottom are secured to the rail.  Cut the wire and 
remove it.  Now cap the pin.  the cover is supposed to have an aluminum seal.


Install the upper rail.  Seat all the rail pins after checking all 
rails again.  I used a 5/16 pin punch to seat the pins.  On earlier 
engine s I used to fill the internal threads of the pins with moly 
grease to protect the threads.  You may or may not want to do this. 
Replace the right cam sprocket onto the cam.


Install the chain replacement tool. Cut the old chain, being careful 
not to get filings in the chain case.  Rags or paper towels around 
everything also keeps parts of the link or master link from dropping 
down, a MAJOR problem.  I once had to take an engine out and tear it 
down because i dropped a link, and it wedged in the crank sprocket.


Connect the new chain to the old using the master link.  TUrn the 
crank to roll in the new chain.  It takes quite a few revolutions to 
get the new chain in.  In the beginning, you my need to help the old 
and new chains along, but once it has 10 or 20 links in, both the 
chains self feed.  Remove the master.  COnnect the ends of the new 
chain with the new master link. My new master had 2 tiny c clips in 
place of the peened link.  Nasty little buggers, but they snapped on 
ok.  Check the c cplips very very carefully.  This may be the most 
critical step of the operation.  A lost c clip can mean a trashed 
engine.  Remove the chain replacement tool.  install a NEW 
tensioner.  I used a piece of 1x4 to pry the tensioner close enough 
to start the bolts.


turn the engine over slowly to #1 TDC and check the timing marks on 
the camshafts.  If you were able to roll in the chain, you should be 
ok.  Install PS pump plate  Install the PS pump and adjust the 
belt.  Install the distributor, but don't tighten the bolt 
yet.  Replace cap and wires.  INstall the Alternator 
bracket.  install and adjust the alt. belt.


Replace valve covers.  You may want to replace the gaskets.  I could 
not get the left valve cover off the engine.  just raised it up 
enough to clear the cam sprocket.  I put a new gasket on the right 
one.  The valve cover bolts are supposed to have aluminum 
washers.  You did order some, didn't you?  I didn't because i didn't 
know they were there.


At this point, I turned the engine over by hand a couple of times 
then started it.  It ran, so I adjusted the dist by ear for fastest 
idle.  I pick a midway point in the travel at the highest speed.  You 
don't want it too advanced or too retarded.  Then I shut off the 
engine and replaced the fan and shroud, radiator hose and vent hose, 
air cleaner and its hoses, after a genral check of the engine top to 
make sure I didn't leave any tools there.


I know, y'all need fancy tools to set the dist.  But my pappy set the 
timing by ear, and one of the best mechanics I ever knew did 
too.  Every time I have done it and then had the timing checked, it 
was right, and didn't need to be adjusted.  So now, I just go with 
it, and don't bother with timing lights and dwell meters, computers, etc.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] sealed transmission fluid change

2009-09-21 Thread OK Don

My Dad's '99 C230 had the "lifetime" sealed tranny - some dip at an oil
change place pulled off the sealed cap and was surprised that there was no
dip stick. I bought him a new cap seal, and he traded the car off.

>
>
>
> What year?  Early 722.6 did have torque converter drains, at least my '98
> S420 does.  The procedure is just like the older cars, except easier.  The
> level on the dipstick tool is calibrated at 80°C, so drive around for a
> while and check the center of the pan with an infrared thermometer to see
> where you are.  Replace the dipstick cap and tamperproof lock when you are
> done.
>
>
> --
> OK Don
> CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
> distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
> others.
> The Devil's Dictionary
> Ambrose Bierce
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] sing it again, Sam

2009-09-21 Thread RELNGSON

> ...Insurance is a racket, you know.  It is an organization that makes it
> look like it is helping, but only skrews with anyone, and everyone.
> They take, take, take premiums in the guise that someday something
> *might* happen and then they run and hide when it does happen
> 
Since you have been preaching this sermon for MANY months now, how about 
telling how you came to this conclusion. H?

RLE


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Re: [MBZ] Idle Speed Too Fast

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth

you sure there is no vacuum leak? Basically, the IP and governor are
not serviceable items, except on a multi-tens of thousands of dollars
IP test stand.

Before you pull the pull and condemn the IP, make sure you have
eliminated all other possibilities.

I would remove the vacuum line and inspect every m of it, then put it
back with NEW seals and try it again. If the steel line is rubbing,
it can wear through. It can also rust through, although old diesels
usually keep the engine compartment well lubricated, so rust is
generally not an issue on that line.

Is there any other source of oil into the intake? Excessive
blowby? anything that is combustible that can get into the intake is
used as fuel.

At 10:24 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Loren and Kaleb,
I disconnected all linkages at the IP and intake, and backed out all
the adjustment screws, and am still unable to reduce the idle
speed. It seems to be only controlled by the vacuum line and the
governor. There must be a direct control of the governor somewhere,
I just can't locate it.

Thanks,
Bruce

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Loren Faeth

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