In place of the proper tool, I use a small pipe wrench with several
layers of shop towel to protect the pulley belt. Works just fine.
The stubby socket it a must, though.
joe (yeah, I'm back)
R/E's been an education in what constitutes a seriously high signal to
noise ratio.
Recent history:
My '87 TD got whacked back in mid Feb when a genius ripped a u-turn
from the curb in the middle of a block right into my path. After much
circumlocution from his insurance company including a
While the wagon's being dealt with we've had to fall back on the '80
300D as a backup. It's doing fine except the servo's gone belly up
again and after wasting way too much effort in trying to revive it I'm
really tired of dealing with that particular Rube Goldberg device; so
I'm thinking of
I just grab the pulley with it in the same place the proper tool would
be located, Harry. Tightened down as much as I can get it over the
shop rag layers and torqued on lightly sideways it provides a near
perfect counterhold.
joe
All's just peachy, Johnny B. Seems I remember your presence being
missed for a while before I went futilely foraging for greener
pastures. Glad you're back as well.
As for you, Kaleb, what can I say.. Laissez les bon temps rouler
keep up the good work! :)
joe
Fluff city, Craig. There are some knowledgeable folk over there but
it strikes me as mainly a lonely hearts club. It's all good, though;
there've gotta be worse ways to wile away the hours.
joe
Didn't occur to me that you might have the Unwired Tools retro kit,
Rusty. If you do, I'm definitely interested. If not, why don't you
give them a holler see if you can get hooked up. They do sell to
the public but if you can get them for a better price, I sure don't
have any problem with you
I assume you're referring to your '91 124, Larry. Easy way to align
the pad prior to gluing is to cut a piece of approx nominal 1x2 to
36 long, and cut both ends to a blunt chisel shape. This will allow
you to wedge the pad front to back along the centerline of the hood
and get it properly
Don't know about reasonable, Mark, but from everything I've heard
you'll have a hard time beating Pacific Fuel Injection for good.
They're in SSF, CA, and rebuild units shipped from all over. Chances
are good they can supply you with an exchange unit from the shelf if
you're rushed. Think
Anybody else notice that Rusty's taken to repeating himself -
repeatedly? Or is it just me? Whatever, sure looks like one of us is
coming down with something for which there's no cure. ;(
joe
Finally! Just heard from the Farmers agent from up in the Redding
area. She'd just gotten back from the body shop and has authorized
repairs totalling a tad over $7200, supplements to follow. Anybody
think of anything else I should be asking for beyond direct expenses
and compensation for loss
Actually, Loren, it was the 'dood from California's' sales records
that provided me with 2 of the comp's my appraisal was based on. He's
also doing the repairs, including an upgrade to the late production
hood/grill headlights. I'm just now getting off an email to Speed
to see if I can pick
Only thing I see that looks remotely plausible, Casey, is 201 998 17
78, except the parts bible lists 5 ea for each rear door, total 10.
Attached stripped fr list copy is a screenshot that should show it
all - if you can figure it out.
My karma's all warm fuzzy now.
joe
-- next
Few months ago I was experiencing the same thing in my '87 wagon.
Managed to ignore it a bit too long one day I got a call from my
wife's cell. It had thrown the belt had to be towed home. Turned
out that the alternator pulley was loose; nut had backed out ~1/16
which was enough. I wound up
I'm wondering if you maybe didn't just overcharge with duracool,
Kaleb. IIRC, quantities charge pressure are supposed to be
considerably lower with HC replacements.
joe
Got a couple of welcome checks in the mail today, the first to cover
the bulk of the cost of repairs to the wagon, with perhaps a bit more
to come for incidentals not originally included in the estimate. It
went to the paint shop earlier this week and it looks as though I'll
have it back next
Should have it back w/i a week, or hopefully 2 at most, Johnny B.,
complete with a facelift and front end makeover to late production.
At most I expect to be out the cost of a pair of late Hella euro
lenses purchased from Speed and the spare euro headlight housing I
already had on the shelf to
So, would you consider the wreck a blessing in disguise not counting
any aches and pains? It'll look sweet with the upgraded parts.
Judgment reserved for the moment, but I'm shall we say guardedly
optomistic. ;) I'm not however feeling so grateful to Farmers that
I'm much
That always seems to be a touchy point. Did they allow for a rental
while repairs are made?
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
_
Took weeks to squeeze a clear acceptance of liability out of 'em.
Didn't feel it was wise to ask until then, and of course after they
made a lowball
Finally got the Unwired kit to replace the servo amp installed
functioning in my '80 300D. Actually I spent a good part of last
weekend on it. Nothing inherently very difficult about the
installation but getting the kinks out turned into quite a marathon.
Vacuum issues were as expected the
I've got an email off to Steve at Unwired wondering if he can shed any
light on the price break.
Rusty didn't even give me his special one-day rate, Kaleb, so I was
stuck with the full price of $695.
joe
Here's an update from Steve at Unwired in response to my email query this AM:
The hardware supports tapping into the coolant temp sensor that drives the
dash gauge. We just didn't implement the software. Here in Arizona we want
the system to turn on immediately. In cold climates you probably
Few yrs ago stopped to refuel about an hour into a 3 hr drive in my
first '87 TD. Wouldn't crank anywhere close to fast enough to start
after filling. Tried jumping with an obviously not robust enough
battery. Finally resorted to tow starting with the assistance of a
good samaritan. Drove the
Doesn't look like there's any mapping for north amerika. Drat! I was
all set to rush out and snag a pair for my oh so classic rides.
joe
Delivered about noon today, replete with new late production
hood/pad/grille/star, late production euro lenses to go with the
updated hood, fan/clutch/2-piece fan shroud/Behr radiator, hydraulic
reservoir - the list goes on. Paint and fitment are perfect; if I get
down close and look real hard I
Along with the wagon arrived today a box of assorted parts from Speed,
among which is the switch panel, the one that carries the
sunroof/antenna/etc switches. From the epc, the p/n I ordered
received looked to have 5 openings for switches, the 5th being needed
for a light range adjuster switch.
Near as I can tell Mathieu is correct. There's just no place the
light range switch can go on a W123 anywhere near the headlight
switch. Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'm thinking I'll
mix up some fairly soupy epoxy with some ground up pencil lead for
color and make a mold out of
I have removed switch blanks in order to install switches where none
existed. They were made of black plastic with tabs on the ends,
removed and installed by flexing.
Johnny B.
_
Unfortunately the opening for the temp wheel is a little different
size shape than those intended for
The label on the plastic bag the part came in has the p/n I ordered,
123 683 31 08. Finally occurred to me to do the obvious check the
part itself. On the back it's clearly indicated that I was sent the
wrong part, 123 683 38 08. D'oh!!
Fortunately the correct part appears to be available in
Karsten mentioned this when he returned the wagon following its recent
facelift. I took advantage of having it up on stands today for a
general inspection to locate what he was talking about. Crack is
about 9 long toward the center where it makes a sharp bend to form
part of the seam where the
Went ahead and picked up a band-aid fix at Kragens. Applied several
thin coats with liberal heat between. Time will tell. I just may
have to give PGA a shout in the AM though.
joe
At that price it could be a really good deal - or not. It's not
unlikely that the piston is frozen in its bore from sitting too long
with less than perfectly clean fuel in it or maybe even soaking up
moisture from the air. Had to disassemble mine for that reason once;
now I charge it with M1
Puttin' together a little nuisance parts order I think I've just had a
stroke of genius - or something. I was going to add that 5-hole
switch panel to the order in another attempt to get one that'll allow
me to add the light range selector switch to the center console when
it occurred to me
Can't remember the last time anyone, or even dogs, were in the back
seat of that car, so I guess the obvious solution's been staring me in
the face waiting to be recognized all along. Thx.
joe
EPC shows a washer, N000125 010518, between the adjuster block and 2
washers, N000137 010201 N912004 014100, under the bolt head.
joe
I see in the epc that in Europe a different pump was installed after
engine 011121. Any informed speculation as to what the difference
might be? Does this likely have anything to do with the slightly
higher output of the European version?
joe
You're quite right, Bob - this list can be a real hoot. If you go
deep enough into Bruce's pump to find an o-ring the pump's prolly due
for a trip to the test stand for recalibration. The copper seal for
that pump is 005 997 45 48 and the proper torque is *40-50 Nm on the
pipe connection in one
Anybody ever successfully disassemble one? Replaced the one in my '87
TD when I found it wasn't functioning altogether correctly after
getting it back from accident repairs. Guess I'm wondering if a shard
from the shattered reservoir might have made it thru the pump and
clogged a port in the
Finally decided a couple weeks ago to bite the bullet and replace the
crusty old reservoir in my wagon. What finally arrived after I was
informed that the old p/n, 124 869 06 20, had changed, along with the
price of course, was 124 869 09 20, which turns out to be the
reservoir that's installed
I suppose I'm nowhere near the first to notice that to continue to use
WXP Update it's now required that users allow the installation of what
is essentially spyware to confirm you've got a 'genuine' licensed copy
installed. What'l they think of next?
joe
Got a really great deal on a Gus Pfister rebuilt I/P for my '87 TD so
plugged the thing in just before leaving on a little road trip a
couple of weeks ago. While I was at it, I pulled the instrument
cluster to replace the outside temp display. Got it started the
evening before we left so there
Marshall Jim, many thanks for the suggestions! Clock had me
thinking grounds as well, but everything else works I hadn't
considered a possible grounding issue inside the cluster as all I did
the last time around was to change out the outside temp display, but I
did have it apart months ago to
Finally got around to hooking up the switch in the '80 300D this
afternoon, so now the question is in which position should the switch
be when the headlights are adjusted. Both this switch and the not yet
installed one for the '87 wagon are 4-position switches numbered 0-3.
I'm inclining toward
I think the instructions say to adjust at zero, but I adjusted mine
on the 90's 300TDt at 1so that I can move to zero and adjust the beams
upwards a bit on the highway.
__
Great minds really do think alike, don't they John? ;)
I was a bit surprised though to find that the procedure
Spud's still unsubbed from the list; too busy to keep up these days.
He's asked me to forward the following, which I've culled from several
emails in hopes someone can shed more light. Those of you who've been
around surely know how to send mail to him direct. I'm on digest so
won't make a very
Just a wee reminder folks. Klann delivers a little injunction against
using air tools with all their compressors. YMMV of course, but I'm
personally inclined to take these little caveats rather seriously and
I *certainly* wouldn't use air with a clone.
joe
As noted earlier the Unwired Tools servo replacement that Performance
currently has on sale is a closeout of an earlier than current
version. Should work well enough but installation is a bit more
involved and iirc it lacks some of the programability of the current
version. If anyone's feeling
Haven't yet gotten around to installing it but I scored a factory Oris
hitch off german ebay a while back. Installs like Casey's hitch but
looks to me to be considerably more substantial, rated to tow 1900kg.
Also has a neat toollessly detachable ball head that when removed
leaves no receiver
I'm under the impression that 50mm is plenty close enough to 2 for
practical purposes, Tom. You think not?
joe
Malfunctioning relay when hot? Maybe wouldn't show up unless the engine's
cooled down enough that it has to struggle a bit w/o glow... Longshot for
sure, but it wouldn't hurt to plug in a spare relay just for yucks.
j
On 10/13/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi all,
My 1987 300D has
Been a while now but Dan Penoff used to have a '62 300SE, a fintail
with hydropneumatics. As I recall, when I first saw it the car had
been sitting for quite a while and the suspension had leaked down. It
pumped right up on starting though and held pretty well at shutoff.
Don't know if he ever
Just hooked up the lowest of low end Bose, the CineMate speaker
system, to the new tv my brother I got for Mom for xmas. She thinks
she's died gone to heaven. Best is the really quite intuitive
universal remote that came with it fixed the stupid comcrap dvr that
wouldn't pause, rewind, fast
Could be a needle stuck in its nozzle body bore. I've seen that so bad that
I'm convinced that no amount of Purge could remedy it. Makes quite the
racket but just requires nozzle replacement.
-joe
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list
That's in Euros isn't it? If so, it computes to ~$13240. I suspect
you'd be in for more than a little tiff with the DOT thugs.
j
Does it have the stock conn rods? I'm wondering how well the bottom
end is likely to handle all that oomph..
j
On 6/14/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK... how about if we import it to Canada (eh!) first, then move it from there
to the States? There's gotta be *some* way to get that
Believe that's the RSF governor detailed in the 123 manual,
.../engine/615/07-010.pdf. It's section B, beginning p. 6 of 15.
joe
Anyone give any thought to setting up Google Group(s) to host the
list(s)? With that gmail who needs a digest? They even allow
attachments up to 1MB, which remain on their server unless you choose
to download/view them.
http://groups-beta.google.com/intl/en/googlegroups/about.html
Sho' looks like it to me, Tom. Steering comes off before AC comes off
before alt/h2o pump belt. Just one of Spud's pet reasons to hate the
123, but it's really not all that bad - if you can find some shade.
Might not be the worst idea to drag the ramps along with you either.
Relevant bolt
18.4-1101a indicates the pressure sensor is at the base of the filter
housing; that'd seem to be an appropriate place if you want to hook up
a test gauge. TDM indicates that pressure may drop to .3bar at idle
and should be at least 3bar at 3Krpm. 18.1-1101a deals w/ the oil
pressure relief valve
Thx, David. That's what looked most likely, but I wasn't sure from
the illustration in the epc. $2.70US should be fairly current list.
joe
Slide forward *and* raise the seat to its limit to get to the rear bolts.
joe
Never been there, Loren, but according to the fsm, 82-680 of the
chassis manual, you just need to remove the air intake grill, 83-140
of the ACC manual, to get to the motor linkage. That last is just 2
pages, so can't be all that involved.
joe
Best is to read the paint code from the datacard, which can usually
easily be accessed thru the EPC if you don't have the original that
came with the car. Moss green is code 803.
http://www.amcon-luxled.com/mbcar/paint1.html
joe
On 6/30/05, Dwight E. Giles, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
No,
Now that I think of it, the 3 digit paint code is lower left (front of
car) of the ID plate that's next to the hood latch. No need for a
datacard.
joe
On 6/30/05, Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Best is to read the paint code from the datacard, which can usually
easily be accessed thru
It's the last listed line near the bottom left on my '80 and is
followed after a space by an H. These letters designate the paint
manufacturers, Herbert(?) or Glasurit.
joe
On 6/30/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dwight E. Giles, Jr. wrote:
I am still having trouble finding my
They ditched that top-o-the-pump delivery valve adjustment on the
OM60x pumps, Jim. Most common issue with the delivery valves on those
pumps seems to be leaky o-rings.
joe
On 6/30/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...
This is your 87 6 cylinder diesel, right?
You didn't
To help with the interior code(s), we'll need to know your VIN,
Dwight. I expect it's on the pink slip and also on the tag, probably
black, on the drivers's door post.
joe
On 7/1/05, Dwight E. Giles, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks Tom (and to all who replied to this needless obsession
IIRC, there's a flexible line that is a press fit onto the overflow
tube that originates inside the fill flap. If that tube has become
detached any overflow will dump into the recess behind the right
wheelwell. In any event all that's required is to pull the trunk
lining from that side to see
It *might* be possible to repair some cracks in the original 14 heads,
Kaleb, but I doubt it would make a lot of sense to try. During the
original production of the OM603 engines, which ran iirc thru m/y '95
there were no fewer than 5 revised castings introduced, the latest of
which might have
Cluster's out; speedo's off. Thx, all.
Next ?'s. Does the dial just pull off is it self indexing? I don't
see any flats on what little of the shaft is visible. Don't see much
point in going further if I'm going to have to send it out for
recalibration after removing the thing, but it looks
I'm certainly no expert, but I'd be inclined to wait until I could put
some gauges on it, or even pay someone a few bucks to reliably tell me
what kind of pressure the system's seeing. My recollection is that
with R-12 you need to add enough to eliminate the bubbles.
joe
On 7/4/05, Dave M.
Sounds like you're getting close, Kevin. When do I get to take it for a spin?
joe
On 7/4/05, Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Mon, Jul 04, 2005 at 10:12:32AM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
so can the 14 heads be repaired at a machine shop, and if so, will the
problem just come up again?
and I want to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get
to it. The car in question is a 300D 2.5Turbo, without telescoping steering
column.
Thanks,
Chase M. K.
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED
Have yet to see a later one, Loren, but if it's anything at all like
the one that was in my '80 when I got it it's not really intended to
be serviceable in that fashion and has to be drilled out. Rather
tedious.
http://my.sanbrunocable.com/joeknight/
joe
On 7/5/05, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Plugged the instrument cluster back into the wagon this morning and
took it for a test drive. I'm happy to report that early indications
are that the tripmeter's been restored to perfect operation. Reset
button works flawlessly with no noticeable effort required to overcome
internal resistance
Thx, John, Mac. Little drawback to gmail is that original posts don't
show up in the inbox until/unless someone replys.
joe
Hose, between engine feed line, 123 832 72 94, if your CA '80 VIN
ends in something higher than 164507. Shouldn't run more than $22
from the stealer.
joe
On 7/12/05, jgiels [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have a 1980 300D and tonight while taking a short trip the coolant hose
that comes out of
It does exist, Max. Trick is *finding* one on this side of the Pond.
I picked one up couple of yrs ago in hopes that it would fit my wagon,
but it'll take some modifications to the cross bar acquisition of
the mounting kit if it's ever to be installed. Part numbers on this
one weren't at all
Might be ok if you're not too much a purist and can stand for the
diminished capacity. The factory coupling is rated at 1900KG trailed
load and disappears upon removal of the easily detachable ball head.
Think I'll hold out a while longer.
joe
On 7/12/05, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Interestingly, the epc lists a radiator installation kit, 124 500 39
03 for .193 .393 to be used on vehicles w/ a/c and trailed load
exceeding 1500KG. Is Arne still subscribed, Kaleb?
joe
I think the hitch itself is rated for 1900KG. That's not to say that
MB has certified that 1900KG is a safe load for the wagons. IIRC,
Arne's caravan weighed in at considerably more than 1500KG though.
joe
On 7/13/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Casey, Joe, Loren;
Keep those
The ball/mount is indeed one-piece at 50mm. That is a limitation.
On 7/13/05, Richard Hattaway [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...
One of my issues on 'factory' hitches that I have seen is that the ball
appears to be welded permanently on the mount. I have 1 7/8 and 2 inch
trailers in the yard.
This sounds like rather more than a boost problem, Max. The albatross
would do 0-60 in something like 15-16 sec as a NA 603 before I opened
up the pressure line to the ALDA. Engine # is on a small flat section
of the block, slightly inclined from the horizontal toward the block
immediately in
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
How about Arne? I seem to have lost track of his addy.
joe
On 7/13/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
no clue, anybody have his email address?
http://henriksens.net/index.php?name=copperminefile=thumbnailsalbum=26
Seems to have pulled the pics he once had up of his hitch, but you
might want to explore the site to see if I've missed them.
Arne used to be subscribed as Arne Henriksen [EMAIL PROTECTED],
Kaleb, if you wouldn't mind checking
Datacard for WDB1231301A214405 lists engine 617912 10 209857, tranny
717400 00 048941, paint 929, interior 152.
About to head out to look at a set of 6 1/2 J X 15 H 2 8-holers to
replace the rather tired looking originals on the wagon. Assuming
good cosmetics with only the most minor curb rash on a couple of them,
Dayton tires @~60% tread, does $250 sound reasonable? I'll probably
be replacing the tires
Compressor drawing current? Don't think so, unless you're referring
to the clutch. Near as I can tell the clutch is driven thru fuse 5.
I must be looking in the wrong place; don't see that fuse 3 is meant
to have anything at all to do with ACC. Sorry if I'm barkin' up the
wrong tree; this
There were at least a couple of articles about this at mbz.org. Never
done it myself, but iirc a piece or coathanger wire or whatever you
can find of the approximate right diameter to hold things in place is
correct. Knurl the gear end of the shaft w/ pliers or whatever,
jbweld, superglue,
I think the Tibetan model has a lot to recommend it.
joe
On 7/19/05, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...
When you die you get
encased in concrete and buried. The cycle of life has us decomposing back
into the soil from which we came. In our new nothing gross society we've
.025, at least that's the gospel according to the Freezn one.
joe
On 7/19/05, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Someone a while back figured out how much one full turn of the ALDA
screw translated to in theoretical shim thickness--anyone got that
figure handy?
In the classifieds this morning. Gray mkt? Struck me as being at the
least something of a rare bird.
joe
EXCELLENT link, John! Thought I remembered that someone was making
replacement odo gears; found it in no time flat.
joe
On 7/21/05, John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The articles are archived on
http://web.archive.org/web/20040610132627/www.mbz.org/info/articles/
It is a fun site-
You might just spin the engine with the starter before installing the
injectors. Have someone see to the manual shutoff lever on the IP
during this exercise or tie it down. Continue for a few secs after
the gauge stabilizes. I've always done this with or without assembly
lube, leaving the spark
Yep. 'Option' is the key. And for the 124 at least the factory
supplied seat for 'subsequent' installation is much inferior to that
installed on the production line in Sindelfingen(sp?).
joe
On 7/24/05, Desert Rat [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ed,
at least all W123 and W124 had the 3rd seat has
Sounds like a rare formidable bird, Chris. Don't see anything at a
glance about the 6.9L engine in the 116 factory service manual CD.
There is a bit of info about the hydropneumatic suspension in the
chassis manual, though. Other than drivetrain suspension, I suspect
it's much as the 450SEL
Attached is a pdf of the relevant page in the epc. Callouts 11 101
are for the same p/n, 115 992 03 10, and are I believe the more
commonly replaced bushings. Callouts 14 17 are also identical
bushings, 115 267 12 50, are presumably the bushings Dan was
referring to that require partial
It's my *incomplete* understanding that the spring compressor is not
really required for the rears. Maybe others who've actually been
there can chime in on that.
joe
I don't find anything directly relating to allowable 'play', Kevin,
but the manual does stipulate that the allowable tolerance for the id
of the exhaust guides is almost double that for the intakes. I do
remember that Dave experienced very similar symptoms after installing
a new head. Turned out
Meade, et al, I was browsing ebay UK yesterday and came across some
auctions touting towbar packages that purport to be the same as are
installed over there by the dealers. They listed several
manufacturers, Brink, Bosal, Westphalia; near as I could tell those
made for most MB applications are
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