[MBZ] Why your junker ain't worth as much now

2015-09-06 Thread Loren Faeth via Mercedes

Interesting explanation.

http://www.rabin.com/meet/Blog/August-2015/Market-Watch-The-Scrap-Metal-Industry.aspx

Scrap metal prices have always been a indicator of world economic 
health.  Low scrap prices = depression on the way.  High scrap prices 
= boom coming.


Scrap metals, rendered oils and protein, foods, pretroleum, pretty 
much all the commodities are at lows that were unthinkable a couple 
years ago in the 'bummer depression.



As a practical comparison, 4 yrs ago, a 5-7 yr old dogde van was 
worth $8-10k from private sellers.  This week I saw 5-7 yr old dogde 
vans mostly around $5K from private sellers.


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Re: [MBZ] OT Good, better, Bosch dishwashers

2011-09-09 Thread Loren Faeth
Kitchenaid now is a gussied up whirlpoo.  I bought a real kitchenaid 
new 30 years ago, and it was worked well for the time we were in the 
house.




Don't think KitchenAid sell dishwasher in Oz.

Hendrik
who is the Kitchen aid


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[MBZ] 40 years of MB Dieselling

2011-08-29 Thread Loren Faeth

Not sure if this ever made it to the list.  If so, let me know.


It is anniversary time.  40 years ago, I bought a 1962 190Dc.  It was 
battleship gray with bright red interior, including a rolled and 
pleated bench seat.  It had four wheel drum brakes, and no brake 
booster.  And of course there was no air conditioning and no power 
steering.


But it had character.  It had the 4 speed on the column and the 
vertical speedometer.  It had the 12 gallon tank, with the reserve 
light.  It was always ready to go anywhere, so long as I could get 
the battery charged enough to start the first time.


In 1963, the 110s got a brake booster, a 16 gal tank that increased 
the range to ~500 miles and front disk brakes.  But with my little 12 
gallon tank, I could fill it for less than $3.  $10 would fund an 
entire weekend within 500 miles. A tank out, a tank back and some 
money left over for food.  Times and prices have changed but an MB 
diesel is still reliable transportation.



Loren
#1  1962 190Dc  Long gone
#2  1966 200D  Still have it.
#3 1965 190Dc  Bought to fix and sell.  It went to a bubblehead out in No'folk
#4 1981 240D  Still got it.
and quite a few more.

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[MBZ] 40 years of MB Dieselling

2011-08-29 Thread Loren Faeth
It is anniversary time.  40 years ago, I bought a 1962 190Dc.  It was 
battleship gray with bright red interior, including a rolled and 
pleated bench seat.  It had four wheel drum brakes, and no brake 
booster.  And of course there was no air conditioning and no power 
steering.


But it had character.  It had the 4 speed on the column and the 
vertical speedometer.  It had the 12 gallon tank, with the reserve 
light.  It was always ready to go anywhere, so long as I could get 
the battery charged enough to start the first time.


In 1963, the 110s got a brake booster, a 16 gal tank that increased 
the range to ~500 miles and front disk brakes.  But with my little 12 
gallon tank, I could fill it for less than $3.  $10 would fund an 
entire weekend within 500 miles. A tank out, a tank back and some 
money left over for food.  Times and prices have changed but an MB 
diesel is still reliable transportation.



Loren
#1  1962 190Dc  Long gone
#2  1966 200D  Still have it.
#3 1965 190Dc  Bought to fix and sell.  It went to a bubblehead out in No'folk
#4 1981 240D  Still got it.
and quite a few more.

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Re: [MBZ] Totalled car

2011-04-19 Thread Loren Faeth

Kaleb,

So glad to hear that Regina is ok.  As someone else said, cars can be 
replaced, people not.  That said, it is really tough to lose a car 
that is rare, or has been in the family for a long time.  Like an 
E430 or an 87 TD.  It is luck that nobody else was in the car and 
that Regina is unhurt.


Its a fact of life now that we are overrun with illegal aliens, and 
other members of the 47% of the population that live off the 53% that 
pay taxes.  Few or none of the 47% have car insurance.  That is why I 
will not go without uninsured motorist, but ours is to cover the loss 
of the car and medical, and is not that expensive compared to the 
basic liability.  It is a really unfortunate that in OK the uninsured 
Motorist insurance is such a ripoff.


If whoever hit Regina is a citizen, then  you should be able to find 
out if they have a job.  If so, the suggestion someone made about 
small claims may be the best route to follow.  When it gets to 
garnishment, you may get some action, but most of the deadbeats will 
quit work and then only work for cash after that.  At least you might 
recover part of the value of the car, assuming ins won't pay 
anything.  Bummer any way it goes down, it seems at this point.


When my daughter got broadsided in her SL, I was so glad she was in 
an MB.  IN a lesser car, she could have been killed, being hit on the 
driver's side.  When she got broadsided in my SDL, I was really 
bummed about the car, but still very glad she was in a MB.  When 
Arleen got rear ended, again I was very glad she was in an MB.  In 
each of these cases, they walked away from what could have been a 
very serious accident.


Best wishes to all of you.

BTW,  Anna got the Idle air control yesterday.  Thanks!

Loren
Friends don't let friends drive Toadas.


Well wife got t boned in the 99 e430 today totaling it. Fixing to 
file claim with their INS company and want to get paid for rental 
car but I don't need a rental car. What's the best way to deal with 
that mention it up front or wait till later? If it comes down to it 
I would rather have a free rental car than nothing but would rather 
have the money for the rental car. Any other advise it's been a 
while since I have messed with INS companies


Sent from my iPhone
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[MBZ] W210 Q?

2011-02-01 Thread Loren Faeth

Can anyone tell me if a run of the mill E320 210 has an oil pressure gauge?

TIA

x

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Re: [MBZ] more reasons not to be in a Toada

2010-02-17 Thread Loren Faeth
Yes, I thought a tiered approach to both drivers license and vehicle 
rating would be good.  Vehicles and drivers with exceptionally good 
avoidance characteristics would be allowed higher speeds. 
Particularly high speed cars only allowed for high rated drivers.


i gave up on the idea long ago.  The law and insurance morons would 
kill any such reform.




I think a tiered driver's license scheme could work, and create
incentive for folks to improve their driving skills.  The higher tiers
would allow one to exceed posted speed limits by 10 or 20 mph under the
right conditions (light traffic, good weather, vehicle in safe operating
condition).  Lower tiers would have restrictions like day-light only, no
passengers except other driver's with higher tier licenses, no highway
driving.

Then you could restrict vehicle type by license type as well.  More than
100HP?  More than 3500 lbs GVW?  You need a Tier 3 license to drive
that! 200+ HP?  Tier 4!  At fault in a collision?  Lose two tiers of
license!  Texting while driving?  Back to Tier 1

-Max
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 8:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] more reasons not to be in a Toada

Curt Raymond wrote:

  I think the exposure (and the feeling of exposure while riding) makes

you a better driver...

Some auto writer, I think it was Patrick Bedard, suggested that you
could decrease automotive deaths and greatly decrease crashes if you
mandated a steel spike in the center of the steering wheel instead of an
airbag. Looking at your own impending doom would tend to make one drive
more carefully.

He was basing the idea on risk compensation, which I think motorists do
engage in. Drivers have a certain tolerance for risk. If you lower their
perception of risk through safety improvements to the car, they will
compensate by decreasing the safety of their driving to bring the total
risk back up to their comfort ceiling.

The spike in the steering wheel would be a bitch if somebody ran a red
light in front of you. You'd get spiked and they probably would not.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] more reasons not to be in a Toada

2010-02-16 Thread Loren Faeth
AND NONE of this prevents a plain old fashioned key switch or big red 
button emergency kill switch to shut down the whole freakin 
electronic mess when it goes whacko





On Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 3:51 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

 The mechanical linkage is dead, gone and unable to be
 resurrected;mandated
 traction control has seen to it.


Ridiculous.  The two have nothing to do with each other, though car
company accountants and marketeers would probably like you to think
otherwise.  The electronic stability brain needs a couple of inputs
and a couple of outputs.  Inputs include pitch/yaw sensors, wheel
speed, throttle position, and steering wheel position.  Outputs can
include engine power reduction, selective braking, and/or selective
transfer of torque to a wheel or wheels.  None of these require the
computer to have control over the throttle.  Engine power reduction
can be accomplished by retarding timing, cutting spark to a cylinder
(in the case of a gas engine), or cutting fuel to a cylinder (in
diesels or in gassers).  Selective transfer of torque among wheels can
be accomplished by application of brakes to one wheel forcing torque
to the other side on the same axle (given an open differential), or by
electromagnetic clutch packs.  None of this prevents manual control of
the accelerator by the driver, including the ability to close the
throttle completely (or stomp on the brakes!) to slow the car
regardless of what the computers want to do.

Electronic throttle control is an artifact of cost-cutting.  It's
cheaper to have one embedded computer controlling the entire car and
connected to everything via fiber optic bundles than to have discrete
electromechanical systems as in our beloved '80s Benzes.


 I am hoping that we don't see some sort of overreaction which
 brings parity
 between the QC (and QC regulations) of automobile
 parts/repairs andthose of
 airplanes.


I'm much more interested in seeing some kind of mandatory licensing
based on competence for software engineers.  Anyone who has worked in
high-tech knows that the majority of programmers are barely competent,
and that there are no accepted or enforced standards for testing their
work.  And we trust our lives to these people every time we get in a
modern car.

Alex

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[MBZ] more reasons not to be in a Toada

2010-02-15 Thread Loren Faeth
 of this evidence, I think we should insist that vehicles be 
refitted with hardware throttle linkages.   And keep on driving our 
old MBs with mechanical throttle linkages.


In honor of Herr Doktor Booth:
Loren Faeth, CQE, ASQ Senior member
(owns no fly by wire v-hicles)
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[MBZ] Toada recall

2010-02-15 Thread Loren Faeth
 or unexpected acceleration. In September, Toyota recalled 
55,000 Camry and ES350 vehicles to replace the floor mats. But that 
was hardly the end of the problems.
In January 2008, William Kronholm of Helena, MT, complained about his 
2006 Tacoma truck accelerating while he hit the brakes. During the 
investigation, Toyota told the NHTSA it believed complaints by 
Kronholm, a retired Associated Press editor, and others were 
attributed to extensive media coverage.
The automaker also said many of the problems cited by consumers, 
including lurching when the vehicle came to a stop and engine idle 
speed changes when the vehicle was stopped, were minor drivability 
concerns. Kronholm's case was closed in August 2008 without a defect 
finding.

Deaths get attention
Then, last August, a high-speed crash near San Diego killed a 
California highway patrol officer, his wife, daughter and 
brother-in-law, bringing renewed attention to the problems, now the 
regulatory responsibility of the Obama administration.
The highway patrol officer's loaner Lexus ES350 reached speeds of 
more than 120 mph, struck an SUV, launched off an embankment, rolled 
several times and burst into flames. The family frantically called 
911 from the Lexus, telling the dispatcher the pedal was stuck and 
they couldn't stop.
In October, Toyota issued its largest-ever U.S. recall, involving 
about 4 million vehicles. The fix, which is still under way, includes 
reconfiguring the gas pedal and installing brake override software on 
some vehicles.
In November, Toyota said federal regulators had concluded no defect 
exists in the case, drawing a rare rebuke from the government. The 
NHTSA said the company issued inaccurate information. In December, 
federal officials traveled to Japan to urge Toyota to take the safety 
concerns seriously and report defects promptly. Toyota said it would 
comply.
On Jan. 12, a top Toyota executive said the company was addressing 
the problems. We have learned from these mistakes, and we are 
confident that we're doing the right thing for our customers, Toyota 
Motor Sales USA president Yoshi Inaba said in a Detroit speech.
Nine days later, Toyota recalled 2.3 million vehicles over concerns 
the gas pedal could get stuck or fail to return to the idle position. 
Dealers are now engaged in an all-out blitz to fix the vehicles, 
inserting a small plate into the pedal assembly to deal with friction 
that could cause the problem.
Separately, Toyota also told dealers Friday it's preparing a plan to 
repair the brakes on thousands of hybrid Prius cars in the United 
States and would disclose details this week. More than 100 drivers of 
2010 Prius cars have complained their brakes seemed to fail 
momentarily when they were driving on bumpy roads.

Critics weigh in
The efforts have done little to soothe critics who have long thought 
the highway safety agency was too trusting of car companies and slow 
to push for higher standards. In Toyota's case, two of the company's 
top safety officials in Washington are former NHTSA employees.
Consumer advocate Ralph Nader, who exposed auto industry malfeasance 
in his 1960s best-seller, Unsafe at Any Speed, said the problems stem 
from a regulatory enforcement agency that turned itself, due to 
corporate pressure and White House neglect, into a consulting firm.
The NHTSA was without a permanent administrator for most of the past 
year. Obama's first choice, Chuck Hurley, CEO of Mothers Against 
Drunk Driving, withdrew from consideration after environmentalists 
criticized him for being too soft on fuel efficiency standards. It 
was not until December that Obama put forward David Strickland, a 
former counsel to the Senate Commerce, Science and Transportation 
Committee, who was confirmed.
Now fully engaged, the Transportation Department has stepped up its 
investigation and warned Toyota it could face civil penalties of up 
to $16 million for failing to issue timely recalls. But the 
government has sent a mixed message. Transportation Secretary Ray 
LaHood advised owners of recalled Toyota to stop driving their 
vehicles last week, then quickly backtracked and said he misspoke.
Congress is investigating, and lawmakers are planning at least two 
hearings on the Toyota recalls this month. Now, some Republicans, 
whose party was accused of failing to protect consumers during the 
Bush administration, question whether the agency held Toyota 
accountable.
It begs the question if this is an organization that has been broken 
for a long time, said Rep. Darrell Issa (R-Calif.), the top 
Republican on the House Oversight and Government Committee. They do 
a lot of good things but are certainly not doing everything they 
should well enough.


In honor of Herr Doktor Booth:
Loren Faeth, CQE, ASQ Senior member
(owns no fly by wire v-hicles)
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[MBZ] OT: measuring Power Factor

2010-01-24 Thread Loren Faeth

For all you EE types out there

With all these fancy digital handheld meters out there, is there a 
clamp-on meter that will give you a power factor while clamped on a 
wire?


Hopefully you don't have to buy a $5000-8000 fluke to do this.  The 
Kill-A-Watt does it on 120v for $25-50 if you have a 120 v motor you 
can plug in to it.  Thanks!


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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Loren Faeth
On the older Diesels, the smaall steel pan could be removed, engine 
in car, to service #1 and the oil pump.  I have never seen a 603/140 
combination, so I don't know what you are up against.  If it has a 
one piece pan, you will have to pull the engine.  At that time, you 
may want to use your weird 603, or repair the original.


At 09:04 AM 10/12/2009, you wrote:
I don't know if you can get away with pulling just the lower pan to 
do #1 or not.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-12 Thread Loren Faeth
the proper tool is a ridge reamer.  If you can see the crosshatching, 
you really don't need a ridge reamer though.  In that case, cleaning 
off the carbon with a knife should work, but don't scrape below the 
carbon ring into the travelled part of the bore.



At 06:21 PM 10/12/2009, you wrote:

got ya

dave walton wrote:

Piston comes out the top. I used the blade from my utility knife to
remove the crust around the inner top lip of the cylinder. It flaked
off easily once you got underneath it.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Craig McCluskey
diese...@pisquared.net wrote:


On Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:27:01 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:



Will it remove out the top? I figured it would have to come out the
bottom.


If you don't have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, it should. You might
need to use a ridge-breaker.


Craig

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Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 
270.13.113/2400 - Release Date: 09/28/09 05:51:00





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


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Loren Faeth 



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[MBZ] 126 trailer hitch

2009-10-12 Thread Loren Faeth
Does anyone have plans for a 126 (2nd version) trailer 
hitch?  Specifically 87 SDLI remember discussion and plans for a 
TD trailer hitch a few years ago.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 220D no start

2009-10-11 Thread Loren Faeth
You need to loosen the clamp on the cable jacket at the IP, and slide 
the jacket toward the firewall enough so that it will hit the start 
position.  Probably 2-4 mm as a guess.  THat is the primary adjustment.


As for glow,  I have several times installed a secondary glow or 
starter switch.  Take a ford fender mounted starter relay.  (fairly 
easy to find at the junkyards 20 years ago.  Not sure if they still 
use them, but I think so)  Run a #10 wire (or fusable link) from the 
battery to the relay (mounted on the rear of the engine or on the 
firewall) large terminal (left, facing the two small terminals)  From 
the right large terminal, run a #10 wire to the (hot) terminal of the 
glow resistor if you have loop glow plugs.  (on a newer car, or one 
converted to pencil glow plugs, it goes to the terminal of the last GP)


Then run a wire from any suitable hot fused terminal (31, switched) 
to a pushbutton (NO) mounted under the dash, then back to the new 
starter relay left small terminal.  (single small terminal if your 
relay has only one small terminal.  In that case, the mounting of the 
relay is expected to provide a ground for the pilot circuit.)  From 
the second small terminal, run a wire to a good ground.


If/when you have doubts about the glow switch working, you can try 
the secondary circuit.  It it starts from that one, you know you have 
a problem in the glow switch circuit.


My escort Diesel developed a problem in the switch/relay.  Rather 
than spend days tracking down an intermittent problem in the winter. 
I rigged up the push button circuit in a mcparts lot when it was 20 
below.  It only took me 30 min or so, and I did all the wiring I 
could inside the idling car.  Then I went out and installed it.  Not 
fun at 20 below.  Much better than spending days trying to fix an 
intermittent.


You can hear the relay engage.

I've also used a secondary pushbutton circuit to troubleshoot starter 
switch/starter solenoid problems.   for that, you don't need the 
relay, just the pushbutton pilot circuit.





At 05:18 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:

Gump  is being a turd.  The start cable fell off the  IP while I was
out with flu and oldest boy drove.  He was not aware the cable had
come detached and had trouble starting, but it would eventually light
off.

I found out the cable was off, and proceeded to hook it back to the IP
and now it is not willing to start when the knob gets pulled.  It will
go to glow, but I am not able to pull it further so that it engages
the start circuit.   I did learn that the knob mechanism is a three
part system.  It first opens the fuel flow, then moves to engage the
glow system.  Final position is to engage the starter.

What would work better would be a simple manual glow switch, and a
push to start button.  Probably pain in the rear to figure out the way
to cut into the circuits.

Anybody have advise on how to get Gump lit off?






--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Good deal on Delvac 1300

2009-10-11 Thread Loren Faeth
I wish it were so.  Nope, they are from Arkieland.  Rumor I was told 
is that Some daughter and son in law of sam walton started autozone, 
and then got divorced.  she kept autozone, and he bought into a 
company with a few stores and built it into almost 
nationwide.  (Oreilly)  almost everyplace there is or was an 
autozone, you will find oreilly.  Now, there are more oreillys in the 
parts of the country I travel.


So, whether you by stuff from Wallyland, groceries, or autoparts, A 
LOT of the dollars in the US go to Arkieland.



At 08:13 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

I dont know, they have parts stores all over the place.



Walter (Radar) O'Reilly was from Ottumwa.
He tried to ship a Jeep home, piece by piece. Maybe he got into auto 
parts after  the war?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Bore measurements on 140 SD

2009-10-11 Thread Loren Faeth
If I am assessing your measurements correctly, you are getting 
readings under the nominal bore size?  (negative)  that seems 
odd.  If your numbers are in thousandths of a MM, then i think Mitch 
is right.  Probably not much to get worried about.  Can you see 
crosshatching on the cylinder walls?  if so, your bore is NOT 
worn.  If not, the bore is worn where the crosshatch is no longer evident.
I have never used digital gauges, butif it is worn badly, you should 
be able to tell with the naked eye.  if wear is only 0.020mm, or 
less, I don't see much concern.  THe ridge on the bore or 
the  crosshatch will tell you most of the story.


I know in the past, pistons were binned according to actual dia, and 
blocks were stamped with actual bore.  Thus, the actual bore was fit 
with a piston with the exact clearance.  My 621 short block was 
actually nominal .5mm overbore.  each hole was stamped something like 
,47 indicating  87.47 mm bore for a nominal 87.5 mm. the Piston tops 
were also stamped with the exact dia.   I don't know if they still 
use this practice.  If the deck of your block has numbers stamped by 
each hole, then pay attention, because that will tell you the exact 
bore size when it was new.


IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so 
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if 
you don't address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe 
is in the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.


Until you can get the same measurement repeatedly, you have more 
gauge error or operator error than actual wear.  When I did 
compression tests on the SDL you now have, I used both an snappy 
gauge and the HF gauge until I was sure where the variation was 
coming from.  (carbon on valves and the HF gauge)  THen I settled on 
the Snappy gauge, and got consistent results.  (One place where the 
HF tool is not up to par.)  To be fair, my cheap one was from some 
online place, not HF, but the HF one at the time was essentially the 
same design.



At 10:12 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
No, have not put a depth guage on the piston tops, or inspected the 
rod.  I do not have a depth gauge, where would you get such an item?
About the most I have checked on the deck height is when #1 is at 
the top, if you run your fingernail for example from piston to 
block, it will catch, on the others, it will catch when you go the 
other way from block to piston.  In other words, just from the naked 
eye, #1 does sit just a very very small amount lower than the 
rest.  If its enough to matter, I do not know.


Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

.422   .398


So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so 
you can measure along the crank and across the crank?
And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being 
.024mm wider? If that were .024, you'd have junk. .024mm is just 
under .001, which doesn't sound like much to me, but might be a 
lot for a diesel. I was recently looking at the spec on dad's 2 
stroke outboard, and max out of round to reassemble without boring 
it was .003.


It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. 
Have you inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the piston tops?


Mitch.


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Great car but it needs a motor

2009-10-09 Thread Loren Faeth
I have done quite a few engine swaps, even put a v-8 in a body made 
for 6 cyl inline ONLY.  That was an adventure.


I have worked on everything from tractors to medium duty trucks, 
houses, commercial buildings concrete, etc.


I do not presume to know more about suspension than the team of 
German-trained engineers (real engineers) that designed the 123 SLS system.


tyler, have at it, but I sincerely hope you are never coming toward 
me with your frankenheap on an Icy curve with a bump on a rainy night.



At 06:34 PM 10/9/2009, you wrote:

*Ahem*

I believe the term here is put up or shut up. If its so easy just 
take a long weekend at Andrew's and show us how awesome you can make 
his car. I'm sure he'd give you dinner...


-Curt

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 15:48:30 -0700
From: tyler casi...@usermail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Great car but it needs a motor
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 4acfbdbe.4020...@usermail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

It IS trivial to use a spring with the correct spring rate... Anyone
that can do an engine swap, could do this much cheaper and easier.

Tyler

Peter T. Arnold wrote:
 GO for it!  Redesign it. I'm sure that the effort would be trivial to
 a fellow like you.



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Re: [MBZ] Great car but it needs a motor

2009-10-08 Thread Loren Faeth

Agreed.

We had an 84 TE, an 85 TD, 88 TE and the 87 TD.  They are 
wonderful.  I would love to have SLS in the 300SDLs.  Maybe I should 
salvage all the SLS parts from the TD and figure out a way to put 
them on the SDL.   I had to put almost everything to do with the SLS 
new on the 88TE.  The ride is worth it.


I hope some year that the powers at MBNA will deem us worthy to have 
a Diesel wagon again SOME YEAR!!!  It has been 23 years!  Anyone at 
MBNA listening


ok, I didn't think so.



At 06:45 PM 10/8/2009, you wrote:
Have you ever actually driven an SLS equipped MB wagon? I had an 
'81, the car was basically a disaster but in those few cases where 
everything was working right it was one of the nicest cars I've ever 
driven. Didn't matter the weight in the car, the back end would 
figure it out. It never wallowed or had excessive roll and its the 
only car I've ever driven that I felt I could drive over a railroad 
crossing at whatever damn speed I wanted, very responsive...
I've considered many times that were I to go cross country an MB 
wagon would be the vehicle to take...


-Curt

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 00:25:49 -0700
From: Tyler casi...@usermail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Great car but it needs a motor
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 82983431-2ddf-4e86-b1dc-f7ac4656b...@usermail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

Assuming you have the proper spring rate (not just sedan springs), and
bilstein HD shocks that are valved properly for a wagon- Surely it
would handle at least as good as a brand new self leveling system- and
better if you made it a little stiffer (which would also eliminate the
need for the leveling feature). I personally think the SLS is mostly a
marketing gimmick- especially on a car that isn't designed for heavy
duty towing. I guess it lets them get by with softer springs than they
otherwise would need to prevent sag when loaded, which makes the ride
softer- but certainly doesn't improve handling over a set of stiff
regular springs.

Sincerely,
Tyler
1987 190D Turbo Biodiesel

On Oct 6, 2009, at 5:17 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 We are talking about a wagon here, correct?  Putting in regular
 springs in a wagon makes for better handling?  I think not.  The SLS
 when working properly handles VERY well.  It is a very simple
 system, very little goes wrong.  That think will never be right if
 you just put springs in it.

 tyler wrote:
 It sounds like a lot of work and expense to reinstall the self
 levelling system- I'd just keep the regular rear suspension myself.
 Simpler, more reliable, and better handling. If it sags in the rear
 when you load it up, just get stiffer springs or some spacers. I've
 used overload springs with stock height, but a 20% stiffer rate
 on my Volvo wagons that I do a lot of towing with. It handles a
 little better, and doesn't really sag at all when I load it up- but
 I didn't notice any reduction in the ride quality.

 Tyler



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Re: [MBZ] Great car but it needs a motor

2009-10-08 Thread Loren Faeth
They DID!  they are ALL OVER the REST of the world!   MBNA has deemed 
that we don't want them here.


At 09:56 PM 10/8/2009, you wrote:
I cant believe they never came out with a 2.5 turbo wagon, or the 
later 606 wagon, or a 606 turbo wagon in the 210


Loren Faeth wrote:

Agreed.

We had an 84 TE, an 85 TD, 88 TE and the 87 TD.  They are wonderful.
I would love to have SLS in the 300SDLs.  Maybe I should salvage 
all the SLS parts from the TD and figure out a way to put them on 
the SDL.   I had to put almost everything to do with the SLS new on 
the 88TE.  The ride is worth it.


I hope some year that the powers at MBNA will deem us worthy to 
have a Diesel wagon again SOME YEAR!!!  It has been 23 
years!  Anyone at MBNA listening


ok, I didn't think so.




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedez Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo Diesel

2009-10-08 Thread Loren Faeth

WOW!  makes me wish I needed a car!

At 10:00 PM 10/8/2009, you wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=270463275040


Time left:  3h 59m 39s (Oct 09, 200900:00:00 PDT)
Bid history:27 bids[Refresh]
Current bid:US $3,625.00


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] diesel wagoon

2009-10-08 Thread Loren Faeth

Woger,

I was asking for a station wagon.  I guess that is a difficult 
concept to grasp.


An M or G is not a wagon.   they will sell me an S , C, or E gasser 
also, but those are Not Diesel wagons.  the R is not a wagon.  Close, 
but no bananas.  They will sell me a gasser wagon, but it is NOT a Diesel


I also wish we could buy an MB van that was at least as good as the 
dodge grand caravan.  Yes, I know, I can buy one of the few Sprinters 
left, but they are also done for, and they are NOT the same as a grand caravan.


Yes, if I could buy a new Diesel wagon or a new Bluetec Diesel grand 
caravan, I would buy one.  If they really had released the Bluetec 
Caravan in 2007, like they advertised, I would have had one for 3 
years already.


At 10:08 PM 10/8/2009, you wrote:

 ...I hope some year that the powers at MBNA will deem us worthy to have
 a Diesel wagon again SOME YEAR!!!  It has been 23 years!  Anyone at
 MBNA listening..

You are saying that if available, you would buy one, then?   You can get a
Bluetec M or G right now. Even the soon to be binned R.

RLE


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Re: [MBZ] Here we go again: 1995 E 300 Diesel Mercedes Benz for $3, 850

2009-10-07 Thread Loren Faeth
Out in the Mojave desert, they paint them all white.  Some paint them 
white with a brush.  Some with rattle cans.  They do it for a reason!


When I was in the ISUCFV Marching Band, everyone had black shoes 
when we went on field.  It didn't matter what color the shoes were 
when the wearer put them on.  Kinda the same principle in 
reverse.   (we had guys with cans of black spray paint.)


At 12:05 PM 10/7/2009, you wrote:

Yes, black is the worst color for a car in my opinion, especially in a
southern state.

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 1:03 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Here we go again: 1995 E 300 Diesel Mercedes Benz for
$3, 850

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

 http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1409493058.html

Nice looking solar collector. I don't like driving black cars in
Michigan in the summer, let alone the Carolinas.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] clacking noise from back of 190D

2009-10-06 Thread Loren Faeth

THat would be a 280S if it was a US model.

At 06:03 AM 10/6/2009, you wrote:

The only wheel bearing failure I've ever experienced did give a hundred
or two hundred miles of warning, during a road trip, but neither my
father nor I could figure out the noise until it was obvious (wheel
almost fell off).  We'd just started a cross-country drive in a car he'd
bought the day before ('69 Benz sedan, don't remember the model,
straight six with dual carbs).  There was a noise from the front of the
car, sounded like a water pump going out or maybe an alternator.  We'd
drive for an hour, stop and poke around under the hood, drive a little
more, stop and look, etc. until it finally failed catastrophically.
Limped into next town (it was on old Route 66) at a crawl, only garage
there was able to get a new bearing and install it and get us underway
again in about 4 hours.

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Max Dillon
'87 300TD 314k miles
Charleston SC



-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of tyler
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] clacking noise from back of 190D

My opinion is that wheel bearing failure is something that happens
slowly with tons of warning in most cases. I inspect and adjust my wheel
bearings every time I replace the brake pads. If the grease is clean,
and the bearings are properly adjusted and spin smoothly without
excessive drag or play, then they aren't on the verge of failure.

Tyler

Zoltan Finks wrote:
 Funny that you should mention that. Wheel bearings came to mind when
 the wife was trying to describe what noise she was hearing.

 What happened when your front wheel bearings blew? I have heard that
 basically your wheels can fly off.

 And I too have been feeling paranoid, thinking how I don't have any
 idea if they have ever been replaced on either of our Benzes, and how
 the wheels could fly off at any moment. Was thinking of just having
 them redone to be safe.

 Brian

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[MBZ] 126 Antenna diagnosis

2009-10-06 Thread Loren Faeth
the Hirschmann in my 87 SDL quit suddenly.  no motor noise.  It has a 
good fuse.  I think it is 15 and 18 is the radio.


My guess is the next step is to pull the ant. plug in the trunk, and 
see if it gets juice when the key is turned on.
Ign switch is flakey.  the ACC and fan only work it you turn it 
slightly toward off when running.  I tried turning it so the heater 
would work right after starting, but no motor noise.  I think the 
antenna problem is unrelated.


Anyone got ideas of what to try?

It would be nice if my becker rebuilt antenna had not burned.  I just 
pitched the remains on Sat.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna diagnosis

2009-10-06 Thread Loren Faeth
Yes, and yes.  And I have tried switching it also.  Nothing happens 
now.  So. Andrew's suggestion of checking the radio and talso 
checking the antenna plug for power and signals.  If my memory is 
correct, I think there are 4 terminals.  31, 15 (power and ground) 
and an up signal and a down signal, I'd guess.  IF those are properly 
occurring, then the antenna is toast.  (or a Cathey project)



At 01:03 PM 10/6/2009, you wrote:
Do you have an antenna switch on the upper center console?  If so, 
is it the UP position?


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com
To: mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 9:33 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 Antenna diagnosis


the Hirschmann in my 87 SDL quit suddenly.  no motor noise.  It has 
a good fuse.  I think it is 15 and 18 is the radio.


My guess is the next step is to pull the ant. plug in the trunk, 
and see if it gets juice when the key is turned on.
Ign switch is flakey.  the ACC and fan only work it you turn it 
slightly toward off when running.  I tried turning it so the 
heater would work right after starting, but no motor noise.  I 
think the antenna problem is unrelated.


Anyone got ideas of what to try?

It would be nice if my becker rebuilt antenna had not burned.  I 
just pitched the remains on Sat.


Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] Turning heads

2009-10-06 Thread Loren Faeth
That, and then reinstall the aluminum trim.  If you are daring, put 
clear silicone seal in the groove too.  Pretty much the same 110 to 
123 and maybe 124 and 126.  124 and 126 front windshield is different 
than 110- 123.


At 05:13 PM 10/6/2009, you wrote:

Supposedly...

I'm not sure if I'm daring enough to try it myself...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 14:51:16 -0400
From: LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Turning heads
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 615cfb09a91042319dfe56a9ee9d6...@laptop
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

Speaking of rear window replacement - my sons 78 240D needs replacement.  I
have the new w'strip but haven't tackled it yet.  Is it a basic, cut the old
w'strip, remove the glass, put the new w'strip around the glass with a
strong string in the outer channel and lay everything in place before
pulling the string out and pulling the rubber over the flange?  More
difficult to write than to do - and yes, I know it's not
run-of-the-mill-string.

Is that the way a rear glass on a W123 goes together?

Thx all -
LarryT
78 240D
92 300D



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Re: [MBZ] OT forget biodiesel, this is the new wave

2009-10-06 Thread Loren Faeth

ayep

But I do wish you could get on an interstate, program your 
destination, catch the indiction rail (or other system) and relax for 
the trip.   (WOuldn't need HP giving out speeding tickets)  Short of 
that, I always want to hook a towbar to the back of a roadway or UPS 
doublebottom going the right way.


At 10:58 PM 10/6/2009, you wrote:

On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 13:44:42 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Wasn't this idea in one of those Gibson cyberpunk stories using an old
 Volvo?

 
http://www.swampfox.ws/2009/10/01/noncontact-power-transmission-roadway-powered-vehicles-insider-look-professor-srdjan-luki




   Despite much research and incremental progress, it is highly unlikely
that a quantum leap in battery performance will be achieved.


In physics, a quantum of energy is extremely small, vanishingly small.
So is a quantum leap ...

In addition, the infrastructure required to support inductive power
transfer is enormous.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Tools - was Pulls to the right when braking

2009-10-05 Thread Loren Faeth
Must be a difference in stores.  Last several times I took crapsman 
tools into a snears store, the clerks looked at me like a was an 
alien and said there is no warranty on those tools.   Yes, I tried 
several different stores within 150 miles.


At 09:28 PM 10/4/2009, you wrote:

Speaking of tools, I took three Craftsman tools back to Sears this evening -
a 1/2 drive ratchet that I use to loosen lug bolts by kicking - and
stripped the teeth in, a 3/8 ratchet that needed new guts - found it on the
street last year, and a 12 regular screw driver that I broke the tip off
prying on the old flex disks last weekend.
I walked in, put them down on the counter, and before I could explain why I
was bringing them back, the two sales guys were already heading to the wall
to get the replacement tools. Not a single question, just here you are,
thank you. The list price for the three was $45.00.

On Sun, Oct 4, 2009 at 7:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I will say I lost a wrench or something on the test drive.  I must have
 left one laying under the hood or something, I heard something fall off and
 hit the road, could not find it though.


 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Tools - was Pulls to the right when braking

2009-10-05 Thread Loren Faeth

These all had crapsman stamped or cast into them.

At 08:00 AM 10/5/2009, you wrote:
Strange to me, I've never had problem with Craftsman branded 
tools. Their Companion Tools are only guaranteed to sink in sea water.



--

Peter Arnold

Windsor, CT

- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 8:23:47 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Tools - was Pulls to the right when braking

Must be a difference in stores. Last several times I took crapsman
tools into a snears store, the clerks looked at me like a was an
alien and said there is no warranty on those tools. Yes, I tried
several different stores within 150 miles.

At 09:28 PM 10/4/2009, you wrote:
Speaking of tools, I took three Craftsman tools back to Sears this 
evening -

a 1/2 drive ratchet that I use to loosen lug bolts by kicking - and
stripped the teeth in, a 3/8 ratchet that needed new guts - found 
it on the

street last year, and a 12 regular screw driver that I broke the tip off
prying on the old flex disks last weekend.
I walked in, put them down on the counter, and before I could explain why I
was bringing them back, the two sales guys were already heading to the wall
to get the replacement tools. Not a single question, just here you are,
thank you. The list price for the three was $45.00.

On Sun, Oct 4, 2009 at 7:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin 
ka...@striplin.netwrote:


  I will say I lost a wrench or something on the test drive. I must have
  left one laying under the hood or something, I heard something 
fall off and

  hit the road, could not find it though.
 
 
  --
  OK Don
  CONSERVATIVE, n. A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
  distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
  others.
  The Devil's Dictionary
  Ambrose Bierce
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Tools - was Pulls to the right when braking

2009-10-05 Thread Loren Faeth

20-30 years ago snears would replace tools under their warranty.

in the past 10-15 years, (since they got into financial trouble) I 
have had no luck getting them to replace anything.


their sockets are ok
the wrenches are crap.  Any cheap india/taiwan/china tools I have 
bought are as good or better than crapsman wrenches.  Crapsman box 
ends are so thick-walled they won't fit in the counterbores Daimler 
Benz provides for wrench clearance.


If you want really pretty thinwall box wrenches, it is hard to beat 
snappy.  I've not seen anything better than snappy.  Snappy has the 
tools everyone loves to steal.


At 07:02 AM 10/5/2009, you wrote:
20 years ago, a close friend lost is well equipped garage {And 
Corvette} to a fire, took the building to the foundation. He was 
well insured, collected for his losses.
A month later {New Garage s up}, we walks into Sears to by a BIG set 
of tools. The sales man recognizes him and the explains that all his 
tools had bee ruined in the fire, typically drawn to a dead soft 
condition. Salesman tell him to bring them in and He'd swap them, 
which they did.
In the would of mediocre tools, I always buy Sears Craftsman brand. 
They are as good as most and better than the rest.



--

Peter Arnold

Windsor, CT

- Original Message -
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 4, 2009 10:28:46 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Tools - was Pulls to the right when braking

Speaking of tools, I took three Craftsman tools back to Sears this evening -
a 1/2 drive ratchet that I use to loosen lug bolts by kicking - and
stripped the teeth in, a 3/8 ratchet that needed new guts - found it on the
street last year, and a 12 regular screw driver that I broke the tip off
prying on the old flex disks last weekend.
I walked in, put them down on the counter, and before I could explain why I
was bringing them back, the two sales guys were already heading to the wall
to get the replacement tools. Not a single question, just here you are,
thank you. The list price for the three was $45.00.

On Sun, Oct 4, 2009 at 7:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I will say I lost a wrench or something on the test drive. I must have
 left one laying under the hood or something, I heard something 
fall off and

 hit the road, could not find it though.


 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n. A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] BAD 300D 2.5T

2009-10-03 Thread Loren Faeth

It is fatal.  I'll give you $500 for it.

At 06:24 PM 10/3/2009, you wrote:

I finally got to work on this car today - I started with checking the cam
timing, since it has 337k miles, and I wanted to see what the chain stretch
was anyway. Everything looked good, no wear apparent on the cam nor the
followers, and the stretch was just under 3 degrees, I'd say 2.8, best I can
tell. While I had the induction tube off, I saw that the injector lines were
not clamped as they should be. The line to #1 had been lying on top of the
line to #2, which had been rubbing on the bottom of the charge tube. I bent
the lines back close to where they should have been (it's great to have a
reference car/engine!), happened to have some new plastic clamps to keep
them from vibrating, so got them secured. the #1 and #2 tubes look like they
are worn at least half way through - I'll be watching for another set, just
in case they break. Otherwise, I didn't see anything wrong here.

The primary fuel filter looked black, (was clear when new), so I changed
both filters. The primary filter had a dark film over most of the inside,
with several black rod shaped pieces of junk (bacteria?). approx. a 1/16th 
long, very fine.

Started the engine with the new filters in place, and it ran normally. Took
it for a test drive - it ran up to 4700 rpm in second, and a little over 80
mph in third before shifting (didn't notice the rpm). Ran smooth, no smoke,
lots of power.
I would not have guessed that fuel starvation could have caused the symptoms
I experienced, and the sudden on-set.

Live and learn!


 I'd start with the fuel filters, air leaks into fuel system, verify no
 gasoline (or water) in the tank, then move to the more complex like EGR.

 Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of OK Don
 Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:16 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] BAD 300D 2.5T

 On the way home today, about 3 miles from home, the '92 300D 2.5T lost
 power and would only hold 60 mph in third gear, pedal to the floor,
 spewing grey smoke. Came to a stop light, it idled smoothly and
 normally. Accelerating when it turned green, the car had little power,
 started knocking, and running rough at 1600rpm. I could get it up to
 about 2100-2200rpmmax. Let off the fuel and let it shift to the next
 higher gear, and it would slowly accelerate up again, same as before.

 When I got home, I opened the hood, expecting to find the pressure line
 to the ALDA, etc. off - but it all looks to be in place. With no load,
 rev'ing the engine results in the shacking, missing, knocking, and lots
 of smoke
 (grey) out the back. The smoke smells like raw Diesel.

 Any ideas where to start trouble shooting?

 --
 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth

Not as is, but it can be towed on a tow dolly


At 09:57 PM 10/1/2009, you wrote:

Can it be driven?

On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 9:35 AM, Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.comwrote:

 My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale for
 parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a 
rusty one would

 make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the midlevel of the doors
 is scorched off, so there would be little paint stripping 
required.  All the

 doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet metal is straight,  I found no
 damage to wiring, although the vacuum lines in the vicinity of the EGR are
 burned.  Has good hydraulic suspension components, including tandem pump.
  Interior is intact, but will be smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a brand new
 radiator, front fenders and hood after bambi hit (0 miles since) New vacuum
 pump.  TIres are not burned.  Rear glass is broken out.  Windshield is
 cracked.  Paint on the inside of the doors is good.  Kaleb turned it down.
  Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not marked as
 rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the time)  email 
to lfaeth a

 t leadingchange   c om

 I will make pictures available to interested parties.

 Loren Faeth

 ___
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--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth

yes


At 08:11 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:

Could it be driven onto a trailer?

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

Not as is, but it can be towed on a tow dolly


At 09:57 PM 10/1/2009, you wrote:
Can it be driven?

On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 9:35 AM, Loren Faeth
lfa...@leadingchange.comwrote:

  My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale

  for parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a
 rusty one would
  make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the midlevel of
  the doors is scorched off, so there would be little paint stripping
 required.  All the
  doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet metal is straight,  I found
  no damage to wiring, although the vacuum lines in the vicinity of
  the EGR are burned.  Has good hydraulic suspension components,
including tandem pump.
   Interior is intact, but will be smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a
  brand new radiator, front fenders and hood after bambi hit (0 miles
  since) New vacuum pump.  TIres are not burned.  Rear glass is broken

  out.  Windshield is cracked.  Paint on the inside of the doors is
good.  Kaleb turned it down.
   Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not marked
as
  rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the time)  email
 to lfaeth a
  t leadingchange   c om
 
  I will make pictures available to interested parties.
 
  Loren Faeth
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list
  archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 



--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth

You almost had it.

Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in the plug to 
ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High resistance, indicates open 
circuit, and bad plug.  Lower resistance indicates a ground short, 
and a bad plug.


If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the proper 
range, then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the relay.  It can 
LOOK ok and be bad, so if you can't find another source of the 
problem, change the fuse and try that.  Your problem could also be a 
failed relay or a failed ign switch (rare)


At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not 
familiar with this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series 
system.  Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a 
voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire attaches to plug) to 
ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked voltmeter from 
G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground respectively and got 
nothing. What else should I do and has my approach been correct so far?





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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth
They are not too bad.  I like to put the front up on 
jackstands.  That leaves the jack free to raise or lower the LCA as 
needed.  It can be done without the jack as others have indicated.


For the rears, jack it up and put it on jackstands for 
safety.  things line up pretty easy for the rear.  TO get to the top 
of the rears, you have to remove the rear seat back.


Do buy Bilsteins.  The ride and handling is noticeably better.


At 06:13 PM 10/2/2009, you wrote:

Thanks. It doesn't seem as complicated as I thought. Challenge might
be to get rusty bolts loose!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:38 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
  wrote:

 More to get room underneath to work on them. although if you can
 reach the bolts/nuts you don't need to jack it up.  Once you undo a
 mount they can be pushed in or out to get them out of the way.  They
 are not structural so you can unbolt them, push the strut in/out
 to fit or miss the mounting points.  If you let the wheel drop down
 it will give you a bit more room to work in there.  The new ones are
 shipped with a plastic strap to keep them from extending, it might
 be easiest to attach the top loosely then cut the strap and let it
 extend (it does it slowly) then guide it into the bottom mount.  You
 can compress them again if you need to but it takes a bit of ooomph
 and they want to keep extending while you are messing with them in
 there.  Some shocks have a plastic bumper thing on the rod at the
 top, see if your car has that and note how they are arranged to get
 the new one on right (if you need it).

 --R

 Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 So I only need to Jack the car up for th purposes of extending the
 shocks to be able to remove and replace them?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:17 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

  wrote:

 You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I
 don't think you need to worry too much about supporting the LCA
 unless you want it up higher with the car jacked up to where you
 can get under (or do it on ramps). --R

 Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would
 like to replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.
 Reading the bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower
 control arm. Does this mean that I need two jacks, one for control
 arm and one to Jack up the car?  Anyone know the procedure for this
 job?


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[MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-01 Thread Loren Faeth
My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale 
for parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a 
rusty one would make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the 
midlevel of the doors is scorched off, so there would be little paint 
stripping required.  All the doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet 
metal is straight,  I found no damage to wiring, although the vacuum 
lines in the vicinity of the EGR are burned.  Has good hydraulic 
suspension components, including tandem pump.  Interior is intact, 
but will be smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a brand new radiator, front 
fenders and hood after bambi hit (0 miles since) New vacuum 
pump.  TIres are not burned.  Rear glass is broken out.  Windshield 
is cracked.  Paint on the inside of the doors is good.  Kaleb turned 
it down.  Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not 
marked as rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the 
time)  email to lfaeth a t leadingchange   c om


I will make pictures available to interested parties.

Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-01 Thread Loren Faeth
Front bumper is ok.  Rear bumper cover is melted  It is white 
exterior, blue interior.  Instrument cluster is good.  NO I have no 
time or place to part it out.  You can buy the whole thing for a song 
and do it yourself.


At 09:45 AM 10/1/2009, you wrote:

How are the bumpers?  Interior color?  Instrument cluster all work
right?  Are you going to part it out?

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 10:35 AM
To: mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale for
parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a rusty one
would make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the midlevel of
the doors is scorched off, so there would be little paint stripping
required.  All the doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet metal is
straight,  I found no damage to wiring, although the vacuum lines in the
vicinity of the EGR are burned.  Has good hydraulic suspension
components, including tandem pump.  Interior is intact, but will be
smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a brand new radiator, front fenders and
hood after bambi hit (0 miles since) New vacuum pump.  TIres are not
burned.  Rear glass is broken out.  Windshield is cracked.  Paint on the
inside of the doors is good.  Kaleb turned
it down.  Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not
marked as rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the
time)  email to lfaeth a t leadingchange   c om

I will make pictures available to interested parties.

Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-01 Thread Loren Faeth
No, it was one of 6 arsons,  one of three breakins and one of one 
tire slashings prior to the fire  (4 tractor drive tires.)  (Since 
may). In a formerly safe small town.  the local meat topping plant 
was sold to a big company, and the illegals were brought in.


They will never catch anyone, and if they do, they will never be punished.

At 10:35 AM 10/1/2009, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:

My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson)


Ouch. Any leads on the culprit(s)?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-01 Thread Loren Faeth

no, it was not my house.  SOL

At 11:13 AM 10/1/2009, you wrote:
Did homeowners policy cover something like that?  Just curious - 
seems like they would, unless it was too low?


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-01 Thread Loren Faeth
you don't buy anything from them directly.  they supply a lot of food 
companies.  If you think  you can hurt them, then don't eat pizza, or 
any factory meatballs (subway etc)  They make precooked meats.   I 
doubt they will notice the dent.


Fish, hunt, shoot, fill your freezer, and  you won't be supporting 
them.  Send your dues in to the NRA and the Ikes.


At 09:49 PM 10/1/2009, you wrote:

Loren wrote:
 the local meat topping plant was sold to a big
 company, and the illegals were brought in.

 They will never catch anyone, and if they do, they will never be punished.

We can punish the meat plant - give us a name and we won't be
purchasing their stuff anymore.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] battery drain 1985 300TD

2009-09-29 Thread Loren Faeth
The battery would drain on my 126 if the radio was turned off before 
I shut down the engine.  If I left the radio on, the drain did not 
occur.  The condition persisted after I had to replace the 
antenna.  It ended when the Becker dies and I replaced the radio with brand x.


At 12:29 PM 9/29/2009, you wrote:
Battery drain on my 126 was antenna circuit, but it continued even 
with antenna unplugged.  'Prob in ant. circuit in radio amp in trunk.


Wilton


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] battery drain 1985 300TD

2009-09-29 Thread Loren Faeth
UNplug them both, or pull the radio fuse and the antenna plug and see 
what happens.  Yes, the drain can be caused by the radio.  I don't 
know how, but it happened.


At 05:15 PM 9/29/2009, you wrote:

So the problem could be the radio and not the antenna?

On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 3:16 PM, Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.comwrote:

 The battery would drain on my 126 if the radio was turned off before I shut
 down the engine.  If I left the radio on, the drain did not occur.  The
 condition persisted after I had to replace the antenna.  It ended when the
 Becker dies and I replaced the radio with brand x.

 At 12:29 PM 9/29/2009, you wrote:

 Battery drain on my 126 was antenna circuit, but it continued even with
 antenna unplugged.  'Prob in ant. circuit in radio amp in trunk.

 Wilton


 Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] Proper Speed rating for tires for a W123

2009-09-28 Thread Loren Faeth
I would not put on a Jokohama tire if it was given to me along with a 
sack of money.  Those are killer tires, as in they can kill you. 
Tread unwraps on new tires at 70 MPH and does serious damge to your 
car.  In case you don't catch the subtlety of my post, you can call 
me and I'll tell you what I really think of jokohama.  (pronouunced 
joke o hama)



At 02:24 PM 9/28/2009, you wrote:

From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
I need new tires for my 300D.  Seems I recall from a prior thread 
that H rated tires are actually correct.  The sticker in the door 
frame seems to indicate an S rating is adequate.  TireRack's web 
site is recommending a Summitomo HTR H4 (an H rated all-season 
tire) at $51 each, or a Summitomo HTR 200 (an H rated summer tire).
Not to start a long debate, but does anyone have any other 
recommendations?  I'm not shopping for snow tires now, but will get 
them later in the fall.


Marshall said he had good service from Yokohama.  I've had no 
problem with them on the 300D but then I only drive locally on good 
roads and in Florida weather.

Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] Proper Speed rating for tires for a W123

2009-09-28 Thread Loren Faeth

you got your 240D to go over 90  mph?  how?  did you sneak an OM603 into it?

At 10:48 PM 9/28/2009, you wrote:

I'm not sure how fast you want to go, but I have Goodyear Regatta 2 tires on
my 240D (and our Buick), and I can attest to the fact that they don't blow
out at 90+ mph (in Oklahoma, heading down to an OkieQ). Plus, they go really
good on snow and glare ice.

Unfortunately, I think they have been replaced by something else -- same
tire, new name, higher costs. Integra, if memory serves me.

The 300E has top of the line Goodyear Assurance. Big bucks (approaching $100
a tire) but it turns a 2 wheel drive into a 4 wheel drive on snow/ice. And
this is my sucky-weather driver.



On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 10:21 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.eduwrote:

 I need new tires for my 300D.  Seems I recall from a prior thread that H
 rated tires are actually correct.  The sticker in the door frame seems to
 indicate an S rating is adequate.  TireRack's web site is recommending a
 Summitomo HTR H4 (an H rated all-season tire) at $51 each, or a Summitomo
 HTR 200 (an H rated summer tire).

 Not to start a long debate, but does anyone have any other recommendations?
  I'm not shopping for snow tires now, but will get them later in the fall.

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--
DPAD.

The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their
own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] clunker list

2009-09-27 Thread Loren Faeth
There were over 10,000 grand caravans on the list.  Close to 20,000 
if you count the crypsler version.  I called the dealer, and was told 
they didn't qualify, and sure  'nuff, after the epa dinked with the 
mileage list they magically got 19MPG rather than the prior 18.


I have a 2000 Grand caravan; if anyone wants to give me $3500, or 
$4500 for it, it is yours.


At 08:33 PM 9/25/2009, you wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://www.cars.gov/files/official-information/trade-in-vehicles.pdf
check out some of the MB's that got clunked.  Simply unbelievable.


As submitted, not necessarily reviewed or approved

Now, my understanding of the rules was they had to be old, but not 
older than 1984, and combined MPG of 18 or less. I'm seeing a lot of 
cars that I was sure didn't qualify, and a few that only a moron 
would crush for $4500, unless it was so decrepit that it would be an 
embarrassment to put on the road.


How about that DB7?
For the clunker deal, they'd have to be running/driving. What's a 
running DB7 parts car go for these days, $10,000?


One each 1991 M5 and 1991 M3. How in the world did the M3 qualify, I 
thought the overall MPG was in the 20-22 range, just like a 2.3-16?


Who would sell a 2005 Mazda RX-8 for $4500 or less? And since when 
did 2005 model cars qualify?


I thought my 2.3-16 was too fuel efficient to qualify, but here I 
see a clunked 1989 190D, and a 1993 190E 2.3, and a 1992 300D 2.5t. 
Why would we crush 30-35mpg diesels to replace them with 'fuel 
efficient' vehicles?


Don't tell Dave M, but somebody clunked a '92 500E.

What moron would try to clunk a 2008 9-3 Aero, for crying out loud?
Salvage value on a totaled car's got to be at least $4500.
But I wonder what the salvage yard would pay after you clunked the 
engine and then the feds failed your application for rebate?


TVR 280i, don't see one of those every day.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] howto for oil cooler line replacement?

2009-09-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Glad to hear you were able to pull it off without a major hitch.  The 
assembly/tightening sequence you describe is correct.


At 10:17 AM 9/27/2009, you wrote:

Finally got to this job yesterday... it's actually went better than I
expected.  I had no trouble removing the old lines.  I had treated the
fittings with the acetone/ATF mix a couple of times over the past few
weeks.  I don't know if that helped, but they did open up without
stripping the threads or damaging the cooler.  I used anti-sieze on the
threads when I installed the new lines.

The hardest part was getting the new lines into the clips.  My
suggestion for anyone doing this... attach the ends at the cooler first.
They have a rubber hose section so the rest of the pipe will still be
moveable.  If you attach and tighten the lines at the filter, you won't
be able to reposition them.

Once the cooler ends are attached, install the retaining clamps (one
above the AC compressor, one near the motor mount) loosely.  Then attach
the lines to the filter, but leave them loose enough that the pipes can
still move.  Tighten the retaining clamps, then the snug up the nuts on
the filter.

I also replaced my motor mounts... the trick here is to be sure the
engine is lifted high enough.  The old collapsed mounts will slide out
easily but if the engine is not high enough the new ones won't slip in.

Allan

Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com writes:

 Allan,

 You will be able to detect that some of this is tongue in cheek, but
 this is how I would recommend how to go about it.  It is mostly
 serious.  If you go through all the preparation steps, it will save
 you having to stop and go acquire something else.

 Preparation

 1.  Wash out the left side of the engine, hoses and oil cooler as well
 as you can at the carwash.  Steam cleaner is great, if you have access
 to one.  Wash upside down too.
 2. buy a spare oil cooler.  Chances are the threads will be buggered
 up on yours, one side or the other.
 3. get some Neverseize for the threads when you put the new hoses on.
 4. Secure alternate transportation for a week or two if the project
 runs the normal course, and you have to wait for parts.
 5.  Line up wrenches to fit the oil filter end (Adapter and nut) and
 the oil cooler end.
 6. soak the oil cooler ends (nuts) with penetrating oil for 1-4 weeks
 in advance.
 7.  Figure out a way to hold a 8-10 lb sledgehammer behind the nut
 while you whack it with a 2-4 lb hammer to loosen the corrosion.
 8. designate a set of clothes to get covered in Diesel motor oil
 9. buy a bag of floor dry
 10. put the car up so you can crawl under it
 11.  take a trial pull on the wrenches at the oil cooler fittings.
 Take care not to damage the oil cooler.  If things are normal, one
 will loosen with major effort, and the other won't.  Now you know
 which one is really corroded.
 12. line up an air grinder with a cutoff wheel, a dremel or some
 similar way to cut through the really stuck nut.

 The actual job:

 1.  Loosen oil filter cover  (It is a good time for an oil change)
 2.  Loosen the nuts at the oil cooler.  Drain oil into a catch pan.
 3.  Loosen the nuts at the oil filter
 4.  loosen clamps that hold the hoses
 5. remove the hoses, noting which one goes in which position and which
 one goes to which connection.  It is not easy, but it can be done.  I
 think I removed the left motor mount arm from the engine on the 240D
 to allow more room.  That means you need to support the engine from
 underneath.
 6. install new hoses in reverse, putting neverseize on the cooler 
end threads.


 Simple huh?

 Notes:
 Plan on getting a bath in oil.
 You will need a trouble light to see the bolts on the clamps
 For the nut that is really stuck:  We assume you have already soaked
 it for a month.  Next try beating on the nut with the hammer, being
 careful not to damage the body or the oil cooler or your fingers.  the
 goal is not so much to bash the nut as to pein it many times with
 enough force that the corrosion in the threads will loosen.  Rest, Go
 at it again.  If you have an air chisel, you can accomplish this
 easier with an air chisel, but it does not have the mass of the
 hammer, so it may not loosen the corrosion.

 If that doesn't work:

 Decision time:  You will either have to throw out the oil cooler with
 attached hose and use the new used one,
 OR make a cut through the nut to try to get it to pop so that the
 corrosion will loosen.  This is irreversible and may result in needing
 to use the new used oil cooler
 OR you can cut the ferrule off the old hose, remove the hose from the
 hose end, leaving the hose end on the oil cooler.  Then you have to
 cut the ferrule on the NEW hose, pull out the hose end, slide the hose
 onto the old hose end.  Put a clamp on it.

 The hardest thing (aside form getting the stuck nut loose) is to keep
 a wrench on the aluminum lug on the oil cooler while you try to get
 that nut off without getting the oil cooler messed up

[MBZ] Balancing ceiling fans WAS: Balancing a drive shaft

2009-09-27 Thread Loren Faeth
I have static balanced fan blade by weighing each blade, and adding 
weight.  I use washers rather than quarters.  a little cheaper!  This 
does not take into account any imbalance in the motor/blade 
mounts.  Your dynamic balancing does that.  But, as you indicated, it 
is not always straightforward.  THe static balance gets you close, 
then it can be supplemented, if necessary, with the dynamic balance.


At 10:36 AM 9/27/2009, you wrote:

Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net writes:

 It describes adding thicker nuts or larger washers on the rear flex disk
 mounting bolts to balance the rear section of the drive shaft - by trial
 and error.

 Yup, it sure does. Could be a real drag to get right!

Sounds like my attempts to balance ceiling fans by taping quarters to
the backs of the blades that I think are too light.  It is pure trial
and error.  You can study the wobble of the fan and think you know where
the weight needs to go, but often as not my intuition is incorrect.


--
1983 300D

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[MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

2009-09-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?  I 
read about them online once, and it seems there is quite a 
following  of the manufacturer's saws in the East.  Now I can't find 
the article or remember the name of the manufacturer.  I seem to 
recall the company was two surnames.


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Re: [MBZ] Throttle maddness

2009-09-25 Thread Loren Faeth
I got new metal sockets from Rusty for my dearly departed SDL.  Just 
order sockets for an 81 240D.  Those are metal and used to be sold as 
ends only.


At 06:40 AM 9/25/2009, you wrote:

Curt, do you regularly lube the linkage sockets with ATF?

Here here! on the plastic sockets.  Broke one, MB only sells entire rod
with sockets and for too high of a price, I was able to scrounge a rod
with metal sockets at pick-n-pull.

Max


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Re: [MBZ] Biobor

2009-09-24 Thread Loren Faeth

At 09:17 AM 9/23/2009, you wrote:

Will just using a biocide get rid of the water the bugs grow in, too?


No, thus, the suggestion of a filter-separator unit.




 Most trucks/tractors use a water separator first, then a fuel
 filter. A Stanadyne Master filter is a good addon for your MB. It
 can fit on a fender.

Didn't Marshall say that a Benz didn't need an additional water separator?


Probably, and he is right, so long as you don't get a slug of bad 
fuel.  The nice thing about a separator, is that you can just drain 
out the water.  The only way to do that with an MB factory filter is 
to drill a hole in the bottom of the filter case, then plug it with 
JBweld.  Not something I want to do.  (in the real world, when you 
drive around the countryside and can't always fill at a reliable 
supplier, you WILL get a slug of bad fuel.)


Even my frod Escort diesel had a water separator built into the 
filter.  It also had a fuel heater built into the filter unit.  The 
newer yanmar-derived (as opposed to Waterloo designed) JD I had (97 
5500N) used a single filter-separator unit It even shut off fuel when 
the water level got too high.


The guy I used for 30 years to work on my Inj nozzles and pumps had a 
Master filter on his MB Diesel.  I trust his judgement, because he 
has seen all kinds of failures.  I know this is sacrilege, but 
Marshall was wrong a few times.  He was a prince of a man and he was 
right 99% of the time.


The bottom line is: Water will cause damage to injector nozzles.  If 
you drive a Diesel long enough, you will get water and you will get 
bad fuel/dirt in fuel, and you will see crud in fuel.  The more 
lines of defense you have ahead of the IP, the better the chances are 
that you won't damage the pump and nozzles.  The largest group of 
problems with the early GM v-8 diesels was poor filtration and NO 
water separation.  The filters plugged often, and were hidden.  Water 
went through and ruined nozzles.  Adding a real filter separator made 
them somewhat reliable, but it was still a poor engine.





 For the Catheyesque setup, grab the filter/separator off a 4010 through
 4440 (at least) John Deere tractor in a junkyard.  Why buy new?

Excellent idea. Only I don't live in Iowa, eventhough I have applied for
physics professor positions there. I haven't even seen that kind of
tractor in northern New Mexico.


If you do a search for tractor salvage  you will find no end of 
choices.  We all order car parts from distant places.  No reason  you 
could not find a phone number online and call them up and order a 
used filter, if you want one.  I found 5 in Iowa on bigbook . c o m, 
and it didn't even list any of the ones I know of.

Call Jeff at 515-674-3001 (colfax tractor parts)


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Biobor

2009-09-24 Thread Loren Faeth
On my recent travels I happened to come across a West Marine store. 
They only had the BioGuard stuff.  It was a little over $25 with tax.


In defense of RELLY, it looks like biobor is packed in pints for the 
marine market, although I have never seen the product.


At 11:15 PM 9/22/2009, you wrote:

Well, I see two biocides on the West site add I think they are both OK:
Biobor JF Microbicide and BioGuard Fuel Microbiocide.  They are both $23 to
$25 a pint.  The goal is to prevent the microbes from growing at the
fuel-water interface.  As I recall, the live bugs live in the water but the
dead bugs get in the fuel and can goom up the injectors, etc.  The fuel
looks dark in color when this happens.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] water separators

2009-09-24 Thread Loren Faeth
No, but by its design, it can trap some small quantity of water.  At 
least is is not like the old GM filters that put fuel/water in the 
top and draw whatever liquid goes in, out the bottom, water first.


At 04:19 PM 9/24/2009, you wrote:
I can tell you there is no water separator built in.  If there was, 
there would be a way to drain the water out.


Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

You know, I was just wondering how to confirm Marshall's words and
determine the source of his knowledge on this water separator that is
supposed to be built in to the fuel filter.  How did you determine that
he was wrong?

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Max Dillon
'87 300TD 314k miles
Charleston SC



-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of relng...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 3:38 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] water separators


Didn't Marshall say that a Benz didn't need an additional 
water separator?..




He said that and he was flat wrong. I proved it on my own car. And there
was no factory water separation in stock form.

You know, not every single word uttered by him was the voice of God
speaking as some seem to believe.

RLE





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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] slow pressure rise

2009-09-24 Thread Loren Faeth

If you did not change them yourself, they were not changed.

IMHO, the only chance of getting those changed unless you changed 
them yourself, is a Mercedes only independent shop.  Others would be 
only too happy to charge you for changing them if you request, with a 
much less than 10% probability that they actually did change them.


At 05:06 PM 9/24/2009, you wrote:

Bill R wrote:

I always use Delvac 1 and change it about 10,000, though my mechanic says
15,000 should be ok.  I just don't like going that long.  It is quite
possible that the 'o' rings are old, though.  My nephew doesn't do much of
the work at his shop, so it is possible the mechanic [who always calls him
if there is something he is not familiar with] might not have changed them.
BillR


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] water separators

2009-09-24 Thread Loren Faeth
Can't argue with RELLY on this one.  It only takes a minuscule bit of 
water to ruin a nozzle.  Seems like a lot of consecutive problems, 
but the racor filter separator is a good unit.  I prefer the Master 
one, because good used  ones are available, and as I said in a 
previous post, you are never far from a JD Dealer, NAPA or FLAPS that 
sells the cartridges, even in urban areas.


As for fuel, the first bad load I got 20 some years ago was at a 
trusted high volume truckstop on the interstate.  The last one was at 
a coop elevator station.  Generally, the coops are real careful about 
their fuel, because the primary users are the people they need to 
stay in business. (Customers for the high dollar customers and 
services)  While I agree, a high volume truckstop is often the best, 
I have had good service from smaller locally owned stations.  Last 
summer I was buying fuel at a trusted supplier, and yet, in the 
period of only about 20 gallons of fuel consumption, the water 
separator shut down the engine twice.  At least the second time, I 
drained the separator first.  I still can't explain that one.  It 
either came out of the air or out of the fuel.  (or some from each source)


At 06:42 PM 9/24/2009, you wrote:

 ...Every diesel water separator I've ever seen (for instance the Racor
 unit often fitted to industrial diesels and easily available as an
 aftermarket kit, and the one integral with the fuel filter housing on
 VW TDIs) has a way to drain the accumulated water via a little petcock
 on the bottom or side.  Mercedes fuel filters have none such.  I may
 be wrong, but to me that's a strong clue that they don't perform any
 water separation...

You are certainly not wrong, despite certain statements to the contrary.

When I bought my 300D new, and having come from a 116 450SE, I was very
sensitive to random nailing. So whenever I started to hear it at idle, it was
off to the dealer for a resolution. Which is why, during the 50K mile
warranty period, they installed thirteen new injectors or injector tips and
carefully set the pop-off pressures in the replacements. Which were 
1850 psi at the

time for the NA diesels, I think.

Near the end of the warranty, I became aware of the Racor water separator
and purchased one from Seattle Injector for about $85.00 A friend and I
fabricated a steel bracket (not aluminum because of the vibrations) which was
mounted on the left fenderwell just opposite the main filter. The unit had an
integral 4 micron filter and a Lexan (not glass) bowl with a petcock at the
bottom. I plumbed the Racor inlet from the prefilter and the outlet to the
main filter with the correct clamps to guarantee that no air could sneak in.

From the day the Racor was installed, the sound of nailing was gone
forever. That's another 70K miles until I traded the car. Even 
though very little

water was ever observed trapped in the bowl which I drained frequently, I
know it doesn't take much to damage the injector tips by forcing 
water through

them. And that's where all my noise had come from before the Racor
installation.

BTW, and before anybody pipes up, my fuel always came from a high volume
station and even then, a bit of water seems to be unavoidable.

RLE




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Re: [MBZ] Idle Speed Too Fast

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth

You SURE it is set too fast?
I'd bet a sticky or out of adjustment linkage or dirt/crud under the 
footfeed pedal.

UNhook the linkages, and see how slow it will idle.
There is a whole series adjustments for the swing tube diesel 
linkages including limiting the RPM at top speed.  The OM621 has it 
in detail, and I think the 616 book does too.


I have seen bound up bellcranks on the exhaust side of the engine, 
crud under the pedal.  Rusty pedal hinges frm crud under the pedal, 
bunched up floormats and other stuff all cause stuck throttle//idle too fast.




At 03:18 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Hi All,

My 74 240D idle speed is too fast.  The idle speed control knob and 
throttle arms can increase speed but not reduce it because the 
vacuum-operated governor overrides it.  How do I reduce the idle 
speed setting on the governor?


Thanks,
Bruce



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Re: [MBZ] cheap 350SDL

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth
Could be the goofball just doesn't know to turn the steering wheel to 
take the pressure off the steering lock so the key will turn.  GUy 
put 2k on the car without transferring the title. Not someone I want 
to sell a car to.



At 07:19 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Yeah, I thought about the vibrating sander deal, too.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap 350SDL



Somebody needs a vibrating sander.
I'd be interested in knowing how he drove it 2000 miles without 
titling it in his name.

Mitch.

WILTON wrote:

A pity.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-350-SDL-1991-Mercedes-350SDL-Fix-or-parts-nice-car-in-Pa_W0QQitemZ290351980954QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item439a53a19a_trksid=p4506.c0.m245



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Re: [MBZ] OT A tidbit of knowledge

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth
Had a similar incident today.  Drove the SDL to pick up a couple of 
bolts for the SL.  Shut it off, came back, turned the key and all 
sorts of flashing lights and clicking relays.  Shut it off, tried 
again, same result.  Didn't have one tool in the car. (mistake 
#1)  Thought it was about like when the starter died in my other 
SDL.  Figured I was screwed.  Got out the tire iron to see if I could 
get the neg termonal off the battery.  Couldn't budge it.  What 
pounding I did, seemed to only push it on further.


Got in to call for help, and decided to try the key one more 
time.  Lights, and starter.  Everything is fine.  Now, I expect this 
crom corroded terminals.  But these had been cleaned and checked less 
than a month ago.  No corrosion.  Everything good, but too much 
resistance for good current flow.  Turning the terminal and pushing 
it further on, cured the problem.  At least I attacked the right 
problem, even though I thought it was a tangent.


At 08:27 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:
So today I get in my truck, start it, back down the driveway, it 
dies after about 30 ft.  Restart, hard to start, running sluggish, 
goes about 10 ft and dies.  I see the voltmeter showing about 
9V.  Hmm, noticed it was running a bit low on voltage a few days 
ago.  Get out and check all the cables and connections, think maybe 
the alternator is crapping out.
Positive wire on battery moves a bit but nut is tight.  Get a little 
wrench and torque it some anyway.  Truck starts and runs fine.


I guess it was just loose (lose) enough not to be making good 
contact, so alternator and battery not coexisting peacefully.


So, TIGHTEN YOUR BATTERY CABLES if something like that happens to you.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] ticketable

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth
Amen, and this discussion would NOT come up if everyone paid their 
own bills, instead of expecting Nanny to do it for them.  This 
country was created by REAL MEN and WOMEN, not the bunch of whining 
wimps that inhabit the country now.


If YOU  expect ME to pay YOUR bills, then I have a RIGHT to say Pull 
the plug!  Or: DNR for Bikers with out helmets or drivers without 
seatbelts.  Yes it is WRONG.  But that is what happens when YOU 
expect ME to pay YOUR bills because you got the Gummit to steal my 
money  That is WRONG, and it IS unconstitutional.



At 09:43 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 10:19:47 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Who exactly pulls the plug? Do we wheel Timmy up to you and you give
 thumbs up or thumbs down deciding if he lives or dies?

 In fact there probably should be a board of physicians someplace that
 does that very thing. It'd hurt like hell if you had a loved one who got
 the thumbs down but it'd be over... My wife's uncle is severely retarded
 mentally and physically and has been that way his whole life. He's been
 provided for his entire existence while providing nothing for the common
 good... 40 years ago this could have been headed off.

With what? Assisted suicide?

I think our nation's founders had a better idea:

We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created
equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain
unalienable Rights, that among these are Life ...



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Idle Speed Too Fast

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth
you sure there is no vacuum leak?  Basically, the IP and governor are 
not serviceable items, except on a multi-tens of thousands of dollars 
IP test stand.


Before you pull the pull and condemn the IP, make sure you have 
eliminated all other possibilities.


I would remove the vacuum line and inspect every m of it, then put it 
back with NEW seals and try it again.  If the steel line is rubbing, 
it can wear through.  It can also rust through, although old diesels 
usually keep the engine compartment well lubricated, so rust is 
generally not an issue on that line.


Is there any other source of oil into the intake?  Excessive 
blowby?  anything that is combustible that can get into the intake is 
used as fuel.



At 10:24 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Loren and Kaleb,
I disconnected all linkages at the IP and intake, and backed out all 
the adjustment screws, and am still unable to reduce the idle 
speed.  It seems to be only controlled by the vacuum line and the 
governor.  There must be a direct control of the governor somewhere, 
I just can't locate it.

Thanks,
Bruce




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[MBZ] 380SL Timing chain and rails

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth


This is the third installment.  Will try to get the photos with the 
three pieces and make a decent article.  There my be a few minor 
steps I skip in the writeup, because I am assuming an average or 
better mechanic skill level before you would attempt to change a 
chain and rails.  There may be big steps I skip too, because I am 
completing each piece from memory after I am cleaned up, not while I 
am doing the work.  M116 engine type in 1985 380SL.  153k miles.


Finished up the job today.   I wired up the chain and removed the 
sprocket on the right cam, after making sure the match marks I had 
put in earlier were still visible.  The tensioner banana rail pin 
would not come out as advertised. I put an ezout in it, tapped it and 
turned.  Nothing happened.  Kept trying, and could not get the pin to 
budge.  Considered pulling the radiator, but the evap would still be 
in the way.  Then I remembered Rusty said the cover was 
removable.  took the new rail and removed and replaced the cover a 
couple of times.  Could it be done with the rail in the engine?  It 
was easy enough to slide off the old cover and pull it out with needlenose.
Could not get the new one to hook in at both top and bottom.  Then I 
tried just hooking the bottom, but every time I pushed it down enough 
to hook the top, the bottom came off.  Finally went back to the new 
rail with the new cover and put in on and off.  I found the trick.


Hook the bottom end on the aluminum rail, put a loop of wire around 
the cover.  Pull up on the loop of wire while pushing the op end down 
into the slot.  as the top end slides up, release the wire.  Check to 
see both top and bottom are secured to the rail.  Cut the wire and 
remove it.  Now cap the pin.  the cover is supposed to have an aluminum seal.


Install the upper rail.  Seat all the rail pins after checking all 
rails again.  I used a 5/16 pin punch to seat the pins.  On earlier 
engine s I used to fill the internal threads of the pins with moly 
grease to protect the threads.  You may or may not want to do this. 
Replace the right cam sprocket onto the cam.


Install the chain replacement tool. Cut the old chain, being careful 
not to get filings in the chain case.  Rags or paper towels around 
everything also keeps parts of the link or master link from dropping 
down, a MAJOR problem.  I once had to take an engine out and tear it 
down because i dropped a link, and it wedged in the crank sprocket.


Connect the new chain to the old using the master link.  TUrn the 
crank to roll in the new chain.  It takes quite a few revolutions to 
get the new chain in.  In the beginning, you my need to help the old 
and new chains along, but once it has 10 or 20 links in, both the 
chains self feed.  Remove the master.  COnnect the ends of the new 
chain with the new master link. My new master had 2 tiny c clips in 
place of the peened link.  Nasty little buggers, but they snapped on 
ok.  Check the c cplips very very carefully.  This may be the most 
critical step of the operation.  A lost c clip can mean a trashed 
engine.  Remove the chain replacement tool.  install a NEW 
tensioner.  I used a piece of 1x4 to pry the tensioner close enough 
to start the bolts.


turn the engine over slowly to #1 TDC and check the timing marks on 
the camshafts.  If you were able to roll in the chain, you should be 
ok.  Install PS pump plate  Install the PS pump and adjust the 
belt.  Install the distributor, but don't tighten the bolt 
yet.  Replace cap and wires.  INstall the Alternator 
bracket.  install and adjust the alt. belt.


Replace valve covers.  You may want to replace the gaskets.  I could 
not get the left valve cover off the engine.  just raised it up 
enough to clear the cam sprocket.  I put a new gasket on the right 
one.  The valve cover bolts are supposed to have aluminum 
washers.  You did order some, didn't you?  I didn't because i didn't 
know they were there.


At this point, I turned the engine over by hand a couple of times 
then started it.  It ran, so I adjusted the dist by ear for fastest 
idle.  I pick a midway point in the travel at the highest speed.  You 
don't want it too advanced or too retarded.  Then I shut off the 
engine and replaced the fan and shroud, radiator hose and vent hose, 
air cleaner and its hoses, after a genral check of the engine top to 
make sure I didn't leave any tools there.


I know, y'all need fancy tools to set the dist.  But my pappy set the 
timing by ear, and one of the best mechanics I ever knew did 
too.  Every time I have done it and then had the timing checked, it 
was right, and didn't need to be adjusted.  So now, I just go with 
it, and don't bother with timing lights and dwell meters, computers, etc.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Knock slosh

2009-09-21 Thread Loren Faeth
Do you have the hard return lines on that engine?  Those are a collar 
type fitting held down with a nut.   They can be buggers to get 
sealed.  You can try loosening the banjo bolt where the collar meets 
the hard line.  that allows some flexibility.


Peter is right, of course about the body seal and the crush 
washer/heat shield between the tip and the prechamber.  Those have to 
be replaces each time the injector nozzle holder is removed.


At 07:12 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote:

Got the injectors installed and Gump starts and runs with more power
than I recall her ever having.

Problem is that the injectors are leaking at the body and I have a
pretty severe knock coming on.  I did not replace the spacer in each
cylinder, just left what was there in.  I think they are all the same
anyway.

I guess I need to remove and retorque the injectors to deal with the
leaking fuel, but what else should I be doing?

clay
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Re: [MBZ] W115 300D on Ebay

2009-09-20 Thread Loren Faeth
Sounds like a deal if anyone is close.  Rust is not too bad.  It 
would run a long time for few $$.


At 07:36 AM 9/20/2009, you wrote:




Attention:  Curt

$360 with one day to go.  11 bids from 3 bidders (9 from one guy--- 
is that you, Curt?).  And a shot to take back the 'cheapest jalopy' 
award at next year's ChowdahQ!  :)




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=170383099967viewitem=sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT



No affiliation, but I'd like to see it go to a good home.



Tom Schuch

SE Connecticut

1975 W115 300D

and a bunch of feral BMWs

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Re: [MBZ] ticketable

2009-09-20 Thread Loren Faeth

Some people have all the luck!

You don't have to be a violator to get a ticket.  It is just 
another gummit program to raise money.  They will give you a ticket 
and lie under oath if they decide they want to get you.  You for sure 
don't have to be speeding to get a speeding ticket.  The cops know 
they are very difficult and expensive to fight.  They bank on you 
rolling over and paying the fine.


Why do you think speed limits are set 10-20 MPH (or more) under a 
reasonable and prudent  speed for the stretch of road?  Why have 
speed limits at all  They only became popular after some 
jurisdictions produced a lot of revenue from speed traps.



Pete, who has never been ticketd when he was driving at of w/in 
10mph of the limit


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Biobor

2009-09-20 Thread Loren Faeth
In Diesel, you DO NOT want to disperse the water in the fuel.  You 
want to use an agent to precipitate out water, so it can be trapped 
in a water separator/fuel filter.  Dispersed water is bad for 
Injection systems.


In gasoline, you want alcohol in the gas to disperse water.
the BQ-9000 standard for BioDiesel is all about removing alcohol, 
glycerine and soaps form Diesel fuel.  Alcohol is used in the 
production process.  It displaces the glycerol from the feedstock, 
thus freeing glycerine, which is separated.


Granny used lye and fat to make soap.  The catalyst for BioD 
production can be lye or similar alkaline compounds, so soap is an 
impurity formed in the production of BioD.


The reason it is so critical to remove the alcohol from the fuel is 
that it disperses water in fuel, causing Injection system damage.


Use a Biocide as needed.  The fuel additives may or may not be 
necessary.  There are lots of good Diesel fuel conditioners.  BG 
makes a good one.  Howes is widely used in trucks.  Almost every 
truckstop carries it.  Amsoil makes a good one.  I'd stay away form 
the ones in McParts unless you also find it at good truckstops.


Most trucks/tractors use a water separator first, then a fuel 
filter.  A Stanadyne Master filter is a good addon for your MB.  It 
can fit on a fender.  The line from the transfer pump goes in the 
bottom of the separator.  Fuel is taken form the top of the 
separator, and fed to the filter inlet, and the fuel filter outlet 
goes to the MB factory filter.  For the Catheyesque setup, grab the 
filter/separator off a 4010 through 4440 (at least) John Deere 
tractor in a junkyard.  Why buy new?


The glass bowls make it easy to see if you have dark fuel, and need 
to add biocide.



At 09:36 PM 9/20/2009, you wrote:

On Fri, 18 Sep 2009 22:18:10 -0400 Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
wrote:

 My 82 300 SD gets little use these days so I keep a bottle of Biobor in
 the trunk and add the specified amount at every fillup.  It doesn't take
 much so the bottle lasts a while.  The plastic bottle has a gizmo that
 lets you squeeze the required amount into a small chamber to pour in the
 tank so it's pretty convenient.  I generally get it from West Marine.

I went to West Marine's website and found Biobor JF Fuel Anti-fungal
listed on http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=394 ($22.99/pint).
Is this the right stuff?

Marshall also said that one needed to disperse/get rid of water, but I
don't recall him mentioning a product for that task. The same page lists
ValvTect Marine Diesel Additive with BioGuard. Is this an appropriate
thing to use in addition/instead of the Biobor JF?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W123 tank screen

2009-09-19 Thread Loren Faeth
THat is dried up now, but might still show the effect of a biocide to 
disperse the stuff if I put it into a fuel/water mix.  You are right, 
I forgot about the nature of the freight companies and dissel 
fuel.  You are probably a terrorist anyhow?


Try shipping me the screen with the dried crud on it.  I'll see if 
will act as a starter culture to grow some crud.  THat way the PO 
will only see a screen with some crud.



At 08:28 PM 9/18/2009, you wrote:

Loren wrote:
 If someone will send me a sample with live algae...

What is live?
I have the old gunked screen still.
It has been sitting outside in warm weather and sun - is that alive?
Although, I bet USPS will not allow me to ship, as it is fuel, and may
explode upon extreme compression.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] W123 tank screen

2009-09-19 Thread Loren Faeth

yep, that's the plan


At 07:35 AM 9/19/2009, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:

Try shipping me the screen with the dried crud on it.  I'll see if 
will act as a starter culture to grow some crud.  THat way the PO 
will only see a screen with some crud.


IIRC, the crud lives in water, and eats diesel, so its natural 
environment is the water/fuel boundary in the tank. (in other words, 
you'll need water to grow crud)


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Snook??

2009-09-19 Thread Loren Faeth
That sounds like every shyster's dream!  A client with a big positive 
bank balance and a more or less blank check for fees!


SNook will be buying a new BMW in 4 weeks or so

At 07:34 PM 9/19/2009, you wrote:
My instructions are something along the lines of scorched earth or 
full steam ahead, or ramming speed or Damn the torpedos!  or 
more colloquially, Go kick their ass!


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL timing chain project

2009-09-18 Thread Loren Faeth
I got pretty far with the project yesterday.  I had hoped to finish 
it, but that was not in the cards.  Have to remove the alt bracket on 
the right to expose the right head front face to remove rail 
pins.  On the left, the PS pump and the PS Pump mount have to come 
off.  I took some pictures of the mixed mode methods I used to pull 
the pins.  Got the engine to TDC#1.  Marked the first plug wire for 
each bank.  Removed the cap.  TDC#1 position leaves the rotor at the 
12:30-1 position.  Removed the bolt for the DIst.  Pulled the dist, 
observing the rotor position as the gear disengages.  It is Just 
about 12:00 position.  Pulled the pins.  Top rail, left bank was 
broken, and the piece was visible.


Nother trip to HF, this time for 1/2 metric sockets and a spring 
loaded clamp to remove the piece down in the head/block


Got the piece out.  Trimmed the tail of the Left top new rail, to aid 
in prevention of future failure by breaking off the tail.


Removed the tensioner.  Determined the tensioner side has a banana 
rail.  I was shipped a short rail!  OOPS! GAME OVER!


Called the Q man.  He sent the right piece next day, So I hope to 
have it today.


I tried to find the bottom pin for the banana rail.  It is behind a 
cap.  The cap uses a 6mm allen wrench.  Got the cap off.  the pin is 
hollow, and there is nothing to pull it with. Mr. Q didn't know the 
way the banana rail was held in.  So I called another resource. Mr. 
Vernon at Mercedes Specialists of Seminary, MS was kind enough to 
tell me the trick.  He said take a ezout and tap it into the pin, 
then pull on the ezout.  I am waiting for the new rail before I pull that pin.


Nother trip to HF for a mirror and ezouts.

Wired the chain to the cam sprockets in 2 places for each 
sprocket.  marked the chain and sprocket for alignment.  Checked to 
see the cam mark and the cam tower marks lined up on each side, they 
did, less the degrees of chain stretch.  Removed the left sprocket to 
allow removal of the lower rail.  Replaced both rails on the left 
side, using the trimmed one on top.  removed right 
sprocket.  replaced left sprocket, but had to turn crank backwards 10 
degrees to get the key to line up.


That is where i quit until the rail arrives.




Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL timing chain project

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth
I have the 3/4 set at home, but not here.  I just got a 1/2 
extension set for $10, cuz I already had the socket, breaker bar and rachet.


Has anyone BTDT with the M116 Distributor RR?  Anything to watch out 
for beyond the normal (TDC, Get it back in the right tooth, right 
rotation in the block, hook up the wores right...) Thanks


At 07:23 AM 9/17/2009, you wrote:
determined my 1 1/8 deep socket will fit on the crank, but don't 
have the right extensions.
Fortunately, I am doing this job 3 blocks from HF, so it will be 
easy to get extensions in the am


I have their 3/4 socket set, which has two different extensions
and two drivers.  (1 ratchet, one not.)  Along with a full set of
sockets from 19mm on up to whatever.  Highly recommended for use
on MB's, I think that's all I ever use it for.  (Crank bolt, fuel
tank sender, steering idler arm, etc.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Emergency shutdown - was: ChowdahQ and the W115 on

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth



Hard to do with this auto trans crap MBNA keeps cramming down our throats.

At 09:46 AM 9/17/2009, you wrote:

Even more technical is keep the car in gear and slowly release the 
clutch until the car stalls.


Sent from my iPhone


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Emergency shutdown - was: ChowdahQ and the W115 on

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth
On my old 200D (cable shutdown), I unhooked the start,shutoff cable 
and ran a aux cable into the cabin.  Mounted it under the dash and 
made a pull ring out of a piece of 1.5 square tubing  Used that for 
shutdown.  Then I could push in the start switch, lock the ign and 
steering, lock the car and leave the car idle to run in and out, or 
if it was really cold out.  Starting was normal, but I separated the 
shutdown function from the multi-purpose push-pull/ignition 
switch.  It worked really well.



At 09:50 AM 9/17/2009, you wrote:

Yes-my brother ran a cable out under the fender well with a loop to pull
shutoff on his 240D. (Now mine with new vacuum pull off switch)

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 218K + miles.
1990 300D 2.5t 170K miles.
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Emergency shutdown - was: ChowdahQ and the W115 on

WILTON wrote:
 I also performed this highly technical feat on my 80 240D many years ago
 when it had a vac leak.  I had long before already read STOP ENGINE
 emblazoned in red and white on the lever near the IP, so I was ready.

Instead of running a hose to the vac shutoff, you could run a wire to the
shutoff lever. I never did figure out why my 300SD's shutoff lever takes as
much
effort as Clay's starter switch, while my 190D and 300D shut off with light
finger pressure.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W123 tank screen

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth
Hmmm  Guess Stanadyne stopped selling their biocide.  THat must be 
why nobody can find it.  I bet marinas still have some of biocide.  I 
will try to find more info/sources.


That newsletter is dated 2001, and I know I got Stanadyne Biocide in 
2005 or so.  I could have been that the Diesel shops stocked up 
before it became NLA.  Looks like Stanadyne wimped out in the face of 
more and more onerous gummit gumups (regulations).


There has to be a way.

If someone will send me a sample with live algae, I will see what i 
can find that works.  I am sure something available at home 
despots/lows/maynerds will work.


At 12:20 PM 9/17/2009, you wrote:
Here is Stanadyne website that describes use and availability of 
additives, biocides, etc.


http://www.stanadyne.com/docs/puba/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20QA%20on%20additives.pdf

Gerry

From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com

It is hard to find.  Others have said that marine stores and bigger
marinas carry it.  I have never seen a Power Service product that was
a true biocide.  They might have one.  Most of what is around here is
a fuel treatment but doesn't say it contains a biocide.

I need to find some again.  It has been too long since i treated
my  Dissel tanks, and I now have some new fleet members.

I used to get it from the Diesel injection shops, but both the owners
retired, and both shops closed.  Bummer.

Stanadyne makes a true Biocide.  Most injection systems fail because
of black gunk (algae) not because of wear.

Until ULSD.  I have seen several 20-30 yr old roosa//CAV/Lucas rotary
pumps fail when ULSD became the law.  Body orings fail, and the pumps
leak at body joints.



Loren wrote:
 If the gunk was black, you need to put stanadyne Biocide
no biocide at stanadyne website - do you have sourse for stanadyne biocide?
only biocide using google is power service - which is fine.
mao



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Re: [MBZ] BAD 300D 2.5T

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth

Start simple.

Sounds like it might be ok at idle to 1200 RPM or so.  Change fuel 
filters.  IF the tank is not real full, you might want to check the 
tank screen.  Try that first, if it is ok at low rpm.  How long since 
you tanked up?



At 07:16 PM 9/17/2009, you wrote:

On the way home today, about 3 miles from home, the '92 300D 2.5T lost power
and would only hold 60 mph in third gear, pedal to the floor, spewing grey
smoke. Came to a stop light, it idled smoothly and normally. Accelerating
when it turned green, the car had little power, started knocking, and
running rough at 1600rpm. I could get it up to about 2100-2200rpmmax. Let
off the fuel and let it shift to the next higher gear, and it would slowly
accelerate up again, same as before.

When I got home, I opened the hood, expecting to find the pressure line to
the ALDA, etc. off - but it all looks to be in place. With no load, rev'ing
the engine results in the shacking, missing, knocking, and lots of smoke
(grey) out the back. The smoke smells like raw Diesel.

Any ideas where to start trouble shooting?

--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] Biobor

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth



If you read the page, it says Biobor is available in 5 gallon or 55 
gallon  drums.


A pint of the stanadyne stuff was enough to keep several diesels 
happy for several years.  How may gallons will a 5 gallon can treat, 
and how many years does it take you to use that many gallons of 
fuel?   I use between 1000 and 2500 gallons a year.  That is roughly 
20k to 50 k a year, depending on the VHickle.  But you don't need 
to treat every tank.  Just once in a while in the summer or if you 
get a load of bad fuel.  So a pint is good for several years.  5 
gallons would probably last me 100 years.




At 09:59 PM 9/17/2009, you wrote:

 ...http://www.conntect.com/fueladditives/biobor/..

There you are. Debunks that nonsense about being prohibited by the gummint.


RLE


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Re: [MBZ] BAD 300D 2.5T

2009-09-17 Thread Loren Faeth
Did the car first downshift or start to shift late, before you 
noticed the loss in power?  ON OM603s Auto trans, that is the first 
sign of a plugged fuel filter.  Fuel filters can plug rapidly.  The 
suggestions about air in fuel lines is also quite possible, but in my 
experience, the first sign of that is longer cranking time on a cold start.


Check fuel flow and delivery volume after the filter.

If you recently fueled, then that is also an indication you may have 
bad fuel.  Smell the fuel.  It may be gasoline or a gasoline 
mixture.  Both tank drivers and dissel car owners have been known to 
put gasoline in the Dissel tank.


If you did not recently fuel, then it still can be a plugged filter.


At 07:16 PM 9/17/2009, you wrote:

On the way home today, about 3 miles from home, the '92 300D 2.5T lost power
and would only hold 60 mph in third gear, pedal to the floor, spewing grey
smoke. Came to a stop light, it idled smoothly and normally. Accelerating
when it turned green, the car had little power, started knocking, and
running rough at 1600rpm. I could get it up to about 2100-2200rpmmax. Let
off the fuel and let it shift to the next higher gear, and it would slowly
accelerate up again, same as before.

When I got home, I opened the hood, expecting to find the pressure line to
the ALDA, etc. off - but it all looks to be in place. With no load, rev'ing
the engine results in the shacking, missing, knocking, and lots of smoke
(grey) out the back. The smoke smells like raw Diesel.

Any ideas where to start trouble shooting?

--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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[MBZ] 380SL timing chain project

2009-09-16 Thread Loren Faeth
Finally got the parts tonight. Chain, Link, tensioner, 4 rails, 2 
valve cover gaskets.  Don't know yet what else i will need but didn't order.


 Started removing stuff.  It would have been a good time to replace 
belts, as the WP belts have to be removed to get the PS pump loose to 
remove the PS mounting plate to be able to get to the chain guide 
pins.  Alt belt has to come off too.


Removed air cleaner
removed fan and shroud.  Really like the old 4 bolt fan as opposed to 
the newer one bolt taper fit (and bung the radiator and your hands) 
method.  Dumped some antifreeze on the floor while pulling upper 
radiator hose.  Good time for replacing the upper hose too, if your 
car needs one.  Also a good time to change antifreeze.

Removed Cruise control servo
Removed Rt valve cover
Removed Alt Mounting , moved to the side
Removed PS pump
Removed PS pump bracket
determined my 1 1/8 deep socket will fit on the crank, but don't have 
the right extensions.
Fortunately, I am doing this job 3 blocks from HF, so it will be easy 
to get extensions in the am
Determined the Distributor has to be removed to get the upper rail on 
the Left head  (BUMMER)

Quit for the night

Will determine TDC #1 in the morning; mark everything related to IGN. 
so it can be put back.  (includes match marks on the dist and Dist mounting.)
Will probably invest in a steering wheel puller at HF also.  The 
chain rail pins are on recessed surfaces.  The front of the heads is 
not FLAT, like the front of cast iron Diesel blocks.  I think the 
wheel puller bar will span the flats, so that there is enough pull to 
get started.  Not enough flat surface around the pins to use a stack 
of washers or a socket to pull them with a bolt.


Not as easy as I had hoped, however the tensioner is accessible 
unlike a cast iron Diesel with a yorkie compressor bracket. (or even without)


A guy up the road loaned me a tool he invented and made that mounts 
on the right head and holds the chain tight while you break it and 
roll in the new chain.  Really slick.  Will take pictures and post 
later.  He said Snappy sells the tool now.  Probably $469.  Yeouch!


He said the job takes lots of vicegrips and lots of time without the 
tool.  I Sure am glad I bumped into his wisdom before I embarked on 
this adventure.  It is not as easy as an inline MB engine.  (old 
Diesels preferred)


I have not determined if any of the guides have broken off and fallen 
in.  The chain DOES show wear on the outside of the links, indicating 
it is rubbing somewhere.  a sure sign of worn chain and maybe worn out rails.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] W123 tank screen

2009-09-16 Thread Loren Faeth
It is hard to find.  Others have said that marine stores and bigger 
marinas carry it.  I have never seen a Power Service product that was 
a true biocide.  They might have one.  Most of what is around here is 
a fuel treatment but doesn't say it contains a biocide.


I need to find some again.  It has been too long since i treated 
my  Dissel tanks, and I now have some new fleet members.


I used to get it from the Diesel injection shops, but both the owners 
retired, and both shops closed.  Bummer.


Stanadyne makes a true Biocide.  Most injection systems fail because 
of black gunk (algae) not because of wear.


Until ULSD.  I have seen several 20-30 yr old roosa//CAV/Lucas rotary 
pumps fail when ULSD became the law.  Body orings fail, and the pumps 
leak at body joints.



At 10:17 PM 9/16/2009, you wrote:

Loren wrote:
 If the gunk was black, you need to put stanadyne Biocide

no biocide at stanadyne website - do you have sourse for stanadyne biocide?
only biocide using google is power service - which is fine.
mao

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[MBZ] Secret message to John Robbins and Snook

2009-09-16 Thread Loren Faeth

Where's waldo?

Near your parents, cuz that 's where the SL is.

Not too far form RUss Williams and Harry


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Re: [MBZ] W123 tank screen

2009-09-15 Thread Loren Faeth
If the gunk was black, you need to put stanadyne Biocide in the tank 
per instruction on the package.



At 09:20 PM 9/15/2009, you wrote:

My son did the work, and we changed the fuel tank screen tonight.
The old one was quite gunked up.
We unscrewed the hose from off the screen and fuel barely dribbled
out.  Socket would fit on the screen nut, but not able to get a handle
onto the socket as the half shaft was in the way.  The solution was to
use a chisel, so the old screen got a bit bunged up.  After a few hits
with chisel, fuel started coming out in steady stream - about 2
gallons.

Are you supposed to remove the half shaft to get to the tank screen?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] assist with diagnosis on no start

2009-09-15 Thread Loren Faeth
Starting fluid = bad  Unless you like spending time and money for 
prechambers.  (or enjoy hearing the prechamber ends or balls bouncing 
around it the cylinder until they go out the exhaust valve or get 
embedded on the piston top.


Test the glowplugs, change the bad ones., could also be a bad relay, 
and no glowing at all.




At 09:23 PM 9/15/2009, you wrote:

I ONCE again MISS Marshall.

On Sun, Sep 13, 2009 at 12:18 PM, drcscru...@aol.com wrote:


 The car (300sd) is hard to start.  My thought is it is the glow plugs?  The
 glow plug light comes on and goes off (like it is supposed to do) but will
 not start without just a puff of starter fluid.  After the engine 
has warmed
 up it starts without hesitation.  It seems to run well after 
starting, tho I

 don't think the turbo is kicking in when it is supposed to do so (vacuum
 issue?).  Anyway, I got this car for the engine (rust bucket) as it seemed
 to run pretty well, but is too slooow or non start (without assist).




--
DPAD.

The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their
own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
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Re: [MBZ] Linux webserver botnet pushes malware

2009-09-14 Thread Loren Faeth
My point exactly.  Every OS is vulnerable in some way.  (Many ways) 
You tried to worm out by saying the malware was not a virus.  THen 
you went on to say they probably installed a rootkit.   It is 
malware, and malware is malware, whether some piece of it is legit 
or not.  Linux is vulnerable to malware.  Those who claim otherwise 
are fools.  Whether the malware is technically a virus or not is immaterial.





At 04:49 AM 9/14/2009, you wrote:

The infected machines/vm's were probably behind on software updates.
Linux still has that fatal flaw called the user, if the user doesn't
update when a bug is found and patched, then the system stays
vulnerable.

In all, what probably happened was a service on the servers was
vulnerable in some way, the attacker rooted the box, and then
installed nginx(which is not a virus, it's a legit web server) on a
non-standard port, and Bob's your uncle, you got a place to serve
whatever ya want.

Just my 2 cents.

On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 12:01 AM, Loren Faeth 
lfa...@leadingchange.com wrote:






 Uh, Wonko, what was that about no virus on linux.  We all know it is
 invincible because it is open source...

 RIGHT!  WHO IS THIS REALLY? (Noah)


 At 03:23 PM 9/12/2009, you wrote:

 Attack of the open source zombies
 ...
 A security researcher has discovered a cluster of infected Linux servers
 that have been corralled into a special ops botnet of sorts and used to
 distribute malware to unwitting people browsing the web.
 Each of the infected machines examined so far is a dedicated or virtual
 dedicated server running a legitimate website, Denis Sinegubko, an
 independent researcher based in Magnitogorsk, Russia, told The 
Register. But

 in addition to running an Apache webserver to dish up benign content,
 they've also been hacked to run a second webserver known as nginx, which
 serves malware.

 What we see here is a long awaited botnet of zombie web servers! A group
 of interconnected infected web servers with [a] common control center
 involved in malware distribution, Sinegubko wrote here. To make things
 more complex, this botnet of web servers is connected with the botnet of
 infected home computer(s).
 The finding highlights the continuing evolution of bot herders as they
 look for new ways to issue commands to the hundreds of thousands 
of infected

 zombies under their control. It came the same day anti-virus provider
 Symantec reported Google Groups was being used as a master 
control channel

 for a recently discovered trojan. Four weeks ago, a researcher from Arbor
 Networks made a similar discovery when he found several Twitter profiles
 being used to run a botnet.snip
 http://www.theregister.co.uk/2009/09/12/linux_zombies_push_malware/

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 Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] Linux webserver botnet pushes malware

2009-09-14 Thread Loren Faeth
You are technically right.  But for most of us the distinction 
between malware and software used to install malware is a distinction 
without a meaningful difference.  Nice explanation.


I bestow on you one of my highly coveted detail awards otherwise 
known as the anal retentive award.  It is the highest honor I bestow 
in the IT world.  I have not given one out for years!  One guy earned 
one with such high distinction that no awards have been given 
since.  He became the reigning king, and the monthly awards were 
ceased, because all contestants concurred that nobody could beat 
him.  Congratulations.  (That is serious and sincere.)  You seriously 
and sincerely gave a great explanation!  I apologize for using the shortcut.


I tend to group malware of any form and the distribution of such all 
under the term malware.  In my outlook, legit software used for 
malicious purpose is still malware.  Technically, you are 
correct.  From the perspective of the result, it really doesn't 
matter if legit software is used for malicious purpose or if it was 
malicious software, the result is still a malicious attack.  That is 
my shortcut.


Probably you are right about not updated, but then there are all the 
things that some updates break, and that leaves most of us jaded 
and reluctant to install updates, particularly on the winders 
platform.  I have advocated on Windows to not install a SP until the 
next SP is out.  By then , the patches may be patched enough to not 
cause big problems.


It is scary out there.  Using a Non-M$ platform is one defense, but 
that defense is not infallible as many have claimed.  Using a non-M$ 
browser is another defense, but there are still lots of 
vulnerabilities and attacks not addressed by those two strategies.


At 12:38 PM 9/14/2009, you wrote:

I didn't try to worm-out of it, I was just correcting the article's
mistake in saying that the webserver that was installed was mallware.
It was just the means of putting the malware on the net.

When I said they rooted the box, I was referring to gaining access to
the root account, analogous to the admin account on windows, which is
usually done through an escalation of privileges that is brought
around by a buffer overflow or some other vulnerability in a piece of
software that is running on the machine. My apologies for not
clarifying that in the original message.

It would be like someone doing the reboot to safe-mode admin account
workaround on XP home edition, creating a new administrator account,
logging into that account, and then enabling remote desktop and
sharing a folder on your computer that was filled with malware. In
that case, there was no root kit installed, no malware installed, and
yet there still was a security breach.

It's not technically a virus, or malware that got them in, it was a
clever exploitation of a vulnerability, that may or may not have been
there because of a lack of upkeep and maintenance.

I agree, every system is vulnerable in some way, some systems are just
more hardened than others, and Linux/Unix/Mac are currently more
secure, on average, than windows.(at least XP through 3.1, vista made
some small leaps with UAC, and I can't speak for windows 7)

But again, in the end, it comes down to the user/sysadmin keeping the
system up to date and patched.

For the record I am a Linux user, and therefore am slightly biased,
but I try to keep my opinions out of matters and deal with the facts.

I hope nothing I've said comes across as arrogant or leaves the wrong
impression.

On 9/14/09, Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com wrote:
 My point exactly.  Every OS is vulnerable in some way.  (Many ways)
 You tried to worm out by saying the malware was not a virus.  THen
 you went on to say they probably installed a rootkit.   It is
 malware, and malware is malware, whether some piece of it is legit
 or not.  Linux is vulnerable to malware.  Those who claim otherwise
 are fools.  Whether the malware is technically a virus or not is
 immaterial.




 At 04:49 AM 9/14/2009, you wrote:
The infected machines/vm's were probably behind on software updates.
Linux still has that fatal flaw called the user, if the user doesn't
update when a bug is found and patched, then the system stays
vulnerable.

In all, what probably happened was a service on the servers was
vulnerable in some way, the attacker rooted the box, and then
installed nginx(which is not a virus, it's a legit web server) on a
non-standard port, and Bob's your uncle, you got a place to serve
whatever ya want.

Just my 2 cents.

On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 12:01 AM, Loren Faeth
lfa...@leadingchange.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
  Uh, Wonko, what was that about no virus on linux.  We all know it is
  invincible because it is open source...
 
  RIGHT!  WHO IS THIS REALLY? (Noah)
 
 
  At 03:23 PM 9/12/2009, you wrote:
 
  Attack of the open source zombies
  ...
  A security researcher has discovered a cluster of infected

Re: [MBZ] Parts exchange

2009-09-13 Thread Loren Faeth

Sounds like a plan.

However, my supply of new and used parts just got drastically smaller.


At 07:10 AM 9/11/2009, you wrote:
   If you want a easy to access place to list used parts, Yahoo 
Groups is pretty easy to set up - I can create a group for OkieBenz 
if needed - the only downside is people need to subscribe to a 
Group before gaining full access but the groups offer lots of 
flexibility in what can be posted.  A folder for parts available 
would be super easy - if you see something you want, just email the 
owner and make a deal.  Then the owner removes the sold part from 
the group folder and that takes care of maintenance.


   It would also be available for non-okie members to join also so 
you may end up with a larger audience for selling parts.


   Let me know if you want me to create a Yahoo Group for a parts 
sales tool.  Someone would need to monitor things to make sure it 
stays accurate and doesn't get hit with spam - I can monitor who 
joins the group is you wish -


LarryT
91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 9:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Parts exchange

You can always post what you have for sale to the list.  As for a 
message board sort or deal, that would be great as well, and can be 
added to Okiebenz.  I wonder if my couple of free labor web guys 
might know how to do that, or anybody else for that matter.

Loren Faeth wrote:
I have been cleaning house, garage, and so forth, and I am amazed 
at the pile of unused, new parts I have accumulated, along with 
used stuff to fit 110, 111,108, 107. 115, 123, 124 and 126 cars.


Fleabay is worthless
Craigslist is now spamlist, you get at least 10 spams for every 
real reply you get, and it is hard to pick out the real replies.

Nobody looks at ioffer and other would-be fleabay competitors


There is a lot of talent on the list.

Others on the list surely have the same type of stuff laying around.

And then there is Kaleb.


Here is my proposal:

We need a free place to list new and used parts for sale, open to 
anyone to buy, but only for list members (or ?) to sell
Pay by paypal.  It is simple  (yeah, I know, it is fleabay, but it 
is simple and it works)


If it gets really successful, we could also add an auction format, 
so that when getting rid of something is more important than 
price, we could list it and let the fun begin.


Anybody interested?

Anybody willing to work on the website?
I could host it, or perhaps Kaleb might want to, or someone else can.


Loren Faeth

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 
270.13.82/2351 - Release Date: 09/07/09 06:40:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 mercedes wagon - $900 (fremont, nh)

2009-09-13 Thread Loren Faeth
I will sell mine for $900 this week.  Would not have sold it for $900 
last week.  In fleabay parlance: needs some buffing



At 09:48 PM 9/11/2009, you wrote:


Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 19:32:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: fred.s...@yahoo.com
Subject: 1987 mercedes wagon - $900 (fremont, nh)
fred.s...@yahoo.com has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at 
http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1370086465.htmlhttp://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1370086465.html 
to contact the person who posted this.


--


1987 mercedes wagon



Date: 2009-09-11, 8:11PM

1987 Mercedes Benz Wagon

6cylynder Turbo Diesel 300TD

power steering Driverside airbag

all leather seats interior seats 8

262,474 mls

cooper lifeliner GLS tires 195/65/R15

aluminum alloy stock rims

Good carfax report on service

$900oo or Best Offer!!! CALL-(603) 479-3375











   * Location: fremont, nh
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other 
commercial interests


Original URL: 
http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1370086465.htmlhttp://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1370086465.html 



--
this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our
email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to:
http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/lJnZz5CZyFGdlZHQ6lmcu42b0VmbGhttp://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/lJnZz5CZyFGdlZHQ6lmcu42b0VmbG 



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Re: [MBZ] Linux webserver botnet pushes malware

2009-09-13 Thread Loren Faeth






Uh, Wonko, what was that about no virus on linux.  We all know it is 
invincible because it is open source...


RIGHT!  WHO IS THIS REALLY? (Noah)


At 03:23 PM 9/12/2009, you wrote:

Attack of the open source zombies
...
A security researcher has discovered a cluster of infected Linux 
servers that have been corralled into a special ops botnet of sorts 
and used to distribute malware to unwitting people browsing the web.
Each of the infected machines examined so far is a dedicated or 
virtual dedicated server running a legitimate website, Denis 
Sinegubko, an independent researcher based in Magnitogorsk, Russia, 
told The Register. But in addition to running an Apache webserver to 
dish up benign content, they've also been hacked to run a second 
webserver known as nginx, which serves malware.


What we see here is a long awaited botnet of zombie web servers! A 
group of interconnected infected web servers with [a] common control 
center involved in malware distribution, Sinegubko wrote here. To 
make things more complex, this botnet of web servers is connected 
with the botnet of infected home computer(s).
The finding highlights the continuing evolution of bot herders as 
they look for new ways to issue commands to the hundreds of 
thousands of infected zombies under their control. It came the same 
day anti-virus provider Symantec reported Google Groups was being 
used as a master control channel for a recently discovered trojan. 
Four weeks ago, a researcher from Arbor Networks made a similar 
discovery when he found several Twitter profiles being used to run 
a botnet.snip

http://www.theregister.co.uk/2009/09/12/linux_zombies_push_malware/

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Re: [MBZ] Macs looking for a home Was: first impressions on snow leopard

2009-09-10 Thread Loren Faeth

Yup!

I grabbed a aforementioned Portrait monitor at the univ junk sale, 
(it was already OLD then) then donated it to the lady (maybe 12 years 
ago) who edited my thesis and dissertation.  She could do stuff on 
the small monitor, like email and daily grind stuff, while she had a 
word file up on the portrait editing two full size pages at a 
time.  It increased her productivity so much she didn't charge for my 
dissertation.  She cried when she was no longer able to use  that 
monitor!   It is only recently  with big widescreen flat monitors 
that two pages at a time on one monitor became realistic again.


At 12:03 PM 9/10/2009, you wrote:

On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 9:24 PM, Redghost redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 First no monitor mac was the plain Mac II.  Huge box with six NUBUS slots.

Six slots, any or all of which could be filled with a video card, with
OS support to use them to display a single contiguous workspace
regardless of the size or resolution of the monitors attached.  I
remember in 1987 being blown away by a floor display at an Apple
dealer of a Mac II with four or five monitors gratuitously attached
simultaneously---some large, some small, some color, some B/W (the
late, lamented 2-bit grayscale Apple Portrait Display, I believe).

This was 15 years or so before Windows machines could reliably offer
this feature, and I don't think anyone really grokked its significance
at the time except Photoshop users, who soon cottoned to the idea of
putting your document window on one big monitor and your toolbars,
palettes, etc. on a second, smaller one.  Some people are only just
now getting it---you still see articles and blog entries in the
corporate IT press with titles like Use Two Monitors For Greater
Productivity!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Parts exchange

2009-09-08 Thread Loren Faeth
Seems to me that Kaleb would be the largest poster, and thereby it 
should benefit him.  I keep finding new parts I didn't remember I had.


My thought is that the people approved for posting should be able to 
fill in a form online with price, description and contact info.  Then 
the software should convert that to a posting with disguised or 
hidden email address as in craigslist, or fleabay.


Maybe a monthly reminder to posters that they should review their 
listings and delete what is sold.  Or it could be coercive: if you 
don't review, you posting is automatically deleted after 10 days.


Automation is the key.

There would have to be rules for use

Maybe one for no commercial postings, except for the list-dad

Maybe an embargo on new subscribers to the list from advertising for 
X months, to prevent people (spammers) from signing up just to advertise stuff.


It would require some volunteer time to approve listings and such, 
unless someone figures out a way to make money form it.  I am not 
inclined to used dickarde's rapacious rates to hurst and Rusty to 
fund the project.


At 08:44 AM 9/8/2009, you wrote:
Sounds like a win, win to me if Kaleb goes along.  I would not be 
for it if his business suffers, after all, he provides this 
list.  Figure a way to help fund the list with money from each 
sell.  Hmmm, sounds like another tax.


Harry


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Macs of all flavors

2009-09-08 Thread Loren Faeth



I used not only zip drives but also the syquest EZ135 competing 
technology.  Never any problems.  Zip was really weird on Wintel 
because it was ISA or PCI, but showed up as a scsi device.  On Macs, 
it was just another SCSI device.  I still have a bunch of that stuff 
too, but there is no market, so I will keep it so long as I have old 
Macs with SCSI.


At 01:09 PM 9/8/2009, you wrote:

On Tue, 08 Sep 2009 14:03 -0400, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 i think the days of zip drive are pretty much done

Did anyone ever really *use* them?  I remember a year or two where most
PCs had a Zip drive but I can never recall anyone I know ever using
them.  I do recall many of them being plagued with problems, eating
disks or refusing to eject them, etc.

Allan
--
1983 300D

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[MBZ] Macs looking for a home Was: first impressions on snow leopard

2009-09-08 Thread Loren Faeth

Ok, I have updated listing:
Mac II Si,  LCIII,  7200, G3 Beige, and G3 Blue/white Macs, along 
with a Wall street laptop with OS 10.  Still have the 17 Mac monitor 
with built in speakers also.


All are available for free if you pay the shipping (or pick it 
up).  Just send me your mailing address off-list, with a specific request.
Looks like there might be a couple of takers for the Wall Street, but 
nobody has sent me an address yet.


I think the II Si was the first mac without a builtin monitor

At 11:51 PM 9/7/2009, you wrote:

Alex,

I have a 68030 II SE I am getting rid of.  Would that work for 
you?  I have a 17 Mac monitor with the built in speakers too, if 
you want it.  I think it came with one of the first Mac types with 
the video I/O card from the factory.  Very fancy (expensive) monitor 
in its day!


Also have a 7200, G3 Beige and Blue/white Macs, along with a Wall 
street laptop with OS 10 on it, looking for homes if anyone is 
interested.  Pay the freight, and they are yours!  Oh, and I have 
one other, can't remember the model, but it is also an 030, the 
small one.  I used it for a headless print server for quite a while.


(cleaned the garage today)

My favorite old app is print shop for the Apple II.  You could do 
stuff with it that later Winders and Mac versions could not 
do.  Love those dot matrix graphics.  Now it is a retro look.  A 
step up (or down) from Asci II graphics.


At 02:39 AM 9/7/2009, you wrote:

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 8:20 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote:
 We just got another 9-year-old Pismo for my son
 to play Riven on.  Works fine, then and now.


Aha, Jim, now you've hit on the _real_ reason to buy trailing-edge
hardware... it's not about saving money so much as it's about being
able to run old games.

Sometimes I wish I'd kept my Mac Plus around just to play Dark Castle.
 (Yes, I know I could do it though emulation, but it's just not the
same.)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: Today's Gasoline Prices]

2009-09-08 Thread Loren Faeth
  2.708  2.614


Los Angeles
 RFG 
Areas   3.061  3.046  3.132  3.252  3.248   3.235  3.235  3.319


Miami
 Conventional 
Areas  2.851  2.872  2.889  2.951  2.958   2.955  2.948  2.898


New York City
 RFG 
Areas   2.841  2.823  2.855  2.927  2.939   2.937  2.945  2.939


San Francisco
 RFG 
Areas   3.089  3.082  3.156  3.285  3.288   3.281  3.300  3.345


Seattle
 Conventional 
Areas  2.903  2.900  2.932  3.050  3.061   3.061  3.111  3.157



Source:  Form EIA-878 Motor Gasoline Price Survey


For additional information please contact the Energy Information
Administration's National Energy Information Center at (202) 586-8800 or
 visit the Mogas web site at http://www.eia.doe.gov/oil_gas/fwd/wrgp.html



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Re: [MBZ] Macs looking for a home Was: first impressions on snow leopard

2009-09-08 Thread Loren Faeth

Yeah, I forgot about those, because they were $$O expensive.

I guess the IISi seemed like the first separate monitor mac to me 
because it was the first semi-affordable one.  At that time I was 
still running on my IIGS


At 11:24 PM 9/8/2009, you wrote:

First no monitor mac was the plain Mac II.  Huge box with six NUBUS
slots.  Loved that thing.  The IIfx was the Bomb though.  Used funky
RAM, 64 pin, and I had mine decked out with all slots full of 16meg
sticks.  Radius cards and extra SCSI.

clay


On Sep 8, 2009, at 2:13 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:


Ok, I have updated listing:
Mac II Si,  LCIII,  7200, G3 Beige, and G3 Blue/white Macs, along
with a Wall street laptop with OS 10.  Still have the 17 Mac
monitor with built in speakers also.

All are available for free if you pay the shipping (or pick it up).
Just send me your mailing address off-list, with a specific request.
Looks like there might be a couple of takers for the Wall Street,
but nobody has sent me an address yet.

I think the II Si was the first mac without a builtin monitor

At 11:51 PM 9/7/2009, you wrote:

Alex,

I have a 68030 II SE I am getting rid of.  Would that work for
you?  I have a 17 Mac monitor with the built in speakers too, if
you want it.  I think it came with one of the first Mac types with
the video I/O card from the factory.  Very fancy (expensive)
monitor in its day!

Also have a 7200, G3 Beige and Blue/white Macs, along with a Wall
street laptop with OS 10 on it, looking for homes if anyone is
interested.  Pay the freight, and they are yours!  Oh, and I have
one other, can't remember the model, but it is also an 030, the
small one.  I used it for a headless print server for quite a while.

(cleaned the garage today)

My favorite old app is print shop for the Apple II.  You could do
stuff with it that later Winders and Mac versions could not do.
Love those dot matrix graphics.  Now it is a retro look.  A step
up (or down) from Asci II graphics.

At 02:39 AM 9/7/2009, you wrote:

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 8:20 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net
wrote:
 We just got another 9-year-old Pismo for my son
 to play Riven on.  Works fine, then and now.


Aha, Jim, now you've hit on the _real_ reason to buy trailing-edge
hardware... it's not about saving money so much as it's about being
able to run old games.

Sometimes I wish I'd kept my Mac Plus around just to play Dark
Castle.
(Yes, I know I could do it though emulation, but it's just not the
same.)

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] first impressions on snow leopard

2009-09-07 Thread Loren Faeth

Alex,

I have a 68030 II SE I am getting rid of.  Would that work for 
you?  I have a 17 Mac monitor with the built in speakers too, if you 
want it.  I think it came with one of the first Mac types with the 
video I/O card from the factory.  Very fancy (expensive) monitor in its day!


Also have a 7200, G3 Beige and Blue/white Macs, along with a Wall 
street laptop with OS 10 on it, looking for homes if anyone is 
interested.  Pay the freight, and they are yours!  Oh, and I have one 
other, can't remember the model, but it is also an 030, the small 
one.  I used it for a headless print server for quite a while.


(cleaned the garage today)

My favorite old app is print shop for the Apple II.  You could do 
stuff with it that later Winders and Mac versions could not do.  Love 
those dot matrix graphics.  Now it is a retro look.  A step up (or 
down) from Asci II graphics.


At 02:39 AM 9/7/2009, you wrote:

On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 8:20 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote:
 We just got another 9-year-old Pismo for my son
 to play Riven on.  Works fine, then and now.


Aha, Jim, now you've hit on the _real_ reason to buy trailing-edge
hardware... it's not about saving money so much as it's about being
able to run old games.

Sometimes I wish I'd kept my Mac Plus around just to play Dark Castle.
 (Yes, I know I could do it though emulation, but it's just not the
same.)

Alex

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[MBZ] Parts exchange

2009-09-07 Thread Loren Faeth
I have been cleaning house, garage, and so forth, and I am amazed at 
the pile of unused, new parts I have accumulated, along with used 
stuff to fit 110, 111,108, 107. 115, 123, 124 and 126 cars.


Fleabay is worthless
Craigslist is now spamlist, you get at least 10 spams for every real 
reply you get, and it is hard to pick out the real replies.

Nobody looks at ioffer and other would-be fleabay competitors


There is a lot of talent on the list.

Others on the list surely have the same type of stuff laying around.

And then there is Kaleb.


Here is my proposal:

We need a free place to list new and used parts for sale, open to 
anyone to buy, but only for list members (or ?) to sell
Pay by paypal.  It is simple  (yeah, I know, it is fleabay, but it is 
simple and it works)


If it gets really successful, we could also add an auction format, so 
that when getting rid of something is more important than price, we 
could list it and let the fun begin.


Anybody interested?

Anybody willing to work on the website?
I could host it, or perhaps Kaleb might want to, or someone else can.


Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Traffic Pro

2009-09-06 Thread Loren Faeth

I am sure Ed Ebel or someone there will be helpful.

They probably gave up on helping Roger!

At 01:21 AM 9/6/2009, you wrote:

The GPS antenna comes with it...


This was a take-out from some other MB.  Nothing
but the bare head unit.  No instructions, no connectors,
no antennae, etc.

I'm surprised that Becker NA wouldn't be helpful.  I haven't
tried contacting them yet, I just got the thing.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 210 821 00 47 relay

2009-09-05 Thread Loren Faeth

nope  you want it?

At 11:19 AM 9/5/2009, you wrote:

On Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:41:30 -0500 Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com
wrote:

 I have a non-working multi-function relay, 210 821 00 47, available
 to anyone who wants to try diagnosis and repair , or has a use for
 the remainder of the circuitry.  In the 124, it is the turn signal
 relay.  This one does not run the turn signals, but the other 2
 relays may be functional.  If you want it, send me your address
 off-list.

Loren,

Has there been any interest in this?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

2009-09-04 Thread Loren Faeth
lift pump is an old British name for a fuel pump. (Gasser or 
Diesel)  It is used by many folks around diesels (and Mechanically 
injected engines) to describe the transfer pump or low pressure 
pump that moves fuel from the tank to the filter and thence to the IP.


In the Bosch nomenclature  It is known as a transfer pump  Since 
they made the parts, I tend to use the term Transfer pump.


At 10:58 AM 9/4/2009, you wrote:
right, got it. (i should know better than try to type while the 
coffee's still brewing!)
   may be i just got distracted by the concept of referring to a 
pump that sits *above* the tank and at the furthermost downstream 
portion of the fuel line as a lift pump,... just seems odd.



cheers!
e


OK Don wrote:

That's what Max said - disconnect the return line and use it to pump out the
fuel.

   seems like if one were to want to use the vehicles own pump to empty the


tank, the only possibility would be to use the return line.

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:



Because there is a supply line and a return line; the lift pump applies
suction on supply line and provides pressurized fuel (about 10 to 15
psi) to the filter then to the IP, and whatever fuel is not used by the
IP is returned to the fuel tank via the return line.

Max

--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos




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Re: [MBZ] Banjo bolt - Fuel filter

2009-09-04 Thread Loren Faeth
If you order a filter from Rusty, they generally come with the 
orings.  Pull the bolt, replace the orings on the bolt.


At 09:48 AM 9/4/2009, you wrote:

Wasn't there a discussion a while back about whether or not the spin
on fuel filter had an o-ring or not.  Has anyone ever ordered one with
the o-ring?  I have a leak somewhere in my 300D and it started the
last time i changed filters.  Mine does not currently have the o-ring.

Mike

83 300D fuel filter leak repair tip
If you are having trouble stopping the fuel leak at the bolt on top of
the fuel filter(the big one that holds the filter on), I have a
solution. You can buy a new filter housing and a new bolt from
Mercedes. This new bolt has an o-ring at the top that seats in the
bore of the new housing. Works great. It should have been designed
this way to begin with! -- next part --
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[MBZ] 210 821 00 47 relay

2009-09-04 Thread Loren Faeth
I have a non-working multi-function relay, 210 821 00 47, available 
to anyone who wants to try diagnosis and repair , or has a use for 
the remainder of the circuitry.  In the 124, it is the turn signal 
relay.  This one does not run the turn signals, but the other 2 
relays may be functional.  If you want it, send me your address off-list.




Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Banjo bolt - Fuel filter

2009-09-04 Thread Loren Faeth
He was, and I was.  Thespin-on filter comes with orings for the 
hollow bolt. (Provided that you buy German filters, such as Rusty sells.)



At 08:05 PM 9/4/2009, you wrote:

Loren wrote:
 If you order a filter from Rusty, they generally come with the 
orings.  Pull

 the bolt, replace the orings on the bolt.

I think he is talking about the spin on fuel filter.
mao



Loren Faeth 



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