from:"MG"

I totally agree with you. Just saying what they say on the site. 
Though they do say that the results will as you indicate be 
suboptimal.


Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Understood.  However, I was not aware that it was intended to be used as a “top 
off” for an R12 system. I interpret that statement as saying that any remnants 
of R12 or R134a won’t react or affect the alternative refrigerant.

Here's the thing...when you mix two (or more) refrigerants you concoct a new, 
3rd blend. The proportions of this blend will vary according to how much of 
each parent refrigerant you put in. You may do a top off one time where you 
have 75% of refrigerant A and 25% refrigerant B, next time it may have 49% of A 
and 51% of B. The resulting blends will have different thermodynamic properties.

Bottom line - it's a crap shoot every time. You have no way of knowing if your 
new blend will cool, how it will affect capacity, what kind of oil micsibility 
it will have, etc., etc.

And you now have a substance inside the system that should be incinerated when 
it comes time to recover it.

Any way you cut it, it's bad refrigerant practice. Sorry if I sound harsh, but 
mixing refrigerants is the work of hacks. And frankly, you're cheating yourself 
and the environment when you don't recover and convert through proper procedure.

-D



On May 25, 2017, at 7:58 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

They say on their site that it will mix with either R-12 or 134.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

You can mix R12 and “alternative” refrigerants?
News to me - I thought the alternative stuff was just OK to use as a complete 
replacement?  I wasn’t aware you could mix it with Freon.
-D



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Re: [MBZ] I guess I lost the right to make fun of Okies...

That was it. Never occurred to me that anyone would shoot an 
animal to eat that acted wrong. Guess I figured that most who 
hunt know stuff like that and if you were OK with walking in the 
woods then the critters on the squirrel or dear for that matter 
wouldn't be a problem.


Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Thu, 25 May 2017 16:58:25 -0400 MG via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Are you going to be walking through the woods to hunt the squirrels?


Seeing there are no woods around here, probably not.

But then, there aren't any squirrels around here, either.

Just gathering information for the future.

I presume you are going say there are dangers from ticks and such just
walking through the woods.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 87 td AC woes


They say on their site that it will mix with either R-12 or 134.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

You can mix R12 and “alternative” refrigerants?

News to me - I thought the alternative stuff was just OK to use as a complete 
replacement?  I wasn’t aware you could mix it with Freon.

-D


On May 25, 2017, at 4:50 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

That's when you get some of the evercool12 industrial and put that in. Works 
like a charm and mixes with the R-12 just fine. You just have to have the right 
gauge set to or hose to attach the can to your gauge set and away you go. One 
small 12 oz can replaces a full can of R-12 which IIR is 1 lb.

Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Thu, 25 May 2017 10:22:22 -0400 archer75--- via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

If the AC won't run, push the stem down in the low pressure port to see
if the system still has freon in it. If freon squirts out fairly
strongly, buy a can of freon at FLAPS OR Wallmart which has a little
gauge and and a short hose on top. Start the car and let it idle, turn
the AC fan on full blast and set the temp to maximum cool. Then follow
the instructions on the freon can.

But the W126 is most likely R-12 and the cans you buy now most likely are
R-134.
R-134 won't work in a system that already has R-12 in it.
Craig
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Re: [MBZ] I guess I lost the right to make fun of Okies...


Are you going to be walking through the woods to hunt the squirrels?

Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Thu, 25 May 2017 11:53:45 -0700 Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes
 wrote:


I have dressed and cooked some squirrels. Burning off the fur is a
novel way to prepare them for sure. They are easy to skin. The tails
are good material for fishing lures. Hunting squirrels with a .22 is
good practice for the deer season, and can double with scouting
activity for deer.


A couple dumb questions:

- How do you determine if the squirrel is healthy and fit to eat?

- Do they have fleas or other parasites which might carry diseases?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 87 td AC woes

That's when you get some of the evercool12 industrial and put 
that in. Works like a charm and mixes with the R-12 just fine. 
You just have to have the right gauge set to or hose to attach 
the can to your gauge set and away you go. One small 12 oz can 
replaces a full can of R-12 which IIR is 1 lb.


Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Thu, 25 May 2017 10:22:22 -0400 archer75--- via Mercedes
 wrote:


If the AC won't run, push the stem down in the low pressure port to see
if the system still has freon in it. If freon squirts out fairly
strongly, buy a can of freon at FLAPS OR Wallmart which has a little
gauge and and a short hose on top. Start the car and let it idle, turn
the AC fan on full blast and set the temp to maximum cool. Then follow
the instructions on the freon can.


But the W126 is most likely R-12 and the cans you buy now most likely are
R-134.

R-134 won't work in a system that already has R-12 in it.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 87 td AC woes

2017-05-24 Thread MG via Mercedes

Only one thing that Gerry left out.

Did you connect a vacuum pump after you put the NEW receiver
drier in and a new expansion valve. Each time the compressor
quits all the cleaning has to be done and a solid vacuum pulled.
Living in Florida I run the pump for at least an hour just
because I have the time and it helps boil any moisture out of the
system. Then close the gauges off and see if the vacuum stays the
same after an additional hour. If so then you put the freon in.

If you didn't do the vacuum then there is air and moisture in
there and the new receiver drier is probably dead with moisture
right from the beginning.

archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:

Karl Wittnebel wrote:

Pressure goes super high, then the compressor fails. It will cool for about
30-40 minutes per compressor. Has new evaporator, new expansion valve new
drier, now on compressor #3 (or about to be). Control unit is new. At least
one new pressure hose. All the vac pods are new, as is the dash. Works
great for awhile, then gradually gets warmer over an hour or so, and that's
it.
Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this further? Tired of throwing
compressors at it. Nippodenso units from rock auto, same as original. Of
course the motor is a 606 now.
Thanks

~
Has the AC auxiliary fan been coming on?

Did you disconnect all the lines and wash, then blow, them out using AC solvent
from NAPA or elsewhere in the opposite direction from their direction of flow?

Did you replace the main freon filter/reservoir?

Do you have a set of AC gauges (about $60 at HF)?. If so, what were the
readings when the AC was not working properly? (Carefully learn how the gauges
work so you don't accidentally send high pressure into low pressure cans of
freon and/or the low pressure gauges, which could be very injurious or fatal).

Which lubricant did you use when you replaced compressors, etc? Did you add the specified amount?

Did you add the freon with the can upright or inverted?

If you added the freon using the typical low pressure gauge that comes with some cans of freon, what was the pressure reading when you finished?

Did you have a household or shop fan blowing through the radiator and condenser
when you added the freon? Did you have the AC set on max cool and max fan speed?

What has the temperature been where you live?

There is supposed to an (add-on?) filter that can be installed in the return
line just before the compressor, but I've never heard any discussion about it
on this list, or have seen it listed anywhere. Also, I have no idea where it
would be installed without cutting the return line. This is supposed to keep
the shedded debris from old freon lines from getting in to the AC pump and
other parts.

Which car is this? All my experience has been with an '83 300D and '83 240D.

Most FLAPS have a book on auto AC repair which should give you the correct
amounts of freon and oil to add. The different types of oils should not be mixed
(see the book for a discussion of that.)

It's 2 am here in Florida. Later this AM someone with more knowledge than I
should be able to help you.
Good luck,
Gerry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

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Re: [MBZ] Where are the lights?

2017-05-15 Thread MG via Mercedes

Then you have overlooked something somewhere. Check the ground 
from the plug to the body ground and make sure you have power in 
the plug. Or bring it down here and I'll take a look at it. ;-)


clay via Mercedes wrote:
I have done the bypass and nothing.  




On May 14, 2017, at 7:19 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Bypass the rheostat. Even the full power dash lights are not bright enough to 
really see the instruments in the dark. Then if the light at the ends of the 
fiber optics don't work you may need to change the bulb where they all come 
together.

clay via Mercedes wrote:

I am having trouble getting the bulbs to behave in the cluster on Allen.
The things have never responded to the rheostat when I turned the headlights 
on.  The rest of the stuff is also not really making photons.  The fiber optic 
stuff does not seem to make light on the cluster, but the radio and ashtray 
light up.
I pulled the cluster a few days ago and gave it a test.  The rheostat is not 
working, as the spring unrolled and did not make decent contact anyway.  I used 
the multimeter to chase things.  Used 12v to see where electrons flowed.  They 
seemed to flow enough between ground and spots on the rheostat.  They flow 
across the ground strap on the cluster.  They flow well enough to put power to 
the ground and apply to the the spot on the board at the bulbs both light up.  
But, I can not figure out where the electrons are falling off.
Anybody ever have this happen? 


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Re: [MBZ] Where are the lights?

2017-05-14 Thread MG via Mercedes

Bypass the rheostat. Even the full power dash lights are not 
bright enough to really see the instruments in the dark. Then if 
the light at the ends of the fiber optics don't work you may need 
to change the bulb where they all come together.


clay via Mercedes wrote:

I am having trouble getting the bulbs to behave in the cluster on Allen.

The things have never responded to the rheostat when I turned the headlights 
on.  The rest of the stuff is also not really making photons.  The fiber optic 
stuff does not seem to make light on the cluster, but the radio and ashtray 
light up.

I pulled the cluster a few days ago and gave it a test.  The rheostat is not 
working, as the spring unrolled and did not make decent contact anyway.  I used 
the multimeter to chase things.  Used 12v to see where electrons flowed.  They 
seemed to flow enough between ground and spots on the rheostat.  They flow 
across the ground strap on the cluster.  They flow well enough to put power to 
the ground and apply to the the spot on the board at the bulbs both light up.  
But, I can not figure out where the electrons are falling off.

Anybody ever have this happen?

 



clay 


2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] IT HAS BECOME A COLLECTABLE CAR THIS YEAR AND THEREFORE SHOULD BEGIN APPRECIATING IN VALUE WITH TIME.

2017-05-10 Thread MG via Mercedes

Never mind Dan, I found it. It only applies to cars from 75 and
earlier and then it only allows them to be used in shows, parades
and exhibitions.

Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

I don't recall what the threshold is, but in Florida you can do "year of issue"
plates on cars older than a certain number of years. It's a one time flat fee, which is
nice, since if you're planning on keeping the car for any amount of time you can save a
chunk of change.

Try researching the classic/collector/antique registrations in different
states. It's a crazy patchwork quilt of laws, none of which are consistent
between states.

-D

On May 10, 2017, at 12:24 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:

I forget what a historic vehicle plate costs in MI, but it's not out of the "let's go to the bar and grab a big pizza and some beer" range. Less than a regular annual plate for any of my cars. It's good for driving to historic vehicle events and the occasional joyride. If a cop sees you driving it to work repeatedly at 8am, he will pull you over.

The regular classic plate is good for ten years, but if you have an old annual plate from the year the car was made (like a 1972 plate for your 1972 W109), you only have to pay one registration fee for as long as you own the car.
$100 a year is mind-boggling to me for a car that can't be used for daily transportation.

Mitch.

On May 10, 2017 at 12:13 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes
wrote:

WOW! what a ripoff!

I grouse about the 240D going from $16/yr to $50/yr for regular plates.

Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
May 10, 2017 at 10:00 AM
Around here you can only drive classic plate cars to Special Events, or to
the shop for repairs. Registration is $100/yr. and there is no inspection.

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Re: [MBZ] IT HAS BECOME A COLLECTABLE CAR THIS YEAR AND THEREFORE SHOULD BEGIN APPRECIATING IN VALUE WITH TIME.

2017-05-10 Thread MG via Mercedes

Dan where did you find this info? I did a quick look on the DMV
site and couldn't find anything on it.

Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

Try researching the classic/collector/antique registrations in different
states. It's a crazy patchwork quilt of laws, none of which are consistent
between states.

-D

On May 10, 2017, at 12:24 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:

Mitch.

On May 10, 2017 at 12:13 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes
wrote:

WOW! what a ripoff!

I grouse about the 240D going from $16/yr to $50/yr for regular plates.

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Re: [MBZ] IT HAS BECOME A COLLECTABLE CAR THIS YEAR AND THEREFORE SHOULD BEGIN APPRECIATING IN VALUE WITH TIME.

2017-05-10 Thread MG via Mercedes

I asked about that the last time I renewed in April and was told 
that when the cars get to 30 years they automatically get charged 
the antique rate even though you still get the regular plates. If 
you want the blue plates then you have to pay extra for them 
unless it's time to get new plates anyway.


Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

They're probably talking about it being eligible for classic or antique 
registration/plates.

In Florida that adds absolutely no value, as there's no difference between an 
"antique" registration and a regular one. I think it's a couple bucks cheaper a 
year, that's it.

-D


On May 10, 2017, at 10:16 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
 wrote:


  mercedes diesel --RARE 350SD-- - $1(rock hill,sc)

https://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/6092197658.html

--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”

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Re: [MBZ] Manfred...love what you've done with the house...

2017-05-07 Thread MG via Mercedes

Very cool but a little small for me. My granddaughter would love 
it though.


Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=817441=1=1493990054

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Re: [MBZ] Parts Car for Kyle!!

2017-04-30 Thread MG via Mercedes

Well I do see what looks to be some rust on the right front 
fender in the first picture.


Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

Wow!  from 20' that looks at least as good as one of Andrew's heaps!


Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
April 30, 2017 at 11:15 AM
https://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/6111006051.html

-D


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[MBZ] Another laptop

2017-04-26 Thread MG via Mercedes


Hi Fred,

I find that I need another laptop like the one that you sent me.
Do you have any more of those?

Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] OT Land Shark - low country style

2017-04-19 Thread MG via Mercedes

I beg to differ. In the first place just because something is 
"medicinal" that does not automatically make it harmless. This is 
proven over and over on a daily basis in hospitals.


In the second place, while bismuth is less poisonous than other 
heavy metals, people who are exposed to it daily such as plumbers 
for instance are cautioned to be on the watch for symptoms of 
over exposure. In the case of the aforesaid plumbers it would be 
 from the inhalation of soldering fumes. It can kill you.


Just saying.

Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

And bismuth is not only harmless, it's medicinal, as in "Pepto Bismol" has
bismuth.

On Tue, Apr 18, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com> wrote:


Not for turkey, that's for waterfowl and not for anything without
removable choke tubes, the steel is mighty hard on the barrel.
If I were going for waterfowl I'd use bismuth shot, heavier and softer
than steel.


Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
<https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android>

On Tue, Apr 18, 2017 at 6:50 PM, Andrew Strasfogel
<astrasfo...@gmail.com> wrote:
DO you use steel shot?

On Tue, Apr 18, 2017 at 7:12 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I'll be turkey hunting next week. Got to spend some time with my muzzle
loading shotgun last Tuesday. Bit of a humbling experience, I'd thought it
was an 18 gauge which is unusual but not unheard of. The muzzle measures
.635" which is bigger than 20ga but smaller than 16.I had bought some 18ga
wads but they won't hold tight in the barrel so the pellets were falling
back out... I used some wadded up newspaper which worked pretty well. I've
ordered some 16ga ones that I'll try next week. On paper it patterns well
enough with the newspaper that I ought to be able to take out a turkey out
to 20 yards or so. Hopefully with better wads I'll be able to go farther
out.
-Curt

  From: Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Floyd Thursby <buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2017 3:47 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Land Shark - low country style

Speaking of which I was cycling over on Seabrook last week and a 5
footer ambled across the road in front of me, going from one pond to
another.

On a related note regarding eating the local wildlife, there have been
lots of turkeys around, I let a coupla boys who work for the power
company hunt a coupla weeks ago on the vast estate and they each got one
at different times.  Husband of a friend got one too on some of the
family property up the road, I was visiting their new baby and he was
cooking it up, frying breast chunks, it was quite tasty.

--FT


On 4/18/17 3:28 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:

Being me, I would have asked for the tail at least. Good eating there
for a while when added to gumbo.

Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

http://www.postandcourier.com/ news/alligator-climbs-to-a-

second-story-mount-pleasant- porch-through/article_
62f3764c-238a-11e7-9bb4- eb7197b7df98.html
<http://www.postandcourier.com/news/alligator-climbs-to-a-second-story-mount-pleasant-porch-through/article_62f3764c-238a-11e7-9bb4-eb7197b7df98.html>

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--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small,
large or petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of
the enemy.”


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Re: [MBZ] OT Land Shark - low country style

2017-04-18 Thread MG via Mercedes

Being me, I would have asked for the tail at least. Good eating 
there for a while when added to gumbo.


Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

http://www.postandcourier.com/news/alligator-climbs-to-a-second-story-mount-pleasant-porch-through/article_62f3764c-238a-11e7-9bb4-eb7197b7df98.html


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Re: [MBZ] 124 Oil Gauge Question

2017-04-14 Thread MG via Mercedes

Have you tried replacing the sender yet? Sounds like that may 
have been your problem to begin with.


M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes wrote:

Swapped the instrument cluster from a '90 300E for the one in my '86 300E.
Works fine except for the oil pressure gauge, which pins at 3 as soon as
the ignition comes on.  Is this a bad gauge or is there a different sender
for the later models?  The old gauge worked fine, except it would peg at
2.5 no matter the revs.

Thanks!

-MMM-
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Re: [MBZ] Strong bidding for an '87 turbo wagon

2017-04-13 Thread MG via Mercedes

I would be worrying if the bottom was getting shiny. Means you 
have a leak or your driving through too much tall grass and 
polishing the underside.


Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

I do like a super clean wagon and I know someone would love that car, but
that someone is not me.  Just dont care for that body style forward.

I am loving the wagon, Andrew.  Running like a top and everything is
getting shiny!

Kyle





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 09:27:07 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Strong bidding for an '87 turbo wagon
Must be the meticulous records...

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-mercedes-benz-300td/






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Re: [MBZ] OT PS on my truck

2017-04-13 Thread MG via Mercedes

Maybe more important is the pulley turning the shaft of the pump 
and can you see the fluid moving around in the pump through the 
filler hole. If you don't see any movement of the fluid then the 
pump itself may be bad.


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, the serpentine belt turns it

--R


On 4/13/17 1:24 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Thu, 13 Apr 2017 12:39:54 -0400 Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
 wrote:


Yesterday I was driving my 96 chebby p/u to take new wheels to that car
I am looking at, I stopped for a quick errand in a shopping center, was
backing out of the parking space, steering got hard, heard the limit
whatever open up and hiss, then no PS any more.  Fluid was at right
level so I am wondering if the pump crapped out or the booster thingie
(I have not actually looked at it yet so not sure what is under there)
on the steering gear went out.  Any thoughts on this?

I'll give you $500 for it.  :-)


Craig

P.S. Is the pump pulley turning when the engine is running?

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Re: [MBZ] Tire Sizes

2017-04-13 Thread MG via Mercedes

I had 205 75s on one of my 123s and it did OK. Like Randy says 
the speedo will be off a bit so keep that in mind.


rogerhga--- via Mercedes wrote:
A question for the tire specialists on the list if you would please. I have a 1980 300SD which originally was designed for 185 70 14 tires. I've always run 195 70 14 tires for the past 20+ years. I have the opportunity to get a set of new Hankook 205 75 14 tires for free or cheap. Would this size be ok? I know some people use 205 70 14. The brand is not an issue as I don't drive much. My current Michelin tires are dry rotting from age and need replaced even for short driving. 
Thanks for any suggestions and advice. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com 



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Re: [MBZ] Fun Morning

Grabbing at straws here. Try running the engine in place and see 
if the roaring starts as the engine gets hot. Thinking of an 
exhaust leak from a crack that opens as the manifold or exhaust 
system heats up. Had one like that on a Jeep one time.


MG via Mercedes wrote:
OK. My other thought is a possible wheel bearing grumbling only when it 
gets hot? You might be able to feel a roughness while turning by hand.


archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:
I just checked, and I can find no evidence of a clutch on that fan. 
It's not like the clutch on the 300D. I've never been able to move the 
blades whether the engine was hot or cold. A German prof at UF picked 
it up in Germany. I wonder if he could have specified a fan without a 
clutch? IIRC the blades on the 300Ds clutch are rigid, solid; but the 
blades on this 240D are flexible and silver in color.
I was lucky to find the hole in the vacuum line. Just happened to run 
my finger underneath the line. It felt rough so I pulled off one end 
and found the very small hole. Gerry

~~~
MG wrote:
The next time that roaring happens pull over and check the fan 
clutch. Possibly something causing that to lock up.


Good catch on that little hole. Those are hard to find.

archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:
This must have been a good morning for fixing diesels. I had a good 
morning too.
'83 240D has been making a loud "roaring" noise that only begins 
after driving at highway speed for a number of miles. Jacked up the 
car, checked the rubber bits in the driveline, the exhaust system, 
and other likely suspects; but found nothing wrong.


Tackled the vacuum leak in the '83 300D. Isolated each circuit and 
tested it with hand vacuum pump. Finally found that a short rubber 
tube connecting the switch assembly to the shutdown diaphram on back 
of the pump had rubbed through in one spot. Replace the short piece 
of tubing and all was back to normal.


Tightened the steering gear about one eighth of a turn which 
produced about 2" of play in the steering wheel. Test drove it and 
it didn't seem too tight. Hope it's not.


Car which name shall not be spoken is due for OC, filter, and tire 
rotation; which is next job. This is great weather for working on 
cars today.

Gerry
~~
Curley McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Waytago!


MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
April 8, 2017 at 2:05 PM
I had a good time this morning. I took the SLS pump off my TD, 
rebuilt it and put it back on. I had been noticing that the oil in 
the tank had been going down and the motor wasn't using as much 
oil as normal. My conclusion was the seal in the SLS pump. Yep 
thats what it was. I had the parts that I picked up from the MB 
parts man on Fri so it was a quick and easy job. Everything works 
as it should and there should be no leaking into the engine any 
more. I'm happy.


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Re: [MBZ] Fun Morning

OK. My other thought is a possible wheel bearing grumbling only
when it gets hot? You might be able to feel a roughness while
turning by hand.

archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:

I just checked, and I can find no evidence of a clutch on that fan. It's not
like the clutch on the 300D. I've never been able to move the blades whether
the engine was hot or cold. A German prof at UF picked it up in Germany. I
wonder if he could have specified a fan without a clutch? IIRC the blades on
the 300Ds clutch are rigid, solid; but the blades on this 240D are flexible and
silver in color.
I was lucky to find the hole in the vacuum line. Just happened to run my finger underneath the line. It felt rough so I pulled off one end and found the very small hole.
Gerry

~~~
MG wrote:
The next time that roaring happens pull over and check the fan
clutch. Possibly something causing that to lock up.

Good catch on that little hole. Those are hard to find.

archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:

This must have been a good morning for fixing diesels. I had a good morning too.
'83 240D has been making a loud "roaring" noise that only begins after driving
at highway speed for a number of miles. Jacked up the car, checked the rubber bits in the
driveline, the exhaust system, and other likely suspects; but found nothing wrong.

Tackled the vacuum leak in the '83 300D. Isolated each circuit and tested it
with hand vacuum pump. Finally found that a short rubber tube connecting the
switch assembly to the shutdown diaphram on back of the pump had rubbed through
in one spot. Replace the short piece of tubing and all was back to normal.

Tightened the steering gear about one eighth of a turn which produced about 2"
of play in the steering wheel. Test drove it and it didn't seem too tight. Hope it's
not.

Car which name shall not be spoken is due for OC, filter, and tire rotation;
which is next job. This is great weather for working on cars today.
Gerry
~~
Curley McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Waytago!

MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
April 8, 2017 at 2:05 PM
I had a good time this morning. I took the SLS pump off my TD, rebuilt
it and put it back on. I had been noticing that the oil in the tank
had been going down and the motor wasn't using as much oil as normal.
My conclusion was the seal in the SLS pump. Yep thats what it was. I
had the parts that I picked up from the MB parts man on Fri so it was
a quick and easy job. Everything works as it should and there should
be no leaking into the engine any more. I'm happy.

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Re: [MBZ] Fun Morning

The next time that roaring happens pull over and check the fan 
clutch. Possibly something causing that to lock up.


Good catch on that little hole. Those are hard to find.

archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:

This must have been a good morning for fixing diesels. I had a good morning too.
'83 240D has been making a loud "roaring" noise that only begins after driving 
at highway speed for a number of miles. Jacked up the car, checked the rubber bits in the 
driveline, the exhaust system, and other likely suspects; but found nothing wrong.

Tackled the vacuum leak in the '83 300D. Isolated each circuit and tested it 
with hand vacuum pump. Finally found that a short rubber tube connecting the 
switch assembly to the shutdown diaphram on back of the pump had rubbed through 
in one spot. Replace the short piece of tubing and all was back to normal.

Tightened the steering gear about one eighth of a turn which produced about 2" 
of play in the steering wheel. Test drove it and it didn't seem too tight. Hope it's 
not.

Car which name shall not be spoken is due for OC, filter, and tire rotation; 
which is next job. This is great weather for working on cars today.
Gerry
~~
Curley McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Waytago!


MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
April 8, 2017 at 2:05 PM
I had a good time this morning. I took the SLS pump off my TD, rebuilt 
it and put it back on. I had been noticing that the oil in the tank 
had been going down and the motor wasn't using as much oil as normal. 
My conclusion was the seal in the SLS pump. Yep thats what it was. I 
had the parts that I picked up from the MB parts man on Fri so it was 
a quick and easy job. Everything works as it should and there should 
be no leaking into the engine any more. I'm happy.


__

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Re: [MBZ] UPDATE on : #*&@ Car payment


And You Fixed it?!!!

Sorry. There's just something about those big radials that speaks 
to me. I live under a N-S Air Corridor in Fl and around this time 
I get to hear some of those nice sounds overhead.


WILTON via Mercedes wrote:
'Reminds me:  Exhaust pipe on my '80 240D broke at manifold entry point 
to the muffler at 42 kmi.  (That's 42 kmi on the car bought new in Oct  
'79.)

I was cruising at about 65 mph when it separated - 'sounded like an R-4360.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Curley McLain via Mercedes" 


To: "Mercedes_Discussion_List" 
Cc: "Curley McLain" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 10:33 PM
Subject: [MBZ] UPDATE on : #*&@ Car payment


Below is the post from when I installed the new exhaust system last 
fall on the 240D.  The car has only gone 300-400  miles and a good bit 
of that was after the new pipe broke in front of the resonator in 
March.  It was all Bosal.  The broken resonator pipe says it was made 
in czech republic. The KEY phrase in the original post is that the new 
pipe is .5mm thinner wall than the original pipe.  Thus the breakage.  
They saved what? 20Â¢? Something less than a dollar by cheaping out on 
the pipe!


If you need new exhaust parts, the Bosal of now is not the Bosal of old.

I put the second new resonator on today.  Looks like it is going to 
cost me $25 to send the broken one back.   This time I put a bandaid 
between the front of the resonator pipe and the back of the front pipe 
to absorb some of the vibration.  I hope that will help the new pipe 
last a few more than 300 miles.



*From:* Curley McLain <126die...@gmail.com>
*Date:* August 18, 2016 at 11:11 AM
*To:* Mercedes_Discussion_List 
*Subject:* #*&@ Car payment
For more than 20 years I  have been putting bandaids on the exhaust 
pipe of the 240D from Dallas (81).   It has so many patches fore and 
aft that the section under the passenger compartment keeps twisting 
down between the bandaids.  I have been tying it up with wire, and 
the wire keeps breaking.  The front pipe is now rusted off up to the 
bend from down to back.  So, last week when the wire broke again, I 
sighed deep, and figured maybe it was time to make a car payment.


So I ordered  a new Bosal exhaust pipe and resonator section from 
crock auto.  It came in Tuesday, and I put it on yesterday.   The 
resonator and muffler were ok, but I had to saw off the good pipe 
between the muffler and resonator to put the new pipe and resonator 
in front of the muffler. The only problem was that the old and new 
pipes were the same size, and I had no wheels to go to flaps to 
borrow the swedge tool.  But I had a 4" piece on the old pipe as one 
of the patches that went over both pipes. I salvaged it off the old 
pipe, it was crushed somewhat from the clamp, so I  had to beat on it 
to flatten the sidewall and expand it enough it would slide over both 
pipes.  In this process, I found out the MB pipe was maybe half a mm 
larger than the Bosal pipe.  I believe the old pipes from  behind the 
down pipe are original.  The Resonator has the MB star and number 
embossed.  I think the down pipe was replaced before we got it was 
replaced with a thin aftermarket pipe (that caused it to keep rusting 
away)


Now in my shed I have a good muffler off the other 240D, and the MB 
resonator off this car, if anyone needs either.


Crock auto does sell the complete kit.  On the other 240D, I put on 
the whole system, even though the muffler was ok.


Total car payment was about $160.  So this one was cheaper than the 
prior one when I put on rotors and calipers.





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[MBZ] Fun Morning

I had a good time this morning. I took the SLS pump off my TD, 
rebuilt it and put it back on. I had been noticing that the oil 
in the tank had been going down and the motor wasn't using as 
much oil as normal. My conclusion was the seal in the SLS pump. 
Yep thats what it was. I had the parts that I picked up from the 
MB parts man on Fri so it was a quick and easy job. Everything 
works as it should and there should be no leaking into the engine 
any more. I'm happy.


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Re: [MBZ] Delo 400 Changes?

If you read enough about it you will find that one of the things 
that will be done is to reduce the heavy metals in the oil. I 
read that as lower zinc and phosphorous which are wear reducers. 
That lower level is one of the reasons we should not use gas 
engine oils in our diesels, less wear protection. True they say 
other additives were put in to take the place of what was taken 
out and that those additives are better. Ford however says


 "Ford will not be recommending the use of CK-4 motor oils in 
any Ford diesel engines, new or old. Ford testing has shown some 
CK-4 type formulations have shown inadequate wear protection 
compared to CJ-4 formulations developed and licensed before 2016."


They have specified a new Ford specification  WSS-M2C171-F1 that 
if the oil meets that it will be OK. They also say that


"For a short period of time an oil showing CJ-4 in the API donut, 
Without showing CK-4, would be acceptable for service even if not 
showing WSS-M2C171-F1." and  "The customer should not use oils 
labeled CK-4/SN unless they have been approved by Ford Motor 
Company to meet WSS-M2C171-F1. This is possible with SAE 10W-40,
15W-40, 5W-40 and 0W-40 oils.  At this time SAE 10W-30 oils 
showing CK-4/SN cannot meet WSS-M2C171-F1 and should be avoided. 
So if unsure avoid CK-4 oils that also shows SN in the API donut. "


I think I will stick to that at least even if the oil does not 
also meet the older Mercedes standard for our cars, which I am 
beginning to think we will never see again.


Make of it what you will.

Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
I doubt you can rely upon the fact that the SKU did not change to 
indicate it is the same stuff.

It is the replacement stuff for whatever they were selling.
More research required to determine whether the change in labelling 
indicates a change in content or just some change to what they wish to 
tell us.


RB

On 07/04/2017 8:42 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
Just noticed the latest 2.5 gallon jug I got a Wally World is labeled 
differently.  Looks like the ratings changed and now cover API CK-4 as 
opposed to CJ-4.


Not sure if that matters.  Same SKU so it must be the same stuff.

-D


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Re: [MBZ] OT: He could've shot them boys in the leg.

2017-04-06 Thread MG via Mercedes

I like my 12Ga semi auto with a 10 round clip and an extra one 
handy in case you miss too much. With double ought that thing can 
cut down 4" trees. If you like the sound of racking then just 
pull the bolt back and let it go you'll have about the same sound 
on this one.


Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
This event has caused me to reconsider.  It used to be that the vast 
majority of home invasions was a single or a double.  In that case, 
nearly anything will do, but the sound of a 12 ga pump racking has a 
certain chilling effect on those not drugged up.  That means 4 is the 
normal max.  In the former norm, that would be 2 or more apiece.  To me, 
that was more than sufficient.   In the situation where it is becoming 
more likely that you will encounter a gaggle of druggies, smaller bores 
and more rounds seems prudent.


It the old scenario, I was comfortable with a single shot and extra 
shells between my fingers.  Not so in the new scenario.





Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
April 6, 2017 at 7:52 AM
The heart of the comment I most agree with: This is a perfect example of
why high capacity semi-auto rifles / pistols should be legal. One home
resident vs. three intruders. Next time will they show up with four or
five?

-
Max
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Cell phone flakiness

2017-04-04 Thread MG via Mercedes

Could you send me one please. We are up to $89 for three phones 
sharing 250 minutes a month with no data. Time to cut it down a bit.


Or would it work to attach the file and I print it on paper?

Manfred

Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I made the switch from Verizon to Consumer cellular.   Went from $75 to 
$25  Unlimited to 1500 min, and more data than i ever use.  Same fone.  
I only had to get a CC sim card.  CC uses ATT towers and has been 
flawless.  SWMBO's fone will be added for $10/mo.  For both of us, we go 
from about $140 to $35/mo.  That is significant savings.


If anyone wants a card for a CC discount, let me know.In spite of 
CC's association with the AA(S)RP they seem to be good.   You don't have 
to pay AA(S)RP.

Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
April 4, 2017 at 1:24 PM
Smartphone plans have come wy down.3 years ago when my employer 
pushed me off their plan I was getting a corporate discount and still 
paying $91/mo with Verizon for 2GB of data. Now I could get the same 
plan for $35...

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Release Fuel Door Actuator?

2017-04-03 Thread MG via Mercedes

Yeah, that's what I see in the manual. It's just a line drawing. 
I can send it to you if you don't have it. My best guess is to 
push the tab toward the front of the car and push the vac pod 
toward the right side of the car. Thats if the orientation in the 
picture is the same as in life. The picture is in the correct 
orientation for the earlier models as if you are looking at it 
from the back where you are working.


Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

Above. I have the later model that's barrel shaped with the red mushroom for 
the manual release.

It looks like there's a tab on the forward part that has to be pressed to 
release the actuator from the part anchored to the car.

I'll poke around on it this afternoon when I get home from work.

-D

Sent from my iPad


On Apr 3, 2017, at 9:23 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Does your vehicle ID number end above or below 354452

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I’m trying to figure out how to disconnect the vacuum actuator on the fuel door 
on the 300SEL (W126).  You can’t see in there very well, and the business end 
of everything is in the opposite direction, too.
I know there’s a tab of some sort that you can push on to release the actuator 
from the bushing that goes through the opening to the fuel door, but without 
some sort of visualization I’m not having a lot of luck.
I’ve found a few pictures and references to this on the interwebs, but none of 
them are terribly detailed or have a good picture.
-D
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Re: [MBZ] Release Fuel Door Actuator?

2017-04-03 Thread MG via Mercedes


Does your vehicle ID number end above or below 354452

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I’m trying to figure out how to disconnect the vacuum actuator on the fuel door 
on the 300SEL (W126).  You can’t see in there very well, and the business end 
of everything is in the opposite direction, too.

I know there’s a tab of some sort that you can push on to release the actuator 
from the bushing that goes through the opening to the fuel door, but without 
some sort of visualization I’m not having a lot of luck.

I’ve found a few pictures and references to this on the interwebs, but none of 
them are terribly detailed or have a good picture.


-D
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Solar - was Phone sales

2017-03-30 Thread MG via Mercedes


I can give you some info on my system, Scott.

24 Q-cell 310 modules
size 77"x39"
Power output 312.5 watt nominal
SMA 7000W inverter

Cost around $33K including the support structure which I decided 
to build to get the panels high enough to keep down some of the 
dust and eliminate as much of the damage possibilities as 
possible. The cost of just the roof mounted system is about 
$23.5K. Theoretical payback should be 13-14 years if the price of 
electricity (.125 cents/KW) here remains the same. Of course with 
my luck the cost of electricity will drop dramatically and it 
will take forever to pay itself back.


It's called a 7.44 kW system but the highest I've seen it go is 
about 6.5 kW or so. Right now it's putting out about 5.2kW on a 
nice bright Fl day with just a few little puffies because the 
garbage from the trees has covered the panels in green dust and 
we haven't had a rain in a God awful long time it seems. As of 
right now, I just checked about an hour ago, today it has put out 
25 some odd kWH. With clean system and bright sun it has done 
over 40 in a day.


The system is located on a south facing roof with a 4in12 slope 
thats about 20deg. the roof is mostly clear of shadow from the 
morning till about 5 or 6 in the afternoon, when some of the 
panels start to get a bit of shade.


All in all quite satisfied.

Manfred

Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

I have been a solar skeptic but I would be very interested in a report on 
Andrew's first-hand experience.
  
Like:

How many and what size (watts and inches) and type panels?
How installed (roof?) and orientation?
Cost and business model (buy/lease)?
Actual KWH produced vs time of year?
How is panel DC output interfaces with AC house supply?

Like most here (probably), I have experience with solar cells of yesteryear and 
read the hype of current technology but have no direct experience with actual 
current installations.




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Re: [MBZ] 13 and 15

2017-03-30 Thread MG via Mercedes

About the only thing I know for you to do would be to look at the
two pages of the schematic covering the gauges for the 126. Look
at all the wires going to the gauges labeled as C151. That's the
round plug. On the other side of the wire from the C151 is the
number of the location in the plug. The colors of the wire are
next to the wire somewhere along the run of it.

clay via Mercedes wrote:

I have been pulling my hair out for the past three weeks trying to figure out
just why in the world did my cabin lights and cluster not illuminate. I test
bulbs, swap out fixtures, bench test things and grow more perplexed.

I pulled the cluster so that I could swap out the non functional
odometer/speedo unit and made sure all bulbs were good. I was doing other
stuff and two days ago the cluster cable harness came apart. Just a little.
Enough that I ended up putting a few connectors in the wrong place. Now the
charging light goes off when I release parking brake. And the brake pad sensor
light is on. I need to find a diagram on how to put the situation right. 1982
SD.

Either way, I was doing the multimeter probing/testing for how to wire in the
Becker this afternoon. The switched power was working, but the constant 12v
just was not there. Oh, and the hazards never worked. Blinkers were fine,
just no 4 ways. I had five other hazard switches and tried them all. No
flasher. I pulled the hazard switch in Polei and tested all the switches.
They worked fine.

Most of you will have figured out what was going on by now. For the slow
folks, like me, here goes.

When I got the car I changed out the fuses, as per Marshall. The old ones were put in a baggie for testing and I installed the nice brass fuses that were part of the large spare parts selection. There were a few spots that did not have fuses, and I had runout of new ones anyway.

In reading what powers which so that I could install the radio, I looked over
the fuse list. There were a few fuses that looked like they would be
responsible for some of the issues I had. As part of the search as to why the
constant power was not behaving, I pop the hood and open the fuse box. There
are two missing fuses. Yep, the two that make everything that was not working,
work as they should.

Radio is in, it powers up and shows the four dashes. It will need to visit the
dealer to have them use the magic key to unlock it. I have not found anything
that would allow for the illumination wire or the anti-theft. Maybe the dealer
will know what is needed.

clay
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Re: [MBZ] This is Strangely Cool

2017-03-28 Thread MG via Mercedes

Who would have thought the Russians had that kind of art in them. 
Though maybe a little late as it looks like it would fit in well 
with some of the earlier American cars like the Hudson and what 
was that other one that also had a rear engine done I believe by 
some airplane designer. Also brings to mind the Doodlebug fuel truck.


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
Me too.  I must confess I had some impure thoughts in that regard.  Both 
points as you mention.


--FT


On 3/28/17 10:17 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
I must be in love with curves. That just looks cool. Bad thing is I 
would want to drive it all the time. 




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Re: [MBZ] This is Strangely Cool

2017-03-28 Thread MG via Mercedes

I must be in love with curves. That just looks cool. Bad thing is 
I would want to drive it all the time.


Looks almost like it has an oil bath air cleaner.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I don’t know why, but I’m fascinated by the air cooled V8:

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-tatra-603/

-D



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Re: [MBZ] Anybody rebuild the sls pump?

2017-03-28 Thread MG via Mercedes

That is the valve in the back. I have rebuilt the one in my TD 
and it has been working fine for over 5 years now. The big thing 
to remember, if you can find a kit, is you need to indelibly mark 
the position of the arm that connects to the link from the sway 
bar on the shaft going into the pump. You can figure out where it 
should be positioned from the manual diagrams but it's a royal 
pain and if you are in any way mechanically/ spatially challenged 
in the slightest then you may never get it where it should be. 
The factory almost certainly had jigs to set this. Don't ask.


The kit from Mercedes is 000-586-00-32 and shows as available for 
$40-$50 depending on how good a relationship you have with your 
parts man.


Manfred
Not mechanically or spatially challenged, just lazy and I'll deny 
I ever reveled this.


Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:

85 tdt settles after shutting it off. Is that the pump, or the little valve
in back? I put the better looking guts of the two pumps I had back into the
head when it went on, so thought maybe the pump needing attention.

Thanks.
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Re: [MBZ] Spring Stretch Results

2017-03-27 Thread MG via Mercedes


That's the newer version. Find an older one and use it.

Mike Esh via Mercedes wrote:
I removed the bolt but I could not remove the spring.  It looks like a 
ball with a spring some how holding the ball?  I  could see the ball and 
spring through the holes in the bolt but not remove the spring.   Am I 
doing some thing wrong?


Mike
Michael E. Esh
m...@barr.com
michael...@mac.com
(C) 231.894.5505

On Mar 27, 2017, at 09:45 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Michael,

Just follow the clear plastic return line from the filter assembly that 
goes to a banjo bolt on the engine side of the IP. You'll know you've 
found it when you see the banjo bolt that looks like it has a bolt head 
with a lock nut underneath it.


-D

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 27, 2017, at 9:26 AM, Michael Esh via Mercedes 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Could someone post the email with picture of the location of this 
spring/nut? Or the description? I can't find the original email and I 
want to give it a try in 85 300D.

Thanks
Mike

Michael E. Esh


On Mar 27, 2017, at 8:53 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
wrote:


I still haven't driven the 300D since I did the spring stretch. Once I 
do I'll report back.


I'm sort of interested in the OM603's version of this and how it might 
affect that engine. There are some threads on PeachParts about low power 
or poor performance on the OM603 relative to this part.


Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 27, 2017, at 9:19 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

That is my thought. I believe the spring may have been weak enough to 
lower the pressure in the pump to the point where the fuel wasn't 
filling the injector pistons all the way especially the last ones in 
line. It may also have advanced the timing some. In the injection pump 
on the GM 6.2 and 6.5 when the ignition is turned to start a wire that 
goes to the injection pump pulls the relief valve open which the manual 
says, if I remember correctly, drops the pressure in the injection pump 
to 0, retarding the injection timing by I think 4 deg. The normal 
pressure in there is about 10-12lbs. My thought is the same thing is 
happening here even though the pumps are different the principle is 
probably the same.


In any case the more even idle and the quieter engine under power as 
well as the better response seem to point to that conclusion. Though I 
really need to do that 2mm chain stretch test to see what my chain 
stretch actually is. The quick and dirty method says around 4-5deg but 
that's not very precise.


Anyway even the manual recommends stretching the spring to 27mm if the 
pressure is low. No I didn't check the pressure but given the age of the 
car I have little doubt that it wasn't where it once was when new.


My next little project is to put an electric pressure gauge on the line 
between the final filter and the pump to keep track of the pressure 
while driving. This should tell me when my filter is getting to the 
point of needing a change.


Manfred



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Re: [MBZ] Spring Stretch Results

2017-03-27 Thread MG via Mercedes

Nope. All you can do there is either put in a new one or get an 
old version that you can stretch the spring on.


Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

From what I see the 603 one has the non removable end so I am not sure you can 
get the spring out?

Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 26, 2017, at 11:04 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
wrote:

Manfred,

Are you suggesting that the changes in your engine operation are due to your 
stretching the relief valve spring?

And Curley - have you tinkered with the same spring on the OM603 engines and 
seen a difference in performance or operation?

-D



On Mar 26, 2017, at 10:22 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

My 300TD is still doing a nice smooth idle and does seem to have more power and 
oddly enough the engine is quieter both at idle and going down the road. I have 
the impression that it accelerates as well now as it did before I put in the 
lower ratio differential from the 84 TD. After I had put the differential in I 
noticed a definite slower acceleration that is now gone. The mileage on the 
first tank, and I always fill till I see the actual liquid fuel at the top of 
the fill pipe, with the 5% correction for the difference in the gear ratios has 
gone up to 26.2 from 24.6. That was mostly a trip down to Orlando including a 
lot of stop and go both on the way down (441) and in town there as well as 
using the AC all the way back. I expect that it may go up a bit with my normal 
driving around the G'ville area.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:


Did the spring stretch on the 300D pressure valve.  The spring is definitely 
the original based on a visual inspection, and was barely 2 cm long.  I 
stretched it to 27 mm and installed it.  A definite difference in idle 
smoothness - he engine doesn’t sway nearly as much as it had previously, so 
this is good.
Might just do the steering stabilizer on the 350SDL in the driveway, since it 
won’t take but a couple of minutes.  I’m thinking I’ll save the SL500 for 
tomorrow.  Gotta pace myself….
-D

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Re: [MBZ] Spring Stretch Results

2017-03-27 Thread MG via Mercedes

That is my thought. I believe the spring may have been weak 
enough to lower the pressure in the pump to the point where the 
fuel wasn't filling the injector pistons all the way especially 
the last ones in line. It may also have advanced the timing some. 
In the injection pump on the GM 6.2 and 6.5 when the ignition is 
turned to start a wire that goes to the injection pump pulls the 
relief valve open which the manual says, if I remember correctly, 
drops the pressure in the injection pump to 0, retarding the 
injection timing by I think 4 deg. The normal pressure in there 
is about 10-12lbs. My thought is the same thing is happening here 
even though the pumps are different the principle is probably the 
same.


In any case the more even idle and the quieter engine under power 
as well as the better response seem to point to that conclusion. 
Though I really need to do that 2mm chain stretch test to see 
what my chain stretch actually is. The quick and dirty method 
says around 4-5deg but that's not very precise.


Anyway even the manual recommends stretching the spring to 27mm 
if the pressure is low. No I didn't check the pressure but given 
the age of the car I have little doubt that it wasn't where it 
once was when new.


My next little project is to put an electric pressure gauge on 
the line between the final filter and the pump to keep track of 
the pressure while driving. This should tell me when my filter is 
getting to the point of needing a change.


Manfred

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Manfred,

Are you suggesting that the changes in your engine operation are due to your 
stretching the relief valve spring?

And Curley - have you tinkered with the same spring on the OM603 engines and 
seen a difference in performance or operation?

-D

 

On Mar 26, 2017, at 10:22 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

My 300TD is still doing a nice smooth idle and does seem to have more power and 
oddly enough the engine is quieter both at idle and going down the road. I have 
the impression that it accelerates as well now as it did before I put in the 
lower ratio differential from the 84 TD. After I had put the differential in I 
noticed a definite slower acceleration that is now gone. The mileage on the 
first tank, and I always fill till I see the actual liquid fuel at the top of 
the fill pipe, with the 5% correction for the difference in the gear ratios has 
gone up to 26.2 from 24.6. That was mostly a trip down to Orlando including a 
lot of stop and go both on the way down (441) and in town there as well as 
using the AC all the way back. I expect that it may go up a bit with my normal 
driving around the G'ville area.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:


Did the spring stretch on the 300D pressure valve.  The spring is definitely 
the original based on a visual inspection, and was barely 2 cm long.  I 
stretched it to 27 mm and installed it.  A definite difference in idle 
smoothness - he engine doesn’t sway nearly as much as it had previously, so 
this is good.
Might just do the steering stabilizer on the 350SDL in the driveway, since it 
won’t take but a couple of minutes.  I’m thinking I’ll save the SL500 for 
tomorrow.  Gotta pace myself….
-D

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Re: [MBZ] Now Today's Fun! - Now Spring Stretch Results

2017-03-26 Thread MG via Mercedes

My 300TD is still doing a nice smooth idle and does seem to have 
more power and oddly enough the engine is quieter both at idle 
and going down the road. I have the impression that it 
accelerates as well now as it did before I put in the lower ratio 
differential from the 84 TD. After I had put the differential in 
I noticed a definite slower acceleration that is now gone. The 
mileage on the first tank, and I always fill till I see the 
actual liquid fuel at the top of the fill pipe, with the 5% 
correction for the difference in the gear ratios has gone up to 
26.2 from 24.6. That was mostly a trip down to Orlando including 
a lot of stop and go both on the way down (441) and in town there 
as well as using the AC all the way back. I expect that it may go 
up a bit with my normal driving around the G'ville area.


Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:


Did the spring stretch on the 300D pressure valve.  The spring is definitely 
the original based on a visual inspection, and was barely 2 cm long.  I 
stretched it to 27 mm and installed it.  A definite difference in idle 
smoothness - he engine doesn’t sway nearly as much as it had previously, so 
this is good.

Might just do the steering stabilizer on the 350SDL in the driveway, since it 
won’t take but a couple of minutes.  I’m thinking I’ll save the SL500 for 
tomorrow.  Gotta pace myself….

-D



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Re: [MBZ] Loud TOCK sound when shutting om617 off.

2017-03-26 Thread MG via Mercedes


Or the exhaust pipe mount rubbers have disintegrated

Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

Exhaust pipe hitting something?



Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
March 25, 2017 at 10:00 PM
Transmission mount?



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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb needs this

2017-03-24 Thread MG via Mercedes

Our 64 and 67 all window vans both had the wall. The 70 had the 
gap to walk through. A girlfriend's 62 panel van with just the 
window in the rear hatch also had the wall. I think that in those 
early years the wall was standard. It is possible that after the 
redesign in 68 with the big front window that the walk through 
was made the standard at least over here but I don't know enough 
about the history of it all to say for sure. At the same time the 
roof vent system in the front was changed and the placement of 
the heater and vent control was moved to the dash which allowed 
the floor to be flat from front to back. Before that the heater 
control was in the center under the front of the bench seat.


Mountain Man via Mercedes wrote:

Same front seat arrangement on my 74 transporter in Denver - we had a
wall behind the front bench.  For a transporter, the wall behind front
bench was a seemingly rare arrangement? - the BAT dealer-parts vehicle
of course needs a wall behind the front bench, whereas most
transporters I see have passage from front to back between front
seats.  My 74 transporter was a wonderful vehicle to my memory.
tin.tin

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Re: [MBZ] 240D 123 Lucas gremlins

2017-03-22 Thread MG via Mercedes

The fuses for the lights will not be carrying power till you turn 
on the light switch. Those would be 1,3,7,9,11,13. The lights are 
supplied power straight from the battery power bus, so the 
ignition switch will not affect them anyway.


That said everything points to fuse 12. Take the thing out and 
throw it as far as you can and replace it with a brand new copper 
or brass fuse.




Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Yes. I am glad it is a 123.  The weirdness continues anyhow.   The top 
row of fuses: 1,3,5,7,... and window fuses a and b on the left side, all 
have no juice, switch on, according to the meter.  Some of them are for 
headlights and tail lights, but weirdly, the headlights and taillights 
work, but the turn signals don't.   I checked this with a good digital 
meter, black on engine, red probing fuse contacts.  Bottom fuses (Even 
numbers) and fses c, d, on the right, all showed 12.13V.


Switch?  Wire from switch?   Headlights are unswitched...but they work.

That was my first thought, but no amount of wiggling could create a 
closed circuit, where generally with a bad switch, the contact can be 
made by wiggling the key, or switching on, off, or wiggling key 
counterclockwise.


The list being sure it was a ground, I tried there second.


Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
March 21, 2017 at 4:51 PM
Aren't you glad it is a simple car? Could be a whole lot worse on a 
newer vehicle.


RB




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Curley McLain 
March 21, 2017 at 4:35 PM
Y'all may remember a couple weeks ago I posted about the electrical 
gremlins in the 240D (81)


The thing acts like it is possessed by the prince of darkness (Lucas) 
not designed by MB/Bosch


These circuits all went out at the same time:
Gas gauge
temp gauge
turn signals (4 ways work)
both window circuits
heater blower

Today I dug into the cluster and loosened and tightened the chassis 
grounds behind the cluster.


It resulted in no change.

I left the switch on in the process so if bad contact was made good, I 
would hear the blower or other circuits working.  There was nothing.


Where to look next?  Either there is a bad feed to multiple circuits 
in the fusebox or bad ground that affects all these circuits.


I'll head out with a meter to be sure all are getting juice, but my 
thinking is still that I am chasing a bad ground somewhere.  It does 
not appear to be the grounds  behind the cluster.





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Re: [MBZ] Anyone Ever Heard of This?

2017-03-20 Thread MG via Mercedes

There is a slight downslope toward the pump so the ball should be 
safe. At least it wasn't any problem for me.


Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:



MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 20, 2017 at 5:36 PM
If you can I would go ahead and stretch the spring first just to see 
if it helps. It takes 10 min. to take the spring cover bolt loose from 
the top of the banjo bolt on the engine side of the pump. Hold the 
banjo bolt with a 17mm wrench and use a 14mm to loosen the plug, you 
don't have to take the whole banjo bolt out, the spring is a very weak 
spring so that isn't any problem even after it's stretched. Just don't 
drop the little copper sealing ring. (OR THE BALL!)


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Re: [MBZ] Anyone Ever Heard of This?

2017-03-20 Thread MG via Mercedes

If you can I would go ahead and stretch the spring first just to
see if it helps. It takes 10 min. to take the spring cover bolt
loose from the top of the banjo bolt on the engine side of the
pump. Hold the banjo bolt with a 17mm wrench and use a 14mm to
loosen the plug, you don't have to take the whole banjo bolt out,
the spring is a very weak spring so that isn't any problem even
after it's stretched. Just don't drop the little copper sealing
ring.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Thanks for researching this, Manfred!

The bolt with spring is a whopping $27 list from Mercedes, so I may order one
for my 300D, which has a really rough idle. That is, it shakes at idle big
time, but everything is in order from what I can tell.

Dan

On Mar 20, 2017, at 3:58 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I read the whole list of messages on this and came to the conclusion that the
guy is just trying to make some money. If you read the manual it says that if
the spring in there is too weak to keep the pressure above .8 bar then adjust
it to 27mm. In other words stretch the spring and put it back together. Which
by the way is what that guy says not to do because it causes problems. I will
always try the MB manual way first because it hasn't caused me any problems
yet. It may cause him problems in his pocketbook but it feels just fine in mine.

One of the things the manual also says is to put a pressure gauge on the line
and pinch the banana hose shut and see if you have at least 1-1.3 bar. If you
don't then you need to rebuild the lift pump. I will have to do that next. BTW
stretching the spring on mine to 25mm did smooth out the idle a bit.

Manfred

clay via Mercedes wrote:

I just did yesterday. Club event at local shop, we got to put cars in the air.
Fellow who has a red 220D that he keeps immaculate, showed up late. We have
been pals since I got Gump. He has all manner of manuals and deep research.
ANYWAY, he learned of this item and was thinking he needed the Mercedes Source
rebuild kit. Much money and instructions. Then he looked online (being big on
research) and the part is $18, no longer a rebuild item. It comes all as a
unit and is used on IP from 1965-1985 (OM617). I have no idea what it does,
but seems it needs replaced on my SD. Just because.
clay

On Mar 18, 2017, at 10:41 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/361825-performance-overflow-valve.html

-D

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone Ever Heard of This?

2017-03-20 Thread MG via Mercedes

I read the whole list of messages on this and came to the
conclusion that the guy is just trying to make some money. If you
read the manual it says that if the spring in there is too weak
to keep the pressure above .8 bar then adjust it to 27mm. In
other words stretch the spring and put it back together. Which by
the way is what that guy says not to do because it causes
problems. I will always try the MB manual way first because it
hasn't caused me any problems yet. It may cause him problems in
his pocketbook but it feels just fine in mine.

One of the things the manual also says is to put a pressure gauge
on the line and pinch the banana hose shut and see if you have at
least 1-1.3 bar. If you don't then you need to rebuild the lift
pump. I will have to do that next. BTW stretching the spring on
mine to 25mm did smooth out the idle a bit.

Manfred

clay via Mercedes wrote:

I just did yesterday. Club event at local shop, we got to put cars in the air.

Fellow who has a red 220D that he keeps immaculate, showed up late. We have
been pals since I got Gump. He has all manner of manuals and deep research.

ANYWAY, he learned of this item and was thinking he needed the Mercedes Source
rebuild kit. Much money and instructions. Then he looked online (being big on
research) and the part is $18, no longer a rebuild item. It comes all as a
unit and is used on IP from 1965-1985 (OM617). I have no idea what it does,
but seems it needs replaced on my SD. Just because.

clay

On Mar 18, 2017, at 10:41 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
wrote:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/361825-performance-overflow-valve.html

-D

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Re: [MBZ] HF Ball Joint Separator

2017-03-12 Thread MG via Mercedes

When you use the tool, tighten the separation bolt and then hit
the steering knuckle right where the tie rod bolt goes through.
That should pop it loose. If not tighten the bolt some more and
hit again. A few good licks usually make it pop. Do the same with
where the ball joint connects to the LCA. I've also found that
using an air hammer on those points can work better, more
vibration for less force.

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Snagged one of these this morning. Wife’s SL500 has a sloppy inner tie rod end
and I have a new tie rod coming tomorrow, so it will be a good opportunity to
try it out. I have a pickle fork, but if I don’t have to beat on something to
separate it, it’s all the better, I think.

Drove the 300SEL this morning for my early morning grocery run and a later trip
to HF. Runs great, no issues. I’ll probably drive it to work tomorrow to
stretch its legs a bit. I know the first tank of fuel will have sucky mileage
since it’s spent a fair amount of time idling and running on five cylinders in
the last week, but I really want to get a full tank through it to see how it’s
doing.

I need to get an analog voltmeter so I can set the duty cycle of the fuel
system. As I understand it, once these systems are set up properly they’ll
even run pretty well in limp home mode. Can’t beat that. Here’s a really good
writeup for setting duty cycle for the Bosch KE-Jetronic fuel system:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/2720049-ke-jetronic-lambda-control-duty-cycle.html

-D
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Re: [MBZ] Old diesels made new

2017-03-11 Thread MG via Mercedes

If he was a lot closer I would take a chance. It's a lot better 
then $7500 for just a long block.


Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 20:34:44 -0800 clay via Mercedes
 wrote:


https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/6035447400.html

I am not sure what to make of this.  I do not need a motor, but these
are just so pretty.


They are pretty.

How well are they rebuilt?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Old diesels made new

2017-03-11 Thread MG via Mercedes

That was my thought when I saw it but I don't need any more new
projects right now.

clay via Mercedes wrote:
You would need to make them all pretty. Like new pretty. Is there a market for diesel engines out your way? We have overly paid fools who are still big on old cars. Ran into one fellow who picked up a 78 300D and had no idea what all he had.

On Mar 10, 2017, at 9:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
wrote:

Hell I guess I need to start rebuilding some of my engines.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 10, 2017, at 10:34 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/6035447400.html

I am not sure what to make of this. I do not need a motor, but these are just
so pretty.

---
clay

I turned my computer upside down and shook it, but the bookmark for what I'm
looking for didn't fall out.

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Re: [MBZ] Kyle's Next Wagon

Wow that just gets me so exited 
tha


Oh what happened? I must have drifted off for a bit there.

Now what were we talking about?

archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:
By then 4 bolt-on motor wheels, battery pack in place of engine, and control unit in place of instrument panel. 
And it will be self-driving.

Doesn't that thought make your day?
~~~
Karl Wittnebelcom> wrote:


Nah. By then the om648 will be the ticket.

On Mar 5, 2017 9:23 AM, "Kyle Arola via Mercedes" 
wrote:


That sounds like a super nice swap! Something to consider in another 100k
miles or so...

Kyle

On Mar 5, 2017 8:40 AM, "Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:


Herbert my mechanic swapped a 560sl drivetrain into his w123 wagon from a
car he was left with. It was a nice direct swap without a lot of bs.
Probably had more power than this junker ever will. He used to tow his
water ski boat to lake havasu and back with it for about 10 years. He

just

sold it for 7k. It had a new leather interior in it, totally perfect. Guy
got a deal.

On Mar 4, 2017 2:11 PM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes"

Re: [MBZ] 123 weirdness

The Blinker relay, 4 way switch and the dash blinker indicator 
lights are all grounded behind the dash. You have to have a good 
ground there for the relay to work reliably.



Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Ground seems to be the only commonality for windows, gauges but not turn 
signals, as those are grounded at the 4 corners I think


On the 124, the windows are grounded under the tunnel, near the 
gearshift.  I don't know where the ground for 123 windows may be.


I've never scrapped a 123, so I am at a bit of a disadvantage.


Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
March 6, 2017 at 6:42 PM
Ground? I had the fuel and temp gauges quit because of a cluster 
ground. They'd bounce forlornly when the blinkers were on leading me 
to believe theres some grounding commonality there...

-Curt



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Re: [MBZ] 123 weirdness

Oh on the blinker relay I also found out that if it isn't clipped
on securely then you can't hardly hear it click when it blinks.

clay via Mercedes wrote:
Could be the ground, or the flasher relay. Not sure if it lives behind the cluster or if the W123 had it built into the 4 way flasher. Removing the switches and some contact cleaner helps at times.

clay

On Mar 6, 2017, at 4:19 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
wrote:

Well, if it was a fuse problem, that would work. However the mentioned systems
are on more than one circuit, and some things on the mentioned circuits DO
work. I did, however check the fuses and alles gut.

So, I am still looking for a common B+ feed.

Cluster lights work. 4 way flashers work, but turn signals don't. Tried
cycling the flasher switch, maybe 50 times, with no change.

Maybe I am chasing a ground.

Randy Bennell via Mercedes
March 6, 2017 at 4:35 PM
VOICE FROM BEYOND . . .

"REPLACE THE FUSES"

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Re: [MBZ] 123 weirdness

The flasher relay in the 123 is clipped to the front of the
shifter housing under the wood and does both the 4 ways and the
blinkers, all routed through the 4 way switch. If it doesn't make
good contact in the off position it will cause the blinkers not
to work. Found that out many times already due to my habit of
setting cups on the center console switches when I get out.
Sometimes tips the switch just enough so the blinkers don't work
when I get back in. Probably not the problem in this case since
he said that he worked the switch back and forth quite a few
times and it didn't help. I'm assuming he meant the 4 way switch
and not the blinker switch.

Loosen the bolts and use contact cleaner on the ground points
behind the instruments? Can't hurt.

clay

On Mar 6, 2017, at 4:19 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
wrote:

So, I am still looking for a common B+ feed.

Cluster lights work. 4 way flashers work, but turn signals don't. Tried
cycling the flasher switch, maybe 50 times, with no change.

Maybe I am chasing a ground.

Randy Bennell via Mercedes
March 6, 2017 at 4:35 PM
VOICE FROM BEYOND . . .

"REPLACE THE FUSES"

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Re: [MBZ] Car for Kyle and SWMBO

2017-03-06 Thread MG via Mercedes

No no. You don't keep insurance or tag on it when not needed. You 
switch them over from the other one when you need it. Takes two 
phone calls.


Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

I have a spare truck if the MB breaks down so another car is not really
what I need, or want to insure and take care of.

If I did want another "real" car, I certainly would look at a nice older
MB... Maybe a Coupe as I think those are pretty cool!

Kyle

On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Naa, this one is for his n Hers.  Or a backup car for when one of the
others needs work.  It is much cheaper to keep a spare MB Diesel than to be
without wheels due to repairs or catastrophe.

Kyle Arola via Mercedes 

March 6, 2017 at 10:18 AM
I did look at that wagon also. I just hesitated as getting it here without
a blue interior seemed to be too much work.

I will get the perfect spare car when the perfect spare comes along! Or
maybe just skip the whole thing and wait until I need an
engine/transmission/etc.

Kyle


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Re: [MBZ] Car for Kyle and SWMBO

2017-03-06 Thread MG via Mercedes

That kind of makes me want to go and look at it. Too bad I don't 
have the time or money. OK I need a good excuse and can't think 
of one. I wonder if he kept the rear SLS shocks he took out and 
if the rest of the stuff is still on the car.


Not too bad a price.

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

I did look at that wagon also.  I just hesitated as getting it here without
a blue interior seemed to be too much work.

I will get the perfect spare car when the perfect spare comes along!  Or
maybe just skip the whole thing and wait until I need an
engine/transmission/etc.

Kyle

On Mon, Mar 6, 2017 at 10:09 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I like it - the seller seems to be a full discloser who realizes his car
will take a lot of work to bring it up to snuff.  A visit and some kind
words and he'd probably let it go for $1300.  Unfortunatey, the interior is
the wrong color for Kyle et al.

On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 11:11 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


https://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/5999581053.html

Almost as good as the first, and a lot less money.

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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Sunday Fun!

Thanks Dan, I'll need to get some of the stripper to do the 
original wheels before I repaint them. Then they will go on one 
of the other cars. I wish the basket weave 15" wheels didn't cost 
so much, I'd get more of them.


Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Manfred,

50-1/2” across the ends of the bar measuring from the outside edge.

I used this stripper.  Powerful stuff, but does the job:

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/aircraft-paint-remover-aerosol

-D


On Mar 5, 2017, at 10:29 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Dan do you know what the distance is between the arms of the sway bar? Also 
what is the name of the stripper and where did you get it?

Manfred


Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Oy.  What a day….
I spent an hour putting the new 10mm rear sway bar on the 350SDL.  Hit it with some aircraft stripper I had 

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Re: [MBZ] The conclusion of the garbage disposal

trouble is most of those for a long time have been using paper 
filters. Heck my 71 IH 125c has double paper filters in a round 
canister. Unfortunately that one is way too big to fit under the 
hood. I need a local tractor junk yard so I can look at a bunch 
of them. I haven't found one down here yet. Not much farming 
going on in Fl anymore. Either that or they aren't getting rid of 
their tractors in state.


Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I doubt it.  that is why I suggested snagging one from an old tractor or 
road grader, etc.



MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 5, 2017 at 2:05 PM
But would that flow the amount of air needed by the 617 turbo?




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Re: [MBZ] The conclusion of the garbage disposal

Not really if you're used to it. They do tend to clean the dust 
out of the air better then the paper filters or so it seemed to me.


Dump the old oil out, wipe out any dirt, fill up with oil you 
just took out of the engine.


Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
What is the advantage of doing that? Those oil bath filters are nasty to mess with. 


Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 5, 2017, at 11:29 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
wrote:

You can adapt one form the 110.110 to the 123 240D.  Particularly the early 
240Ds with the swing tube intake.  That is a simple bolt on transfer from 
110.110

Or you can take the whole intake manifold from 110.110 (OM621) and bolt it  on 
the OM616.  BTDT

for 5 cyl, you would have to salvage a oil bath off a bigger engine.  Old 
tractors around here...


MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 5, 2017 at 11:05 AM
Kind of like the oil bath air filters that I used to love in the VWs. I wish 
there was one for the 123.


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Re: [MBZ] The conclusion of the garbage disposal


I can still ask them tomorrow.

Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

There is one in the epc but I doubt it is still available

Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 5, 2017, at 11:23 AM, OK Don via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

You could probably adapt one from an early 115 Diesel car - - - my '70 220D
had one.

On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 11:05 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:


Kind of like the oil bath air filters that I used to love in the VWs. I
wish there was one for the 123.





--
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] The conclusion of the garbage disposal


Never thought of looking at tractor filters. Hmmm

Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
You can adapt one form the 110.110 to the 123 240D.  Particularly the 
early 240Ds with the swing tube intake.  That is a simple bolt on 
transfer from 110.110


Or you can take the whole intake manifold from 110.110 (OM621) and bolt 
it  on the OM616.  BTDT


for 5 cyl, you would have to salvage a oil bath off a bigger engine.  
Old tractors around here...



MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 5, 2017 at 11:05 AM
Kind of like the oil bath air filters that I used to love in the VWs. 
I wish there was one for the 123.




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Re: [MBZ] The conclusion of the garbage disposal


But would that flow the amount of air needed by the 617 turbo?

OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

You could probably adapt one from an early 115 Diesel car - - - my '70 220D
had one.

On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 11:05 AM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:


Kind of like the oil bath air filters that I used to love in the VWs. I
wish there was one for the 123.








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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Saturday Fun!

Nothing in my wallet to strip. I am kind of concerned about the 
balls part. Kind of attached to them.


G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

I had heard she was talented at stripping wallets, had no idea she could
strip paint off of valve covers That is "world class"... what next,
stripping chrome off trailer hitch balls?

On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 9:34 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I was close, I thought her name is Bambi

Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>

March 5, 2017 at 10:13 AM
Brandi.  From the gentlemen's club over by the airport.

--FT




MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 5, 2017 at 9:29 AM
Dan do you know what the distance is between the arms of the sway bar?
Also what is the name of the stripper and where did you get it?

Manfred




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Dan Penoff via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 4, 2017 at 7:09 PM
Oy. What a dayâ€¦.

So I set out to do the upper timing cover seal, distributor cap cover,
wire cover and strip/paint the valve cover, which was peeling really bad.

Before I started in on the 300SEL, I spent an hour putting the new 10mm
rear sway bar on the 350SDL. OMG. The car drives like itâ€™s nailed down.
Absolutely no body roll in turns. Iâ€™m looking forward to driving to work
on Monday, as there are some pretty aggressive turns and such that are a
part of my commute. That will really show its performance.

So I get the 300SEL in the garage and get started. Iâ€™m just about to
remove the timing cover and I get a call from one of my neighbors who is a
quasi-HOA board member. Issues with the padlock on the inner gate in our
private park. Sigh. So I have to deal with that, which took a good hour to
resolve. So back to the carâ€¦

Get the top timing cover off, cleaned up, old cam seal out and ready to
go. Everything set up with MB (Hylomar) sealant and away I go. New cam seal
tapped in place, top timing cover is now sealed.

Now for the valve cover.

Hit it with some aircraft stripper I had and went in the house to get a
cold beverage and check mail. Come out 15 minutes later and the paint on
the valve cover has pretty well peeled off completely. With some scraping
and brushing I get it all off. The cover itself is not in good shape as far
as the surfaces. Itâ€™s really rough for some reason. Anyway, I hit it with
degreaser and let it sit. Come back in a few, rinse it off and pop it in
the outdoor over on low to dry out.

Back to the garage to do some other things.

Pull the air cleaner housing and find that a couple of the mounts are
broken. No surprise there. One of the plastic â€œfeetâ€  on the air cleaner
housing has a mount seized up on it and the foot has some serious cracks,
probably due to some gorilla trying to remove it. I try to break the nut
loose but only end up breaking the foot completely off. Grr. After a
liberal application of Kroil and a pair of channellocks am I able to get
the remains of the mount off.

I got to put the distributor cap back on with the new cover, only to find
the little carbon pin in the center that goes to the rotor is gone. ??? A
trip to Ace and the â€œmajik boxesâ€  saves the day - again! Found a small
square motor brush for $4.40 that I was able to file into a cylindrical
shape to fit the hole where the pin was missing. The spring was still
there, so Iâ€™m confident it will work long enough to move the car around
the driveway. Ordered a new Bosch cap and rotor from Amazon.

One thing thatâ€™s really nice about the new cover that goes over the
distributor cap is that it has a diagram of how to route the spark plug
wires. Cool! Iâ€™ve never seen this on an M103 before. The plastic covers
for the wire gutter on the valve cover were kaput as they always are. Added
those part numbers to my Monday morning Mercedes order. Amazingly, those
two parts are only about $12.00 total.

Got the plug wire all back on the distributor cap.

Changed spark plugs with Bosch W9DC plugs from the dealer. Old plugs were
awful. They were pretty clean, but the gaps on them were huge simply due to
wear. Easily double the spec.

Had the requisite vacuum lines snap off during various operations. I
normally keep a couple of meters of the stuff around, but I forgot to
restock. Have to add that to the dealer order, too.

Killing time waiting for the JB Weld to set up on the air cleaner housing
I hosed the leaking PS cooler hoses and clamps in anticipation of changing
them tomorrow. Thatâ€™s going to be pretty nasty.

Called it a night and figured I would let he air cleaner housing repairs
set up over night. Iâ€™ve got new breather and snorkel hoses that will get
installed when the air cleaner housing gets refitted. Old ones we

Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Saturday Fun!


I don't care I'll take them all.

Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

And the sailors say Brandi...

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 11:13 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:   Brandi.  From the gentlemen's club over by the airport.


--FT


On 3/5/17 10:29 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:

Also what is the name of the stripper and where did you get it?

Manfred




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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Saturday Fun!


I'll get right over there. I hope she does longer engagements.

Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

Brandi.  From the gentlemen's club over by the airport.

--FT


On 3/5/17 10:29 AM, MG via Mercedes wrote:

Also what is the name of the stripper and where did you get it?

Manfred




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Re: [MBZ] OT what's the name for this Dell laptop part?


Pencil eraser with a hole in the bottom?

Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

I can't believe how much time I've wasted looking for one of these little
rubber buttons, and then the prices are pretty high.  I'd pay a buck or
two, but not $20!

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 10:22 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


L Brown in Quincy, MA obviously thinks he has cornered the market.   $20
for 10¢ worth of prastic!

Dan Penoff via Mercedes 

March 5, 2017 at 9:19 AM
Dang! I just looked at the prices, too!

Check eBay. You can probably find them much cheaper there….



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Re: [MBZ] The conclusion of the garbage disposal

Kind of like the oil bath air filters that I used to love in the 
VWs. I wish there was one for the 123.


Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

You didn't look at the links and you don't understand. It is a vacuum, it uses 
water for a filter not unlike the old oil bath water filters. Obviously the 
water shouldn't be put in the sink...
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Mar 5, 2017 at 9:28 AM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes wrote:   Rick, I understand that. BUT, if you use a regular vacuum first, it makes the job better. Mixing the two tasks lets you end up with the problem Kaleb experienced. I'm speaking from my wife's point of view and she's never clogged up our disposal in 39 years of marriage...so I assume she knows of what she speaks. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com 



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Re: [MBZ] 300SEL - Saturday Fun!

Dan do you know what the distance is between the arms of the sway 
bar? Also what is the name of the stripper and where did you get it?


Manfred


Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Oy.  What a day….

I spent an hour putting the new 10mm rear sway bar on the 350SDL.  
Hit it with some aircraft stripper I had 


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Re: [MBZ] OT garbage disposals

2017-03-03 Thread MG via Mercedes

I'm just going by the manual which says 100g/L. With 12.5 L in 
the 123 cooling system that would be 1250 grams or around 2.75lbs 
according to one conversion program.


What are you using to get 7.5 lbs?

OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

That would be 7.5 lbs of anhydrous citric acid to the appropriate amount of
water. There is only one strength of anhydrous citric acid - full.

On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 7:15 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:


I'm a bit confused here. What strength citric acid is that and where do
you get it? According to the MB manual I need to use 2.75 lbs for a flush.
Are there differing strengths of citric acid and if so which strength
should be used to make a 10% solution?

Manfred








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Re: [MBZ] OT garbage disposals

2017-03-03 Thread MG via Mercedes

I'm a bit confused here. What strength citric acid is that and 
where do you get it? According to the MB manual I need to use 
2.75 lbs for a flush. Are there differing strengths of citric 
acid and if so which strength should be used to make a 10% solution?


Manfred

Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Sure acetic acid would work. I like citric acid because it comes dry and 5# 
makes probably 500 gallons of liquid so its easy to have a lot, oh and it 
doesn't smell.
-Curt

  From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: Andrew Strasfogel 

 Sent: Friday, March 3, 2017 3:37 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT garbage disposals
   
Would hot vinegar be an acceptable substitute for citric acid?


On Mar 3, 2017 11:58 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:


That or shave their heads?



-D



On Mar 3, 2017, at 11:53 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Maybe you should install a garbage disposal in your shower like Kramer.

Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 3, 2017, at 10:46 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Our shower drain gets slow (clogs) a couple times a year. I make a

slurry with baking soda and water, pour that in and let it set a couple
hours. Then mix up some HOT liquid citric acid and pour that in, it fizzes
like crazy for awhile, then pull the strainer and reach in with a wire and
the remaining hair just falls off. Plug the drain from the top, fill the
tub, pull the plug and blast the drain with the plunger a couple times and
its all clear.

Looking at it typed out it looks harder than it is, takes maybe half an

hour of actual effort plus a couple hours letting the baking soda sit.

-Curt

From: rogerhga--- via Mercedes 
To: "List, Mercedes" 
Cc: roger...@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2017 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT garbage disposals

Kaleb,
What are you doing with a cheap ($400) garbage disposal? Should be at

least twice that and probably a Bosch to match the DW. I don't know if I'm
just lucky or what but my disposal and DW are still going since 1999 when I
built my house. And the DW is a Maytag, but I don't remember the disposal,
GE maybe?

Now to the serious side, can't you just put in some drano or some sort,

after all, it cleans hair clogs in the other drain lines?

Good luck and best wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com



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Re: [MBZ] Powder Coating?

2017-03-03 Thread MG via Mercedes

Well that's what they told me. You might want to try and see what 
you find out.


Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

Oh... Bummer.

Kyle

On Mar 2, 2017 6:23 PM, "MG via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


First time I went there last Feb to ask about doing my wheels they told me
it would be September before they would have time to do them. When I went
in the middle of September they said they don't do wheels.

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:


Did you check with Powder Coating of Gainesville?  I know they have done
some amazing work and is who I am planning on visiting for my wheels.  Not
sure of their prices yet...

Kyle

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 12:04 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

Roger's welding and truck repair on South Main St does powder coating.

Said it would be 250-350 depending on how much needs to be done to clean
them. I thought it was a bit much and will see what the places in Orlando
want to do the job.

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

I have them on the rear already and the front are getting done this

Saturday.

It is just the overall appearance of the wheel is much nicer, in my
opinion, when the wheels are powder coated.

Kyle

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 8:14 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

Change to ceramic pads and you won't have an issue with dust.


-D

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 2, 2017, at 7:51 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

And I can't wait to get a spare set of bunts to powdercoat for the

wagon...

So easy to clean on car wash day!

Kyle


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Re: [MBZ] Powder Coating?

2017-03-02 Thread MG via Mercedes

First time I went there last Feb to ask about doing my wheels 
they told me it would be September before they would have time to 
do them. When I went in the middle of September they said they 
don't do wheels.


Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

Did you check with Powder Coating of Gainesville?  I know they have done
some amazing work and is who I am planning on visiting for my wheels.  Not
sure of their prices yet...

Kyle

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 12:04 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:


Roger's welding and truck repair on South Main St does powder coating.
Said it would be 250-350 depending on how much needs to be done to clean
them. I thought it was a bit much and will see what the places in Orlando
want to do the job.

Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:


I have them on the rear already and the front are getting done this
Saturday.

It is just the overall appearance of the wheel is much nicer, in my
opinion, when the wheels are powder coated.

Kyle

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 8:14 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

Change to ceramic pads and you won't have an issue with dust.

-D

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 2, 2017, at 7:51 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


And I can't wait to get a spare set of bunts to powdercoat for the


wagon...


So easy to clean on car wash day!

Kyle



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Re: [MBZ] Powder Coating?

2017-03-02 Thread MG via Mercedes

Roger's welding and truck repair on South Main St does powder 
coating. Said it would be 250-350 depending on how much needs to 
be done to clean them. I thought it was a bit much and will see 
what the places in Orlando want to do the job.


Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

I have them on the rear already and the front are getting done this
Saturday.

It is just the overall appearance of the wheel is much nicer, in my
opinion, when the wheels are powder coated.

Kyle

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 8:14 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes 
wrote:


Change to ceramic pads and you won't have an issue with dust.

-D

Sent from my iPad


On Mar 2, 2017, at 7:51 AM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

And I can't wait to get a spare set of bunts to powdercoat for the

wagon...

So easy to clean on car wash day!

Kyle



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Re: [MBZ] Natural gas

2017-03-02 Thread MG via Mercedes


either that or there's a leak and it's looking to go BOOM!!

Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
So the other house has natural gas and house has been vacant. I only had gas turned on for the last 2 months. Hot water heater is turned all the way down and furnace was set at 60 the first month. Bill for this vacant house was only about $50 a month less than the house we live in which is total electric. Around $120 for gas for an empty house. The bill for this house running heat pump during the coldest part of winter so far was about $180. So the 2nd month I turned off the furnace completely so the only thing running is water heater on low, that bill was only about 5-6 less. I think the gas company has a con job going on. 


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Powder Coating?

I just had my Rial wheels redone. The original powder coat was 
from the early 80's and was starting to wear away to an undercoat 
in some places but no scrapes or pealing anywhere. I hope the new 
stuff lasts at least half of that. They look very nice now.


Craig via Mercedes wrote:

Does anyone know the ins-and-outs of powder coating (beyond "spray it
with an electrostatic gun and heat it up until the powder fuses')?

How well does it stand up? Scratch/gouge resistance? Solar UV exposure?

Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Interesting thread on possible replacement for group 49 battery

I remembered that. That's why I went there to get one. Still need 
to get one of those 31p's for the bulldozer.


Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
no kidding.  I posted about the grp 49 battery price at home despot in 
early Jan.  Maybe it was $109 I saw too.  I know it was way less than 
FLAPS, so that is why I posted the advice to check out home despot is ya 
need a batt'ry.



Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
March 1, 2017 at 12:20 PM
No kidding?

Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] Parts car for Kyle!

Make sure you get it all notarized. Even with that I would still 
have him get a title and then transfer it to you. I think there 
is a penalty to be paid because it wasn't titled in Fl right 
away. Offer him $500 as is with the title the way it is or $2000 
with a good Fl title.


Manfred


Kyle Arola via Mercedes wrote:

UPDATE:

Current owner has no problem providing me with a bill of sale with his data
on it.  I feel moderately better about this now.  Meeting on for Saturday
morning if the wagon doesn't sell before that.  I cannot imagine that it
will but you never know...

Kyle

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 2:47 PM, Kyle Arola  wrote:


The problem is the current "owner" has the title, in the previous owners
name.  Never transferred to his ownership in Florida.  He is telling me
that I just "pretend" that I just purchased the car from the Carolina
dude.  I don't know if the Carolina (north or south I do not know) title
has a date on it or not, I just hate when people do things like this
half-assed.  I replied to Jerry that I would expect a bill of sale from him
regardless of the state of the title.  I do not want to drive home with a
"stolen" car on my trailer

Kyle

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 2:06 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


When I bought my 124 cabriolet, it had been abandoned at a garage and the
tow truck guy (a retired cop) went through the hassle of getting a new
title issued.  Here in SC the deal is the new "owner" sends a registered
letter to the last registered owner's address, I think the letter
basically
says that if the registered owner doesn't respond in 90 days or some time
period, the state will cancel the old title and issue a new title to the
new owner.  Once the 90 days are up with no response to the state, new
owner can get a new title issued.

Check with your local sheriffs office or municipal police, they may even
have the info online.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 1:07 PM, Kyle Arola via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I am emailing with Jerry, the "almost" owner.  Found out the title is in
the previous owners name from the Carolina's  From a "couple" of

years

ago.  I am pretty sure if the original title was filled out correctly

then

Jerry has to go to the DMV to get his title before he can sign it over

to

me.  But I may be wrong and perhaps a bill of sale will suffice?  Anyone
know that for Florida?

I will see where this ends up but I am not happy about the title

thing.  I

certainly don't "need" a parts car yet, but I do wonder how many are

really

left around anymore?  How long until we can't find a parts car at all?

Kyle

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 1:02 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


In those cases you drive it and maintain it until such time as it does
become a parts car

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 28, 2017, at 3:12 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

In the purgatory between parts car and too expensive to restore.

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 4:06 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


"rear passenger door where there is some flaked bondo"

ruhroh

--FT




On 2/28/17 2:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

https://lakeland.craigslist.org/cto/6023620737.html

-D

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--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or

small,

large or petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming

might

of

the enemy.”



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Re: [MBZ] Floors are done

If it's leaking then take it back and have them give you a new 
one. It isn't supposed to leak and you have had it for less then 
30 days or is it 90 that the warranty lasts.


Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

I got the HF $39 one for $24 with coupon, no big deal if you kill it.

Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 1, 2017, at 12:14 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes  
wrote:


On 01/03/2017 11:57 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
Floor joists replaced, all ceramic tile removed and pergo installed. Was at the 
house till 11pm last night finishing it up. Pergo is not hard to install just 
requires some thinking when have to meet up and different angles etc, 
especially since this is my first time doing it and with only basic wood 
working tools such as tape measure and table saw and my HF vibrating tool which 
I think we have have gotten it close to worn out. It is oozing all sorts of 
great out of the tip which I would not think it should do. Renters got the keys 
this morning and I finally got that nightmare over with.



Good for you!

I think that if one is buying one of those oscillating tools, it is wise to buy 
a bigger, better one (look for the amperage rating). I have the small Dremel 
version and it has not oozed grease, but it is pretty easy to get it really 
warm. I am afraid I am going to kill it so I have been looking at better ones 
and watching for a good deal.

RB


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Re: [MBZ] Interesting thread on possible replacement for group 49 battery


Just last Friday bought an H8 at Home Depot for $109.

Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
That was Dan's point:  the battery is cheaper at the stealer than at 
FLAPS.  I saw them at Home despot, of all places for ~$125.



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
March 1, 2017 at 7:29 AM
The thread said a 31p at NAPA was $87 vs $157 for the 49, a $70 savings.

-
Max
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] Problem with the web site?

What beautiful house? Not gonna touch the other one. I could get 
hurt that way.


Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

This is not my beautiful house!

This is not my beautiful wife!

--FT


On 2/26/17 6:22 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
Then how the heck did I get here??? 




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Re: [MBZ] w123 front headliner trim


Use contact cement. No need to clamp.

Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

It's just the formed hardboard, so I would expect that you could get some 3M 
upholstery adhesive and reglue it.  Ideally if you had a vacuum bag you could 
use it to hold everything in place. Otherwise, not sure how you would keep it 
clamped until the adhesive dries.

-D

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 27, 2017, at 5:03 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Anybody ever re-cover that piece of foam or cardboard above the sun visors?
The mbtex on mine is flapping in the breeze on one side, but I have not
looked into removing the formed foam backing. It appears to be in good
shape depite having some sort of water leak up there.

Sun visor clip gave out recently on one side also, so it is probably tine
to tackle it.




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Re: [MBZ] Problem with the web site?

Yeah I know it's been broken. That's probably why we don't get 
many new members. Not that that is such a bad thing I guess since 
any we get will be by referral only.


Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

That page has been broken for years now.

This link (from the bottom of the email) should work for new subscribers:

http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 123 armrest (WasToday's 300SEL Fun (Sunday))

Pop the plastic cover take out the screw and pull it off. Real 
easy. Don't loose any of the parts.


The other R though is a royal pain.

Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

What steps are involved in r/r the center 123 armrest?

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 4:49 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Got the Leatherique cleaned up and done.  Leather recovered well, the only
issue being that Leatherique darkens any splits or cracks.  Not a big deal,
just an appearance thing.  I’ve got a new armrest cover coming from my
upholstery guy in CA - $20 shipped.

Got the trunk badge cleaned up and installed, including painting the
accent line below the characters.  Painted the radiator badge, too.  Found
an auxiliary input cable for the Kenwood stereo that’s in it on Amazon for
$9, so that’s on the way.  Got my dealer parts order all ready to text in
tomorrow morning.  Thinking about taking Wednesday off so I can get
everything done at once - caliper, wheel bearing and flex disc among other
things.

Danged oak trees are doing their spring thing, meaning that any dark
colored car has a near permanent yellow dusting on it.  The youngest boy
had to go up to Williston Saturday and Sunday to do his SCUBA and Nitrox
qualifications in the springs, so I had him drive my car (which loved every
minute of that open highway cruising.)  I gave it a quick wash and
immediately put the car cover on it. Between the cover and being parked in
a closed garage at work it should stay pretty clean.

Cleaning up before some friends come over for dinner.

-D



On Feb 26, 2017, at 9:01 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Took the 300D out for the early morning grocery run as promised.  It was

pleased to get out and stretch its legs.

I don’t really have a lot to do with the 300SEL until I start getting

some parts.  Since it’s a nice sunny Florida day, I slathered the front
seats with some Leatherique and will let it bake.

I might drain and refill the power steering system since I have

everything I need for that.  I’ve cleaned the PS cooler that runs in front
of the radiator so I can watch it to see if it does have a leak.  Quite
honestly I don’t think it does - the junction where the hoses connect to it
look like they’ve been seeping for a long time, and I’m wondering if it’s
possible that the fluid has just been creeping down the lines.  The
connection is really buried on the left front inner fender and the clamp
screws are turned towards the top, so I’ll see if I can get in there and
tighten them up, maybe.

After the Leatherique has done its thing I might do some more interior

cleaning.  The dash is in great condition, but the driver and passenger
doors look sort of yellowed. I’m not sure if this is just aging or maybe
the car had a smoker in the past.  If it did there’s not evidence of it
that I can find.

Washed the SL500 as it needed it.  Gotta run the sweeper in the interior

and it will be good for a couple of weeks.

Going to do an inventory of future work so I can plan accordingly.

-D
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Re: [MBZ] New diff in 123TD (was Today's 300SEL Fun (so far))

You were right on Rick. It is a 2.88, says so right on the lower 
left. Should be nice for long trips. I'll know later to as I'm 
going down to Orlando for a party tonight.


Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
‎MG sez: 


‎Also put in a diff Sat before last that I got >from a junk yard out of an 84 
TD.


Might have been an '85.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1625083-w123-axle-ratios.html

Rick
  Original Message  


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Re: [MBZ] Lumber question

Try layering a piece of the new thinner cheat the consumer 3/4 
and a piece of cheating 3/8 and you might be just about right.



Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Yesterday while at Lowes we bought 23/32 osb subflooring which appeared to be too thin 
compared to the subfloor in the house. When I measured our existing floor I get 1". 
There appears to be no such thing as 1". We took it back and got the 1 1/8 which I 
figure maybe I was reading it wrong by an 8th of an inch on the measuring tape. Got it 
home cut to fit and where as the trim base boards around the rest of the room have a gap 
big enough for the previous tile and will allow the pergo to slide up under, this 
subfloor fits right up with the trim board with no room, it is obviously is just a little 
thicker than what is in the house. So our options appear to be to either leave it as is 
and use quarter round along the baseboard to secure the edge of the pergo, or we are 
going to have to go back with the smaller and I'm afraid it may be way too short compared 
to the adjacent subflooring. Wtf?

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Today's 300SEL Fun (recap)


Ah yes that was the springs.

Too bad that bar won't fit my TD. The 19 is just what I want, 
along with a front that is 4 or 5mm larger. The front you might 
could find enough people to make a run but the back I kind of doubt.


Manfred

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

They work out quite well.  This is the third group buy we’ve done in the W126 
forum at Benzworld.  The first time around people were ecstatic about the 
difference.  These are custom made for us by Heilwig, and the minimum 
production run is 15 pieces.

They’re a 19mm bar (stock is 14mm) and I’m told they really, really tighten up 
the rear of the car when it comes to cornering.

Price is around $230 shipped to anywhere in the CONUS.  There are a couple 
spares, as we typically order a few extras just in case.  I took another as I’m 
going top put one on the 300SEL.
 
You’re thinking of Lesjofers with the crappy springs.


-D



On Feb 26, 2017, at 5:32 PM, MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Let me know if they work right. Wasn't that the company that made the 
untempered junk front springs that someone put in to replace some cut springs?

Manfred

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:


Got word that my 14mm rear sway bars have arrived from Heilwig and will be 
shipping to me next week.  That will make for some nice handling on these 
barges.
I promised the 300D I would take it for the grocery run in the morning, since 
it’s feeling neglected.
Gotta go get some laundry out of the dryer….
-D

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Re: [MBZ] Problem with the web site?


Then how the heck did I get here???

I've never considered myself that exclusive, reclusive maybe is 
more like it.


Manfred

Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

it is a VERY exclusive club!  You have to have an invite to get in!


MG via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
February 26, 2017 at 4:37 PM
Yup that's what I was going to do. I just wanted to try and find out 
if a lot of people who might be interested in the list just can't 
apply because of this problem. Or if it might be a feature to limit 
the membership. :-)


Manfred



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Re: [MBZ] W126 Door Latch

That's where the big difference between the hand impact and the 
air or electric guns comes in. With the hand impact every time 
you hit with the hammer the bit is forced into the screw head and 
that alone will make it hold onto the screw much better.

those things were a required tool for working on the older bikes.

Manfred

Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Curly sez:

‎>For not a lot more, you can get a dewalt >battery impact or an air impact 
wrench.

Yes, but... if it has started to round out, an electric impact will make quick 
work of finishing the job. There are hand impacts less than fifteen bucks. I 
just picked the first in the list.

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Today's 300SEL Fun (so far)

That's what I was coming up with. Given the difference in the 
miles driven and the speed that is just about the 5.5%. I guess I 
should have taken the speedo for that also. Oh well too late now. 
At least I know what to look for.


Manfred

Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
‎MG sez: 


‎Also put in a diff Sat before last that I got >from a junk yard out of an 84 
TD.


Might have been an '85.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1625083-w123-axle-ratios.html

Rick
  Original Message  


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Re: [MBZ] I'm Channeling Ansel Adams/Edward Weston


8 out of 10... where 10 is the worst and 1 is the best no doubt.

Manfred

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/6020801431.html 


-D
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Re: [MBZ] Today's 300SEL Fun (recap)

Let me know if they work right. Wasn't that the company that made 
the untempered junk front springs that someone put in to replace 
some cut springs?


Manfred

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:


Got word that my 14mm rear sway bars have arrived from Heilwig and will be 
shipping to me next week.  That will make for some nice handling on these 
barges.

I promised the 300D I would take it for the grocery run in the morning, since 
it’s feeling neglected.

Gotta go get some laundry out of the dryer….

-D



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Re: [MBZ] W126 Door Latch


Oh yeah I forgot about that one. That works good.

Manfred

Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

I have used a hand impact, with a 6mm impact socket on a 123. I assume they are 
similar to the 126.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYDRG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1488147504sr=8-1pi=SL75_QL70keywords=hand+impact+driver


Rick
  Original Message  



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Re: [MBZ] Problem with the web site?

Yup that's what I was going to do. I just wanted to try and find 
out if a lot of people who might be interested in the list just 
can't apply because of this problem. Or if it might be a feature 
to limit the membership. :-)


Manfred

Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
Here. Send him this link. 


‎http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Rick
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Re: [MBZ] W126 Door Latch

Kroil for a while then pop the screw heads a good lick or two 
with a hammer and try again to loosen them.
Rinse and repeat and if not you could also put the hex driver in 
and hit that good and hard with a hammer. sooner or later it 
should come loose.


Worse comes to worse just drill out the head just enough for it 
to pop off, take the stop off and use a vise grip to turn what's 
left of the screw out. Without the head they usually come out 
real easy.


Manfred

Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
I tried to replace the driver's door striker on my 82 SD (same symptoms and cause) but I Couldn't get the screws lose.  I had started to deform the hex socket in some of the screws so I quit before I really buggered them.  
Is there a trick to this?




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Re: [MBZ] Today's 300SEL Fun (so far)

I just did the right front outer wheel bearing on my TD 2 weeks 
ago. I was hearing a rumbling noise, first only on left turns and 
then after about a week started hearing it on straight line also. 
Took the cap off, popped the bearing out and sure enough saw 
metal flakes in the grease. Found out why when I got it cleaned 
off. Made in Mexico. I remembered then about when I put the 
bearing kits on there about 10k miles ago I was thinking that 
wasn't very good. The other side is still OK for now but I did 
order one for there to be done when needed.


Also put in a diff Sat before last that I got from a junk yard 
out of an 84 TD. Don't know if they had a different ration or if 
the previous owner had put one in there from some other car but 
my TD now goes 5mph faster on the GPS then indicated by the 
speedo at 65. Before they had been in agreement. No tags on the 
either diff.


Does anyone know if the report of the original equipment from the 
dealer would include what the ratio was?


I need to find a speedo that works right with this diff because I 
did notice that the engine is a bit quieter when at high speed 
though I must say that it did loose just a little bit on the 
acceleration from a stop.


I will find out if I get any better mileage. The speed and 
distance traveled between the GPS and the speedo say about 5.5% 
added to the odometer should give the right miles traveledso I'll 
see what happens.


Manfred

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

OMG.  I have never had an O2 sensor be so stubborn.

After nearly 45 minutes of everything from pounding on the O2 sensor socket 
with a three pound hammer to a ViceGrips and pipe wrench with a 3 foot piece of 
pipe on it, the danged thing finally started to turn.  From there it was a 
ViceGrips and lots of Kroil, turning every 1/8 turn or so that I could get, 
backing off, soaking with Kroil, then turning again.

Little bugger finally came out.

I will be paying for this tomorrow, I’m sure.

So while I grab some lunch and give my upper body a break, I’ll let things air 
out and be ready for the new O2 sensor.

Some other potentially good news:

Owner said the right front tire (nearly new Michelins) had a bad belt.  You 
definitely got the “rump-rump-rump” thing from the right front, but I was 
wondering if it could possibly be a bad wheel bearing.  I figured not, since 
whenever I’ve heard a bad wheel bearing it’s always been a grinding sound.

While the front end was off the ground I spun the front right wheel.  I could 
hear the “rump-rump-rump” sound.

So if I’m living right it’s got a bad wheel bearing.  Maybe there’s just one 
roller that’s bad or has a bad/flat spot on it?  Let’s hope so.

-D



On Feb 25, 2017, at 10:30 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

So back under the car I go to soak the O2 sensor with some Kroil before I try 
to remove it…

More interesting stuff:

PO had said that there was a switch on the transmission his indie disconnected 
that controlled shifts based on temperature.  That is, it delayed shifts until 
the car got up to operating temperature, or so he recalled being told.  Since I 
don’t have a lot of experience with W126 gassers (my last one was in the late 
90s with the Deathmobile) I took his word for it and figured I would find out.

So as I’m looking around the transmission area after finishing with the Kroil, 
I see a wire with one of the O ring seal connectors on it, like on a brake pad 
wear sensor.

Hmm.

I look around, and see a black block bolted to the flywheel housing that a 
couple of hard lines are going to from the transmission. There’s a matching 
socket on it, for sure, that fits this mystery connector.

I got the number off of the part and ran it through the online EPC.  Nothing.  
???

So I google the number, and lo and behold, it’s a kickdown solenoid. I do some 
digging in another online parts database and sure enough, that’s it.  But - 
it’s NLA.  Poop.  So I’m guessing this car won’t have kickdown capabilities.  
At least not for now.  I’m not going to reconnect it just yet, as I don’t want 
to complicate things.

Picture of the kickdown solenoid: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u568f15xtj8k7a8/IMG_1380.jpg?dl=0

Picture of the cleaned off but leaking PS cooler: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lzv02lvblda41co/IMG_1381.jpg?dl=0

Back out to the garage to see if the Kroil has worked its magic on the O2 
sensor….

-D




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