For peace of mind go with a good used one or a new one from Rusty.
Neal
Fmiser wrote:
I know about split boots. I've looked at the manual and an axle shaft
and know that I would rather not dis-assemble a joint to put new boots
on.
So that brings me to this product.
To remove the tumbler move the key to about 2 o'clock position. A thick
paper clip will free the lock to allow you to unscrew the tumbler. I
learned that my tumbler was not the problem; the lock was faulty.
Neal
1981 300CD
Tom Hargrave wrote:
Rusty Cullins.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
That's right. The paper clip wire will unlock the tumbler and permit
you to unscrew it. The plastic trim ring can be removed, and may come
loose when you turn the tumbler. You may find the tumbler ( the black
metal + key) a bit snug to turn so careful turn with a wrench might be
needed to
Well now that my replacement driveaxle has been performing wonderfully
for several weeks a new problem has reared its head: steering /ignition
lock. It had started recently, but last night no go- key would not turn
until I jacked up the front end and I could free it. But this morning
when I
I apologize friends. I forgot to say that my steering lock problem is
with a 1981 300CD.
Neal
Fine
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Need to make sure everything is back online.
Well list I want to thank all who had great suggestions and admit I'm
feeling a little stupid. When you get the same noise before you replace
a driveaxle and then it returns it's best to assume that the new
driveaxle has failed. Yes, that's apparently the problem. My inde
listened then
I bought a rebuilt from Rusty.
Neal
Jim Cathey wrote:
When you get the same noise before you replace
a driveaxle and then it returns it's best to assume that the new
driveaxle has failed. Yes, that's apparently the problem.
So was your replacement half-axle new, used, or rebuilt?
years, told me getting good rebuits is a problem for them and
one of them has been through 3 sets. Given the past discussions of
these driveaxles it appears they have become almost too common to keep
us happy with the 123s.
Neal
John Berryman wrote:
On May 19, 2006, at 7:38 AM, Neal Kramarcy
Barry,
Both rotors were replaced at the same time and only the left has been
a problem. Last night I switched rotors and on my ususal drive to work
got the same results on the left side. I dropped the car at my local
shop and asked for someone to give it drive until they hear the noise.
Since I'm stumped after all the manipulations I dropped the car at my
inde to test drive and maybe their trained ears can define the problem.
Since switching the rotors didn't change anything I looking at all
possibilities.
Neal
John Berryman wrote:
On May 17, 2006, at 10:22 AM, [EMAIL
Thanks for the help list. But even without the parking brake shoes the
noise continues. I can hear the rubbing of the pads on the rotor and am
more convinced that the rotor is the problem; it just seems too loose.
Maybe wheel bolts are too long to give a tight fit, but I really snug
them
will
tell you if the problem is in the brakes at all.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Neal Kramarcy
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 7:53 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rear brake part 2
Thanks for the help list
I know this is strange. And for years I had no problems with the rear
brakes or noise. This car had been used by my ex until last year and I
rarely drove it unless to tend to a repair job. But in the last year,
after the rotors were replaced, this noise appeared. Since I thought it
a bad
Hello list,
I need some help from your collective wisdom. My problem is strange.
For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left
rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such
that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor
Jim,
I thought it migh be parking brake related and checked the adjustments
a couple of times with no change. The indie suggested that a flap in
the old brake hose could cause an interruption in the brake fluid and
set up the condition, but the new hose only slowed the return of the
noise.
Thanks Marshall. My thoughts have drifted back to the emergancy brake
pads and I've been thinking of removing that set and giving it a test,
since the problem has been pretty predictable.
Neal
Marshall Booth wrote:
Neal Kramarcy wrote:
Hello list,
I need some help from your collective
Jim,
I've already replaced the caliper and got no change. None of the
mounting bolts look too long, the emergancy brake is used regularly and
is snug at about 4 clicks. The puzzle is that it occurs regularly after
a standard set of highway miles(10-12) and after an interval of 8-10 hrs
Thanks Marshall, I'll look at it tonight.
Neal
Marshall Booth wrote:
Neal Kramarcy wrote:
Jim,
I've already replaced the caliper and got no change. None of the
mounting bolts look too long, the emergancy brake is used regularly and
is snug at about 4 clicks. The puzzle
Kevin,
I bent a pair of 14mm for the valve adjustments and have adequate room
for #5 cyl (firewall). There are very short wrenches available (Sears
has set 10-14mm) so that may help. Good luck.
Neal
Rich Thomas wrote:
Did you make some bent wrenches?
--R
kevin kraly wrote:
Hello
Bill,
I've had a similar strange occurrence with my '81 300CD: a light
metal on metal sound, brake sound, but no discernible effect on the way
the car drove. It's been happening for the last 8 mos and initally
thought a bad drive axle ( which I did subsequently replace when boots
ripped
Ned,
My 1980 300TD has a manual sunroof. Works great, locks in place.
Neal
1980 300TD 375K, but getting tired
ned kleinhenz wrote:
Doesn't your TD have a manual sunroof?
The 1980 300TD - NO Sunroof. Is that unusual?
Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
Hello folks,
I've a noisy drive axle in my '81 300CD and decided to replace with a
rebuild from Rusty. The problem I've run into is driving out the wheel
end of the drive axle; separating the differential end was no problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank,
Neal
like a drift
or something and a hammer, a couple of good whacks and it will pop right
out. Outer end has to come out and down before you can get the diff end
out.
Neal Kramarcy wrote:
Hello folks,
I've a noisy drive axle in my '81 300CD and decided to replace with a
rebuild from Rusty
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