@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line
In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are.
The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
held in place to corrode these lines over time
Patch or replace are both OK, as long as the line is decent except for
the spots you are patching. If you replace it, or splice in new pipe,
get some that isn't zinc galvanized on the inside, diesel and zinc
don't mix well.
___
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For new
You might also consider getting a 25' roll of copper tubing, it's easier to
hand form.
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You might also consider getting a 25' roll of copper tubing, it's
easier to
hand form.
Diesel eats copper. Don't do this.
-- Jim
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Gentlemen, thank you as always for your sage adivice.
Tom, where would I be able to buy Oetiker clamps?
Thanks,
Fred
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You might also consider getting a 25' roll of
copper tubing, it's
easier to
hand form.
Diesel eats copper. Don't do this.
You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the vacuum created by
the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with Nylon-6 tubing
from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing to join the nylon to
the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering both pieces and using
spring clamps. I
clamps.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Fred Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:26 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line
In replacing my rear
I would be able to replace the complete line with
Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic. I'd prefer
this to patching.
--- dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the
vacuum created by
the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with
Nylon-6
I agree with the tech. Gump has rubber lines connecting to the solid
lines at the tank, and then more rubber to make the bend up to the
engine from under the car. No low tech return line rubber, but
hardier stuff like the cigar hose is made of. If it is exposed to
the elements in a
You still have to do something with the ends. You can order nylon that
will fit snugly inside the existing flexible tubing at the gas tank
and lift pump - the same way the current metal tubing does.
I use a larger size tubing and did the overlap thing with the existing
hose, rather than fit inside
Dave, I pass by a Harbor Freight on the way home and
will look tonight. I was also thinking about the
overlap thing.
While I don't do WVO, I do get free 3-5 gallon pails
of vegetable oil occasionally, food service business.
I add a gallon or two at each fill up to stretch the
$3.20/gal.
Maybe that's the answer.
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
1990 300D 2.5t 150K miles
Wickford, RI
Washington plate FAITH 2. Looked like a Parson.
RLE
**
See what's new at http://www.aol.com
You mean Gawd meddles in the affairs of compression ignition?
Away, ye cursed rod!
Mac
on 9/24/07 7:42, Dwight E. Giles, Jr at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Maybe that's the answer.
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
1990 300D 2.5t 150K miles
Wickford, RI
An actual running 140 diesel seen.
Possibly a recipient of a new powerplant, courtesy of Daimler Benz
guarantee largesse?
No other possible answer. Washington plate FAITH 2. Looked like a Parson.
RLE
**
See what's new at http://www.aol.com
I replaced that last August so it should still be OK, right?
Ummm, sure? (Not!) Test, grasshopper, and you shall know.
What's the useful life of the vacuum reservoir itself?
Nearly forever. The rubber stopper is the most fragile
part, and you can always goop it a bit if you suspect it.
--
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I replaced that last August so it should still be OK, right?
Any replacement part has a chance to be defective right out of the
box, or be flawed seriously enough to last only a short time.
Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230
I replaced that last August so it should still be OK, right?
On 7/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
While someone is at it, I need to trouble shoot the vacuum locks on an
85
300 CD. ALL the elements (both doors, trunk lock, gas filler door)
have been
replaced so it's something
What's the useful life of the vacuum reservoir itself?
On 7/26/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I replaced that last August so it should still be OK, right?
Any replacement part has a chance to be defective right out of the
box, or be
While someone is at it, I need to trouble shoot the vacuum locks on an
85
300 CD. ALL the elements (both doors, trunk lock, gas filler door)
have been
replaced so it's something else pretty major... The vacuum poops out
in
about 10 hrs.
My experience is that the vacuum switch in the
While someone is at it, I need to trouble shoot the vacuum locks on an 85
300 CD. ALL the elements (both doors, trunk lock, gas filler door) have been
replaced so it's something else pretty major... The vacuum poops out in
about 10 hrs.
On 7/25/07, Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Now you
Whee is it [reservoir?] on the coupe?
Dunno. On a sedan it's above the fuel tank.
-- Jim
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Whee is it on the coupe?
On 7/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I replaced that last August so it should still be OK, right?
Ummm, sure? (Not!) Test, grasshopper, and you shall know.
What's the useful life of the vacuum reservoir itself?
Nearly forever. The rubber stopper is
Now you know why Kevin had more than the usual trouble
finding a vacuum hose that got knocked loose on his 300SD.
Mitch.
Believe it or not, I don't know which one of us, me or my dad, has the best
chance of finding the hose and getting it connected properly again! The car
is out at his place,
Does anybody have a writeup on subframe mounts? My 190D needs 'em and I was
thinking of doing them myself. Good excuse to buy a floorjack I think.
-Curt
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 16:26:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again
To: Mercedes
where the wires connect. Very weird. A/C works OK, I am wondering if
this is some sort of halfass bypass for an inop switch/sensor that
would
necessitate venting the system to replace. HMMM.
Sounds like it. There are usually two sensors, one pressure
sensor that cuts off the compressor
PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Subframe mounts, as others have stated.
This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive
job.
A bit of brute
Rich Thomas wrote:
Looking over the new 300SD yesterday, I see these two wires, looks like
they are coming from the A/C drier? pressure sensor (or something),
which is behind the LF headlight, that are not connected to anything.
But then the wire they are supposed to connect to, is
Curt Raymond wrote:
Does anybody have a writeup on subframe mounts? My 190D needs 'em and I was
thinking of doing them myself. Good excuse to buy a floorjack I think.
-Curt
Rear subframe mounts on a 201/124 are much more difficult for the DIYer
than on 123/126s.
Marshall
--
Marshall
My bad, new car -- it is an 84. The thing that is bodged to the hose
looks like a temp sensor of some sort (almost like the water temp sensor
that screws into the manifold on my old GM cars!). If so, it is sorta
measuring temp on that hose fitting. hmmm.
The aux fan runs, I will have to see
On Fri, Jun 29, 2007 at 12:52:40PM -0400, Marshall Booth wrote:
Curt Raymond wrote:
Does anybody have a writeup on subframe mounts? My 190D needs 'em and I was
thinking of doing them myself. Good excuse to buy a floorjack I think.
-Curt
Rear subframe mounts on a 201/124 are much more
Rich Thomas wrote:
My bad, new car -- it is an 84. The thing that is bodged to the hose
looks like a temp sensor of some sort (almost like the water temp sensor
that screws into the manifold on my old GM cars!). If so, it is sorta
measuring temp on that hose fitting. hmmm.
The aux fan
If you have the tool, you can somewhat easily do it in a day. And yes, my
201 lived in massachsetts for years. I actually had to replace the entire
rear subframe due to rust. Surprisingly, this and the two front LCAs got rid of
most of it.
You'll need a floor jack, jack stands, some really big
do it myself I need to wait until a maintenance period (ie a time
when I don't need the car for awhile) before it goes to the Indy. Is this
something dangerous or can it wait?
-Curt
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 10:00:07 -0700
From: Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again
I'm trying to get the service records from the PO, if his sister who was
cleaning out the parents' house has not thrown them out -- anyway, the
radiator looks to be newish, and the rest of the car was very well
maintained, and it does not run hot (and it is HOT here), so maybe it is
just some
Rich Thomas wrote:
I'm trying to get the service records from the PO, if his sister who was
cleaning out the parents' house has not thrown them out -- anyway, the
radiator looks to be newish, and the rest of the car was very well
maintained, and it does not run hot (and it is HOT here), so
Wonder why they did not change out the sensor then and bodged that thing
up? I'll have to have a go at it.
Thanks
--R
Marshall Booth wrote:
Rich Thomas wrote:
I'm trying to get the service records from the PO, if his sister who was
cleaning out the parents' house has not thrown them
So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit squatty, and wheels look
like maybe they have some
excess camber? Or are they supposed to be like that? Driving the car
on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a tad, I'm wo(a)ndering
if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts
Subframe mounts, at least, and maybe/probably the trailing arm bushings too.
At 12:25 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit squatty, and wheels look
like maybe they have some
excess camber? Or are they supposed to be like that? Driving the car
on the highway at
Subframe mounts, as others have stated.
This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive job.
A bit of brute force, but if you plan in advance and
soak everything well with penetrating lube you'll be
fine.
Dan
--- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Subframe mounts, at least, and
OK, guess that one will be one for a future effort as no time now.
Thanks...
--R
LWB250 wrote:
Subframe mounts, as others have stated.
This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive job.
A bit of brute force, but if you plan in advance and
soak everything well with penetrating lube
You can patch things along a while by putting some twist-in spring
spacers for a while. It will take 2-3 for each spring. This will
reduce the tire wear on the inside.
Loren
BTDT
At 08:02 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
OK, guess that one will be one for a future effort as no time now.
Thanks...
Interesting. I do not see any tire wear, I noticed the noticeable
camber as the car was going down the street. It just looked a bit too
much, but maybe I am being too paranoid about it since this is a new
car. Put that with what seemed to be a bit of floaty on the highway at
speed. Did a
So on the new 300SD the rear wheels seem to be a bit squatty, maybe some
excess camber? Or are they supposed to be like that? Driving the car
on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a tad, I'm wo(a)ndering
if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts needing replacement,
or
It's an '83 (sorry the subject still said '79!
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266k miles, Ursula
Just got a call from the guy selling the car. Turns out it is a 1985 300SD,
159k miles. He says the interior is pretty good, but needs cleaning and the
windows don't work exactly right. It is green with a green interior. My main
interest in the car is the transmission, which he says is
BillR wrote:
VIN is WDBCB20C3FA094583
I'd appreciate knowing what that shows if someone will run it for me..
I don't have a carfax account but just buy the car already!!! Who
cares what the history on a $250 car is? Well... I wouldn't be to
worried about it anyway ;)
John
.
BillR
- Original Message -
From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
BillR wrote:
VIN is WDBCB20C3FA094583
I'd appreciate knowing what that shows if someone
IIRC, the torque converter to crankshaft centering pin is larger on
the '85 than the earlier 617 engine/tranny combinations. If I'm
remembering correctly, the torque converter from the $250 car won't
fit your engine. Hopefully, someone with direct experience will chime
in here --
--
OK Don,
BillR wrote:
You are correct on that count. I'll actually be putting more weight on the
knowledge from the list about the possibility of a transmission swap.
My thought is that you may want to use the existing TQ with the new tranny.
I'm not sure how you'd clean/flush it, but it should be
The 85 tranny will not work in a 81
Report Run Date: 02/28/2007
Vehicle Description: WDBCB20C3FA094583
TitleCheck: No Record Reported to AutoCheck
Problem Check: No Record Reported to AutoCheck
Odometer Check: Record(s) Reported to AutoCheck
Vehicle Information: Record(s) Reported to
If that car was anywhere near me, I would have it parked in my driveway by
now. It would go nicely with the '83.
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300sD 266K miles, Ursula
know what that would be. I'll take a look and a
camera. Anyone interested?
BillR
Jacksonville FL
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD
: Allen D. Ringgold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 8:00 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
Just got a call from the guy selling the car. Turns out it is a 1985
300SD, 159k miles. He says the interior is pretty good, but needs
cleaning and the windows don't work exactly right
Message -
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Allen Ringgold' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Allen D. Ringgold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 8:00 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
Just got a call from the guy selling the car. Turns
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 8:00 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
Just got a call from the guy selling the car. Turns out it is a 1985
300SD, 159k miles. He says the interior is pretty good, but needs
cleaning and the windows don't work exactly right. It is green
Also 1985 was the first year for ABS
James Zavesky
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 11:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
Bill - there are a lot
for ABS
James Zavesky
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 11:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
Bill - there are a lot of improvements between '81
Fehlauer
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 11:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD for $250
Bill - there are a lot of improvements between '81 and '85 on the 126
SD,
so that you would get some neat stuff if you kept the '85 and used the '81
for parts. The obvious key is rust
Thanks Marshall and Bob.
Found this site, http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm complete with
pictures, which details the steps to check the fuse and plugs.
Martin
Marshall Booth wrote:
carbucks wrote:
Hello all,
Looking for some list wisdom.
What does it mean when the glow plug
Hello all,
Looking for some list wisdom.
What does it mean when the glow plug light won't go out?
My 85 300SD light often stays lit until the car starts. I wait the usual
number of seconds (I have another 300SD), before starting it.
Lately the light will come back on after the car has been
@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD -- Glow plug lights don't always go out
Hello all,
Looking for some list wisdom.
What does it mean when the glow plug light won't go out?
My 85 300SD light often stays lit until the car starts. I wait the usual
number
carbucks wrote:
Hello all,
Looking for some list wisdom.
What does it mean when the glow plug light won't go out?
My 85 300SD light often stays lit until the car starts. I wait the usual
number of seconds (I have another 300SD), before starting it.
Lately the light will come back on after
Dumb question: Which wire is it? The only likely-looking candidate on
the 5-part block on under the intake tube isn't kicking the starter
on.
This has to have been asked before, 'cept I can't find any info!
Tony Wirtel
'85 300SD...adjusting valves
I'd like to say usual disclaimers blah blah blah but, it's my car!
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/266674708.html
Have more pictures too at
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p12/tonywirtel/?start=0
This heap just rescued my family when my wife's Passat couldn't manage
but the first of
Heap? Looks and sounds like a great car to me. I think you could charge
more. Wish I could buy it for winter driving. Would have to use block heater
here though. BTW, how do you know the engine was replaced at 53k?
Brian
On 1/25/07, Tony Wirtel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'd like to say usual
Heap? Looks and sounds like a great car to me. I think you could charge
more. Wish I could buy it for winter driving. Would have to use block heater
here though. BTW, how do you know the engine was replaced at 53k?
Brian
Brian- the engine was replaced in 1999 with a junkyard engine- have a
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300sd FS near Philadelphia
The only thing worse would have been E-torx heads!
-j.
-- Original message --
From: Tony Wirtel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Because of this car, I can say I've done MB ball
Need some list wisdom about a problem I'm having with my 84 300SD.
My wife was driving to work with most the electrical services on
(wipers, lights, fan, radio). The radio died first and then the
wipers.No alternator light came on. She couldn't see because of the
heavy rain, pulled over to
Completed that job today (the rain has stopped for the moment). When I
started her up, all three emergency brake, alt and brake pad lights as
well as the fuel reserve light stayed on even after the engine started.
They would go out if I revved the engine, only to return at idle. Drove
the car
Definitely check the glow plug relay! It will draw more current with
the headlamps on than the alternator can put out -- I replaced the
alternator in my Volvo for the same reason, battery kept going dead at
night. Finally nearly to stranded, but hit a bump and the headlights
came back on!
a bad experience at one shop they blame them all.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 9:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD Alternator mystery
Definitely check
List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD Alternator mystery
Completed that job today (the rain has stopped for the moment). When I
started her up, all three emergency brake, alt and brake pad lights as
well as the fuel reserve light stayed
Your new alternator is bad.
carbucks wrote:
Need some list wisdom about a problem I'm having with my 84 300SD.
My wife was driving to work with most the electrical services on
(wipers, lights, fan, radio). The radio died first and then the
wipers.No alternator light came on. She couldn't
My 83 300SD has been inclined to over speed when shifting from second
to third under light load when not fully warmed up. It has done this since
I got it about 30,000 miles ago. I have messed with the modulator
adjustment and tried switching to Mobil 1 ATF. Both these actions helped
-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.7.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes
UDG - Joop Schmeitz wrote:
I haven't used my W116 300SD for a while.
Started it today. It started right on but stopted after 15-20 seconds. Won't start again.
I had a look at the small filter just besides the hand pump. It is clear and carries diesel.
I handpumped for a while
PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD - 85 - Throttle linkage
one of the pivots spun 180 deg around
Did not think of that, will investigate ...
George Larribeau
- Original Message -
From: Steve
After I adjusted the valves on my SD I found that the throttle linkage was
pushing the pump throttle lever a bit causing high idle (950 - 1000). I tried
to be careful when removing the linkage and replacing it. In an attempt to get
back to where it was. Is it possible to do this.Am I wasiting
You've put something back wrong, or something is caught (or binding) on
another piece. I've had this happen on top of the valve cover, where you (I
assume) have two pivots where multiple linkages join.
Make sure the pivots are not catching. Also, it's actually possible for the
linkages to work
one of the pivots spun 180 deg around
Did not think of that, will investigate ...
George Larribeau
- Original Message -
From: Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD - 85
fill try to take a picture of
it this weekend .
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD 1985 Vacuum problems
Booboo-ed on vacuum line from brake booster
??
George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD 1985 Vacuum problems
I first start driving. 'But of course' the door locks work
Booboo-ed on vacuum line from brake booster to vacuum pump, snapped
off one
of the black vacuum taps. ( it is the one with a single line, not the
one
with the 4-way connector. ). First I tried teeing it into the one with
the 4
way connector - ps! That did not work. I don't know what this
On Mar 23, 2006, at 3:04 PM, George Larribeau wrote:
Hi
Is there a good guide on checking out the vacuum system on my 126
oiler? It has been flakey for a while but as of late I need to rev
the engine a bit after I have removed the key to get it to kill.
The brakes are a bit hard when
Hi
Is there a good guide on checking out the vacuum system on my 126 oiler? It has
been flakey for a while but as of late I need to rev the engine a bit after I
have removed the key to get it to kill. The brakes are a bit hard when I first
start driving. 'But of course' the door locks work
Kaleb helped me out on another list (before I found this one again) on a
massive oil leak on my just purchased 85 300SD. He correctly identified
the hole in the oil cooler. Sourced out an upper oil cooler line at
about half the dealer's asking price. It arrived today, but have just
spent the
Have you jacked the engine up a bit from the mounts? Also, it's easier
to start the threads on both ends before tightening them down.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
Haven't tried that yet. So I need to undo the mounts and then jack it up?
Thanks,
Martin
Jeff Zedic wrote:
Have you jacked the engine up a bit from the mounts? Also, it's easier
to start the threads on both ends before tightening them down.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
carbucks wrote:
Haven't tried that yet. So I need to undo the mounts and then jack it up?
Don't jack it up too far unless you unhook the engine shock too, but I
don't think you will get the lines in without at least undoing the left
mount and raising the engine a bit.
It makes it easier, yes
Thanks to all who replied. Came across this posting in alt.auto.mercedes
that confirms you have to raise the engine.
Martin
From: Russ Maki Russ Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thurs, Jun 29 2000 12:00 am
Groups: alt.auto.mercedes
On my '82 300cd, the lower line has to come out first to
You will have to remove the motor mount bolt from under the car, lift
the engine a little, then remove the motor mount arm on that side.
carbucks wrote:
Kaleb helped me out on another list (before I found this one again) on a
massive oil leak on my just purchased 85 300SD. He correctly
Speaking from experience on removing motor mount bolts. Clean the bolt so
that it is free of any dirt or other residue. Get the proper size hex
wrench in a socket drive. Use some taps on the wrench to break the bolt
loose. You don't want to strip the head of the bolt out.
Alan Duff
Knoxville,
Parts Car
300SD 1978
I want to sell a 1978 300 SD with many newer parts including a 30,000 or
so mi bought-from-Mercedes complete engine.
Car will drive. Leaking oil at transmission. Complete service records
available.
Car lives in Las Vegas Area.
-barnaby
Questions, offers please.
--
No
If they drove it around floored, it must have been going 110mph or more.
My '82 300SD has a published top speed of 102mph
Dan
--
Dan Weeks
Freelance Writing and Photography
515/279-4825
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Oh, THAT was the other thing that sounded off.. He said he was cruising
around 80-90MPH and at around 4100RPM's and that was at just about
redline.. I thought we were just discussing the redline being at 5K, which
would still be a ways off in my mind...
Speed at RPMs sounds about right to me.
Steve MacSween wrote:
Odd problem with my w126 300sd... this is a problem being made worse by cold
temps, but it's doing it even on warmer days when it was starting fine (even
before I adjusted the valves).
When you turn the key (after two glow cycles), it kicks strongly and fires
briefly, then
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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Steve MacSween
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 2:05 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] 300sd intermittent hard start problem
Odd problem with my w126 300sd... this is a problem being made worse by cold
temps, but it's doing
BZZTT WRONG ANSWER! They changed the engine from 82 to
83.line is routed differently. Pictures can be tanken to prove my
point.
On Thu, 13 Oct 2005 19:33:46 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
yes
Luther Gulseth wrote:
The left transmission
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-SD-1984-Blue-300SD-Parts-car-or-restorer_W0QQitemZ4583281750QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D,
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