Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-23 Thread dave walton
If you replace everything everyone tells you to, you will end up with
a completely new engine.

There are length spec's for the bolts in WIS. If they exceed the spec
they have stretched and need to be replaced. If not they are good to
use again.

-Dave Walton


On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 So when I go to put it back together I do need to use new bolts?  I wondered
 about that.

  Peter Frederick wrote:

 
  Yes, it does.  Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.
 
  Actual sequence depends on the gasket.  Some are two torque steps, some
 are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10 min
 settling time between.  That was the case on the 603, anyway.  Use new
 bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they don't hold and
 it blows again.
 
  you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the
 center.
 
  Peter
 
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  95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140.  Im down to 
pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts.  I 
have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the 
WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those out with 
this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool.  
What do you guys think?  Also, is there a certain order to removing the 
head bolts?  WIS does not say anything about it.  Damn, If I cant get 
those pins out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till 
and wont be able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but
 the WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those out
 with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor
 tool.   What do you guys think?  

Does the shop manual specify a particular type of tool?

What is the, other type of extractor tool?




 Also, is there a certain order to removing the head bolts?  WIS does not
 say anything about it. 

It wouldn't hurt to loosen them in the opposite manner specified for
torquing them upon installation.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in  
fact the one specified in the manual.  Works great.


Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening.  I've done that  
for 30 years or more now, it's pretty much the standard way to do  
things.


There is a specified way to remove the cam, though, and you should  
follow it.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Books says side hammer type or screw type can be used.

Book does not say what order to tighten bolts, only the sequence of each 
bolt.  IE torq to this spec, then to this, and so on, but not which bolt 
to do first, 2nd, and so on.


Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

  

I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but
the WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those out
with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor
tool.   What do you guys think?  



Does the shop manual specify a particular type of tool?

What is the, other type of extractor tool?




  

Also, is there a certain order to removing the head bolts?  WIS does not
say anything about it. 



It wouldn't hurt to loosen them in the opposite manner specified for
torquing them upon installation.


Craig

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95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I already removed the cam in the specified manner.

Peter Frederick wrote:
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in 
fact the one specified in the manual.  Works great.


Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening.  I've done that 
for 30 years or more now, it's pretty much the standard way to do things.


There is a specified way to remove the cam, though, and you should 
follow it.


Peter

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread dave walton
I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply
pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to
apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole
that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others.

Looking for tightening sequence.

If you have a dial gauge, you can check the amount that the piston top
protrudes from the block for each cylinder to see if any rods are
bent. Put a small bar across the cylinder opening and set to zero.
Rotate crank to get highest reading from piston.

MAKE SURE you remove vacuum pump or be prepared for the timing chain
to lurch forward as you rotate crank. Could take a finger off if your
hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time.

-Dave Walton

On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140.  Im down to
 pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts.  I
 have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the
 WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those out with
 this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool.  What
 do you guys think?  Also, is there a certain order to removing the head
 bolts?  WIS does not say anything about it.  Damn, If I cant get those pins
 out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be
 able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest.

  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread dave walton
My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process
list, but no window appears.

The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing
with numbers in circles showing the order. About half the numbers are
legible.

As I recall there were 2 torque steps, then you turn the bolt 90
degrees to finish it off.

-Dave Walton


On 8/22/09, dave walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
 I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply
  pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to
  apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole
  that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others.

  Looking for tightening sequence.

  If you have a dial gauge, you can check the amount that the piston top
  protrudes from the block for each cylinder to see if any rods are
  bent. Put a small bar across the cylinder opening and set to zero.
  Rotate crank to get highest reading from piston.

  MAKE SURE you remove vacuum pump or be prepared for the timing chain
  to lurch forward as you rotate crank. Could take a finger off if your
  hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time.


  -Dave Walton


  On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
   So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140.  Im down to
   pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts.  I
   have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the
   WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those out with
   this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool.  
 What
   do you guys think?  Also, is there a certain order to removing the head
   bolts?  WIS does not say anything about it.  Damn, If I cant get those pins
   out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be
   able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest.
  
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
   87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
   240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
  
  
___
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Peter Frederick
Actually, it does, but not by number.  I'll dig it up later.  Center  
out, alternating sides.


Big pain, really takes two people to do, one to work the wrench and  
one to keep track of the bolts.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea, thats it, but I guess it does not matter what order you do the 
bolts though.


dave walton wrote:

My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process
list, but no window appears.

The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing
with numbers in circles showing the order. About half the numbers are
legible.

As I recall there were 2 torque steps, then you turn the bolt 90
degrees to finish it off.

-Dave Walton


On 8/22/09, dave walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
  

I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply
 pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to
 apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole
 that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others.

 Looking for tightening sequence.

 If you have a dial gauge, you can check the amount that the piston top
 protrudes from the block for each cylinder to see if any rods are
 bent. Put a small bar across the cylinder opening and set to zero.
 Rotate crank to get highest reading from piston.

 MAKE SURE you remove vacuum pump or be prepared for the timing chain
 to lurch forward as you rotate crank. Could take a finger off if your
 hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time.


 -Dave Walton


 On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
  So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140.  Im down to
  pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts.  I
  have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the
  WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those out with
  this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool.  What
  do you guys think?  Also, is there a certain order to removing the head
  bolts?  WIS does not say anything about it.  Damn, If I cant get those pins
  out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be
  able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest.
 
   --
   Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
  240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
   To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Peter Frederick

Yes, it does.  Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.

Actual sequence depends on the gasket.  Some are two torque steps,  
some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10  
min settling time between.  That was the case on the 603, anyway.   
Use new bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they  
don't hold and it blows again.


you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the  
center.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
So when I go to put it back together I do need to use new bolts?  I 
wondered about that.


Peter Frederick wrote:

Yes, it does.  Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.

Actual sequence depends on the gasket.  Some are two torque steps, 
some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10 
min settling time between.  That was the case on the 603, anyway.  Use 
new bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they don't 
hold and it blows again.


you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the 
center.


Peter

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Benz Hogs
When I did the head on my SDL, there was a specific pattern given in the 
manual.  Same pattern for both tightening and loosening.


Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140.  Im down to 
pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts.  
I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but 
the WILL NOT budge at all.  I have never had problems getting those 
out with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of 
extractor tool.  What do you guys think?  Also, is there a certain 
order to removing the head bolts?  WIS does not say anything about 
it.  Damn, If I cant get those pins out with the tool I have, I will 
have to order the other till and wont be able to get the head off till 
next weekend at the earliest.




___
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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Peter Frederick
That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living  
working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the  
second time.  Far less hassle than another head RR, too.


I had no choice, anyway, one broke off at the rear where the head  
gasket was blown into the bolt hole on #6.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Benz Hogs
I measured the head bolts and all of mine were on the short end of the 
manual recommended range.  30,000mi+ later and the engine still runs 
like a top.


Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
So when I go to put it back together I do need to use new bolts?  I 
wondered about that.


Peter Frederick wrote:

Yes, it does.  Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.

Actual sequence depends on the gasket.  Some are two torque steps, 
some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10 
min settling time between.  That was the case on the 603, anyway.  
Use new bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they 
don't hold and it blows again.


you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the 
center.


Peter




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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

new bolts are a little over $70 from Rusty.

Peter Frederick wrote:
That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living 
working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the 
second time.  Far less hassle than another head RR, too.


I had no choice, anyway, one broke off at the rear where the head 
gasket was blown into the bolt hole on #6.


Peter

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140

2009-08-22 Thread OK Don
We used new bolts on the '87 603 head - Iprobably still have the old ones if
you want to measure them all (yours and mine) and use the best of the bunch.
However, I'd just order a new set from Rusty with the gasket set.

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 9:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 new bolts are a little over $70 from Rusty.


 --
 OK Don
 Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos


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