Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

That being said, I have a traditional style "airtight" stove, IIRC it is "Earth Stove" brand. It utilizes convection vents on either side, and is fully lined with firebrick. My home is around 2,700 sq. ft. and has a heat pump, but I run the stove to supplement the heat during sub-freezing temps.

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

Pellet stoves do burn very clean, and they're very efficient. One 40# bag of pellets will heat the beach cabin for 24 hours. (40# of firewood will barely get you through the morning.) Their piddly little flame, with no coals, is not aesthetically very pleasing, though. The wood stove is

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. > I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to > look at. Any recommendations? I put in Quadra-fire inserts to replace the ratty old inserts in our house. They worked very well, had

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

There was a scheme a coupla years ago to build a pellet plant around here to utilize the trees that couldn't go to the pulp plant or sawmills.  A good part of SC is in managed pine forests so there is a large supply of timber for whatever uses.  Most of it was going to be shipped to europe it

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

> They require less attention than a traditional woodstove and utilize waste > products of lumbermills. Two comments: 1) They require power to operate, so one major use of such a stove, heat when the power is out, is compromised. (Some can use a backup deep-cycle battery to operate for some

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

We've got a Jotul 118. I really like it, it's got secondary burn so there isn't any smoke when it's burning good and it'll heat our whole house adequately while requiring no electricity. I make a big pile of yard waste all year and burn it during the first few days of heating season which uses

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

Those corn heaters seem like a really stupid idea. Lets burn food for heat. At least with ethanol the residue still has some food value. -Curt On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 07:09:07 PM EDT, mitch--- via Mercedes wrote: On 2022-08-26 18:37, greg via Mercedes wrote: > For efficiency,

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

Make sure you've got some backup electricity though... -Curt On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 06:38:51 PM EDT, greg via Mercedes wrote: For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

On 2022-08-26 18:37, greg via Mercedes wrote: For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional woodstove and utilize waste products

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

I want to utilize the waste products of my 5 wooded acres. On Fri, Aug 26, 2022, at 18:37, greg via Mercedes wrote: > For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here > in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance > baseboard heat. They

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 18:37:54 -0400 greg via Mercedes wrote: > For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here > in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by > resistance baseboard heat. They require less attention than a > traditional woodstove and

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional woodstove and utilize waste products of lumbermills. Greg > For a variety of reasons

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

Don't have a fireplace. On Fri, Aug 26, 2022, at 15:54, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote: > You can use a fireplace insert provided you allow outside air for > combustion rather than suck heated air from the home up the chimney. > > On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 4:23 PM Craig via Mercedes > wrote:

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

You can use a fireplace insert provided you allow outside air for combustion rather than suck heated air from the home up the chimney. On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 4:23 PM Craig via Mercedes wrote: > On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 13:07:54 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes > wrote: > > > For a variety of

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 13:07:54 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote: > For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood > stove. I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably > attractive to look at. Any recommendations? We had Vermont Castings stoves in the

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

A free-standing stove gets into a lot of code and insurance issues. There are a lot of zero-clearance inserts you can box in and run a flue, they have fans to move the heat around, look like a fireplace when (glass) doors are open. The flue aspect can be challenging too. I think the newer

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

For a “variety” of reasons. How about for one reason- because oil is $5 per gallon and we all know why Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 26, 2022, at 2:09 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes > wrote: > > For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. > I'd like

[MBZ] OT: Wood stove

For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to look at. Any recommendations? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Yes around the outside. Also hood to put a vertical clamp on a leg or two so you have pressure on legs & rungs. If not tap legs in with rubber mallet.Wish I were closer. Have boatload of clamps. Dwight Giles Jr. 1982 300CD 2005 E320 4 matic Wickford RI On Nov 13, 2016 2:02 PM, "Max Dillon via

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

I used it some years ago, but for it to work well you have to apply it hot. It involves the use of a glue pot and brush. You buy it in pellet or block form and throw it in the pot where it melts down into a liquid. Messy and painful to use, but does a pretty good job when it comes to gluing

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Oh yeah, for that, the straps are great --FT On 11/13/16 2:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Ok, but for the legs, Dwight said he likes web clamps. -- --FT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Ok, but for the legs, Dwight said he likes web clamps. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On November 13, 2016 1:09:03 PM EST, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote: >I have pipe clamps, and you will need some C-clamps to keep the seat >sides aligned while

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

You can get bottled hide glue now too. The thing about hide glue is that it is releasable so not really permanent. I notice on old furniture it dries out and crumbles up so doesn't really hold any more. Interestingly, Titebond is also releasable with some heat, and will rebond when it

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Have you, or anyone else on the list, ever used (hot) hide glue? Gerry ~ Dwight wrote: > You are correct Dan. I have about 15 different clamps. For chair seats I > like bar or pipe clamps. Web clamp for chair legs. > And never use gorilla glue for this. >

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

I have pipe clamps, and you will need some C-clamps to keep the seat sides aligned while skweezing the edges together. Web clamps won't get you where you need to be, you need the pipe clamps (and skweeze kind of clamps won't give enough pressure). This is a case of more is better, too much

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Ok, ok, Titebond it is, with clamps. Does harbor freight sell web clamps? -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

> On November 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM Max Dillon via Mercedes > wrote: > > > Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock? > > I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type. "Bedding" of action to stock should always be done with Acraglas, or better yet,

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

If the crack is tight in regular wood repair get a hypodermic needle, water down the tite bond & inject it into the crack. Dwight Giles Jr. 1982 300CD 1990 300D Wickford RI On Nov 13, 2016 10:42 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" wrote: > For gun stocks, yes. > > Acraglas

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

You want Titebond II wood glue, smear some in the crack, make sure both sides are covered, then clamp it together for 24hr. If you want to bring them out I have all the clamps needed, and the glue too. --R On 11/13/16 10:19 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Looks like Brownell's Acraglas

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

For gun stocks, yes. Acraglas can be used to repair cracks as well, if they’re open enough to get it into the joint. Hot Stuff Thin instant CA glue is for really tight cracks that you can’t force adhesive into, as it can get "wicked” into the joint by capillary action. I would never use

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock? I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On November 12, 2016 11:05:11 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes wrote: >On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 22:32:07 -0500 Max Dillon via

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

You are correct Dan. I have about 15 different clamps. For chair seats I like bar or pipe clamps. Web clamp for chair legs. And never use gorilla glue for this. Dwight Dwight Giles Jr. 1982 300CD 1990 300D Wickford RI On Nov 13, 2016 9:43 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes"

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

Titebond yellow wood glue. You can get it at any big box home improvement store. As suggested, clamping is critical to joint longevity. C clamps. rubber bands, anything to keep the surfaces in contact and minimize voids in the joint. Gorilla Glue has its uses, but this would not be my

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until you see a bead of glue,squeeze out. Dwight Dwight Giles Jr. 1982 300CD 1990 300D Wickford RI On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes"

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

I use regular wood glue for regular wood. If it's going to get wet sometimes, I use gorilla glue. How can UV attack a glue that is well-protected by the wood itself? -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 22:32:07 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: > What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for the > shotgun stock that Dan was considering)? > > I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half. > Some other

[MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for the shotgun stock that Dan was considering)? I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half. Some other chairs have loose joints, I was planning to use regular wood glue in the joints. Thanks, -- Max

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

CINC would be Commander IN Chief. COMHOMELANT would be Commander, Atlantic Home. I can't quite figure out Curly's abbreviations... Max Dillon, Charleston SC On Nov 12, 2014 9:26 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: AF designation would be CINCHOME. 'Hope all are well.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Commander, mid america How did the COMMIDAM orders fly with COMHOMELANT? CINC would be Commander IN Chief. COMHOMELANT would be Commander, Atlantic Home. I can't quite figure out Curly's abbreviations... Max Dillon, Charleston SC ___

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Ah, got it. COMHOMELANT only recognizes one higher authority, and it isn't COMMIDAM! Max Dillon, Charleston SC On Nov 13, 2014 12:51 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Commander, mid america How did the COMMIDAM orders fly with COMHOMELANT?

[MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I have recently put down 3 floors. One prefinished brazilian cherry, one prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry. These are all solid wood. The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice. The hickory is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and temperature. The

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Opinion: Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Thanks Rich. Tell me more about ordering wood on-line. Website? -Max On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 9:18 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I have recently put down 3 floors. One prefinished brazilian cherry, one prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I agree. Engineered is garbage. It will always have a cheap look to it. The pre finished is nice but it has a subtle bevel and a finish which is too perfect. These both detract in my opinion. The best is solid wood sanded then finished. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 12, 2014, at 9:21 AM, G Mann

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Why not buy or make your own oak flooring to match what is there? The prefinished stuff is nowhere near as nice as the old oak (or maple) flooring. Maybe you can find a school that is taking up their maple flooring and get then for the hauling if you want to go cheap. I got some oak

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I have done real TG oak and maple in about six different houses. This would be solid wood, 3/4 thick, tongue and groove flooring, unfinished. I'm not familiar with a prefinished 3/4 wood product. I have done engineered flooring, specifically Pergo, in a couple of houses. My personal preference

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Hurst Hardwoods for the pre-finished and I think the unfinished, build.com for the hickory (although they have other stuff too). I actually can't remember on all of it, would have to pull my receipts and check. Hurst (not Jabba) is in Tampa and were very good and good prices. I can dig up

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I particularly hate the 'snare drum' sound of the floating wood-like floors. That said, we've got one of those in the kitchen, and are about to do the same to the boy's room. (Pet bird, carpets. You do the math!) The thing is, in 20 years (?) when these look like crap they'll be easy to take

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I was concerned about the prefinished stuff too but after researching it I determined that the factory finish is much harder and durable than what can be put down after a floor is sanded. The finishes are warranteed, for whatever that is worth. The prefinished hickory I put down has a small

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

- Original Message - From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Why not buy or make your own oak flooring to match what

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

dillonm...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Opinion: Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a fresh finish. [there are machines

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

irresponsible adults. Wilton - Original Message - From: G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

I thihnk that is jatoba or brazilian cherry, which is what I put down. Very hard. Mine does not have a lot of variability but some. I think what you have is a lower grade than what I got. Do a google but this is where I got mine, both prefinished and unfinished. They ahve a variety of

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Thanks to all for the input, and Rich thanks for the offer of the nail gun - I will probably take you up on that. Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple, hickory, birch, or ash. Oak is not

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 08:38:54 -0600 Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house. 3 big red oak logs. Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few years, then planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Paint hides a multitude of sins. Maybe you can put a coat on the stair parts, The choice of wood engineered floor presents a host of questions. Cheap end floor or the more expensive stuff. Some of the really high end laminate is of the same durability of solid wood. Solid wood does require

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

‎Original Message   From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

‎From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 5:02 PM To: Mercedes; Rick Knoble Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Rick, I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is included, not sure

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

TO: COMHOMELANT From: COMMIDAM SUBJECT: Deciduous Decking Date: 12 Nov, 2014 18:00 Hrs COMHOMELANT, The current quercus rubra deciduous decking must be handled as follows: 1. thoroughly swab the deck with descending grits of aluminum oxide until all old finish is removed. 2. remove all

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

AF designation would be CINCHOME. 'Hope all are well. ;) Civvy interpretation would be Complainer In Chief, Home? -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go

[MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry. Having run several boards through the jointer I now have a large trash barrel full of shavings, which smells really good. But I am pained to just dump it in a pile out back, as I have done in the past, and was trying to figure

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

I have a large BBQ and also a large smoker. For both of them I bought at the local BBQ supply store [specialty shop that only sells BBQ's , parts, and all the frick and frack you would possibly want or use with BBQ's] a nice little metal wood smoke box. It is a box with a lid that has holes to

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

Rich wrote: I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry. Having run several boards through the jointer I now have a large trash barrel full of shavings, which smells really good. But I am pained to just dump it in a pile out back, as I have done in the past, and was

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

I filled another big trash bag so far with shavings from the planer, it is good and dry. I'll probably put the stuff in the barrel in some bags too just to make it easier to deal with. I have some hickory I got in KY too, slabs from what the Amish were milling, I do a mix with some oak too,

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

Wrap the wetted wood shavings in foil, then put them in the smoker. Poking holes in the foil will let the smoke out. Bigger chunks will smoke longer. If you have small stuff, make a few packets and put fresh in as needed clay On Feb 25, 2014, at 7:32 AM, Rich Thomas wrote: I am milling up

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

clay wrote: Wrap the wetted wood shavings in foil, then put them in the smoker. Poking holes in the foil will let the smoke out. Bigger chunks will smoke longer. If you have small stuff, make a few packets and put fresh in as needed This works well too. I suggest heavy duty foil, and

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

Mitch wrote: I know there are some woodworkers on the list. I just bought some 10 year old wild cherry . . . This reminds me of something I was going to ask the list members. Which members are REALLY into woodworking? My uncle has been into Woodworking for years. He built a boat, he builds

[MBZ] OT: wood moisture

I know there are some woodworkers on the list. I just bought some 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and had sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it gets. There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had been getting under there.

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

Believe your meter. Wood will stabilize at a particular moisture level depending on local humidity levels, process takes a matter of weeks. If you can, move the cherry wood into the building where the final product (cabinets) will reside, let it sit for a couple weeks, then make your

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: I know there are some woodworkers on the list. I just bought some 10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and had sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it gets. There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards,

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

From my experience, end splits are normal for air dried lumber. The ends get more air and sun exposure and dry relatively faster than deeper in the pile. You have to count it in as waste, sorry to say. At that moisture content with the wood stacked and sticked you should be good. As for the

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

Ideally you want to paint the ends with a waxy sealer stuff that keeps the end grain from wicking moisture out faster than it escapes from the edges and faces. Seldom done so you end up with a few inches each end that are waste from the cracks/splits. Now if that is cherry, hickory, oak or

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

From someone who used to buy 400 BF loads of red oak from the people who owned the trees Splitting during drying is normal and part of the process. There are ways of treating the wood prior to drying that can minimize this, but unless you're doing some serious milling it's not usually

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

a maul is probably worth picking up. My manual splitter just sits by its lonesome, I can split so much faster by hand and at the same time I'm making the jiggly go away... -Curt Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:16:34 -0400 From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

How does your insurance company feel about a wood stove? Randy -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 1:50 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters Locust and oak

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original The straight grained locust splits nice. I will split that all day with a maul...Knots

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Locust and oak are totally awesome firewood for wood stoves. On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Better about the Jotul I put in than the Vogelzang cheapie that was here before... A good quality properly installed woodstove is no danger to a house. -Curt Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 14:30:44 -0500 From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters To: Mercedes Discussion

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

but based on one season of burning just hardwood and burning it HOT I'm not worried. -Curt Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 16:50:54 -0400 From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

17:16:34 -0400 From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original The straight grained locust splits nice. I

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Its 4' high by 50' by 18. On 3/28/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can split a stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter. So, would that

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

it;) Mike - Original Message - From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday afternoon and have

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Yep, that's just over 6 face cord. Mike - Original Message - From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:15 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters Its 4' high by 50' by 18. On 3/28/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

: Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:18 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters I did split some locust wood with it. sections that were 18 long and maybe 10-12 across. That is some tough wood! It split it with no problem, but you had to run the splitter all the way throught it. That wood just does

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

it;) Mike - Original Message - From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday afternoon and have

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters Frozen hemlock knots will supposedly shatter a splitting axe. Try that too. On 3/29/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Give it a big ole locust knot and see

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can split a stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter. That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it. I have split every type of wood you

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can split a stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter. So, would that be 6 'face cords'? I borrowed a neighbor's splitter, and in the time I have

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can split a stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter. That way I

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Thats an outstanding deal. I got a cord for $175 last fall and thought it was a good deal. Around here most places are getting $200 a cord. -Curt Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 17:13:20 -0400 From: Kris Gilmore [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters To: Mercedes Discussion List

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

We burn a good 5-6 cords a winter. I split it all by hand. Keeps me from getting too lazy. Mike - Original Message - From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:47 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

you can power the pump by your unimog pto or a motor the next piece is a 3 or 4 inch hydraulic cylinder. The rest you can build from scrap. Was going to build my own, but got employed. There's just not enough spare time to do this, versus just buying something. If its good straight wood I

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Jim Cathey wrote: A full pickup load is a cord. Very roughly. ... if you can pile it to an average depth of 4' http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/cord.htm

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 22:19:31 -0500 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Cathey wrote: A full pickup load is a cord. Very roughly. ... if you can pile it to an average depth of 4' http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/cord.htm But since a piece of plywood (4' x 8') can lie flat between the

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

- From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 11:19 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters Jim Cathey wrote: A full pickup load is a cord. Very roughly. ... if you can pile it to an average depth of 4' http

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

Might be in a full sized 3/4 ton pickup... 1/2 ton you can't go full height or you'll be draggin the rear end too low to get out of the woods. Ask me how I know this, I've got a great story about leaving a muffler in the bush. I however have a Dodge Dakota which is narrower and only has a 6'

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

A full pickup load is a cord. Very roughly. And by full, I mean FULL. Mounded up above the roof height in the center, all the way back. The guys that deliver commercially usually have plywood sides on the truck. They way to do that is to make a reference stack (or ten) then load the truck.

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