Re: [MBZ] Coolant for M113

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Supposedly g05 is nearly identical and can be used. I know it’s a lot cheaper 
than g48.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 8, 2023, at 1:33 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes I noticed it was kinda pee color but no idea what it is, could be the 
> universal stuff. I don’t recall adding any to it. But whatever the Zerex 
> stuff is would be good. 
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iFōn
> 
>> On Feb 8, 2023, at 12:11 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Planning to change the coolant in the '04 E500 just so I know how old it is.
>> 
>> FCP Euro is recommending G48 and Zerex website recomends G40 but also lists 
>> G48 as "compatible"
>> 
>> Not sure what's in there now, at a glance it looks like yellow (G05?) or 
>> green or a mix? Going to suck some out and see.
>> 
>> I'm tempted to go with the G48 (blue) as that is also used by my Volvo.
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant for M113

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Yes I noticed it was kinda pee color but no idea what it is, could be the 
universal stuff. I don’t recall adding any to it. But whatever the Zerex stuff 
is would be good. 

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Feb 8, 2023, at 12:11 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Planning to change the coolant in the '04 E500 just so I know how old it is.
> 
> FCP Euro is recommending G48 and Zerex website recomends G40 but also lists 
> G48 as "compatible"
> 
> Not sure what's in there now, at a glance it looks like yellow (G05?) or 
> green or a mix? Going to suck some out and see.
> 
> I'm tempted to go with the G48 (blue) as that is also used by my Volvo.
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant for M113

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Planning to change the coolant in the '04 E500 just so I know how old it is.

FCP Euro is recommending G48 and Zerex website recomends G40 but also lists G48 
as "compatible"

Not sure what's in there now, at a glance it looks like yellow (G05?) or green 
or a mix? Going to suck some out and see.

I'm tempted to go with the G48 (blue) as that is also used by my Volvo.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant Testing with a Multimeter

[Craig via Mercedes]

https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/car-maintenance/coolant-testing-with-a-multimeter/

I'm not sure I buy their contention using a multi-meter as described can
show when there is corrosion in a cooling system, but I thought you guys
would like to see it.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

This is one of those "if it isn't broke, it will be" things on Subarus, kind of 
like the bent rods on later OM603's (Mercedes content).


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: January 2, 2019 12:05 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: azbob...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color


I don’t think so. The timing belt was changed right before I bought it and the 
leak is up front there somewhere. I don’t think that is where head gasket leaks 
manifest themselves is it? (2004 Outback 2.5)

Bob R

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

I don’t think so. The timing belt was changed right before I bought it and the 
leak is up front there somewhere. I don’t think that is where head gasket leaks 
manifest themselves is it? (2004 Outback 2.5)

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 2, 2019, at 10:58 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

>> I’m living with a annoying coolant leak
> 
> Head gasket?
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

>I’m living with a annoying coolant leak

Head gasket?

Rick


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

Well, correct Subaru coolant is green. I’m living with a annoying coolant leak 
(until I get several days off in a row) that has caused me to go through a 
gallon of coolant in three weeks. I may have to live with this another three 
weeks so I rather just run some less expensive but correct coolant through it 
if possible. 
If all green coolant is the same, I’ll just buy the cheapest until I can fix 
the leak. 

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 2, 2019, at 10:19 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The "universal" stuff is very pale, almost clear, maybe a very light green 
> tint.  Makes it hard to know what mix you have.
> 
> --FT
> 
>> On 1/2/19 12:03 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:
>> Generally, coolant is categorized by color, no? For example, is all green 
>> coolant the same? Is all peach colored coolant the same?
>> 
>> Bob R
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

The "universal" stuff is very pale, almost clear, maybe a very light 
green tint.  Makes it hard to know what mix you have.


--FT

On 1/2/19 12:03 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:

Generally, coolant is categorized by color, no? For example, is all green 
coolant the same? Is all peach colored coolant the same?

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



--
--FT


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant Color

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

Generally, coolant is categorized by color, no? For example, is all green 
coolant the same? Is all peach colored coolant the same?

Bob R 

Sent from my iPhone
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[OK Don via Mercedes]

If your radiator has tanks on the ends, and a pressure cap on a separate
tank, then it's an expansion tank, not an overflow tank.

On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:57 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Not sure if there is such a beast on my w123...
>
> On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 4:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Not so.
> >
> > There is an overflow tank, but it’s inside the right side fender behind
> > the splash shield.  The expansion tank allows the expansion and
> contraction
> > of the coolant, and is part of a closed system.  The overflow tank is
> > connected to the filler neck where the pressure cap is located and
> collects
> > any coolant that is passed out of the expansion tank by the pressure cap.
> >
> > -D
> >
> > > On May 21, 2018, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh.  I call that the overflow tank
> > >
> > > On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > > He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
> > >
> > > - D
> > >
> > > > On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Do you mean radiator??
> > > >
> > > > On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> > > > mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> > > >> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
> > > >>
> > > >> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit:
> > no
> > > >> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
> > > >> --
> > > >> Max Dillon
> > > >> Charleston SC
> > > >> '87 300TD
> > > >> '95 E300
> > > >> ___
> > > >> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > > >>
> > > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ <
> > http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> > > >>
> > > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com <
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > > ___
> > > > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > > >
> > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ <
> > http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> > > >
> > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com <
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > >
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ <
> > http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com <
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>


-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

The overflow hose/tube just goes down to the wheel well in your car.  The EPC 
refers to it as a “De-aeration tube”.

-D



> On May 21, 2018, at 4:57 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:
> 
> Not sure if there is such a beast on my w123...
> 
> On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 4:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> > wrote:
> Not so.
> 
> There is an overflow tank, but it’s inside the right side fender behind the 
> splash shield.  The expansion tank allows the expansion and contraction of 
> the coolant, and is part of a closed system.  The overflow tank is connected 
> to the filler neck where the pressure cap is located and collects any coolant 
> that is passed out of the expansion tank by the pressure cap.
> 
> -D
> 
> > On May 21, 2018, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  > > wrote:
> > 
> > Oh.  I call that the overflow tank
> > 
> > On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> >  
> > >> wrote:
> > He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
> > 
> > - D
> > 
> > > On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
> > >  
> > > >> wrote:
> > > 
> > > Do you mean radiator??
> > > 
> > > On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> > > mercedes@okiebenz.com  
> > > >> wrote:
> > > 
> > >> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> > >> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
> > >> 
> > >> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit: no
> > >> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
> > >> --
> > >> Max Dillon
> > >> Charleston SC
> > >> '87 300TD
> > >> '95 E300
> > >> ___
> > >> http://www.okiebenz.com  
> > >> >
> > >> 
> > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> > >>   > >> >
> > >> 
> > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> > >>  
> > >>  > >> >
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com  
> > > >
> > > 
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> > >   > > >
> > > 
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> > >  
> > >  > > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com  
> > >
> > 
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> >   > >
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> >  
> >  > >
> > 
> > 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Not sure if there is such a beast on my w123...

On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 4:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Not so.
>
> There is an overflow tank, but it’s inside the right side fender behind
> the splash shield.  The expansion tank allows the expansion and contraction
> of the coolant, and is part of a closed system.  The overflow tank is
> connected to the filler neck where the pressure cap is located and collects
> any coolant that is passed out of the expansion tank by the pressure cap.
>
> -D
>
> > On May 21, 2018, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel 
> wrote:
> >
> > Oh.  I call that the overflow tank
> >
> > On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
> >
> > - D
> >
> > > On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > >
> > > Do you mean radiator??
> > >
> > > On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> > > mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > >
> > >> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> > >> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
> > >>
> > >> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit:
> no
> > >> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
> > >> --
> > >> Max Dillon
> > >> Charleston SC
> > >> '87 300TD
> > >> '95 E300
> > >> ___
> > >> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > >>
> > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ <
> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> > >>
> > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com <
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> > >>
> > >>
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > >
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ <
> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com <
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ <
> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com <
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> >
> >
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Not so.

There is an overflow tank, but it’s inside the right side fender behind the 
splash shield.  The expansion tank allows the expansion and contraction of the 
coolant, and is part of a closed system.  The overflow tank is connected to the 
filler neck where the pressure cap is located and collects any coolant that is 
passed out of the expansion tank by the pressure cap.

-D

> On May 21, 2018, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:
> 
> Oh.  I call that the overflow tank
> 
> On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> > wrote:
> He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
> 
> - D
> 
> > On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
> > > wrote:
> > 
> > Do you mean radiator??
> > 
> > On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:
> > 
> >> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> >> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
> >> 
> >> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit: no
> >> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
> >> --
> >> Max Dillon
> >> Charleston SC
> >> '87 300TD
> >> '95 E300
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> >> 
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > 
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> > 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Oh.  I call that the overflow tank

On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
>
> - D
>
> > On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Do you mean radiator??
> >
> > On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> >> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
> >>
> >> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit: no
> >> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
> >> --
> >> Max Dillon
> >> Charleston SC
> >> '87 300TD
> >> '95 E300
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.

- D

> On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Do you mean radiator??
> 
> On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
>> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
>> 
>> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit: no
>> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '87 300TD
>> '95 E300
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Do you mean radiator??

On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
>
> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit: no
> one (Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124 gasser 
coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.

Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL.  Side benefit: no one 
(Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Well the sdl tank is different for sure. Not sure about the difference on a 124.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2018, at 7:37 PM, OK Don via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> What's different between the gassers and the Diesel tanks? Maybe next to
> nothing
> 
> On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 6:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> What is the deal with coolant tanks?  I have started looking for parts for
>> this SDL I picked up and want to replace the coolant tank on it since this
>> one is cruddy and you can't see the level in the tank.  I also want to
>> replace the one on my 95 E300.  I thought these were cheap?  I can't find
>> them for either car on any of the normal sites, but found the SDL one for
>> about $150 on the online dealer part sites.  I guess these are not
>> available aftermarket?  I see cheap ones for gassers.
>> 
>> 
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>> http://www.avg.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 
> *“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
> our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain
> 
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
> 
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant tanks

[OK Don via Mercedes]

What's different between the gassers and the Diesel tanks? Maybe next to
nothing

On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 6:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> What is the deal with coolant tanks?  I have started looking for parts for
> this SDL I picked up and want to replace the coolant tank on it since this
> one is cruddy and you can't see the level in the tank.  I also want to
> replace the one on my 95 E300.  I thought these were cheap?  I can't find
> them for either car on any of the normal sites, but found the SDL one for
> about $150 on the online dealer part sites.  I guess these are not
> available aftermarket?  I see cheap ones for gassers.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> http://www.avg.com
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>


-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant tanks

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

What is the deal with coolant tanks?  I have started looking for parts 
for this SDL I picked up and want to replace the coolant tank on it 
since this one is cruddy and you can't see the level in the tank.  I 
also want to replace the one on my 95 E300.  I thought these were 
cheap?  I can't find them for either car on any of the normal sites, but 
found the SDL one for about $150 on the online dealer part sites.  I 
guess these are not available aftermarket?  I see cheap ones for gassers.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant level sensor failure?

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

I think the coolant level sensor has begun failing in my 95 124.131.

The light in the dash periodically comes on, but the coolant level in the 
overflow tank is fine.

Anyone else suffer this failure?  Is there also a circuit in the instrument 
cluster, similar to the oil level sensor, that might be at fault?  Light 
doesn't flicker, just comes on for a bit, maybe ten or twenty seconds, then 
goes off.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[Dan Penoff]

I have been struggling with the coolant temperature gauge on the S500.  It's 
been wonky for a while, and driving me nuts in the process.  Typical behavior 
would be for it to show the coolant temperature as the engine arms up, then 
when it approaches operating temperature, BOING!  The needle goes full scale.

I had tested and replaced the sender, verified that the wiring harness was 
intact (found a break in it) and gone completely through the circuit to the 
point where I was convinced the gauge itself was bad.

I snagged a complete instrument cluster for $100 from a guy parting out a 95 
S500 sedan.  Yesterday I pulled my cluster, swapped the gauges from his cluster 
to mine, and while in there cleaned and replaced lamps, connections, etc.  I 
also took the opportunity to transplant the little rubber pads that are located 
around the outside of the cluster that keep it from slipping out of the dash, 
since only one of mine was left.

Voilá!  I now have a working coolant temperature gauge.  Amazing.  What's even 
better is to see that in a mid 80F ambient with the AC on I am running right 
around 82C.  Since the gauge had been pretty much nonfunctional in the past, I 
have never had a good idea where the engine was running temperature-wise.

I love it when everything works.

Dan
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[WILTON]

'Nother ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com

To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:05 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix


I have been struggling with the coolant temperature gauge on the S500.  It's 
been wonky for a while, and driving me nuts in the process.  Typical 
behavior would be for it to show the coolant temperature as the engine arms 
up, then when it approaches operating temperature, BOING!  The needle goes 
full scale.


I had tested and replaced the sender, verified that the wiring harness was 
intact (found a break in it) and gone completely through the circuit to the 
point where I was convinced the gauge itself was bad.


I snagged a complete instrument cluster for $100 from a guy parting out a 95 
S500 sedan.  Yesterday I pulled my cluster, swapped the gauges from his 
cluster to mine, and while in there cleaned and replaced lamps, connections, 
etc.  I also took the opportunity to transplant the little rubber pads that 
are located around the outside of the cluster that keep it from slipping out 
of the dash, since only one of mine was left.


Voilá!  I now have a working coolant temperature gauge.  Amazing.  What's 
even better is to see that in a mid 80F ambient with the AC on I am running 
right around 82C.  Since the gauge had been pretty much nonfunctional in the 
past, I have never had a good idea where the engine was running 
temperature-wise.


I love it when everything works.

Dan
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[Craig]

On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 10:42:25 -0400 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 'Nother ATTABOY!
 
 Wilton

Indeed!


 - Original Message - 
 From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com

 Voilá!  I now have a working coolant temperature gauge.  Amazing.
 What's even better is to see that in a mid 80F ambient with the AC on I
 am running right around 82C.  Since the gauge had been pretty much
 nonfunctional in the past, I have never had a good idea where the
 engine was running temperature-wise.
 
 I love it when everything works.

It's encouraging and pleasing when your labors bear good fruit, isn't it?


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[Larry T]

soundslike a great price for that cluster!

LarryT
91 300D

On 4/28/2013 10:05 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

I have been struggling with the coolant temperature gauge on the S500.  It's 
been wonky for a while, and driving me nuts in the process.  Typical behavior 
would be for it to show the coolant temperature as the engine arms up, then 
when it approaches operating temperature, BOING!  The needle goes full scale.

I had tested and replaced the sender, verified that the wiring harness was 
intact (found a break in it) and gone completely through the circuit to the 
point where I was convinced the gauge itself was bad.

I snagged a complete instrument cluster for $100 from a guy parting out a 95 
S500 sedan.  Yesterday I pulled my cluster, swapped the gauges from his cluster 
to mine, and while in there cleaned and replaced lamps, connections, etc.  I 
also took the opportunity to transplant the little rubber pads that are located 
around the outside of the cluster that keep it from slipping out of the dash, 
since only one of mine was left.

Voilá!  I now have a working coolant temperature gauge.  Amazing.  What's even 
better is to see that in a mid 80F ambient with the AC on I am running right 
around 82C.  Since the gauge had been pretty much nonfunctional in the past, I 
have never had a good idea where the engine was running temperature-wise.

I love it when everything works.

Dan
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[Dan Penoff]

Yeah.  I saw the guy was parting out the car, so I asked him if he wanted to 
sell the cluster.  He told me to make him an offer, so I told him $100.  I 
didn't hear from him for like a week, so I figured he was offended by my offer 
(eBay units are going for around $150-$200).

I dropped him a note and asked about it, and he apologized and said he forgot 
as he had been traveling on business.  He accepted the offer and shipped it out 
to me the next day.

Dan

On Apr 28, 2013, at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote:

 soundslike a great price for that cluster!
 
 LarryT
 91 300D
 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I guess I should put some of my 140 clusters on eBay, I probably would have 
sold you one for 50

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Yeah.  I saw the guy was parting out the car, so I asked him if he wanted to 
 sell the cluster.  He told me to make him an offer, so I told him $100.  I 
 didn't hear from him for like a week, so I figured he was offended by my 
 offer (eBay units are going for around $150-$200).
 
 I dropped him a note and asked about it, and he apologized and said he forgot 
 as he had been traveling on business.  He accepted the offer and shipped it 
 out to me the next day.
 
 Dan
 
 On Apr 28, 2013, at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote:
 
 soundslike a great price for that cluster!
 
 LarryT
 91 300D
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix

[Dan Penoff]

If you had some visibility as a seller of used parts these days, I would
have contacted you.  You're a tough person to get a hold of, and you
haven't said a lot about selling used parts around here in some time.

Got any 140s with black interiors?

Dan

On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 4:14 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I guess I should put some of my 140 clusters on eBay, I probably would
 have sold you one for 50

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 28, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

  Yeah.  I saw the guy was parting out the car, so I asked him if he
 wanted to sell the cluster.  He told me to make him an offer, so I told him
 $100.  I didn't hear from him for like a week, so I figured he was offended
 by my offer (eBay units are going for around $150-$200).
 
  I dropped him a note and asked about it, and he apologized and said he
 forgot as he had been traveling on business.  He accepted the offer and
 shipped it out to me the next day.
 
  Dan
 
  On Apr 28, 2013, at 2:44 PM, Larry T wrote:
 
  soundslike a great price for that cluster!
 
  LarryT
  91 300D
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] coolant

[RELNGSON]

 G05 is the genuine stuff, it's exactly the same. The new blue stuff 
 is different I guess..
 
The current 15 year coolant (my 2008 C300 uses this) has to be different 
than the previous GO-5 compatible stuff.

RLE
 
 
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change

[RELNGSON]

 ...I remembered him saying MB coolant (G-05) was good for 2 years.  
 Regular
 coolant good for one...
 
MB sez if the coolant is the right stuff, change it every three years. 
Modern MB change interval is fifteen yes fifteen years. With periodic 
examination, of cuss.

Brake fluid is every two years which I had done today. Six months late, I 
hate to admit.

RLE
 
 
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change testing

[Hendrik Fay]

I bought meself an brake fluid tester a while back, twas sitting on the 
counter of the spare parts place, tempting me with the promise of 
telling me how much water is in the juice and sold itself by saying that 
if you buy me you can test your brakey fluid and know how much 
resistance there is.


Hendrik
who likes fancy gadgets

On 13/07/12 10:00, relng...@aol.com wrote all this:



MB sez if the coolant is the right stuff, change it every three years.
Modern MB change interval is fifteen yes fifteen years. With periodic
examination, of cuss.

Brake fluid is every two years which I had done today. Six months late, I
hate to admit.

RLE






___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] coolant change

[RELNGSON]

 ...Two years is the recommended change interval for the proper MB/G-05 
 coolant, .Allan..
 
Not any more.

RLE

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] coolant change

[Craig]

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 21:59:49 -0400 (EDT) relng...@aol.com wrote:

  ...Two years is the recommended change interval for the proper
  MB/G-05 coolant, .Allan..
  
 Not any more.

What is the recommended change interval now?


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y

[Brian Toscano]

Since the last flush, I'm not getting any heavy deposits.  Instead I'm
getting lots of fine powered rust.  I pulled the heater core hoses and the
bright orange rust that was built up on the heater core and inside the
hoses is completely gone! :-)

Looks like another flush similar to the last one should result in much
cleaner coolant.





On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 7:22 PM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.

 I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.

 When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
 year.  When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored.  =
 Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
 removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
 coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
 nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
 suspect was rust.

 Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
 rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph.  As soon as I =
 crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
 above the proper 82F or thereabouts.

 Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop.  The core =
 was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust.  Where it =
 came from, I have no idea.  When I flushed and refilled the system the =
 coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.

 Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
 the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
 until the ambient temps got up relatively high.  I can only suspect that =
 they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
 to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.

 Point being, flush the system for sure.  Whether or not you'll continue =
 to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
 heater core.

 Dan


  From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
  Ernest,
  I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed
 the
  system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
  radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not
 clear
  on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron
 and
  not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
  core?
 
  I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean
 it,
  that it may spring a leak!
 
  My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty
 the
  coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may
 continue to
  shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money
 on
  something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust
 even
  with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are
 otherwise
  good.
 
  On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield 
  erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
 
  since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
  odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the
 air
  in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and
 causing
  corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
 
i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
  garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til
 it's
  clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully
 clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
  filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same
 problem.
  cheers!
  e
  '85 300D(200K+)
  '94 XJ(240K+)
 
  On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
  Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
  came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
  brown,
  and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
 what
  is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
 clean
  water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
  removed
  the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
 engine
  (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
 rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
  The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
 the top
  of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
  return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
 radiator
  hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
  holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
 from if
  the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
  On Mon, May 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[John Reames]

Dex-cool sludge?

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jun 3, 2012, at 0:23, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thank for the suggestions.
 
 Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30
 minutes.  What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through
 the heater core radiator, and engine.  I am not sure if the garden hose has
 enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by
 hand.
 
 The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty.  I don't think the
 engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is
 slowly coming out.  Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine
 over time.
 
 The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or
 expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator.  I think
 this must happen after the engine cools off.  I would think the water pump
 moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is
 running (except for the expansion tank).
 
 
 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
 radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water
 came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small
 hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3
 years
 old) should inhibit corrosion.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
 Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
 work)
 
 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
 brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.
 
 
 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.
 
 Did you fix the original problem?
 
 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I am not saying ignore, but instead leave it and see if the system
continues to clean itself out.  I have already seen that the cooling system
is getting cleaner by driving it.

It may be dex-cool sludge.  When the thermostat failed and I removed the
radiator cap I had to scoop out orange mud like paste.  It may be that the
mechanic who R/R'd the head saw rusty colored coolant and used Dexcool.
 Does't Dexcool usually leave a stain near external seals?  I haven't seen
any evidence of that.

On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 6:13 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

 Dex-cool sludge?

 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Jun 3, 2012, at 0:23, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

  Thank for the suggestions.
 
  Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30
  minutes.  What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water
 through
  the heater core radiator, and engine.  I am not sure if the garden hose
 has
  enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by
  hand.
 
  The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty.  I don't think
 the
  engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is
  slowly coming out.  Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine
  over time.
 
  The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or
  expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator.  I
 think
  this must happen after the engine cools off.  I would think the water
 pump
  moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is
  running (except for the expansion tank).
 
 
  On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
 
  My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
  radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear
 water
  came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the
 small
  hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3
  years
  old) should inhibit corrosion.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:
 mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
  On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
  Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
  work)
 
  Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
  came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
  and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
 what
  is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
 clean
  water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
  the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
 engine
  (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
 rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
  The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the
 top
  of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
  return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
 radiator
  hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
  holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from
 if
  the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
  On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
  brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:
 
  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
  bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
  has
  been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
  100%
  perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
 block
  and head.
 
 
  On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:
 
  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
  compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
  radiator.
 
  Did you fix the original problem?
 
  I think your flushing method failed.
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '95 E300, '87 300TD
  ___
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Peter Hertzing]

Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking
about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system to
bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the
engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
system.

Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.

Peter
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

 Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?

 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

  I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
  spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be
 the
  way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
 rusting -
  it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
  to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
 changing
  the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
  could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
  through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
  clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
  cast iron.
 
 
  On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas 
  richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 
  Maybe those springs?
 
  --R
 
 
  On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
 
  Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
  came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
  brown,
  and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
 what
  is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
 clean
  water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
  removed
  the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
 engine
  (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
 rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
  The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the
 top
  of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
  return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
 radiator
  hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
  holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
 from if
  the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
  On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.
 **combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
  bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
  has
  been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
  100%
  perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
 block
  and head.
 
 
  On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
  wrote:
 
  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
  compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
  radiator.
 
  Did you fix the original problem?
 
  I think your flushing method failed.
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '95 E300, '87 300TD
  ___
 
  __**_
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  __**_
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  __**_
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
since filled it up to the Full mark.

Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
been purged from the pressurized part of the system?


On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing phertz...@gmail.com wrote:

 Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking
 about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system to
 bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the
 engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
 properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
 that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
 you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
 it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
 system.

 Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
 internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.

 Peter
 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

  Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
 
  --
  John W Reames
  jream...@verizon.net
  Home: +14106646986
  Mobile: +14437915905
 
  On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
   spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be
  the
   way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
  rusting -
   it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't
 try
   to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
  changing
   the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring
 I
   could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse
 water
   through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
   clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both
 are
   cast iron.
  
  
   On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas 
   richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
  
   Maybe those springs?
  
   --R
  
  
   On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
  
   Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
   What
   came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
   brown,
   and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
  what
   is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
  clean
   water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
   removed
   the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
  engine
   (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
  rust-free.
   It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
  
   The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
 the
  top
   of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
  
   What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
   return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
  radiator
   hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that
 spring
   holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
  from if
   the inside of the engine looks fine.
  
   On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.
  **combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
   wrote:
  
   I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.
  The
   bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant
 tester.
   However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original
 problem
   has
   been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not
 expecting
   100%
   perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
  block
   and head.
  
  
   On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
   wrote:
  
   Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
   compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a
 dark
   radiator.
  
   Did you fix the original problem?
  
   I think your flushing method failed.
   --
   Max Dillon
   Charleston SC
   '95 E300, '87 300TD
   ___
  
   __**_
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
   To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
  

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Peter Hertzing]

When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  For arguments sake - you
could make the Radiator the highest point by bleeding the system on
jackstands as high as you can safely get the front of the jeep.

Peter

On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 12:02 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
 the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
 but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
 more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
 air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
 water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
 thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
 expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
 since filled it up to the Full mark.

 Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
 been purged from the pressurized part of the system?


 On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing phertz...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were
 talking
  about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system
 to
  bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of
 the
  engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
  properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
  that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
  you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
  it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
  system.
 
  Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
  internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.
 
  Peter
  On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 
   Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
  
   --
   John W Reames
   jream...@verizon.net
   Home: +14106646986
   Mobile: +14437915905
  
   On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  
I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has
 the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to
 be
   the
way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
   rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't
  try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
   changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the
 spring
  I
could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse
  water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be
 perfectly
clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both
  are
cast iron.
   
   
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
   
Maybe those springs?
   
--R
   
   
On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
   
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the
 radiator.
What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns
 rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.
  Likewise,
   what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I
 poured
   clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
   engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
   rust-free.
It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
   
The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
  the
   top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
   
What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply
 and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
   radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that
  spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
   from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.
   
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.
   **combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
wrote:
   
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.
   The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant
  tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original
  problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not
  expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
   block
and head.
   
   
On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
wrote:
   
Remove a sample from 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Mitch Haley]

Peter Hertzing wrote:

When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  


Like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Curt Raymond]

Put the front up on ramps while you're burping it? My '81 300TD liked to have 
the front higher while burping. We lived in the apartment back then so I drove 
it up on a handy curb which made burping it way easier.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 11:02:12 -0600
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
work)
Message-ID:
CACnCPh=5cp2yo+-t3w-eexwcwx_zfonmbdxk4rneflflbpc...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
since filled it up to the Full mark.

Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
been purged from the pressurized part of the system?


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Peter Hertzing]

Yes auto parts stores have them too.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 3, 2012, at 12:56 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Peter Hertzing wrote:
 When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
 correct size for the hose - and should be fine.  
 
 Like this?
 http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.


 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Rich Thomas]

Maybe those springs?

--R

On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:


I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:


Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
cast iron.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Maybe those springs?

 --R


 On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.

 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
 Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.


 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


  __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Rich Thomas]

Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely 
full of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust.  That would 
most likely be at the top.


--R

On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think changing
the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
cast iron.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:


Maybe those springs?

--R


On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:


Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net   wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



  __**_

http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

That is what I am thinking.

Some of the black grit I've found in the coolant may be the old head gasket
from when I paid a mechanic to R/R the head.  The Jeep had a weird severe
misfiring problem that turned out to be low compression from faulty exhaust
valves.  I believe it was isolated to 2000-2001 model years when Jeep
changed the valve springs for emissions

The rust may have formed when the engine was apart when the mechanic worked
on it.  I was in no hurry and he had it apart for about 4 months.

The other unusual thing about this Jeep is that the original owner
purchased it from the dealer with a skunky expansion tank.  He bought it
late in the model year and it was one of the last ones they made.  He also
told me, IIRC, that it was best to leave it near empty to prevent it from
overflowing.  Since I've replaced the thermostat and flushed it out, it
doesn't seem to have that problem anymore.




On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:08 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely full
 of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust.  That would most likely
 be at the top.

 --R


 On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

 I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
 spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
 way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting
 -
 it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
 to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
 changing
 the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
 could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
 through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
 clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
 cast iron.


 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas
 richthomas79TD300@**constructivity.netrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net
  wrote:

  Maybe those springs?

 --R


 On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

  Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
 what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
 clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
 engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
 rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the
 top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
 radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from
 if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.

 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.
 combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

  wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
 block
 and head.


 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 ___

 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.**com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 


 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_
 okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
 http://mail.**okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/**mercedes_okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 


   ___

 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.**com/archive/ http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/


 To Unsubscribe or 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[ernest breakfield]

since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses, 
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the 
air in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and 
causing corrosion there.

replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the 
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til 
it's clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until 
fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by 
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.



cheers!
e

'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)


On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscanobrian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:


I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:


Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Ernest,

I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
good.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield 
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:

 since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
 odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
 in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
 corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
 garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
 clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
 filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.


 cheers!
 e

 '85 300D(200K+)
 '94 XJ(240K+)



 On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.

 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
 Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.


 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


  __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


  __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Gerry Archer]

My Dodge heater core wouldn't put out any heat at all.  I backflushed it 
with a garden hose for ten or fifteen minutes and the heater then worked 
well until it went to the crusher.

Gerry

From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com

Ernest,
I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed 
the

system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron 
and

not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue 
to

shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are 
otherwise

good.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield 
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:



since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and 
causing

corrosion there.
   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully 
clear.

   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
cheers!
e
'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)

On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, 
what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured 
clean

water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the 
engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and 
rust-free.

 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the 
top

of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower 
radiator

hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from 
if

the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

wrote:

 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron 
block

and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work) beja4a3y

[Dan Penoff]

Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.

I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.

When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
year.  When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored.  =
Figuring that it just needed a good flush and a return to MB coolant, I =
removed it, flushed it and the cooling system, and installed the correct =
coolant. I would add that I also replaced hoses, as the hoses had a =
nasty accumulation of brown discoloration in them that I can only =
suspect was rust.

Within a matter of weeks I started having problems with the temperatures =
rising if the car was moving more than about 40-50 mph.  As soon as I =
crossed that threshold, the temperature would climb a good 10-15 degrees =
above the proper 82F or thereabouts.

Anyway, I removed the radiator and took it to a trusted shop.  The core =
was plugged in the very center but what they said was rust.  Where it =
came from, I have no idea.  When I flushed and refilled the system the =
coolant remained the proper honey color that MB coolant is.

Apparently the core was already clogged, but since I bought the car in =
the winter (relatively speaking) the problem didn't manifest itself =
until the ambient temps got up relatively high.  I can only suspect that =
they were running straight water in the system, and it caused the block =
to rust, as it's the only part in the system that could do so.

Point being, flush the system for sure.  Whether or not you'll continue =
to see the rust/crud in the system is questionable. I doubt it's your =
heater core.

Dan


 From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 Ernest,
 I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
 system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
 radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
 on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
 not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
 core?
 
 I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
 that it may spring a leak!
 
 My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
 coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
 shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
 something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
 with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
 good.
 
 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield 
 erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:
 
 since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
 odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
 in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
 corrosion there.
   replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
 
   i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
 garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
 clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
   then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
 filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.
 cheers!
 e
 '85 300D(200K+)
 '94 XJ(240K+)
 
 On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:
 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
 Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.
 
 
 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[John Reames]

Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

 I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
 spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
 way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
 it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't try
 to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think changing
 the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring I
 could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse water
 through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
 clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both are
 cast iron.
 
 
 On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 
 Maybe those springs?
 
 --R
 
 
 On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
 
 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
 What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
 brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
 removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
 
 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
 
 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.
 
 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
 Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.
 
 
 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:
 
 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.
 
 Did you fix the original problem?
 
 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Scott Ritchey]

My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water
came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small
hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3 years
old) should inhibit corrosion.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
 It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

 What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
 bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
 been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
 perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
 and head.


 On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

Thank for the suggestions.

Where I live, I don't have the option for a garden hose to run for 20-30
minutes.  What I have done instead is to pour gallon jugs of water through
the heater core radiator, and engine.  I am not sure if the garden hose has
enough pressure to make the process go faster than pouring gallons in by
hand.

The problem has been the coolant is still getting dirty.  I don't think the
engine is making rust, but there must be some sticking to parts that is
slowly coming out.  Similar to how synthetic oil can clean out an engine
over time.

The weird part is how the coolant separates, with the heater core or
expansion tank seeming to have more rusty water than the radiator.  I think
this must happen after the engine cools off.  I would think the water pump
moves the coolant around enough that it remains mixed when the engine is
running (except for the expansion tank).


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:05 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 My rescue 300TD had lots of rust and crap too.  I flushed the heater,
 radiator, and engine individually with a garden hose until only clear water
 came out.  I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the small
 hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp.  Fresh coolant (less than 3
 years
 old) should inhibit corrosion.

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
 Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
 work)

 Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.  What
 came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
 and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
 is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
 water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I removed
 the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
 (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

 The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
 of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
 return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
 hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
 holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
 the inside of the engine looks fine.

 On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano
 brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
  bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
   However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
 has
  been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
 100%
  perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
  and head.
 
 
  On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
  compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
  radiator.
 
  Did you fix the original problem?
 
  I think your flushing method failed.
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '95 E300, '87 300TD
  ___
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[ernest breakfield]

heater cores seem to collect crud, regardless of where it originates 
from. until you have an effective flush of that area (read; under 
pressure), it's hard to eliminate that as an area of concern... and if 
you didn't do your fill with the heater set full-on high so that the 
water was circulating through there, it's not likely you got all the air 
out of the system.


i definitely would not just leave it to see what happens; these 
things rarely (if ever!) fix themselves.
i think it unlikely that cleaning out the heater core could *cause* 
any problem, or even accelerate any problem you might already have. even 
if that were to happen, would you rather have that problem while you're 
out driving about at some random point, or when you're already at home?



cheers!
e


On 02/Jun/12 17:51, Brian Toscano wrote:

Ernest,

I have thought the same thing.  After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing.  What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty?  Are they made of steel or iron and
not copper?  Or does the rust from elsewhere just collect in the heater
core?

I am somewhat concerned if the heater core is rusty and I try to clean it,
that it may spring a leak!

My current plan is to leave the system as is for now and see how dirty the
coolant gets over the next 2-3 months.  I suspect the hoses may continue to
shed rust/discolor the coolant.  What I don't want to do is spend money on
something that will not solve the problem.  If I'm going to get rust even
with new hoses, I don't see any reason to replace  hoses that are otherwise
good.


On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:32 PM, ernest breakfield
erne...@backyardengineering.org  wrote:


since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the air
in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and causing
corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.

i'd suggest rinsing the heater core thoroughly, but hooking up the
garden hose to the inlets on the heater core and letting is run 'til it's
clear, then hooking the hose up to the other side. repeat until fully clear.
then read up on how to get the system completely full ('burped') by
filling at the radiator hose, and see if you still have the same problem.


cheers!
e

'85 300D(200K+)
'94 XJ(240K+)



On 02/Jun/12 10:51, Brian Toscano wrote:


Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
  What
came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured clean
water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
removed
the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the engine
(outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and rust-free.
  It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.

The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on the top
of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.

  What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower radiator
hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that spring
holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes from if
the inside of the engine looks fine.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian 
Toscanobrian.toscano@gmail.**combrian.tosc...@gmail.com

wrote:

  I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The

bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
  However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem
has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting
100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Maxmeadedil...@bellsouth.net   wrote:

  Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to

compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



  __**_

http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.  The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
 However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original problem has
been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not expecting 100%
perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron block
and head.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
 compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark
 radiator.

 Did you fix the original problem?

 I think your flushing method failed.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

About a month ago I was in town and rolled the windows down.  I smelled
antifreeze and someone pulled up next to me and said you're leaking
coolant.  My coolant jug was overflowing, but my dash gauge was spot on.  I
got it to a nearby Wal Mart where I could buy supplies and rent a car
nearby.

I rented a car and drove back home to get tools.  The top of the radiator
had a lot of crap in it, but when I removed the thermostat, everything
looked fine.  I changed the thermostat, refilled, and drove home.  I
flushed the cooling system repeatedly to get rid of any crap that had come
loose.

Now what happens is that my coolant expansion tank gets dirty coolant in
it, but when I remove the radiator cap, I see green coolant.  The expansion
tank is at regular atmospheric pressure and connects to the radiator right
by the tank.

I would expect ALL the coolant to look the same color.  That's not what's
happening.

The hose between the radiator and expansion tank has been changed and the
expansion tank is clean.

I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't affect
the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the coolant
seems to separate.  I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is somehow
lighter or less dense and somehow floats to the top and expands out to
the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in the system

Any thoughts?
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Craig]

On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't
 affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the
 coolant seems to separate.  I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is
 somehow lighter or less dense and somehow floats to the top and
 expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in
 the system
 
 Any thoughts?

With as much turbulence that (should!) exist in the radiator when you are
driving (which is when the coolant gets warm and expands) I cannot see
how things would segregate, even if there were some dirty coolant in it.
Do you have an oil leak into the cooling system?


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Brian Toscano]

I don't think there is an oil leak into the coolant. There is a small
amount of black stuff in the expansion tank, but it doesn't look like any
oil in coolant I've ever seen.  It settles to the bottom, unlike oil which
would normally float, and the expansion tank rinses out with tap water.


On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano
 brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

  I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't
  affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the
  coolant seems to separate.  I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is
  somehow lighter or less dense and somehow floats to the top and
  expands out to the expansion tank, whereas the green coolant stays in
  the system
 
  Any thoughts?

 With as much turbulence that (should!) exist in the radiator when you are
 driving (which is when the coolant gets warm and expands) I cannot see
 how things would segregate, even if there were some dirty coolant in it.
 Do you have an oil leak into the cooling system?


 Craig

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system work)

[Max]

Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare 
side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator.

Did you fix the original problem?

I think your flushing method failed.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Dieselhead]

I have seen a lot of different types on MBs.  also depends on if it 
is the original or a third party replacement.



My '81 300TD had a little rubber/plastic plug thing, I think my '83 
240D has a metal bung of some sort...


-Curt

Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 20:08:14 -0400
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q
Message-ID: m1ty6oso0h@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com writes:


 Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking
 for trouble.


I don't even think my W123 has a drain bolt.  Not sure about the W116
have not changed it yet.  I always just pull the lower hose.

In general be very careful with any threaded fittings on the radiator.
This includes oil cooler and transmission cooler connections.  You must
counter-hold the fitting with a second wrench when trying to open these
connections.


Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Randy Bennell]

I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been 
intending to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been waiting 
for me, patiently, I hope.


On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils where 
one must crawl under instead of standing upright with one's $2 oil 
sucker. (As an aside, I bought a more expensive one - to do the oil on 
the boats, but have yet to try it out.) I put a wrench on the drain plug 
in the bottom of the radiator but it did not appear to want to budge. 
Any one think that it is safe to put an impact wrench on it? I wondered 
if a bit of impact might be safer than a long breaker bar.


Not sure that penetrating oil will do much going upwards and not anxious 
to put heat on it given things are soldered together etc. What other 
options do I have?


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Dieselhead]

Pull the lower hose.

I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been 
intending to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been 
waiting for me, patiently, I hope.


On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils 
where one must crawl under instead of standing upright with one's $2 
oil sucker. (As an aside, I bought a more expensive one - to do the 
oil on the boats, but have yet to try it out.) I put a wrench on the 
drain plug in the bottom of the radiator but it did not appear to 
want to budge. Any one think that it is safe to put an impact wrench 
on it? I wondered if a bit of impact might be safer than a long 
breaker bar.


Not sure that penetrating oil will do much going upwards and not 
anxious to put heat on it given things are soldered together etc. 
What other options do I have?


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[andrew strasfogel]

Brilliant.  Now why didn't I think of that.

On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:37 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Pull the lower hose.


 I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been intending
 to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been waiting for me,
 patiently, I hope.

 On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils where
 one must crawl under instead of standing upright with one's $2 oil sucker.
 (As an aside, I bought a more expensive one - to do the oil on the boats,
 but have yet to try it out.) I put a wrench on the drain plug in the bottom
 of the radiator but it did not appear to want to budge. Any one think that
 it is safe to put an impact wrench on it? I wondered if a bit of impact
 might be safer than a long breaker bar.

 Not sure that penetrating oil will do much going upwards and not anxious
 to put heat on it given things are soldered together etc. What other
 options do I have?

 Randy

 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Randy Bennell]

That is way too practical.

Then I won't have cause to post more questions about how to repair the 
bung that I twisted out of my rad, or where the best place to buy a new 
rad is etc.


I might have to try to start a new oil thread.

Randy

On 31/10/2011 2:16 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Brilliant.  Now why didn't I think of that.

On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:37 PM, Dieselhead126die...@gmail.com  wrote:


Pull the lower hose.


I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been intending

to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been waiting for me,
patiently, I hope.

On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils where
one must crawl under instead of standing upright with one's $2 oil sucker.
(As an aside, I bought a more expensive one - to do the oil on the boats,
but have yet to try it out.) I put a wrench on the drain plug in the bottom
of the radiator but it did not appear to want to budge. Any one think that
it is safe to put an impact wrench on it? I wondered if a bit of impact
might be safer than a long breaker bar.

Not sure that penetrating oil will do much going upwards and not anxious
to put heat on it given things are soldered together etc. What other
options do I have?

Randy





___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking for 
trouble.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 31, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

That is way too practical.

Then I won't have cause to post more questions about how to repair the bung 
that I twisted out of my rad, or where the best place to buy a new rad is etc.

I might have to try to start a new oil thread.

Randy

On 31/10/2011 2:16 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
Brilliant.  Now why didn't I think of that.

On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:37 PM, Dieselhead126die...@gmail.com  wrote:

Pull the lower hose.


I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been intending
to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been waiting for me,
patiently, I hope.

On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils where
one must crawl under instead of standing upright with one's $2 oil sucker.
(As an aside, I bought a more expensive one - to do the oil on the boats,
but have yet to try it out.) I put a wrench on the drain plug in the bottom
of the radiator but it did not appear to want to budge. Any one think that
it is safe to put an impact wrench on it? I wondered if a bit of impact
might be safer than a long breaker bar.

Not sure that penetrating oil will do much going upwards and not anxious
to put heat on it given things are soldered together etc. What other
options do I have?

Randy




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Allan Streib]

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com writes:

 Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking
 for trouble.

I don't even think my W123 has a drain bolt.  Not sure about the W116
have not changed it yet.  I always just pull the lower hose.

In general be very careful with any threaded fittings on the radiator.
This includes oil cooler and transmission cooler connections.  You must
counter-hold the fitting with a second wrench when trying to open these
connections.


Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Peter Frederick]

I don't believe I've ever had a problem with an MB coolant drain in  
the radiator.  Most W123s will have a plastic plug with a screwdriver  
slot and an o-ring seal, they don't need to be super tight and don't  
break.


The one on the 280 SE is a standard winged plug sort of drain, but  
it wasn't stuck either.


Later cars even provide a tube to slip some hose over to cleanly  
drain the coolant, it's easy as pie.


Not so much on my buddy's Jeep -- have to pull the grille and  
headlight surround to get to the stinking drain plug, which I need to  
do soon as the thermostat housing gasket is leaking.  Should have  
done it when I did the hoses, but I didn't know it was leaking at the  
time.


Peter

On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:08 PM, Allan Streib wrote:


Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com writes:


Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking
for trouble.


I don't even think my W123 has a drain bolt.  Not sure about the W116
have not changed it yet.  I always just pull the lower hose.

In general be very careful with any threaded fittings on the radiator.
This includes oil cooler and transmission cooler connections.  You  
must
counter-hold the fitting with a second wrench when trying to open  
these

connections.


Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q

[Curt Raymond]

My '81 300TD had a little rubber/plastic plug thing, I think my '83 240D has a 
metal bung of some sort...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 20:08:14 -0400
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q
Message-ID: m1ty6oso0h@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com writes:

 Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking
 for trouble.

I don't even think my W123 has a drain bolt.  Not sure about the W116
have not changed it yet.  I always just pull the lower hose.

In general be very careful with any threaded fittings on the radiator.
This includes oil cooler and transmission cooler connections.  You must
counter-hold the fitting with a second wrench when trying to open these
connections.


Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant

[RELNGSON]

  And yes, the Coscast head is aluminum alloy... 
 
Then you should be using GO-5. Particularly if you are not following the 
recommended change interval. At your peril.

RLE
 
 
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

The nice thing about coolant is that it leaves a white residue behind
after evaporation, so you can easily spot the leak source.  I just found
a loose upper radiator hose on my '87 wagon, happened to notice a wet
spot under the car and popped the hood to find the leak in about three
seconds.  I'm hopping this will cure a persistent coolant loss problem.
I have analyzed the used engine oil three times and found no evidence of
coolant in the oil, so I don't think I have a leaking head gasket.  Have
new expansion tank and cap.

Max

 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 1:31 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

The cap on my exp tank was bad and I replaced it a few weeks ago - was 
hoping that might be causing the leak but no such luck.   As you said,
they 
can look good but be bad.  When I examined the rubber seal I found it
had 
come apart from the metal parts.   Naturally , after I bought one from
Rusty 
I found a new one on my pegboard.

LarryT


OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 10:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

 Yeah they do that too.  As someone else already mentioned, the 
 radiator cap on the tank can look ok and cause problems.  If the 
 coolant only goes down when you drive, look at the tank and cap.  If 
 it goes down while setting, look at the WP, hoses etc.

 I went through a rach of bad Radiator caps on Diesels until I bought 
 new caps for all of them.  A few years ago Marshall or someone 
 recomended replacing the rad caps every ___ years as a matter of PM. I

 never did.  I just replace them when there is a problem.  But the 
 problems I had with the 300D will make me reconsider.  I may go to a 5

 yr. replacement PM program.  Or, by then I may sell the car.  Who
knows?

The mystery leak in my son's 603 300D turned out to be a crack in the 
coolant tank just under a fitting on the side facing the front. Only 
saw it when it got bad enough to see dripping under the car. Saw a 
small stream squirting forward when up to temp and under pressure. 
Liquid steel cured it.

On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
wrote:

  Does the 124 have that little stubby hose between the thermostat 
 housing  and the water pump housing like the 123 does? Thats what 
 was leaking on my  240D...

  I did the waterpump while I was there, I figured that was $45 of 
 cheap  insurance.

  -Curt






--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[LarryT]

Thanks Craig - I never woulda thunk it!  ;-)


OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 8:30 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak


On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 18:59:58 -0500 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:


I'll send in a sample this week and see what the analysis says.



That's a superb idea. I even know where you can send it:



OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net


:-)


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[LarryT]

Thanks for that info!

I also have a new WP  on the shelf.  I changed the T'stat when I bought the 
car as it was stuck open.   I was kind of thinking it was the pump seal 
too - your experience reinforces that opinion.


Was looking at changing the WP  but it looks like a lot of work.   ;-)  Just 
not in the mood...


I'll do an analysis of the oil to insure the head gasket is ok and keep an 
eye on the coolant level.


Thx agn -
LarryT

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 9:57 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

My guess is that you have a water pump seal weeping.  Most of my 603s have 
done this.  On the first one, I did replace the WP and it stopped.  On my 
current 603 300D, it has leaked since I got it. Massively over the winter 
when the car is stored.  No water on the floor ever.  The leak is slow 
enough that there is never a trace.  I ordered a new WP from Rusty the 
first spring, and it is still in the trunk.  Having a spare is good 
insurance that you won't need it.   I do add coolant from time to time, 
(and in the spring)  If the water pump was as easy to change as the OM 
621/615/616/617/M180 etc.  I would have changed it long ago.


It is a good idea to put in a new OE thermostat while you are in there, as 
it is a PITA otherwise.  Be sure to have a new oring for the thermostat 
housing before you start.  Penetrating oil on the Tstat housing bolts etc. 
Use neverseez on reassembly.





Thx guys --I appreciate the info.

   What kind of lifespan do water pumps generally have?  It has 170K now 
and my wife puts about  600 mi. / mo. going to  from work.


   I have zero oil burning or leaking, no white smoke and it starts 
instantly without the blockheater at the end of the 1st pre-glow down to 
the mid teens.It also starts instantly when warm with no signs/smells 
of smoke.  IOW, no signs of a head gasket problem except for the missing 
coolant every other month.  All hoses were replaced


   No odor except the diesel from the leaking DVs.

   With all the noise shielding it's nearly impossible to see signs of a 
leak on the ground.


   Except for the clear coat lifting it's like a new car - everything 
perfectly clean, everything works and drives like new. One day I'll get 
energetic and repaint it.


   I'll send in a sample this week and see what the analysis says.

Thanks ya'll -

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

Head cracks will lead to coolant loss, but also hard cold starts with 
lots of white smoke and very rough running on startup.  White smoke 
smelling of glycol will persist until the engine warms up.


Coolant leaks from a bad head gasket are also known -- usually out the 
exhaust side.


CHEKC THE OIL FOR GLYCOL -- if here is any present, get this fixed pronto 
before you also take out the crank!


Peter



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[LarryT]

The cap on my exp tank was bad and I replaced it a few weeks ago - was 
hoping that might be causing the leak but no such luck.   As you said, they 
can look good but be bad.  When I examined the rubber seal I found it had 
come apart from the metal parts.   Naturally , after I bought one from Rusty 
I found a new one on my pegboard.


LarryT


OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 10:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

Yeah they do that too.  As someone else already mentioned, the radiator 
cap on the tank can look ok and cause problems.  If the coolant only goes 
down when you drive, look at the tank and cap.  If it goes down while 
setting, look at the WP, hoses etc.


I went through a rach of bad Radiator caps on Diesels until I bought new 
caps for all of them.  A few years ago Marshall or someone recomended 
replacing the rad caps every ___ years as a matter of PM. I never did.  I 
just replace them when there is a problem.  But the problems I had with 
the 300D will make me reconsider.  I may go to a 5 yr. replacement PM 
program.  Or, by then I may sell the car.  Who knows?



The mystery leak in my son's 603 300D turned out to be a crack in the
coolant tank just under a fitting on the side facing the front. Only saw 
it

when it got bad enough to see dripping under the car. Saw a small stream
squirting forward when up to temp and under pressure. Liquid steel cured 
it.


On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com 
wrote:


 Does the 124 have that little stubby hose between the thermostat 
housing
 and the water pump housing like the 123 does? Thats what was leaking on 
my

 240D...

 I did the waterpump while I was there, I figured that was $45 of cheap
 insurance.

 -Curt







--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant Leak

[LarryT]

Hello -
   My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quart of coolant every 2 months or so. 
Do these engines have a history of head gasket leaks?  I suspect the water 
pump is weeping a little after 170K miles or so.  I have a new pump but 
haven't been sufficiently moved to replace it.But soon it will be time 
to replace the coolant and that will be a good time to pull the radiator (I 
think it needs to come out to get to the pump, right?) and do a little 
maintenance.


   But if the head gasket needs to be replaced I have some parts to buy...

TIA -

LarryT
91 300D 2.5T

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Frederick W Moir]

LarryT.
I Have two 190DT's, essentially the same engine. The white (Bent) one 
blew the gasket at 120Kmi and I think the Blue one is going. Oil is 
decorating the RF of the engine about where the chain tensioner is.
There is anecdotal evidence that they blow when some idiot (me) goes 
over 161kph with their foot all the way down!

YMMV.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

On 1/16/2010 4:31 PM, LarryT wrote:

Hello -
   My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quart of coolant every 2 months 
or so. Do these engines have a history of head gasket leaks?  I 
suspect the water pump is weeping a little after 170K miles or so.  I 
have a new pump but haven't been sufficiently moved to replace 
it.But soon it will be time to replace the coolant and that will 
be a good time to pull the radiator (I think it needs to come out to 
get to the pump, right?) and do a little maintenance.

But if the head gasket needs to be replaced I have some parts to buy...
TIA -
LarryT
91 300D 2.5T


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea, they do sometimes have head gasket problems but its usually oil 
burning very badly, as in, blowing out the back. In that case, the 
gasket blows out between #1 and the timing chain area.  Never see one 
burning coolant though.


LarryT wrote:

Hello -
   My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quart of coolant every 2 months 
or so. Do these engines have a history of head gasket leaks?  I 
suspect the water pump is weeping a little after 170K miles or so.  I 
have a new pump but haven't been sufficiently moved to replace 
it.But soon it will be time to replace the coolant and that will 
be a good time to pull the radiator (I think it needs to come out to 
get to the pump, right?) and do a little maintenance.


   But if the head gasket needs to be replaced I have some parts to 
buy...


TIA -

LarryT
91 300D 2.5T

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.145/2626 - Release Date: 01/16/10 01:35:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Peter Frederick]

Head cracks will lead to coolant loss, but also hard cold starts with  
lots of white smoke and very rough running on startup.  White smoke  
smelling of glycol will persist until the engine warms up.


Coolant leaks from a bad head gasket are also known -- usually out  
the exhaust side.


CHEKC THE OIL FOR GLYCOL -- if here is any present, get this fixed  
pronto before you also take out the crank!


Peter



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[LarryT]

Thx guys -- 
   I appreciate the info.


   What kind of lifespan do water pumps generally have?  It has 170K now 
and my wife puts about  600 mi. / mo. going to  from work.


   I have zero oil burning or leaking, no white smoke and it starts 
instantly without the blockheater at the end of the 1st pre-glow down to the 
mid teens.It also starts instantly when warm with no signs/smells of 
smoke.  IOW, no signs of a head gasket problem except for the missing 
coolant every other month.  All hoses were replaced


   No odor except the diesel from the leaking DVs.

   With all the noise shielding it's nearly impossible to see signs of a 
leak on the ground.


   Except for the clear coat lifting it's like a new car - everything 
perfectly clean, everything works and drives like new.  One day I'll get 
energetic and repaint it.


   I'll send in a sample this week and see what the analysis says.

Thanks ya'll -

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

Head cracks will lead to coolant loss, but also hard cold starts with 
lots of white smoke and very rough running on startup.  White smoke 
smelling of glycol will persist until the engine warms up.


Coolant leaks from a bad head gasket are also known -- usually out  the 
exhaust side.


CHEKC THE OIL FOR GLYCOL -- if here is any present, get this fixed  pronto 
before you also take out the crank!


Peter



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Peter Frederick]

Check the evaporator drain for coolant, and pressure test the system  
-- those plastic tanks have several failure modes that are not  
obvious except that the cap won't seal.  Test the cap, too.


Although it's cold outside, it's possible that you are getting  
coolant burping into the expansion tank if the cap is bad, and if  
the little hose to the trap tank under the fender is bad (as it  
almost certainly is), you will pump coolant out of a bad cap.


If this is the case, it will boil over and run hotter than normal  
when the weather warms up.


Peter

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 18:59:58 -0500 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 I'll send in a sample this week and see what the analysis says.


That's a superb idea. I even know where you can send it:


 OilAnalysis Time?
 Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
 www.youroil.net

:-)


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Dieselhead]

My guess is that you have a water pump seal weeping.  Most of my 603s 
have done this.  On the first one, I did replace the WP and it 
stopped.  On my current 603 300D, it has leaked since I got it. 
Massively over the winter when the car is stored.  No water on the 
floor ever.  The leak is slow enough that there is never a trace.  I 
ordered a new WP from Rusty the first spring, and it is still in the 
trunk.  Having a spare is good insurance that you won't need it.   I 
do add coolant from time to time, (and in the spring)  If the water 
pump was as easy to change as the OM 621/615/616/617/M180 etc.  I 
would have changed it long ago.


It is a good idea to put in a new OE thermostat while you are in 
there, as it is a PITA otherwise.  Be sure to have a new oring for 
the thermostat housing before you start.  Penetrating oil on the 
Tstat housing bolts etc.  Use neverseez on reassembly.





Thx guys --I appreciate the info.

   What kind of lifespan do water pumps generally have?  It has 170K 
now and my wife puts about  600 mi. / mo. going to  from work.


   I have zero oil burning or leaking, no white smoke and it starts 
instantly without the blockheater at the end of the 1st pre-glow 
down to the mid teens.It also starts instantly when warm with no 
signs/smells of smoke.  IOW, no signs of a head gasket problem 
except for the missing coolant every other month.  All hoses were 
replaced


   No odor except the diesel from the leaking DVs.

   With all the noise shielding it's nearly impossible to see signs 
of a leak on the ground.


   Except for the clear coat lifting it's like a new car - 
everything perfectly clean, everything works and drives like new. 
One day I'll get energetic and repaint it.


   I'll send in a sample this week and see what the analysis says.

Thanks ya'll -

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

Head cracks will lead to coolant loss, but also hard cold starts 
with lots of white smoke and very rough running on startup.  White 
smoke smelling of glycol will persist until the engine warms up.


Coolant leaks from a bad head gasket are also known -- usually out 
the exhaust side.


CHEKC THE OIL FOR GLYCOL -- if here is any present, get this fixed 
pronto before you also take out the crank!


Peter



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Curt Raymond]

Does the 124 have that little stubby hose between the thermostat housing and 
the water pump housing like the 123 does? Thats what was leaking on my 240D...

I did the waterpump while I was there, I figured that was $45 of cheap 
insurance.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 16:31:57 -0500
From: LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Coolant Leak
Message-ID: 14b9268fede0438d8bdaecc0125b7...@laptop
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=original

Hello -
    My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quart of coolant every 2 months or so. 
Do these engines have a history of head gasket leaks?  I suspect the water 
pump is weeping a little after 170K miles or so.  I have a new pump but 
haven't been sufficiently moved to replace it.    But soon it will be time 
to replace the coolant and that will be a good time to pull the radiator (I 
think it needs to come out to get to the pump, right?) and do a little 
maintenance.

    But if the head gasket needs to be replaced I have some parts to buy...

TIA -

LarryT
91 300D 2.5T

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[OK Don]

The mystery leak in my son's 603 300D turned out to be a crack in the
coolant tank just under a fitting on the side facing the front. Only saw it
when it got bad enough to see dripping under the car. Saw a small stream
squirting forward when up to temp and under pressure. Liquid steel cured it.

On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Does the 124 have that little stubby hose between the thermostat housing
 and the water pump housing like the 123 does? Thats what was leaking on my
 240D...

 I did the waterpump while I was there, I figured that was $45 of cheap
 insurance.

 -Curt






-- 
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak

[Dieselhead]

Yeah they do that too.  As someone else already mentioned, the 
radiator cap on the tank can look ok and cause problems.  If the 
coolant only goes down when you drive, look at the tank and cap.  If 
it goes down while setting, look at the WP, hoses etc.


I went through a rach of bad Radiator caps on Diesels until I bought 
new caps for all of them.  A few years ago Marshall or someone 
recomended replacing the rad caps every ___ years as a matter of PM. 
I never did.  I just replace them when there is a problem.  But the 
problems I had with the 300D will make me reconsider.  I may go to a 
5 yr. replacement PM program.  Or, by then I may sell the car.  Who 
knows?



The mystery leak in my son's 603 300D turned out to be a crack in the
coolant tank just under a fitting on the side facing the front. Only saw it
when it got bad enough to see dripping under the car. Saw a small stream
squirting forward when up to temp and under pressure. Liquid steel cured it.

On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Does the 124 have that little stubby hose between the thermostat housing
 and the water pump housing like the 123 does? Thats what was leaking on my
 240D...

 I did the waterpump while I was there, I figured that was $45 of cheap
 insurance.

 -Curt







--
OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Curt Raymond]

Sounds like my experience... Its quite snowy here today, enough that 
snowmobiling too precedence over cars ;)
I'll work from home Monday and do the deed...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 16:58:05 -0600
From: Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed
Message-ID:
    3485b4231001011458pf074230ucb4eb82c36414...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Curt wrote:

Anyway its not a terrible job and the little hose was just about to
really blow so I'm glad I got in there. Worst news of the day was that
the replacement belt I'd bought (forever ago) for the alternator was
too small, a good inch under the old one, so I couldn't possibly get it
into place.

The Beck-Arnley parts place said there were 2 belts - when I purchased
a belt last year.  The longer one was the one that fit - I think the
difference was an inch.
mao


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Curt Raymond]

Up here NAPA is the most expensive FLAPS around...
Plus the belt on the car is missing a couple chunks which means I need a belt 
SOON. My 190D has to get out of service so it can donate its engine to the 
new 190D so the 240D has to get back into service.

Plus the belt I have came from Rusty... Nothing against him, I've had it for 
probably 8 or 9 months and should have tried to put it on before now.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 16:22:36 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed
Message-ID: 20100101162236.0cb1add5.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 14:14:33 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Worst news of the day was that the replacement belt I'd bought (forever
 ago) for the alternator was too small, a good inch under the old one, so
 I couldn't possibly get it into place. The old one is pretty poor but I
 got the Car Quest (our FLAPS) number off it so I'll buy a replacement.
 That belt is probably 6 years old which is pretty good service I think.

When I was in Texas, I found that buying belts from Rusty, including the
shipping, was cheaper than buying belts at NAPA.


Craig


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Allan Streib]

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

 Up here NAPA is the most expensive FLAPS around...

NAPA and CarQuest are more costly than the McParts stores (Advance,
AutoZone, PepBoys, O'Reilly, etc.) but they still stock mostly decent
quality stuff.

The McParts stores parts, in my experience, are bottom of the line.  If
you're buying brand-name oil or coolant or something like that it really
doesn't matter, but for things like belts, alternators, water pumps,
brake parts, etc. you are going to get absolute minimum barely meets
the specs quality.

You'll notice they tend to be located in the same areas as Wal Mart, Big
Lots, Dollar General, etc. and there's a reason for that.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Curt Raymond]

I really like our local Car Quest, the guys know their stuff, the prices are 
reasonably competitive too. I bought G05 there last week for $12/gal which 
considering Prestone 50/50 premix is $6.50 at McParts I figured was a good deal.

The best part about our Car Quest is that I can walk there and they'll let me 
bring my dog inside...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 02 Jan 2010 16:52:15 -0500
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed
Message-ID: m1k4w0cgz4@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

 Up here NAPA is the most expensive FLAPS around...

NAPA and CarQuest are more costly than the McParts stores (Advance,
AutoZone, PepBoys, O'Reilly, etc.) but they still stock mostly decent
quality stuff.

The McParts stores parts, in my experience, are bottom of the line.  If
you're buying brand-name oil or coolant or something like that it really
doesn't matter, but for things like belts, alternators, water pumps,
brake parts, etc. you are going to get absolute minimum barely meets
the specs quality.

You'll notice they tend to be located in the same areas as Wal Mart, Big
Lots, Dollar General, etc. and there's a reason for that.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Curt Raymond]

Christmas morning we piled into the 240D to go to the in-laws, got a couple 
miles away and realized we'd forgotten some things so turned around and came 
home. In the driveway I noticed the grill steaming. The little hose just below 
the thermostat housing was leaking...

Today I finally got a chance to get in there, I'd bought a waterpump too just 
in case. 

Whoever said this is a 20 minute job must have thinner arms than mine or knows 
how to get the blasted fan shroud out of there. I've got big scrapes and 
bruises on my forearms...

Anyway its not a terrible job and the little hose was just about to really blow 
so I'm glad I got in there. Worst news of the day was that the replacement belt 
I'd bought (forever ago) for the alternator was too small, a good inch under 
the old one, so I couldn't possibly get it into place. The old one is pretty 
poor but I got the Car Quest (our FLAPS) number off it so I'll buy a 
replacement. That belt is probably 6 years old which is pretty good service I 
think.

Only lost about 3/4 a gallon of coolant which I was surprised at...

-Curt



  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Mountain Man]

Curt wrote:
 Anyway its not a terrible job and the little hose was just about to really 
 blow so I'm glad I got in there. Worst news of the day was that the 
 replacement belt I'd bought (forever ago) for the alternator was too small, a 
 good inch under the old one, so I couldn't possibly get it into place.

The Beck-Arnley parts place said there were 2 belts - when I purchased
a belt last year.  The longer one was the one that fit - I think the
difference was an inch.
mao

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[Craig McCluskey]

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 14:14:33 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Worst news of the day was that the replacement belt I'd bought (forever
 ago) for the alternator was too small, a good inch under the old one, so
 I couldn't possibly get it into place. The old one is pretty poor but I
 got the Car Quest (our FLAPS) number off it so I'll buy a replacement.
 That belt is probably 6 years old which is pretty good service I think.

When I was in Texas, I found that buying belts from Rusty, including the
shipping, was cheaper than buying belts at NAPA.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed

[John Reames]

Iirc, one of them is 1000mm long and the other is 1037mm long. If yo  
dig in the EPC, there's a footnote about which one is earlier, which  
one is later, and what VIN or engine S/N is the breakpoint.



--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jan 1, 2010, at 5:58 PM, Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com wrote:


Curt wrote:
Anyway its not a terrible job and the little hose was just about to  
really blow so I'm glad I got in there. Worst news of the day was  
that the replacement belt I'd bought (forever ago) for the  
alternator was too small, a good inch under the old one, so I  
couldn't possibly get it into place.


The Beck-Arnley parts place said there were 2 belts - when I purchased
a belt last year.  The longer one was the one that fit - I think the
difference was an inch.
mao

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Coolant leak figured

[Curt Raymond]

So Christmas morning we headed to the in-laws in my 240D with plans to go from 
there to my parent's house (about 150 miles away). Got about 5 miles from the 
house and realized we'd forgotten something, got home and went to the house but 
realized something was wrong with the car. 

You know that odd feeling you get when you've got past but realize something 
was wrong?

Went back and the grill was steaming... Under the hood the little stub hose 
thing below the thermostat housing had a pinhole and was peeing coolant.
Crap.

Piled all our junk into the Ranger and took that for the weekend. Rusty has a 
hose (and water pump) somewhere in transit for me already... This is why I have 
3 cars.

I'm off to DC tomorrow, will worry about this when I get back.

-Curt



  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

[Curt Raymond]

Its the first thing to try anyway.

Anybody know the size? I'd rather buy a piece of hose first than yank it and 
take the shredded nasty remnants to size up...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:18:05 -0800
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 8fb56226-e614-11de-a63b-000502d9a...@windwireless.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 #2 the little stub hose under the thermostat housing. It looks quite 
 suspicious. IIRC its a strange size, anybody know it? The one there is 
 really nasty, years of oil dripping on it haven't done it any  favors...

That's often to blame, because it's harder to replace than
the others and out of sight, out of mind.

-- Jim


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

As I recall it is an odd size and the dealer doesn't sell it except in
bulk.  I replaced one on a 300TD using a calipers and generous
behind-the-counter time at local autoparts place to find a hose that was
close enough.

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:49 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

Its the first thing to try anyway.

Anybody know the size? I'd rather buy a piece of hose first than yank it
and take the shredded nasty remnants to size up...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:18:05 -0800
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 8fb56226-e614-11de-a63b-000502d9a...@windwireless.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 #2 the little stub hose under the thermostat housing. It looks quite 
 suspicious. IIRC its a strange size, anybody know it? The one there is

 really nasty, years of oil dripping on it haven't done it any 
favors...

That's often to blame, because it's harder to replace than the others
and out of sight, out of mind.

-- Jim


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives
http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

[Curt Raymond]

Thanks Max. The last time I replaced one was on my 300TD and my Indy gave me a 
short piece of it. My little town is graced with a good old school parts shop. 
I'll measure as best I can and see what they've got.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 09:56:42 -0500
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,    53310
    meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
    
1370e90cffd2ac4b8cb65267ba10c4b801db9...@naeachrlez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil
    
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii

As I recall it is an odd size and the dealer doesn't sell it except in
bulk.  I replaced one on a 300TD using a calipers and generous
behind-the-counter time at local autoparts place to find a hose that was
close enough.

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:49 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

Its the first thing to try anyway.

Anybody know the size? I'd rather buy a piece of hose first than yank it
and take the shredded nasty remnants to size up...

-Curt


  
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

[Dieselhead]

Yes, good test.  Then shut off the engine, and take a mirror and look 
at the underside of the water pump.  Another method is to get all 4 
wheels up on blocks, then crawl under with a small flashlight, and 
look for a stream of water.(this can be done with the engine 
running. )


The short hose can be replaced with 3/4 heater hose.  Try to find 
good quality hose.  You can try to find the leak, but I'd change the 
WP and the hose, and any other hoses that look questionable.  I'd bet 
2 cents that the WP is the culprit.  Since you will have a good part 
of the coolant drained anyway for either repair, I'd just do whatever 
looks soft/old (hoses) and the WP.


WP is not hard to change.  3 or 4 10mm bolts to get the fan  off the 
WP.  THen a few more bolts to get the WP off the WP housing.  (5 or 6 
10mm)  Radiator can stay in.  The fan (clutch) sits on the WP shaft 
after the bolts are out.








I've had the best luck finding leaks by filling the system, getting the
engine up to operating temp, and looking for the stream of water while the
engine is still running.

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Took a look at my 240D tonight to see if I can figure out where the coolant
 loss is occuring. I filled it back up and went for a spin to warm it up.
 When I got back the only place I could definitely see coolant is from the
 overflow tube. I'd filled it right to the top so a little overflow seems
 quite normal to me.

 This evening after work when I checked it it was down below the top of the
 tubes and on the way to work the cabin heat wouldn't heat until the engine
 fully reached operating temp which is a standard sign on this car that the
 coolant was low. It needed about 2 quarts to be filled.

 I have 2 suspects:
 #1 the radiator cap. I replaced it in '04 I think, maybe '03. It looks fine
 but...

 #2 the little stub hose under the thermostat housing. It looks quite
 suspicious. IIRC its a strange size, anybody know it? The one there is
 really nasty, years of oil dripping on it haven't done it any favors...

 -Curt


 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss

[Fmiser]

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 Its the first thing to try anyway.

Rusty sells it for about $15.

My records show it's part number 900-271-042012
and is applicable for OM616 and OM617 engines with new style,
vertical thermostat, with bypass and snowman seal.

 Anybody know the size? I'd rather buy a piece of hose first
 than yank it and take the shredded nasty remnants to size up...

I once used a piece cut out of a spare Chevy pickup upper
radiator hose. Didn't fit right - but it worked for months.

Measurements from my parts bin.
 
New hose:
ID - 40 mm (1.57 inch)
OD - 53 mm (2.08 inch)

hose length, new:  70 mm (2.75 inch)
hose length, removed from service: 45 mm (1.77 inch)

--  Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com