If you have a NAPA nearby I would get one there. You can look at it before you
walk out, and if there are problems with it you will have someone local to deal
with and a hassle-free return/exchange.
Autozone, Pep Boys, and others also warranty what they sell but they are a
lower tier in terms o
FWIW I bought a Dorman manifold crossover for my '95 Crown Vic a while
back. It was good quality. Things change over time.
Greg
> The brake master cylinder seems to be failing on my old toada sienna
> family
> truckster. This vehicle is too old to justify the price of an OE one, so
> Iâm cons
Especially with no brakes
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:17 AM, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Sienna is one of the least safe vehicles on the road if I recall correctly.
> Fix it and get rid of it!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 7:57 AM, ned k
Sienna is one of the least safe vehicles on the road if I recall correctly. Fix
it and get rid of it!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 17, 2021, at 7:57 AM, ned kleinhenz via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> The brake master cylinder seems to be failing on my old toada sienna family
> truckster. This vehi
A.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 8:13 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I didn’t have one for that car. All the ones I had were for later gas cars.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 9:00 AM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
>> wrote:
>>
>> Speaking o
I didn’t have one for that car. All the ones I had were for later gas cars.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 9:00 AM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Speaking of washer tanks, I thought you were going to send me one for my
> W124?
>
>
> Bob R
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> O
Speaking of washer tanks, I thought you were going to send me one for my W124?
Bob R
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 7:56 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I think they’re different than the “regular” grommets, so be sure to check
> the part numbers. I seem to recall there
I think they’re different than the “regular” grommets, so be sure to check the
part numbers. I seem to recall there was something different about the grommets
on this tank.
-D
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 9:53 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I was going to tackle it this past weekend b
I was going to tackle it this past weekend but realized I should probably
replace the grommets too which I did not have on hand.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 8:39 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> The washer fluid tank is a major PITA to replace. Ironic that they’re so
>
The washer fluid tank is a major PITA to replace. Ironic that they’re so
brittle when they age, causing even a casual glance at one to shatter it. You
know it’s bad when the dealer stocks them for a car that they stopped making 15
years ago.
-D
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 9:36 AM, Kaleb Striplin via
I have to replace the washer tank. I have a new one ready to go. This thing was
supposed to be a flipper but may end up having to keep it a while.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 7:56 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I tried everything else and got nowhere until I replaced
How much is a new MC?
Last time I bled brakes, following a MC replacement in a hotel parking ramp, I
bought 20 feet of clear hose (fish tank air line, about $10 from Walmart pet
department) and then ran a line from right rear caliper bleed screw back up to
MC reservoir. Open bleed, pump the br
I tried everything else and got nowhere until I replaced the MC. It wasn’t a
bad job, kind of tight, though, like everything on these MLs. G-d forbid you
have to replace the windshield washer fluid reservoir. That is a stinking
nightmare.
-D
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 8:53 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mer
Perhaps I just need to replace the MC.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 7:52 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Interesting, as I had the exact same issue with the former ML500. Pedal
> wasn’t soft or bled down, but the travel seemed way too long, even after
> pressure bleedin
Interesting, as I had the exact same issue with the former ML500. Pedal wasn’t
soft or bled down, but the travel seemed way too long, even after pressure
bleeding the system when I replaced a stuck right rear caliper. It seemed like
it almost went to the floor before you got any braking action.
The thing that had me wondering about the MC is when it was leaking fluid and
got low the pedal would go all the way to the floor. Wondered if pushing it too
far ruined the seals in the MC. It does not seems to slowly sink though but
will drive it again and pay more attention.
Sent from my iPh
Pedal does not go to the floor. Just too much travel. When I bled it this last
time I basically ran a whole large bottle of fluid thru it. Some of the
calipers took a while before I started seeing bubbles in the clear tube. After
they quit I let it run for a while after before closing the bleede
> Always thought bad master cylinder was a slowly sinking pedal.
Or brakes that won't release. The OP's problem sounds like it's
not bled correctly. Especially since he didn't touch the MC mechanically.
-- Jim
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To search list arc
Always thought bad master cylinder was a slowly sinking pedal.
If pedal travel is too far, the pushrod on the pedal needs to be
adjusted?
Spongy or pedal to the floor is air in the lines. Guess that could also
be a bad wheel cylinder or caliper, leaking line, etc.
Allan
Kaleb Striplin via Merc
Yeah check all you’re break calibers If your petal goes to the flour
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Jan 4, 2021, at 10:22 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Or perhaps a bad caliper. I have similar symptoms and the MC was recently
> replaced. If your foot goes to the floor then it'
Or perhaps a bad caliper. I have similar symptoms and the MC was recently
replaced. If your foot goes to the floor then it's definitely the MC.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 8:16 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> What are symptoms of a bad master cylinder? On this ML I
When you say "lines" do you mean at the master cylinder?
There is a line on either side of the sensor.
Cracking the lines there might re-center the pin.
Bleeding the brakes did not solve the problem. The light is still on.
RB
On 24/08/2015 11:00 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
IIRC, it was to o
IIRC, it was to open one set of lines, step on the brake pedal, then close
the first and open the second, step on the brake, then close them all. I'd
bleed the system first. Then again, maybe I'm not remembering correctly . .
.
On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 10:25 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
merce
I seem to remember that there was a procedure for re-centering the
switch, but I don't remember what it was.
Peter
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I think it will be corrected when you bleed the brakes - that allows the
pressures to balance again.
+1 If there is air in the rear circuit, the pedal may feel ok and
the stopping may appear to be normal, because the front brakes do
70-80% of the stopping. Bleedem, rear first.
___
I think it will be corrected when you bleed the brakes - that allows the
pressures to balance again.
On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 4:10 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> On 24/08/2015 4:00 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> Perhaps there really is a pressure imbalanc
On 24/08/2015 4:00 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
Perhaps there really is a pressure imbalance?
Yes, and that might be corrected when I bleed the brakes.
If it corrects when I bleed the brakes, I will be happyy.
RB
___
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To searc
Perhaps there really is a pressure imbalance?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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On 24/08/2015 3:07 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
Randy, I think Philip is on to something. If you have your owner's manual
there should be an explanation for that light, and I think it is a simple float
sensor to warm of low brake fluid. The same light may also indicate when the
parking
On 24/08/2015 3:04 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
Randy wrote:
One issue that remains, and I had hoped would be solved in
all of this is the brake warning light on the dash still
does not wish to go out. I believe it to be the sender that
warns of an uneven pressure between front and back.
Anyon
Randy, I think Philip is on to something. If you have your owner's manual
there should be an explanation for that light, and I think it is a simple float
sensor to warm of low brake fluid. The same light may also indicate when the
parking brake is applied, which may be a simple switch at the p
> Randy wrote:
>
> One issue that remains, and I had hoped would be solved in
> all of this is the brake warning light on the dash still
> does not wish to go out. I believe it to be the sender that
> warns of an uneven pressure between front and back.
> Anyone know anything much about this?
I h
You can't beat the price.
Michael E. Esh
231 894 5505
> On Jun 11, 2015, at 6:11 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=310053&cc=1193666&jnid=482&jpid=0
>
> So what do you think?
> I am tempted to try it and see what happens.
>
> RB
>
will just tear up again if the bore is corroded. At least a reman has
the bore bored out then these things used.
--R
On 6/11/15 6:11 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=310053&cc=1193666&jnid=482&jpid=0
So what do you think?
I am tempted to
Not I BTDT and won't again.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=310053&cc=1193666&jnid=482&jpid=0
So what do you think?
I am tempted to try it and see what happens.
RB
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.
Advance Auto has remans here for a little over $100. The same at Autozone.
The MBUSA part is around $220.
Amazingly, Advance also has brake boosters for this car for barely $100. I
thought they would be a lot more expensive.
Dan
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 8:48 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes
>
I think I got one was like $45 from flaps
--R (sent from my miniPad)
On Feb 21, 2015, at 7:10 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
wrote:
Those are plentiful and relative cheap to replace.
On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 6:06 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Sounds possibl
Those are plentiful and relative cheap to replace.
On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 6:06 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Sounds possible.
>
> A giveaway is if you sit at a stop with your foot on the pedal and it
> leaks down. Clear indicator that the cups on the master cylin
Sounds possible.
A giveaway is if you sit at a stop with your foot on the pedal and it leaks
down. Clear indicator that the cups on the master cylinder piston are leaking.
Dan
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Clearly, I'm the king of Junkers. I borrowe
The reservoir actually has a round volume beneath the rear sensor, and a
squarish volume beneath the front sensor, with what appear to be floats
in them that come up to the vent caps (2 of these next to the sensors).
>From what I can see looking in the cap hole, they look like they are not
con
On Wed, 7 Nov 2007 22:25:16 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Brake fluid is a mild paint remover so cover the fender too.
And if it doesn't remove the paint, even a small amount spilled onto the
paint and then quickly removed will cause the paint to "crinkle" like the
old crinkle finishes. Had that
In a message dated 11/7/2007 6:50:14 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
So after messing around to check the vacuum on the 79 TDs brakes, I
finally figured it must be the master cylinder (as someone suggested,
but I needed to check the vac anyway). So I have the ne
The cap opening shows both chambers on some, but I think on that one
(sort of triangular dual tank?) you just fill up the front one until it
overflows into the rear chamber. Make SURE the rear chamber always has
fluid in it, else you just pump air into the lines.
I use a MitiVac to bleed the b
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