You'll be fine with DC. If you can't see a visible difference in brightness
across the tube then it probably doesn't matter. People say there are
lifespan issues with DC but I haven't seen that yet on my VFD clocks. I
just use DC and bias the grid ~ -3vdc.
On Thu, Jun 15, 2023, 10:45 PM Richard
Wait seriously $55 for IN-14? I'm going to sell of my stash and plan a
European vacation...
On Fri, Jun 11, 2021, 12:39 PM Bill Notfaded wrote:
> 55$ for an IN-14... geesh! It's fine grid but what?
>
> Bill
>
> On Thursday, June 10, 2021 at 2:24:48 PM UTC-7 nickja...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good
I think they are IN-8. I have a clock made with them right next to my
television and it was a nice coincidence.
-w7qi
On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 2:09 PM Kevin A. wrote:
> I've been watching the HBO miniseries about Chernobyl (which is very
> entertaining without disrespecting most of the facts).
$45 each is the type of great price most folks wont mind hearing. That's a
2005 price. I'll contact off list, I've never bought in-18s but always
wanted some for a clock. Side view nixies are silly expensive nowadays if
you don't already have boxes of them.
-w7qi
On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 5:09 AM
I would be more tempted to find a user radio and add a digital nixie frequency
display. Any old user Swan, for example.
-W7QI
-Original Message-
From: Jonathan Peakall jpeak...@madlabs.info
Sent: 5/31/2015 1:26 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject:
Is everyone getting these, or just me?
-Adam
On 4/10/2014 10:01 PM, neonixie-l+nore...@googlegroups.com wrote:
neonixie-l https://groups.google.com/d/forum/neonixie-l Google
Groups https://groups.google.com/d/overview Logo for Google Groups
https://groups.google.com/d/overview
Thanks, Nick! My apologies for asking a question already answered.
-Adam
On 4/11/2014 7:17 AM, Nick wrote:
Read the group! I posted about this earlier today... it's a cunning
type of SPAM that purports to come from the group itself, therefore
cannot be marked as SPAM else the group would ban
I can tell you that if you want to advance one of these clocks in your
house hours at a time by remote control, all you need to do is work some
CW in the basement. :D
-Adam
On 3/17/2014 2:38 AM, Nick wrote:
Being fair, this clock was designed a long long time ago when stuff
directly
It really depends on what you're doing as far as if a metcal would be
worth it or not... but I'm thinking that if you have to ask for
recommendations then you don't need one.
I'm a real fan of Weller soldering irons. I've had a blue handled
Weller for nearly my whole life and it never steered
This is an issue that is most obvious on clocks with lots of
functionality. If there are different modes/menus that display numerals
on a tube that are not normally lit as part of the clock, then you'll
see this. Best advice is to take full advantage of automated
cathode-poisoning prevention
02:44, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us
mailto:a...@jacobs.us wrote:
Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only
ever used it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the
stuff. Dipping in molten solder usually works to remove the
enamel, with a clean-up
Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only ever used
it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the stuff. Dipping in
molten solder usually works to remove the enamel, with a clean-up pass
using sandpaper.
My favorite protoboard wire is the old 80-wire PATA ribbon
always run it though a bench PSU with a current limit
set, then just play with some resistors (or a wire wound pot /
rheostat) until the figures work out...
- Alex
On Friday, 6 December 2013 19:41:13 UTC, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Hi Gideon,
You're doing it wrong. :)
We do not normally
Hi Gideon,
You're doing it wrong. :)
We do not normally refer to filaments by their impedance, but rather by
their power draw. What is the equivalent resistor value of a 100watt
incandescent lightbulb? There isn't one, because filaments and resistors
behave differently. For starters, a
this on my
phone but i do not think your formula is going to work. R_1 is before
and after the = sign.
I will look at it tomorrow morning
Op 6 dec. 2013 20:41 schreef Adam Jacobs jacobs.a...@gmail.com
mailto:jacobs.a...@gmail.com:
Hi Gideon,
Ā You're doing it wrong. :)
We do
Yep, exactly. I can take a picture of how I place them, but basically it
ends up being a sort of square or rectangle. I leave about a centimeter
of lead above the protoboard so that the tube can be gently twisted the
right way.
-Adam
On 12/4/2013 2:26 PM, David Forbes wrote:
Gideon,
The
Well, Sure, minus the upside down 2 for a 5. :) But plus the HORRIBLE 4
numeral.
I like the 5's in the IN-8-2's, but the 4's are bad enough that I
switched back to IN-14's back in the day.
Now, neither of those nixie tubes are cheap enough for me to use in new
designs. All of my stockpile of
I will use the IN8 pins, That's the whole reason I opted
for IN8-2.
Thanks for your input. I appreciate it!
Chris
On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 11:12:11 AM UTC-7, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Well, Sure, minus the upside down 2 for a 5. :) But plus the
HORRIBLE 4
Hi David,
I used to think it was strange too and always included the clock
functionality in the microcontroller. However, I was always fine-tuning
the accuracy. I believe that someone was posting to this list a little
while back about his own Atmel microcontroller clock-code accuracy issues.
Time-setting as well as time-getting and displaying will need to be done
on the Microcontroller.
The RTC relies on receiving an I2C message with the time to set; it
doesn't have any mechanism for connecting buttons or such directly.
'find out whether this is going to work' is probably something
Hi Gideon,
What are you studying at university? We're starting to get to the
point where you should be able to start figuring it out. Definitely
shouldn't look like voodoo...
Start with the Datasheet:
http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX6921-MAX6931.pdf
The datasheet tells us
a friend of mine who is a lot better at written programming
languages can help me a bit.
Op donderdag 21 november 2013 21:47:33 UTC+1 schreef Adam Jacobs:
Hi Gideon,
What are you studying at university? We're starting to get to
the point where you should be able to start figuring it out
Congratulations!
I've always been a big fan of Maxim's sampling policy. I've even abused
it (obviously, since I have a drawer-full of their stuff). The only
times that I've had them object to any part of a sample request, I was
requesting DIP samples. Anything PLCC or surface mount, they're
FYI David:
On the clock that I built with IV-11 tubes, I initially started with
an anode voltage of 60v; which is the median multiplexed voltage as per
this datasheet: http://www.tromop.eu/cms/media/IV-11%20datasheet.pdf and
a 1/6 duty cycle (16.67%). That clock was bright. Couldn't sleep in
6-7 dollar
a piece +1 euro for a plcc socket, I am trying to keep the costs down
a bit. So a method to avoid using these drivers is preferred.
HV5812: cheap but shipping costs are 40-50 dollar
MAX6921 expensive and/or high shipping costs
Op dinsdag 19 november 2013 20:06:50 UTC+1 schreef Adam
You definitely need to know where your deadlines are in any legal
disagreement. Learn them, write them down, and be happy that you didn't
lose more than $40.
-Adam
On 11/15/2013 11:35 AM, Dylan Distasio wrote:
Jon-
If you paid with PayPal, have you opened a separate case with them?
I
Hi John,
I haven't done anything with AVR chips in a couple of years now, but
I can only add that I've felt your pain. I built a lot of clocks using
AVR parts, in a variety of designs and with a variety of AVR chips...
and they all had strange repeatable timer issues. I do think that the
Holy cow... an automotive DC/AC inverter for 1 penny?
I'm not as brave as this man, not by a long shot. Every crazy cheap
powersupply I've ever bought from China was a fire hazard. I have to
assume that this thing is also a fire hazard. :)
-73 Adam W7QI
On 10/10/2013 2:15 PM, Jonathan
Perhaps it is a feature? I can kind of see a new coined phrase
jelly-bean capitalization.
-Adam
On 5/17/2013 5:07 PM, pewter wrote:
To Those That Queried Capitalising The First Letter Of Each Word. This Had
Happened Since MY Phone Updated To Jelly Bean. It Only Happens With Some
It does look like mostly a giant pile of junk... and I agree, there is no
telling how many IN-18's are left in the cartel's secret hoard. One thing
is for certain: Although every other nixie tube price continues to
increase, the IN-18 has stayed bizarrely stable.
-Adam
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at
There definitely has to be a very limited sort of customer base for an
auction such as this one.
Kind of reminds me of the Polaroid film Impossible Project people..
They bought the old factory, all of the equipment, and even hired back a
ton of the employees. I'm still floored that there is
Great Question! I Also Wondered About Such A Thing.
On 5/7/2013 4:54 AM, Terry S wrote:
What Prompts A Person To Capitaize The First Letter Of Each Word They
Write?
On May 7, 4:06 am, pewter ke...@briston-norfolk.co.uk wrote:
Has Anyone Had Any Experience And/Or Can Offer Help Regarding
MY FAVORITE IS TO POST AS THOUGH TYPING
ON A COMMODORE 64. THERE WAS A TIME
WHEN A BBS POST FROM A C64 WAS
INSTANTLY RECOGNIZABLE AS SUCH. OH, THE
GOOD OLD DAYS.
On 5/7/2013 10:01 AM, Nick wrote:
Spelling grammar police not welcome here!
Having said that, it's a weird way of posting.
their 6581 SID.
-Adam
On 5/7/2013 10:15 AM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
I loved the C64...I still play some games (using an emulator)
occasionally on my Macwww.c64.com http://www.c64.com has all the
games from yesteryears.ah, memories.
On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 10:14 AM, Adam Jacobs jacobs.a
Is it possible that you are piggy-backing somebody else's wi-fi, Nick?
Sounds like you might be on the Upside-Down-Ternet...
http://www.ex-parrot.com/pete/upside-down-ternet.html
-Adam
On 5/6/2013 8:14 AM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
Did the picture open upside down? I just noticed at my work
network at home, so that's not the issue;-)
That's a funny link though! Thanks for sharing..
On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 8:16 AM, Adam Jacobs jacobs.a...@gmail.com
mailto:jacobs.a...@gmail.com wrote:
Is it possible that you are piggy-backing somebody else's wi-fi,
Nick? Sounds like
I was trying to explain this phenomena to a Canadian friend of mine. Guns
are a cultural thing in the US. If you're not originally from here, it may
not be something that makes a lot of sense... but it's just part of normal.
I own some guns as well. Most americans I know own guns.
My Canadian
of the IN12's
will raise to IN18's levels...
Just seeing the IN14 prices skyrocket is enough...
Gaston
On Wednesday, March 13, 2013 5:55:18 PM UTC-3, Adam Jacobs wrote:
I think that (based on the current supply of nixies), if I was to
design and build a new clock right now I would use IN-12
Is a 1970's nixie clock design really the best idea in this day and age?
I mean, unless there is something really neat going on with the
industrial design?
Electronics have come a long way since then. a Nixie clock built using
TTL logic is probably not the most cost-effective (or feature
I like 4-digit clocks as well as 6-digit. Nerds tend to like their
6-digit clocks, it is nice to see the numbers changing. Spouses tend to
like the 4-digit versions better, in my experience. I own both types and
have built both types.
I like both types. :)
-Adam
On 3/13/2013 11:41 AM, kay486
I think that (based on the current supply of nixies), if I was to design
and build a new clock right now I would use IN-12's.
-Adam
On 3/13/2013 1:44 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
The one nixie clock I've seen on Kickstarter took a different angle on
things...
That is one cool power tetrode you've got there, Nick. The datasheet
alone would make me want to build a linear amplifier around it if I had
one. 500w CW at up to 60mhz and 335w to 175mhz? I have no idea how
difficult it is to tame the self-oscillations at the higher frequencies
on that tube,
Comments like this one should have been made in private, I think.
Sorry, didn't mean to feed the troll. :S
-Adam
On 2/15/2013 1:55 PM, Greg P wrote:
C'mon Ray, what's taking so long, it's been almost 2 months. I guess
it's another failed promise.
On Dec 31 2012, 2:32 am, MichaelB
Words to live by.
On 2/5/2013 3:15 PM, Terry S wrote:
Sorry, I don't click on any link with mindfuck in it.
On Feb 5, 4:49 pm, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
For lovers of neon art, Brucw Nauman has an (adult) exhibition on in London at
Hauser Wirth in Savile Row until March 13th...
It was neat to see how proud he (woz) was of his nixie watch when I met
him. Woz seems like the kind of nerd that gets excited about good
electronics designs. I suppose that is where the Apple came from, after all.
-Adam
On 1/2/2013 12:49 PM, Michel wrote:
The Woz will soon wear my version
I don't have any stake in the Ray story... Wasn't around back then,
never paid any money, never expected any product, etc.. The ensuing
drama is nothing more than an interesting story to me.. Entertainment,
as it were.
I'd like to second the recommendation that the FLW design be given to
the
I found this at radiomuseum.org:
quote
At this point, I should clarify the difference between the IN-9 and the
IN-13
The IN-13 takes up to 5mA for a 12cm orange glow from Neon gas, and has
three electrodes. One perforated cylinder as the anode, a central wire
cathode for the glow, and a
.. with 828 total dekatrons, maybe a few replacements and spares _IS_
a whole complement of tubes.
-Adam
On 11/20/2012 7:24 AM, JohnK wrote:
That is what I remember hearing.
I offered them tubes on their list and a lead on the trigger tubes
they needed - got the intial discussion and then
Order from ramsey with caution. It takes them an unbelievably long time
to get around to shipping anything (think on the order of a month)..
their shipping rates are very expensive, and their kits often come with
incorrect parts.
The good news is that they'll work with you to send you the right
Thanks for the timely explanation of your process, I was just about to
head down this road of printing my first single sided boards at home.
Any recommendations for a first timer? I do have a laserjet 4 already.
:) (and a somewhat newer laser printer as well). I have experience in
film
Does anyone have an eaglecad part for a lithium battery holder? I'm
thinking one of the small 3v types like the CR2 or CR123 or really
anything that is 3v and not a coin cell. I'm not good enough in eaglecad
yet to trust myself to make a custom part, I figure somebody must have
done this
Steve Wozniak looked pretty pleased with his when he was showing it to me.
-Adam
On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 4:16 PM, J Forbes jforbnos...@selectric.org wrote:
THis doesn't seem to reflect reality.at least the reality of myself
and the others I know who own David's nixie watches.
On
I wonder how much of it works?
I think that he should rename the auction:
Need a new hobby? Try this one! LEARN TO REPAIR TUBE OSCILLOSCOPES AND
MISCELLANEOUS TEST EQUIPMENT in your spare time! (Caution: This auction
requires but does not include a large self-storage unit. Divorce
attorney
Hello,
You should not place a linear regulator (7809) between the
transformer and the boost switching supply. Go ahead and remove it. The
only components I would place between the transformer and the input to
the high voltage supply are maybe a 1n4007 protection diode and one or
two bypass
There is a chance that you have a bad 74141. I would try disconnecting
the 74141 inputs from your uC and try grounding them all. Does
everything turn off? try pull one of the inputs high and verify that the
correct number is lit. I'd do this before proceeding.
If the 74141/Nixie circuit works
I love it! It brings to mind the old fashioned art of electronics prior to
the PCB.
I think that I would need to practice with making some much smaller
circuits before attempting something like this. Great design.
-Adam
On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 11:12 AM, MichaelB badni...@badnixie.com wrote:
Somehow I missed the part where they're full power on the 6m band and
partial power on 2m. Sounds like some nice finals to me.
-Adam W7QI
On 10/3/2012 4:05 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote:
WOW! Who's complaining? Build yourself a nice little CW transceiver or
linear amplifier.
Those old power pentodes
I believe that the singing issue is primarily a problem with larger
nixie tubes, of which I have no (as of yet) experience. I've never had a
problem with singing tubes with IN-12, IN-14, IN-8, IN-8-2, IN-16, IN-17
tubes.. but these are pretty small tubes (18mm digit height or less).
never had a
You forgot the other pro's:
- reduced power consumption
- dramatically increased tube life at equal cathode current.
--
The point is that there isn't a right answer or a religious opinion.
To multiplex or not is really a design decision which should be made
based on your product
I've definitely used a few inductors that buzzed nastily before. The
sound of a coil contracting around a ferrite repeatedly.
That's one advantage of using one of those ugly acrylic box cases. :)
Great at noise dampening.
-Adam
On 9/20/2012 11:24 AM, jb-electronics wrote:
Hi there,
On Thu,
That was my point, really, I was trying to stay in the same reference
frame as your post. Given equal cathode current in both cases, the
multiplexed device will have lower brightness and greater tube life.
Given equal cathode current, the direct driven device will have higher
brightness and
I've also seen hot-glue used, especially if the potting is to lower RF
noise.
I'm a big fan of hot glue. I don't know where I first heard the
expression Non-conductive solder, but I've latched onto it happily.
I also like that it easily dissolves in acetone.
-Adam
On 9/20/2012 6:33 PM, Terry
PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
Ascending and descending orange glow tubes, why wouldn't it sell! I'd
probably tinker with one...;-) Why only 7 channels? May I ask what
frequency ranges you decided to sample?
Nick
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 2:28 PM, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us
mailto:a...@jacobs.us
Mind sharing the component part number?
On 9/19/2012 2:41 PM, Dan Foster wrote:
As for why 7 channels, I found a little IC that breaks down audio into DC
components (7 to be exact). I have found a fft that runs on AVR
microcontrollers but am not sure of its accuracy or how quick it is. So for
I don't think that multiplexing is a bad idea.. On the contrary, it should
extend the life (provided that you don't drive the tubes at more current
than they are rated for). That's the key, really.. I think that most people
drive the tubes at significantly higher than rated currents when they
For in the bedroom, I find the 1x6 mux (at standard current) to be of
acceptable brightness. On the contrary, a 1x6 mux VFD clock that I built is
_way_ too bright for the house (like you can't sleep for the blue glow). I
took the VFD clock to the office and it looks fine there.
Relative brightness
I recall a long while back, people were looking into the feasibility of
using various Supertex parts for driving Nixies. Can anyone comment on
their findings?
Thanks,
-Adam
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group,
Additionally, finding the real sockets to the tubes can be easier said
than done.
Some sockets are common, others are like hen's teeth..
-Adam
On 9/11/2012 11:38 AM, jb-electronics wrote:
Yep.
Sounds like it would be easier to just get the sockets if I can find
them...
It depends on your
I was thinking of that as well... What is the voltage needed to cause
ionization in air?
-Adam
On 9/4/2012 11:48 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
gassy are no use - it
Wow, this is great! Very timely, too! I just found a nice little scope tube
at a swapmeet for $1 the other day, looks like I've got no excuse to not
light it up now.
Thanks again.
-Adam W7QI
On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 3:07 PM, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:
That is really nice, the characters look
Michail,
Was this seller a domestic (USA) seller? If so, then you can normally
sue for your damages in small claims by affidavit.
If they're a ukrainian seller... well, good luck.
-Adam
On 8/31/2012 8:49 AM, micha...@aol.com wrote:
The first videos are here.
Correct, small claims must be filed in the state of the merchant/seller.
However, most states/municipalities will allow filing by affidavit if
you don't live there. Call the Philadelphia municipal courthouse and ask
for their information packet regarding filing small claims from out of
state.
that offer
legal advice without law degrees.
-Adam
On 8/31/2012 11:08 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Correct, small claims must be filed in the state of the merchant/seller.
However, most states/municipalities will allow filing by affidavit if
you don't live there. Call the Philadelphia municipal
That is a neat part, too bad that it is no longer in production. Looks
like Components Direct sells them individually.
http://www.componentsdirect.com/maxim-ds275-pdip-8-package-rs-232-transceiver.html
I'm not sure that I would start a new design for manufacture with them,
though.
-Adam
On
that the reed switches aren't
cool and all (I've got some I built that way), but overall, it can be a
hassle to try to find the magnet before you set your clock.. and it is
trickier as well.
-Adam
On 8/23/2012 12:19 PM, Quixotic Nixotic wrote:
On 15 Aug 2012, at 00:12, Adam Jacobs wrote
I agree with one of the other posters... I think that the best place to
start is with an existing design. There are tons available on the
internet, you can order parts from mouser.com
-Adam
On 8/16/2012 9:36 AM, Frederick Heald wrote:
Just curious - why not build a kit clock or two to get
I built a clock around the 6-digit version of this chip... and then I
was so impresesed with it, I built another with the 4-digit version.
It is a _very_ well designed nixie clock chip. Moses clearly put a lot
of work into polishing the design.
-Adam
On 8/16/2012 10:01 AM, westdave wrote:
I use processors and this doesn't seem elementary to me!
I wouldn't say that a microcontroller is more difficult to use than
straight logic. On the contrary, I always refer to my penchant for using
microcontrollers as cheating.. or the software engineer's way out:
Only design enough
Sparkfun isn't bad. Also Limor Fried (ladyada)'s site:
http://www.adafruit.com
Limor is a member of this group and a great person to deal with.
Radio Shack... They're trying to make a comeback into this area of
retail, time will tell if they succeed. My experience has been that they
cost about
... and my wife thinks that _MY_ clocks are tricky to set!
On 8/15/2012 3:54 PM, chuck richards wrote:
On the 12/24 selectable version of the '160 clock,
when it is in 12-hour mode, the thumbwheels must be
left preset for 0100.
Then, as David said, it loads that after 12:59:59
Chuck
Also, I should add This is the reason that there is such a thing as
a User Interface Engineer.
;)
On 8/15/2012 4:05 PM, chuck richards wrote:
That is why I vastly prefer the straight 24-hour only
version of this circuit. It has simpler logic, one less
gate package, and when you are done
That's a good idea, especially if you can get them for cheap. I think
the 2032 might even have a higher maximum current draw than the 9v.
(Probably a lot less total power, though). Do they make lithium 2032's?
I guess that would spoil the point of cheap, though.
How about silver oxide 357
Thanks for the education, David!
-Adam
On 8/14/2012 8:23 AM, David Forbes wrote:
On 8/14/12 8:17 AM, Adam Jacobs wrote:
That's a good idea, especially if you can get them for cheap. I think
the 2032 might even have a higher maximum current draw than the 9v.
(Probably a lot less total power
Hi Sean,
If it was me, I'd probably start with the designs that don't use a
microcontroller. There are lots of all-logic designs out there, here is
the famous one:
http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/nixclock.html
Start out by studying existing circuit designs. Also, you might want to
invest in
This is actually common practice in circles that use mobile vacuum tube
radios. Placing a stack of 9-volt batteries in series (which are
themselves, actually a stack of 1.5v cells in series) to create a modern
B battery. This works fine, since the B battery is a low current
draw supply.
I think that I've probably separated a few 9v that kids snapped together
as well. They just look so doggone tempting.
http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=304704
-Adam
On 8/10/2012 1:57 PM, David Forbes wrote:
On 8/10/12 11:26 AM, Frank Bemelman wrote:
Why fiddle with
One more thing, that I'm always repeating If you find yourself needing
an obscure item from an obscure manufacturer that is not sold by digikey or
mouser, don't be afraid to call up the manufacturer and ask for a sample.
They won't sell it to you directly (probably.. unless you want 50,000 of
I guarantee that the IN-12 was selected because it is available for
cheap and in high quantity.. The fact that it is also 18mm digit height
is bonus. (Sad to say, 18mm digit height nowadays is considered very large.)
The IN-17 would also be a good solution, since it is also cheap, but I
think
Hey, I'm interested if nobody else is. :) I'm sure I can find something
in my collection to trade.
Can one of the bi-quinary masters in the group fill me in on the
advantages of these types of tubes? Better multiplex, maybe?
-Adam
On 7/16/2012 7:23 AM, Jonathan Peakall wrote:
Hey now, those
I'm certain that I'm already on plenty of government watch lists, simply
from all of the suspicious packages that I receive from the Ukraine
Russia...
-Adam
On 7/3/2012 1:50 PM, Jan Rychter wrote:
On 2 lip 2012, at 19:33, Terry S wrote:
I'll wager that Dieter also has a growing bin, laden
Looks like they are about $40/each on ebay, same (rough) price that they
have been for the last 5 years. I think that when I started with this hobby
about 8 years ago, they might have been $30-$32/each. Oddly, IN-18's have
been one of the most stable priced nixies in the nixie market. which might
Hi Matthew,
You've actually already got the answer: Off is 80-100v. Unlike LED's,
Nixies change state from a very high impedance device (below the
ignition/striking voltage) until the ignition voltage is achieved, where
they become very low impedance. The nixie will stay very low impedance
Another stepping stone you might consider (although it is completely
backwards) would be a 16-segment VFD based FLW.
I know that I personally would be very interested in such a device,
given the significantly higher VFD availability than B7971. VFD's are
common cathode and are voltage regulated
That is interesting. My guess is that there are lots of lazy engineers
out there that have figured out that the part works OK on 5v. That's why
experimentation is so important. If I was going to make a WAG, I'd bet
that it works at 5v although probably at slower speeds. Try it with 5v
if it is
I understand your point, Terry.. Which I think is the classic Slippery
Slope argument. You get used to cutting corners, before you know it
you're trying the same tricks at work where you design nuclear reactor
cooling systems, the systems fail due to your design choices that were
outside of
:40 pm, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
Just super-impose the two pictures, that is the best solution. Getting a
shot where the watch (a small near object) and the moon (a very very
far
away object) are anything close to similar in size on the final image are
going to be nearly impossible
Just super-impose the two pictures, that is the best solution. Getting a
shot where the watch (a small near object) and the moon (a very very far
away object) are anything close to similar in size on the final image are
going to be nearly impossible. You could try it with focus-stacking, but
even
.. and even then, I always have a look at those 2 negative feedbacks. If
the seller has 99.995% feedback but the handful of negs in the past
month look really crooked, I won't buy. Also, at this point, I pretty
much won't buy anything from a seller that is in NJ. I don't know why,
but NJ is
You don't specify, but if you are using 74141's, then I would say that
is very normal. I believe that each 74141 uses 25ma of current.. So,
150ma just in the driver IC's. Worse, if you're using a linear regulator
to get that 150ma @ 5v, then you are turning the rest of your
wall-wart's voltage
Hm. My first guess is that maybe your search terms on ebay weren't very
good.. or maybe the search term you are using is one that only criminal
sellers use and ebay recently cracked down? I'm just speculating.
I find that it is best to use the actual model number of the device in
the search.
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