LDR?
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I have a couple of applications where I'd like to use EL panels... but my
issue is the relatively short life of EL panels.
I'd love to use some OLED panels... but the issue there is cost.
Good luck; keep us posted.
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On Friday, 12 April 2013 19:29:02 UTC-5, GastonP wrote:
Hi again Zitt...
All of the changes seem for good... but just for the sake of
simplicity... did you try with only a pull-up resistor to the U3A inputs to
see if you could bring the levels to CMOS ones? Actually, CMOS with 5 V
Updated schematics are posted here:
http://www.Pinball-Mods.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Bally7NixieFabB.pdfhttp://www.pinball-mods.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Bally7NixieFabB.pdf
Fab B changes:
- Changes around D[5..7];
- reworked for transistor inverters with
On Friday, April 5, 2013 8:01:34 AM UTC-5, GastonP wrote:
Zitt,
The problem is not that it is an open drain or a CMOS (it is a CMOS and
I put it as so in my first email). The problem is that the base MPSA42
conected directly to the output effectively shorts the output to ground
unless
On Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:03:19 AM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
The 4503 is an tri-state device -- do you need pullups on the outputs?
I can't tell from a quick glance how you are using it. How about
series resistors to the bases of the transistors? I see those on A1
thru A4. Without some
with a minimum beta of 25 for the kathode drivers; IB would be 80uA
given a 2mA emitter current.
On Thursday, April 4, 2013 5:12:31 PM UTC-5, Zitt wrote:
On Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:03:19 AM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:
The 4503 is an tri-state device -- do you need pullups on the outputs?
I can't tell
Work on the Nixie display has stalled because I can't seem to find the
cause of a specific problem.
Last week I put the “Tested” nixie display into my Bally Star Trek; and
sadly – only digits A4-A1 work. A5, A6 won’t light.
Tonight I cut the D5 trace between Q5 and U4; and hard wired from the
(clickable links and embedded pictures at:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=2391595postcount=43)
The Mirror project was put on hold for the last three weeks... First due to
the SxSw Intel LANfest I was hosting... and then Texas Pinball Festival
this past weekend. Now that I had
On Saturday, March 23, 2013 10:02:51 AM UTC-5, jrehwin wrote:
Initial debug turned up a dumb assembly mistake..– I swapped U1 U2
despite the clear labels on the silkscreen.
Silkscreen? That looks like a protoboard. I'm unsure what U1 and U2 are
anyway, most of those supplies only use
PCBs were ordered via batchpcb yesterday. so Now I play the waitin for PCB
game.
On Saturday, February 9, 2013 6:20:26 PM UTC-6, MrNixie (UK) wrote:
Yes, I kinda missed the point that you were building a drop-in module
and would thus be limited to the signals and supplies at the connectors.
; limited by drop in design to existing display. 190VDC is the
incomming PSU rail for a normal display. It's 190+-5Vdc.
Zitt is wrong in saying Xenon had nixies instead of the usual VDF
displays. Bally never used VFDs (but Gottlieb did). Xenon never had any
nixie tubes either, nor did any US
You could maybe regulate the nixie current (instead of using LEDs) so
the active display is brighter than the inactive one.
Hadn't considered. Truth be told; I saw the LED back lit clocks and
basically thought it was a cool idea.
Maybe I'll do that on Rev2.
On Thursday, February 7, 2013
You guys are more knowledgeable on NIXIE displays; so I'm interested
feedback on the schematics and if you see any obvious design errors.
I can’t claim originality here... as I remember the XENON pinball machine
at a past TPF which had NIXIE tubes instead of the standard VFD displays. I
always
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