I've got a bodywork question maybe you guys can help out with too.
I bought some Purple Power De-Ruster (phosphoric acid) at Advance Auto
Parts, and it did a great job at converting some pretty nasty rust back
into fairly shiny looking steel on my chrome header pipes. However, it was
$8 per
Yes to make sure they are not torn.
On Feb 13, 2012 8:45 AM, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote:
Got a key made finally this weekend. Ended up at a locksmith who was able
to make the key from the code. Pulled the carb rack out of the PineSol
finally last night. It took a
It's odd that in the Clymer's manual it doesn't mention them, and I can do
one without taking the carbs off the rack, but I don't know about the
other. I'll try to pull them tonight.
On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 2:53 PM, Robert Kariniemi
robert.karini...@gmail.com wrote:
Yes to make sure they are
Ok, I don't know where to find a replacement for the fuel passage plugs
that were covering the idle jets. It sounds like these plugs are
important, and they were both in terrible shape when I took them out to
clean things up. They came out with about the same consistency as
marshmallows, and one
Got a key made finally this weekend. Ended up at a locksmith who was able
to make the key from the code. Pulled the carb rack out of the PineSol
finally last night. It took a little spraying with carb cleaner and
blasting air through the passages, but I'm satisfied it'll flow enough fuel
now.
There was a little bit of sludge on top of the seals. All dried out
though. There was no pressure in the forks when I opened them up either.
I think that if they will hold pressure I'll deal with them as is for the
moment and replace when I get my tax return in.
On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 12:07 AM,
Try a Honda dealer. I got a key cut for $10 from the code off the
cylinder.
On Feb 7, 11:03 pm, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote:
Pat,
I pulled the ignition this weekend and checked with keysbycode.com who told
me the code on my ignition (also on the inside of the gas cap)
Hi Anthony,
I called a dealer a couple weeks ago and they referred me to a locksmith.
I'll try another dealer though. I would like to think a dealer could
lookup the code and cut it for me, but the 82 seems to be a bit of an
in-between year where I've had a number of things be slightly different
I have my rack of 650 carbs soaking in a 1:1.5 pine sol: water bath, since
Sunday. The liquid looks really dirty at this point. I'll take that as the
solution is working!
Kurt
On Feb 6, 2012 9:48 AM, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote:
The strategy that worked out for me was
Lovers] Re: '82 CB450SC project question(s)
I have my rack of 650 carbs soaking in a 1:1.5 pine sol: water bath, since
Sunday. The liquid looks really dirty at this point. I'll take that as the
solution is working!
Kurt
On Feb 6, 2012 9:48 AM, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote
Mine went in to soak Saturday night, and even though I still can't get the
slides out, I did get the float needles out, so I take that as a sign it's
working and will continue to let it work. I went with the Publix generic
version because it had more pine oil, but I wonder if it's not the
I would imagine it is a combination of both. I also wonder if perhaps a
cleaner with limonene would work better, ie an orange cleaner.
Kurt
On Feb 7, 2012 9:11 AM, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote:
Mine went in to soak Saturday night, and even though I still can't get the
Slide came out of the carb tonight. [image: applause.gif] Still took some
careful gentle prying to get it to break loose, but much less effort than I
was trying initially with no success. Passages are looking pretty clear
but I'll give it another day before I start drying it out.
Next thing I
IMHO, those tubes are shot. They have to be perfect, in order for the seals
to not leak. Not to disuade you from trying to clean them up, but I don't
think those are salvageable. Others here are more knowledgeable than I am
so, I'm hoping they chime in too. Usually fork tubes can be had on ebay
Here is a complete set $150 buy now price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-Honda-CB450SC-Nighthawk-forks-fork-set-and-triple-tree-Straight-good-seals-/230665206369?hash=item35b4b7ba61item=230665206369pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessoriesvxp=mtr
On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 10:11 PM, Allen Thomas
With respect to the rusty forks, I think what really matters is if there is
rust in the part of the tube that travels inside the fork. I cannot tell
from the picture if there is actually rust in that part. If they are clean
enough there, then no damage will be done to the seals. Can you feel if
Those forks look pretty bad.
You could pop-off the rubber dust cover's to see if there's any sludge
(dirt/oil) at the seals.
There isn't much travel.
I had forks so pitted that changing the seals didn't help.
Some Kid admired the low drag bike look.
B-550
On 02/07/12, Javier Garcia
The strategy that worked out for me was using an impact driver, which
finished removing the slots in the head, but also managed to create just a
little wiggle, which allowed me to use vice grips to finish backing out the
screw. I'm sure the PB Blaster I let soak into it contributed too. I
think
Motorcycle Lovers! nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, Feb 5, 2012 14:37:40 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '82 CB450SC project question(s)
Old-timers tip:
A dab of valve grinding paste in the slots of phillips head screws
will give your screwdriver more traction with less chance
What if you put it in some hot water to get the aluminum To expand?
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 4, 2012, at 1:24 AM, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote:
Ok, so 2 specific technical questions I ran into taking the first carb apart
tonight. I'm trying out the embedded
-
From: Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 01:24:50
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '82 CB450SC project question(s)
Ok, so 2 specific
Thanks for the assurances that soaking should help. I'm wishing I had
picked up an impact driver as recommended, but I don't know if it would
have helped me anyways. I was trying to loosen the last screw holding on
the top cover and thought it had come loose but it looks like I stripped it
Kevin, spray PB Blaster on the screw and after a some time try vice
grips or some sort of pliers with good teeth. You just need to break
it loose
On Feb 4, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Kevin Green wrote:
Thanks for the assurances that soaking should help. I'm wishing I
had picked up an impact
I've got a handheld impact driver kit similar to this:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-29200.aspx?utm_source=googlebaseutm_medium=cseutm_term=LIS29200utm_campaign=googlebase_18ugclid=CMnd-OP5hK4CFRN3hwodVGe8Yw
that I used successfully to back out the bolts on my carbs without damaging any
of
- aka use /both/ an impact driver and a screw extractor. I never had hope in
the extractors because they never worked for me until I put them at the end of
the impact driver.
On Feb 4, 2012, at 10:17 AM, Kevin Green wrote:
Thanks for the assurances that soaking should help. I'm wishing I
good idea, Graham
On Feb 4, 2012, at 1:40 PM, James O'Gorman wrote:
- aka use /both/ an impact driver and a screw extractor. I never
had hope in the extractors because they never worked for me until I
put them at the end of the impact driver.
On Feb 4, 2012, at 10:17 AM, Kevin Green
Yeah, I ran into old rusted screws when I was sprucing up the carbs on my
82 650. Its worth the minimal investment to go to a hardware store with a
couple of the old screws and replace them all with fresh ones, even if
they're not that bad. I too used an EZ out bit with great success after
You might be able to use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull as you turn.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 4, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Kevin Green kevin.green.thunderb...@gmail.com
wrote:
Thanks for the assurances that soaking should help. I'm wishing I had picked
up an impact driver as recommended,
: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '82 CB450SC project question(s)
Yeah, I ran into old rusted screws when I was sprucing up the carbs on my
82 650. Its worth the minimal investment to go to a hardware store with a
couple of the old screws and replace them all with fresh ones, even if
they're not that bad. I too
+1 on the Pine Sol soak. Ratio is 2 parts Pine Sol to 1 part water in
a container large enuf to submerge a rack of carbs. No need to boil.
May require soaking for 2 or 3 days depending on condition of the
carbs. Advantages of the method -- it also cleans the outside
surfaces (and the linkages,
I found a thread on advrider:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
Looks like a great option. I'll see if I can't get the carbs opened up and
soaking soon.
Currently finishing up closing up the motor so I can get oil back in it.
The head is back on but I need to get the right
Ok, so 2 specific technical questions I ran into taking the first carb
apart tonight. I'm trying out the embedded photos so let me know if they
don't show up.
1) The float needle didn't come out with the float the way the manual said
it would. In fact the gasket that seems to hold it in is very
Your float needle is probably gummed in there; it's been sitting with the
same gas for two decades, right? Definitely some deposits.
Your slide piston is probably the same way, just soft seized from sitting
too long. You can give them an overnight soak and see if that helps your
problems any.
I
Thanks. I'll try the Pine Sol soak for a while then before I get any more
physical with them. The deposits that I can see are terrible, so I can
imagine there are others I can't see that are just as bad if not worse.
Apparently gas really doesn't do well when left for 25+ years.
--
You
You're right, gas doesn't do well over time and the more time the
worse.
Keep soaking and don't get impatient. Unlike the more severe dips
that rely on some nasty solvents, this stuff is cheaper and more
benign and just takes awhile longer. But it will do the job just as
well eventually.
The
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