On Wed, 29 May 2002, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
From everything I'm reading on the NGs, HC-110(b)
seems to be the general-purpose developer of choice.
(nothing like ressurecting a week old thread...)
Anyways, I ended up picking up some HC-110 concentrate, but haven't
actually used it yet. I
On Wed, 29 May 2002, William Robb wrote:
Hi Glen, I have pretty much settled on HC:110 for the Jobo, and
Ilford ID-11 for inversion.
As I said in the message I just sent, I picked up some HC-110. I've been
previously using Sprint Systems Developer, which they say is a match for
D76 1+1 or
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of gfen
On Wed, 29 May 2002, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
From everything I'm reading on the NGs, HC-110(b)
seems to be the general-purpose developer of choice.
(nothing like ressurecting a week old
Plain glass bottles will work if you store the stuff in the dark until
you're ready to use it.
Len
---
-Original Message-
From: gfen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 12:55 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Home developing -- details, details
On Wed, 29 May
On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, tom wrote:
I bought some of the cheap brown plastic jugs at a camera store. They
work ok, but I go through the chems pretty quick, so if there were a
problem I probably wouldn't know it.
This is probably wiser than my planned attempt to just buy bottles with
hydrogen
FWIW,
I've used Microphen with T-max 100 and it worked just fine - exactly as I expected it
to - no problems with respect to rating of the film.
By rating the film lower (i.e. overexposing by one stop) , if developed normally, it
should increase contrast in the film. However, different
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of gfen
Fumble fingered? Debatable. Unfortuantly, I just threw out
a collection of
old Kahula and Skyy vokdabottles (you've got to buy in bulk
when swilling
white russians like water...)
It didn't
Lauder's Scotch Whiskey comes in green plastic 1/2 gallon bottles. And
it's priced at just twenty bucks for the half gallon. It's actually
quite good: tastes a lot like Dewars White Label. And the bottles are
great for darkroom chemicals. Of course, the accordian chemical bottles
that you can buy
On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, tom wrote:
Amen, you really should come down to GFM next year.
I would've enjoyed this year, and someone kept trying to tempt me with
tales of their 645 and Arstat 30mm fisheye. :)
Alas, I have no driver's lisence, and I don't think I'd have been able to
hitchhike that far.
Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:
Another posting from yesterday which hasn't shown up yet
(1) Do any of you have comments on the practice of presoaking roll film
in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the developer? That is,
load the roll on the reel, then immerse into a
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peifer, William
(1) Do any of you have comments on the practice of
presoaking roll film
in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the
developer?
I don't think it gives you any
In a message dated 5/29/2002 9:03:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
(1) Do any of you have comments on the practice of
presoaking roll film
in water
The only films I presoak are infrared.
Ed
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To
I didn't write that.
--
Thomas Van Veen Photography
www.bigdayphoto.com
301-758-3085
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:16 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Home developing
TV wrote:
[Lots of helpful comments on my home darkroom questions -- snipped]
Hi Tom,
Thanks very much for the reply. That's exactly the kind of information I
was looking for. Especially interesting about the practice of presoaking.
I wasn't sure if this might be better than a few solid
Hi Bill ...
(1) Do any of you have comments on the practice of presoaking roll film
in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the developer?
I don't see any reason to do it, although Tom's point about loading wet
reels makes sense. The real key is to be consistent in what you do.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peifer, William
Hi Tom,
Thanks very much for the reply. That's exactly the kind of
information I
was looking for.
No problem.
Especially interesting about the practice
of presoaking.
I wasn't
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
XTOL, as Tom suggested, may be a good choice as well, but there have
been enough comments about poor experiences using XTOL that
many people
shy away from it because they believe it
Many negative comments on the Leica lists, the Rollei list, CVUG, if I
recall correctly, on Greenspun, Pure Silver, etc. However, there are
quite a few comments that are favorable as well. OTOH, I've never heard
similar comments about D-76, ID-11, HC-110, Acufine ... you name it.
Is there a
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Many negative comments on the Leica lists, the Rollei list,
CVUG, if I
recall correctly, on Greenspun, Pure Silver, etc. However,
there are
quite a few comments that are favorable as
- Original Message -
From: gfen
Subject: Re: Home developing -- details, details
I think I'm in way over my head, these days. I actually
thought I had teh
basics pretty well laid out, but its becoming clear that I do
not.
If someone here would be kind enough to offer a suggestion
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
I haven't tried X-Tol, though if Tom keeps raving on, I might
have to.
When I started down this evil path, I tested D-76, XTOL and Microphen
at various dilutions. I think I threw some
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