Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Robert Wright via Phono-L]

I definitely didn't see any of that the first time around! Wow, this really 
gives me something to work with, thank you! I'll try a couple spare pieces of 
wood for practice. Thanks, Rich! And thank you for sending it again!

Robert



On Jan 13, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Rich via Phono-L  wrote:

> That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications medium 
> at best.
> 
> Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac which is 
> the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days for the wax and 
> bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color and it then thinned 
> to the consistency of water, use a high dollar professional watercolor brush 
> only for best results. Apply enough coats of shellac to almost fill the 
> blemish and then use the violin varnish for the top coat. Use rottenstone and 
> hard felt pad with paraffin oil to clean up the edges once varnish has dried. 
> Using Behlen Behcol thinner is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol 
> as a substitute. If Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from 
> liquor store. This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy 
> once you collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.
> https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products
> 
> --Rich
> 
> On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>> I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the info.
>> 
>> *From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via Phono-L 
>> 
>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
>> *To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
>> *Cc:* Rich
>> *Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
>> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
>> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
>> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
>> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
>> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
>> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
>> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
>> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
>> --Rich
>> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get most 
>>> of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was that the 
>>> arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but I think the 
>>> hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk that was making it 
>>> so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the moving parts with 
>>> 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of it to guard against 
>>> any kind of moisture left over.
>>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a bit 
>>> involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Robert
>>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
>>> mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
 You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
 finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
 mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not use 
 polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the pad to 
 avoid squeal.
 Ron
>>> ___
>>> Phono-L mailing list
>>> http://phono-l.org
>>> Unsubscribe: phono-l-unsubscr...@oldcrank.org
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Ron L'Herault via Phono-L]

I use the Testors gold model paint to touch up lines on Edison Cylinders and
have used it in combination with water colors and a final coat of shellac to
restore damaged Edison banners.

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 7:56 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

Testors Airplane Dope is a liquid and not airplane glue. It is basically 
a lacquer and it dries rock hard and also shrinks so no brush marks and 
ripples. Testors also supplies a thinner for it.

On 1/13/19 6:47 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
> What would you use to thin airplane glue? Any normal paint thinner?
> 
> *From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
> Phono-L 
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 13, 2019 5:51:58 PM
> *To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
> *Cc:* Rich
> *Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
> No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned
> cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit
> soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is
> Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.
> 
> On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:
>> And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?
>> 
>> Ron L
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
>> Phono-L
>> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
>> Cc: Rich
>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
>> 
>> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
>> 
>> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
>> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
>> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
>> 
>> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
>> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
>> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
>> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
>> 
>> --Rich
>> 
>> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
>>> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
>>> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
>>> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
>>> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
>>> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
>>> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
>>>
>>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
>>> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Robert
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
>>> mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>>>
 You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
 finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
 mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
 use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
 pad to avoid squeal.
 Ron
>>>
>>> ___
>>> Phono-L mailing list
>>> http://phono-l.org
>>> Unsubscribe: phono-l-unsubscr...@oldcrank.org
>>>
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>> 
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

Testors Airplane Dope is a liquid and not airplane glue. It is basically 
a lacquer and it dries rock hard and also shrinks so no brush marks and 
ripples. Testors also supplies a thinner for it.


On 1/13/19 6:47 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

What would you use to thin airplane glue? Any normal paint thinner?

*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
Phono-L 

*Sent:* Sunday, January 13, 2019 5:51:58 PM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned
cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit
soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is
Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.

On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.

Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?


Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
pad to avoid squeal.
Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Robert Wright via Phono-L]

What would you use to thin airplane glue? Any normal paint thinner?

From: Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via Phono-L 

Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 5:51:58 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned
cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit
soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is
Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.

On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:
> And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?
>
> Ron L
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
> Phono-L
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> Cc: Rich
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
>
> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
>
> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
>
> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
>
> --Rich
>
> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
>> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
>> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
>> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
>> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
>> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
>> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
>>
>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
>> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Robert
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
>> mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>>
>>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
>>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
>>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
>>> use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
>>> pad to avoid squeal.
>>> Ron
>>
>> ___
>> Phono-L mailing list
>> http://phono-l.org
>> Unsubscribe: phono-l-unsubscr...@oldcrank.org
>>
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>
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned 
cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit 
soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is 
Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.


On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.

Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?


Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
pad to avoid squeal.
Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Ron L'Herault via Phono-L]

Reading this I can see that you are talking about wood finishes.

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 9:20 AM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications 
medium at best.

Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac 
which is the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days 
for the wax and bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color 
and it then thinned to the consistency of water, use a high dollar 
professional watercolor brush only for best results. Apply enough coats 
of shellac to almost fill the blemish and then use the violin varnish 
for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad with paraffin oil to 
clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen Behcol thinner 
is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a substitute. If 
Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor store. 
This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you 
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.
https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products

--Rich

On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
> I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the 
> info.
> 
> *From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
> Phono-L 
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
> *To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
> *Cc:* Rich
> *Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
> 
> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
> 
> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
> 
> --Rich
> 
> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get 
>> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was 
>> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but 
>> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk 
>> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the 
>> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of 
>> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
>> 
>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a 
>> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Robert
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
>> mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>> 
>>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
>>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
>>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not 
>>> use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the 
>>> pad to avoid squeal.
>>> Ron
>> 
>> ___
>> Phono-L mailing list
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>> Unsubscribe: phono-l-unsubscr...@oldcrank.org
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Ron L'Herault via Phono-L]

And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be 
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac 
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing 
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material 
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying 
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get 
> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was 
> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but 
> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk 
> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the 
> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of 
> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
> 
> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a 
> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Robert
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
> mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
> 
>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not 
>> use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the 
>> pad to avoid squeal.
>> Ron
> 
> ___
> Phono-L mailing list
> http://phono-l.org
> Unsubscribe: phono-l-unsubscr...@oldcrank.org
> 
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications 
medium at best.


Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac 
which is the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days 
for the wax and bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color 
and it then thinned to the consistency of water, use a high dollar 
professional watercolor brush only for best results. Apply enough coats 
of shellac to almost fill the blemish and then use the violin varnish 
for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad with paraffin oil to 
clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen Behcol thinner 
is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a substitute. If 
Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor store. 
This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you 
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.

https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products

--Rich

On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the 
info.


*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
Phono-L 

*Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get 
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was 
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but 
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk 
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the 
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of 
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.


Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a 
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?



Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not 
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the 
pad to avoid squeal.

Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Robert Wright via Phono-L]

I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the info.

From: Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via Phono-L 

Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
>
> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Robert
>
>
>
> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
> mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>
>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
>> use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
>> pad to avoid squeal.
>> Ron
>
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Robert Wright via Phono-L]

That's a great idea, thank you! If I can get these gold parts looking newish, 
that's what I'll do. :-)



On Jan 12, 2019, at 7:09 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:

They may have used clear shellac.   I don’t think there were many options.  In 
the jewelry industry, gold plate is often given a coat of clear lacquer to 
retard signs of wear.  For parts that get touched a lot, I sometimes use a coat 
of clear nail polish.  It flows and evens out nicely and is really tough.

Ron L

From: Phono-L 
[mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf 
Of Robert Wright via Phono-L
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2019 4:39 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Cc: Robert Wright
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get most of 
it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was that the arms 
that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but I think the hot water 
I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk that was making it so stiff. 
After a thorough drying, I oiled all the moving parts with 3-in-one, then 
rubbed an oily paper towel over all of it to guard against any kind of moisture 
left over.

Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a bit 
involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?


Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the finish.  
 I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the mechanism and spray 
cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not use polish.  Relubricate 
moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the pad to avoid squeal.

Ron

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phono-l-unsubscr...@oldcrank.org

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