Heh, most of my bike have little plastic gingerbread man-shaped clips
that serve as mascot and mapholder, preferably color matched to the
bike. Blue one on my silver Quickbeam, for example:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6004/6017958991_787e0c5ecd_b.jpg
Or clear when there's no match available.
Wow.
Man oh man oh man.You finally take a week's vacation and go camping and
there's a moderate kerfuffle in the group. And the distinct odor of
umbrage.
In the words of many barkeeps for a multitude of generations:
Gentlemen, PLEASE!
I'll paraphrase a point I've made before - in the
http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/duty_calls.png
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You tested it. Couldn't do it. Must be hard. I will take your experience as
a data point, no more.
On a built bike, for me, dozens of times, gravity made it easier. The
derailleur and chain were not a factor.
Philip Don't I have a bike to ride? Williamson
www.biketinker.com
On Friday,
In all sincerity, you really do not belong in a public forum.
A public forum is a place where people share experiences, ideas and
musings.
Your solution was to get a new frame. You appear to think every post
thereafter should have been a rehash of your post. There is absolutely no
reason
Even relatively little things can be somewhat unnerving when you've parted
with so much cash for a new frame.I'm glad to hear it is sorted out
now-Rivendell has a reputation for being really good about stuff like
that and for valuing their customers.Here's to finally getting your
*What I Learned From This Thread* (too little too late).
I won't try to put an unshod wheel into a bare frame if the dropouts need
spreading. It's easy with a built bike, less so without.
If I think people are missing crucial facts, I'll reiterate gently, in
different terms, with more
Even a correctly spaced, fully built bike takes some familiarity before
dropping a rear wheel in comes easily. It took me a while (way back when)
to get the hang of getting it past the derailer without some frustration.
If this kind of thing is new to you, even the built bike with narrow
I agree that a bike should have a mascot, but IMO the mascot should be
found while riding the bike. My touring bike's mascot is a small plastic
frog, which I zip tied to the top of the stem...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/6724309713/in/photostream
My AHH doesn't have a mascot yet...
On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 2:17 PM, Philip Williamson
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:
I won't try to put an unshod wheel into a bare frame if the dropouts need
spreading. It's easy with a built bike, less so without.
What would make it easier with a fully-assembled bike? If anything, I
would
Agreed. A very annoying response. The O.P. asked for our advice. Looming
through the posts above, just about all say to contact Riv., but also share
experiences with the issue.
If someone does not want to hear about other's experience or knowledge on an
issue, best not to ask ina public
On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 11:01 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
Agreed. A very annoying response. The O.P. asked for our advice. Looming
through the posts above, just about all say to contact Riv., but also share
experiences with the issue.
If someone does not want to hear about
Then stop posting about it and lets let this one die. I for one will not be
following this thread anymore. Moving on people!
On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 2:08 PM, Michael Richters
michael.richt...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 11:01 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
Agreed. A
Not knowing you AND not having any idea how to solve your problem, and
having read the entire thread (and not having sent you any advice), I now
consider you an obnoxious moron. Welcome to the group.
On Thursday, September 20, 2012 11:09:23 AM UTC-7, Michael Richters wrote:
On Thu, Sep 20,
On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 11:08 AM, Michael Richters
michael.richt...@gmail.com wrote:
You know what's annoying? People trying to give me advice without
bothering to read what I've already written about the problem. I
asked for advice for how to solve a problem, and most of the responses
I
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 11:37 AM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
Any decent bike shop will have tools to spread it that small amount and
realign dropouts. Cost me 40 bucks in nyc which is top of the market.
Sure, any decent bike shop might. If only there were such a thing
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
Don't file.Bending it out by less than 3mm (about 1.5mm per side) is not
a problem; removing metal is.
Look at how the rear triangle is made: a pair of chainstay tubes from the
bottom bracket shell coming back, a
You don't put the wheel on the frame by pushing down on it with your
weight. You need to spread the frame with your hands and then slide
the wheel in.
3 mm means you just need to spread the frame by 1.5 mm on each side.
It shouldn't require much force. You can see this by flexing the frame
with
Agreed. You should stand behind the bike to spread the dropouts and pull
the wheel up into them. I put a 130 in 126, and a 126 in a 122 all the
time. You won't damage the frame -- another benefit of steel.
jim
On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:40:47 PM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:
You don't put the
Thanks for the advice, guys, but you obviously didn't read my
description of the situation. It's not a complete bike; it's just a
frameset with nothing on it, except maybe the front wheel. There's no
chain, no derailleur, et cetera. Since I only have two hands, I can't
spread the dropouts and
Well it is obvious you are frustrated with the list members who are
just trying to help so why dont you take this conversation out of here
and take it up with Rivendell directly. If you wrote them as acrimonious of
an email as you wrote us I would think they would respond right away...
On Wed,
Here is a link to Sheldon Brown's classic article on cold setting frame
dropouts. http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
I've done it as a novice and got excellent results.
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On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 7:47 PM, Doug Magney yengamg...@gmail.com wrote:
Here is a link to Sheldon Brown's classic article on cold setting frame
dropouts. http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
I've done it as a novice and got excellent results.
Aha! I searched for the wrong terms when
Michael: Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to
choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate. It takes a little oomph to
get the 135 mounted for sure. Nothing wrong with doing so. Will not hurt the
bike or hub.
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Did the AHH change rear spacing? Mine is 135 mm, as we're all the original
darker blue ones.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 15, 2012, at 5:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
Michael: Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to
choose between 130 and 135 hubs
I could be mixing it up with another Riv., but I believe my first batch Hilsen
was 132.5.
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On Saturday, September 15, 2012 12:02:18 PM UTC-4, Matthew J wrote:
I could be mixing it up with another Riv., but I believe my first batch
Hilsen was 132.5.
Original plan for the Rambouillet was to be a 130 rear, but then RBW went
132.5 so that you could go either 130 or 135. (I went
My second batch one was made at Waterford and is 135. The literature
advertising the bike when it was new in 2007 said it would be 135 on the AHH,
but that Rivendell also thought 132.5 could make a lot of sense.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 15, 2012, at 9:02 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
Michael: Rivendell spaces its bikes 132.5 intentionally to allow owners to
choose between 130 and 135 hubs as needs dictate. It takes a little oomph to
get the 135 mounted for sure. Nothing wrong with doing so. Will
Any decent bike shop will have tools to spread it that small amount and
realign dropouts. Cost me 40 bucks in nyc which is top of the market.
On Sep 15, 2012 12:28 PM, Michael Richters michael.richt...@gmail.com
wrote:
On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 7:00 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
I would not file it. Maybe you should call Rivendell.
Is it possible that your frame was tweaked in transit somewhere? You should
call them and not take my word on the following speculation which is that I'd
be surprised if they let a frame get sold to a customer that is not 135 without
Yes, that too. I had the rear of my QB (similar frame to AHH) respaced from 120
to 135. So far, so good (knock on wood.)
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 15, 2012, at 9:37 AM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
Any decent bike shop will have tools to spread it that small amount and
On Saturday, September 15, 2012 10:09:21 AM UTC-4, Michael Richters wrote:
In this case, it's 132.1, measured where the paint is scraped down to
bare metal. And on their description of the A Homer Hilsen
(http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen.htm), it clearly says:
Rear dropout
Been a while since I had the Hilsen. Could be I am remembering a different Riv.
Filing the drop outs is much more likely to hurt than help. Even a seasoned
metal worker would have difficulty filing the same amount off each side.
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I've finally got a little time to spend putting my new A Homer Hilsen
together (thanks to everyone for your advice). So far, I've run into
two little problems:
First, the rear dropout spacing is not 135mm as advertised, but 132mm.
I have a rear wheel built with a 135mm hub, and if I use a lot
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 5:33 PM, Jim Mather mather...@gmail.com wrote:
RBW chases/faces the BB and framesaves it before they send it out, so don't
worry about those steps.
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 2:08 PM, Bill bionn...@gmail.com wrote:
the very first step is to have the bb shell faced chased
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 10:41 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
i could be wrong, but i don't think that Riv framesaves frames if you don't
get a complete bike - i think i read that they don't do it because the
framesaver leaks all over the bike packing stuff.
It's been a while since I ordered
RBW chases/faces the BB and framesaves it before they send it out, so don't
worry about those steps.
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 2:08 PM, Bill bionn...@gmail.com wrote:
the very first step is to have the bb shell faced chased as well as
headtube faced. while you're at it, have insides framesaved
Or I bought a wedge thing from Sears that's perfect for that. It's
made out of hard plastic, looks like a door stop, is yellow and you
can find it in the tool department. I don't know what it's really
supposed to be for but it's perfect for spreading the stem clamp
apart so the bars will
On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 8:38 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
As for for brake levers, you should be able to unbolt the clamp part, slide
it on, then bolt the lever bodies back onto the clamp. I don't know if that
works for brifters though.
All the tidbits I've read on installing
You'll get the clamps on, then once the lever-bolts have started threading
you can adjust the lever location by wiggling it around a bit. But before
you do that I think you should call the supplier of your bars and tell them
your problem. The fact that you're having the same issue with two sets
If you are going to just wrap and shellac them then there is really no
issue with scratches. I like the VO leather wrap, its like an expensive
steering wheel, and at 45 bucks a good deal. Takes a good night to do but I
like it.
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com
All your plans so good so far. Assembling a bike is the best part IMHO!
As for for brake levers, you should be able to unbolt the clamp part, slide
it on, then bolt the lever bodies back onto the clamp. I don't know if that
works for brifters though.
On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 6:04 PM, Leslie
The OP tried that and it was still very tight. Nevertheless, doing it that
way is probably his best bet for the least scratching.
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.
On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 6:38:22 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
All your plans so good so far. Assembling a bike is the best
Got it! :-)
On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 7:04 PM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
The OP tried that and it was still very tight. Nevertheless, doing it that
way is probably his best bet for the least scratching.
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.
On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 6:38:22 PM UTC-7,
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