I have a Riv Road Standard with VO cranks and a Campy Nuovo Record FD, it
works great for me and I like using the vintage part.
Cheers,
Keith
On Sat, Mar 2, 2024 at 1:23 AM Garth wrote:
> Those VO cranks with the straight arms all suggest a 118mm BB for a road
> double 43.5mm chainline. FD's
I was thinking the very same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 2, 2024, at 12:16 AM, Josiah Anderson wrote:It's hard to say for sure from the picture, but it looks like your fd is at a bit of an angle, and rotating it to straight might allow a bit more crankarm clearance.Josiah AndersonMissoula MT Le
Those VO cranks with the straight arms all suggest a 118mm BB for a road
double 43.5mm chainline. FD's with relatively flat/straight cages are made
for such tight tolerances that come with straight arm doubles. Here's a
Campy Nuovo Record for example.
[image:
Adam
I have the VO 50.4 bcd cranks on my Saluki and a 118mm bb was actually too
short. I had to use a 122.5 and even that was pretty tight.
-Kris
On Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 10:01:33 PM UTC-6 Bikie#4646 wrote:
> Adam,
>
> I meant to add that prices on digital micrometers seem to have
Adam,
I meant to add that prices on digital micrometers seem to have gone down
over time. I replaced my old "analog" PITA micrometer on Amazon for
twenty-five bucks. I would not go for the cheapest though. I opted for one
with an auto "OFF" setting so you won't burn the battery out when you
Adam,
Just saying . If you like the paint job on your bike, be mindful when
applying muscle to the BB remover tool. You'll be using a heavy-ish
adjustable wrench. So, adjust it so it's snug. It's pretty easy to have
that tool come out and the wrench can chip the vulnerable BB shell paint
Adam, you've already gotten plenty of good advice but I'll add this video
of Mark at Riv installing a BB. Good on you for doing this!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwjnZfNO1DE
Best of luck,
Rich in ATL
On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 8:46:33 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
> If the BB spindle
If the BB spindle you're testing out is too short yes, a chainring with hit
the chainstay. If you slide it on and there's no resistance as the ring
gets close..STOP. Not gonna work, pull the crank back and prepare to pull
that BB and get a longer one in there.
On Friday, February 16, 2024 at
Thanks for all of the tips.
I appreciate the acknowledgement of the STAND. I do not have one and
there's no chance of finding room for one in my apt. Someday that will
change . . .
I'm not sure what a crank bolt washer looks like? Maybe I'll know when I
see it. I'm assuming it would be under
Also, if you do end up removing the BB, the drive side is reverse-threaded,
so lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.
Jim in Mpls
On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 4:40:51 PM UTC-6 Drurad (Sacramento) wrote:
> I second the disclaimer to check for washer prior to using crank puller.
>
> -Andrew
>
> On
I second the disclaimer to check for washer prior to using crank puller.
-Andrew
On Fri, Feb 16, 2024 at 2:32 PM Shoji Takahashi
wrote:
> Also, check to make sure there's no crank bolt washer before you put on
> the crank puller!
>
> good luck,
> shoji
> Arlington MA
>
> On Friday, February
Also, check to make sure there's no crank bolt washer before you put on the
crank puller!
good luck,
shoji
Arlington MA
On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 3:48:29 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> I enumerated a list of tools, omitting the most critical one.
>
> Learning any mechanical manuever is
I enumerated a list of tools, omitting the most critical one.
Learning any mechanical manuever is a LOT easier with the bike held in a
proper mechanic's work stand. Every single is a LOT harder doing it on the
ground or with the bike upside down. The work stand is the barrier. There
is
Then, if you do need to replace the bottom bracket, you’ll need a tool like
this to snug up the new one.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-22-Shimano-Cartridge/dp/B001A0AIAG/?th=1=1
I took my Sam to the LBS to take the old one out. The guys in Taiwan (or
at Rivendell) must have hydraulic
Thanks all,
Great. I have the tools, just ordered the park crankpuller from VO with the
cranks.
I'll give it a go and see what happens. I think I get the idea from the
videos.
I don't have the cranks in hand yet, but once I sort it out, I'll post
back, probably with questions about FDs and
Emphasizing one point Bill mentioned, slide the driveside crank on the
spindle SLOWLY and stop before you think a ring may hit the frame. Ask me
how I learned this!
Joe Bernard
On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 10:52:24 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Generally speaking, anybody who wants to
Hello Adam,
I agree 100% with Bill and Steve's recommendations. A couple things to be
aware of, make sure to put some grease on the puller before threading it
onto the crank and to tighten with the adjustable wrench, it's possible to
damage the crank arm treads otherwise. Second, the FD may
Adam, good on you for planning to do the crank swap yourself (you will
likely want a crank puller -
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7
& here's a link to Park's how to video -
Generally speaking, anybody who wants to do new mechanical maneuvers, and
has the will to purchase the right tools, by all means go for it.
To swap out your crank set without swapping the BB, what you need are:
-pedal wrench
-whatever wrench you need for your crank bolts: Long 8mm allen, 14mm
Sage advice Joe Bernard
On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:02:54 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
> You might want to let a bike shop dig into this unless you're committed to
> buying two types of BB tools and learning all about it. I'm big on the
> buying and learning, but it's not a small project
You might want to let a bike shop dig into this unless you're committed to
buying two types of BB tools and learning all about it. I'm big on the
buying and learning, but it's not a small project for a first-timer and
you're not even sure where the problem is yet. Could be a headache!
Joe "ok
On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:45:23 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:
> However, a failure mode for Hollowtech is the bottom bracket creaking, and
> if you’re going to replace it, it is relatively easy.
> If you’re going to take the old one off and replace it with another BB51
> (or SRAM equivalent),
What Benz said. It may be from somewhere else - the pedals, or even the
seat.
However, a failure mode for Hollowtech is the bottom bracket creaking, and
if you’re going to replace it, it is relatively easy.
If you’re going to take the old one off and replace it with another BB51
(or SRAM
Thanks Benz. It's tough to tell exactly where the pops and creaks are
coming from but it seems to happen only during hard pedaling and kind of
feels like it's coming from the left (non-drive side) crank arm which is
attached with hex bolts. The whole crankset has always annoyed me, mostly
Justin, I will suggest investigating what's causing the creaking and
popping. Quite often, what appears to be from the crank may not actually be
from the crank. Especially with an Xtracycle Free Radical conversion, there
are more opportunities for creaks and pops. Unfortunately, troubleshooting
Okay thanks for the info. I'm not equipped or experienced with bottom
bracket replacement which is why I was hoping to salvage what's already
there and not have to remove and replace it. But maybe this is an
opportunity for me to figure it out. Will need to invest in some tools I
assume.
On
Justin—
To answer your last question first, no, that spindle won’t fit.
Any way you look at it you would have to replace the entire bottom bracket.
The crank creaking and popping is more than likely due to the bottom
bracket itself.
If you want the cheaper solution, just remove the crankset,
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