I recently had issue with a Nitto stem coupled to a Bosco bar, for me, the
bar would slip up and down. No matter how much I leaned into the stem bolts
(same Nitto set up as yours - not the nice triangular rear bolt), just
could not solve the issue, so I decided to move to the Bosco moose,
I’m SO glad that my old thread was of use to you. There is nothing that will
ruin your ride like unexplained clicks/squeaks. Yay for you!
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 1, 2020, at 6:00 AM, Ben Mihovk wrote:
>
> I started a new thread without searching (my bad...sorry!), but Mark was so
> kind
I started a new thread without searching (my bad...sorry!), but Mark was so
kind as to point me to this one. I had the EXACT same noise in the same
situations as in Leah's video. The squeaky/click when pressure is applied
to the bars and when pressure is taken off. Hard to duplicate when not in
All the technomic ish stems I've had are of the deluxish genus with the
nice custom "nut" that matches the stem shape.
But If presented with one of the other kind with a standard nut, I would
put a wrench on it and not trust the, in my view, sketchy ledge to hold it.
Because, I don't buy
aeroprof
I agree with you, no substitution was made on Leah's stem.
What I meant was Nitto designed the stem for a Standard M6 hex nut (13mm
flats) some time before 2000 when I bought my 225mm Technomic with 80mm
stem. Some time between 2000 and 2010 Nitto made a design change to go to
a JIS
My Nitto stem on my brand new Bridgestone XO-3 in 1994 had the clamp bored out
at an angle: If the stem was aligned with the toptube and front tire, the bar
was at an angle to the left as if I was slightly turning left. Mistakes make it
through.
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This is painful. But it reminds me that not all products are manf'd
equally. There's no way that the stem bolt hole could be drilled from the
back side, only from the front. If the jaws on the stem were spread a tad
bit too much, for example, the target zone for the 2nd hole on the back
John—
No, I don’t think they substituted a JIS nut for a standard M8 nut in this
particular unit. That was my first thought but my nut is close enough to
the “step” that it looks like the design is for the JIS 12mm.
My thought is more like #1 or #6 in Paul’s entry above, and your comment
Aeroperf
Good idea on the 2 different hex nut sizes. When you say "I think you just
got a bad stem", can you be more specific about what the 'bad' is???
Are you saying Nitto substituted a JIS hex nut (12mm flats) when the
original design used a standard metric hex nut (13mm flats)??
Everybody probably already knows this, but a couple of notes on bolts &
nuts.
Bolts are typically steel. If they go into steel they are typically fine
thread, but not always. Sometimes using a taller nut and coarse thread is
cheaper.
If they go into aluminum they are almost always coarse
I've used these stems for a couple forevers, and never felt the "need" to
use a wrench with the nut, but I always do. The "shelf," or maybe "ledge"
is better?, isn't particularly deep, so I think using a wrench makes for
more secure tightening. I'm also pretty retentive when it comes to this
The Soma stem worked with the steel Bosco, which has a sleeve (judging by
the catalogue photo), and the aluminum Bosco worked fine with the Tech
Deluxe; so it looks as if tiny manufacturing variations just cause
sufficient mismatch between this particular stem and this particular bar. I
agree that
I don’t know. I went after my whole bike with hex keys to see if I could find
the source of the ticking. When I went to tighten the bolt at the stem clamp, I
noticed the hex nut also turning, making the bolt feel stripped to me. I had my
husband mess around with the hex nut, so not sure if it
I tried the bars in a different Technomic stem, same hex nut, and no ticking.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 18, 2020, at 6:06 AM, 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch
> wrote:
>
>
> Leah
>
> Did you try your current AL bars in a DIFFERENT stem?? Did the bars 'tick'
> in the different
Leah
Did you try your current AL bars in a DIFFERENT stem?? Did the bars
'tick' in the different stem???
I probably missed it in the previous posts. Get mixed up between all the
Technomics
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
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Yeah, I'm generally not a proponent of greasing the stem-handlebar
interface as noted in my reply above. But of course a seat post gets
greased and is also not designed to move, and many have lubed the stem/bar
area to get rid of noise. So assuming the bar and stem are the correct size
for one
Leah
Sounds like a harrowing ride.
When you got home, was the nut on the stem clamp bolt loose??? If so how
much loose
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
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I was replying to this: "I’m hoping the T9 works its way deeper into the
crevices. I have real stem grease coming via Amazon tomorrow - do you all
think I should add that to the stem/bar interface as well? "
The stem/bar interface should get nothing, the stem/steerer interface
should get
Sal, she says she used a little Boeshield on it. Is that ok and grease is bad,
or are you saying nah to both?
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do NOT grease the stem/bar interface!
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 8:48:10 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
wrote:
>
> Whew, I’m glad to have that clarified, and thank you, John.
>
> I did my 10 miler tonight and I think the ticking is mostly resolved. It
> was a windy night, and I was
Knowledge is power. Both can be scary!
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Whew, I’m glad to have that clarified, and thank you, John.
I did my 10 miler tonight and I think the ticking is mostly resolved. It was a
windy night, and I was moving pretty quickly and there were a lot of people out
and about, so it was difficult to really hear. I think I did hear some
Leah
I'm sorry if "defective" implied "unsafe". I meant the stem does not meet
it's design and hence is defective. The Nitto design of the nut and shelf
interface has a small of margin of error, since the hex nut has short flats.
I do NOT think the stem is unsafe to ride since you used a
PS Yes, I plan to replace the stem. It’s not possible now as they are only at
SomaFab and the 50 is sold out in 280 mm height.
Also, someone asked about how high I have the bars. I don’t have the stem
minimally inserted - there is a healthy distance between my chosen setting and
the max
So, I took most of the advice here so far. Including that I swapped back to the
Tall Boy stem after using some T9 at the stem/bar interface. I used a wrench to
ensure the bolt was truly tight and I rode around the neighborhood. All is
silent.
I’m still concerned about the safety of the stem
In this case the noise is definitely at the clamp, I saw a video where she
loosened the clamp enough to move the bars up and down and the creak turned
DEAFENING. This is WAY unusual to me and I've worked with dozens of Nitto
stem/bar combinations, but here we are. A. I hope grease cures it for
Regarding the nut, hex or otherwise. I've never needed to put a wrench on
it, but if it were spinning, I would. If you can get the bolt tight, it
works fine regardless of how the nut was restrained while tightening it. If
I worked in a bike shop, I'd hold the nut with a wrench to avoid putting
Leah
>From the video:
1. The stem seems to have excessive distance from the bolt to the 'shelf"
which stops the nut rotation. The excessive distance allows the nut to
rotate when tightened
2 The "shelf" flat appears straight and does not have a rounded out center,
as would occur if the bolt
What? You don’t like the Tall Boy? Why are you selling it? If you’re really
sure, I might want to buy it from you. I just lived and swapped back the Tall
Boy stem. If I still have that tick, take my money.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 10:44 AM, aeroperf wrote:
>
>
>
> When
"Why are so many opposed to using a simple wrench on a nut as Nitto intended
for this model stem?"
I don't think it's "opposed" so much as the other Nitto stems - like most
one-bolt stems - don't work that way. I've had a bunch of both models and don't
think I've ever used a wrench on that
Why are so many opposed to using a simple wrench on a nut as Nitto intended
for this model stem?
A guy who likes using the correct tool for the job.
Laing
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 1:47:44 PM UTC-4, Doug Hansford wrote:
> I agree with you aeroperf, there is nothing for the nut to "grab"
I agree with you aeroperf, there is nothing for the nut to "grab" when
tightened down. A star washer or split/lock washer should help.
Doug
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 1:44:40 PM UTC-4, aeroperf wrote:
>
>
> When Leah posted about buying her stem, I went out and got one, too (and
> within a
John, this is how it’s supposed to work, but it’s not. I’ve tried all different
ways of laying that nut flat against the stem casting and it spins regardless.
I’ve flipped the nut both ways...still spins. Does that mean defect?
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 8:39 AM, 'John Hawrylak'
++1 on this.
The nut flats contact a 'flat' in the casting, and when you tighten the
allen in front, the 2 flats contact each other, and the nut does not rotate
as you tighten it. Visually check the BACK of the stem for the nut flat to
line up with the stem casting flat to line up.
I would
I used triflow though any chain lube should do.
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 11:17:34 AM UTC-4, Sean Ryan wrote:
>
> I had some ticking/clicking on an older pair of aluminum nitto handlebars
> and i took care of it by laying the bike and applying oil to the bars at
> the edge of the sleeve.
I had some ticking/clicking on an older pair of aluminum nitto handlebars
and i took care of it by laying the bike and applying oil to the bars at
the edge of the sleeve. The idea is to let the oil make its way down
between the bars and the sleeve. After letting it soak/penetrate for a
>
>
> Ok, what of the strangely spinning bolt?
>
> Some Nitto stems have a nut on the backside that needs a wrench on it when
> you turn the Allen wrench on the front bolt to keep it from spinning, some
> do not. If you have a nut on the back of the stem that you did not hold
> still while
Interesting; gives me some hope. By “wet lube” do you mean that Boeshield would
be ok to use at bar/stem interface? That’s what I have on hand...
Ok, what of the strangely spinning bolt?
Thanks much,
Leah
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 7:49 AM, Conway Bennett
> wrote:
>
> Nitto
Nitto cockpit are known to do this. Disassemble and regrease EVERYTHING and
reassemble and the problem may or may not resurface. I have experienced this
issue only once, I addressed it, and it never resurfaced.
The roadside fix is a couple of drops of wet lube into the bar stem interface
True, although If I'm reading it right, Rivendell bought it from Soma for
her and then passed it on, so hopefully they verified it was 25.4. Still,
stuff happens!
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 9:43:11 AM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> +1 on what Hugh said.
>
> Suggest also pulling the stem
+1 on what Hugh said.
Suggest also pulling the stem out and verify the quill is stamped with
"25.4" and NOT "26.0" for the clamp diameter. A mix up may have occurred
at Soma and they sent you a 26.0 stem.
The CrMo bars may have tolerated a clamp mismatch better than the Al bars
John Hawrylak
All interfaces are suspect in this scenario and the phantom click can be
tough to isolate.
As noted above grease in the quill is step 1.
If that doesn't do it, a light coat of oil on the sleeve should be tried.
If that doesn't do it, loosen the stem clamp (so there's no pressure on the
sleeve),
The stem she linked to is 25.4, and she previously had chromo Boscos in
there with no noise.
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Leah
>
> All Bosco bars (CrMo or Al) are 25.4mm in the clamp area. Is the Nitto
> Stem a 25.4mm or 26.0mm diameter clamp?
>
Leah
All Bosco bars (CrMo or Al) are 25.4mm in the clamp area. Is the Nitto
Stem a 25.4mm or 26.0mm diameter clamp?
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
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Did you put a good amount of grease on the stem quill going into the
steerer when re-installing? Since it seems to be a "paired" click--that is,
it clicks when pressure is applied, and again when released--maybe there is
something going on with that interface. Loosen stem, lube it up,
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