OK, well that was a red-herring. You are right that they taper in a
little, but the thing I'm talking about tapers in A LOT and only on the
left side. This 7400 rear hub kind of shows it:
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 10:43 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
If you asked for my wild guess, I'd try those 'slow-release' levers. The
ones you need an allen wrench to tighten. On chrome rear dropouts in the
past, that's been helpful for me. I think they generate substantially more
On my Davidson road bike, with chromed dropouts, I couldn't stop slipping
with Mavic or Dura Ace internal cam skewers. Everything on the bike was
brand new. I replaced them with Control Tech Ti skewers (which I was
willing to do also trying to get a lugged steel bike under 18lb). I never
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 12:13 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
On my Davidson road bike, with chromed dropouts, I couldn't stop slipping
with Mavic or Dura Ace internal cam skewers. Everything on the bike was
brand new. I replaced them with Control Tech Ti skewers (which I was
willing
Joe's experience with allen skewers is mine, tho' mine all have
aluminum contact surfaces. I once snapped the steel skewer on one
trying to clamp a fixed wheel in chromed, horizontal dropouts.
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 12:52 PM, Joe Broach joebro...@gmail.com wrote:
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 10:43
The control tech skewers have a ti skewer part and aluminum ends. I never
had to tighten too hard.
On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:18:26 PM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 12:13 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
On my Davidson road bike, with chromed dropouts, I couldn't
William, thanks! VERY interesting... kind of a cool feature on Shimao's
part. They are indeed old DA hubs from the 90's. 7700 series to be
exact. I converted
them to 135mm http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2406321019/ four
years ago. I just checked and *both *locknuts are beveled on the
Both are bevelled? That's just weird or I'm losing it. Can you photograph
it for me?
And the alligator mouth wants to eat the bigger number, so you are looking
for a 30yo mechanic, not a 30yo mechanic. :)
On Sunday, May 13, 2012 11:19:57 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
William,
Your wish is my command: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/
Alligators and Pacman... arrrgh, flashback to the 80's!!!
On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 2:36 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
Both are bevelled? That's just weird or I'm losing it. Can you
photograph it for me?
And the
People have used them on Crosschecks with horizontal dropouts. Here's an
example:
http://forums.mtbr.com/8117216-post182.html
Here's a whole discussion of a similar issue on the Salsa Casseroll:
http://forums.mtbr.com/salsa/dissapointed-my-casserole-401914.html
The Salsa designer recommended a
Is it clear when during your rides that it slips? Just spinning along,
cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it may
just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears, and
steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's. My success
On Sun, 2012-05-13 at 10:57 -0700, Jeremy Till wrote:
Is it clear when during your rides that it slips? Just spinning
along, cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I
fear it may just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts,
QR's, low gears, and steep California
Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a
Phil/Bontrager
heavy duty
wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought
of.
Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!
There is no way whatsoever for dish to have anything to do with this
problem. It does no harm to have dish checked if you think it might not be
right, but dish never caused a hub to slip in the dropouts.
The reason the first generation of 130mm spaced dura ace hubs had a beveled
locknut was
OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share. I
put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so that's
not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
alignment
Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:
http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut
I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never needed
them on my Crosscheck
Eric Daume
Dublin, OH
On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:
I don't know what sort of bike Cyclotourist has, but if by
horizontal dropouts he means the usual forward-facing road dropouts,
these won't work -- they are designed for track ends.
I am very puzzled by your (Cyclotourist -- what's your real name?)
slipping problem: I've had no problems with even
It has horizontal, not rear-facing track ends. I don't know if those tugs
will work, but maybe. It says in bold that they're for rear-facing drop
outs...
The name is David, or at least that is what I tell people on the internet.
You can see my signature line if you scroll down (included a
Hmm. With it still acting up, am going to join the chorus of the dropouts
not being aligned. But even then, can't see why it would slip so bad. I
was able to ride a Surly Cross Check with the XT quick release without
slipping. Both as a multi geared and single speed.
Only other thing I
David!!
My brother, Peter, who has a huge amount of experience wrenching on
all sorts of bikes old and new, says that in his experience, with
slick chrome dropouts, older Campy up through C-Record, or Suntour QRs
with pronounced serrations have worked for him every time; and he's
far bigger than
Hey, that's me! :-)
And what you mention is basically what many people have said, so I just
can't figure it out. I mean, it really should just dig in and clamp. I'm
cranking it down so hard on the QR I can barely undo it with my hands and
need to use a screwdriver as a lever. Trust me, it's
I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of the big fat
tires you could run .. even Nanos. Vertical drop outs, check, no more
problems, check. Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.
Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)
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That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) But
aren't Atlantii blue?
On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.comwrote:
I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of the big fat
tires you could run .. even Nanos. Vertical
That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's wrong
w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel as
well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats in
anticipation!
On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt
I bet the steel QR solves the problem... aluminum QR nuts are suspect for
slippage.In addition to going to steel, maybe take it in to a shop and
have them align the dropouts or borrow a Park FFG-2 alignment tool- if
they are skewed a bit it certainly isn't helping the situation.Anyway
Same problem here. Steel QR solved it.
Toshi
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Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...
On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
cannot be used with
From the photo I saw on Amazon, the current XT QRs are internal cam,
so that eliminates one possible cause.
You might also look to see if the hub axle is a bit too long,
preventing the QR from clamping down fully on the dropout plate --
tho' if you are distorting the bearings this isn't your
Patrick makes some good suggestions. It sounds like something is preventing the
drive side from closing enough to grip the dropout. As Patrick suggested, make
sure the axle isn't extending beyond the dropout, which would make it
impossible to clamp all the way. This can be fixed by loosening
THANKS for brainstorming this with me. It's frustrating to the point where
I'm considering a new bike, so would much rather get it fixed!!!
Here's what I found/did:
- Dropouts appear to be same width ( ~7.2mm) and straight eyeball
guesstimate. This could be re-visited
- Surface of
My wife's fuji tour bike had this problem. Went from aluminum to steel skews,
knurled. This fixed the problem for us.
Kelly
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I am pretty sure it's the aluminum contact surfaces -- modern skewers
are meant, it seems, for vertical dropouts only. I remember tightening
an allen slow release on one of my fixies until the (steel) skewer
snapped -- couldn't get the aluminum ends to grip tightly enough.
Come to think of it,
Yes, definitely Al. I put on the new end (still Al) and same
problemhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150628661/in/photostream/.
Went back and dug out the Mavic all-steel
QRshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150710351/in/photostreamI
used to have on there and have replaced them,
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