date:20040823


At 06:10 AM 8/23/2004 +, you wrote:
--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, josephputzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Hello all,

I've just begun to build a processor out of two 55 gallon drums.  I
am having a 1 bushing welded to the drum so that I can put a screw-
in heating element into the processor.  I wanted the bushing so that
I can take out the element for cleaning and whatnot.  My trouble is
that I'm not much for electrical components.  I have a 4.5 kw 240 v
element.  How do I safely attach a power cord with the given wattage
and voltage? Is 4.5 kw to high? Should I find a 1.5 or 2.0 kw element
instead?

Any help would be great!
--- End forwarded message ---


I think I described this at www.veggieavenger.com/media in the 'appleseed 
processor- open source plans' thread.

Without going into all the details of how normal wiring is done (please go 
buy a $10 book on wiring, it'll help a lot with the basics of wire 
stripping and how to make connections) here are a few pointers on water 
heater heating elements:

4.5 KW is fine, assuming that the wiring you use is adequate and that the 
circuit is designed for it.

  4.5 KW is 4500 watts, and divided by 240 volts you will be drawing 18.75 
amps. That amperage isn't too bad- so use 12 gauge wire/cable or heavier 
(like 10 gauge)

(i use something that we generically call 'spa cable' - black waterproof 
flexible cable sold at Home Depot, but I'm not sure what it's technical 
name actually is!). You can also use 12 gauge extension cord wiring- make 
sure it's actually 12 gauge, not just some kind of so-called 'heavy-duty' 
extension cord (this is a form of wire sold by the foot at hardware stores, 
you don't have to cut up an existing extension cord which you might not 
know the gauge of)

Don't draw any other loads on that wiring if it's only 12 gauge (which is 
designed for 20 amps maximum, assuming it's under 100 feet in length). 10 
gauge is designed for up to 30 amps.

Presuming that you have 240 service at the site where you will be 
installing the processor, yOu will need to wire the cord to a plug that 
matches your 240V outlet (there many types of plug configurations for 
240v), or wire the cord into a disconnect box (grey subpanel looking thing 
which has a sort of big on-off Frankenstein switch on the side) and then 
wire that disconnect into a plug or somehow into your 240V service (ie see 
the wiring book you should buy if you want to go fancy like this).


modern 240V plugs come with either a four-wire or a three-wire configuration.

YOu only need three wires, but if your existing outlet is a four-wire (ie 
like from a dryer or range), go buy that same type of plug and don't wire 
anything to it's fourth 'neutral' terminal (the box directions should 
explain which is what).

four-wire 240 plugs are meant for appliances that have both a 240V heater 
and a 120V timer or clock, so missing the neutral in this case won't do any 
harm.

The actual heating element end gets wired like this:

black and white wires are wired to the two terminals of the heating 
element. Here's the confusing part: in 240V service, what you're supposed 
to be using for the element is a black and a red, but we're using a black 
and a white because that's all our hardware store cord gives us. In our 
case, if you just bought some spa cable or extension cord type cable, you 
don't have a black and a red. SO you use the black and the white, and 
pretend that the white is a red (electricians are supposed to paint red the 
ends of the white if doing something similar to this so that future 
electricians dont' get confused). You will also have a green wire in the 
cord, and that must get grounded to the drum. If you're welding anyway, add 
yourself a little tab to the drum, near the heating element, then use a 
sheet metal screw to make a ground terminal for the green wire to land on. 
If you're done with your welding and it's too late, then make yourself a 
c-clamp with a little threaded hole in it, and use a screw to make a 
terminal for the green wire. Then clamp it securely to the bottom lip of 
the drum or some other secure location.

The plug end: your plug terminals are labeled either on the box or on the 
plug itself. You should wire the black and the white (supposed to be red 
actually) to the 'load' terminals (they might be brass colored), and the 
green to the 'ground' terminal (might be green colored). If you have a 
fourth terminal for 'neutral', ignore it. Normally the neutral is where the 
white wire goes in a four-wire cord (three plus a ground), but that's not 
what you're using it for in a three-wire (two plus ground) cord. It's OK to 
leave it blank.

The other thing you could do, is to run that heating element at 120V- just 
wire a normal 120V plug onto it (which some hardware store clerks can tell 
you how to do).
At 120V, the element will run at 1`/4 the wattage, which will make it a 
1000 watt approximately, which will be a little low-power for a 55 gallon

[biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?



--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Hello jseabolt2002
 
  This came up on the list a couple of years back. I haven't done an
  archive search for it, but you might try it:
  http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
 
  IIRC it doesn't work that way, the water won't part company with
the
  ethanol, but I can't remember why not.
 
  Not trying to put a damper on you, it's interesting, I hope you and
  others here with more of a grip on such things than I have might
shed
  some light on it - maybe there's a way of getting it to work after
  all. The killer would be a good way of separating the resulting
  absolute ethanol from the gasoline. Simple distillation?

Actually my goal was to just get around having to do any distillation
period. Even if it meant creating a gasoline/alcohol blend. I'm not
that concerned with separating the gasoline from the alcohol. Even if
I end up with a 50/50 mixture, that's half gasoline I am not using.

I know you're not concerned with it, but many other people have an 
interest in producing absolute ethanol for ethyl esters biodiesel 
production.

Anyway, it seems, as before, that this is a no-no for any purposes.

Keith Addison



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Re: [biofuel] Bolivia?


Hi fellows:
Can some body explain to me what has to do Bolivia with Kerry?

Thanks

Jose

Hello Jose

It's going to be either Bush again or Kerry in the White House, 
surely you don't think that the difference between them when it comes 
to foreign policy and especially to energy issues, more especially 
fossil-fuel energy issues, as well as neo-liberal economic policies 
and corporate globalization in general, has nothing to do with 
Bolivia? Considering everything that's happened there and is yet to 
happen concerning the ownership and fate of Bolivia's natural gas 
reserves? Along with such subjects as water resources and Bechtel?

There are more than a hundred documents on my hard disk about all 
this... here are a few of them:

http://www.nadir.org/nadir/initiativ/agp/free/imf/bolivia/txt/2003/062 
7pipedream.htm
Bolivian Gas -- a Californian Pipe Dream?
27/6/2003

By Alistair Scrutton

SANTA CRUZ, Bolivia (Reuters) - In theory, it was a recipe for easy 
cash in one of the Western Hemisphere's poorest nations that just 
happened to be sitting on one of Latin America's biggest natural gas 
reserves.

All Bolivia had to do was negotiate with companies eager to pipe out 
trillions of cubic feet of gas to energy-hungry California, then wait 
a few years before enjoying the sweet smell of royalties for the next 
two decades.

In practice, a $6 billion plan to develop Latin America's 
second-biggest gas reserves is in a quagmire, delayed for more than a 
year due to a potent cocktail of civil unrest and a century-old 
border dispute with Chile that could sink a project soon to face 
stiff competitors such as Russian gas fields.
[more]

http://eatthestate.org/08-04/NotJustAbout.htm
(October 22, 2003)
Not Just About Gas

by Maria Tomchick

Last week the president of Bolivia resigned in the face of widespread 
strikes, protests, and a crippling blockade of Bolivia's capital 
city, La Paz, and its other major cities. The US press largely 
ignored the tumult in South America's poorest nation and, when the 
protests were covered at all, they were described as a reaction 
against the Bolivian government's plans to build a natural gas 
pipeline through neighboring Chile to the sea.

In actuality, Bolivians turned out in the hundreds of thousands to 
protest a much deeper problem: the theft of the nation's natural 
resources.
[more]

http://www.alternet.org/story.html?StoryID=17123
U. S. On the Wrong Side, Again

By Jim Hightower, AlterNet
November 4, 2003

The next time some warmongering politico or puff headed talk-radio 
pontificator asks why rebel groups of the world seem to hate 
America, say one word back to them: Bolivia.

Bolivia is a country rich in resources, yet its majority Indian 
population is mired in unemployment and abject poverty. This is 
because the Europeanized elites who've ruled the country have long 
joined foreign corporate exploiters in plundering Bolivia's resources 
and people.
[more]

http://www.zmag.org/content/showarticle.cfm?SectionID=52ItemID=4359
The IMF and the Bolivian Crisis
by Tom Kruse
October 15, 2003

http://www.thenation.com/doc.mhtml?i=20031103s=langman
October 22, 2003
Bolivia's Protests of Hope
by Jimmy Langman
El Alto, Bolivia

... Goni was responsible more than any other Bolivian for installing 
the neoliberal model in this country.

So it was no surprise that a protest, started in mid-September to 
oppose the nation's privatization and export of natural gas, soon 
transformed into a nationwide rebellion against Goni and the economic 
and social malaise he did so much to perpetuate.

It was the latest, most important installment in the battle raging 
over privatization and International Monetary Fund-inspired 
free-market reforms in Latin America. The resignation of Goni now 
makes Bolivia the third country in the region (Ecuador and Argentina 
are the others) in which sitting presidents have been pushed out in 
as many years by a populace angry over neoliberal policies imposed on 
their countries by Washington.

In Bolivia, the gas war was only the most recent boiling point for 
resentment over the economic model. Three years ago Bolivians kicked 
out the San Francisco-based Bechtel corporation after it took over 
the city of Cochabamba's water system and raised prices by as much as 
200 percent for some residents.
[more]

http://www.alternet.org/story.html?StoryID=14525
Bechtel Strikes Back at Bolivia
By Jim Shultz, Pacific News Service
November 11, 2002

http://www.cepr.net/columns/weisbrot/mark_weisbrot_8_17_04.htm
Venezuela's Referendum Should Be a Wake-Up Call for the United States
Mark Weisbrot's Column
August 17,2004

http://www.zmag.org/content/showarticle.cfm?SectionID=52ItemID=4364
Q  A on Bolivia
by Justin Podur
October 17, 2003
BOLIVIA WATCH
What is happening in Bolivia?

http://www.narconews.com/Issue33/article1006.html
Bolivians Demand Recovery of Gas From Foreign Corporations
With the Referendum Over, the Battle Moves to Congress and to the Streets
By

[biofuel] Re: MEASURING WVO FOR MIXING


What I do is to calibrate the water heater first, from a smaller 
measuring container, and set a mark on the sight tube (or on the pump 
output/sight tube ifyou don't have a separate sight tube) when I've 
reached the quantity that I think the water heater will handle.

I use the calibrated 5-gallon carboys to measure the volume in the 
reactor as well. It's not good to go from english to metric 
measurements, but if you don't have something calibrated in liters, 
the carboys are your next best bet. Fill them with oil to the exact 5 
gallon mark and attach them to what is normally the methoxide inlet. 
shut off the tank isolation valve (ie the main valve between tank and 
the rest of the plumbing). Then the pump will eventually draw from the 
carboy (assuming the carboy is higher than the pump and is on it's 
side...)

Keep track of how many carboys you put in, but after the first 10 
gallons or so, you can just measure how much the mark on teh sight 
tube will go up for every 5 gallons. 

You'll need to leave room for methanol, and also make note that most 
water heaters are somewhat over-rated as far as their capacity- by 
maybe 8% or so? so a 50 gallon will only hold 46 or something like 
that.

Convert over to liters before making your batch, so that you don't 
make a math mistake by accident on measuring the other ingredients.

girl mark
www.localB100.com 

--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, mark johnson II [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 I PROBABLY BE ASKING ALOT OF QUESTIONS UNTIL I UNDERSTAND THE WHOLE 
PROCESS. 
 I HAVE A 55 GALLON DRUM FOR MY WVO.  AFTER I 'VE MADE MY METHOXIDE,
ETC... 
 HOW DO I KNOW HOW MUCH WVO  TO PUMP INTO THE MY WATER HEATER?  HOW 
DO I 
 MEASURE THE WVO WHILE IT'S IN THE DRUM,AND BEFORE IT GOES IN WATER 
HEATER?  
 THIS JUST DAWNED ON ME ON MY WAY BACK FROM GETTING SUPPLIES FOR MY 
FIRST 
 TEST BATCH.  I AM TRYING TO GET MY APPLE SEED PROSSER READY FOR 
WHEN I GET 
 MY TEST BATCHES RIGHT.
 
 _
 Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter 
tools and 
 more! http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx




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[biofuel] Re: Love Those one inch Clear Water Pumps



If you read the original long www.veggieavenger.com/media thread on 
the Appleseed (keith please link this thread from the journeytoforever 
article it's derived from), you will find an even cooler discovery 
that someone else made: the Pathtofreedom.com folks use their carboys 
to prime the processor for the first time (stick a 3/4 hose barb on 
the carboy lid and plug that into the fill/drain tube). 

But having a separate preheat tank like you have, is even nicer, as it 
lets you deal with completely goopy thick oil, and expands your 
production capacity.

mark
www.localB100.com


--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, bioveging [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 Hi all;
 
 Something happened, somewhat by accident (comes with being 
 forgetful) that resolves the problem of the non-self priming Clear 
 Water Pump that many of us are using.
 As has been mentioned numerous, times they kinda suck, or actually 
 don't very well :), but that problem is now solved. How? God's own 
 gravity. Instead of having the pump suck from a pail or bucket or 
 whatever below it's position one needs to only gravity feed the WVO 
 into the pump and no priming is necesssary.
 I do not know if this will work with cold WVO, but it does for sure 
 work with pre-heated WVO, which I discoverd completely by accident 
 having forgotten to prime it when I was ready to load the reactor 
 after having heated my WVO to a little over 55C. As I opened the 
 valve on my pre-heat tank (38 liter capapcity)and the intake valve 
 to the pump I noticed that the sight tube registered oil in the 
 lines, so I simply flipped on the switch to the pump and voila! 
 pumped away like it is supposed to, so move those pails/tanks/drums 
 ect... above the level of the pump and never have to prime again.
 
 Have a nice day.
 
 L.
 PS: I now have 40 liters in the wash tank and another 40 in the 
 reactor settling for me this PM once I quality test the later.




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[biofuel] correction priming Clearwater pump- stuff from Biofuel list


sorry, I realised I wrote gibberish and that it maybe didn't quite make sense:

exerpt:
the  www.veggieavenger.com/media thread on the Appleseed (keith please 
link this thread from the journeytoforever article it's derived from)


what I meant to say was:
Keith, please add to my Appleseed article that you have posted on 
journeytoforever, the link to the original material that it's derived from:
www.veggieavenger.com/media or at least a link to the Appleseed thread on 
veggieavenger.com/media . I'm planning on cleaning up that thread pretty 
soon here so it'll be more legible.

Mark


www.LocalB100.com

www.veggieavenger.com/media- open-design homebrew biodiesel equipment plans

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/local-b100-biz-biodiesel co-ops and 
biodiesel small business discussion forum

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieselbasics  -the alternative Yahoo 
biodiesel list




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Re: [biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

2004-08-23 Thread pan ruti


Helo Ken and arcologic
 
Alcohol extraction  intead of distillation is  an novel process inovation  
which is being studied in a semi comercial scale in Canada   sucessfuly using 
simultaneaous fermentation and extraction using som solvent  non toxic that is 
being recycled.(octanol)
 
 In extracion of of alcohol from water using fase diagram , one can  improve 
the process using cosolvents (Caster oil ) as well as surface active 
agents(Biodeisel) .Thus a  good  biofuel mixture of low cost can be  surely  
made possible , but some one from our biofuel group  need to optimze the 
process of this new extraction to be practical using this novel approach.
 
sd
Pannirselvam

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, Ken,

For the excellent response.  Your suggested search worked great.  I put 
gasoline ethanol water ternary phase diagram into Google, got a copy of the 
diagram at 21 deg. C.

Here's the question I have thought about--

The diagram suggests that I can accomodate about 2% to 5% water in ethanol 
and blend it with gasoline without separation at 21 deg. C.  I read a warning 
somewhere that this isn't wise because the water will separate out at low 
temperatures.  Then, I wondered, is THIS a way to make a blend without dry 
alcohol, 
to cool the mix and remove the water.  (I understand, it's all in the phase 
diagram, and if it works the wrong way, just all of the alcohol separates out 
too.)

So, what do you think?   I suppose if I weren't lazy, I would start looking 
for a low-temperature diagram.  /Ernie

In a message dated 8/22/2004 10:10:52 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
biofuel@yahoogroups.com writes:
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:12:04 -0700
   From: Ken Provost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

on 8/22/04 10:19 AM, jseabolt2002 at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 
 Here's my theory. Gasoline and alcohol will mix. Alcohol and water
 also will mix. But gasoline is lighter than water so it floats and
 doesn't mix.
 
 So does that mean if you took the alcohol/water from the mash and
 mixed it with gasoline, would the alcohol attach itself to the
 gasoline and what you would end up with is water on the bottom and
 gasoline/alcohol on the top? Then just decant the mixtures?
 
 


It's hard to describe the whole system verbally, but you can
do a Google search for the ternary phase diagram of the
ethanol-water-gasoline system and everything will come clear.
Essentially, your idea doesn't work. With no water present,
ethanol is infinitely soluble (miscible) with gasoline. But
being a polar molecule, it vastly prefers water. Thus, in
mixtures of all three, the alcohol forms a phase with the
water, while the gasoline remains a separate phase. In other
words, you CAN use water to extract ethanol from gasoline,
but you CAN'T use gasoline to extract ethanol from water.

-K


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[biofuel] Re: Love Those one inch Clear Water Pumps -G-Mark


All this came about by following your recommendations and hints, G-
Mark. The gravity feed from the pre-heat is done via a braded tube 
that U-loops over the pump's intake and that gives it enough 
prerssure to prime the pump and send the heated WVO up the sight 
tube. This, of course, is governed by a ball valve.
The entire pump can be isolated, when I need it to be, so once the 
processing is done I close the bottom drain valve right at the exit 
point just after the automotive thermometer and that stops anything 
coming from the reactor to the lines. I then open a top valve, 
usually tghe one that leads to the wash tank so air can fill the 
lines and then open up the glycerine drain tube situated after the 
cut-off valave at the bottom and the other ball valve leading to the 
pump.
What this does is to completely drain the line and pump of ALL oil 
and provides me with a quality test sample at the same time (neat 
huh?) which I take home and allow to settle out and run a quality 
test on to see if I am going to have a problem to deal with or not.
When the time comes to drain off the glycerine, I simply leave the 
isolation valve leading to the pump closed and open an air intake 
(again, usually the line leading to the wash tank)and then open the 
cut-off at the bottom of the reactor and then the glycerine drain 
tube. I get zero backwash into the pump, the glycerine drains clean 
and when I need to transfer the BD to the wash tank I simply close 
off the glycerine drain tube and reopen the isolation valve which 
again re-primes the pump and away I go, only this time leaving the 
main return valve closed and opening the one to the wash tank and it 
gets transfered hands-free.
I just love the way this system works, and I don't have any problems 
with glycerine hardening in the pump or lines as it has all been 
drain off IMMEDIATELY after the processing is done while it is 
plenty hot to run smoothly.
Like I said, I built this on your design and added a couple of 
tweeks from further posts and from what I could deduct would be the 
best course to take.
If I really want to I can use the pre-heat drum (38 liter cap) as a 
small processor for small batches (min 20 liters to clear the 
heater) but it is just as much work if not more than using the full 
processor so I only did that once as a learning curve. Washed in the 
same drum using a stirrer, like Keith mentioned he does with his.
What I have tried to do is to incorporate the best of what I learned 
from your and others' experience and designs given my (very)limited 
knowledge of this whole process, but I am coming along. Having 
started at the beginning (very much recommended) gives one the 
opportunity to get familiar with how it works so that when problems 
arise, and they will, you can troubleshoot them much better.
I suspect this is one of the reasons that the two stage process is 
best left until after proper experience is had with the one stage 
method; get the idea and the why-for's understood and then move on.

Thanks for all you all have done in getting your experience and 
ideas where newbies like me can access them and hopefully make you 
glow at knowing you have done a good job.

L.

--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, skillshare [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 If you read the original long www.veggieavenger.com/media thread 
on 
 the Appleseed (keith please link this thread from the 
journeytoforever 
 article it's derived from), you will find an even cooler discovery 
 that someone else made: the Pathtofreedom.com folks use their 
carboys 
 to prime the processor for the first time (stick a 3/4 hose barb 
on 
 the carboy lid and plug that into the fill/drain tube). 
 
 But having a separate preheat tank like you have, is even nicer, 
as it 
 lets you deal with completely goopy thick oil, and expands your 
 production capacity.
 
 mark
 www.localB100.com
 
 
 --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, bioveging [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 wrote:
  Hi all;
  
  Something happened, somewhat by accident (comes with being 
  forgetful) that resolves the problem of the non-self priming 
Clear 
  Water Pump that many of us are using.
  As has been mentioned numerous, times they kinda suck, or 
actually 
  don't very well :), but that problem is now solved. How? God's 
own 
  gravity. Instead of having the pump suck from a pail or bucket 
or 
  whatever below it's position one needs to only gravity feed the 
WVO 
  into the pump and no priming is necesssary.
  I do not know if this will work with cold WVO, but it does for 
sure 
  work with pre-heated WVO, which I discoverd completely by 
accident 
  having forgotten to prime it when I was ready to load the 
reactor 
  after having heated my WVO to a little over 55C. As I opened the 
  valve on my pre-heat tank (38 liter capapcity)and the intake 
valve 
  to the pump I noticed that the sight tube registered oil in the 
  lines, so I simply flipped on the switch to the pump and voila! 
  pumped away like it is supposed to,

RE: [biofuel] NOX and catalytic converter use

2004-08-23 Thread Mccall Tom WP US


 I  believe that two way converters work on the hydrocarbons and Carbon
monoxide.  However, I think that they do 
some conversion of Nitrogen oxides to Nitrogen.

However, most of the Nitrogen oxides are generated by the high temperature
of combustion breaking down the 
N to N triple bonds.  The nitrogen in the fuel can increase nitrogen oxides
but most are formed due to high peak 
combustion temperatures.  To control this, one must reduce combustion
temperature.  I have heard of water 
injection or using water in diesel emulsion to reduce peak combustion
temperatures and thus reducing
Nitrogen oxide formation.

Years ago I heard of a new technology that used a gold catalyst in a strong
electro magnetic field to reduce 
Nitrogen oxides to Nitrogen.  But I have not kept up with the technology.

tom
-Original Message-
From: Robert Del Bueno [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2004 1:44 PM
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [biofuel] NOX and catalytic converter use


So does a 2 way catalytic converter have any effect on NOx, specifically 
with biodiesel usage?
I am sure you see what I am getting at.
NOx emissions combined with high ambient VOCs are very problematic for 
urban areas (specifically Atlanta, GA).
In order to be able to really push biodiesel usage, the NOx rise must be 
addressed.

I have also been looking into those various pre-combustion fuel 
catalysts..like the Fitch and the Rentar. Anyone had any experience with 
these?..they look to produce decent NOx reductions on petro-diesel.
http://www.fitchfuelcatalyst.com/
http://www.rentar.com

-Rob

At 01:39 AM 8/20/2004 +0900, you wrote:
Hello Tom

Nice to hear from you again, it's been awhile.

I hope we can settle his question, I think quite a lot of biod users
want to know this.

 I thought that gas catalytic converters required extra air (oxygen) to
 operate. Most gas engines will pump gas into the exhaust
 before the converter to convert hydrocarbons to water and CO2 (this
chemical
 reaction requires Oxygen)  Carbon Monoxide to CO2
 (this chemical reaction requires Oxygen) the third reaction is Nitrogen
 Oxides to Nitrogen.
 
 The problem with the current Diesel fuel in the US is that the Sulfur
 present which will coat the insides of the converter.

Does it do that or does it destroy the catalyst?

 Like Leaded
 gas did in the early 1970's.
 
 Car makers have worked hard at getting better engines and converters but
no
 one has looked at the source of the problem, sulfur in the
 fuel and guess what BIO D solves that problem

Nobody wants to criticise the oil companies! Especially here in
Japan, to a quite bizarre extent, but it seems to be a general
malaise. The only time I've ever heard it suggested in any way
officially was in Hong Kong in 1996 when a legislator with close ties
to the tranport industry said: Why not just improve the existing
diesel fuel and reduce its particulates? Everyone else politely
pretended she hadn't said it.

Best wishes

Keith



 
 Tom
 
 
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
 From: Donald Allwright [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 6:28 PM
 To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [biofuel] NOX and catalytic converter use
 
 
 
 --- Robert Del Bueno [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Can NOX emission increases from the use of biodiesel be successfully
   dealt
   with (at least brought back down to baseline) using a catalytic
   converter
   (in the event a vehicle uses sulfur free b100 only) ?
 
 The short answer - no. Petrol (gasoline) engines have a 3 way catalytic
 converter which can get rid of NOx, but this only works if there is no
 oxygen left in the exhaust. For this reason a stoichiometric mixture of
 fuel and oxygen is required. Diesel engines are lean-burn engines,
 which means that they have far more air present than a stoichiometric
 mix, and hence there is oxygen left in the exhaust. If a 3-way
 catalytic converter were fitted, it would actually combine the oxygen
 left with nitrogen and produce _more_ NOx emissions. For this reason,
 Diesel engines are fitted with 2-way catalytic converters, which are
 able to break down unburnt hydrocarbons very effectively. This is
 therefore unaffected by whether you are using petrodiesel or biodiesel.
 
 
 I'm not sure what the third catalyst in a 3-way CC does - it's been a
 few years since I studied engine operation!
 
 Hope that helps,
 Donald
 
 =
 --
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Re: [biofuel] Heating element

2004-08-23 Thread Friedrich Friesinger


Hi Joseph,
once your Heating Element is installed to your Drum,take a Thermostate from
a recycled Hotwatertank and fasten it to the Drum.Make your connections with
a 12 gage wire to a Braker in your electrical Distributor.Phase against
phase with the Thermostate in Line,there you go! Dont swich the Braker
before the Connections are all made and secured-the Drum filled!!!
If you made a mistake,the Braker will jump thats all
regards Fritz
- Original Message - 
From: josephputzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 4:42 PM
Subject: [biofuel] Heating element


 Hello all,

 I've just begun to build a processor out of two 55 gallon drums.  I
 am having a 1 bushing welded to the drum so that I can put a screw-
 in heating element into the processor.  I wanted the bushing so that
 I can take out the element for cleaning and whatnot.  My trouble is
 that I'm not much for electrical components.  I have a 4.5 kw 240 v
 element.  How do I safely attach a power cord with the given wattage
 and voltage? Is 4.5 kw to high? Should I find a 1.5 or 2.0 kw element
 instead?

 Any help would be great!






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Fw: [biofuel] Heating element

2004-08-23 Thread Friedrich Friesinger

- Original Message - 
From: Friedrich Friesinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Heating element

 Hi Joseph,
 once your Heating Element is installed to your Drum,take a Thermostate
from
 a recycled Hotwatertank and fasten it to the Drum.Make your connections
with
 a 12 gage wire to a Braker in your electrical Distributor.Phase against
 phase with the Thermostate in Line,there you go! Dont swich the Braker
 before the Connections are all made and secured-the Drum filled!!!
 If you made a mistake,the Braker will jump thats all
 regards Fritz

sorry Joseph,
i forgot to mention the Groundwire should be attachet to the Drum so it has
good contact with the Metall
Girl Marks way is good,but i would go direct in the electrical Box for the
connection and not with a plug in!

 - Original Message - 
 From: josephputzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 4:42 PM
 Subject: [biofuel] Heating element

  Hello all,

  I've just begun to build a processor out of two 55 gallon drums.  I
  am having a 1 bushing welded to the drum so that I can put a screw-
  in heating element into the processor.  I wanted the bushing so that
  I can take out the element for cleaning and whatnot.  My trouble is
  that I'm not much for electrical components.  I have a 4.5 kw 240 v
  element.  How do I safely attach a power cord with the given wattage
  and voltage? Is 4.5 kw to high? Should I find a 1.5 or 2.0 kw element
  instead?

  Any help would be great!

  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

  Biofuels list archives:
  http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/

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[biofuel] Fwd: Benefit Bash for BioDiesel this weekend!



In a message dated 8/23/04 11:06:39 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 If you haven't gotten your tickets yet...please,
 please forward to any and all who would be interested.
 
 Saturday,Ê August 28 * 7:00Ê at Memorial Hall
 
 CHARLES NEVILLEÊ Benefit Bash for Tom Leue  BioDiesel
 
 The Charles Neville Quartet offers up a spirited blend
 of New Orleans-style Latin jazz  funk in a benefit
 bash for Ashfield resident Tom Leue, whose biodiesel
 barn facility burned down in October. We hope to have
 a momentous showing of community support to benefit
 biodiesel in the Valley - come learn about and support
 the plan for the proposed biodiesel refinery.
 
 $15 advanceÊ /Ê $17 door /ÊÊ under 18 half price
 
 INFO  TICKETS
 Location: Memorial Hall theater in Shelburne Falls
 seats 425. (51 Bridge Street)
 Advance tickets available at: Boswell's Books  World
 Eye Bookshop
 On-Line tix: www.HilltownFolk.com ($1.50 surcharge)
 Tix by phone w/ credit card (413) 625-2580Ê ($1.50
 surcharge)
 Information: Gayle Olson, 413-625-2580
 
 Web site/Directions: www.HilltownFolk.com
 
 






-
Homestead Inc.
www.yellowbiodiesel.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

2004-08-23 Thread Ken Provost


on 8/22/04 10:27 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 The diagram suggests that I can accomodate
 about 2% to 5% water in ethanol and blend
 it with gasoline without separation at 21 deg. C.

Yes, if you want to use mostly gasoline -- I personally like
that big clear area at the top of the diagram, say, around
80% ethanol, 10% water, and 10% gasoline. You'd still have
to distill the alcohol to get that high, but a simple still
(no fractionation or mol. sieve req'd) would do it. Of course,
at those percentages, why bother with the gasoline at all?


 I read a warning somewhere that this isn't wise because
 the water will separate out at low temperatures.
 Then, I wondered, is THIS a way to make a blend without dry
 alcohol, to cool the mix and remove the water.  (I understand,
 it's all in the phase diagram, and if it works the wrong way,
 just all of the alcohol separates out too.)
 


Yup, I think that's what would happen -- lowering the temp.
causes the binodal curve (the boundary where one phase
breaks up into two) to move upward in the diagram.


-K




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[biofuel] Re: Heating element


First off your 1 inch bushing won't seal it completely without a 
whack of plumbing tape (the white stuff). Wherever they sell water 
heaters they usualy also have conversion flnges for those who have a 
square element and want to install a round screw in type, which is 
what I did, twice, once for the processor and then I had the second 
flange welded into the side of my pre-heat tank, and both are 110V.
There are two screws on each element and you simply attach one wire 
to one screw and the other wire to the other. The flange package 
come with a rubber grommet tha fits well over the whole electrical 
thing and protects it from electrical shorts.
A note of caution however, if you have a square element in your 
water heater and want to convert it, like I did. Once you make the 
conversion the cover will no longer fit over the whole thing without 
touching the electrical contacts so what I did was to thouroughly 
insulate the INSIDE of the cover with pink insulation and duct taped 
it down so it wouldn't move and then I only tightened the one screw 
on the outside of the cover before insulating the whole processor 
yet further with pink and then followed that with a thermal balnket 
that they use for heating ducts. It seems to work well.

L.

--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, josephputzer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 Hello all,
 
 I've just begun to build a processor out of two 55 gallon drums.  
I 
 am having a 1 bushing welded to the drum so that I can put a 
screw-
 in heating element into the processor.  I wanted the bushing so 
that 
 I can take out the element for cleaning and whatnot.  My trouble 
is 
 that I'm not much for electrical components.  I have a 4.5 kw 240 
v 
 element.  How do I safely attach a power cord with the given 
wattage 
 and voltage? Is 4.5 kw to high? Should I find a 1.5 or 2.0 kw 
element 
 instead?
 
 Any help would be great!




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[biofuel] Handy all Measurement Conversion Tool


This is an .exe file that installs on your desktop or you can have 
it open in a directory/folder.
Someone posted it here a while ago and I find that it is very useful 
when I need to convey to people in the US volumes that I only have 
in metric measurements.
http://www.joshmadison.com/software/convert/

Other conversion tools are :
http://convert.french-property.co.uk/
http://www.teaching-english-in-japan.net/conversion/celsius

With all of these there is no way that anyone will not be able to 
make any volume conversion in,or from either imperial,US or metric 
back to either of the above.

L.




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Re: [biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

2004-08-23 Thread Greg Harbican



This may sound stupid, but, why not filter the beer to get the particles out, 
then freeze the water out?

This was used by old timers to make a hard cider more potent.   In the winter 
they would leave the fermented cider outside, over night, then throw out the 
water ice in the morning.Each time they did it, it would have less and less 
water, and more alcohol.

Greg H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: pan ruti 
  To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 03:53
  Subject: Re: [biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?


  Helo Ken and arcologic

  Alcohol extraction  intead of distillation is  an novel process inovation  
which is being studied in a semi comercial scale in Canada   sucessfuly using 
simultaneaous fermentation and extraction using som solvent  non toxic that is 
being recycled.(octanol)

  In extracion of of alcohol from water using fase diagram , one can  improve 
the process using cosolvents (Caster oil ) as well as surface active 
agents(Biodeisel) .Thus a  good  biofuel mixture of low cost can be  surely  
made possible , but some one from our biofuel group  need to optimze the 
process of this new extraction to be practical using this novel approach.

  sd
  Pannirselvam

  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Thanks, Ken,

  For the excellent response.  Your suggested search worked great.  I put 
  gasoline ethanol water ternary phase diagram into Google, got a copy of 
the 
  diagram at 21 deg. C.

  Here's the question I have thought about--

  The diagram suggests that I can accomodate about 2% to 5% water in ethanol 
  and blend it with gasoline without separation at 21 deg. C.  I read a warning 
  somewhere that this isn't wise because the water will separate out at low 
  temperatures.  Then, I wondered, is THIS a way to make a blend without dry 
alcohol, 
  to cool the mix and remove the water.  (I understand, it's all in the phase 
  diagram, and if it works the wrong way, just all of the alcohol separates out 
  too.)

  So, what do you think?   I suppose if I weren't lazy, I would start looking 
  for a low-temperature diagram.  /Ernie

  In a message dated 8/22/2004 10:10:52 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
  biofuel@yahoogroups.com writes:
  Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:12:04 -0700
 From: Ken Provost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

  on 8/22/04 10:19 AM, jseabolt2002 at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
   
   Here's my theory. Gasoline and alcohol will mix. Alcohol and water
   also will mix. But gasoline is lighter than water so it floats and
   doesn't mix.
   
   So does that mean if you took the alcohol/water from the mash and
   mixed it with gasoline, would the alcohol attach itself to the
   gasoline and what you would end up with is water on the bottom and
   gasoline/alcohol on the top? Then just decant the mixtures?
   
   


  It's hard to describe the whole system verbally, but you can
  do a Google search for the ternary phase diagram of the
  ethanol-water-gasoline system and everything will come clear.
  Essentially, your idea doesn't work. With no water present,
  ethanol is infinitely soluble (miscible) with gasoline. But
  being a polar molecule, it vastly prefers water. Thus, in
  mixtures of all three, the alcohol forms a phase with the
  water, while the gasoline remains a separate phase. In other
  words, you CAN use water to extract ethanol from gasoline,
  but you CAN'T use gasoline to extract ethanol from water.

  -K


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[biofuel] for member bioveging:


When are you going to post (somewhere) some photos of this cabinet 
system of yours? please?

Mark




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[biofuel] Re: Love Those one inch Clear Water Pumps -G-Mark


--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, bioveging [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 All this came about by following your recommendations and hints, G-
 Mark. The gravity feed 



Hey, thank you very much for the kind words, but it's not just me who 
designed that system by any stretch. Lots and lots of people's ideas 
have been creeping into the water heater processor design and helping 
it evolve, and that's why you should also add to it by posting your 
own photos in the veggieavenger.com open-source biodiesel equipment 
forum, to add to the general knowledge (or even post descriptions if 
you dont have a camera).
 Thanks for the positive feedback anyway, even though it should go out 
to everybody who contributed! I really hope the other people who have 
contributed realise how much their contributions have helped 
newcomers.

mark




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Re: [biofuel] Diesels...


Keith,

On behalf of me, and I am sure many others, thank you for the recent
excellent library on diesels, their operation and health and 
environmental effects. We
need to know about the technology we are dealing with. Again, you are making
all of us more knowledgeable and capable with your excellent research.

Tom Leue

Thankyou Tom, you're welcome, hope it helps.

Hope it'll also help give us some definitive answers on whether/which 
catalytic converters we can use.

Best wishes

Keith



-
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Re: [biofuel] Need A Name Contest

2004-08-23 Thread James Slayden




GreaseWerks B100  :)

James

On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 As I have referred to in the past, Homestead Inc. and CoopPlus of Western
 Massachusetts are joining forces to create a new small commercial sized
 biodiesel
 processor in Western Massachusetts. Anticipated construction date is by
 or
 before January of 2005.
 
 One thing that's a little stuck right now is a PRODUCT NAME. I'm the only
 one
 who likes my previous product name, Yellow brand PREMIUM Biodiesel, so we
 have to look elsewhere. Here's an offer: if anyone can help us find a new
 product
 name for our biodiesel, made from 100% recycled vegetable oil, collected
 from
 the local generators and sold to the local users as 100% roadworthy
 biodiesel, there is a reward for you!
 
 The person who suggests the best name for our biodiesel, in our opinion,
 for
 our new main product of B-100, will receive ten (10) certificates, each
 good
 for five gallons of B-100 biodiesel! This will require the name be
 registrable
 for our company.These certificates normally are sold for $10.00 each, and
 will
 be worth even more in the near future. Biodiesel is f.o.b. the factory,
 and
 the certificates are redeemable after the factory opens for normal
 production,
 expected by early 2006.
 
 Send to the list here, or send to me directly, its your choice. I'll
 publish
 the name when it is chosen in the next 30 to 45 days, and name the lucky
 winner of all of that biodiesel! Note that if the corporate venture does
 its own
 name inventing, there will be no web based winner.   But give it a few
 minutes
 thought, the winner could be you!
 
 
 Tom Leue
 
 
 
 
 -
 Homestead Inc.
 www.yellowbiodiesel.com
 
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 
 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
 Biofuels list archives:
 http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
 
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[biofuel] Re: Love Those one inch Clear Water Pumps -G-Mark


Mark

You're not a newcomer to Internet forums, and I'm sure you know that 
it's very bad Netiquette to post messages to one forum promoting 
another. That's generally accepted as a no-no and the online 
resources on Netiquette are quite clear about it. There are quite a 
few lists where doing that will get you instantly banned. At the very 
least you should ask first.

You've now done this here repeatedly. Of course it's okay to point to 
a particular item at another forum if it's of relevance to a 
discussion, but this is outright promotion, which is not okay at all. 
Not only that, you've more or less demanded that I put the thing on 
Journey to Forever. You'd already asked me that three times offlist 
and didn't get a response. Quite obviously that WAS the response - 
you think I didn't notice or something? Three times? I'm not exactly 
famous for not noticing such things. So you bring it onlist?

Keith, please add to my Appleseed article that you have posted on
journeytoforever, the link to the original material that it's derived from:
www.veggieavenger.com/media or at least a link to the Appleseed thread on
veggieavenger.com/media . I'm planning on cleaning up that thread pretty
soon here so it'll be more legible.

Anyway, it didn't come from veggieavenger.com, it came from a piece 
you wrote for Homepower, or so you said at the time. And also from 
your 'zine. Whatever, I've my own good reasons for not doing so and 
I'm not about to defend them to you, nor to anybody. You certainly 
shouldn't have raised it here.

As for your pushing people to post info and pics about their 
processors there, and all this stuff about Open Source homebrew 
equipment and so on, the Biofuel list and Journey to Forever have 
been doing that for a long time, rather adequately, and I see 
absolutely no need or benefit in taking it somewhere else. Let it 
happen as it will, naturally and of its own accord, no problem - but 
stop touting for it.

Previous from me, onlist, to you:

That said, we've been at least as much as anyone else at the 
forefront of open-source technology development and its basic 
philosophy of sharing - it's exactly why we started the Biofuel list 
in the first place four and half years ago. We constantly 
acknowledge it and we're kind of tireless in promoting it, one 
reason for that being that it works so well.

The very term open source in connection with biofuels technology 
was first mentioned here.

But we've discussed all this before, haven't we?

Keith Addison
Journey to Forever
http://journeytoforever.org/
Biofuel list owner


--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, bioveging [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
  All this came about by following your recommendations and hints, G-
  Mark. The gravity feed



Hey, thank you very much for the kind words, but it's not just me who
designed that system by any stretch. Lots and lots of people's ideas
have been creeping into the water heater processor design and helping
it evolve, and that's why you should also add to it by posting your
own photos in the veggieavenger.com open-source biodiesel equipment
forum, to add to the general knowledge (or even post descriptions if
you dont have a camera).
 Thanks for the positive feedback anyway, even though it should go out
to everybody who contributed! I really hope the other people who have
contributed realise how much their contributions have helped
newcomers.

mark



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Re: [biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

2004-08-23 Thread pan ruti


Helo Greg
 
The idea is very good one and not a stupid as the low temperature can 
surely  favour the phase seperations and hence  alcohol extraction using some 
thermal effect.This  temperature effect should be also included and  it should 
be  optimized eventhouh  the energy cost  of the same  can make this process 
undesirable.Yours is not a  stupid idea , as stupid is relative to something 
more better.As we  the list memebers  presently do not have better process, we 
need results to find which is the best and worst.First  we need  new ideas, 
information flows  , this first step is called  process synthesis and then we 
all can do analyses , to know which is  stupid, finally the stupid one can be 
optimized too to make  inovation by the using optimazation technics.Alarge 
group such us ours can come of with inovative idea so that some one can test  
and prove it , rather than make trial and error aproach as we have good experts 
from diferent fields.The biodiversity of our list memebers are really
 very good  TO MAKE  INOVATIVE  NOVEL PROCESS .
Thank you for novel idea.
sd
Pannirselvam .P.V

Greg Harbican [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This may sound stupid, but, why not filter the beer to get the particles out, 
then freeze the water out?

This was used by old timers to make a hard cider more potent.   In the winter 
they would leave the fermented cider outside, over night, then throw out the 
water ice in the morning.Each time they did it, it would have less and less 
water, and more alcohol.

Greg H.
  - Original Message - 
  From: pan ruti 
  To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 03:53
  Subject: Re: [biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?


  Helo Ken and arcologic

  Alcohol extraction  intead of distillation is  an novel process inovation  
which is being studied in a semi comercial scale in Canada   sucessfuly using 
simultaneaous fermentation and extraction using som solvent  non toxic that is 
being recycled.(octanol)

  In extracion of of alcohol from water using fase diagram , one can  improve 
the process using cosolvents (Caster oil ) as well as surface active 
agents(Biodeisel) .Thus a  good  biofuel mixture of low cost can be  surely  
made possible , but some one from our biofuel group  need to optimze the 
process of this new extraction to be practical using this novel approach.

  sd
  Pannirselvam

  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Thanks, Ken,

  For the excellent response.  Your suggested search worked great.  I put 
  gasoline ethanol water ternary phase diagram into Google, got a copy of 
the 
  diagram at 21 deg. C.

  Here's the question I have thought about--

  The diagram suggests that I can accomodate about 2% to 5% water in ethanol 
  and blend it with gasoline without separation at 21 deg. C.  I read a warning 
  somewhere that this isn't wise because the water will separate out at low 
  temperatures.  Then, I wondered, is THIS a way to make a blend without dry 
alcohol, 
  to cool the mix and remove the water.  (I understand, it's all in the phase 
  diagram, and if it works the wrong way, just all of the alcohol separates out 
  too.)

  So, what do you think?   I suppose if I weren't lazy, I would start looking 
  for a low-temperature diagram.  /Ernie

  In a message dated 8/22/2004 10:10:52 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
  biofuel@yahoogroups.com writes:
  Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:12:04 -0700
 From: Ken Provost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

  on 8/22/04 10:19 AM, jseabolt2002 at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
   
   Here's my theory. Gasoline and alcohol will mix. Alcohol and water
   also will mix. But gasoline is lighter than water so it floats and
   doesn't mix.
   
   So does that mean if you took the alcohol/water from the mash and
   mixed it with gasoline, would the alcohol attach itself to the
   gasoline and what you would end up with is water on the bottom and
   gasoline/alcohol on the top? Then just decant the mixtures?
   
   


  It's hard to describe the whole system verbally, but you can
  do a Google search for the ternary phase diagram of the
  ethanol-water-gasoline system and everything will come clear.
  Essentially, your idea doesn't work. With no water present,
  ethanol is infinitely soluble (miscible) with gasoline. But
  being a polar molecule, it vastly prefers water. Thus, in
  mixtures of all three, the alcohol forms a phase with the
  water, while the gasoline remains a separate phase. In other
  words, you CAN use water to extract ethanol from gasoline,
  but you CAN'T use gasoline to extract ethanol from water.

  -K


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

  Biofuels list archives:
  http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/

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  To unsubscribe, send an email

[biofuel] Need A Name Contest


As I have referred to in the past, Homestead Inc. and CoopPlus of Western 
Massachusetts are joining forces to create a new small commercial sized 
biodiesel 
processor in Western Massachusetts. Anticipated construction date is by or 
before January of 2005.

One thing that's a little stuck right now is a PRODUCT NAME. I'm the only one 
who likes my previous product name, Yellow brand PREMIUM Biodiesel, so we 
have to look elsewhere. Here's an offer: if anyone can help us find a new 
product 
name for our biodiesel, made from 100% recycled vegetable oil, collected from 
the local generators and sold to the local users as 100% roadworthy 
biodiesel, there is a reward for you!

The person who suggests the best name for our biodiesel, in our opinion, for 
our new main product of B-100, will receive ten (10) certificates, each good 
for five gallons of B-100 biodiesel! This will require the name be registrable 
for our company.These certificates normally are sold for $10.00 each, and will 
be worth even more in the near future. Biodiesel is f.o.b. the factory, and 
the certificates are redeemable after the factory opens for normal production, 
expected by early 2006.

Send to the list here, or send to me directly, its your choice. I'll publish 
the name when it is chosen in the next 30 to 45 days, and name the lucky 
winner of all of that biodiesel! Note that if the corporate venture does its 
own 
name inventing, there will be no web based winner.   But give it a few minutes 
thought, the winner could be you!


Tom Leue




-
Homestead Inc.
www.yellowbiodiesel.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [biofuel] Re: NOx and catalytic converter use.


The EPA and the Bush Administration have agreed that sulfur in American 
diesel fuel will be lowered to 15 ppm as of June 30, 2006. At that time it will 
be 
clean enough to not contaminate catalytic converters intended to reduce NOx 
contaminants. 

Can anyone definitively state that 2% biodiesel is the cheapest lubricity 
additive? How about 1-1/2%? What about with a tax credit behind it? Any ideas 
as 
to what the canola type additives are going for, and if they are not 
biodiesel, what are they?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Tom Leue

In a message dated 8/19/04 3:47:46 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Sulfur attacks the catalyst.Ê Sulfur oxidizes most metals.
 
 EPA has a schedule for phase-out of sulfur in fuels.Ê The date for switch to
 low-sulfur gasoline happened, January 2004 (at 15 ppm).Ê The switch to
 low-sulfur diesel is scheduled for 2009, currently, at 10 ppm.Ê 
 Very-low-sulfur
 diesel is currently available in Canada (I saw the pump in Edmonton), and in 
 Europe.
 
 I just posted a query to a list that contains some automotive engineers.Ê I
 will pass on any knowledge forthcoming.
 
 We (I - sorry) have discussed at length whether NOx should be counted as a
 pollutant.
 
 Ernie Rogers
 
 Keith said,
 
 Does it do that or does it destroy the catalyst?
 
 Like Leaded
 gas did in the early 1970's.
 
 Car makers have worked hard at getting better engines and converters but no
 one has looked at the source of the problem, sulfur in the
 fuel and guess what BIO D solves that problem
 
 Nobody wants to criticize the oil companies! Especially here in
 Japan, to a quite bizarre extent, but it seems to be a general
 malaise. The only time I've ever heard it suggested in any way
 officially was in Hong Kong in 1996 when a legislator with close ties
 to the transport industry said: Why not just improve the existing
 diesel fuel and reduce its particulates? Everyone else politely
 pretended she hadn't said it.
 
 Best wishes
 
 Keith
 
 






-
Homestead Inc.
www.yellowbiodiesel.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [biofuel] Fw: Kerry and Bolivia: To the Right of Bush?

2004-08-23 Thread Sam Johnston



At 03:18 AM 8/23/2004 +0900, you wrote:

Hi Keith,

You're right about all that, mostly, but the q is what to do about it 
between now and Nov 2? I fully agree with your points about politics in the 
US and esp. the media. And I couldnt agree more about the importance of US 
policies to the rest of the world - that's precisely (one reason) why I am 
an activist and not something else much more fun and/or remunerative.

It's a matter of strategy.  As Saul Alinsky pointed out in Rules for 
Radicals (a substantial misnomer), you dont get from here to there by 
starting there; you start here, taking the world as it is, and go one step 
at a time. Folks who live in parliamentary systems dont generally 
appreciate the futility of coalitioning tactics that may be well suited for 
those systems but which amount to one step forward, two steps back here 
in the US. And it's a little silly to paint Americans with a broad brush 
based on our admittedly lame and often fraudulent corporate media. Many 
intelligent Americans, and most progressives, get their news from 
non-corporate sources. BTW another 4 years of Bush will help reform the 
media --- how exactly?? Not to mention oil and gas subsidies, etc etc etc 
etc etc - and OF COURSE we cant just let the leaders take care of us. But 
all the progressive grassroots pressure in the world will do absolutely 
nothing to change Bush's mind on anything (e.g. antiwar protests - biggest 
in world history). But Kerry and the dems, precisely in part bc of their 
squid-like nature, will bend to a strong grassroots wind. That's why Im 
telling everybody that a Kerry victory would not be the be-all end-all, but 
would be just the beginning, and we then will have to hold their feet to 
the fire and give them the grassroots political cover they need, in this 
our American system, to do the right thing.

What if Bush squeaks by? Will Cockburn and Nader then celebrate? Yeah, we 
showed those Democrats. How will the rest of the world celebrate if that 
happens? ... and you're right Keith, relax was a poor choice of words. I 
should say dont freak out just because some say Kerry isnt any different 
from Bush. They're wrong.

OK Ive said more than enough, thanks for all the great posts, that goes for 
ALL. Thanks again Keith.

-Sam



Hello Sam

I don't really disagree with you, much, but I do think you're being
somewhat simplistic about both Alex Cockburn and Ralph Nader. Sure,
state an opinion, but many others have stated different and opposite
opinions and substantiated them somewhat better than you have.

I have to comment on this:

 Folks who dont live in the US are allowed, by the way, not to understand
 how politics in this country works.

:-)

Or rather add to it. First, thankyou, how kind, especially
considering that we don't get to vote in your democracy but the
outcome affects all of us, in many cases it affects us more and worse
than it affects you.

Thus it follows that folks who do live in the US are NOT allowed not
to understand how politics in your country works.

Folks who don't live in the US are allowed to understand how politics
in your country doesn't work.

Frankly, considering the lame and half-hearted mea culpas now
reluctantly and belatedly appearing in some of your mainstream press,
comparing their coverage of issues in your country in the last four
years with that of the rest of the world, your view is just a little
bit rich. Folks who don't live in the US were and are way ahead of
you.

Regarding how many, or how few, folks who live in the US understand
how your politics works, I think Todd's comment is relevant:

   progressive actions is more the result
   of a vigilant civil society than the act of conscience on the 
 politician's
   part.
 
 If the people lead, the leaders will follow. Which is essentially what a
 representative government is supposed to operate like. Unfortuantely, the
 masses keep forgetting that and let the politicians screw everything up.

... along with mine on just why that might be.

 Relax folks,

Are you kidding???

Best wishes

Keith




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Re: [biofuel] Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

2004-08-23 Thread Ken Provost


on 8/22/04 10:19 AM, jseabolt2002 at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 
 Here's my theory. Gasoline and alcohol will mix. Alcohol and water
 also will mix. But gasoline is lighter than water so it floats and
 doesn't mix.
 
 So does that mean if you took the alcohol/water from the mash and
 mixed it with gasoline, would the alcohol attach itself to the
 gasoline and what you would end up with is water on the bottom and
 gasoline/alcohol on the top? Then just decant the mixtures?
 
 


It's hard to describe the whole system verbally, but you can
do a Google search for the ternary phase diagram of the
ethanol-water-gasoline system and everything will come clear.
Essentially, your idea doesn't work. With no water present,
ethanol is infinitely soluble (miscible) with gasoline. But
being a polar molecule, it vastly prefers water. Thus, in
mixtures of all three, the alcohol forms a phase with the
water, while the gasoline remains a separate phase. In other
words, you CAN use water to extract ethanol from gasoline,
but you CAN'T use gasoline to extract ethanol from water.

-K




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[biofuel] Chicago B100 bulk buy- anyone interested?

Hi all,

there is someone posting on the tdiclub forum, who is looking for others to
purchase tote-quantities (275 gallon IBC containers) of B100.

I know that I have heard a few people grumbling in the past about the fact
that they didn't know any other biodieselers in Chicago but wanted to get
some kind of bulk buy group or coop together. I unfortunately dont' have
y'alls contact info anymore.

here's the link if you are interested, or know of a location to stage the
distribution of the fuel:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?Cat=Number=809335page=0view=collapsedsb=5o=7fpart=1#Post812558

I think if you click on the guy's name on the left of the page, a way to
contact him off-list comes up (click to send private message). Or maybe
you'd have to register as a forum member first, I can't tell...

Mark

*
www.LocalB100.com

www.veggieavenger.com/media- open-design homebrew biodiesel equipment plans

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/local-b100-biz-biodiesel co-ops and
biodiesel small business discussion forum

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieselbasics -the alternative Yahoo
biodiesel list

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[biofuel] MEASURING WVO FOR MIXING

2004-08-23 Thread mark johnson II


I PROBABLY BE ASKING ALOT OF QUESTIONS UNTIL I UNDERSTAND THE WHOLE PROCESS. 
I HAVE A 55 GALLON DRUM FOR MY WVO.  AFTER I 'VE MADE MY METHOXIDE,ETC... 
HOW DO I KNOW HOW MUCH WVO  TO PUMP INTO THE MY WATER HEATER?  HOW DO I 
MEASURE THE WVO WHILE IT'S IN THE DRUM,AND BEFORE IT GOES IN WATER HEATER?  
THIS JUST DAWNED ON ME ON MY WAY BACK FROM GETTING SUPPLIES FOR MY FIRST 
TEST BATCH.  I AM TRYING TO GET MY APPLE SEED PROSSER READY FOR WHEN I GET 
MY TEST BATCHES RIGHT.

_
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and 
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[biofuel] Heating element

2004-08-23 Thread josephputzer


Hello all,

I've just begun to build a processor out of two 55 gallon drums.  I 
am having a 1 bushing welded to the drum so that I can put a screw-
in heating element into the processor.  I wanted the bushing so that 
I can take out the element for cleaning and whatnot.  My trouble is 
that I'm not much for electrical components.  I have a 4.5 kw 240 v 
element.  How do I safely attach a power cord with the given wattage 
and voltage? Is 4.5 kw to high? Should I find a 1.5 or 2.0 kw element 
instead?

Any help would be great! 
  




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[biofuel] Re: Extracting alcohol instead of distilling?

2004-08-23 Thread jseabolt2002


--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello jseabolt2002
 
 This came up on the list a couple of years back. I haven't done an 
 archive search for it, but you might try it:
 http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
 
 IIRC it doesn't work that way, the water won't part company with 
the 
 ethanol, but I can't remember why not.
 
 Not trying to put a damper on you, it's interesting, I hope you and 
 others here with more of a grip on such things than I have might 
shed 
 some light on it - maybe there's a way of getting it to work after 
 all. The killer would be a good way of separating the resulting 
 absolute ethanol from the gasoline. Simple distillation?

Actually my goal was to just get around having to do any distillation 
period. Even if it meant creating a gasoline/alcohol blend. I'm not 
that concerned with separating the gasoline from the alcohol. Even if 
I end up with a 50/50 mixture, that's half gasoline I am not using.






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Re: [biofuel] Diesels...


Keith,

On behalf of me, and I am sure many others, thank you for the recent 
excellent library on diesels, their operation and health and environmental 
effects. We 
need to know about the technology we are dealing with. Again, you are making 
all of us more knowledgeable and capable with your excellent research.

Tom Leue




-
Homestead Inc.
www.yellowbiodiesel.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[biofuel] Re: Need help on setup of processor


Hello Al,
My comments between yours below...


--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, pcambulance2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi,
I am a newbie to this site.  I am located in Louisiana and 
 looking for lots of guidance on setting up my own system.  I have 
 been on several sites.  Initially I wanted to purchase the 
 fuelmiester system but looking at several posts, I am convinced that 
 I need to setup my own system.  I am hoping that I have someone 
 close that I can look at their system.  Maybe someone is looking to 
 build a bigger processor and wants to sell their smaller unit.
 
 http://www.utahbiodiesel.org/~jack/
 
 http://www.veggieavenger.com/
 
 http://www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel.html
 
 Right now I am leaning towards the hot water heater based system.  
 Is that the best system for doing this?  


I started promoting these system designs because absolutely anyone in 
the US can find the parts readily, and they're cheap, and easy to 
assemble. Also, I think the safety margin on water heaters is a bit 
better than on some other types of flimsier tanks, and they're already 
partially wired and insulated, which is an easy starter reactor.

 If you can weld, or can pay someone locally to do some welding, you 
have a lot more options using other types of tanks that you might have 
available at your salvage yards. If you want a small system, I'd 
recommend trying to make something out of a beer keg or a 100 pound 
(25 gallon) discarded (or brand new) propane tank if you're a handy 
person or can pay a weld shop to do it, but otherwise, water heaters 
are extremely easy to work with even with no prior skills, and are 
readily available in the US. I recommend pretty much anything that's 
NOT copper, galvanized,  or plastic, as a reactor tank, it all depends 
on the availability and your skill level or desire to learn the 
fabrication skills at this time.


I am a little concerned 
 about safety issues with the system.  I really would like a self 
 contained application so don't have to worry about spillage.  
 
the other way to make it safer is to hard-plumb (ie in black steel 
pipe) the output from the pump (what's normally just a tube that goes 
from the pump and returns back to the tank). You'd also want to add a 
sight tube (that can be shut off with valves while in use) so you can 
see the level you're filling the tank to. A photo of this type of 
setup (and a complete system, with two wash tanks or settling tanks) 
is at: http://www.veggieavenger.com/avengerboard/viewtopic.php?t=453
It might look a little more complicated in Steve;s case than it 
absolutely needs to. 


 I also needs groups recommendation on the following pump.  Is it 
 worth the money or is their a better solution out there?
 
 Dispensing bio-diesel
 http://www.biodieselwarehouse.com/12vobifupu.html


I can't tell what brand this one is. At my house we use a Northern 
cheapo (same price as his is selling for, probably something very 
similar to what he's selling) and it's fine for dispensing finished 
biodiesel. But you don't absolutely need to invest in such a pump just 
for dispensing. You can use a $20 cast iron cheapo handcranked barrel 
pump from Harbor Freight, or from local farm supply places if you have 
them nearby, to pump finished fuel through your filter (my filter is a 
$20 whole house water filter from Lowe's, the blue canister type that 
takes 5 micron sediment cartridges designed for filtering water).  You 
can also rig your Appleseed processor so that the clear water pump 
(processor pump) filters the fuel on the way out of the wash barrel.



 
 Retrieving waste out from pickup locations
 http://www.biodieselwarehouse.com/12vodupu.html



This one is a really nice pump, if it's the one Im thinking of. I've 
seen it used by customers of Neoteric Biofuels- from the 
biodieselwarehouse photo it looks like it's a FilRite, which is a good 
quality company that makes nice pumps. I'd like to have one myself, if 
it's the same model as Neoteric sells. 

Craig Reece of neoteric put his into a big ammo box for portability, 
and powers it off one of those cheap 'emergency jump starter' units 
from the auto parts store, which is a very small battery with two 
jumper cables, a handle, and a charger all built in. I power my own 
small 12V pump off a deep cycle battery and I curse every time I have 
to unload it.


 
 Not intended to advertise, just want feedback.  Also I don't see a 
 way to filter the fluids being picked up and dispensed.  I have read 
 that you need to prefilter the waste oil on pickup so it does not 
 clog your filter.  


You prefilter waste oil only if using it for SVO-converted cars, in 
which case filtering is very important. 

For biodiesel making, I personally don't really filter it at all, but 
I usually get nice liquid oil without too much garbage in it.

If you're making biodiesel out of it, most homebrewers 'at most' need 
only to strain it using coarse mesh (so french fry bits and broken

[biofuel] Biodiesel Workshop in Salt lake City, September 1 and 2


Homebrew Biodiesel Comprehensive Workshop

Two evenings: September 1 and 2,  6-9 pm
Salt Lake City, Utah
for more information, to register, and for directions, please email 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

cost: $20-$50 sliding scale of your choice. Can be paid at the door, or 
to the instructor via PayPal
optional 85-page textbook available at the class for $8

try and come for both days- the subject material is spread out over two 
evenings- although you're welcome to attend either date if for some reason 
you can't make it to both.
**

  Come learn to make quality alternative diesel fuel out of waste 
restaurant fryer oil or other oils. Biodiesel burns cleanly, is a renewable 
fuel, and can be used in unmodified diesel or heating oil equipment- as 
100% biodiesel, or as a mixture with existing petroleum diesel. There is a 
successful biodiesel industry in the US and Europe, but the production 
process is simple enough that many hobbyists make 'homebrew' biodiesel in 
their back yards, using simple equipment.

  This class will cover every step of the 'homebrew' biodiesel 
production process, as well as several of the 'variations' on the basic 
techniques. Class will be hands-on, and we will concentrate on giving 
students a comprehensive understanding of the chemistry and 'engineering' 
of biodiesel systems.

  The class will cover both lab-scale and full-size, hands-on biodiesel 
experiments, and we will demonstrate making a full-size batch of homebrew 
biodiesel and washing it.

  We will cover quality control and quality testing, bubblewashing and 
mistwashing, acid-base two-stage biodiesel, ethanol biodiesel, and much 
more. there will be a short equipment discussion.

   I recommend reading the www.journeytoforever.org 
and  www.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel online biodiesel course first. We won't 
be covering 'straight vegetable oil conversions' in great detail but can 
touch on this topic as well, depending on class interest.

  Wear closed toe shoes and long pants/long sleeve shirts, bring safety 
glasses if you have them, and bring something to take notes with.


Other online resources for the class:
*

www.utahbiodiesel.org local biodiesel co-op/educational organization

www.LocalB100.com instructor's homepage

www.veggieavenger.com/mediaequipment discussion/photo forum

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieselbasics  discussion forum

www.journeytoforever.org online homebrew tutorial and biofuels library

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc  discussion forum

www.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel commercial biodiesel research, excellent 
online course

  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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RE: [biofuel] Love Those one inch Clear Water Pumps

2004-08-23 Thread Teoman Naskali


That is a good idea but when using wvo, you might find that it
solidifies in the pump. 

A better idea would be to make the level of the pump adjustable. Lift it
to a higher level once it starts going (don't get electrocuted) You
could always do it after but then one would probably end up forgetting.
:)

Teoman

-Original Message-
From: bioveging [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 22 August 2004 15:24
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [biofuel] Love Those one inch Clear Water Pumps

Hi all;

Something happened, somewhat by accident (comes with being 
forgetful) that resolves the problem of the non-self priming Clear 
Water Pump that many of us are using.
As has been mentioned numerous, times they kinda suck, or actually 
don't very well :), but that problem is now solved. How? God's own 
gravity. Instead of having the pump suck from a pail or bucket or 
whatever below it's position one needs to only gravity feed the WVO 
into the pump and no priming is necesssary.
I do not know if this will work with cold WVO, but it does for sure 
work with pre-heated WVO, which I discoverd completely by accident 
having forgotten to prime it when I was ready to load the reactor 
after having heated my WVO to a little over 55C. As I opened the 
valve on my pre-heat tank (38 liter capapcity)and the intake valve 
to the pump I noticed that the sight tube registered oil in the 
lines, so I simply flipped on the switch to the pump and voila! 
pumped away like it is supposed to, so move those pails/tanks/drums 
ect... above the level of the pump and never have to prime again.

Have a nice day.

L.
PS: I now have 40 liters in the wash tank and another 40 in the 
reactor settling for me this PM once I quality test the later.





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[biofuel] Bolivia?

2004-08-23 Thread Jose Luis Hernandez Quisbert


Hi fellows:
Can some body explain to me what has to do Bolivia with Kerry?

Thanks

Jose




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[biofuel] Re: Need help on setup of processor