Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-18 Thread Joe Street
Hey Mike;

Ok I don't get this.  I've seen this kind of comment a few times before 
and I don't see the logic in it.  It takes me all of what 5 maybe 10 
minutes to do a titration.  Isn't it more fuss and work to do bracket 
test batches than just to run a titration? 

Joe


Mike Weaver wrote:

snip


I'm just lazy and go with what is easy - I don't even titrate - just run 
a few bracket batches.  So far so good...

  



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Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-18 Thread Mike Weaver
Nah, the oil's always the same - it never changes - there's very litle 
range.  When I get it I usually let it settle,
then do a quick 3 batches with 1 liter shakes in a mason jar ( I know- I 
release the pressure).  The batches are probably pointless also.

If I didn't have such steady oil I'd titrate more - I even have a Hanna 
PH meter.

I'm not recommending it - it's just what I've wound up with.

Just find I don't need to titrate for now...

Joe Street wrote:

Hey Mike;

Ok I don't get this.  I've seen this kind of comment a few times before 
and I don't see the logic in it.  It takes me all of what 5 maybe 10 
minutes to do a titration.  Isn't it more fuss and work to do bracket 
test batches than just to run a titration? 

Joe


Mike Weaver wrote:

snip

  

I'm just lazy and go with what is easy - I don't even titrate - just run 
a few bracket batches.  So far so good...

 





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Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-16 Thread Mike Weaver
I'd second that - no offense to any of the titrating gurus on the list, 
nor to Aleks, but what works for me if to get oil from
the same Chinese restaurant EVERY time, and use the old tried and true.  
I could never get the FoolProof method to work, but
it was early in my BD tenure that I tried it, and the oil was iffy, as 
was my understanding of the whole process.  I understand a lot people 
use it and like it.

I'm just lazy and go with what is easy - I don't even titrate - just run 
a few bracket batches.  So far so good...

personally, I'd expend more effort getting good oil than learning to 
deal with bad oil...

YMMV

-Mike


JJJN wrote:

Tom,
I did actually get about a 1/4cup of Glycerin from the method. Now that 
said i don't know if it was actually Glycerin or perhaps some FFA's or 
just plain black stuff that settled out in the acid phase.  This is 
where I am just making the assumption that this is in fact Glycerin.

One thing that I have found is there are three types of cooking oil out 
there.

1) good and clean where you can use any method and get a good yield.
2) As Bob Stated below, but I would like to say that at some point there 
is a diminishing return when the oil gets to bad.
3) Oil that is so bad that no matter what you do, you will not like the 
results. This oil is better off going to the Large scale producer that 
converts the oil to all FFA before conversion as the stuff I worked with 
was just a mess.

So if the oil is Black leave it at the shack.

Jim

Thomas Kelly wrote:

  

Bob,
Thanks for your response.
I have a source of WVO that titrates at 5 or more when I use .1% KOH. 
It sounds like a candidate for the Foolproof Method. I hope to heat my 
house/water and run my car on BD. I can use all the WVO my little town 
produces.
Higher yield, no soap produced   ..   somewhere over the rainbow, 
huh?

Picture #7 at JTF The Foolproof way to make Biodiesel  by Aleks Kac 
Free Fatty Acid to Ester Conversion shows First-stage glycerine. I was 
curious as to where the glycerine would come from if the acid stage only 
converted fatty acids.

I have just ordered 97% sulfuric acid.
Thanks for the tips.
  Tom
- Original Message - 
From: bob allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method


 



Howdy Tom,

Thomas Kelly wrote:
   

  

Hello All,
I've had success making quality BD using the single stage base 
method.
   I've become curious about the Foolproof Method (two stage Acid/Base)
for a number of reasons. I've read JTF a few times and have browsed the
archives.
Could somebody experienced with the method help with a few 
questions?

Part I   True or False
The foolproof method will:
1. Increase yield.
 



for feedstock withs high titration's, yes. I use the two-step
procedure if a titration with 1% KOH uses over about 5 ml.

   

  

2. Produce little or no soap in the glycerine cocktail
3. Produce little or no soap to be washed out of the BD
 



I don't see much difference in soap production, the main difference is
in reduced amt of base required, hence lower costs.

   

  

Part IIFree Response
Why does glycerine drop out after the first (acid) stage?
 



I have never seen it happen.


   

  

As I understand it this stage involves the esterification of FFAs. There
is no transesterification of glycerides.
 



acid catalyzed esterification of FFA's occurs much more rapidly than
acid catalyzed transesterification.

   

  

Part III   Just wondering:
1. Aleks Kac only mentions NaOH. I assume that I can use KOH instead. 
Yes?

 



yes

   

  

2. Was there any resolution to the discussion re: concentration of H2SO4
that is required? 98% preferred, 95% will work, 93% ? Has anyone
succeeded with conc. as low as 90%?
 



I only use 98% If you use lower concentrations you are introducing
more water, the last thing you want in the reaction pot.


In my procedure, I get it hotter (about 150 F) run it longer (a couple
of hours minimum), don't see any glycerin at this stage even after
waiting overnight. For the base stage I use the calculated amt of KOH
plus enough to neutralize the sulfuric acid. and still have soap to
deal with.







-- 
--
Bob Allen,http://ozarker.org/bob
--
-
The modern conservative is engaged in one of Man's oldest exercises
in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral
justification for selfishness  JKG
 


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[Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-15 Thread Thomas Kelly



Hello All,
 I've had success making 
quality BD using the single stage base method. 
 I've become curious about the 
Foolproof Method (two stage Acid/Base) for a number of reasons. I've read JTF a 
few times and have browsed the archives.
 Could somebody experienced 
with the method help with a few questions?

Part I True or 
False
The foolproof method will:
1. Increase yield.
2. Produce little or no soap in the glycerine 
cocktail
3. Produce little or no soap to be washed out of 
the BD

Part II Free 
Response
Why does glycerine drop out after the first (acid) 
stage?
As I understand it this stage involves the 
esterification of FFAs. There is no transesterification of 
glycerides.

Part III Just wondering:
1. Aleks Kac only mentions NaOH. I assume that I 
can use KOH instead. Yes?

2. Was there any resolution to the discussion re: 
concentration of H2SO4 that is required? 98% preferred, 95% will work, 93% ? 
Has anyone succeeded with conc. as low as 90%?

 
Thanks in advance,
 
Tom
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Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-15 Thread bob allen
Howdy Tom,

Thomas Kelly wrote:
 Hello All,
  I've had success making quality BD using the single stage base method.
 I've become curious about the Foolproof Method (two stage Acid/Base) 
 for a number of reasons. I've read JTF a few times and have browsed the 
 archives.
  Could somebody experienced with the method help with a few questions?
  
 Part I   True or False
 The foolproof method will:
 1. Increase yield.

for feedstock withs high titration's, yes. I use the two-step 
procedure if a titration with 1% KOH uses over about 5 ml.

 2. Produce little or no soap in the glycerine cocktail
 3. Produce little or no soap to be washed out of the BD

I don't see much difference in soap production, the main difference is 
in reduced amt of base required, hence lower costs.

  
 Part IIFree Response
 Why does glycerine drop out after the first (acid) stage?

I have never seen it happen.


 As I understand it this stage involves the esterification of FFAs. There 
 is no transesterification of glycerides.

acid catalyzed esterification of FFA's occurs much more rapidly than 
acid catalyzed transesterification.

  
 Part III   Just wondering:
 1. Aleks Kac only mentions NaOH. I assume that I can use KOH instead. Yes?
  
yes

 2. Was there any resolution to the discussion re: concentration of H2SO4 
 that is required? 98% preferred, 95% will work, 93% ? Has anyone 
 succeeded with conc. as low as 90%?

I only use 98% If you use lower concentrations you are introducing 
more water, the last thing you want in the reaction pot.


In my procedure, I get it hotter (about 150 F) run it longer (a couple 
of hours minimum), don't see any glycerin at this stage even after 
waiting overnight. For the base stage I use the calculated amt of KOH 
plus enough to neutralize the sulfuric acid. and still have soap to 
deal with.







-- 
--
Bob Allen,http://ozarker.org/bob
--
-
The modern conservative is engaged in one of Man's oldest exercises
in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral
justification for selfishness  JKG
 


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Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-15 Thread Thomas Kelly
Bob,
 Thanks for your response.
 I have a source of WVO that titrates at 5 or more when I use .1% KOH. 
It sounds like a candidate for the Foolproof Method. I hope to heat my 
house/water and run my car on BD. I can use all the WVO my little town 
produces.
 Higher yield, no soap produced   ..   somewhere over the rainbow, 
huh?

 Picture #7 at JTF The Foolproof way to make Biodiesel  by Aleks Kac 
Free Fatty Acid to Ester Conversion shows First-stage glycerine. I was 
curious as to where the glycerine would come from if the acid stage only 
converted fatty acids.

 I have just ordered 97% sulfuric acid.
 Thanks for the tips.
   Tom
- Original Message - 
From: bob allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method


 Howdy Tom,

 Thomas Kelly wrote:
 Hello All,
  I've had success making quality BD using the single stage base 
 method.
 I've become curious about the Foolproof Method (two stage Acid/Base)
 for a number of reasons. I've read JTF a few times and have browsed the
 archives.
  Could somebody experienced with the method help with a few 
 questions?

 Part I   True or False
 The foolproof method will:
 1. Increase yield.

 for feedstock withs high titration's, yes. I use the two-step
 procedure if a titration with 1% KOH uses over about 5 ml.

 2. Produce little or no soap in the glycerine cocktail
 3. Produce little or no soap to be washed out of the BD

 I don't see much difference in soap production, the main difference is
 in reduced amt of base required, hence lower costs.


 Part IIFree Response
 Why does glycerine drop out after the first (acid) stage?

 I have never seen it happen.


 As I understand it this stage involves the esterification of FFAs. There
 is no transesterification of glycerides.

 acid catalyzed esterification of FFA's occurs much more rapidly than
 acid catalyzed transesterification.


 Part III   Just wondering:
 1. Aleks Kac only mentions NaOH. I assume that I can use KOH instead. 
 Yes?

 yes

 2. Was there any resolution to the discussion re: concentration of H2SO4
 that is required? 98% preferred, 95% will work, 93% ? Has anyone
 succeeded with conc. as low as 90%?

 I only use 98% If you use lower concentrations you are introducing
 more water, the last thing you want in the reaction pot.


 In my procedure, I get it hotter (about 150 F) run it longer (a couple
 of hours minimum), don't see any glycerin at this stage even after
 waiting overnight. For the base stage I use the calculated amt of KOH
 plus enough to neutralize the sulfuric acid. and still have soap to
 deal with.







 -- 
 --
 Bob Allen,http://ozarker.org/bob
 --
 -
 The modern conservative is engaged in one of Man's oldest exercises
 in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral
 justification for selfishness  JKG
  


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 messages):
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Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method

2006-09-15 Thread JJJN
Tom,
I did actually get about a 1/4cup of Glycerin from the method. Now that 
said i don't know if it was actually Glycerin or perhaps some FFA's or 
just plain black stuff that settled out in the acid phase.  This is 
where I am just making the assumption that this is in fact Glycerin.

One thing that I have found is there are three types of cooking oil out 
there.

1) good and clean where you can use any method and get a good yield.
2) As Bob Stated below, but I would like to say that at some point there 
is a diminishing return when the oil gets to bad.
3) Oil that is so bad that no matter what you do, you will not like the 
results. This oil is better off going to the Large scale producer that 
converts the oil to all FFA before conversion as the stuff I worked with 
was just a mess.

So if the oil is Black leave it at the shack.

Jim

Thomas Kelly wrote:

Bob,
 Thanks for your response.
 I have a source of WVO that titrates at 5 or more when I use .1% KOH. 
It sounds like a candidate for the Foolproof Method. I hope to heat my 
house/water and run my car on BD. I can use all the WVO my little town 
produces.
 Higher yield, no soap produced   ..   somewhere over the rainbow, 
huh?

 Picture #7 at JTF The Foolproof way to make Biodiesel  by Aleks Kac 
Free Fatty Acid to Ester Conversion shows First-stage glycerine. I was 
curious as to where the glycerine would come from if the acid stage only 
converted fatty acids.

 I have just ordered 97% sulfuric acid.
 Thanks for the tips.
   Tom
- Original Message - 
From: bob allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Foolproof Method


  

Howdy Tom,

Thomas Kelly wrote:


Hello All,
 I've had success making quality BD using the single stage base 
method.
I've become curious about the Foolproof Method (two stage Acid/Base)
for a number of reasons. I've read JTF a few times and have browsed the
archives.
 Could somebody experienced with the method help with a few 
questions?

Part I   True or False
The foolproof method will:
1. Increase yield.
  

for feedstock withs high titration's, yes. I use the two-step
procedure if a titration with 1% KOH uses over about 5 ml.



2. Produce little or no soap in the glycerine cocktail
3. Produce little or no soap to be washed out of the BD
  

I don't see much difference in soap production, the main difference is
in reduced amt of base required, hence lower costs.



Part IIFree Response
Why does glycerine drop out after the first (acid) stage?
  

I have never seen it happen.




As I understand it this stage involves the esterification of FFAs. There
is no transesterification of glycerides.
  

acid catalyzed esterification of FFA's occurs much more rapidly than
acid catalyzed transesterification.



Part III   Just wondering:
1. Aleks Kac only mentions NaOH. I assume that I can use KOH instead. 
Yes?

  

yes



2. Was there any resolution to the discussion re: concentration of H2SO4
that is required? 98% preferred, 95% will work, 93% ? Has anyone
succeeded with conc. as low as 90%?
  

I only use 98% If you use lower concentrations you are introducing
more water, the last thing you want in the reaction pot.


In my procedure, I get it hotter (about 150 F) run it longer (a couple
of hours minimum), don't see any glycerin at this stage even after
waiting overnight. For the base stage I use the calculated amt of KOH
plus enough to neutralize the sulfuric acid. and still have soap to
deal with.







-- 
--
Bob Allen,http://ozarker.org/bob
--
-
The modern conservative is engaged in one of Man's oldest exercises
in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral
justification for selfishness  JKG
 


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Re: [Biofuel] FOOLPROOF METHOD

2005-06-14 Thread Keith Addison

Hello Roy


Keith:

Things arn't as bad as you see them with me... OR ... maybe ther are 
worse than I know.


First ... I do know how to SWIRL lye in water .. the question 
involved (as I found out) the soda ash that was setteling on the 
bottom. Nothing in Journeytoforever or anywhere else (that I ever 
found) indicated that this was even a possibility.


I've never seen such a thing, nor heard of it, other than from you.

It seems to me that this should be stated as I think most people 
would buy their Lye from some retail store rather than a chemical 
supply house.


Probably many do, and so have we in the past, yet in six years we've 
not heard of that happening. And we've used stale lye in the past. It 
always ended up clear.


But it's not for me to tell you how to present your stuff. As far as 
experience .. you are right ... I don't have much ... but I ask you, 
how much experience would I need to DISCOVER that the lye/water had 
soda ash setteling? I'm no chemist and have stated that. Without 
this forum I feel I would never know. I don't think my experience 
has anything to do with this question unless you consider experience 
asking this forum.


Perhaps not with that question.

Second  The titration level of the oil in question is 11. 11 gm 
Lye per liter.


Does that include the basic 3.5gm?

Yes ... I knew this .. I tested it three times and got the same 
answer each time.


Okay, good - too many people want to jump into complex methods before 
they've learnt to crawl and too often the reason is that they want to 
skip learning titration. Not wise! Titration's basic, foundation 
stuff. I'm glad it doesn't include you. By the way, they ALL say they 
followed the process to the letter... until you start to probe a bit.


This is what drove me to the FOOLPROOF method. I read this method 
and after reading it I felt I could follow the process to the letter 
and I did so. The process as stated is simple but I guess there's 
more to this than stated. How would I know?


Well, sorry, by reading it properly. As I said below:


NOTE: The two-stage biodiesel processes are advanced methods, not
for novices -- learn the basics thoroughly first. The single-stage
base method is the place to start. Start here.

Not for novices:
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make2.html#whystart


Yea verily.


I also read that any oil with a titraton level above above 5 is CRAP


A bit more than that maybe, 6.5ml is usually doable enough, if you 
can't find anything better. Even at 5, you have to be much more 
precise and meticulous than at say 3.5.


and here I sit with a titration level of 11. This is what drove me 
to the foolproff process. This info came from Biodiesel Homebrew 
Guide.


Caveat emptor, IMNSHO. I don't answer for anything it might say in 
the Biodiesel Homebrew Guide, nor in Tickell's book either.


As to the oil I am able to get, you are right I don't know how to 
judge oil at all other than through titration. I haven't read 
anything about telling any other way.


Nor will you, I don't think, or not anything very useful. As with so 
much else, you have to get a feel for it, a sense of it, it doesn't 
come from books, it comes from the experience of handling it over 
time. All skills come that way, you have to develop them, it takes 
time and practice.


I'm not trying to make it sound difficult, but I do resist attempts 
to make it seem simpler than it is. That sort of advice really 
doesn't pay off in the longer run, which is surely what we're all 
interested in.


I read someone, I forget quite who offhand, saying that learning to 
make biodiesel's about as difficult as learning to brew your own beer 
or learning gardening. I've never brewed beer and I'm sure there's 
much more to learn in a garden, but perhaps it's a fairly apt 
comparison. You don't learn it overnight anyway.


As far as me not seeing the basic process well I did do the process 
on NEW oil so I would have an idea of what to look for.


But how many times? Enough to get the sense and experience they talk 
of in the Not for novices bit above?


Roy, whether that oil titrates at 11.1g/l or 7.6g/l you probably 
haven't got much hope of processing it. Why make life impossible for 
yourself? But when you're a seasoned biodieseler in a year's time or 
something you should be able to process it by the single-stage base 
method, and reliably, though you'd only get about 75% production. I'm 
not recommending it, acid-base is the way to go, but you should be 
able to do it, and that's the level of skill you need to 
trouble-shoot an acid-base process that goes wrong, or any process 
that goes wrong.


In fact you'd have to tinker with the acid-base process anyway with 
11.1g/l oil. Not difficult. But what you'd almost certainly do is 
find a better source of oil, which is what I recommend. I'd suggest 
concentrating on two directions: find better oil, work on improving 
your skills with the single-stage process. In a few months' 

[Biofuel] FOOLPROOF METHOD

2005-06-12 Thread ROY Washbish

Hi All
I have tried the foolproof method twice now and have had bad results.
I'm trying this method becauseI know I have CRUDDY oil. This has been the only oil I have been able to get so far (from several sources) so I'm trying to get it to work.
It's SOYBEAN OIL from Chinese restaurants. It's really dark in color (loaded with SOY SAUCE I guess).
I follow the direction in Journey to forever (The FOOLPROOF way to make biodiesel http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_aleksnew.html)to the letter. Whendoing the Second Stage I get NO glycerin separation. I added hours more mixing and checking and still got NO separation. I let the oil set overnight and still no separation.
I used a Paing Mixer in a drill in the first stage and I used a Pump in the second stage. No splashing or high speed mixing or pumping. Good temp control during the whole process.
In the first batch after I had no separation I added more Methoxide and when I let it stand and cool it Gelled. No separation in the gel.
Anyone have any ideas??
My BEST to all of you.
ROY Washbish

















Roy Washbish Certified Health Coach A HOME BUSINESS  PRODUCTS THAT WORKPRODUCTS  BUSINESSTRIVITA.COM/11393920
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Re: [Biofuel] FOOLPROOF METHOD

2005-06-12 Thread Keith Addison

Hello Roy

You said once before I also am looking to go BIO the simplest way.

You're making a mistake if you think the acid-base method is the 
simplest way. Not for novices it says at the top of that page, and 
for good reason:


NOTE: The two-stage biodiesel processes are advanced methods, not 
for novices -- learn the basics thoroughly first. The single-stage 
base method is the place to start. Start here.


Not for novices:
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make2.html#whystart

Here being here:
Where do I start?
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html#start

You haven't learnt any of the basics yet - not even how to mix lye 
with methanol, the last we heard, right?


I don't want to be discouraging, but why ignore the advice of list 
members who've gone before you?



... so what am I missing?

One answer:

If everything goes exactly right, nothing. The problem is when 
something doesn't, and you have NO IDEA what's going on 'cuz you've 
never seen all the possible quirks of even the basic process.


...What's all this white stuff?... Nothing seems to be happening... 
There's this weird layer, and I'm wondering if it's biodiesel... etc 
etc.


And so on - from Not for novices.

The first question we'd ask would be, what's the titration level of 
the oil? Do you know?


Learn the basics, go back to the beginning, Where do I start?

There'll certainly be better oil available than the stuff you're 
trying to cut your teeth on, but you don't know how to recognise 
better oil yet, it's not always the way it might look at first 
appearance.


Best wishes

Keith



Hi All
I have tried the foolproof method twice now and have had bad results.
I'm trying this method because I know I have CRUDDY oil. This has 
been the only oil I have been able to get so far (from several 
sources) so I'm trying to get it to work.
It's SOYBEAN OIL from Chinese restaurants. It's really dark in color 
(loaded with SOY SAUCE I guess).
I follow the direction in Journey to forever (The FOOLPROOF way to 
make biodiesel http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_aleksnew.html 
)to the letter. When doing the Second Stage I get NO glycerin 
separation. I added hours more mixing and checking and still got NO 
separation. I let the oil set overnight and still no separation.
I used a Paing Mixer in a drill in the first stage and I used a Pump 
in the second stage. No splashing or high speed mixing or pumping. 
Good temp control during the whole process.
In the first batch after I had no separation I added more Methoxide 
and when I let it stand and cool it Gelled. No separation in the gel.

Anyone have any ideas??
My BEST to all of you.
ROY Washbish

Roy Washbish



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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-14 Thread Appal Energy

x-charset ISO-8859-1Pieter,

It always tickles me (that's a U.S. biodiesel joke) that so many non-wash
advocates always declare without any problems. Well, of course there are
never any problems until their are problems!

People of sedentary lifestyle preparing to undergo their first quadruple
bypass never had any problems until they had problems either.

105,000 miles is a nice chunk of mileage. But you are aware that a diesel
should last 300 - 500,000 miles if well taken care of? Do you expect to get
that far on unwashed fuel? Will you ever know how much farther you could
have gone when problems occur had the fuel been washed?

Do you really think that running residual soap, glycerin and caustic are
going to help your engine performance and/or longevity? Certainly the
presence of residual alcohol removes the safety factor of biodiesel's higher
flash point.

Oh well..., everyone has the right to make their own choices.

As for acid/base and its benefits? Sounds as if you're using a rather
consistant and un-abused oil. Not everyone is so lucky. But you could get a
higher yield even with your oil if you went acid/base. The questions are
whether the increased yield outweighs the labor, time and waste factor for
you and whether or not you are of a mindset to go for expediency rather than
maximum yields and environmental benefits.

Some people gravitate to Hummers. Some people gravitate to Jettas.

Todd Swearingen

- Original Message - 
From: Pieter Koole [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 Hi all,
 Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making BD
 now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without
titration,
 just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used vegatable
 oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is the
 right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never whashed
the
 BD.
 I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
 What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
 I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool
proof
 method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.


 Met vriendelijke groeten,
 Pieter Koole
 Netherlands.

 The information contained in this message (including attachments) is
 confidential, and is intended for the addressee(s)
 only.  If you have received this message in error please delete it and
 notify the originator immediately.  The unauthorized use, disclosure,
 copying or alteration of this message is strictly forbidden. We will not
be
 liable for direct, special, indirect or
 consequential damages arising from alteration of the contents of this
 message by a third party or in case of electronic communications as a
result
 of any virus being passed on.


 - Original Message -
 From: Scott Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:44 PM
 Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method


  I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
  I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
  them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
  the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?
 
  Thanks,
  Scott
 
 
 
 
  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
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  http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel
 
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-14 Thread Appal Energy

Pieter,

Acid can be had much cheaper in 5 - 55 gallon drums. I've got those prices
sitting on a page somewhere in a two foot stack on the far corner of the
desk. Give me eight hours of shuteye and I can probably uncover a fairly
recent per pound price.

Todd Swearingen


- Original Message - 
From: Pieter Koole [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 Hi Todd,
 What prices are you mentioning ??
 In Holland I pay  0,80 per liter acid, which can be sulfuric acid (98%)
or
 posphoric acid (80%).
 I think you should try to find an industrie where they use a lot of this
 stuf and buy some from them.

 Met vriendelijke groeten,
 Pieter Koole
 Netherlands

 The information contained in this message (including attachments) is
 confidential, and is intended for the addressee(s)
 only.  If you have received this message in error please delete it and
 notify the originator immediately.  The unauthorized use, disclosure,
 copying or alteration of this message is strictly forbidden. We will not
be
 liable for direct, special, indirect or
 consequential damages arising from alteration of the contents of this
 message by a third party or in case of electronic communications as a
result
 of any virus being passed on.


 - Original Message -
 From: Appal Energy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 5:32 AM
 Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


  Try a warehouse for commercial/municipal pool/water treatment. You
should
 be
  able to get either for less than $20 a gallon, more like $12 for
sulfuric
  and $18 for phosphoric.
 
  If all else fails, contact Aqua Science in Columbus, Ohio, 614-252-5000
 and
  ask if they know of any industrial supply house(s) in the
  Philadelphia-Baltimore area. There have to be several.
 
  Todd Swearingen
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Scott Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 5:44 PM
  Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method
 
 
   I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
   I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
   them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
   the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?
  
   Thanks,
   Scott
  
  
  
  
   Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
   http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
  
   Biofuels list archives:
   http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel
  
   Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address.
   To unsubscribe, send an email to:
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  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
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  http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel
 
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  To unsubscribe, send an email to:
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-14 Thread Keith Addison

x-charset ISO-8859-1Dag Pieter

Maar...

Hi all,
Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making BD
now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without titration,
just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used vegatable
oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is the
right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never whashed the
BD.
I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool proof
method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.

But you HAVE had your problems, haven't you? If not with your 
Citroen, yet. You couldn't manage to separate the glycerine and FFA 
in your by-product, despite a lot of help and advice here, and that's 
dead easy - as I said at the time, it indicated something else was 
wrong. Then you described your process (using less lye than now - 
only the basic amount for virgin oil, though you use WVO):

I use 3.5 grams of lye and 150 ml methanol in the process and do not
titrate.
The mixing takes two or three hours, just to make sure that the whole
reaction has taken place.
Temperature is 15ˆžC or a bit more.
The oil I use is WVO ( soya ), which has been used for one or two days to
bake fish in.
After processing, I let it stand for a week or more. I don't wash the BD (
not that I recommend this way of working, but in my case it works OK ).
The pH of the BD is just over 7.

Plus that you don't separate the by-product, just leave it there and 
draw biodiesel off the top, and that you measure pH with litmus 
paper, not the best way.

I commented: Not enough lye for WVO and 25ml excess methanol (12.5% 
stoich for soy) is unlikely to be enough, especially at such low 
temps for only three hours.

I suggested you do a wash test:

 Have you ever tried washing your biodiesel? I'd be interested to know
 what happens. Will you try this? Put 150 ml of your biodiesel in a
 half-litre glass jar, add 150 ml of water (preferably distilled water
 if you have it, or just tap water if not), screw the lid on tight,
 and shake it up and down violently for 10 seconds or more. Tell us
 what happens next.

This is what happened next - you wrote:

 Surprised about what happened : 3 layers. The top layer must be BD 
( same color as it always is ), and than a rather thick layer of 
white flaky stuf, and a layer of troubled water. pH of the BD layer 
is still just over 7 (measured with litmus paper ).

I wasn't surprised - well, a little surprised that it separated at 
all, and I'd guess it only did that because you let it settle for so 
long.  ... you now have a visible measure of the extent to which the 
whole reaction has taken place, or perhaps hasn't. That white layer 
should be at most very thin, hardly more than a slick.

I suggested various things you could try next to improve your 
process/product, but didn't try to push you into titration and using 
the right amounts of lye and methanol, heating, and washing: Other 
people using different oils and in different circumstances might not 
get it to work so well, but that's not your problem, and you didn't 
recommend it.

But you didn't respond, and now it seems you are recommending it. And 
questioning why anyone would prefer to use the Foolproof acid-base 
process. The acid-base process is probably the best method available 
because it gives consistently high-quality results, even with 
poor-quality oils, with lower amounts of inputs and producing less 
by-products.

But from the above I can only assume that you aren't very interested 
in the best quality but only in poor-quality fuel, poorly made, as 
long as it doesn't seem to damage your engine. Yet.

You didn't succeed when you tried the Foolproof method. It's not for 
novices, we and others always recommend starting at the beginning and 
learning the basics first, but, rather tellingly, you don't know many 
of the basics, so I'm not surprised you failed. But please don't try 
to put opther people off.

Best

Keith



Met vriendelijke groeten,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands.


- Original Message -
From: Scott Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:44 PM
Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method


  I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
  I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
  them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
  the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?
 
  Thanks,
  Scott



 Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~--
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Shipped direct from the grower with a 7 day freshness guarantee and prices so 
low you save 30-55% off retail!
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-14 Thread Pieter Koole

x-charset ISO-8859-1I am very sorry if I suggested to put other people off 
the methods you
recommend.
Perhaps it is allso caused by not using the right terms ( I am not from an
English speaking country ).
Again, very sorry and as said in another mail, I will try it again and do it
exactly as you advise.
Keep you informed.

Met vriendelijke groeten,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands.

The information contained in this message (including attachments) is
confidential, and is intended for the addressee(s)
only.  If you have received this message in error please delete it and
notify the originator immediately.  The unauthorized use, disclosure,
copying or alteration of this message is strictly forbidden. We will not be
liable for direct, special, indirect or
consequential damages arising from alteration of the contents of this
message by a third party or in case of electronic communications as a result
of any virus being passed on.


- Original Message -
From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 Dag Pieter

 Maar...

 Hi all,
 Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making
BD
 now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without
titration,
 just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used vegatable
 oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is the
 right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never whashed
the
 BD.
 I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
 What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
 I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool
proof
 method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.

 But you HAVE had your problems, haven't you? If not with your
 Citroen, yet. You couldn't manage to separate the glycerine and FFA
 in your by-product, despite a lot of help and advice here, and that's
 dead easy - as I said at the time, it indicated something else was
 wrong. Then you described your process (using less lye than now -
 only the basic amount for virgin oil, though you use WVO):

 I use 3.5 grams of lye and 150 ml methanol in the process and do not
 titrate.
 The mixing takes two or three hours, just to make sure that the whole
 reaction has taken place.
 Temperature is 15ˆžC or a bit more.
 The oil I use is WVO ( soya ), which has been used for one or two days to
 bake fish in.
 After processing, I let it stand for a week or more. I don't wash the BD
(
 not that I recommend this way of working, but in my case it works OK ).
 The pH of the BD is just over 7.

 Plus that you don't separate the by-product, just leave it there and
 draw biodiesel off the top, and that you measure pH with litmus
 paper, not the best way.

 I commented: Not enough lye for WVO and 25ml excess methanol (12.5%
 stoich for soy) is unlikely to be enough, especially at such low
 temps for only three hours.

 I suggested you do a wash test:

  Have you ever tried washing your biodiesel? I'd be interested to know
  what happens. Will you try this? Put 150 ml of your biodiesel in a
  half-litre glass jar, add 150 ml of water (preferably distilled water
  if you have it, or just tap water if not), screw the lid on tight,
  and shake it up and down violently for 10 seconds or more. Tell us
  what happens next.

 This is what happened next - you wrote:

  Surprised about what happened : 3 layers. The top layer must be BD
 ( same color as it always is ), and than a rather thick layer of
 white flaky stuf, and a layer of troubled water. pH of the BD layer
 is still just over 7 (measured with litmus paper ).

 I wasn't surprised - well, a little surprised that it separated at
 all, and I'd guess it only did that because you let it settle for so
 long.  ... you now have a visible measure of the extent to which the
 whole reaction has taken place, or perhaps hasn't. That white layer
 should be at most very thin, hardly more than a slick.

 I suggested various things you could try next to improve your
 process/product, but didn't try to push you into titration and using
 the right amounts of lye and methanol, heating, and washing: Other
 people using different oils and in different circumstances might not
 get it to work so well, but that's not your problem, and you didn't
 recommend it.

 But you didn't respond, and now it seems you are recommending it. And
 questioning why anyone would prefer to use the Foolproof acid-base
 process. The acid-base process is probably the best method available
 because it gives consistently high-quality results, even with
 poor-quality oils, with lower amounts of inputs and producing less
 by-products.

 But from the above I can only assume that you aren't very interested
 in the best quality but only in poor-quality fuel, poorly made, as
 long as it doesn't seem to damage your engine. Yet.

 You didn't succeed when you

Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-14 Thread Appal Energy

x-charset ISO-8859-1Pieter,

Yours' was a reasonable question. I don't think it put anyone off.

Why would anyone want to use a process that requires an extra stage? That is
presuming that the presently used process is yielding similar results.

That is the 64,000 dollar question. Six to twenty percent higher yield is a
pretty good reason. Less failed reactions, less chemical inputs, less need
to salvage batches. Less worry as to whether or not a batch is complete. All
are pretty good reasons as well.

Nothing is more disappointing (especially after having become familiar with
acid/base) to see one-third of your reactor filled with glycerin cocktail
after conducting a straight base reaction and then putting those contents
side by side with an acid/base reaction with the same oil and comparing the
amount of glycerin cocktail between the two.

It's not that there's more glycerin volume between the two, but soap - which
would be okay if soap is what you're after.

I would encourage anyone using WVO as a feedstock to work towards acid/base
and the other processes after the reaction, such as alcohol recovery, FFA
recovery (glycerol recovery) and waste water treatment.

All of these combined make for a complete process. Unfortunately, probably
90% of the home biodieselers stop with the reaction and pay no heed either
to increasing their yields or dealing with their co-products (waste
products).

Todd Swearingen

- Original Message - 
From: Pieter Koole [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 I am very sorry if I suggested to put other people off the methods you
 recommend.
 Perhaps it is allso caused by not using the right terms ( I am not from an
 English speaking country ).
 Again, very sorry and as said in another mail, I will try it again and do
it
 exactly as you advise.
 Keep you informed.

 Met vriendelijke groeten,
 Pieter Koole
 Netherlands.

 The information contained in this message (including attachments) is
 confidential, and is intended for the addressee(s)
 only.  If you have received this message in error please delete it and
 notify the originator immediately.  The unauthorized use, disclosure,
 copying or alteration of this message is strictly forbidden. We will not
be
 liable for direct, special, indirect or
 consequential damages arising from alteration of the contents of this
 message by a third party or in case of electronic communications as a
result
 of any virus being passed on.


 - Original Message -
 From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 8:26 AM
 Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


  Dag Pieter
 
  Maar...
 
  Hi all,
  Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making
 BD
  now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without
 titration,
  just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used
vegatable
  oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is
the
  right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never
whashed
 the
  BD.
  I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
  What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
  I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool
 proof
  method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.
 
  But you HAVE had your problems, haven't you? If not with your
  Citroen, yet. You couldn't manage to separate the glycerine and FFA
  in your by-product, despite a lot of help and advice here, and that's
  dead easy - as I said at the time, it indicated something else was
  wrong. Then you described your process (using less lye than now -
  only the basic amount for virgin oil, though you use WVO):
 
  I use 3.5 grams of lye and 150 ml methanol in the process and do not
  titrate.
  The mixing takes two or three hours, just to make sure that the whole
  reaction has taken place.
  Temperature is 15ˆžC or a bit more.
  The oil I use is WVO ( soya ), which has been used for one or two days
to
  bake fish in.
  After processing, I let it stand for a week or more. I don't wash the
BD
 (
  not that I recommend this way of working, but in my case it works OK ).
  The pH of the BD is just over 7.
 
  Plus that you don't separate the by-product, just leave it there and
  draw biodiesel off the top, and that you measure pH with litmus
  paper, not the best way.
 
  I commented: Not enough lye for WVO and 25ml excess methanol (12.5%
  stoich for soy) is unlikely to be enough, especially at such low
  temps for only three hours.
 
  I suggested you do a wash test:
 
   Have you ever tried washing your biodiesel? I'd be interested to know
   what happens. Will you try this? Put 150 ml of your biodiesel in a
   half-litre glass jar, add 150 ml of water (preferably distilled water
   if you have it, or just tap water if not), screw the lid

Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-13 Thread Appal Energy

x-charset ISO-8859-1Try a warehouse for commercial/municipal pool/water 
treatment. You should be
able to get either for less than $20 a gallon, more like $12 for sulfuric
and $18 for phosphoric.

If all else fails, contact Aqua Science in Columbus, Ohio, 614-252-5000 and
ask if they know of any industrial supply house(s) in the
Philadelphia-Baltimore area. There have to be several.

Todd Swearingen

- Original Message - 
From: Scott Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 5:44 PM
Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
 I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
 them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
 the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?

 Thanks,
 Scott




 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel

 Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address.
 To unsubscribe, send an email to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links









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Shipped direct from the grower with a 7 day freshness guarantee and prices so 
low you save 30-55% off retail!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/_iAw9B/xdlHAA/3jkFAA/FGYolB/TM
-~-

Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

Biofuels list archives:
http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel

Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address.
To unsubscribe, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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/x-charset


Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-13 Thread Pieter Koole

x-charset ISO-8859-1Hi all,
Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making BD
now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without titration,
just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used vegatable
oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is the
right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never whashed the
BD.
I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool proof
method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.


Met vriendelijke groeten,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands.

The information contained in this message (including attachments) is
confidential, and is intended for the addressee(s)
only.  If you have received this message in error please delete it and
notify the originator immediately.  The unauthorized use, disclosure,
copying or alteration of this message is strictly forbidden. We will not be
liable for direct, special, indirect or
consequential damages arising from alteration of the contents of this
message by a third party or in case of electronic communications as a result
of any virus being passed on.


- Original Message -
From: Scott Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:44 PM
Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
 I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
 them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
 the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?

 Thanks,
 Scott




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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2004-02-13 Thread Pieter Koole

Hi Todd,
What prices are you mentioning ??
In Holland I pay  0,80 per liter acid, which can be sulfuric acid (98%) or
posphoric acid (80%).
I think you should try to find an industrie where they use a lot of this
stuf and buy some from them.

Met vriendelijke groeten,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands

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- Original Message -
From: Appal Energy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 Try a warehouse for commercial/municipal pool/water treatment. You should
be
 able to get either for less than $20 a gallon, more like $12 for sulfuric
 and $18 for phosphoric.

 If all else fails, contact Aqua Science in Columbus, Ohio, 614-252-5000
and
 ask if they know of any industrial supply house(s) in the
 Philadelphia-Baltimore area. There have to be several.

 Todd Swearingen

 - Original Message -
 From: Scott Alexander [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 5:44 PM
 Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method


  I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
  I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
  them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
  the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?
 
  Thanks,
  Scott
 
 
 
 
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  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
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  http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel
 
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[biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread William Clark

Hey yall-

I am Bill Clark and new to the group as well as biodiesel. I am currently 
developing a Southeastern Center for Sustainable Communities for Audubon 
International. I am located in S.E. Alabama, U.S.A. I have many questions so I 
will pose them 1 at a time.

When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60 deg C 
for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My reason for 
asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat to that temp or 
more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE 1000L tanks recycled 
from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and have an aluminum pallet 
and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any negative effects on the oil?

I have been watching the messages for a couple of days and it seems a lively 
group. Have much enjoyed it.

Bill C.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread Neoteric Biofuels Inc.

Bill - sunlight will degrade  vegoils. Best to store in dark and use  as
soon as possible.


Edward Beggs, BES, MSc
http://www.biofuels.ca





on 6/10/02 2:22 PM, William Clark at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey yall-
 
 I am Bill Clark and new to the group as well as biodiesel. I am currently
 developing a Southeastern Center for Sustainable Communities for Audubon
 International. I am located in S.E. Alabama, U.S.A. I have many questions so I
 will pose them 1 at a time.
 
 When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60 deg C
 for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My reason for
 asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat to that temp
 or more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE 1000L tanks
 recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and have an aluminum
 pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any negative effects on
 the oil?
 
 I have been watching the messages for a couple of days and it seems a lively
 group. Have much enjoyed it.
 
 Bill C.
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/
 
 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
 To unsubscribe, send an email to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
 


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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread William Clark

Edward- Thanks for your reply. Still wondering about time a temp. It would
still be possible for me to heat with solar without exposing oil to
sunlight. For now, WVO will be used as collected.

Bill C.
- Original Message -
From: Neoteric Biofuels Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Biofuel-JTF biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 Bill - sunlight will degrade  vegoils. Best to store in dark and use  as
 soon as possible.


 Edward Beggs, BES, MSc
 http://www.biofuels.ca





 on 6/10/02 2:22 PM, William Clark at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Hey yall-
 
  I am Bill Clark and new to the group as well as biodiesel. I am
currently
  developing a Southeastern Center for Sustainable Communities for Audubon
  International. I am located in S.E. Alabama, U.S.A. I have many
questions so I
  will pose them 1 at a time.
 
  When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60
deg C
  for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My reason
for
  asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat to that
temp
  or more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE 1000L tanks
  recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and have an
aluminum
  pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any negative
effects on
  the oil?
 
  I have been watching the messages for a couple of days and it seems a
lively
  group. Have much enjoyed it.
 
  Bill C.
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
  Biofuels list archives:
  http://archive.nnytech.net/
 
  Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
  To unsubscribe, send an email to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
 



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 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/

 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread Greg and April


- Original Message -
From: William Clark 
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 15:22
Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method



 When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60
deg C for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My
reason for asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat
to that temp or more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE
1000L tanks recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and
have an aluminum pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any
negative effects on the oil?


Sunlight can affect veg oil, and HDPE if the HDPE is not made for being out
in the sunlight ( the UV can degrade both the plastic and the oil ).

Greg H.


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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread Christopher Witmer

All this is based on my reading rather than actual experience, but as 
long as the solar radiation is only being applied to the biodiesel as 
heat, the controlled use of that heat to rid WVO of water should present 
no problem. (Are you sure the time and temp you gave is correct? It 
sounds more like a method for pasteurization.)

Edward Beggs is correct that exposure to factors such as light and heat 
(and air) are not good for diesel-type fuels. If you are consuming as 
you produce, without prolonged storage, then you probably don't have 
much to worry about. Given your ambient temperatures and humidity, your 
biggest problem (if you encounter any) might be microbial activity, but 
if you use what you make reasonably quickly and have a good fuel 
filtration system, that shouldn't be reason to worry.

William Clark wrote:

 When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60 deg C 
 for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My reason for 
 asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat to that temp 
 or more using just slar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE 1000L tanks 
 recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and have an 
 aluminum pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any negative 
 effects on the oil?



 Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~--
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread William Clark

Christopher-  Still curious. Apart from UV degradation of plastic and oil,
would there be any problems associated with exceeding time and temp I
mentioned. I got these from Journey To Forever website under Foolproof
Method.

Bill C.
- Original Message -
From: Christopher Witmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 All this is based on my reading rather than actual experience, but as
 long as the solar radiation is only being applied to the biodiesel as
 heat, the controlled use of that heat to rid WVO of water should present
 no problem. (Are you sure the time and temp you gave is correct? It
 sounds more like a method for pasteurization.)

 Edward Beggs is correct that exposure to factors such as light and heat
 (and air) are not good for diesel-type fuels. If you are consuming as
 you produce, without prolonged storage, then you probably don't have
 much to worry about. Given your ambient temperatures and humidity, your
 biggest problem (if you encounter any) might be microbial activity, but
 if you use what you make reasonably quickly and have a good fuel
 filtration system, that shouldn't be reason to worry.

 William Clark wrote:

  When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60
deg C for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My
reason for asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat
to that temp or more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE
1000L tanks recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and
have an aluminum pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any
negative effects on the oil?




 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/

 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
 To unsubscribe, send an email to:
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread Neoteric Biofuels Inc.

You can use the sun to heat it for filtering, etc., but it is best to store,
before and after, in the dark and not store any longer than you need to  -
unless it's frozen under a snowdrift, that is.



Edward Beggs, BES, MSc
http://www.biofuels.ca





on 6/10/02 3:16 PM, William Clark at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Edward- Thanks for your reply. Still wondering about time a temp. It would
 still be possible for me to heat with solar without exposing oil to
 sunlight. For now, WVO will be used as collected.
 
 Bill C.
 - Original Message -
 From: Neoteric Biofuels Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Biofuel-JTF biofuel@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 4:28 PM
 Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method
 
 
 Bill - sunlight will degrade  vegoils. Best to store in dark and use  as
 soon as possible.
 
 
 Edward Beggs, BES, MSc
 http://www.biofuels.ca
 
 
 
 
 
 on 6/10/02 2:22 PM, William Clark at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Hey yall-
 
 I am Bill Clark and new to the group as well as biodiesel. I am
 currently
 developing a Southeastern Center for Sustainable Communities for Audubon
 International. I am located in S.E. Alabama, U.S.A. I have many
 questions so I
 will pose them 1 at a time.
 
 When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60
 deg C
 for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My reason
 for
 asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat to that
 temp
 or more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE 1000L tanks
 recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and have an
 aluminum
 pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any negative
 effects on
 the oil?
 
 I have been watching the messages for a couple of days and it seems a
 lively
 group. Have much enjoyed it.
 
 Bill C.
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/
 
 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
 To unsubscribe, send an email to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/
 
 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
 To unsubscribe, send an email to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
 
 
 
 
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 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/
 
 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
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Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread Christopher Witmer

Well, on paper at least you want to minimize exposure to heat prior to 
use. But I assume you are not planning to store the stuff for weeks or 
months in constant exposure to direct sun, and if the duration is short 
(say, a day or two) your vehicle may not notice any practical 
difference, even if a difference could be clearly detected analytically. 
You might try experimenting with small quantities, no more than a few 
gallons at a time, to see how time and temp affect your particular brew.

William Clark wrote:

 Christopher-  Still curious. Apart from UV degradation of plastic and oil,
 would there be any problems associated with exceeding time and temp I
 mentioned. I got these from Journey To Forever website under Foolproof
 Method.



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RE: [biofuel] Foolproof method

2002-06-10 Thread Hall, Edward C.

Gentlemen,
When you say use as soon as possible, are you referring to the WVO or the
biodiesel? I was under the impression that biodiesel will store for about a
year if kept in a cool, dark place.
Ed

-Original Message-
From: William Clark [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:16 PM
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


Edward- Thanks for your reply. Still wondering about time a temp. It would
still be possible for me to heat with solar without exposing oil to
sunlight. For now, WVO will be used as collected.

Bill C.
- Original Message -
From: Neoteric Biofuels Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Biofuel-JTF biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


 Bill - sunlight will degrade  vegoils. Best to store in dark and use  as
 soon as possible.


 Edward Beggs, BES, MSc
 http://www.biofuels.ca





 on 6/10/02 2:22 PM, William Clark at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Hey yall-
 
  I am Bill Clark and new to the group as well as biodiesel. I am
currently
  developing a Southeastern Center for Sustainable Communities for Audubon
  International. I am located in S.E. Alabama, U.S.A. I have many
questions so I
  will pose them 1 at a time.
 
  When settling out water from the WVO, one method suggests heating to 60
deg C
  for 15 minutes. Is this temperature a minimum, same for time? My reason
for
  asking is that we have much sunshine here. We could easily heat to that
temp
  or more using just solar. The tanks I intend to use are HDPE 1000L tanks
  recycled from a latex plant here in town. They are opaque and have an
aluminum
  pallet and frame already attached. Will sunlight have any negative
effects on
  the oil?
 
  I have been watching the messages for a couple of days and it seems a
lively
  group. Have much enjoyed it.
 
  Bill C.
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
 
  Biofuels list archives:
  http://archive.nnytech.net/
 
  Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
  To unsubscribe, send an email to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
 



 Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
 http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

 Biofuels list archives:
 http://archive.nnytech.net/

 Please do NOT send quot;unsubscribequot; messages to the list address.
 To unsubscribe, send an email to:
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