<x-charset ISO-8859-1>Dag Pieter

Maar...

>Hi all,
>Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making BD
>now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without titration,
>just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used vegatable
>oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is the
>right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never whashed the
>BD.
>I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
>What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
>I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool proof
>method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.

But you HAVE had your problems, haven't you? If not with your 
Citroen, yet. You couldn't manage to separate the glycerine and FFA 
in your by-product, despite a lot of help and advice here, and that's 
dead easy - as I said at the time, it indicated something else was 
wrong. Then you described your process (using less lye than now - 
only the basic amount for virgin oil, though you use WVO):

>I use 3.5 grams of lye and 150 ml methanol in the process and do not
>titrate.
>The mixing takes two or three hours, just to make sure that the whole
>reaction has taken place.
>Temperature is 15ˆžC or a bit more.
>The oil I use is WVO ( soya ), which has been used for one or two days to
>bake fish in.
>After processing, I let it stand for a week or more. I don't wash the BD (
>not that I recommend this way of working, but in my case it works OK ).
>The pH of the BD is just over 7.

Plus that you don't separate the by-product, just leave it there and 
draw biodiesel off the top, and that you measure pH with litmus 
paper, not the best way.

I commented: "Not enough lye for WVO and 25ml excess methanol (12.5% 
stoich for soy) is unlikely to be enough, especially at such low 
temps for only three hours."

I suggested you do a wash test:

> Have you ever tried washing your biodiesel? I'd be interested to know
> what happens. Will you try this? Put 150 ml of your biodiesel in a
> half-litre glass jar, add 150 ml of water (preferably distilled water
> if you have it, or just tap water if not), screw the lid on tight,
> and shake it up and down violently for 10 seconds or more. Tell us
> what happens next.

This is what happened next - you wrote:

> Surprised about what happened : 3 layers. The top layer must be BD 
>( same color as it always is ), and than a rather thick layer of 
>white flaky stuf, and a layer of troubled water. pH of the BD layer 
>is still just over 7 (measured with litmus paper ).

I wasn't surprised - well, a little surprised that it separated at 
all, and I'd guess it only did that because you let it settle for so 
long.  "... you now have a visible measure of the extent to which the 
whole reaction has taken place, or perhaps hasn't. That white layer 
should be at most very thin, hardly more than a slick."

I suggested various things you could try next to improve your 
process/product, but didn't try to push you into titration and using 
the right amounts of lye and methanol, heating, and washing: "Other 
people using different oils and in different circumstances might not 
get it to work so well, but that's not your problem, and you didn't 
recommend it."

But you didn't respond, and now it seems you are recommending it. And 
questioning why anyone would prefer to use the "Foolproof" acid-base 
process. The acid-base process is probably the best method available 
because it gives consistently high-quality results, even with 
poor-quality oils, with lower amounts of inputs and producing less 
by-products.

But from the above I can only assume that you aren't very interested 
in the best quality but only in poor-quality fuel, poorly made, as 
long as it doesn't seem to damage your engine. Yet.

You didn't succeed when you tried the Foolproof method. It's not for 
novices, we and others always recommend starting at the beginning and 
learning the basics first, but, rather tellingly, you don't know many 
of the basics, so I'm not surprised you failed. But please don't try 
to put opther people off.

Best

Keith



>Met vriendelijke groeten,
>Pieter Koole
>Netherlands.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scott Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:44 PM
>Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method
>
>
> > I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
> > I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
> > them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
> > the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Scott



------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Send the freshest Valentine's flowers with a FREE vase from only $29.99!
Shipped direct from the grower with a 7 day freshness guarantee and prices so 
low you save 30-55% off retail!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/_iAw9B/xdlHAA/3jkFAA/FGYolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->

Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html

Biofuels list archives:
http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel

Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address.
To unsubscribe, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     [EMAIL PROTECTED]

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 


</x-charset>

Reply via email to