Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Anthony G. Atkielski
 Has anyone come across a NTP client that uses native 64 Win 7 code? I've
 noticed all the 64 bit versions are running under WOW. I've use Meinberg
 now found another source out of Poland.

Windows has long had its own built-in NTP client. All you have to do
is use that. You can change the parameters as needed (I always point
the built-in client to my local NTP server and set the update
frequency to once every few minutes, given the poor accuracy of PC
clocks).

--
Anthony


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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread bg
Hi Anthony,

 Has anyone come across a NTP client that uses native 64 Win 7 code? I've
 noticed all the 64 bit versions are running under WOW. I've use Meinberg
 now found another source out of Poland.

 Windows has long had its own built-in NTP client. All you have to do
 is use that. You can change the parameters as needed (I always point
 the built-in client to my local NTP server and set the update
 frequency to once every few minutes, given the poor accuracy of PC
 clocks).

 --
 Anthony

1) Does windows really implement NTP? I thought it was SNTP.

2) PC hardware running Linux/xBSD and the NTP reference implementation,
runs very well att polling rates of 1024 seconds or longer. (Keeping sub
1ms accuracy towards local S1-servers.)


--

Björn


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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread gary
Windows is SNTP. You can google w32time to get more info, but this is 
the gist of it:


This finally brings us to KB article 939322:

“Support boundary to configure the Windows Time service for high 
accuracy environments”


“We do not guarantee and we do not support the accuracy of the W32Time 
service between nodes on a network. The W32Time service is not a 
full-featured NTP solution that meets time-sensitive application needs. 
The W32Time service is primarily designed to do the following:

---

All the 32 bit code runs on WOW, which is why I wondered about native 
code. That is, maybe the program isn't as accurate under emulation.





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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread gary
I ran it long enough to see that it didn't crash, but since it loaded up 
in the X86 part of win 7 64 bit, I didn't see the point of running it. I 
can run Meinberg if I want a 32 bit NTP.



On 1/16/2012 11:43 PM, David J Taylor wrote:

Has anyone come across a NTP client that uses native 64 Win 7 code?
I've noticed all the 64 bit versions are running under WOW. I've use
Meinberg now found another source out of Poland.

http://sites.google.com/site/ntpserverspl/ntp-server-time-client-64


I was going to ask, Gary, have you used this software, have you seen any
difference between 32-bit and 64-bit operation on Windows? I would have
thought that you wouldn't see a lot of difference, but I could be wrong.

The lack of visible source files on that site is rather putting me off!

Cheers,
David


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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread David J Taylor

Windows has long had its own built-in NTP client. All you have to do
is use that. You can change the parameters as needed (I always point
the built-in client to my local NTP server and set the update
frequency to once every few minutes, given the poor accuracy of PC
clocks).

--
Anthony


Anthony,

The built-in client does not support NTP fully - for example, reference 
clocks and the management functions.  Tell me how accurate it is, for 
example.  It doesn't respond to a standard:


 ntpq -p

command - you need real NTP for that.  My advice is to forget the 
Microsoft built-in client.  Running updates more frequently than is 
necessary is not particularly server friendly.  Properly configured, read 
NTP can be within milliseconds on Windows, and within a couple of hundred 
microseconds if you have a PPS source.  Using interpolation, you can get 
far more precision out of a PC clock:


 http://www.lochan.org/2005/keith-cl/useful/win32time.html

Cheers,
David
--
SatSignal software - quality software written to your requirements
Web:  http://www.satsignal.eu
Email:  david-tay...@blueyonder.co.uk 



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Re: [time-nuts] 15 Seconds error...??

2012-01-17 Thread Mike S

On 1/17/2012 2:04 AM, gary wrote:

My description of the problem would have been a thousand times better if
I mentioned monotonicity.


UTC is monotonic. The problem is with people who assume that minutes 
always have 60 seconds. In UTC, they don't - they can have 59, 60, or 61 
seconds.




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Re: [time-nuts] 15 Seconds error...??

2012-01-17 Thread Attila Kinali
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 06:57:22 -0500
Mike S mi...@flatsurface.com wrote:

 On 1/17/2012 2:04 AM, gary wrote:
  My description of the problem would have been a thousand times better if
  I mentioned monotonicity.
 
 UTC is monotonic. The problem is with people who assume that minutes 
 always have 60 seconds. In UTC, they don't - they can have 59, 60, or 61 
 seconds.

Not 100% true. It depends on the representation of UTC.
If you represent it as a seconds counter (like unix time or similar),
then you can have seconds that are two seconds long and theoretically
even back steps.

In reality, you will have a monotonic increasing counter (but
not strictly monotonic!) and this is a problem. Hence POSIX introduced
strictly monotonic time source (but with an arbitrary starting point).

Be also aware that most computer systems or devices that need an
RTC are using a similar seconds counter. And all these systems
are affected by leapseconds if they are not defined to use an
offset value to calculate UTC.

Attila Kinali

-- 
The trouble with you, Shev, is you don't say anything until you've saved
up a whole truckload of damned heavy brick arguments and then you dump
them all out and never look at the bleeding body mangled beneath the heap
-- Tirin, The Dispossessed, U. Le Guin

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Re: [time-nuts] 15 Seconds error...??

2012-01-17 Thread Mike S

On 1/17/2012 7:14 AM, Attila Kinali wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 06:57:22 -0500
Mike Smi...@flatsurface.com  wrote:


On 1/17/2012 2:04 AM, gary wrote:

My description of the problem would have been a thousand times better if
I mentioned monotonicity.


UTC is monotonic. The problem is with people who assume that minutes
always have 60 seconds. In UTC, they don't - they can have 59, 60, or 61
seconds.


Not 100% true. It depends on the representation of UTC


You're 100% wrong. You argue as if there are options in how to represent 
UTC. There aren't. That's made clear by ITU-R TF.460-6, which defines 
UTC: A positive leap-second begins at 23h 59m 60s and ends at 0h 0m 0s 
of the first day of the following month. In the case of a negative 
leap-second, 23h 59m 58s will be followed one second later by 0h 0m 0s 
of the first day of the following month.


http://www.itu.int/dms_pubrec/itu-r/rec/tf/R-REC-TF.460-6-200202-I!!PDF-E.pdf



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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Anthony G. Atkielski
 1) Does windows really implement NTP? I thought it was SNTP.

Apparently, in current versions of Windows, it is a home-cooked
version of an NTP client. All I know is that my PC stays accurate
within a very small fraction of a second while synchronizing from my
NTP server (the UNIX machine sitting next to the Windows machine on my
LAN), and I'm not using anything other than the standard Windows
built-in client. About the only parameter I've adjusted has been the
synchronization interval: by default, it's set to a week, and I've set
it to seven minutes (synchronization costs nothing between two machines
on a LAN).

I used to use a payware synchronization client, but when I discovered
that the built-in client was just fine as long as the polling interval
was short enough, I stopped using the payware. The main problem with
the built-in client just seems to be that it waits so long between
synchronizations: days, in other words, whereas the average PC is off
by several seconds each day if not constantly corrected.

It's possible to improve the accuracy of system time enormously just
by shortening the interval to once or twice a day, depending on how
much accuracy you want or need.

 2) PC hardware running Linux/xBSD and the NTP reference
 implementation, runs very well att polling rates of 1024 seconds or
 longer. (Keeping sub 1ms accuracy towards local S1-servers.)

My BSD server keeps the master time for my (two-machine) LAN.
Windows is a client to the BSD machine, which in turn is is a client
to a couple of reliable time servers out on the Net. It all works
extremely well and the machines tend to stay synchronized to well
within perceptual accuracy, although I imagine they are probably out
of sync by some milliseconds (or perhaps not!).

I do occasionally see failed to synchronize on the Windows side when
I try to force a synchronization, but when allowed to synchronize on
its own, it's right on the mark.

--
Anthony


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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Anthony G. Atkielski
 The built-in client does not support NTP fully - for example, reference
 clocks and the management functions.  Tell me how accurate it is, for
 example.

It is accurate enough that I can't see or hear a difference between
the Windows machine and the BSD server to which it is synchronzed. All
I've done is set the Windows client to synchronize every seven
minutes, instead of every seven days, and I've pointed it to my
server, instead of the default server.

 My advice is to forget the Microsoft built-in client.

I don't have anything that requires accuracy better than I can
perceive, and the Microsoft client provides that, so there's no need
to install anything special.

 Running updates more frequently than is necessary is not particularly
 server friendly.

My NTP server has nothing better to do, so it's not a problem. I
wouldn't sync every seven minutes to an outside server.

 Properly configured, read NTP can be within milliseconds on Windows,
 and within a couple of hundred microseconds if you have a PPS source.

It seems to do very well with the built-in client. I imagine that
perceived accuracy is within 50 ms or so.

Of course, others can do as they wish, but why install something
special if the built-in client does well enough? I used to have
something special (can't remember which product it was), but when I
discovered that the regular client did just as well for my purposes, I
removed it.

Now, maybe a third-party client might work better if you update at
longer intervals, but in my case my NTP server is on the same table,
so there's no reason not to update at very frequent intervals. I'd be
surprised by any client that could keep the machine accurate for 7-day
intervals, though, given how crummy PC real-time clocks tend to be.

--
Anthony


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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread David J Taylor

Of course, others can do as they wish, but why install something
special if the built-in client does well enough? I used to have
something special (can't remember which product it was), but when I
discovered that the regular client did just as well for my purposes, I
removed it.

[]

--
Anthony


I answered your first question on my Web page here:

 http://www.satsignal.eu/ntp/setup.html#why

Should you become interested in precise time (look at the list name!), you 
may well remove the built-in client, and move to the Windows port or 
reference NTP.  If what you have works well enough for you (and I note 
your comments about your server and LAN setup), and you can manage and 
control it as well as you need, no need to change.


By the way, our application requires the time to be within a second or 
so - it's for determining aircraft position by multilateration.  The 
Windows port of reference what we recommend.


Cheers,
David
--
SatSignal software - quality software written to your requirements
Web:  http://www.satsignal.eu
Email:  david-tay...@blueyonder.co.uk 



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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread David
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 10:46:19 +0100, Anthony G. Atkielski
anth...@atkielski.com wrote:

 Has anyone come across a NTP client that uses native 64 Win 7 code? I've
 noticed all the 64 bit versions are running under WOW. I've use Meinberg
 now found another source out of Poland.

Windows has long had its own built-in NTP client. All you have to do
is use that. You can change the parameters as needed (I always point
the built-in client to my local NTP server and set the update
frequency to once every few minutes, given the poor accuracy of PC
clocks).

I have had problems with the build in Windows NTP client getting
confused or giving up and then neglecting to mention the problem so I
still use Tardis:

http://www.kaska.demon.co.uk/

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[time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread EWKehren
After eight weeks of monitoring to 1 E-12, I still se no aging. Waiting for 
 a change so I can do other tests. One thing I clearly se is a 4 Hz filter  
response changing the output by +- 3 E-11. It may be more, will have to 
find a  way to check it more accurately, because of limited response time. I 
for one  will fix that problem with a Morion MV 89 and a 100 Hz analog filter. 
New  Morion's are available for less than $ 30 the ones I bought seem new. 
That's  also where I got my 5680A
Have no contact with the seller.
Bert Kehren 
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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Chris Albertson
Can't you build the reference version 64 bit?Have you tried.

That said, I don't see why you'd need a 64-bit version.  NTP is never
going to use so much RAM that you need the wider address space.

On Mon, Jan 16, 2012 at 11:09 PM, gary li...@lazygranch.com wrote:
 Has anyone come across a NTP client that uses native 64 Win 7 code? I've
 noticed all the 64 bit versions are running under WOW. I've use Meinberg now
 found another source out of Poland.
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread George Dubovsky
Bert,

Since you have been running your unit for a long time, what temperature are
you holding your 5680 to? I suppose more to the point, I attached my unit
to a 1/2 think aluminum plate slightly larger than the 5680 footprint, and
that in turn is attached to a painted surface of a cabinet (no effort to
achieve max temp transfer there). The top (hidden mounting screw) of my
unit stabilizes at 140 F. It locks up just fine, but sometimes, after
several hours, it will unlock and fail to re-lock. I was wondering if I
need to drop the temperature.

geo

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 11:13 AM, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:

 After eight weeks of monitoring to 1 E-12, I still se no aging. Waiting for
  a change so I can do other tests. One thing I clearly se is a 4 Hz filter
 response changing the output by +- 3 E-11. It may be more, will have to
 find a  way to check it more accurately, because of limited response time.
 I
 for one  will fix that problem with a Morion MV 89 and a 100 Hz analog
 filter.
 New  Morion's are available for less than $ 30 the ones I bought seem new.
 That's  also where I got my 5680A
 Have no contact with the seller.
 Bert Kehren
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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread EWKehren
I am using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month since I measured  
it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.
Bert Kehren
 
 
In a message dated 1/17/2012 11:30:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
n4ua...@gmail.com writes:

Bert,

Since you have been running your unit for a long time,  what temperature are
you holding your 5680 to? I suppose more to the point,  I attached my unit
to a 1/2 think aluminum plate slightly larger than the  5680 footprint, and
that in turn is attached to a painted surface of a  cabinet (no effort to
achieve max temp transfer there). The top (hidden  mounting screw) of my
unit stabilizes at 140 F. It locks up just fine, but  sometimes, after
several hours, it will unlock and fail to re-lock. I was  wondering if I
need to drop the temperature.

geo

On Tue, Jan  17, 2012 at 11:13 AM, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:

 After eight  weeks of monitoring to 1 E-12, I still se no aging. Waiting 
for
   a change so I can do other tests. One thing I clearly se is a 4 Hz  
filter
 response changing the output by +- 3 E-11. It may be more, will  have to
 find a  way to check it more accurately, because of  limited response 
time.
 I
 for one  will fix that problem  with a Morion MV 89 and a 100 Hz analog
 filter.
 New   Morion's are available for less than $ 30 the ones I bought seem 
new.
  That's  also where I got my 5680A
 Have no contact with the  seller.
 Bert Kehren
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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread George Dubovsky
OK, I remember the fan controller discussion; don't know why I didn't find
it just now when I was searching this topic. Thank you very much, Bert.

geo

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 11:38 AM, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:

 I am using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month since I measured
 it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.
 Bert Kehren


 In a message dated 1/17/2012 11:30:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
 n4ua...@gmail.com writes:

 Bert,

 Since you have been running your unit for a long time,  what temperature
 are
 you holding your 5680 to? I suppose more to the point,  I attached my unit
 to a 1/2 think aluminum plate slightly larger than the  5680 footprint,
 and
 that in turn is attached to a painted surface of a  cabinet (no effort to
 achieve max temp transfer there). The top (hidden  mounting screw) of my
 unit stabilizes at 140 F. It locks up just fine, but  sometimes, after
 several hours, it will unlock and fail to re-lock. I was  wondering if I
 need to drop the temperature.

 geo

 On Tue, Jan  17, 2012 at 11:13 AM, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:

  After eight  weeks of monitoring to 1 E-12, I still se no aging. Waiting
 for
a change so I can do other tests. One thing I clearly se is a 4 Hz
 filter
  response changing the output by +- 3 E-11. It may be more, will  have to
  find a  way to check it more accurately, because of  limited response
 time.
  I
  for one  will fix that problem  with a Morion MV 89 and a 100 Hz analog
  filter.
  New   Morion's are available for less than $ 30 the ones I bought seem
 new.
   That's  also where I got my 5680A
  Have no contact with the  seller.
  Bert Kehren
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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread EWKehren
There is already to much clutter on the list if you want more info contact  
me off list.
Bert Kehren
 
 
In a message dated 1/17/2012 11:42:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
n4ua...@gmail.com writes:

OK, I  remember the fan controller discussion; don't know why I didn't find
it  just now when I was searching this topic. Thank you very much,  Bert.

geo

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 11:38 AM,  ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:

 I am using a fan that holds it  within .1 C Its been month since I 
measured
 it but I did report it  here and I think it is 42.7C.
 Bert Kehren


 In a  message dated 1/17/2012 11:30:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
  n4ua...@gmail.com writes:

 Bert,

 Since you have  been running your unit for a long time,  what temperature
  are
 you holding your 5680 to? I suppose more to the point,  I  attached my 
unit
 to a 1/2 think aluminum plate slightly larger than  the  5680 footprint,
 and
 that in turn is attached to a  painted surface of a  cabinet (no effort to
 achieve max temp  transfer there). The top (hidden  mounting screw) of my
 unit  stabilizes at 140 F. It locks up just fine, but  sometimes, after
  several hours, it will unlock and fail to re-lock. I was  wondering if  I
 need to drop the temperature.

 geo

 On  Tue, Jan  17, 2012 at 11:13 AM, ewkeh...@aol.com  wrote:

  After eight  weeks of monitoring to 1 E-12, I  still se no aging. 
Waiting
 for
a change so I  can do other tests. One thing I clearly se is a 4 Hz
 filter
   response changing the output by +- 3 E-11. It may be more, will   have 
to
  find a  way to check it more accurately, because  of  limited response
 time.
  I
  for  one  will fix that problem  with a Morion MV 89 and a 100 Hz  
analog
  filter.
  New   Morion's are  available for less than $ 30 the ones I bought seem
 new.
That's  also where I got my 5680A
  Have no contact  with the  seller.
  Bert Kehren
___
  time-nuts mailing  list  -- time-nuts@febo.com
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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread lists
I don't have any compilers on the windows box. 

In any event, the idea was to bypass WOW. It was never an address space issue. 
Hence the native request. 


-Original Message-
From: Chris Albertson albertson.ch...@gmail.com
Sender: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 08:17:51 
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

Can't you build the reference version 64 bit?Have you tried.

That said, I don't see why you'd need a 64-bit version.  NTP is never
going to use so much RAM that you need the wider address space.

On Mon, Jan 16, 2012 at 11:09 PM, gary li...@lazygranch.com wrote:
 Has anyone come across a NTP client that uses native 64 Win 7 code? I've
 noticed all the 64 bit versions are running under WOW. I've use Meinberg now
 found another source out of Poland.
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread Chris Albertson
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 8:38 AM,  ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:
 I am using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month since I measured
 it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.

0.1C is very good for just using a fan. What is the  fe5680
mounted to?  just the heat sink or is there a thick metal plate.
Also what are you using as a heat sensor.  Is the sensor press fit to
the heat sink or.I do remember reading about your temperature
controlled fan but not the 0.1C part.   I'd have guessed yo could only
do about 2.0C with a setup like yours.


Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread EWKehren
I am, as I reported previously using a SMD LM335 away from the fan and held 
 down with a screw and a small bracket and I get consistent .1 C. I do not  
think that I would get 1 E-12  over weeks when my lab has seen more than 5  
C temperature changes if my temperature readings are not correct.
Do not forget this was a quick and dirty setup, the final product will look 
 more professional.
Bert Kehren
 
 
In a message dated 1/17/2012 12:19:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
albertson.ch...@gmail.com writes:

On Tue,  Jan 17, 2012 at 8:38 AM,  ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:
 I am  using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month since I 
measured
  it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.

0.1C is very good  for just using a fan. What is the  fe5680
mounted  to?  just the heat sink or is there a thick metal plate.
Also what are  you using as a heat sensor.  Is the sensor press fit to
the heat sink  or.I do remember reading about your temperature
controlled  fan but not the 0.1C part.   I'd have guessed yo could only
do  about 2.0C with a setup like yours.


Chris Albertson
Redondo  Beach,  California

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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Orin Eman
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Chris Albertson
albertson.ch...@gmail.comwrote:

 Can't you build the reference version 64 bit?Have you tried.

 That said, I don't see why you'd need a 64-bit version.  NTP is never
 going to use so much RAM that you need the wider address space.



I don't either - for user mode code running on the x64 (aka amd64)
architecture anyway.  My experience is that 64bit cpu intensive code that
doesn't need the wider address space is slower than the equivalent 32bit
code.  This is especially true if the code does a lot of memory management
- and if you are using C++ and std and/or boost libraries, there is a lot
of memory management going on behind the scenes.  Plain C wouldn't be so
bad.  WOW on x64 has a thin shim layer to interface to OS calls, which may
be significant if you make a lot of OS calls, but again, I've not noticed
it when profiling my software.

If the CPU is other than x64 architecture, then 32bit code is emulated and
for sure, you want a 64bit native version.

If a kernel device driver is involved, then of course, there is no choice
but to use a 64bit version of the driver.  Still no need for 64bit user
mode code though.

Personally, I run 64bit 2008 Server at work and 32bit Windows 7 at home.
Other than having to develop 64bit versions and drivers, I wouldn't chose
to run 64bit Windows unless I had an application that really needed the
extra address space.

Orin.
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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread lists
The intel 64 bit CPUs used the AMD64 instruction set. 

Note there are more instructions in the 64bit architecture, so some programs 
are more efficient under a 64 bit OS. 
  
-Original Message-
From: Orin Eman orin.e...@gmail.com
Sender: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 09:45:26 
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Chris Albertson
albertson.ch...@gmail.comwrote:

 Can't you build the reference version 64 bit?Have you tried.

 That said, I don't see why you'd need a 64-bit version.  NTP is never
 going to use so much RAM that you need the wider address space.



I don't either - for user mode code running on the x64 (aka amd64)
architecture anyway.  My experience is that 64bit cpu intensive code that
doesn't need the wider address space is slower than the equivalent 32bit
code.  This is especially true if the code does a lot of memory management
- and if you are using C++ and std and/or boost libraries, there is a lot
of memory management going on behind the scenes.  Plain C wouldn't be so
bad.  WOW on x64 has a thin shim layer to interface to OS calls, which may
be significant if you make a lot of OS calls, but again, I've not noticed
it when profiling my software.

If the CPU is other than x64 architecture, then 32bit code is emulated and
for sure, you want a 64bit native version.

If a kernel device driver is involved, then of course, there is no choice
but to use a 64bit version of the driver.  Still no need for 64bit user
mode code though.

Personally, I run 64bit 2008 Server at work and 32bit Windows 7 at home.
Other than having to develop 64bit versions and drivers, I wouldn't chose
to run 64bit Windows unless I had an application that really needed the
extra address space.

Orin.
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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Chris Albertson
 Note there are more instructions in the 64bit architecture, so some programs 
 are more efficient under a 64 bit OS.

That can be true.  But NTP uses so little resources that that is very
little to be gained.  But if you do care about this the best and
simplest solution (maybe the only solution) is to build from the
source code. Anyone who distributes a ready-made executable is
going to have to assume LCD, or lowest common denominator and build
a binary that  works on all CPU types.


Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread WarrenS

to Chris
What I've seen is that holding 0.1 C AT the SENSOR is pretty easy,
(Lady Heather will hold the TBolt's sensor to 0.01 deg using just a fan),
AND if you blow a lot of air around, then keeping the air gradients inside a 
closed 'oven box' below 0.1 deg is also NO problem.


to Bert
Have you measure what the Temperature coeff is over normal room changes with 
and without the addition of the temp controller?

What is the best configuration to keep the fe5680 freq constant?
For the LPRO, what I found by experiment worked best for me is to place the 
unit upside down so the heat sink was on top.
If any air was blown on the non heat sink side, that would greatly effect 
the frequency stability in a bad way.


A way to get around the compromise of where the best place is to put the 
sensor, either close to the heat source or close to the device.
Best answer is BOTH. The way to get high end control and a much more stable 
control loop, is to use TWO temperature sensors.
Put one temperature sensor near the Heat source and a second one at the 
place you want to hold constant.
Then in effect 'AC couple' the heat source sensor, so that it does the 
course temperature control.
One way to do this is to set it up so that the heat source sensor is the 
feed-forward or D input for the main sensor PID control loop.
Another way to set it up is so that the device sensor's error slowly changes 
the temperature set-point of the heat source's temperature control loop.


ws

***

I am, as I reported previously using a SMD LM335 away from the fan and held
down with a screw and a small bracket and I get consistent .1 C. I do not
think that I would get 1 E-12  over weeks when my lab has seen more than
5C temperature changes if my temperature readings are not correct.
Do not forget this was a quick and dirty setup, the final product will look
more professional.
Bert Kehren


*
albertson.chris at gmail.com writes:

On Tue,  Jan 17, 2012 at 8:38 AM,  EWKehren at aol.com wrote:

I am  using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month since I
measured it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.



0.1C is very good  for just using a fan. What is the  fe5680
mounted  to?  just the heat sink or is there a thick metal plate.
Also what are  you using as a heat sensor.  Is the sensor press fit to
the heat sink  or.I do remember reading about your temperature
controlled  fan but not the 0.1C part.   I'd have guessed you could only
do  about 2.0C with a setup like yours.



Chris Albertson
Redondo  Beach,  California 



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Re: [time-nuts] NTP for 64 bit windows

2012-01-17 Thread Orin Eman
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 10:30 AM, li...@lazygranch.com wrote:

 The intel 64 bit CPUs used the AMD64 instruction set.



There are still some Itaniums around (which are not AMD64) which is why I
made an exclusion for non-x64 architecture.



 Note there are more instructions in the 64bit architecture, so some
 programs are more efficient under a 64 bit OS.



True.  You just have to compile for both and profile them to see which is
better for a given application.

Orin.
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[time-nuts] 5370A on ebay

2012-01-17 Thread Bob Bownes
if anyone is looking for a 5370, there is one on ebay that is currently
listed for $29+shipping...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Counter-/160714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf

No financial interest, but that's a lot less than I paid for mine! ;)
Probably worth it for the ocxo!

Bob
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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on ebay

2012-01-17 Thread Robert Darlington
I gotta remember the time-nuts list when I put stuff on ebay.  One mention
here and the price goes up and up and up and up to a point where I can't
afford it anymore.

-Bob

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 1:43 PM, Bob Bownes bow...@gmail.com wrote:

 if anyone is looking for a 5370, there is one on ebay that is currently
 listed for $29+shipping...


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Counter-/160714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf

 No financial interest, but that's a lot less than I paid for mine! ;)
 Probably worth it for the ocxo!

 Bob
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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on ebay

2012-01-17 Thread David
Oh great.  Now everybody knows.  :)

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:43:24 -0500, Bob Bownes bow...@gmail.com
wrote:

if anyone is looking for a 5370, there is one on ebay that is currently
listed for $29+shipping...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Counter-/160714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf

No financial interest, but that's a lot less than I paid for mine! ;)
Probably worth it for the ocxo!

Bob
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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update (temperature stabilization)

2012-01-17 Thread Bob Camp
Hi

Since they used a magnetic outer case I'd keep it in place. Rb's are
sensitive to magnetic field. Anything that attenuates external fields is
helping you out.

Bob

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of paul swed
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 4:02 PM
To: beale; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update (temperature stabilization)

Well done.
You have answered a couple of questions for me. The heat sink inside is
small so its easy to see why all sides of the case should be close in
temperature.
Like you in tinkering, I attached 4 reasonable size heat sinks with the
case off and noticed I could drop the internal heat sink to 115 degrees.
Granted everything cooks inside but it seems a bad way to run things.
Though the xtal does need the stability.
I think I may follow your lead and attach an external sink to dump extra
heat from the regulators. No fan just open air.
I hate fans. ;-)
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:44 PM, beale be...@bealecorner.com wrote:

 I tried a simple bang-bang controller (LM35 temp sensor+comparator+pass
 transistor to drive a small fan) with the LM35 taped to the center of a
 large finned heatsink. The FE-5680A+heatsink are sitting upside down, so
 heatsink fins point up. LM35 leads wired with 34 gauge wire, which is
taped
 along heatsink surface. The fan cycle time was about 20 seconds, and the
 peak variation measured at the LM35 was about 0.2 degrees. Now, of course
 what I am controlling is the top surface of the heatsink. What's the
 temperature variation inside? Well, another temperature sensor, a
 thermistor full bridge attached to the center top surface of the 5680A
 (which is underneath, in my setup) indicates that surface varies only 4
 millidegrees C in the short term (one fan cycle) due to the thermal mass
of
 the assembly. However, long term it drifts much more along with ambient,
 because I do not have good insulation around the body of the 5680A. I plan
 to put it in a well-insulated box with just the heatsink exposed, so
nearly
 all the heat transfer happens at the heatsink fin surface, which I am
 controlling. I am guessing I can manage 0.01 C stability inside the box
 that way.

 -John Beale

   ---Original Message---
   From: WarrenS warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com
   To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
 time-nuts@febo.com
   Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update
   Sent: 17 Jan '12 11:52
 
   to Chris
   What I've seen is that holding 0.1 C AT the SENSOR is pretty easy,
   (Lady Heather will hold the TBolt's sensor to 0.01 deg using just a
 fan),
   AND if you blow a lot of air around, then keeping the air gradients
 inside a
   closed 'oven box' below 0.1 deg is also NO problem.
 
   to Bert
   Have you measure what the Temperature coeff is over normal room changes
 with
   and without the addition of the temp controller?
   What is the best configuration to keep the fe5680 freq constant?
   For the LPRO, what I found by experiment worked best for me is to place
 the
   unit upside down so the heat sink was on top.
   If any air was blown on the non heat sink side, that would greatly
 effect
   the frequency stability in a bad way.
 
   A way to get around the compromise of where the best place is to put
the
   sensor, either close to the heat source or close to the device.
   Best answer is BOTH. The way to get high end control and a much more
 stable
   control loop, is to use TWO temperature sensors.
   Put one temperature sensor near the Heat source and a second one at the
   place you want to hold constant.
   Then in effect 'AC couple' the heat source sensor, so that it does the
   course temperature control.
   One way to do this is to set it up so that the heat source sensor is
the
   feed-forward or D input for the main sensor PID control loop.
   Another way to set it up is so that the device sensor's error slowly
 changes
   the temperature set-point of the heat source's temperature control
loop.
 
   ws
 
   ***
   I am, as I reported previously using a SMD LM335 away from the fan and
 held
down with a screw and a small bracket and I get consistent .1 C. I do
 not
   think that I would get 1 E-12  over weeks when my lab has seen more
 than
   5C temperature changes if my temperature readings are not correct.
   Do not forget this was a quick and dirty setup, the final product will
 look
more professional.
   Bert Kehren
 
   *
   albertson.chris at gmail.com writes:
 
   On Tue,  Jan 17, 2012 at 8:38 AM,  EWKehren at aol.com wrote:
I am  using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month since I
   measured it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.
 
   0.1C is very good  for just using a fan. What is the  fe5680
   mounted  to?  just the heat sink or is there a thick metal plate.
   Also what are  you using as a heat sensor.  Is the 

Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update

2012-01-17 Thread EWKehren
Warren if you look close I did put a thermal barrier on the bottom and have 
 a large heat sink on the top with by my standards a large fan. All this 
because  I wanted it up and running with in an hour. I realize the sides also 
radiate but  putting a sensor at center on the bottom I am within 0.1 C. I 
did this for  testing quick and dirty and frankly never expected the 
performance I se. So at  some point I will package it in such a way that I will 
have 
optimum temperature  control. Right now I have a four channel Wavetek 52A 
data logger but plan to  build an 8 channel logging device based on a 16F688 
PIC. From that data I will  be able to pick the best placement of the 
sensor. Keep in mind this work is  intended for a limited temperature range, 
this 
is not a commercial environment  where one solution has to fit all. That is 
why I work today every thing with  cooling. Breaking that fancy Dewar has 
turned into a blessing.
Bert Kehren. 
 
 
In a message dated 1/17/2012 2:52:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com writes:

to  Chris
What I've seen is that holding 0.1 C AT the SENSOR is pretty  easy,
(Lady Heather will hold the TBolt's sensor to 0.01 deg using just a  fan),
AND if you blow a lot of air around, then keeping the air gradients  inside 
a 
closed 'oven box' below 0.1 deg is also NO problem.

to  Bert
Have you measure what the Temperature coeff is over normal room  changes 
with 
and without the addition of the temp controller?
What is  the best configuration to keep the fe5680 freq constant?
For the LPRO, what  I found by experiment worked best for me is to place 
the 
unit upside down  so the heat sink was on top.
If any air was blown on the non heat sink  side, that would greatly effect 
the frequency stability in a bad  way.

A way to get around the compromise of where the best place is to  put the 
sensor, either close to the heat source or close to the  device.
Best answer is BOTH. The way to get high end control and a much  more 
stable 
control loop, is to use TWO temperature sensors.
Put one  temperature sensor near the Heat source and a second one at the 
place you  want to hold constant.
Then in effect 'AC couple' the heat source sensor,  so that it does the 
course temperature control.
One way to do this is  to set it up so that the heat source sensor is the 
feed-forward or D  input for the main sensor PID control loop.
Another way to set it up is so  that the device sensor's error slowly 
changes 
the temperature set-point of  the heat source's temperature control  loop.

ws

***
I am, as I reported previously  using a SMD LM335 away from the fan and 
held
 down with a screw and a  small bracket and I get consistent .1 C. I do not
think that I would  get 1 E-12  over weeks when my lab has seen more than
5C  temperature changes if my temperature readings are not correct.
Do not  forget this was a quick and dirty setup, the final product will 
look
  more professional.
Bert Kehren

*
albertson.chris  at gmail.com writes:

On Tue,  Jan 17, 2012 at 8:38 AM,   EWKehren at aol.com wrote:
 I am  using a fan that  holds it within .1 C Its been month since I
measured it but I  did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.

0.1C is very  good  for just using a fan. What is the   fe5680
mounted  to?  just the heat sink or is there a  thick metal plate.
Also what are  you using as a heat  sensor.  Is the sensor press fit to
the heat sink   or.I do remember reading about your  temperature
controlled  fan but not the 0.1C part.I'd have guessed you could only
do  about 2.0C with a setup  like yours.

Chris Albertson
Redondo   Beach,  California  


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[time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Paul F. Sehorne


I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is 
inspect the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What 
size is needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.


Thanks,
Paul

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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Chris Albertson
No need to buy a tool.  They drill out really easy but you can also
simply punch them out.  There are no nuts on the back.  The screws
bite directly into the fiberglass PCB. Mine were T-16 but many
people report they are hex not torx.   Maybe it depends on what kind
of screw they had around the day it was built.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 2:42 PM, Paul F. Sehorne p...@sehorne.org wrote:

 I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is inspect
 the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What size is
 needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.

 Thanks,
 Paul

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-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Peter Gottlieb
   Most likely they are 1/16 hex.


   On 01/17/12, Chris Albertsonalbertson.ch...@gmail.com wrote:

   No need to buy a tool. They drill out really easy but you can also
   simply punch them out. There are no nuts on the back. The screws
   bite directly into the fiberglass PCB. Mine were T-16 but many
   people report they are hex not torx. Maybe it depends on what kind
   of screw they had around the day it was built.
   On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 2:42 PM, Paul F. Sehorne [1]p...@sehorne.org
   wrote:
   
I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is
   inspect
the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What size
   is
needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.
   
Thanks,
Paul
   
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   --
   Chris Albertson
   Redondo Beach, California
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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on ebay

2012-01-17 Thread Peter Gottlieb
   Yup, I just took it off my watch list...


   On 01/17/12, Daviddavidwh...@gmail.com wrote:

   Oh great. Now everybody knows. :)
   On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:43:24 -0500, Bob Bownes [1]bow...@gmail.com
   wrote:
   if anyone is looking for a 5370, there is one on ebay that is
   currently
   listed for $29+shipping...
   
   [2]http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Co
   unter-/160714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf
   
   No financial interest, but that's a lot less than I paid for mine! ;)
   Probably worth it for the ocxo!
   
   Bob
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   1. mailto:bow...@gmail.com
   2. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Counter-/160714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf
   3. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
   4. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
   5. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
   6. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on eBay

2012-01-17 Thread Don Lewis
Just curious, pls

What would be a reasonable price to pay for one of these counters?

Thanks, ...-Don







-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Peter Gottlieb
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 5:21 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on ebay

   Yup, I just took it off my watch list...


   On 01/17/12, Daviddavidwh...@gmail.com wrote:

   Oh great. Now everybody knows. :)
   On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:43:24 -0500, Bob Bownes [1]bow...@gmail.com
   wrote:
   if anyone is looking for a 5370, there is one on ebay that is
   currently
   listed for $29+shipping...
   
   [2]http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Co
   unter-/160714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf
   
   No financial interest, but that's a lot less than I paid for mine! ;)
   Probably worth it for the ocxo!
   
   Bob
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References

   1. mailto:bow...@gmail.com
   2.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Agilent-5370A-Universal-Time-Interval-Counter-/16
0714650831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item256b56f4cf
   3. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
   4. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Paul F. Sehorne

Nope.  Looked at them with a jeweler's loupe.  They are Torx.

On 1/17/2012 5:13 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:

Most likely they are 1/16 hex.


On 01/17/12, Chris Albertsonalbertson.ch...@gmail.com  wrote:

No need to buy a tool. They drill out really easy but you can also
simply punch them out. There are no nuts on the back. The screws
bite directly into the fiberglass PCB. Mine were T-16 but many
people report they are hex not torx. Maybe it depends on what kind
of screw they had around the day it was built.
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 2:42 PM, Paul F. Sehorne[1]p...@sehorne.org
wrote:

  I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is
inspect
  the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What size
is
  needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.

  Thanks,
  Paul

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Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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[time-nuts] River monitor update

2012-01-17 Thread Rich and Marcia Putz
Hi all;

I had the opportunity to drive by the Elkharrt River monitor in Goshen IN and 
observed this upon getting out of my car, the diamond plate equipment shelter, 
the crossed yagis, and solar panel. There was a GPS antenna but it was not a 
timing antenna in the sense of how we nutters typically think of timing 
antennas. On the back side of the yagi mast was u-clamped a piece of angle iron 
with what appeared to be a magnetic vehicle roof top GPS antenna of a few years 
back. It had a cable tie with electrical tape around it, the whole thing looked 
like an after thought. I would imagine then that at least time-stamping is 
occuring or maybe queueing. I would think that the close proximity of the 
antennas and the third harmonic of the up-link frequency would fall close to 
the GPS band. Next chance I get I'll check the monitor in Elkhart to see if it 
set the same.

Regards;
Rich
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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on eBay

2012-01-17 Thread Chris Albertson
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:23 PM, Don Lewis dlewis6...@austin.rr.com wrote:
 Just curious, pls

 What would be a reasonable price to pay for one of these counters?

It seems to depend hugely on the risk you are willing to take.   This
most resent counter is listed as not functioning as intended, returns
not accepted but does show a mostly working display.   It might be
just fine and work OK.

Others are listed as being recently calibrated and come with 30 day warranty

I think $250 to $500 for a It may work, but no returns accepted
counter and a lot more for one with a warranty.

Other counters are cheaper.  the HP5328 is very affordable ($50 if you
can wait for a deal) but of course is not nearly as nice of a machine.


Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on eBay

2012-01-17 Thread Pete Lancashire
I think it depends on how long your willing to wait and a bit of luck.
I took the risk
and got two 5370B from and E seller. One as not working 'flashed
numbers' when turned on
for an offer of $175 and one that was dead for $100. I think shipping was around
$30 each. At that price was willing to take the risk.I was lucky the
dead one was set
for 220V and the other worked after reseating the boards and removing
the spider cocoons.

Before getting them I set an upper limit of $350 including shipping
for a known good one.

-pete

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:40 PM, Chris Albertson
albertson.ch...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:23 PM, Don Lewis dlewis6...@austin.rr.com wrote:
 Just curious, pls

 What would be a reasonable price to pay for one of these counters?

 It seems to depend hugely on the risk you are willing to take.   This
 most resent counter is listed as not functioning as intended, returns
 not accepted but does show a mostly working display.   It might be
 just fine and work OK.

 Others are listed as being recently calibrated and come with 30 day warranty

 I think $250 to $500 for a It may work, but no returns accepted
 counter and a lot more for one with a warranty.

 Other counters are cheaper.  the HP5328 is very affordable ($50 if you
 can wait for a deal) but of course is not nearly as nice of a machine.


 Chris Albertson
 Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R

I have a tool with a number of Allen wrenches.  The smallest
of the lot fits the screws that hold the oscillator to the board.

I found it easiest to insert the tool from the other side of the
board rather than unscrewing the usual way.  This way I
was able to insert the Allen wrench well into the screw yet
avoid interference with the oscillator box.

On 01/17/2012 03:24 PM, Paul F. Sehorne wrote:

Nope.  Looked at them with a jeweler's loupe.  They are Torx.

On 1/17/2012 5:13 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:

Most likely they are 1/16 hex.


On 01/17/12, Chris Albertsonalbertson.ch...@gmail.com  wrote:

No need to buy a tool. They drill out really easy but you can also
simply punch them out. There are no nuts on the back. The screws
bite directly into the fiberglass PCB. Mine were T-16 but many
people report they are hex not torx. Maybe it depends on what kind
of screw they had around the day it was built.
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 2:42 PM, Paul F. 
Sehorne[1]p...@sehorne.org

wrote:

  I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is
inspect
  the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What size
is
  needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.

  Thanks,
  Paul

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--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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2. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
3. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
4. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
5. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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--
Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R c...@omen.com   www.omen.com
Developer of Industrial ZMODEM(Tm) for Embedded Applications
  Omen Technology Inc  The High Reliability Software
10255 NW Old Cornelius Pass Portland OR 97231   503-614-0430


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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Brian, WA1ZMS
I used a T7 bit for mine.

-Brian, WA1ZMS

On Jan 17, 2012, at 6:24 PM, Paul F. Sehorne p...@sehorne.org wrote:

 Nope.  Looked at them with a jeweler's loupe.  They are Torx.
 
 On 1/17/2012 5:13 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
Most likely they are 1/16 hex.
 
 
On 01/17/12, Chris Albertsonalbertson.ch...@gmail.com  wrote:
 
No need to buy a tool. They drill out really easy but you can also
simply punch them out. There are no nuts on the back. The screws
bite directly into the fiberglass PCB. Mine were T-16 but many
people report they are hex not torx. Maybe it depends on what kind
of screw they had around the day it was built.
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 2:42 PM, Paul F. Sehorne[1]p...@sehorne.org
wrote:

  I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is
inspect
  the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What size
is
  needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.

  Thanks,
  Paul

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--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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 References
 
1. mailto:p...@sehorne.org
2. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
3. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
4. mailto:time-nuts@febo.com
5. https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on eBay

2012-01-17 Thread shalimr9
I bought two several years ago, one was advertised as working and the other as 
broken.
Turns out both had the same problem: the socket syndrome, common on these 
instruments. I paid $100 for each.

They would work intermittently. 

I have not seen one near that price recently.

I have since replaced all the sockets with gold plated, machined pin sockets 
and the problems are mostly gone.

Didier KO4BB

Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless thingy while I do other things...

-Original Message-
From: Chris Albertson albertson.ch...@gmail.com
Sender: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:40:12 
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5370A on eBay

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:23 PM, Don Lewis dlewis6...@austin.rr.com wrote:
 Just curious, pls

 What would be a reasonable price to pay for one of these counters?

It seems to depend hugely on the risk you are willing to take.   This
most resent counter is listed as not functioning as intended, returns
not accepted but does show a mostly working display.   It might be
just fine and work OK.

Others are listed as being recently calibrated and come with 30 day warranty

I think $250 to $500 for a It may work, but no returns accepted
counter and a lot more for one with a warranty.

Other counters are cheaper.  the HP5328 is very affordable ($50 if you
can wait for a deal) but of course is not nearly as nice of a machine.


Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update (temperature stabilization)

2012-01-17 Thread Don Latham
Electronic Goldmine has nickel-iron magnetic shielding sheet, 6x9
x.005 for 6 bucks p/n G18646 peel and stick at that.
Don

Bob Camp
 Hi

 Since they used a magnetic outer case I'd keep it in place. Rb's are
 sensitive to magnetic field. Anything that attenuates external fields is
 helping you out.

 Bob

 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
 Behalf Of paul swed
 Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 4:02 PM
 To: beale; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update (temperature stabilization)

 Well done.
 You have answered a couple of questions for me. The heat sink inside is
 small so its easy to see why all sides of the case should be close in
 temperature.
 Like you in tinkering, I attached 4 reasonable size heat sinks with the
 case off and noticed I could drop the internal heat sink to 115 degrees.
 Granted everything cooks inside but it seems a bad way to run things.
 Though the xtal does need the stability.
 I think I may follow your lead and attach an external sink to dump extra
 heat from the regulators. No fan just open air.
 I hate fans. ;-)
 Regards
 Paul
 WB8TSL

 On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:44 PM, beale be...@bealecorner.com wrote:

 I tried a simple bang-bang controller (LM35 temp
 sensor+comparator+pass
 transistor to drive a small fan) with the LM35 taped to the center of
 a
 large finned heatsink. The FE-5680A+heatsink are sitting upside down,
 so
 heatsink fins point up. LM35 leads wired with 34 gauge wire, which is
 taped
 along heatsink surface. The fan cycle time was about 20 seconds, and
 the
 peak variation measured at the LM35 was about 0.2 degrees. Now, of
 course
 what I am controlling is the top surface of the heatsink. What's the
 temperature variation inside? Well, another temperature sensor, a
 thermistor full bridge attached to the center top surface of the 5680A
 (which is underneath, in my setup) indicates that surface varies only
 4
 millidegrees C in the short term (one fan cycle) due to the thermal
 mass
 of
 the assembly. However, long term it drifts much more along with
 ambient,
 because I do not have good insulation around the body of the 5680A. I
 plan
 to put it in a well-insulated box with just the heatsink exposed, so
 nearly
 all the heat transfer happens at the heatsink fin surface, which I am
 controlling. I am guessing I can manage 0.01 C stability inside the
 box
 that way.

 -John Beale

   ---Original Message---
   From: WarrenS warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com
   To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
 time-nuts@febo.com
   Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5680A update
   Sent: 17 Jan '12 11:52
 
   to Chris
   What I've seen is that holding 0.1 C AT the SENSOR is pretty easy,
   (Lady Heather will hold the TBolt's sensor to 0.01 deg using just a
 fan),
   AND if you blow a lot of air around, then keeping the air gradients
 inside a
   closed 'oven box' below 0.1 deg is also NO problem.
 
   to Bert
   Have you measure what the Temperature coeff is over normal room
 changes
 with
   and without the addition of the temp controller?
   What is the best configuration to keep the fe5680 freq constant?
   For the LPRO, what I found by experiment worked best for me is to
 place
 the
   unit upside down so the heat sink was on top.
   If any air was blown on the non heat sink side, that would greatly
 effect
   the frequency stability in a bad way.
 
   A way to get around the compromise of where the best place is to
 put
 the
   sensor, either close to the heat source or close to the device.
   Best answer is BOTH. The way to get high end control and a much
 more
 stable
   control loop, is to use TWO temperature sensors.
   Put one temperature sensor near the Heat source and a second one at
 the
   place you want to hold constant.
   Then in effect 'AC couple' the heat source sensor, so that it does
 the
   course temperature control.
   One way to do this is to set it up so that the heat source sensor
 is
 the
   feed-forward or D input for the main sensor PID control loop.
   Another way to set it up is so that the device sensor's error
 slowly
 changes
   the temperature set-point of the heat source's temperature control
 loop.
 
   ws
 
   ***
   I am, as I reported previously using a SMD LM335 away from the fan
 and
 held
down with a screw and a small bracket and I get consistent .1 C.
 I do
 not
   think that I would get 1 E-12  over weeks when my lab has seen
 more
 than
   5C temperature changes if my temperature readings are not correct.
   Do not forget this was a quick and dirty setup, the final product
 will
 look
more professional.
   Bert Kehren
 
   *
   albertson.chris at gmail.com writes:
 
   On Tue,  Jan 17, 2012 at 8:38 AM,  EWKehren at aol.com wrote:
I am  using a fan that holds it within .1 C Its been month
 since I
   measured it but I did report it here and I think it is 42.7C.
 
   

Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Paul F. Sehorne

Great!  Thanks.  My T-8 was just a bit too big.

On 1/17/2012 6:31 PM, Brian, WA1ZMS wrote:

I used a T7 bit for mine.

-Brian, WA1ZMS



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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Paul F. Sehorne
I'll give that a try.  In the meantime, I'll try to come up with an Torx 
of the correct size.  Brian said T-7 fit his.


On 1/17/2012 6:07 PM, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R wrote:

I have a tool with a number of Allen wrenches.  The smallest
of the lot fits the screws that hold the oscillator to the board.

I found it easiest to insert the tool from the other side of the
board rather than unscrewing the usual way.  This way I
was able to insert the Allen wrench well into the screw yet
avoid interference with the oscillator box.


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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Chuck Harris

Home Depot sells a little HUSKY brand screwdriver tool that
has replaceable bits.  It has all the tiny torx sizes.

The correct tool has a black end cap, and costs about $6

-Chuck Harris

Paul F. Sehorne wrote:

I'll give that a try. In the meantime, I'll try to come up with an Torx of the
correct size. Brian said T-7 fit his.

On 1/17/2012 6:07 PM, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R wrote:

I have a tool with a number of Allen wrenches. The smallest
of the lot fits the screws that hold the oscillator to the board.

I found it easiest to insert the tool from the other side of the
board rather than unscrewing the usual way. This way I
was able to insert the Allen wrench well into the screw yet
avoid interference with the oscillator box.


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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread J. L. Trantham
Mine opened with a 1/16th inch Allen wrench.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Paul F. Sehorne
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 4:43 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??


I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is 
inspect the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What 
size is needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.

Thanks,
Paul

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[time-nuts] FE-5680A adjustment screw?

2012-01-17 Thread Robert Benward
Hi all,
Anyone know what the little adjustment hole is on the side of the FE-5680A?  Is 
this a frequency adjustment?  I tried adjusting it but nothing happened.  Was 
the adjustment range too small to see a change on a counter?

Also, I just got another Z3805A.  Although I had success adjusting the 
oscillator (EFC error) on the my first one, it developed a output stability 
problem soon thereafter.The oscillator needs a couple of good raps to get 
it to oscillate.  The new one will get me on line until I fix the first one.

Bob
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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Paul F. Sehorne

That I've got.  Will give it a try.  Thanks

On 1/17/2012 9:04 PM, J. L. Trantham wrote:

Mine opened with a 1/16th inch Allen wrench.

Joe


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Re: [time-nuts] filtering a 10Mhz frequency standard?

2012-01-17 Thread paul swed
Luciano
I just placed an order for some parts with an electronics distributor in
the US called digikey.
I happened to notice they carried the orange 10.7 Mhz IF transformers
42IF222-RC so I ordered 10 of them up to build up your filter. Should have
everything late next week.
Time to warm up the soldering iron and sniff some flux.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Wed, Dec 14, 2011 at 10:02 AM, paul swed paulsw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Boy thats nice and simple. Shame I juts placed a order for parts could
 have added a few 10.7 xformers to the order.


 On Wed, Dec 14, 2011 at 9:55 AM, Timeok tim...@timeok.it wrote:

 see also:
 http://www.timeok.it/files/10_mhz_bandpass_filter.pdf
 --
 Luciano P. S. Paramithiotti
 IZ5JHJ


 - Original Message 
 From: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 time-nuts@febo.com
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] filtering a 10Mhz frequency standard?
 Date: Dec 13, 2011 10:29 PM

  If you are going to buffer the output, why does the filter have to be
  passive? Did I miss something here? Today 10MHz is in the realm of
  active filters. [Hey, not that I made an active filter at 10MHz.]
 
  Sensitivity is a function of the denominator. The only advantage to a
  LPF over a BPF is the BPF has to be centered at 10MHz, while you could
  bump the corner of the LPF to a higher frequency so there is less
  sensitivity at 10MHz This presumes you are only getting rid of harmonics
  and not spurs.
 
  For lowest component sensitivity, leap frog designs are best. But in
  continuous time designs, they require many op amps per pole.
 
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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread J. L. Trantham
Sears/Craftsman sells a 12-pc. Micro-Tech Precision Screwdriver Set that has
come in handy for numerous projects and includes T6 through T9 Torx drivers.
Also, you could probably look on theBay for some sort of 'Cell Phone' or
iPod tool set that likely would include the smaller Torx drivers.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Paul F. Sehorne
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 5:25 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

Nope.  Looked at them with a jeweler's loupe.  They are Torx.

On 1/17/2012 5:13 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
 Most likely they are 1/16 hex.


 On 01/17/12, Chris Albertsonalbertson.ch...@gmail.com  wrote:

 No need to buy a tool. They drill out really easy but you can also
 simply punch them out. There are no nuts on the back. The screws
 bite directly into the fiberglass PCB. Mine were T-16 but many
 people report they are hex not torx. Maybe it depends on what kind
 of screw they had around the day it was built.
 On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 2:42 PM, Paul F. Sehorne[1]p...@sehorne.org
 wrote:
 
   I received my two FE-5680s today.  The first thing I want to do is
 inspect
   the insides.  The smallest Torx I have is a too-big T-8.  What size
 is
   needed?  I'll need to do an internet search for the correct size.
 
   Thanks,
   Paul
 
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 --
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 Redondo Beach, California
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Re: [time-nuts] FE-5680A what is the size of the Torx??

2012-01-17 Thread Paul F. Sehorne

Okay.  Thanks, Chuck

On 1/17/2012 8:35 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:

Home Depot sells a little HUSKY brand screwdriver tool that
has replaceable bits.  It has all the tiny torx sizes.

The correct tool has a black end cap, and costs about $6

-Chuck Harris



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