> I Couldn't pull the head off as I was worried about over heating in
> case the RED finish was as bad as the rest so i cut the shaft off and
> drilled out the Hosel Goodness knows what the hosel is made of but to
> cut a long and painful story short I I finished up with a hosel bored on
> the e skew.
Before answering your question, I must ask a
couple of my own:
1. Do you not yet have a shaft puller? If
you're going to be a clubmaker, a shaft puller is one of the fundamental tools
of the trade, whether it be a simple pry bar, a homemade device (there are plans
for one on John's site) or one of the excellent Kennedy pullers. There are
others. There's no reason to "fry" a paint job if you're applying heat carefully
and you're using a decent shaft puller/head pusher. Believe me, you'll save a
lot of time, frustration, and money by spending a couple hundred bucks on
equipment. Your current problem is a case in point.
2. Why bore the hosel at all? why not simply
use a 21/64 drill bit and remove only the shaft tip? There's no need to drill or
bore out a hosel unless you're going from taper to parallel.
So, regarding the X100 tipping, you may want to
take a look at one of the many online clubmaker sites, including True Temper's.
I've found that doing a little research to get answers usually helps to keep the
data more firmly ensconced in one's mind. Very simply, the effect of tip
trimming just about any shaft is to make it stiffer. How much? About a
quarter to a half flex per inch. That however varies with head weight and shaft
length.
As for shimming, well, you have a problem if
the hosel is bored at an angle that changes the loft, lie or face angle.
You don't mention which is the problem. However, assuming you bored the hosel to
the original specs, you can use any of a dozen or so shimming methods. There are
commercially available shims that could do the job but what I do often is this;
I have a large piece of fiberglass window screen. I cut a piece to hosel depth
and about 3" long. I wrap the screen around the tip and try it for size in the
hosel. When I find the correct size to fit, I add the ferrule and then cover the
prepped shaft tip with epoxy, add epoxy to the inside of the hosel, wrap the
screen around the tip, and then I add more epoxy to the screen. Then I insert
the tip with a turning/twisting motion - sort of "screw it in." I then trim off
whatever amount of screen slips about the hosel (there's always some,) and then
I shove the ferrule in place. I have never had a failure with this method, even
when installing a .335 shaft into a .400" hosel.
You can also use drywall joint tape, copper
wire wound around the shaft tip, grocery store twist ties, with or without the
paper still on, heavy weight monofilament fish line . . . just take a look
around your shop for something. The possibilities are endless.
I'm not trying to "lecture" you here. Most all
of us who've been at this for a while have done something equally dumb. I
strongly suggest you get a shaft puller (I'm assuming you don't have one.) John
Muir sells Kennedy's pullers which are among the best I've seen. If you decide
to buy a puller, regardless of the make, do not get a spring loaded one. If you
can't afford to buy one now, make one for about $20.00 using the plans on
Clubmaker-online.
Good luck.
TFlan
> To correct this I have had to slightly over bore the hosel What can i
> use to shim 180 degrees to make the shaft sit right.
>
> Also As this Guy wants The shaft as stiff as I can make it; what is the
> effect of trimming a TT D. Gold x100 all from the tip?
> Regards Jeremy
>
