Ok bud, then most of what I said you already knew. I have been there on those type of heads before, but not that often, thank goodness. Hey, if they got the bucks, charge appropriately and smile.
Al
At 10:10 AM 9/12/2003, you wrote:
Al Thanks for your advice
I regret to admit I am a PCS Class A Clubmaker of six years experiece!!
Yes in hindsight I should have used a "hotrod"
I delivered the finished article to the customer last night who appeared delighted with the whole monstrosity of a weapon ,inluding the arthuritic grip with SIX wraps under it. (I put the grip in th e oven to get it soft enough to put on )
To my horror he proudly told me he had bought one for his son and would like me to fit it with an extra stiff graphite!!!
Jeremy
irst, avoiding the problem:
As Tom said, you need some sort of pulling/pushing device. A simple pry bar, judicially used works fine. The finish should not be a problem unless you have a Ti or Al head. Then you just have to wet wrap the head. In any case, you should not have gotten to where you are.
A second method would have been to cut the shaft above the hosel ?? 6"-12". Drill out the center of the shaft and then use a "hot rod" to break the epoxy bond from within. Again, a shaft puller would be nice but not necessary in this case.
Drilling out the shaft could have been done safely if you had first started with a small bit and drilled out the center of the shaft and then progressed slowly to larger and larger bits till you finished. The key to this is to get the HAND drill and hosel close to parallel and then let the bit do the leading and not your hands. eg. the drill bit will follow the guide hole and you should just help it, don't force it.
Now the problem: Much depends on how much askew your drilling was. My guess is if you noticed it, it is probably bad. If you have a long hosel and a drill press, you may be able to straighten out the hole by over sizing it and then shimming it. Again, much will depend on how accurately you can align the drill bit and the hosel. Trying to selective shim parts of the hosel to align the shaft is probably too much of a task. If you have some way of aligning the new shaft with the hosel and holding them in place, you might as well shim it, dump lots of epoxy in there and hold the two pieces together till they dry. You sound like you may end up eating the head, though. FWIW.
Hope this helps a bit,
Al
Ps. I am not sure of your experience level, but those of us that have done this a bit, always recommend that everyone buy a good club making book from one of the major distributors. It will save a lot of questions, especially the unfortunate kind you just posed. We all have several in our shops.
At 12:27 PM 9/11/2003, you wrote:
> I Couldn't pull the head off as I was worried about over heating in
> case the RED finish was as bad as the rest so i cut the shaft off and
> drilled out the Hosel Goodness knows what the hosel is made of but to
> cut a long and painful story short I I finished up with a hosel bored on
> the e skew.
Before answering your question, I must ask a couple of my own:
1. Do you not yet have a shaft puller? If you're going to be a clubmaker, a shaft puller is one of the fundamental tools of the trade, whether it be a simple pry bar, a homemade device (there are plans for one on John's site) or one of the excellent Kennedy pullers. There are others. There's no reason to "fry" a paint job if you're applying heat carefully and you're using a decent shaft puller/head pusher. Believe me, you'll save a lot of time, frustration, and money by spending a couple hundred bucks on equipment. Your current problem is a case in point.
2. Why bore the hosel at all? why not simply use a 21/64 drill bit and remove only the shaft tip? There's no need to drill or bore out a hosel unless you're going from taper to parallel.
So, regarding the X100 tipping, you may want to take a look at one of the many online clubmaker sites, including True Temper's. I've found that doing a little research to get answers usually helps to keep the data more firmly ensconced in one's mind. Very simply, the effect of tip trimming just about any shaft is to make it stiffer. How much? About a quarter to a half flex per inch. That however varies with head weight and shaft length.
As for shimming, well, you have a problem if the hosel is bored at an angle that changes the loft, lie or face angle. You don't mention which is the problem. However, assuming you bored the hosel to the original specs, you can use any of a dozen or so shimming methods. There are commercially available shims that could do the job but what I do often is this; I have a large piece of fiberglass window screen. I cut a piece to hosel depth and about 3" long. I wrap the screen around the tip and try it for size in the hosel. When I find the correct size to fit, I add the ferrule and then cover the prepped shaft tip with epoxy, add epoxy to the inside of the hosel, wrap the screen around the tip, and then I add more epoxy to the screen. Then I insert the tip with a turning/twisting motion - sort of "screw it in." I then trim off whatever amount of screen slips about the hosel (there's always some,) and then I shove the ferrule in place. I have never had a failure with this method, even when installing a .335 shaft into a .400" hosel.
You can also use drywall joint tape, copper wire wound around the shaft tip, grocery store twist ties, with or without the paper still on, heavy weight monofilament fish line . . . just take a look around your shop for something. The possibilities are endless.
I'm not trying to "lecture" you here. Most all of us who've been at this for a while have done something equally dumb. I strongly suggest you get a shaft puller (I'm assuming you don't have one.) John Muir sells Kennedy's pullers which are among the best I've seen. If you decide to buy a puller, regardless of the make, do not get a spring loaded one. If you can't afford to buy one now, make one for about $20.00 using the plans on Clubmaker-online.
Good luck.
TFlan
> To correct this I have had to slightly over bore the hosel What can i
> use to shim 180 degrees to make the shaft sit right.
>
> Also As this Guy wants The shaft as stiff as I can make it; what is the
> effect of trimming a TT D. Gold x100 all from the tip?
> Regards Jeremy
>
