1) Yes I do have a a Kennedy shaft puller but I couldn't get the
shaft off as I was worried about applying too much heat I tried four
times with a heat gun and the head refused to budge I applied
so much pressure that the rubber shaft grip itself slipped
rather than the shaft in the grip. Nothing would move the head .I normally
use a micro torch but this head looked so crappy I didn't dare use it.
(I found out yesterday it was bought from Wall mart for $50 cdn
approx. $36.5 US)
2): OK so I decided to cut off the shaft and remove the tip left
in the hosel by drilling it out; I used two pilots before
getting to my nearest metric size to 21/64 Now this is where
I got into the final problem normally when carrying out this procedure
I use a hand held drill with apiece of masking tape wrapped around
the bit to give me depth indication usually the last piece of the
graphite tip (Which is a thin walled section after the pilot bits
have done their work) comes away easily NOT SO this tine so iI waggled
the drill ( hope you understand what waggled means)
usually this is ok as most hosels are much harder than the
graphite and epoxy residue NOT SO The hosel was made of such soft
material that the "waggling" caused me to cut into the hosel metal
at an angle this is what caused the problem requiring a shim to be
inserted on one side of the shaft to re-align it.
So I hope this will explain that I may be dumb,
but not quite as dumb as at firt sight .( tflan no offence taken)
The Lesson I have learned is don't touch this really crap stuff with
a bargepole ;even as a favour.
I hope this little escapade will be useful for others to avoid
my mistake.
Regards Jeremy
> I Couldn't pull the head off as I was worried about over heating in
> case the RED finish was as bad as the rest so i cut the shaft off and
> drilled out the Hosel Goodness knows what the hosel is made of but to
> cut a long and painful story short I I finished up with a hosel bored on
> the e skew. Before answering your question, I must ask a couple of my own: 1. Do you not yet have a shaft puller? If you're going to be a clubmaker, a shaft puller is one of the fundamental tools of the trade, whether it be a simple pry bar, a homemade device (there are plans for one on John's site) or one of the excellent Kennedy pullers. There are others. There's no reason to "fry" a paint job if you're applying heat carefully and you're using a decent shaft puller/head pusher. Believe me, you'll save a lot of time, frustration, and money by spending a couple hundred bucks on equipment. Your current problem is a case in point. 2. Why bore the hosel at all? why not simply use a 21/64 drill bit and remove only the shaft tip? There's no need to drill or bore out a hosel unless you're going from taper to parallel. So, regarding the X100 tipping, you may want to take a look at one of the many online clubmaker sites, including True Temper's. I've found that doing a little research to get answers usually helps to keep the data more firmly ensconced in one's mind. Very simply, the effect of tip trimming just about any shaft is to make it stiffer. How much? About a quarter to a half flex per inch. That however varies with head weight and shaft length. As for shimming, well, you have a problem if the hosel is bored at an angle that changes the loft, lie or face angle. You don't mention which is the problem. However, assuming you bored the hosel to the original specs, you can use any of a dozen or so shimming methods. There are commercially available shims that could do the job but what I do often is this; I have a large piece of fiberglass window screen. I cut a piece to hosel depth and about 3" long. I wrap the screen around the tip and try it for size in the hosel. When I find the correct size to fit, I add the ferrule and then cover the prepped shaft tip with epoxy, add epoxy to the inside of the hosel, wrap the screen around the tip, and then I add more epoxy to the screen. Then I insert the tip with a turning/twisting motion - sort of "screw it in." I then trim off whatever amount of screen slips about the hosel (there's always some,) and then I shove the ferrule in place. I have never had a failure with this method, even when installing a .335 shaft into a .400" hosel. You can also use drywall joint tape, copper wire wound around the shaft tip, grocery store twist ties, with or without the paper still on, heavy weight monofilament fish line . . . just take a look around your shop for something. The possibilities are endless. I'm not trying to "lecture" you here. Most all of us who've been at this for a while have done something equally dumb. I strongly suggest you get a shaft puller (I'm assuming you don't have one.) John Muir sells Kennedy's pullers which are among the best I've seen. If you decide to buy a puller, regardless of the make, do not get a spring loaded one. If you can't afford to buy one now, make one for about $20.00 using the plans on Clubmaker-online. Good luck. TFlan
> To correct this I have had to slightly over bore the hosel What can i
> use to shim 180 degrees to make the shaft sit right.
>
> Also As this Guy wants The shaft as stiff as I can make it; what is the
> effect of trimming a TT D. Gold x100 all from the tip?
> Regards Jeremy
>
