The person I'm reshafting this for wants a low-torque shaft but not very 'stiff'. Wishon has one that I think will work. I'm not going to insert it all the way. I'll check the frequency of the shaft I'm removing to get me a starting point. He likes them long too. This ones going to be 46" and he's played some drivers up to 48".
Tom ----- Original Message ---- From: Robert Devino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 12:11:42 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2 I did a lot of bore through heads when I was building at HotStix in Arizona. A regular shaft puller technique while heating both the hosel and the underside of the head works just fine. Did a good number of blind bores too and didn't have any problems. If you just drill out about 1 1/2 inches of the old shaft you number one don't have to redo the plug on the bottom of the head. and also you don't need to get a shaft especially designed for a bore through head. to have the kick point in the right spot you need to have a shaft that has the extra tip length to account for the depth of the bore through. That's why I always favored a blind bore technique. Titileist has those shafts made special for all their heads so they frequency correctly. Using a standard shaft will probably not work out the way you want it to if you don't blind bore. Sincerely, Robert Devino 14252 Delano St. Van Nuys, Ca. 91401 (818) 770-0475 ----- Original Message ---- From: Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, October 6, 2008 7:30:31 PM Subject: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2 Hosel looks like it is a separate piece than the head. Is there anything special I need to do to remove this shaft? Thanks, Tom Janson -- Shoptalk ** Sponsored by the new Aldila Voodoo. Learn more at http://aldilavoodoo.com/
