You might want to take a look at some of the Graman shafts.  They have some 
longer shafts available and a veriety of torque options.  The blind bore is the 
best way to go with a Titileist head.  Remeber the further you insert the shaft 
the lower your torque will be.  So If you find a tip stiff soft middle with a 
long tipping section with a torque that is a little bit higher than your 
looking for. It might just be the right ticket.  If you have a torque measuring 
system then you can test the torque at the point on the shaft where it would be 
coming out of the hosel. Usually about an inch to an inche and half from 
your final tip after cutting for frequency. 

Sincerely,
Robert Devino
14252 Delano St.
Van Nuys, Ca. 91401
(818) 770-0475

--- On Thu, 10/9/08, Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2
To: [email protected]
Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 6:00 AM






The person I'm reshafting this for wants a low-torque shaft but not very 
'stiff'.  Wishon has one that I think will work.  I'm not going to insert it 
all the way.  I'll check the frequency of the shaft I'm removing to get me a 
starting point.  He likes them long too.  This ones going to be 46" and he's 
played some drivers up to 48".
 
Tom



----- Original Message ----
From: Robert Devino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 12:11:42 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2


 I did a lot of bore through heads when I was building at HotStix in Arizona.  
A regular shaft puller technique while heating both the hosel and the underside 
of the head works just fine.  Did a good number of blind bores too and didn't 
have any problems.  If you just drill out about 1 1/2 inches of the old shaft 
you number one don't have to redo the plug on the bottom of the head. and also 
you don't need to get a shaft especially designed for a bore through head.  to 
have the kick point in the right spot you need to have a shaft that has the 
extra tip length to account for the depth of the bore through.  That's why I 
always favored a blind bore technique. Titileist has those shafts made special 
for all their heads so they frequency correctly.  Using a standard shaft will 
probably not work out the way you want it to if you don't blind bore.  


 Sincerely,
Robert Devino
14252 Delano St.
Van Nuys, Ca. 91401
(818) 770-0475 




----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, October 6, 2008 7:30:31 PM
Subject: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2

Hosel looks like it is a separate piece than the head.  Is there anything 
special I need to do to remove this shaft?

Thanks,

Tom Janson



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