you wrote: > Another possible trick: > Lay a length of silver wire along the gum line down low so as not to > actually contact the teeth, and roll up some Aluminum foil into a "wire" and > lay it likewise along the gum line on the other side. > What this does is to *make* a battery [creating a low voltage electrical > current] with silver ions headed towards the aluminum, hopefully "through" > the infected area...[no aluminum will come off the foil]
Don't you have to get above a certain voltage in order to get silver ions to come off the electrode? Is the electropotential between silver and aluminum high enough? Dan On Tue, Feb 24, 2009 at 6:36 AM, Ode Coyote <odecoy...@windstream.net> wrote: > > Most of the variables have to do with the conductivity of the electrode > electrolyte , the overall area of the electrodes and the distance between > them...so what the "machine" puts out is of secondary concern. > The PocketPuppy will not under any circumstances put out more than 1 > milliamp at any voltage [safety], nor will it put out more voltage than you > put in...but it takes at least 6 volts to run the logic chips. > A 6 volt lantern battery will do fine, but is really bulky. > > The simplest thing to do is power it with a single 9 volt battery put a > potentiometer in series with the output, say 10k ohms, dialed into full > resistance and connect that to one of your electrodes, the other connected > directly..then dial up the voltage till you feel some discomfort, then dial > it back till you don't. > If you think you need more voltage, add another battery. [They clip together > very conventiently] > More electrode area will reduce discomfort at a higher 'drawn' current and > voltage. > The LED on top will give you a visual of you how much current you are > "drawing" > > Using Iontophorosis on a very deep feral cat bite in my thumb joint...fangs > met in the middle of the joint...with silver wire electrodes and CS as the > electrolyte, I found that barely visible in a dark room was about right. [I > did test the actual current drawn, but don't recall what it was...it was a > "quick and dirty, just DO IT" emergency situation with sophistication not a > concern... "junk" soldered up fast and adjusted on the fly with "some" > experience from making test devices for Jason Eaton of > www.silvermedicine.org / list member a few years back ] > I could keep it pretty steady just by adding CS to the pads as they dried. > [ Bite healed perfectly BTW ] > A byproduct of Iontophorosis..the direct injection of ions through the skin > [ vs being the "goal" ] is electrification. > > For more precision, using a digital volt/ammeter [DVM] will work quite > well. They can be had very cheaply from www.harborfreight.com. > [ That meter itself might even work set on Ohms and using its' output to do > DC electrification and current draw can be calculated with the ohm readout] > Further adjustments can be made by whetting the contact pads more, or > less..and/or...using more, or less electrode area. > An electrode should be placed on opposite sides of the area to be treated. > Current draw can also be controlled by distance, so one electrode close to > the area being treated and moving the opposite one further away, will run > less current through the treated area. > I think that simply finding a "comfort zone" is sufficient. If you feel it, > back off some. > > To adjust max current, change the value of R2. The lower the value, the > higher the current. 100 Ohms puts out about 6 milliamps and that's about the > max so it won't get warm while running [but it can actually run pretty hot > and not hurt it at around 20 milliamps], so use a 100 Ohm resistor in series > with a 10K pot to get an adjustment range between .5 milliamps and 6 > milliamps and go to a 100K - 500k pot to get into the microamp ranges. > It takes only 6 milliamps across the heart to stop it..but it's not at all > likely that you can "draw" 6 mills at under a hundred or so volts. > > To adjust frequency, change the value of R3 and/or remove or replace any of > the 470 uF capacitors. The lower the value and/or the less capacitance, the > faster the frequency. It's set to about one polarity change every 3 > minutes. It should handle up to around 27 megahertz...maybe more but > probably not more than 40 mH unless the TTL switching transistors are > changed to faster ones. [I haven't actually tested max frequency, but the > switch rate of the inverter/timer chip is around 11 nanoseconds and the > transistors at around 27 nanoseconds..someone better at electronics than me > can figure that one out. ] > The 3 minute polarity shift rate should do fine to limit reddening and > itchiness of skin as prolonged DC tends to do, but you might want it faster > or want to use it as a "Tens" or Rife devise. > > To get straight DC, install a switch or a jumper across the 2 position "SW" > next to the power input socket. > > To get pulsed DC, clip one of the outside LED leads. > > Personally, I think that the DC "offsets" found in the Clark devise have no > actual function beyond giving you a break to "cool off", but are an artifact > of a rather cheap pulse width motor control type of circuit. > > For the person with the bad tooth. > What "I" would do [quick and dirty] is use one of the PocketPups electrode > loops wrapped around the line of teeth, [convenient *U* shape] connected to > one of the PocketPups output leads and the other placed under the jaw > wrapped in gauze soaked with CS..powered by one 9 volt battery. > > If possible, I'd have the long end of the electrode sticking out of my mouth > so as not to inject whatever plating metal ion that is on the alligator clip > into my blood stream, but..when in **that kind of pain**, a little of > "whatever" isn't the main concern. > > PS It wouldn't be good to make direct contact with mercury fillings. > > "Quick and Dirty"......FLASH!!! > > Another possible trick: > Lay a length of silver wire along the gum line down low so as not to > actually contact the teeth, and roll up some Aluminum foil into a "wire" and > lay it likewise along the gum line on the other side. > What this does is to *make* a battery [creating a low voltage electrical > current] with silver ions headed towards the aluminum, hopefully "through" > the infected area...[no aluminum will come off the foil] > > If you have mercury/silver fillings and bite some foil, you ARE aware of > the voltage...so...make it using the "right" materials and direct it to > where it *should* go. > > ode > > > At 10:11 AM 2/23/2009 -0600, you wrote: > >> Well, I have built a Godzilla (or 2 :-) but am interested in how I can use >> my new Pocket Puppy to do the same type of thing. So if you would put >> instructions here, for all of us, that would be great! >> >> Samala, >> Renee >> >> -------Original Message------- >> >> The "PocketPuppy" circuit board can be easily modified to give you from a >> few microamps to 6 milliamps, straight or pulsed DC or full square wave >> AC >> at a frequencies from a very slow 3 minutes per pulse to several >> megahertz. >> [Doesn't do offsets] >> >> ...tell me what you want. >> >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG. >> Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1967 - Release Date: 2/23/2009 > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1967 - Release > Date: 2/23/2009 > > > > -- > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. > > Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org > > To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com > > Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com > > The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... > > List maintainer: Mike Devour <mdev...@eskimo.com> > >
