Most of the variables have to do with the conductivity of the electrode
electrolyte , the overall area of the electrodes and the distance between
them...so what the "machine" puts out is of secondary concern.
The PocketPuppy will not under any circumstances put out more than 1
milliamp at any voltage [safety], nor will it put out more voltage than you
put in...but it takes at least 6 volts to run the logic chips.
A 6 volt lantern battery will do fine, but is really bulky.
The simplest thing to do is power it with a single 9 volt battery put a
potentiometer in series with the output, say 10k ohms, dialed into full
resistance and connect that to one of your electrodes, the other connected
directly..then dial up the voltage till you feel some discomfort, then dial
it back till you don't.
If you think you need more voltage, add another battery. [They clip
together very conventiently]
More electrode area will reduce discomfort at a higher 'drawn' current
and voltage.
The LED on top will give you a visual of you how much current you are
"drawing"
Using Iontophorosis on a very deep feral cat bite in my thumb
joint...fangs met in the middle of the joint...with silver wire electrodes
and CS as the electrolyte, I found that barely visible in a dark room was
about right. [I did test the actual current drawn, but don't recall what it
was...it was a "quick and dirty, just DO IT" emergency situation with
sophistication not a concern... "junk" soldered up fast and adjusted on the
fly with "some" experience from making test devices for Jason Eaton of
www.silvermedicine.org / list member a few years back ]
I could keep it pretty steady just by adding CS to the pads as they
dried. [ Bite healed perfectly BTW ]
A byproduct of Iontophorosis..the direct injection of ions through the
skin [ vs being the "goal" ] is electrification.
For more precision, using a digital volt/ammeter [DVM] will work quite
well. They can be had very cheaply from www.harborfreight.com.
[ That meter itself might even work set on Ohms and using its' output to do
DC electrification and current draw can be calculated with the ohm readout]
Further adjustments can be made by whetting the contact pads more, or
less..and/or...using more, or less electrode area.
An electrode should be placed on opposite sides of the area to be treated.
Current draw can also be controlled by distance, so one electrode close
to the area being treated and moving the opposite one further away, will
run less current through the treated area.
I think that simply finding a "comfort zone" is sufficient. If you feel
it, back off some.
To adjust max current, change the value of R2. The lower the value, the
higher the current. 100 Ohms puts out about 6 milliamps and that's about
the max so it won't get warm while running [but it can actually run pretty
hot and not hurt it at around 20 milliamps], so use a 100 Ohm resistor in
series with a 10K pot to get an adjustment range between .5 milliamps and 6
milliamps and go to a 100K - 500k pot to get into the microamp ranges.
It takes only 6 milliamps across the heart to stop it..but it's not at all
likely that you can "draw" 6 mills at under a hundred or so volts.
To adjust frequency, change the value of R3 and/or remove or replace any of
the 470 uF capacitors. The lower the value and/or the less capacitance,
the faster the frequency. It's set to about one polarity change every 3
minutes. It should handle up to around 27 megahertz...maybe more but
probably not more than 40 mH unless the TTL switching transistors are
changed to faster ones. [I haven't actually tested max frequency, but the
switch rate of the inverter/timer chip is around 11 nanoseconds and the
transistors at around 27 nanoseconds..someone better at electronics than me
can figure that one out. ]
The 3 minute polarity shift rate should do fine to limit reddening and
itchiness of skin as prolonged DC tends to do, but you might want it faster
or want to use it as a "Tens" or Rife devise.
To get straight DC, install a switch or a jumper across the 2 position "SW"
next to the power input socket.
To get pulsed DC, clip one of the outside LED leads.
Personally, I think that the DC "offsets" found in the Clark devise have no
actual function beyond giving you a break to "cool off", but are an
artifact of a rather cheap pulse width motor control type of circuit.
For the person with the bad tooth.
What "I" would do [quick and dirty] is use one of the PocketPups
electrode loops wrapped around the line of teeth, [convenient *U* shape]
connected to one of the PocketPups output leads and the other placed under
the jaw wrapped in gauze soaked with CS..powered by one 9 volt battery.
If possible, I'd have the long end of the electrode sticking out of my
mouth so as not to inject whatever plating metal ion that is on the
alligator clip into my blood stream, but..when in **that kind of pain**, a
little of "whatever" isn't the main concern.
PS It wouldn't be good to make direct contact with mercury fillings.
"Quick and Dirty"......FLASH!!!
Another possible trick:
Lay a length of silver wire along the gum line down low so as not to
actually contact the teeth, and roll up some Aluminum foil into a "wire"
and lay it likewise along the gum line on the other side.
What this does is to *make* a battery [creating a low voltage electrical
current] with silver ions headed towards the aluminum, hopefully "through"
the infected area...[no aluminum will come off the foil]
If you have mercury/silver fillings and bite some foil, you ARE aware of
the voltage...so...make it using the "right" materials and direct it to
where it *should* go.
ode
At 10:11 AM 2/23/2009 -0600, you wrote:
Well, I have built a Godzilla (or 2 :-) but am interested in how I can use
my new Pocket Puppy to do the same type of thing. So if you would put
instructions here, for all of us, that would be great!
Samala,
Renee
-------Original Message-------
The "PocketPuppy" circuit board can be easily modified to give you from a
few microamps to 6 milliamps, straight or pulsed DC or full square wave AC
at a frequencies from a very slow 3 minutes per pulse to several megahertz.
[Doesn't do offsets]
...tell me what you want.
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1967 - Release Date: 2/23/2009
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1967 - Release Date: 2/23/2009
--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
List maintainer: Mike Devour <mdev...@eskimo.com>
