Simon writes:
> 1. I am still having trouble fully understanding the Tyndall effect. 

You seem to understand it's basic use as far as CS is concerned. You 
used it to confirm there was still *something* in the water after 
leaving some CS in the sun for a while! <smile>

For our purposes, the Tyndall effect is just the scattering and 
reflection of a beam of light from small particles and/or droplets that 
cause you to be able to see the beam's path visualized. Examples: dust 
and water droplets in the air allowing you to see "rays" of sun coming 
through the clouds; a flashlight beam in a smoky room; your laser 
pointer's beam in a glass of CS...

Exactly how it applies to your CS depends on the process you're using 
to make it and the kind of CS you're attempting to make.

A lot of us nowadays are using some sort of current limiting and/or 
large surface area electrodes to keep the current density in the low 
microamps per square centimeter range, in hopes of producing a 
relatively high proportion of ions versus particles, and keeping the 
particles we do get as small as possible.

In this kind of system you'd expect the Tyndall effect to be very weak, 
needing a dim room to even see it. The product would tend to be 
colorless as well, both because of the low concentration of particles 
and because the size of particles produced would absorb only those 
frequencies of light toward the UV end of the spectrum, and thus 
continue to reflect or scatter all the visible wavelengths.

If you kept going long enough for the particles to start agglomerating 
and growing bigger you'd eventually see a straw, yellow, golden, or 
even reddish brown color, the intensity depending mostly on the density 
of particles and the color on their size. It would have a stronger and 
stronger Tyndall effect, and even begin to appear "milky" in ambient 
light, as if you'd added a few drops of cream to a cup of tea -- still 
transparent, but with a slightly milky look in bright light.

Other ways of producing CS will do different things to the Tyndall 
effect.

Heating the water is suggested sometimes to speed things up. This will 
get you to the golden and darker brews more quickly, with a strong 
Tyndall and milky look.

Other systems use some kind of mechanical or thermal stirring to keep 
the particles from agglomerating. If the current is not otherwise  
controlled or limited, this moves you toward the clear to slightly 
colored product with mild to moderate Tyndall, depending on how long 
you run.

Finally, the primative "pinch of salt for starter" recipes produce very 
large particles quickly, the process ending within minutes while 
putting on a great show of bubbles and churning. The product is clear 
to milky with a strong Tyndall effect -- at least until the particles 
start to settle in a muddy deposit at the bottom of the bottle after a 
few weeks.

In the end, use Tyndall effect as a rough guide to the size and density 
of particles you're producing, bearing in mind that it does not reflect 
anything about the ionic portion of your product, pun intended.

Aside from all of this, sometimes you'll see what we call "sparklies" 
in the beam. These can be particles or flakes of silver that have grown 
big enough to be seen due to some irregularity of the process, or other 
contaminants like dust, lint, dandruff, or whatever. 

A few sparklies isn't the kiss of death, but more of a reminder to keep 
things clean and use a covered container -- and not to push your 
process so hard. Low ppm is just fine. You simply have to use more for 
the same effect.

Some of the stranger experiments people have run can produce a lot of 
sparklies, however, such as putting Hydrogen Peroxide in *before* the 
beginning of production. That, I'm told, produces something like the 
stuff they use in metal flake paint! So don't do it, I guess.

Hope that helps.

Be well,

Mike D.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[[email protected]                        ]
[Speaking only for myself...               ]


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